This was built as a 91 octane pump gas street engine. 11 to 1 comp. It has a 4.125 bore 4.25 stroke. Headers used on dyno are for my 67 Mustang that the engine is in. Did change to a belt drive system and dry sump oil system after dyno pulls. Wasn't able to be there during dyno run. It is a Windsor engine, So it's the same as any other Ford Windsor for fitment.
It's an amazing thing to witness when you see a high-volume oil pump suck an oil pan up against the pickup tube and watch the oil pressure drop to zero. This happened on a build I did because I didn't clearance the oil pan but never thought it would have bent a steel oil pan the way it did.
I always wondered about why the importance of checking the clearance of the oil pan/pump pick up. In auto shop, I was taught it should just touch the pan! That was to avoid the chance of oil starvation. That was the 70’s and non-high performance.
I always braze a washer on the side of the pickup sticking down about 3/8" such that the pan cannot get sucked up to the pickup. Seen it happen too many times to chance it.
I think the dyno results are actually pretty good for Windsor style heads. But such an incredibly stout short block assembly deserves a superior pair of Ford Small Block heads. Aftermarket TFS or the Engine Masters Challenge winning CHI Cleveland heads would do an excellent job on top of 454 cubic inches. Since pistons for canted valve heads would be needed it would be a good time to bump up the compression to take full advantage of the efficient Cleveland combustion chamber design. Even a pair of 35 year old Ford Motorsport A3 Cleveland heads would be a better choice on this 454 than nearly all aftermarket Windsor heads. A good example on RUclips of the old A3’s is the DragBoss ‘69 Cougar posted by Tim Halstead. He uses a 48 year old OEM iron 2-bolt main block along with a stroker kit for 408 cubic inches and a solid roller cam that’s mild enough for the considerable amount of street duty it sees. The A3 heads are matched to a Scott Cook intake and a single 4-V Holley. This old school 408C paired with a C4 automatic in the 3400 pound Cougar runs a 9.62 quarter. The dyno video shows a healthy 752 horsepower ! The point to all of this is...why spend the big bucks on a quality 454 bottom end and leave so much power on the table by using limited potential Windsor heads ? There are a few good sources for quality alloy Cleveland heads and intakes available now in the same price range of the TFS Windsors used for this build. The 408C DragBoss makes 1.8 horsepower per cubic inch. At the same power ratio, a 454 would make an easy 817 horsepower in a very street friendly build. The Australian Clevelands posted by Fullboost are making 1000 horsepower on 98 octane. Thats with NO power adders. Now try that with a Windsor 😉. And the beat goes on....
@@juliennacer8871 … TFS makes high quality in-line valve Windsor and canted valve Cleveland heads. The builders chose Windsor style heads for this application.
Such an outstanding presentation and build. I appreciate how you gave up the details of each stage and the parts used and their particulars. Thank you for sharing and cheers from Motown!
Nice job, but why not go all the way and run Cleveland style heads; which Trick Flow does supply. Richard Holdener and Kaase have shown the Cleveland heads to be key to big power. Of course, 4 valve heads are the future
Ain't NOTHING more aggravating than some butthole standing around, asking stupid questions right in the middle of a torque sequence or dialing in a cam, etc. lol. My THANKS goes out to the gentleman actually building this engine. I appreciate his patience and endurance of the crowd and questions in the middle of his work space,, and for sharing his experience and wisdom and taking the time to explain the process. It was to my benefit. Thank you.
,,,,awesome build....632 ft. lbs. at 4900..... In my stang with a 3500 stall ,,,,when I unleash the trans brake ,,,power goes to 4.30 gears and screwed on 10.5 slicks........need to build a wheelie bar system......thanks.....
I assume there was more run time on that before he put the load to it. I would be interested in knowing what the oil temp, and water temp was. What oil these guys use, that type of thing. I know everyone has their opinions I would just like to see more engine shops who offer dyno videos to fill us in on some of the other important factors involved and why they do what they do.
Wow...This is nice. The only problem is the GM Cube Size. I love the 427 but have recently read an article about a Z351/429 Ninja made by Ford and raced in NHRA SS. I'm pretty sure it was close o 900HP+ to compete and it's already won quite a few outings. I do think though it was based more on the Nascar Head that Ford Racing approves! Either way I love these Windsor's.
Way back in the 90s, Pop Hot Rodding built and tested a couple "long" rod Ford engines with very impressive dyno results. Made the point clearly, longer rods were worth more than longer strokes. It was stated the optimum rod/stroke ratio was thought to be 2.2:1. This would indicate a 302 should have a 6.6 in. custom rod. One would have to use the 351 block to get close to this ideal ratio. I don't believe the magazine ever tried to build an optimized long rod engine and it was always a disappointment to me. So how about an optimum rod Boss 302 in the near future?
Long rod motors make more power if you are not octane limited, as the piston "hovers" longer in the highest pressure area of the combustion process. If you are octane limited this causes pre-ignition. For a street motor a short rod is better as it yanks the piston out of this critical high pressure area before pressure causes uncontrolled ignition. As Kaase said a rod 2 inches longer than the stroke.
Longs rods have helped me there is more dwell time also less thrust trying to shove the piston out of your cylinders, Long rods stay together better friends! I use 6.250 on my 410 stroker Ford of course! I like GM and Mopar too!
aftermarket aluminum heads(all of them need to be checked out) sometimes the run out on the valve guide is so bad you can pour carb cleaner down the ports and they leak, also I noticed the intake runners appeared to be larger then the ports on the cylinder head proper port matching can give you 50 more ponies.
The objection to "offshore" crankshafts is legitimate but like it or not price is a major factor for most people. The solution would be for American industry to become so efficient that the Chinese stuff is only slightly less expensive. I would certainly pay a few extra dollars for higher quality and American-made.
You've made a great point concerning price. Price is a major concern when building competitive engines. I would further point out that the Z351 block used in this build is economically out-of-reach of all but the most serious.
I hope you tore the heads down checked everything out and then "just bolted" them on.. wouldn't be good not to check the valve seats, spring pressures, assembly, flatness of face, etc.... yes.....or am I wrong? I have some trick flo's .. Wondering about that, I would think right out of the box is iffy assembly ...
Did it sound rich ..or was it just me? Considering the 358 ci Ford FR9 makes 850hp, this engine could really use a dry sump system ..cause there's a lot of power yet to be found in this motor.
You can convert your water pump drive pulley to a cog and belt 12vDC electric motor drive and an easily fabricated bracket, this way you have a constant efficient (water pump) RPM range regardless of engine speed.
I agree Steve Solo. A Callies or Moldex. Eagle crank is just cheap period. Ive seen brand new ones so far off you wonder how they even let it out the door.
Dam our set ups are so similar. I used a bg 950 lol. I used custom cnc machined 310cfm heads and special valves . I used a comp 294@50 with 112° sep . I used that exact distributor and dampener, i used the 8ct gold pan . I used a complete 4340 forged skatt 9000 kit with h beams b.d pistons . These big small blocks really kick some a$$ but cost a tone to build . I could have easily built 2 l.s's
I also used the super vic lol . We had to port match aswell lol, but tbh unless i wanted to do a complete custom job the super vic or air gap was my only choices with my msd ignition system.
Man i had to order custom length p.r for my 434 . Played hell with the rockers and stud gurds . Seemed once the gurdles were tight it changed the clearance on the rockers.
Just watched video again this evening. Is it possible you have the build sheet for this? I wrote down lots of things but not sure of valve springs used. Thanks much. Need to pull my built 460 BBF boat anchor out and put this baby in there asap.
I cringed a bit when he picked the carburetor up off of the bench and set it directly on the intake without looking at the bottom. I used to work in a dyno room and was instructed to never set a carb flat on the work bench. There is a chance of some stray grease or silicone sealer and a nut or washer sticking to the bottom . A little bit of precaution keeps from having a disastrous outcome. A big empty coffee can is a good cheap place to set the carb. If it has fuel in it and you're working on it the fuel goes into the can, plus no chance of anything sticking to the throttle plates sitting on an open can.
Axle Grind - maybe he keeps his work area way cleaner than you keep yours so he knew there was nothing on the bottom of the carburetor... So many fucking "experts" here making stupid comments.
Mark Godfrey has never sold an auto part. He has never worked in an automotive machine shop. He has never worked for a racing engine manufacturer. Mark Godfrey likes to take chances with other people's extremely valuable property. Mark Godfrey has never seen an engine dynamometer, except on RUclips, but likes to play an engine expert in the comment section.
+davis28905 In todays world you can stick your foot in your mouth big time. Jon Kaase wins the dyno challenge every year with.......is it a bowtie??? No...Don't think so. A blue oval. FORD.
I cook positive gear will shatter and you'll be done at the racetrack or stuck on the highway but since it's a Ford I guess it's okay if you use that I would stick to a bronze gear and you'll have better performance to composite gear can handle the rev it up and coming down it shatters
With a MONSTER engine,how do you choose the camshaft specs? More duration on the exhaust side? 100* centers? I had a hell of a time with my 460 Ford engine with the cam choices. The wrong camshaft was chosen. That car is gone,now. But it was an error in the camshaft. The STOCK cam was a better choice,by far for that engine. My bad. You and me should have known. I was young and dumb. Learn from your mistakes please people. Large displacement engines need a LOT of duration,not so much lift beyond .400 "
would love to have one of theose engines. I'm curious why you wouldn't make an expensive engine like that fuel injected. Wouldn't it be safer to have a computer monitoring your engine?
As so many will agree, a computer causes more grief than not. And depends on the category being raced wether you are even allowed to use fool injection. EFI is great on you road car, start better, use less fuel, better low end driveability etc. None of which is really required on a performance engine. Though IF it is streeter it may be well better off losing some top end power for driveability.
I love Chevrolet at heart, but I call myself a Muscle car guy. Meaning if I see a good deal on a Ford or a Mopar, I'm going for it... don't quite understand why use Chevy Motors on Ford application. For instance look at this beautiful build Ford motor, who wouldn't want this baby in their Ford project 💪💪💪
300000 she could have milled the heads were built the compression and he can get down closer to 16 or 17 thousand with a red kit to really be having something special
Did Ford make a 454 engine..? I have a 1986 F-250 I was told that it's got a.454 engine.. 60 something thousand miles.. How much do you think it's worth 🤔 ??? Can anyone please tell me...
Not telling you how to do your job but I have to ask when you want all you can get why would you work the motor so hard to get the numbers you want with a inline head. If you would have used a Yates C3 head you would have made more and worked the motor less. And there is no cost difference when the TFS requires all the special length push rods etc etc. VS the Yates heads.
No windage tray..? that type of cash in that motor and you skip that ?? I would remove that baffle in the pan and use a DDS windage tray. but thats me.
It's a beautiful setup. Yes, I would prefer a different crank with all of the rest of the top line parts here. But($).Why...? If you are going to race this motor (as mentioned) you are going to rev this to its limits. I am hoping you will hit 700! I think it will be a little over.I am not a huge fan of CNC porting. I think there is a few more hp there. What header size (id) did you use? Was the rotating assembly balanced, flexplate and dampener? I throw everything on the balancer. You'd be surprised! If I was going to build a full Ford small block build it would be darn close to this! I am guessing you are using around 10:5.1compression for street use. At 14:1.1 you'd be in the 800+hp arena. For all you would-be builders, I recommend a book called The" Mathematics of a Race Engine"
So you are going to be crYtical and then ask for specifics... Such a noob... This engine is ready for a turbo or supercharger with no bottom end work, what's your point...
Correct me if am wrong, but a Windsor is a small block normally 302 or 351, i would not have thought you could bore and stroke such an engine up to 454ci.
Most, if not all, "Aftermarket" Windsor blocks can be bored out to 4.125". Some people and vendors alike call this a "Big Bore" Windsor. The cubes are acquired with a 9.5" deck height, 4.25" stoke, and 6.250" rod which gives you 454" with a rod angle of 1.471. Smokey Yunic, Captain Perfect Rod Angle, rolls in his grave. Piston velocities way up, piston dwell relatively short. That aluminum block probably reduces the overall weight of a 351 WIndsor by 100lbs, but whose HP > 700HP. Very kewl stuff.
This was built as a 91 octane pump gas street engine. 11 to 1 comp. It has a 4.125 bore 4.25 stroke. Headers used on dyno are for my 67 Mustang that the engine is in. Did change to a belt drive system and dry sump oil system after dyno pulls. Wasn't able to be there during dyno run. It is a Windsor engine, So it's the same as any other Ford Windsor for fitment.
It's an amazing thing to witness when you see a high-volume oil pump suck an oil pan up against the pickup tube and watch the oil pressure drop to zero. This happened on a build I did because I didn't clearance the oil pan but never thought it would have bent a steel oil pan the way it did.
good info ,,,,think you may have fix a boss 351,,, In fact you have ,,Thanks
I always wondered about why the importance of checking the clearance of the oil pan/pump pick up. In auto shop, I was taught it should just touch the pan! That was to avoid the chance of oil starvation. That was the 70’s and non-high performance.
Wow, now that is some useful information!
I always braze a washer on the side of the pickup sticking down about 3/8" such that the pan cannot get sucked up to the pickup. Seen it happen too many times to chance it.
Stout powerhouse indeed!!! And that sound, gnarly.... Excellent build 👍🏻
I think the dyno results are actually pretty good for Windsor style heads. But such an incredibly stout short block assembly deserves a superior pair of Ford Small Block heads. Aftermarket TFS or the Engine Masters Challenge winning CHI Cleveland heads would do an excellent job on top of 454 cubic inches. Since pistons for canted valve heads would be needed it would be a good time to bump up the compression to take full advantage of the efficient Cleveland combustion chamber design.
Even a pair of 35 year old Ford Motorsport A3 Cleveland heads would be a better choice on this 454 than nearly all aftermarket Windsor heads. A good example on RUclips of the old A3’s is the DragBoss ‘69 Cougar posted by Tim Halstead. He uses a 48 year old OEM iron 2-bolt main block along with a stroker kit for 408 cubic inches and a solid roller cam that’s mild enough for the considerable amount of street duty it sees. The A3 heads are matched to a Scott Cook intake and a single 4-V Holley.
This old school 408C paired with a C4 automatic in the 3400 pound Cougar runs a 9.62 quarter. The dyno video shows a healthy 752 horsepower !
The point to all of this is...why spend the big bucks on a quality 454 bottom end and leave so much power on the table by using limited potential Windsor heads ? There are a few good sources for quality alloy Cleveland heads and intakes available now in the same price range of the TFS Windsors used for this build. The 408C DragBoss makes 1.8 horsepower per cubic inch. At the same power ratio, a 454 would make an easy 817 horsepower in a very street friendly build. The Australian Clevelands posted by Fullboost are making 1000 horsepower on 98 octane. Thats with NO power adders. Now try that with a Windsor 😉.
And the beat goes on....
It is good to know that there is equipment for that. but then it would not be a windsor. It is being on the ground of the dispute.
It be a boss then,not a windsor!
but they did use TFS heads.
@@juliennacer8871 … TFS makes high quality in-line valve Windsor and canted valve Cleveland heads. The builders chose Windsor style heads for this application.
Just goes to show the windsors are no slouch
Oh Hell Yes! Oh how I wish we had toy's like this in the late sixties and early seventies.
Imagine this with dual turbos and 40 pounds of boost and of course the engine built for that boost. Would be unreal.
What about 80lb
they build my dream engine!
Such an outstanding presentation and build. I appreciate how you gave up the details of each stage and the parts used and their particulars. Thank you for sharing and cheers from Motown!
Nice job, but why not go all the way and run Cleveland style heads; which Trick Flow does supply. Richard Holdener and Kaase have shown the Cleveland heads to be key to big power. Of course, 4 valve heads are the future
hey hi great post. just me saying I would put on the harmonic balancer then tighten the cover I have done that with out any leaks
Martin Schaffmeir very true!!!
Ain't NOTHING more aggravating than some butthole standing around, asking stupid questions right in the middle of a torque sequence or dialing in a cam, etc. lol. My THANKS goes out to the gentleman actually building this engine. I appreciate his patience and endurance of the crowd and questions in the middle of his work space,, and for sharing his experience and wisdom and taking the time to explain the process. It was to my benefit. Thank you.
Chuck Key tune them out, or tell them bluntly, “Don’t Make As Much As A Damn Peep Until I Say All Good! Got It!?” Good
lmao
Just think what it would of been with Kaase P-38 heads.......
+jim davidson Those heads put you in a different universe. Kaase is a Genius.
+jim davidson Those heads put you in a different universe. Kaase is a Genius.
jim davidson Those hi ports are no joke.... Some of the fastest boosted cars in the country run hi ports
I don't think the P-38s are high ports. They do work extremely well but very $$$!
If they went with p-38s they wouldnt be sucking up to the advertisers
What a beast!
950 CFM double-pumper! Oh,my god!
,,,,awesome build....632 ft. lbs. at 4900..... In my stang with a 3500 stall ,,,,when I unleash the trans brake ,,,power goes to 4.30 gears and screwed on 10.5 slicks........need to build a wheelie bar system......thanks.....
Good engines. Taller heads and larger crank and bearings. Ever try a 1968 462 cub. in. to work on. Lincolns were the only ones that had those.
I assume there was more run time on that before he put the load to it. I would be interested in knowing what the oil temp, and water temp was. What oil these guys use, that type of thing. I know everyone has their opinions I would just like to see more engine shops who offer dyno videos to fill us in on some of the other important factors involved and why they do what they do.
Hay idiot where is your ride
@@rickymatlock5588 In your dream woman
Wow...This is nice. The only problem is the GM Cube Size. I love the 427 but have recently read an article about a Z351/429 Ninja made by Ford and raced in NHRA SS. I'm pretty sure it was close o 900HP+ to compete and it's already won quite a few outings. I do think though it was based more on the Nascar Head that Ford Racing approves! Either way I love these Windsor's.
+Durham Porsche .....one,,,,may say bored 351 Windsor......lol....
ATI Is pretty much the best in the business when it comes the dampers!
Way back in the 90s, Pop Hot Rodding built and tested a couple "long" rod Ford engines with very impressive dyno results. Made the point clearly, longer rods were worth more than longer strokes. It was stated the optimum rod/stroke ratio was thought to be 2.2:1. This would indicate a 302 should have a 6.6 in. custom rod. One would have to use the 351 block to get close to this ideal ratio. I don't believe the magazine ever tried to build an optimized long rod engine and it was always a disappointment to me. So how about an optimum rod Boss 302 in the near future?
Long rod motors make more power if you are not octane limited, as the piston "hovers" longer in the highest pressure area of the combustion process. If you are octane limited this causes pre-ignition. For a street motor a short rod is better as it yanks the piston out of this critical high pressure area before pressure causes uncontrolled ignition. As Kaase said a rod 2 inches longer than the stroke.
I think the Elliots did that with the 351 and it worked well,
BS comment...
Longs rods have helped me there is more dwell time also less thrust trying to shove the piston out of your cylinders, Long rods stay together better friends! I use 6.250 on my 410 stroker Ford of course! I like GM and Mopar too!
Longer rods with poor cyllinder heads. However with free flowing heads more stroke wins even with short rods.
Torque specs are set based on the highest amount twist a fastener can withstand without damage .
aftermarket aluminum heads(all of them need to be checked out) sometimes the run out on the valve guide is so bad you can pour carb cleaner down the ports and they leak, also I noticed the intake runners appeared to be larger then the ports on the cylinder head proper port matching can give you 50 more ponies.
454 in your mustang the look on the faces of others priceless justsayin
The objection to "offshore" crankshafts is legitimate but like it or not price is a major factor for most people. The solution would be for American industry to become so efficient that the Chinese stuff is only slightly less expensive. I would certainly pay a few extra dollars for higher quality and American-made.
You've made a great point concerning price. Price is a major concern when building competitive engines. I would further point out that the Z351 block used in this build is economically out-of-reach of all but the most serious.
Very nice. Perfect for a Mach 1 or Cougar
I would have cut that excess gasket around the timing cover off . but that’s just me. Nice motor guys.
Beautiful beautiful job
Would love to see this redone with fuel injection and the Holley Hi-Ram intake.
Efi the only way to go justsayin
Beautiful piece. Well done
Bad ass I'm a Ford fan great job
Never ever use a torque wrench as a ratchet!!! Nice engine non the less👍🏽
I hope you tore the heads down checked everything out and then "just bolted" them on.. wouldn't be good not to check the valve seats, spring pressures, assembly, flatness of face, etc.... yes.....or am I wrong? I have some trick flo's
.. Wondering about that, I would think right out of the box is iffy assembly ...
Nice simple straightforward combination..
Did it sound rich ..or was it just me? Considering the 358 ci Ford FR9 makes 850hp, this engine could really use a dry sump system ..cause there's a lot of power yet to be found in this motor.
You can convert your water pump drive pulley to a cog and belt 12vDC electric motor drive and an easily fabricated bracket, this way you have a constant efficient (water pump) RPM range regardless of engine speed.
Very good result with some great parts.
I agree Steve Solo. A Callies or Moldex. Eagle crank is just cheap period. Ive seen brand new ones so far off you wonder how they even let it out the door.
Well that is what the builder does, make sure everything is clearanced, correct, and fits as should! I agree, Callies is the best!
Hot rod mag did an article on a 392 inch windsor that made 748 horse. I dont remember the torque.
I am reading that all LS engines use 10 head bolts like the small block Ford.
Dam our set ups are so similar. I used a bg 950 lol. I used custom cnc machined 310cfm heads and special valves . I used a comp 294@50 with 112° sep . I used that exact distributor and dampener, i used the 8ct gold pan . I used a complete 4340 forged skatt 9000 kit with h beams b.d pistons . These big small blocks really kick some a$$ but cost a tone to build . I could have easily built 2 l.s's
@port nut I believe he said 4340 implying a forged crank. Also pretty sure he's full of it not even spelling SCAT correctly.
I also used the super vic lol . We had to port match aswell lol, but tbh unless i wanted to do a complete custom job the super vic or air gap was my only choices with my msd ignition system.
Man i had to order custom length p.r for my 434 . Played hell with the rockers and stud gurds . Seemed once the gurdles were tight it changed the clearance on the rockers.
If so your rocker studs are not square
Great build very impressive & I'm a Chevy Guy
Just watched video again this evening. Is it possible you have the build sheet for this? I wrote down lots of things but not sure of valve springs used. Thanks much. Need to pull my built 460 BBF boat anchor out and put this baby in there asap.
I cringed a bit when he picked the carburetor up off of the bench and set it directly on the intake without looking at the bottom. I used to work in a dyno room and was instructed to never set a carb flat on the work bench. There is a chance of some stray grease or silicone sealer and a nut or washer sticking to the bottom . A little bit of precaution keeps from having a disastrous outcome. A big empty coffee can is a good cheap place to set the carb. If it has fuel in it and you're working on it the fuel goes into the can, plus no chance of anything sticking to the throttle plates sitting on an open can.
Axle Grind - maybe he keeps his work area way cleaner than you keep yours so he knew there was nothing on the bottom of the carburetor... So many fucking "experts" here making stupid comments.
Mark Godfrey has never sold an auto part. He has never worked in an automotive machine shop. He has never worked for a racing engine manufacturer. Mark Godfrey likes to take chances with other people's extremely valuable property. Mark Godfrey has never seen an engine dynamometer, except on RUclips, but likes to play an engine expert in the comment section.
Thats good advice
i loved my Victor R - race manifold single plane it was killer !
i love how a 454 sbf puts out a ridiculous more amount of hp then gm's 454 big block lol
+thomas H Stick the same amount of money you spent on this 454 SBF into a 454 BBC and the BBC will win all day.
+davis28905 In todays world you can stick your foot in your mouth big time. Jon Kaase wins the dyno challenge every year with.......is it a bowtie??? No...Don't think so. A blue oval. FORD.
+mike smith yeah but a cleveland...not windsor
Patrick. Kaase p38 heads fit Windsor not Cleveland. Cleveland style (canted) but made for Windsor
If Ford used this motor instead of a modular motor in the mustang, I would buy a mustang. The current coyote motor is no match for the GM LT1 motor.
Wrong way to index TDC. Should use the 'positive stop' method for absolute accuracy. You're welcome.
go play with your tinker toys
I cook positive gear will shatter and you'll be done at the racetrack or stuck on the highway but since it's a Ford I guess it's okay if you use that I would stick to a bronze gear and you'll have better performance to composite gear can handle the rev it up and coming down it shatters
With a MONSTER engine,how do you choose the camshaft specs?
More duration on the exhaust side? 100* centers?
I had a hell of a time with my 460 Ford engine with the cam choices.
The wrong camshaft was chosen. That car is gone,now. But it was an error in the camshaft. The STOCK cam was a better choice,by far for that engine. My bad. You and me should have known.
I was young and dumb.
Learn from your mistakes please people. Large displacement engines need a LOT of duration,not so much lift beyond .400 "
600 plus lift
Between 19:19 - 19:25. Engine didn't sound happy at all. ?? Kaase or CHI 3v heads would be awesome. TF hp good heads too. 2nd choice tho.
632 Torque!? Jesus that thing is a monster
Man this block went up 3k bucks since this video and not a thing has changed about it
Great video Ford power forever baby
What size cam did you put in that 454.
Thanks for letting
That Canadian sounds healthy
wish I had those heads in stead of the brodix on my stroker
Why do top fuel and funny car and pro stock and NASCAR oil use roller lifters with needles?
What is the static compression of this engine, and what is the advertised intake duration of the cam?
would love to have one of theose engines. I'm curious why you wouldn't make an expensive engine like that fuel injected. Wouldn't it be safer to have a computer monitoring your engine?
As so many will agree, a computer causes more grief than not. And depends on the category being raced wether you are even allowed to use fool injection.
EFI is great on you road car, start better, use less fuel, better low end driveability etc. None of which is really required on a performance engine.
Though IF it is streeter it may be well better off losing some top end power for driveability.
No copper coat on the head gaskets? I'm using cometic and they saying I should copper coat them.
Who says to copper coat cometic
What valve covers did you use? Did the stock 5.0-5.8l covers fit over the valve train or were they aftermarket?
I love Chevrolet at heart, but I call myself a Muscle car guy. Meaning if I see a good deal on a Ford or a Mopar, I'm going for it... don't quite understand why use Chevy Motors on Ford application. For instance look at this beautiful build Ford motor, who wouldn't want this baby in their Ford project 💪💪💪
What is the compression ratio? What type of fuel did you use?
What would it have cost you guys to weigh the total package. How much horse power per pound?
300000 she could have milled the heads were built the compression and he can get down closer to 16 or 17 thousand with a red kit to really be having something special
Dam that's a big stroke but sounds RADICAL
i personally would only use double pumpers. even if i had an 2-4 barral carb!
Did Ford make a 454 engine..?
I have a 1986 F-250
I was told that it's got a.454 engine..
60 something thousand miles..
How much do you think it's worth 🤔 ???
Can anyone please tell me...
100 in longer valve? Soaking solid lifters all day?
I need one of these.... How much.do they cost? Probably 40k + eh?
Not telling you how to do your job but I have to ask when you want all you can get why would you work the motor so hard to get the numbers you want with a inline head. If you would have used a Yates C3 head you would have made more and worked the motor less. And there is no cost difference when the TFS requires all the special length push rods etc etc. VS the Yates heads.
Good video, is that Steven Wright the comedian holding the camera though?
Windsor motor? Still Ford. Although I don't own one right now, it is a damn good engine, especiall the 5.0.
How hard would it be to put that motor in An ,05 Mustang GT?
I would have went with Brodix 15 degree head hunters . Flow over 400 at 800 lift and love nitrous
This all great and good-but how much did this engine cost?
the block alone is 4500 dollars
454 sounds Chevyish make it a 460 that sounds better!
You can put any fender badge you like...
no one engine sounds the same ford or chitylay
@ I would put it in a car with 351 Badges,
All these automotive magazines have a chevy fetish so this is how they deal with fords.
hell yeah
Would that be a custom crank then... Or what?
A LIFTER VALLEY PAN BAFFLE, would've been helpful.
CUT THE FLOAT BOWL TUBES 45 deg FACING OUTWARD
otherwise you'll have a hesitation during cornering.
HP HOLLEY BOOK.
F.G. Kaye i remember hearing the back in the seventies
No windage tray..? that type of cash in that motor and you skip that ?? I would remove that baffle in the pan and use a DDS windage tray. but thats me.
You mean DSS I got one love it
also a moroso accusump accumulator for pre oiling
Out of a 351 who would have thunk it lol nice job
Very cool video
Was that engine cold??? Please tell me it wasn't.
I'll take one please> lol Wish I had the money for it.
use a iron block and cut the price in half
Maybe I missed it. What was the compression ratio?
Article said 11.0 target
What did that set up cost you in parts?
What size intake and exhaust valves?
It's a beautiful setup. Yes, I would prefer a different crank with all of the rest of the top line
parts here. But($).Why...? If you are going to race this motor (as mentioned) you are going to rev this to its limits. I am hoping you will hit 700! I think it will be a little over.I am not a huge fan of CNC porting. I think there is a few more hp there. What header size (id) did you use? Was the rotating assembly balanced, flexplate and dampener? I throw everything on the balancer. You'd be surprised! If I was going to build a full Ford small block build it would be darn close to this! I am guessing you are using around 10:5.1compression for street use. At 14:1.1 you'd be in the 800+hp arena.
For all you would-be builders, I recommend a book called The" Mathematics of a Race Engine"
So you are going to be crYtical and then ask for specifics... Such a noob... This engine is ready for a turbo or supercharger with no bottom end work, what's your point...
I t has the wrong cam and compression ratio for a blower it was built for NA use on decent gas! and 730 is very decent!
Not quite sure if I'd do an install or display this unit in my living room?! My version of a Rembrandt on the wall. lol Call it HP decor. Ha!
RUclips keeps trying to stick me with their commercials but I found a way around most of them
does anyone know what the compression is on this beast
How much did this motor cost in parts? Anyone have an educated guess?
Would it fit in a 99 Crown Victoria ?
Would be a good Dodge eater
Correct me if am wrong, but a Windsor is a small block normally 302 or 351, i would not have thought you could bore and stroke such an engine up to 454ci.
Actually can be taken out to 460 without problems.😎
Most, if not all, "Aftermarket" Windsor blocks can be bored out to 4.125". Some people and vendors alike call this a "Big Bore" Windsor. The cubes are acquired with a 9.5" deck height, 4.25" stoke, and 6.250" rod which gives you 454" with a rod angle of 1.471. Smokey Yunic, Captain Perfect Rod Angle, rolls in his grave. Piston velocities way up, piston dwell relatively short. That aluminum block probably reduces the overall weight of a 351 WIndsor by 100lbs, but whose HP > 700HP. Very kewl stuff.
anyone know the compression ratio of this engine?
+04KBSVT With the camshaft combination It would have to be at least 12.5:1...probably more like 13 to 13.5:1.
+04KBSVT The Magazine article said their target compression ratio is 11:1.
11:1
with kasse c400 heads would make over 800hp.
Maybe I thinking 775
Ok when he stabbed dist it looks too be 180 off
What’s the cam specs?