Old but informative Video. I've purchased a budget saw that comes with 24" Bar and chain, mostly for stand up bucking. However, now I understand the clear difference in how the types of chains effect the Saw as well as the cut. I will be keeping a Full Skip chain on the box for those odd Big Trunks that need tackling. Thank you for sharing with the community.
Very good. I grew up on farm ran a homlite made in 50s or so at 14. So 54 years later I'm retired and friends find me a 40 to 50 inch tree. Quite often. So I am ordering a woodland pro skip tooth roll for my long bars. Thank you for showing us that comparison. My clutch will thank you also
I had to go look up chain types, but I know more now. I am looking forward to the rest of the series. Thank you for the video, Josh. Stay safe and stay warm
Hey Sean, thanks for watching and commenting. I guess I should probably include a description of what each chain type is in one of the next videos. It being such a part of everyday life I didn’t even think about folks watching it and not knowing why exactly I was talking about. That’s awesome that you looked it up! I’ve got a three day getaway with my bride this weekend. But I’ll probably have the next video up sometime next week. Take care!
@@LumberjackSmokestack I had never looked into chain before and I have made and sharpened a few in my time. No need to go into great detail except maybe that some are a bit safer for most people than others. I hope the two of you have a great time this weekend! Party it up, Josh. Treat her right.
In Northern California most guy,s use skip chain. As far as square or round goes if you are cutting 3 feet off the ground use square if you are 6" to 12" off the ground in the dirt and gravel use round file. I mostly cut 85% burnt pine with a little oak or redwood or fir.
From Nor Cal myself. Currently living and cutting in Central California. The use full skip round most of my career. But I’ve been a pretty big fan of the square the last couple of years. Easier to clean up a face cut with it if need be. The working corner bites the cut wood better. Thanks for watching
Thanks for watching and commenting. You are spot on with the extra room between the cutters. I worked with a guy from back east and he was used to full comp. But the wood we was used to cutting was much smaller.
Catching up on videos. This was a good one brother, good info! I’m running skip on my 50 cc Dolmar 28” bar. Gonna build a full house chain for it and compare!
Nice video, I also run a full skip chain for cutting oak. I can see you do a little engine work from the degree wheel you have hanging above your workbench. Just put a popup piston in my 455 rancher and matched the stock piston weight she runs pretty rowdy. Just going to throw this out there. When I pulled the old piston out and check the ring Gap it was 3 times what the Gap should have been. Is this normal from the factory?
I’ve never ran nothing but full chisel chain but I cut hardwood only with a 20” bar. Thinking of getting a longer bar and maybe getting a full skip chain for wood too large for my 20” bar.
Skip and full skip usually refer to the same thing. Full comp, has a full complement of cutters, full skip has half as many. And the oddball is semi skip, where it has 2 cutters then a skip then 2 cutter……
There is much confusion about these terms. According to Oregon the Terms are: Standard: One tie strap between each cutter. Right cutter - tie strap - left cutter - tie strap, and so on. Semi-skip: One extra tie strap between each cutter pair. RHC-TS-LHC-TS-TS-RHC-TS-LHC-TS-TS, and so on. Skip: Two tie straps between each cutter. Full-house: No tie straps at all, only cutters. What is called a "Full comp" in this video is a regular standard chain.
I have a 592XP with a 28” bar and a full comp chain and a 395XP with a 32” bar 63 gauge and a full skip chain. I haven’t run the 395 much. I’m figuring since I have 2 different 90cc class chainsaws, that I would put a longer bar on one and try a skip chain. Your thoughts on what you prefer on a 395 XP and why. Thank you.
For me I like the 395xp mostly because of its simplicity. The saw is very basic. Just a standard carb on a classic cylinder. Not a strato saw, no auto tune, nothing that can’t be tuned by a screwdriver in the woods. Not to say it does not have at least one down side. The old school inboard chain tensioner is a pain. But it’s not a deal breaker for me by any means. All that being said. The 592 looks better on paper spec wise. But everyone cuts with what what works for them the best and what you are comfortable with. I’ve been cutting timber 22 years, maybe I’m just old school 😂. Thanks for watching and commenting
@@LumberjackSmokestack thank you very much for your response. I tend to agree with you! I was just able to get the first 592XP in Georgia. It is a wonderful tool. Your description is accurate. The 395 is like an old simple big block muscle car and the 592 like a modern performance car. It’s obvious that you have experience. Mine is a few years. I really would love your opinion on the chains. Thank you again!!
@@TheGuitarRoom in general my chain theory goes something like this. For saws 70cc class and under I will run .50 chain. Full comp on bars under 30” and skip tooth on 30” and 32” bars, round file. On larger saws I almost always run 32” or longer bars and mostly all skip tooth. .063 gauge, if I’m felling I like square ground chain. But if the wood is on the ground or dirty I’ll run a standard 3/8 pitch round file. It tolerates the debris a lot better and is faster to sharpen. Square only cuts faster when it’s razor sharp. I typically run Oregon, Husqvarna or Stihl branded chain. They are all good quality. I’ve run plenty of other chain as well but all the ones I’ve tried seem to be inconsistent. I also like Pferd files as well. This is all based on where and what I cut too. It’s not going to be the same for everyone or all locations. I’m on the west coast. So we have oaks we cut but for the most part it’s big soft woods, cedar, fir, redwood and pine. Not sure if that is what you were looking for but that’s what I’ve got. If you had something else in mind let me know.
@@LumberjackSmokestack thank you so very much. Wow your up early. Although far far less experience, I fully agree. Your information is invaluable to me. I have a 32” bar .063 gauge on my 395 with a Husky skip tooth chain on it currently. I just don’t have a lot of time on it. I can feel that it wants to grab more and feels a little more twitchy and bouncy, so I have been reluctant to plunge cut with it. Again thank you for all of this! I am very grateful. Guitarist/ musician gone arborist. I have a big project coming up in the top end of the Adirondacks in Saranac Lake I a few months or next year depending, so I’m gearing up. Your experience and wisdom are greatly appreciated by me. Thank you!
Chain does not come cutter, cutter, cutter. At least not in any readily available products. There is a link between. Out here standard, full comp and full house are used to mean the same thing. You might be interested in this web page. www.baileysonline.com/pub/media/baileys/pdf/saw-chain-101.pdf
It's always been my experience that the quantity of time spent sharpening a full chisel skip is always a bigger number than the extra time spent cutting with a comp.
Old but informative Video.
I've purchased a budget saw that comes with 24" Bar and chain, mostly for stand up bucking. However, now I understand the clear difference in how the types of chains effect the Saw as well as the cut.
I will be keeping a Full Skip chain on the box for those odd Big Trunks that need tackling.
Thank you for sharing with the community.
Very good. I grew up on farm ran a homlite made in 50s or so at 14. So 54 years later I'm retired and friends find me a 40 to 50 inch tree. Quite often. So I am ordering a woodland pro skip tooth roll for my long bars. Thank you for showing us that comparison. My clutch will thank you also
I’m glad you found it useful
I had to go look up chain types, but I know more now. I am looking forward to the rest of the series. Thank you for the video, Josh. Stay safe and stay warm
Hey Sean, thanks for watching and commenting. I guess I should probably include a description of what each chain type is in one of the next videos. It being such a part of everyday life I didn’t even think about folks watching it and not knowing why exactly I was talking about. That’s awesome that you looked it up! I’ve got a three day getaway with my bride this weekend. But I’ll probably have the next video up sometime next week. Take care!
@@LumberjackSmokestack I had never looked into chain before and I have made and sharpened a few in my time. No need to go into great detail except maybe that some are a bit safer for most people than others. I hope the two of you have a great time this weekend! Party it up, Josh. Treat her right.
In Northern California most guy,s use skip chain. As far as square or round goes if you are cutting 3 feet off the ground use square if you are 6" to 12" off the ground in the dirt and gravel use round file. I mostly cut 85% burnt pine with a little oak or redwood or fir.
From Nor Cal myself. Currently living and cutting in Central California. The use full skip round most of my career. But I’ve been a pretty big fan of the square the last couple of years. Easier to clean up a face cut with it if need be. The working corner bites the cut wood better. Thanks for watching
Very nice comparison, I run full skip full chisel chains mostly. The cutters have more room to clean out making the saw run easier in big wood.
Thanks for watching and commenting. You are spot on with the extra room between the cutters. I worked with a guy from back east and he was used to full comp. But the wood we was used to cutting was much smaller.
Catching up on videos. This was a good one brother, good info! I’m running skip on my 50 cc Dolmar 28” bar. Gonna build a full house chain for it and compare!
Cool be neat to see what you find. I’m gonna do one in some big oak when the snow melts a bit. Have a good one!
Thanks for the video! Now I am sold on buying a skip tooth for my power saw
I’m glad you enjoyed it.
Nice video I like full skip for speed but for small limbs it is a pain. Too grabby it wants to pull it more than cut.
Nice video, I also run a full skip chain for cutting oak. I can see you do a little engine work from the degree wheel you have hanging above your workbench. Just put a popup piston in my 455 rancher and matched the stock piston weight she runs pretty rowdy. Just going to throw this out there. When I pulled the old piston out and check the ring Gap it was 3 times what the Gap should have been. Is this normal from the factory?
460 rancher 24" skip tooth on a Oregon bar can't complain
I’ve never ran nothing but full chisel chain but I cut hardwood only with a 20” bar. Thinking of getting a longer bar and maybe getting a full skip chain for wood too large for my 20” bar.
Give it a shot.
Curious to see your thoughts on the chain brand vs stihl
What's the difference between "full skip" and "skip"? I always though they were the same thing.
Skip and full skip usually refer to the same thing. Full comp, has a full complement of cutters, full skip has half as many. And the oddball is semi skip, where it has 2 cutters then a skip then 2 cutter……
@@LumberjackSmokestack Full skip has 1/3 less cutters than full comp not 1/2 as many.
@@LumberjackSmokestack Semi Skip is kinda like a tweakers teeth. Maybe we should nickname it tweaked chain.
Full skip and skip same same just different name. Semi skip on the other hand is different
There is much confusion about these terms.
According to Oregon the Terms are:
Standard: One tie strap between each cutter. Right cutter - tie strap - left cutter - tie strap, and so on.
Semi-skip: One extra tie strap between each cutter pair. RHC-TS-LHC-TS-TS-RHC-TS-LHC-TS-TS, and so on.
Skip: Two tie straps between each cutter.
Full-house: No tie straps at all, only cutters.
What is called a "Full comp" in this video is a regular standard chain.
I don’t ever run any skip chain but for an average smaller saw in big wood it seems to help.
Faster to sharpen also thanks
I have a 592XP with a 28” bar and a full comp chain and a 395XP with a 32” bar 63 gauge and a full skip chain. I haven’t run the 395 much. I’m figuring since I have 2 different 90cc class chainsaws, that I would put a longer bar on one and try a skip chain. Your thoughts on what you prefer on a 395 XP and why. Thank you.
For me I like the 395xp mostly because of its simplicity. The saw is very basic. Just a standard carb on a classic cylinder. Not a strato saw, no auto tune, nothing that can’t be tuned by a screwdriver in the woods. Not to say it does not have at least one down side. The old school inboard chain tensioner is a pain. But it’s not a deal breaker for me by any means. All that being said. The 592 looks better on paper spec wise. But everyone cuts with what what works for them the best and what you are comfortable with. I’ve been cutting timber 22 years, maybe I’m just old school 😂. Thanks for watching and commenting
@@LumberjackSmokestack thank you very much for your response. I tend to agree with you! I was just able to get the first 592XP in Georgia. It is a wonderful tool. Your description is accurate. The 395 is like an old simple big block muscle car and the 592 like a modern performance car. It’s obvious that you have experience. Mine is a few years. I really would love your opinion on the chains. Thank you again!!
@@TheGuitarRoom in general my chain theory goes something like this. For saws 70cc class and under I will run .50 chain. Full comp on bars under 30” and skip tooth on 30” and 32” bars, round file. On larger saws I almost always run 32” or longer bars and mostly all skip tooth. .063 gauge, if I’m felling I like square ground chain. But if the wood is on the ground or dirty I’ll run a standard 3/8 pitch round file. It tolerates the debris a lot better and is faster to sharpen. Square only cuts faster when it’s razor sharp. I typically run Oregon, Husqvarna or Stihl branded chain. They are all good quality. I’ve run plenty of other chain as well but all the ones I’ve tried seem to be inconsistent. I also like Pferd files as well. This is all based on where and what I cut too. It’s not going to be the same for everyone or all locations. I’m on the west coast. So we have oaks we cut but for the most part it’s big soft woods, cedar, fir, redwood and pine. Not sure if that is what you were looking for but that’s what I’ve got. If you had something else in mind let me know.
@@LumberjackSmokestack thank you so very much. Wow your up early. Although far far less experience, I fully agree. Your information is invaluable to me. I have a 32” bar .063 gauge on my 395 with a Husky skip tooth chain on it currently. I just don’t have a lot of time on it. I can feel that it wants to grab more and feels a little more twitchy and bouncy, so I have been reluctant to plunge cut with it. Again thank you for all of this! I am very grateful. Guitarist/ musician gone arborist.
I have a big project coming up in the top end of the Adirondacks in Saranac Lake I a few months or next year depending, so I’m gearing up. Your experience and wisdom are greatly appreciated by me. Thank you!
what is the difference in the comp chain vs a full skip ?
@@demetriogranados3879 number of cutting teeth
@@LumberjackSmokestack awesome thank you
What make the the bar
nice!
I can appreciate these cookies but I really prefer the chocolate chip ones you bake me. 😉
Full house goes cutter-cutter-cutter-cutter. Full comp goes cutter-link-cutter-link
Chain does not come cutter, cutter, cutter. At least not in any readily available products. There is a link between. Out here standard, full comp and full house are used to mean the same thing. You might be interested in this web page. www.baileysonline.com/pub/media/baileys/pdf/saw-chain-101.pdf
That saw needs ported
That would be fun. But it’s a daily work saw.
It's always been my experience that the quantity of time spent sharpening a full chisel skip is always a bigger number than the extra time spent cutting with a comp.
I know which one is faster to sharpen
Very true
Poor audio
Thanks for the feedback. Too bad that’s you one takeaway from this video.
@@LumberjackSmokestack over all good vid, but the sound is a tad low.
@@fredscheerle7592 different cameras and I’m no editor. Just a timber cutter making some videos.