Hyundai Santa Fe - Daytime Running Light Repair
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- One of the daytime running lights (DRLs) on my 2014 Hyundai Santa Fe quit working a few months ago. I've been ignoring it given a replacement is $688.85 from the Hyundai Dealer. Here I attempt to fix it rather than replacing it.
Some of the info I used came from here:
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I got some 4.7 ohm resistors from Jaycar:
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My wife's 2014 Santa Fe had the same problem. I showed my local auto electrician your vid and he fixed the problem, replaced all 4 resistors, 2 hours labour. You saved me a great deal of money so thanks for the effort, really appreciate it.
Awesome! Glad I could help
4.7 ohm or 4.7k ohm?
I would like to see more of your son. What a charming young man. Maybe you could give an interview with him. Let him tell us what he likes and dislikes. He's an untapped source of fun and joy for us.
A nice economic and educational repair to a ridiculously mega expensive item, so well done. Really enjoyed the involvement of the lad, he is adorable and very well spoken for his age. I learnt so much about fixing stuff from a very early age, and it has stood me in good stead for the last 60 years. I reckon Charlie will be running the country in about 20 years time, and fixing up cars on his days off of course.
He's a great helper and it's always a pleasure having him help do dad's jobs as he calls them. Cheers
I've got a Santa Fe 2014 and I just experienced the same problem on the right DRL.
Curiously, I found another video in which the same 4 - resistors were the root cause of the problem (it might be a low quality components or even a marginal design...)
Many Thanks for sharing.
Im in NZ too and have the same running light out on my one. Just got quoted $997.50 plus gst to get it replaced by Hyundai! thanks for saving me some money.
Hyundai parts are super expensive!
Thanks so much for the video mate, you just saved me over £300 here in Ireland. With 4 child seats now this as you can imagine was a great help🤣👌🏻
That's awesome. Great to hear 😁
I have the same problem, what was the component that is giving the trouble so I can have it ready to go mate tia
Thanks for showing us how it's done...
The RoHS compliance has forced manufactures to use Tin/Silver solder, which is more prone to cracking and also "Silver Migration" discovered on some ECUs boards now...
When you re-flow the solder joints, you can use Tin/Lead flux core solder to improve longevity...
Imagine if they had used the Tin/Lead Solder to begin with, then the lights would probably last 20+ years or more... How's that for a reduction in lead in the landfills...!
Indeed. Im also familiar with the side effects of ROHS. Notice how the SAME people mandating ROHS, also mandate working corner markers?
Nice job mate
Cheers mate
Nice Job, it's certainly worth the effort to save the 700+ installed....
I was wondering, since you went to the trouble off removing the front to access the lights, did you review the circuit board on BOTH lights ?
Did you re-flow the other solder joints on the board ?
Most of the time involved in fixing the light is the separating the 2 halves of the light. The bumper comes off in minutes. Therefore I just fixed the problem one and will address the other one if I ever need too. Cheers
I just replaced my resisters. They get so hot; 65 degress centigrade. I bent the legs of the resistors so they were 5mm off the board to help with the heat.
Thanks for the video. I don't have your problem but now I know I can get the assembly apart to repair the diffuser which fell off inside. A common issue on these. I inherited this Hyundai and have noticed a lot of small but almost unforgivable quality issues. I just hope this is because engine and powertrain received all the quality.
A job well done, many mechanics are afraid of electronics because it takes some skill to solder properly.
Thanks, it wasn't such a bad job. No way was I paying for a whole new light! Cheers
@@Badgertronix I love it how you involve your son.
Thank god it’s finally working
I was going to dedicate this video to you
Lead free solder on your LEDs, there's your problem lady! Seriously, under-specced components that overheat and burn out or de-solder themselves are a common problem. Good move to replace all the resistors with higher rated ones. Well done.
Definitely not built to last but it did make it to nearly 300,000kms so that's quite a lot of run time. Hopefully this should last for a few hundred thousand more. Cheers
Agreed... The RoHS compliance has forced manufactures to use Tin/Silver solder, which is more prone to cracking and also "Silver Migration" found in ECUs now...
When you re-flow the solder joints, you can use Tin/Lead flux core solder to improve longevity...
Imagine if they had used the Tin/Lead Solder to begin with, then the lights would probably last 20+ years or more... How's that for a reduction in lead in the landfills...!
Great job, thanks mate
great job, Charlie!
cheers!
Good job on the light but where’s the Morris Minor?
😁
Great work.
Thanks buddy. Charlie was the brains of the operation
I've no idea what the antipodean is for 'well chuffed' but you must have been that and a little bit more. Cheers!
That about sums it up! Cheers
4.7k ohm or 4.7 ohm?
2nd, boom boom. You just paid yourself a lot of money. I liked the 4 year old's take on the power probe.
Thanks buddy, a satisfying repair. That boy will go far 😍
Tiny fussy bit to solder . Charlie's apprenticeship is well on it's way 👍
My folks owned an electronics company. I can almost claim 40 years experience from 40 years ago 🤣🤣
@@Badgertronix 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Well done. Badgertronix 1- Dealer 0
Thanks 😄
Porfavor en español para entender mejor..muchas gracias
Has anyone removed this light without removing the bar
No
Soldering is frustrating and you havn't done it right until you burn yourself haha
there is that 😂 try doing it with an inquisitive 4 year old looking over your shoulder
1st BOOM