Thanks for the video. Funny, I had the same problem with a straight Speedfit fitting connecting copper to barrier pipe leaking on the copper side. After cleaning up the pipe etc, checking that the barrier pipe had a strengthing insert etc it just wouldn't stop leaking. Couldn't see anything wrong with the rubber seal inside but didn't use a hacksaw to take it apart :) In the end just replaced it with, my preference, a straight Hep20. Problem solved.
@@dereton33 just doing repipping a toilet and bathroom that I’m turning into a walk in shower and putting it all under the floor, but while using the JG insert with the extra o rings could not get them to push in like they do on the video’s maybe it’s because a lot of the strength and more with the emphysema, but I used to soft bit of 3 x 2 too seat down to the pipe .when i used the wall who was taking a bit of the plaster off
Jaco produces compression screw fitting for water applications btw. One of prophets of quick fittings told me to replace the ring, it looks like its the achilles foot of quick fiting: it degrades with time, it degrades into the pipe forming a ring around it which is torn on release, it also degrades with every push-pull. Now I learnt that these things arent even replaceable, but still its virtually alternativeless in water treatment.
try silicone or additional safe lubricant/sealant on the internal oring; I have heard of pool guys with caustic media systems literally rebuilding every three months
It looks like orings are replaceable and to an extent reusable; finding the right size oring is the kicker; what is not replaceable is the line end; the tip of the line gets bit; after bite it needs to be removed for fresh line end; ruclips.net/video/sdkmNL3R8YQ/видео.html ruclips.net/video/Juvf51n-mJ0/видео.html
Sir, I make this project.. in this project which pipe and pipe joint use _lh3.googleusercontent.com/pnmcJTtSJQhfGfY1aY1x1BodukyelbSYVzzRjwkCRYAckeAUuHNVsg7zpqpARecP7pbunL0VdA_
Not to knock any advice given in this RUclips video, but in case it isn't common knowledge, the o-rings in these type fittings are usually easy to change out. It's quick and cheap. I recently saw the o-rings on Amazon, $3 USD for 100 qty pkg. Pure Water Products, LLC of Texas has an online instructional for the o-ring replacement process. I am not endorsing PWP, I am just sharing the information. These Push to connect fitting are getting more and more expensive all the time, especially the John Guest products, and the optional o-ring replacement takes only 2 minutes. I don't know about everyone else, but I think 3 cents is better than a few dollars or more.
Go to it then Martin. !!! Worse advice ever !!! is when someone says that. I will look forward to seeing your video when you have done it and make sure I give you some kind comments, not like your shit comments.
pipe OD not smooth; actually I am not sure if the pipe/oring interface is end or outer diameter on the pipe; make sure they are all smooth; consider adding dope or silicone for liquid not sure what for; if gas
It's OD; line has to go through the oring untill the stop; @June Waiz these should get you done; ruclips.net/video/sdkmNL3R8YQ/видео.html ruclips.net/video/Juvf51n-mJ0/видео.html
to remove collar; dental pick hook fits pretty well to evenly pull the collar; also needle nose wedged on both sides between chassis and collar ridge to pry collar out evenly
+dereton33 Thanks for the reply Al - Not sure what you mean - I've had to replace the bath hot water taps twice because they simply didn't work i.e no water came out - yet the original cold water taps still function great - great flow etc...Just wonder why it's always the hot taps that fail first...Thanks!
+1954BJohn Your cold taps may even be off the mains so will always give good pressure. The hot taps are always the first to go, sometimes the body inside them come loose and you end up with no turns left on the tap
Not so fast ya'll elbows and couplings are easy to come by at box stores QRC; but I have some exotics in my system; check valve, flow-meter, flow control+ multiple couplings; armed with insight from the vid here I pulled the collars and the Orings and repacked with silicone lube/sealant and they sealed right up; everything was leaking after a rebuild late at night 40* temps; I wasn't sure if the temperature was making the tubing stiff and non-conforming to the Oring connection or why 'everything' was leaking(streaming); repack with silicone made it seal right up; needle nose+dental pick for the collars; dental pick for Oring removal; [tried to scrub everything lightly with pipe cleanin' brushes and rinse]; Qtip+dental pick for silicone application and Oring reinstall; [Chemical dose application(chlorine) in pool automation; I would much rather compression screw-type collar fittings; but the quest continues for sourcing those; all plastic]
locking clips sometimes don't come with the base units; [like mine from Lowes and lots of other sources] Water (Potable) Components > Push-to-Connect Water Fittings > Locking Clip > LC38-P www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/water_(potable)_components/push-to-connect_water_fittings/locking_clip/lc38-p
I've started collecting sets of my fittings because it seems like sometimes they just need maintenance and in the field[haha, my back yard] even swapping in an old coupling will make it seal; after this video I am going to disassemble/lubricate-extra sealant/lube and reassemble; worked last night in jam
I’ve got the same issue. Lowe’s has a 5/16 OD x 1/4” OD Shark Bite coupler #835034 that may end up taking the place of the water filter- if I can’t dig out & replace the o-rings. I have a feeling this is going to roll into also replacing the the fill solenoid valve with the same connector. Aaaaand discovered the supply valve doesn’t shut off all the way. All this from a pinhole leak in the supply tube which I should have cut out and spliced with a 1/4” Shark Bite/compression/insert coupling.
didn't really need to make a clickbait video saying the obvious, I thought this would be about how to fix microleaks from a pushfit with leak sealer or something like that. Though he is an amiable codger
Thank you for the advice. Mine leaked and I was unsure what to do. Now, thanks to you, I do.
No problem
Thanks for the video. Funny, I had the same problem with a straight Speedfit fitting connecting copper to barrier pipe leaking on the copper side. After cleaning up the pipe etc, checking that the barrier pipe had a strengthing insert etc it just wouldn't stop leaking. Couldn't see anything wrong with the rubber seal inside but didn't use a hacksaw to take it apart :) In the end just replaced it with, my preference, a straight Hep20. Problem solved.
Always best to renew them.
Very good advice Al 👍👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it
@@dereton33 just doing repipping a toilet and bathroom that I’m turning into a walk in shower and putting it all under the floor, but while using the JG insert with the extra o rings could not get them to push in like they do on the video’s maybe it’s because a lot of the strength and more with the emphysema, but I used to soft bit of 3 x 2 too seat down to the pipe .when i used the wall who was taking a bit of the plaster off
So what if you fit one and its leaking and the washer is fine inside is that a problem with the push fit fitting on to my copper pipe?
Yes change the entire fitting.
I've done it and it's all sorted now 👍🏻
Jaco produces compression screw fitting for water applications btw. One of prophets of quick fittings told me to replace the ring, it looks like its the achilles foot of quick fiting: it degrades with time, it degrades into the pipe forming a ring around it which is torn on release, it also degrades with every push-pull. Now I learnt that these things arent even replaceable, but still its virtually alternativeless in water treatment.
try silicone or additional safe lubricant/sealant on the internal oring; I have heard of pool guys with caustic media systems literally rebuilding every three months
It looks like orings are replaceable and to an extent reusable; finding the right size oring is the kicker; what is not replaceable is the line end; the tip of the line gets bit; after bite it needs to be removed for fresh line end;
ruclips.net/video/sdkmNL3R8YQ/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/Juvf51n-mJ0/видео.html
Steel grip ring is also missing.
yes.
hi sir
which fitting and flexible pipes suitable for vacuum pump
All are suitable for one of those.
Sir,
I make this project.. in this project which pipe and pipe joint use
_lh3.googleusercontent.com/pnmcJTtSJQhfGfY1aY1x1BodukyelbSYVzzRjwkCRYAckeAUuHNVsg7zpqpARecP7pbunL0VdA_
Spot on thanks for your time.
You're very welcome
Not to knock any advice given in this RUclips video, but in case it isn't common knowledge, the o-rings in these type fittings are usually easy to change out. It's quick and cheap. I recently saw the o-rings on Amazon, $3 USD for 100 qty pkg. Pure Water Products, LLC of Texas has an online instructional for the o-ring replacement process. I am not endorsing PWP, I am just sharing the information. These Push to connect fitting are getting more and more expensive all the time, especially the John Guest products, and the optional o-ring replacement takes only 2 minutes. I don't know about everyone else, but I think 3 cents is better than a few dollars or more.
Go to it then Martin. !!! Worse advice ever !!! is when someone says that. I will look forward to seeing your video when you have done it and make sure I give you some kind comments, not like your shit comments.
I replace my push fit connector with a new one and it still leaks, what could be the cause?
The pipe end is not square or there is old paint on it.
pipe OD not smooth; actually I am not sure if the pipe/oring interface is end or outer diameter on the pipe; make sure they are all smooth; consider adding dope or silicone for liquid not sure what for; if gas
It's OD; line has to go through the oring untill the stop;
@June Waiz these should get you done;
ruclips.net/video/sdkmNL3R8YQ/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/Juvf51n-mJ0/видео.html
How do you undo one these? Thanks.
Hold the ring back with your fingers and pull.
to remove collar; dental pick hook fits pretty well to evenly pull the collar; also needle nose wedged on both sides between chassis and collar ridge to pry collar out evenly
Thanks Al - A quick question - why do my hot taps stop working (no water ) before my cold taps.
+1954BJohn They are feed from the roof tank and the tapping hole is always above the cold feed hole.
+dereton33 Thanks for the reply Al - Not sure what you mean - I've had to replace the bath hot water taps twice because they simply didn't work i.e no water came out - yet the original cold water taps still function great - great flow etc...Just wonder why it's always the hot taps that fail first...Thanks!
+1954BJohn Your cold taps may even be off the mains so will always give good pressure. The hot taps are always the first to go, sometimes the body inside them come loose and you end up with no turns left on the tap
Thanks for the explanation Al!
+dereton33 If you were replacing taps, do you have a preference for the old washer design, or the ceramic disc quarter turn type?
Really helpful thanks
No problem!
I wish someone would make a video on how to remove one when it’s seized on the pipe & the push sleeve won’t budge to get it off 🤯
That`s a different story.
In another words if your fittings leak don't loose your time trying to fix this, just buy a new one.
That`s about it.
dissassemble and reassemble with silicone pack on the orings
thanks 4 saving me the time of trying to fix this garbage ass fiting...is there a fiting u wold recommend?
I always prefer compression fittings.
Not so fast ya'll elbows and couplings are easy to come by at box stores QRC; but I have some exotics in my system; check valve, flow-meter, flow control+ multiple couplings; armed with insight from the vid here I pulled the collars and the Orings and repacked with silicone lube/sealant and they sealed right up; everything was leaking after a rebuild late at night 40* temps; I wasn't sure if the temperature was making the tubing stiff and non-conforming to the Oring connection or why 'everything' was leaking(streaming); repack with silicone made it seal right up; needle nose+dental pick for the collars; dental pick for Oring removal; [tried to scrub everything lightly with pipe cleanin' brushes and rinse]; Qtip+dental pick for silicone application and Oring reinstall; [Chemical dose application(chlorine) in pool automation; I would much rather compression screw-type collar fittings; but the quest continues for sourcing those; all plastic]
locking clips sometimes don't come with the base units; [like mine from Lowes and lots of other sources]
Water (Potable) Components > Push-to-Connect Water Fittings > Locking Clip > LC38-P
www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/water_(potable)_components/push-to-connect_water_fittings/locking_clip/lc38-p
be sure to attempt to remove bit line end for fresh line end when replacing or servicing or troubleshooting; if possible or needed
The connector broke off in the top of the filter holder. I can’t get it out! HELP
Will have to be replaced.
If it leaks once , replace the fitting. If you get more than one leak...stop using push fit & find an alternative.
I've started collecting sets of my fittings because it seems like sometimes they just need maintenance and in the field[haha, my back yard] even swapping in an old coupling will make it seal; after this video I am going to disassemble/lubricate-extra sealant/lube and reassemble; worked last night in jam
Still looking for someone who can explain exactly what is going on inside.
Life is a mystery.
Not helpful, the fitting is molded into the water filter
Cant win em all.
I’ve got the same issue. Lowe’s has a 5/16 OD x 1/4” OD Shark Bite coupler #835034 that may end up taking the place of the water filter- if I can’t dig out & replace the o-rings. I have a feeling this is going to roll into also replacing the the fill solenoid valve with the same connector. Aaaaand discovered the supply valve doesn’t shut off all the way. All this from a pinhole leak in the supply tube which I should have cut out and spliced with a 1/4” Shark Bite/compression/insert coupling.
Buy another one.
Ha ha.
@@dereton33 😁
that didn't help me even a bit
What is it you need to know?
didn't really need to make a clickbait video saying the obvious, I thought this would be about how to fix microleaks from a pushfit with leak sealer or something like that. Though he is an amiable codger
An AMABLE CODGER !!!!
Just wasted 5 minutes of my life watching this , it was like watching paint dry a new one costs pennies.
If you could not get hold of one because it was late and you had an emergency, you would fix it.