Thanks for watching, pretty sure I got all the tool names right in this one! Have a little surprise in this one, you may see it or maybe you'll miss it. If you want to check out Monaco Tools, I'm not being paid to say this, but I really like their tools: Monaco Counterbore Cutter: monacotool.com/products/50139?.50139&B50139&.ape.50139 Adept Ape stickers: griddesigns.net/products/adep... Amazon Affiliates to recommend tools: Screaming Goat: amzn.to/3WORcAH Milwaukee 1” Impact Wrench: amzn.to/3AOKu5i Milwaukee 1/2” High Impact Wrench: amzn.to/47lli2c
As a former owner of a bunch of Petes, mostly Cat powered, your vids are amazingly interesting and entertaining! Hope you’re doing well as an independent mechanic out on your own! God bless Josh!
Love the videos, I work for a ferry company and we have 33 boats which are all Cat powered anywhere from 2-4 Engines. 3406e, c18, c32, 3412, 3512 depending on the boat. Been there 15yrs probably done over 100 inframes. We have a Kent counterbore tool.
Hey Josh. Thanks for helping me and my buddy out. You recently sent him a manual for a c-15(I think). We are overhauling it, leaking liner o-ring on cylinder 1.
I had a exactly the same model C18 on my peterbilt 379 over 2.744.000kms and still going very good 👍 👌 this is a one of the best CAT engine I think 🤔 regular maintenance and keep going pulling hard 😊😊 cheers from Norway 👍👍
@prevost8686 I import my 98 peterbilt in 2008 in USA made exactly 508.000mls/800.000kms on this before I import!! here we can loading brutos 50ton!! it's a standard heavy in Norway and all this years I making a regular maintenance on engine NEVER EVER doing anything! economy and powerful engine
When u overhaul this family of engines liner lip must make 100% contact on deck so if it doesn't counterbore it and try to get all protrusions within a thou .when installing liners soak filler bands for about 20 minutes in engine oil .manual says 5 mins but I have had them in oiluch longer and they are still not swollen too much to install .lubricate orings well fill grooves with lubricant and push in gently .torque head to specs and use manual specified lubricant on bolt threads and note well all bolt holes need to be cleaned well so no thread binding can occur .I always ran a tap down EVERY HEADBOLT HOLE IN BLOCK EVERY ENGINE. 1 tight bolt hole can cause a problem later .Anyway 3406 lubricant was 5p copperkote quoted in manual don't add extra torque when tensioning head ..There was a lot of cracked liners years back and I used workshop manual as bible and never had this happen .lol .basic sense .I just had 2 bobs worth here for old times sake .I did the odd Cat engine long ago .and insisted on the manual being followed in the workshop .Using other lubricants on threads of head bolts and giving 10% extra on torque wrench can lead to fuck ups . Obey the correct manual relating to the engine you are doing is my golden rule
The liners are exactly what they should look like - the same as the day they went in. With Long Life Coolants you should never see any rust or cavitation these days (should never have seen significant cavitation. 3306/3406/C15/18/3500 are all old style liner designs. They had improved designs in having the spacer plate so to remove the counterbore for the liner lip. The liner the is supported down near the bottom of the liner. Newer design 3176/C10/11/12/13/C175 (Series 60) are mid supported liners. They have no flange at the top and they rest about midway down the liner (hence the name) at about where the piston changes direction. This means the liner is thicker than otherwise and the combustion part of the liner is supported top and bottom. A much better system and one that rarely if ever needs to have counterbores done.
Thanks for the video! Not surprising the sunk liners. We see it quite often on c18 and c32 since they share the same liner. Since they updated them back in 2019 or so, just chew up block counter bores. Once you counter bore them, they don't seem to have an issue again. I had to cut a whole alittle over .100" to get it to finally clean up. Plus on the c32 they wear out the lower receivers usuallyhave to insert them at everyrebuild to. Take care
Piston rings rotate in the grooves when the engine is running. (Unpinned 4 cycle,) The end gaps occasionally align, but not for long. It is abnormal if the rings get stuck in the grooves and stop rotating during operation. At maximum engine speed, the rings rotate +/- ~ 6 RPM according to Ricardo.
My personal preference is to put main bearings in before cutting the block. For one to make sure the crank is in good shape and also I feel better about no chance of getting metal in them because they are already in and toqued.
I got one of the new Milwaukee 1/2” High Torque Impacts with the Forge Batteries for some stubborn bolts on a job 5/8” and up. Oh my gosh, it is an absolute monster and will snap off a grade 5 5/8” bolt way to easily. I have a lot of red tools, some are worth the hype, some are not. That one is definitely worth the hype. The Forge Batteries are impressive in whatever tool I use them in. Extremely long runtimes and compact size. I hear they have even better tech on the way. Those sleeves look thin, better heat transfer. Thanks for the Videos, Josh. Looking forward to the next video on the C18.
Enjoy your evening with all your family around you,Adept Ape Brilliant video 👍 SHARP-WITTED, Adept Ape Take care,Adept Ape From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 13:48 Good Afternoon
Adaptape...if you can find a Autocrane electric crane, they work great floor mounted in the shop for lifting, turning engines, trans, etc. Torquing mains, rods with the block laying on it's side is easier, faster and you can see 👀 better.
The Milwaukee 1 inch impact gun is great if you think it's not working well it will be down to you using a too smaller battery you need to use the largest battery you can buy with them they are amazing
Great video josh. Had a great laugh about Canadian Border living north. I understood your concern and thinking. 😂😂😂. The injector test is great to show. Its a great series man. Cheers Josh. 🔧🔩💪👍👊💪
The exhaust valves are to that side of the cylinder, so the liner expands ans contract the most on that side of the cylinder! Also when the engine stops air can come back from the exhaust to cool the open exhaust port and the liner cools and shrinks, over time it wears the block. The stainless steal shim-inserts spread the cooling area out from under the liner lessening this effect on the block area! Watch on the engines you find the erosion, and it is in the exhaust valve side of the cylinder!
You are correct in that it is usually on the exhaust valve side of the liner, never really thought it could have anything to do with the valves, you might be onto something.
Those packing peanuts are made of corn starch. They dissolve in water. Put a handful in a drinking fountain and run some water on them. They'll from a white goo that will make people think twice before using the drinking fountain.
@AdeptApe, Josh, the 3/4” Milwaukee is a lot better than the 1” pistol grip. If you put the 12.0 amp battery and adjust the setting on the app, for the 3/4”, it’s the same as the 1”. Food for thought.
wondering if you could make an adapter for a battery drill to turn the counterbore cutter, seems like it would make for a better time, if careful at least heh
Great video. Cool rebuild. You are probably familiar with the torque test channel on RUclips. They seem to be very fair in their testing of all kinds of tools. Milwaukee usually does well.
If you wanna really good 1" handheld impact go with the 40V Makia XGT... i have used both and its not even close to the same. That Milwaukee you have makes more power in forward where as the Makia makes its power in reverse which is personally where i prefer it.
Hey Josh, ever notice that the head gasket fails the most on number four cylinder on in-line six cylinder engines. Also the coolant use to enter on number four and Cat changed it to the rear now. Had one come in a few years ago, that entered in number four. The customer used the block heater plug and put a hose to the rear as well.
At about 1:03 I thought I saw a flying monkey pass by the garage door. I went back and I saw a floating gorilla? (Maybe not but it's been a long day). Wizard of Oz flashback here. The WoZ was on network TV every year back in the 70's +/-. To this day I'm terrified of flying monkeys. Not sure if I should continue watching. Eh, whom I fooling, I can't NOT watch your videos. Cherry pickers and vans included! Thanx for the great videos Josh.
I lived in North Idaho most of my life. Moved to Alaska. Trust me, North Idaho is a banana belt compared to interior Alaska where 50 below is frequent.
Relating to you comment about liners not being easy to pull, we had a series 60 detroit that bound up on of the seals. Welded a bar in and tried to pull it out with the crane, ended up lifting the front of truck off the ground by the liner. Ended up having to remove the engine and get the liner out with the press
Haven't had one that tough, but have had them where the pack puller wouldn't pull them out and you have to pull the pistons and then use the puller assembly. Strange that the little seal you can probably bite in half with your teeth will bind that liner in there so tight.
The 14 L 60 series big rod end won't fit through the liner. The pack puller wouldn't grab the liner so we ended up putting a sheet of heavy grit sandpaper around the tool to get them out.
As far as Milwaukee impacts rank, Torque Test Channel has "Dyno chart of every Milwaukee Fuel Impact". The 1" is basically same as 1/2 or 3/4 as far as removal torque. 1" is better at tightening though. There is newer impacts since this video, not on graph.
On an F150 I did front struts on, I think it was a 2004-2008 body style, it had a large bolt and captured nut. Torque spec on that was 450ft/lbs. Thankfully my shop has a OTC 3/4 torque wrench that goes up to 600ft/lbs. Even with me kind of hanging on, I could barely get it to click, but was able to do it. Kind of scrawny at 5'9 and 170lbs.
Found this channel by pure luck. Been looking for a good, serious and nice channel from the US but most people seem to think the audience are idiots or "blowing up a runaway Detroit 2 stroke" is funny. Whoever flushes the rail first is my cup of tea. An old Swed
If you think that's all the Detroit (yes I know he's a cat man people)bloke does you really should search through his videos. He has some excellent videos. He is as dry as a nuns nasty but a spot on or it's not sorta bloke. Not overly amused by his grenade videos though have found them interesting. If i was local and needing a caterpillar rebuilt I'd definitely call KT3406e who i think is the bloke you're referring to.
If you ever get the chance to work on a cat 3412E v12 twin turbo model there's not much information out there on overheads, valve clearances on v12 cats and troubleshooting !
👍👍like anyone cares, but I've deduced from various sources,that the liner issues that engine and others can potentially have is very likely from the low rod/ stroke ratio ...long stroke with a connecting rod that is too short..it side load's the piston/ liner to the passenger side.. causing it to vibrate/ wear more so that direction.... perhaps that isn't the entire story and i know someone else out there knows more on the subject....it doesn't really matter...great engine's either way... thanks for another video 👍👊
On my d8h i tryed pulling one out with a 5 tone chain host and bent the 1/4 inch plate and couldn't get it tell i cut it with a grinder and 2 crowbar to pull it out
The dude from down state Idaho has I R battery powered that could be described as disappointing. I think in the past you may have discussed single switch blade turbos for "Cat" applications. Jpaydirt is the reason I subscribed to AA.... lol
What do you think of intake manifold water injection for turbo diesel? I heard it keeps the valves clean and helps cool the engine down more efficiently while allowing more reliable boost and fuel efficiency. I bet it would prevent dpf blockages and egr carbon buildup and or blockages.
I didn’t want to sound dumb so I spent the last week trying to figure out what IR meant if not Ingersoll Rand. I thought it was a name for an impact driver I wasn’t aware of
Try a forge battery or put a larger battery on the 1 inch impact. And also make sure you’re using genuine Milwaukee batteries as there are fakes out there.
I know that keeping to your process is good practice but is there any real consequences of hanging the crank from the main seals if your replacing them before the engine goes in either way?
Off topic a little but you are my go to so… I am doing injector seals in a 97 Ford L8501 Dump truck with a 3126. My issue is, this 3126 has the injectors that require me to remove the rockers and I wasn’t aware that there are cups between the pushrod and rockers. I did manage to not drop them but somewhere between my work bench and the truck, I’ve lost 1 of them. So I have 2 questions. 1. What does cat call them in case I have to order? 2. For peace of mind, I ran my bore scope down in the hole and while I didn’t see anything, theoretically, could one of these make it all the way to the pan or if not, how far could it go? Sorry for the long post.
@AdeptApe I was highly disappointed when I received the gun and is not what expected I ended up buying the d handle which is better but still won't beat air impact specially doing undercarriage work I maintain a fleet of 120+ pieces of equipment I have used both 1" milwaukee guns for just about anything
Hello thanks for another great video you do great work! What brand and where did you get your sled gage or depth gage I use an old depth gage but it’s not as easy to get good quality measurements thanks again for the videos keep it up!
Hey Josh, this is Walter from Seattle, I hope to meet you in person one day, maybe you can do a tuneup for me, great video like always, and waiting for email reply from you! 🤝👍
Howdy! Was wondering what product to purchase for repairing the pitting in the lower liner bores? That liquid steel stuff you use? Let me know if you could Thanks!!
If real bad Quinn dealership Cat, in California has a sleeve that they put in the lower bore to repair the block, The machinist there has done lots and lots of them!
I had a c7.1 on a generator set that looked very similar to this. The spacer shim/gasket leaked oil at very low hours. I think it had less than 50 hours on it. Had to get the block refinished. Solved the problem.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for watching, pretty sure I got all the tool names right in this one! Have a little surprise in this one, you may see it or maybe you'll miss it.
If you want to check out Monaco Tools, I'm not being paid to say this, but I really like their tools:
Monaco Counterbore Cutter: monacotool.com/products/50139?.50139&B50139&.ape.50139
Adept Ape stickers: griddesigns.net/products/adep...
Amazon Affiliates to recommend tools:
Screaming Goat: amzn.to/3WORcAH
Milwaukee 1” Impact Wrench: amzn.to/3AOKu5i
Milwaukee 1/2” High Impact Wrench: amzn.to/47lli2c
I never take the dowel pins out
As a former owner of a bunch of Petes, mostly Cat powered, your vids are amazingly interesting and entertaining! Hope you’re doing well as an independent mechanic out on your own! God bless Josh!
And yes some of us in Canada still live in igloos🙄 but we are slowly building more houses and moving out of the igloos
Love the videos, I work for a ferry company and we have 33 boats which are all Cat powered anywhere from 2-4 Engines.
3406e, c18, c32, 3412, 3512 depending on the boat. Been there 15yrs probably done over 100 inframes. We have a Kent counterbore tool.
Hey Josh. Thanks for helping me and my buddy out. You recently sent him a manual for a c-15(I think). We are overhauling it, leaking liner o-ring on cylinder 1.
I had a exactly the same model C18 on my peterbilt 379 over 2.744.000kms and still going very good 👍 👌 this is a one of the best CAT engine I think 🤔 regular maintenance and keep going pulling hard 😊😊 cheers from Norway 👍👍
I was just wondering if C18 ever found their way into OTR trucks.
@prevost8686 I import my 98 peterbilt in 2008 in USA made exactly 508.000mls/800.000kms on this before I import!! here we can loading brutos 50ton!! it's a standard heavy in Norway and all this years I making a regular maintenance on engine NEVER EVER doing anything! economy and powerful engine
Worst engine to be fitted in Sisu trucks.
@@V8Lenny I never seen a C18 on the SIZU trucks 🤔🤔 only a 3406E and C15
@@jorgefonseca9225 no 3406E in Sisus , only C18 and C13 and C15 Acerts.
As you were wrapping up the video I thought "Hey. We didn't get the goat-scream." But then we did. Cool.
The goat will find his way in.
When u overhaul this family of engines liner lip must make 100% contact on deck so if it doesn't counterbore it and try to get all protrusions within a thou .when installing liners soak filler bands for about 20 minutes in engine oil .manual says 5 mins but I have had them in oiluch longer and they are still not swollen too much to install .lubricate orings well fill grooves with lubricant and push in gently .torque head to specs and use manual specified lubricant on bolt threads and note well all bolt holes need to be cleaned well so no thread binding can occur .I always ran a tap down EVERY HEADBOLT HOLE IN BLOCK EVERY ENGINE. 1 tight bolt hole can cause a problem later .Anyway 3406 lubricant was 5p copperkote quoted in manual don't add extra torque when tensioning head ..There was a lot of cracked liners years back and I used workshop manual as bible and never had this happen .lol .basic sense .I just had 2 bobs worth here for old times sake .I did the odd Cat engine long ago .and insisted on the manual being followed in the workshop .Using other lubricants on threads of head bolts and giving 10% extra on torque wrench can lead to fuck ups . Obey the correct manual relating to the engine you are doing is my golden rule
The liners are exactly what they should look like - the same as the day they went in. With Long Life Coolants you should never see any rust or cavitation these days (should never have seen significant cavitation.
3306/3406/C15/18/3500 are all old style liner designs. They had improved designs in having the spacer plate so to remove the counterbore for the liner lip. The liner the is supported down near the bottom of the liner. Newer design 3176/C10/11/12/13/C175 (Series 60) are mid supported liners. They have no flange at the top and they rest about midway down the liner (hence the name) at about where the piston changes direction. This means the liner is thicker than otherwise and the combustion part of the liner is supported top and bottom. A much better system and one that rarely if ever needs to have counterbores done.
Thanks for the video! Not surprising the sunk liners. We see it quite often on c18 and c32 since they share the same liner. Since they updated them back in 2019 or so, just chew up block counter bores. Once you counter bore them, they don't seem to have an issue again. I had to cut a whole alittle over .100" to get it to finally clean up. Plus on the c32 they wear out the lower receivers usuallyhave to insert them at everyrebuild to. Take care
Piston rings rotate in the grooves when the engine is running. (Unpinned 4 cycle,) The end gaps occasionally align, but not for long. It is abnormal if the rings get stuck in the grooves and stop rotating during operation. At maximum engine speed, the rings rotate +/- ~ 6 RPM according to Ricardo.
Well….
If Riccardo says so..
@@fastinradfordable Ref: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harry_Ricardo
My personal preference is to put main bearings in before cutting the block. For one to make sure the crank is in good shape and also I feel better about no chance of getting metal in them because they are already in and toqued.
Shavings cen still ingress because of the large crank radius.
I still use my IR titanium air impact for a lot of garage work, it just works 👍
Liners and a block had no rust. I guess they were replacing coolant at reasonable intervals. Thank you for the video!
Quite a few C18’s in the oil fields. They sound mean !
I got one of the new Milwaukee 1/2” High Torque Impacts with the Forge Batteries for some stubborn bolts on a job 5/8” and up. Oh my gosh, it is an absolute monster and will snap off a grade 5 5/8” bolt way to easily. I have a lot of red tools, some are worth the hype, some are not. That one is definitely worth the hype. The Forge Batteries are impressive in whatever tool I use them in. Extremely long runtimes and compact size. I hear they have even better tech on the way. Those sleeves look thin, better heat transfer. Thanks for the Videos, Josh. Looking forward to the next video on the C18.
I use that same Milwaukee vacuum in my truck, fits great under the bunk and does a great job
Great video, very interesting, really enjoy !!
Your Workmanship is amazing !!! A true Craftsman !!!
Thank you Bret.
Enjoy your evening with all your family around you,Adept Ape
Brilliant video
👍
SHARP-WITTED, Adept Ape
Take care,Adept Ape
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 13:48 Good Afternoon
Thank you Nick.
Good point on the ring gap. The reason they want us to separate ring gaps is strictly for break in. Align all rings and compression will be the same.
Nice c-bore cutter Josh, wow. 😍I want one and I'm not even a big truck mechanic.
I worked with dozens of these as a control system engineer on the pump stations in and around NOLA for several years. Nice to see one torn down!
Can’t wait for the finished product. Keep up the great work and content. ☺️
Put a bigger battery in your impact, makes a fair difference in the Milwaukee guns
Adaptape...if you can find a Autocrane electric crane, they work great floor mounted in the shop for lifting, turning engines, trans, etc.
Torquing mains, rods with the block laying on it's side is easier, faster and you can see 👀 better.
Dude, sure has his Bag of Tricks. He has accumulated along the way. 10 4
The Milwaukee 1 inch impact gun is great if you think it's not working well it will be down to you using a too smaller battery you need to use the largest battery you can buy with them they are amazing
Great video josh. Had a great laugh about Canadian Border living north. I understood your concern and thinking. 😂😂😂. The injector test is great to show. Its a great series man. Cheers Josh. 🔧🔩💪👍👊💪
The exhaust valves are to that side of the cylinder, so the liner expands ans contract the most on that side of the cylinder! Also when the engine stops air can come back from the exhaust to cool the open exhaust port and the liner cools and shrinks, over time it wears the block. The stainless steal shim-inserts spread the cooling area out from under the liner lessening this effect on the block area! Watch on the engines you find the erosion, and it is in the exhaust valve side of the cylinder!
You are correct in that it is usually on the exhaust valve side of the liner, never really thought it could have anything to do with the valves, you might be onto something.
Those packing peanuts are made of corn starch. They dissolve in water. Put a handful in a drinking fountain and run some water on them. They'll from a white goo that will make people think twice before using the drinking fountain.
Interesting video,I love the way you work,very neat
@AdeptApe, Josh, the 3/4” Milwaukee is a lot better than the 1” pistol grip. If you put the 12.0 amp battery and adjust the setting on the app, for the 3/4”, it’s the same as the 1”. Food for thought.
And the makita 40v is even better😊
wondering if you could make an adapter for a battery drill to turn the counterbore cutter, seems like it would make for a better time, if careful at least heh
LOL that sasquatch in the woods
Fantastic video Josh !!!!!!
Those pistol grip 1” were designed for iron workers they actually have more torque forward than reverse
Great video. Cool rebuild. You are probably familiar with the torque test channel on RUclips. They seem to be very fair in their testing of all kinds of tools. Milwaukee usually does well.
If you wanna really good 1" handheld impact go with the 40V Makia XGT... i have used both and its not even close to the same. That Milwaukee you have makes more power in forward where as the Makia makes its power in reverse which is personally where i prefer it.
Those 40 volt are monsters. Soooo bloody expensive tho
@@DanWoelders-fd5zd Yeah they are pricy but it’s not much different in the terms compared to the 1” Milwaukee he already has.
Ahh, Bigfoot watching your work.
Hey Josh, ever notice that the head gasket fails the most on number four cylinder on in-line six cylinder engines. Also the coolant use to enter on number four and Cat changed it to the rear now. Had one come in a few years ago, that entered in number four. The customer used the block heater plug and put a hose to the rear as well.
Did you check the block deck for end to end flatness?
Yeah, I ran the old straight edge across it.
At about 1:03 I thought I saw a flying monkey pass by the garage door. I went back and I saw a floating gorilla? (Maybe not but it's been a long day).
Wizard of Oz flashback here. The WoZ was on network TV every year back in the 70's +/-. To this day I'm terrified of flying monkeys. Not sure if I should continue watching.
Eh, whom I fooling, I can't NOT watch your videos. Cherry pickers and vans included!
Thanx for the great videos Josh.
Awesome video rebuilding of a beast.
I lived in North Idaho most of my life. Moved to Alaska. Trust me, North Idaho is a banana belt compared to interior Alaska where 50 below is frequent.
Saw a video from someone in Fairbanks. It was 40 below. He took the top off a quart of motor oil and turned it upside down and nothing came out.
@@williambarry8015 The reason we have pan heaters.
Relating to you comment about liners not being easy to pull, we had a series 60 detroit that bound up on of the seals.
Welded a bar in and tried to pull it out with the crane, ended up lifting the front of truck off the ground by the liner.
Ended up having to remove the engine and get the liner out with the press
Haven't had one that tough, but have had them where the pack puller wouldn't pull them out and you have to pull the pistons and then use the puller assembly. Strange that the little seal you can probably bite in half with your teeth will bind that liner in there so tight.
The 14 L 60 series big rod end won't fit through the liner. The pack puller wouldn't grab the liner so we ended up putting a sheet of heavy grit sandpaper around the tool to get them out.
You make great videos. Thanks.
Great channel, love it.
As far as Milwaukee impacts rank, Torque Test Channel has "Dyno chart of every Milwaukee Fuel Impact". The 1" is basically same as 1/2 or 3/4 as far as removal torque. 1" is better at tightening though. There is newer impacts since this video, not on graph.
On an F150 I did front struts on, I think it was a 2004-2008 body style, it had a large bolt and captured nut. Torque spec on that was 450ft/lbs. Thankfully my shop has a OTC 3/4 torque wrench that goes up to 600ft/lbs. Even with me kind of hanging on, I could barely get it to click, but was able to do it. Kind of scrawny at 5'9 and 170lbs.
Yeah they're made for men 😂
Green frog tape would work perfectly to cover adjacent cylinders to keep metal shavings from contanimating them
Found this channel by pure luck. Been looking for a good, serious and nice channel from the US but most people seem to think the audience are idiots or "blowing up a runaway Detroit 2 stroke" is funny.
Whoever flushes the rail first is my cup of tea.
An old Swed
If you think that's all the Detroit (yes I know he's a cat man people)bloke does you really should search through his videos. He has some excellent videos. He is as dry as a nuns nasty but a spot on or it's not sorta bloke. Not overly amused by his grenade videos though have found them interesting. If i was local and needing a caterpillar rebuilt I'd definitely call KT3406e who i think is the bloke you're referring to.
Wearing a hoodie in August…… damn it’s 110-115 w the heat index here(Oklahoma) in august.
Spent a lot of time in Vegas, so I'm familiar with the heat, definitely had enough for 1 lifetime.
If you ever get the chance to work on a cat 3412E v12 twin turbo model there's not much information out there on overheads, valve clearances on v12 cats and troubleshooting !
I have everything you can imagine in milwaukee and awl are good
👍👍like anyone cares, but I've deduced from various sources,that the liner issues that engine and others can potentially have is very likely from the low rod/ stroke ratio ...long stroke with a connecting rod that is too short..it side load's the piston/ liner to the passenger side.. causing it to vibrate/ wear more so that direction.... perhaps that isn't the entire story and i know someone else out there knows more on the subject....it doesn't really matter...great engine's either way... thanks for another video 👍👊
I have the 3/4 nice
Hey Josh try the IR w7152 1/2 inch she's a beast I use it all the time for mains in my opinion I think its stronger than the 1" milwaukee
That's a dial indicator with a depth base. Not a depth micrometer.
Nice
On my d8h i tryed pulling one out with a 5 tone chain host and bent the 1/4 inch plate and couldn't get it tell i cut it with a grinder and 2 crowbar to pull it out
Put rags in the cylinders keep shavings out
I saw a squach! Be careful out there.
16:51 pause the video. Look at the bottom of the frame just to the right of middle. What is that crack?
The IR statement shows you been doing this for awhile that’s all we had coming up.
The dude from down state Idaho has I R battery powered that could be described as disappointing. I think in the past you may have discussed single switch blade turbos for "Cat" applications. Jpaydirt is the reason I subscribed to AA.... lol
I'm also here because Jeff sent me with his Kenworth Switchblade conversion!
What do you think of intake manifold water injection for turbo diesel? I heard it keeps the valves clean and helps cool the engine down more efficiently while allowing more reliable boost and fuel efficiency. I bet it would prevent dpf blockages and egr carbon buildup and or blockages.
I didn’t want to sound dumb so I spent the last week trying to figure out what IR meant if not Ingersoll Rand. I thought it was a name for an impact driver I wasn’t aware of
The 1" gun really only performs well with a 12.0 battery. Smaller batteries do not let it perform as well imo.
Why not put masking tape over the cooling jackets when cutting the counter bores ?
Try a forge battery or put a larger battery on the 1 inch impact. And also make sure you’re using genuine Milwaukee batteries as there are fakes out there.
Whoa real packing peanuts! haven't seen them in forever. I hope you dumped them out of the box in the middle of the street on a windy day. haha
I know that keeping to your process is good practice but is there any real consequences of hanging the crank from the main seals if your replacing them before the engine goes in either way?
I’ve heard the term , dropped liner is this more a Cummins thing or other I should do some research
Off topic a little but you are my go to so… I am doing injector seals in a 97 Ford L8501 Dump truck with a 3126. My issue is, this 3126 has the injectors that require me to remove the rockers and I wasn’t aware that there are cups between the pushrod and rockers. I did manage to not drop them but somewhere between my work bench and the truck, I’ve lost 1 of them. So I have 2 questions. 1. What does cat call them in case I have to order? 2. For peace of mind, I ran my bore scope down in the hole and while I didn’t see anything, theoretically, could one of these make it all the way to the pan or if not, how far could it go? Sorry for the long post.
That pistol grip impact was never designed for mechanic work even milwaukee said that is more iron workers etc is more for tight fasteners
The rated torque is significantly higher than the 1/2" so I don't really care what it was designed for, it better put out what the rating is.
@AdeptApe I was highly disappointed when I received the gun and is not what expected I ended up buying the d handle which is better but still won't beat air impact specially doing undercarriage work I maintain a fleet of 120+ pieces of equipment I have used both 1" milwaukee guns for just about anything
Much like lifters rings will just spin around and around in cylinder.
Looks like I'm in the market for a new 1/2" gun. 😲
Link is in the description, it is pretty impressive and I don't even own one.
Can you use a C18 for OTR trucking?
Wait till you hear about summer north of the 49th ...
Is there a New Milwaukee 3/4 yet?
If I find a blue one, 😆
Hi Josh Where can a guy get one those CAT booney hats you had on in the first video
Hello thanks for another great video you do great work! What brand and where did you get your sled gage or depth gage I use an old depth gage but it’s not as easy to get good quality measurements thanks again for the videos keep it up!
It is a Fowler setup, although I use a Monaco one for doing the liner protrusion.
Put a FORGE BATTERY on the Milwaukee it's way better and hits harder
Josh, is there a motor driven counter bore cutter?
There is a drill powered one that I used to use at Cashman Cat, but I don't remember the brand of it.
@@AdeptApeKentmorse, they only sold them for 2 or 3 years
What boot brand are the ones you're wearing. I usually wear keens. Looking for a new boots
Hey Josh, this is Walter from Seattle, I hope to meet you in person one day, maybe you can do a tuneup for me, great video like always, and waiting for email reply from you! 🤝👍
Is the monster ring gap normal?
😎👍
Honesty, i wanna buy a CAT just so i can have you fix it 😂😂😂
what causes block freating
Cat Man🫡
Hey mate do you sell cat 18 password? Cheers
Randy Weaver Country .
Why didn’t you cut it 0.015”?
Smallest Cat shim is a .030.
@@AdeptApeyou're mistaken
Liners, sometimes called Sleeves, are pressed into the Block and is usually referred to as an "Interference fit,"
Howdy! Was wondering what product to purchase for repairing the pitting in the lower liner bores? That liquid steel stuff you use? Let me know if you could Thanks!!
If real bad Quinn dealership Cat, in California has a sleeve that they put in the lower bore to repair the block, The machinist there has done lots and lots of them!
I'm going the cheap route and hoping for the best! Doing an in frame on an old big cam. Thank you though!
what can you warn about a boat with 3208 cats with 2700 hours?
@@mmm365 thanks I definately wont buy that one Vancouver Canada
Tubes between water pump and heads leak fail.
Not bad motors .
that's a horrible deck finish, has this thing been worked on recently? because the liners looked great on the outside.
I had a c7.1 on a generator set that looked very similar to this. The spacer shim/gasket leaked oil at very low hours. I think it had less than 50 hours on it. Had to get the block refinished. Solved the problem.
It is a Cat
😁😁👍👍👍👍
It looks like the block is cracked at 16.51
I noticed that too. Yikes
Took a look, it looks like the block is cracked in 2 different spots.
@@raider762 yeah looks like there’s a crack next to the old oil pan gasket?
16:44