Wiring Up The Drag and Drive Fuel Tanks
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
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i think this is the first time ive seen a setup like this and it looks like itll work awesome.
IMO its just simple and complex enough to be able to easily troubleshoot etc.
Yeah it’s all right in front of you, plumbing and wiring so if I have an issue it should be in the trunk. So far so good. I would like to go to the track with it before I leave for race week if I can tho.
@@Burndown If you go to Irwindale before you head out of town let me know I'd like to see the Boom run.
@@mikefew4232 it would probably be last minute but I’ll post it if I’m going to test in a Thursday. I usually try to get to the track before it opens so I can make hits before it gets busy.
@Burndown Are you running OE hellcat pumps or clones? Where are you getting them from? Your work is turning out great, thanks for taking us along for the ride.
I have OE TI pumps. WARR sells real pumps and I have bought them all through them. The 525 seems to generate more heat then 450s so depending on your fuel needs you may want to go 450s if you plan on driving around on the pumps.
Beastie Boys, Brass Monkey or Slow and Low?? LOL
Depends on the type of work your trying to accomplish 🤷♂️
@@Burndown 👍 Yeah, Sabotage, wouldn't be a good one to jam to. LOL
@@funfun8095 self sabotage 🤣
Dane, would it be worth the effort to be able to drain the small tank into the big tank? I know you can drain each into a container if you need to, just wondering if another hard line with a valve off the small tank drain directly into the big tank would be useful.
I did think about that and then realized I can just leave the return on the big tank and fire up the race tank and it will return to the drive tank. So I could do that to drain the race tank into the drive tank if I need to.
I would have done the same with the switch. Mil spec/teflon coated wire is awesome that’s what you want to use in tank also.
Yeah good wire is key at this point in the game. Knowing the difference is wild. I always thought the big thick wire was the "Good Stuff" haha. Im still learning. I need to get something to label wires now I think.
Looking good!! Good on you to make time for the family
Family is important! Gotta make time!
The fuel system has turned out great 👍
Thank you! A bit more work then I thought but it tuned out great
That should do the trick!
Yeah I feel good about it
Nice system, if you decide to make the change over to race mode more automatic you could use a tank switch from a Chevy truck with dual tanks that will be controlled by the Holley that flips the switch and enables the dual pumps. I do like the simplicity of your system as a proof of concept.
I have an electric rotary valve for the accumulator I’m going to install. If that seems to work well I may put one on the tank and just switch pumps from the driver seat but we’ll see. It’s one more thing to go out or to have in my tool box that’s something i can’t buy on the road. The valve is pretty fool proof and takes two seconds to turn. We’ll see how lazy I get 🤣
@@Burndown A more automated arrangement, set up as described is certainly useful, while certainly as You state the simple, reliable valve is effective. 🙂
However, a better, improved fuel tank system which also improves with using a small tank through which both are filled, along with reducing any fuel slosh, as during launches, or via other gravitational forces achieves the results better yet, since it also achieves these other dual uses with street driving and race fuel too. 🙂
Your installation with the new fuel filter underneath along with the mechanical fuel pressure meter is well done, placed too.
Dane Paul, You stated previously that You will put an electric fuel pressure sensor in the line, now decided to delay that addition.
have You considered to add the electric sensor, perhaps to the output side, so that both exist with the advantages with having it monitored, visual, usable via ECU-PCM-PCU Holley, recorded in the captured data, visible on the dash screen, along with the ability to check, see, verify by the mechanical meter at the filter input ?
All The Best, Sincerely
You using the small gauge wires inside the tanks that most pumps come with?
Is good wore and it’s short and the fuel helps keep it cool so the thin gauge wires that go the the pump are actually enough for the load. The wires I use to the pumps are mil spec 12 gauge and are also good for the amp load. They look small but they are a proper gauge for the run i believe and are good high quality wire.
@@Burndown thanks for the reply, just gonna run the harness they come with myself then. Have 2 wally 450’s in the small surge tank that matches the lid you used. I really want to figure out a PWM signal for one of the 450’s as I live at elevation in the high desert and don’t want to deal with fuel overheating issues . Read a couple guys used a diode coupled with solid state relay and got reliable results
👍👍
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What brand/spec relays are those?
So funny story… the new Bosch relay I bought was DOA turns out. I have another one one it’s way but it looks like they knock them off now unfortunately. It’s a 75amp Bosch relay
@@Burndown that stinks. I had a flex sensor recently that turned out to be a knock off. It's crazy how much knock off stuff there is out there. Some of it works, but can you trust it?
@@whereisamerica7384 I’ll talk to Warr and see what they stock and probably just do that in the future so I know I get the right parts instead of Amazon. It’s becoming a crapshoot seems like. The relay I bought had over 200 reviews so maybe I just got a bad one I hope
@@whereisamerica7384 @Burndown Amazon has become a distributor of CCP-China products as Costco [a CCP-China import/export company], thus all products they sell are certainly lower quality, including the many fake, phony, false, imitation, misrepresentation along with "knock-off" products manufactured in CCP-China, unless specifically stated as a proper distributor, seller of the primary, manufacture by the manufacture.
Also some of the proper products from electronics, including computers, phones, tablets, etc., perhaps others too which are listed, sold on the Amz site, are older, discontinued models which the manufacture no longer produces nor sells.
Thus, the products they sell should be expected to be as these until and if verified otherwise.
It is very good to Be aware, Be Informed, Be Knowledgeable, BEWARE !! 😲
All the Best, Sincerely 🙂
Congrats to your boy!! That’s awesome
Thank you! He’s awesome
Why not run E all the time?
I run E full time at home in everything I own but when you get out on a drag and drive it’s a lot less common. You end up having to run what’s available and sometimes it’s 85 octane like in Colorado. We usually take back roads so it’s even harder to find.
@@Burndown Have You installed a "Flex-Fuel" sensor yet, so the ECU-ECM-PCM [Holley] tuning will adjust accordingly, appropriately for normal street driving along with for best performance on the race track ?
Do You use proper E-85/C-85, 85% ethanol, for the drag racing or higher ethanol from 88-90-95-98 % ethanol ?
Also, as You know, this RM Race Week 1.0 2024 is not in the mountains or Colorado as previous years, rather in lower elevation as they did RW 2.0 2021 including Oklahoma, Texas. Though am not aware of the availability with fuel station E-85 within those States and areas; have You checked for fuel stations along the routes between the included race tracks ?
@@newtonfirefly3584 Yea I have Newton. It’s actually a high flow radium unit from WARR. It’s in the return line behind the tanks so it’s hard to see form the back of the car. It’s working great.
@@Burndown Am glad that You have a "flex-fuel" sensor 😄
Do You have Your Holley set to use the sensor, measure, record the ethanol content, also to automatically adjust the tune, fuel requirements, fuel and ignition timing ?
🧐
Though You may have stated previously, please tell me which fuel injectors with which flow capability, capacity do You have for racing ?
All The Best, Sincerely
What's up!?
Trying to get the old beater ready to race
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