Your videos have helped me tremendously. I re skinned my whaler transom, all the original thru-hull and bolt holes got covered by the glas and filler, any suggestions for drilling thru the new skin and hitting the existing holes dead on? Tried dremmel but i ended up boring into the wood and elongated my first try. Thanks again.
@@jasonsmith7809 I marked my holes but if you’re also planning to repower, shops have a mounting template and can do it for you? Or ask to borrow it? The drain tube is off center and will be the most challenging to get straight. Maybe try a small Pilot hole first?
Any Whaler Dealer-service department should have it. Check Twin Cities Marine they’re considered one of the best when it comes to parts for old Whalers.
I can't remember where in this video series you mentioned finding your Yamaha 70 and that it was like 25 hrs, so I'll just ask my question here: How do you know as a buyer what the "hours" are that the seller is quoting for the engine? With modern engines is there a hobbs or hour meter in the engine that records this, or is it an honor system that the hours are being accurately quoted when someone is selling?
This motor is a 2014, and when I met with the seller he demonstrated it on a engine stand, plugged in a Yamaha gauge. It showed 140hrs (if my memory is correct?). I know it had very Very low hours and a new lower unit. My original plan was to buy a brand new engine get the factory warranty etc but this one popped up on marketplace for $5k and I couldn’t pass it up. *When looking at a used motor, *Always remove the cowling and look at the components, head bolts especially. Look at the paint, original? Have they (bolts) been removed tampered? Etc. You want to make sure everything still looks factory (wrench marks will indicate someone has been in there) and that could mean problems. You can always have a tech look over a used motor or get a Yamaha gauge $$$ and plug it into the harness. You can see in the Performance video I plug in the Garmin to get engine data (doesn’t show engine hours but does show rpm’s etc). I think the Yamaha gauge can pull hours out of that plug-port. They’re great motors as are pretty much all the 4-strokes. Hope this helps.
Thanks much for the feedback. The last time I bought an outboard was 25 years ago, when I was doing a '66 Boston Whaler 13 renovation to introduce my boys to boating. The tech has changed so much. 'Just starting on a '77 Supersport 15 renovation to repeat with grandkids and your series has been really helpful. @@spinfish1434
You guys should try and drill into the boat as little as you can cuz if the boat is used a lot water will get into the foam on the inside and make the boat really heavy
I agree totally. This hull is fairly light for its age but it does have a little water in it as most if not all Old Whalers do. The deck is solid, there are no soft areas or delamination anywhere.
Where did you get the Stainless plates for the interior backing of the outboard engine bolts through the transom? And why not use one of two? Not knocking, looking to do the same.
They came from Martin Marine Design, my plan was to use both however I ran into a problem with the lower plate. To fit it properly on the lower transom I would've had to grind the plate a bit because the lower mounting surface had a slight curve. I may still mount it later.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Beautiful work! You have one hell of a great buddy!
Known him for 40+ years.
Sending my support for you. New friend here.million smile
Thank You!
Your videos have helped me tremendously. I re skinned my whaler transom, all the original thru-hull and bolt holes got covered by the glas and filler, any suggestions for drilling thru the new skin and hitting the existing holes dead on? Tried dremmel but i ended up boring into the wood and elongated my first try. Thanks again.
@@jasonsmith7809 I marked my holes but if you’re also planning to repower, shops have a mounting template and can do it for you? Or ask to borrow it? The drain tube is off center and will be the most challenging to get straight. Maybe try a small Pilot hole first?
Thanks man!
Great find on the F70. Looks pretty mint
I got lucky, got to move fast when deals get posted!
@@spinfish1434 absolutely. This market is crazy. I got lucky with finding a new 25 for my 13
I'm restoring a '76 currently. Your transom repair made me less nervous about doing mine. Where did you source your long drain tube?
Any Whaler Dealer-service department should have it. Check Twin Cities Marine they’re considered one of the best when it comes to parts for old Whalers.
@@spinfish1434 Thanks!
I can't remember where in this video series you mentioned finding your Yamaha 70 and that it was like 25 hrs, so I'll just ask my question here: How do you know as a buyer what the "hours" are that the seller is quoting for the engine? With modern engines is there a hobbs or hour meter in the engine that records this, or is it an honor system that the hours are being accurately quoted when someone is selling?
This motor is a 2014, and when I met with the seller he demonstrated it on a engine stand, plugged in a Yamaha gauge. It showed 140hrs (if my memory is correct?). I know it had very Very low hours and a new lower unit. My original plan was to buy a brand new engine get the factory warranty etc but this one popped up on marketplace for $5k and I couldn’t pass it up. *When looking at a used motor, *Always remove the cowling and look at the components, head bolts especially. Look at the paint, original? Have they (bolts) been removed tampered? Etc. You want to make sure everything still looks factory (wrench marks will indicate someone has been in there) and that could mean problems. You can always have a tech look over a used motor or get a Yamaha gauge $$$ and plug it into the harness. You can see in the Performance video I plug in the Garmin to get engine data (doesn’t show engine hours but does show rpm’s etc). I think the Yamaha gauge can pull hours out of that plug-port. They’re great motors as are pretty much all the 4-strokes. Hope this helps.
Thanks much for the feedback. The last time I bought an outboard was 25 years ago, when I was doing a '66 Boston Whaler 13 renovation to introduce my boys to boating. The tech has changed so much. 'Just starting on a '77 Supersport 15 renovation to repeat with grandkids and your series has been really helpful. @@spinfish1434
@@scottfish6127 That’s Awesome! Make those memories, they’ll love it.
You guys should try and drill into the boat as little as you can cuz if the boat is used a lot water will get into the foam on the inside and make the boat really heavy
I agree totally. This hull is fairly light for its age but it does have a little water in it as most if not all Old Whalers do. The deck is solid, there are no soft areas or delamination anywhere.
When you mounted the motor, do you remember, did you use the existing top holes, then filled the lowers and drilled new ones? Thanks
That's exactly what we did.
@@spinfish1434 thanks!
Ok,💗💗💗
Where did you get the Stainless plates for the interior backing of the outboard engine bolts through the transom? And why not use one of two? Not knocking, looking to do the same.
They came from Martin Marine Design, my plan was to use both however I ran into a problem with the lower plate. To fit it properly on the lower transom I would've had to grind the plate a bit because the lower mounting surface had a slight curve. I may still mount it later.
@@spinfish1434 thanks so much!
i see you added new wood to the interior that seemed very light in color what type of wood did you use ?
It’s varnished Mahogany.
What year is this one? Mine's a 1985
84