TMG: Testing Turk 8mm "hot" ammo...
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Patreon support: / themilsurpguy
PS...I'd like to do an update. The "HIGH" 3100+fps velocities we got on the chrony are wrong. I tested this ammo later with my new labradar and it was getting ~3000 at the muzzle. The actual muzzle blast was affecting my chrony at 13-15ft....I suspect others may have gotten inflated numbers as well.
Hey guys...in this video we are going to do a quick test to see how Turk 7.92x57mm ammo shoots and is it safe to use and identify any issues with it.
There will be a follow up vid in the future with more numbers and comparison using labradar!
Thanks!
Don't forget to like and subscribe!!
I fired a couple thousand rounds of the Turk ‘37-‘39 8mm in my YUGO M48s. I never had any real problems other than an occasional split case neck. It kicked pretty hard but I considered it “Recoil Therapy”. It was great cheap ammo.
I just blew thru 150 rounds of that shit with my K98. What a hoot, i love that kick!
Great video, that nuke cracked me up!
Haven't had any issues with the Turk ammo. Bought 14,000 rds back in the late 90s. Down to my last 20 bandoleers. Doesn't kick as much as Portuguese ammo does!
Very helpful video, I just bought 350 rds of 40s dated Turk ammo.
3200 feet = 975 meter for second, that is impressive
Thank you, going to try this ammo on my fn-49. Hopefully no mushroom cloud.
Hopefully you haven't done that, this ammo is Not Semi auto safe.
My only 8mm is a Gewehr 88. Even though the Turks got hold of it back in the day and probably shot a lot of this ammo through it, I think I'll still hold off. Honestly, I don't even like running modern factory loads through it.
I was under the impression that modern 8mm Mauser ammo is not as hot as the surplus stuff... Manufactuers like PPU and Steller/Bellot keep the powder down because they know it’s being used in old guns.
@@CT-Woods you're not wrong, and I have ran a handfull of S&B 8mm through it, but I did that just so I could have the brass. I plan to hand load some light loads for it. As light as I can without risking squibs. I slugged the bore at .319 so I need to find either .321 projectiles or dies to cast my own.
I just don't trust the metallurgy on these old gals, especially since the Turks probably pushed MG ammo through these.
The Gew 88 has a slightly smaller bore diameter than the more modern k98k and variants. You will have pressure spikes if you shoot the newer 8mm mauser ammo in your Gew 88. You can make your own ammo, and size the bullet down smaller, or you can pull apart new factory ammo and down size the projectile to the correct bore diameter of your rifle and have a much safer shooting experience. Good luck.
I've shot Turk ammo from the 30s and 40s that was "Hot" through 1944 Steyr K98k and Yugo M48 and it's no hotter then match loads loaded to 3000fps...all depending on weight really.
I've had split necks on Turk ammo one every twenty rounds, the same with Yugo steel case.
Wow! You obviously know a lot about reloading, but very little about statistics and quality control. If you really wanted to help people, you would have tried to give them some rules of thumb as to what Turkish ammo is most likely to caused problems and what Turkish is not likely to cause problems. You would’ve given people rules of thumb about which Turkish lots of ammunition, age of ammunition manufacture of ammunition has had problems and which is not. With what you did here I don’t think you really gave anyone much useful information.
Uh considering ian from forgoten weapons knows of 13 machine guns that blew up from turk ammo i don't think it would be wise to run in a semi
Turk ammo is good for its price but you are right on the brass i had tons of split necks in all my bolt guns but fires and is somewhat accurate
Doesn't split necks only reduce the pressure and shouldn't cause a chamber explosion
@@jason200912 your probably thinking of case head separation
@@joelopezjl28 case head is rim ripping off during extraction. split neck just leaks all the pressure out right
@@jason200912 no? What? No man no. Look it up. Idk where you're getting all that wrong info from
@@joelopezjl28 i did a googled it. case head is when the rim rips off. neck is when there's a split in the neck of the cartridge.
i pass on the turk stuff man. lots of hang fires
mine is 100% fire no problem.
2022 & i got a bunch of turk 8mm for $22 each bandolier had %100 shoot
Oof, these ww2 era rounds will give modern level IIIa plates a run for its money
No joke
But, but,....Gun jesus said...... Know what you are doing with what you have before hand in every respect. Good video.
And Ian said what? Just not use in Semi_auto/Self Loading...Or use for reloading...Nothing which disagrees with this video.
Really interesting and superb video, sir, I have a little more of a better understanding about Turk ammo. About 20 years ago I fired probably less than 50 Turk rounds out of my G43 ( qve45 with original gas components and springs ) …and ended up losing my extractor. Perhaps it was coincidental and was just bound to happen. I still have that G43 and I’ve been re-enacting with it for over 20 years , firing a lot of blanks through that time. It’s been surprisingly quite reliable ….but as the years go by , I get more and more paranoid about shooting ANYTHING out of it.
Does it still have the original springs in it? Those are most likely so worn out that they're not mitigating any recoil.
It may well work under ideal circumstances, but you're forgetting likelihood of failure - things like poor storage practices, bad metallurgy, and inconsistent manufacturing.
the brittle brass is the issue..thats why we put it in new brass.
Had a 1915 Gewehr 98 and we shot Turkish 8mm i had and man did the bolt STICK!! Was 1947 or 1949 dated, i thought the ammo was hot but i just learned something new awesome!
The cratering he mentions is a sign that it is hot. The brass may be brittle as well but this video doesn't prove that it's not hot. The fact he says that there is any cratering of the primer proves it is over pressure.
@@pyro4squirrel actually it wasn't cratering per se... it was the slightest hint of a crater and on that one round. This could have been because of an enlarged firing pin hole or the reduced case capacity. It was not a "typical" crater as normally seen with milsurp turk ammo.
So basically Turk is OK....but....brass cannot be re-loaded..
I have turk ammo from 1947 I have a 1948 Turkish mouser. I did not have any problems with it at first but after sometime it became difficult to extract the cases. The brass looked good, same as it always had. I ended up using a 12 gauge wire bore brush with a drill and cleaned up the chamber of potting and rust. It now functions perfectly. The chamber just seems to get neglected and gets sticky.
@@ctripps1224 it is okay for a bolt gun but you will see a higher rate of premature wear. It is overloaded with terrible brass that needs annealment
Will the Romanian or Yugoslavian 8mm ammo work well with the k kales?
It'll work fine. Some rifles shoot different ammo better or worse than other brands. Try them all to see what your rifle likes.
So your proof is that the cases are in generally the same area? Thats not hard evidence
Actually if you had watched the video you would have noticed the bolt speed was the same...THAT is the hard evidence
I was getting split necks when fifing this stuff. I pulled them down and just saved the bullets only. Which are not the greatest projectiles either. Did you also notice the rear sight leaf was flipping up on every shot. Never noticed that myself but that could be from excessive recoil.
had few of the turk ammo not chamber but other wise it shot good.not the best in the world but you what you pay for when it was cheap.interesting,,thank for posting...
150 at 3200 fps. 4.6 KJ !!!
With less recoil than a 30-06 hunting rifle!
Excellent informational video. Thank you for posting.
Whether this ammo is the same as the german "S" bullet ww1 era ammo ?
Its the same
@@themilsurpguy8758 @The Milsurp Guy @The Milsurp Guy the Turk is not the same but a very close clone of S patrone. The 1918 German S patrone I tested was less concave at the lead base than the Turkish ammo... And didn't have the case cut into the bullets like the Turk did. The German S patrone shot at 2911 fps average from my 1916 Spandau Gew.98 (ammo aged well) ... Unfortunately I I didn't test this in my K98... the Turkish ammo I tested, I think 1942 date, shot well into the 3,200 fps mark... Close to 3,300 fps. It was a dramatic increase in recoil... Needless to say I didn't shoot but 1 clip of it... I'll be pulling the bullets and loading them to around 2800 fps. Even if it's a Mauser 98 action why risk it? I prefer to keep my face intact and it's well know that many a guns have been destroyed due to this ammo. Are you willing to shoot it in your gew 43 with original parts? Kinda pulling the wool over people's eyes with the mod gas system.
@@JuanelMecanico_1 I think it's silly to say " Kinda pulling the wool over people's eyes with the mod gas system." When EVERYONE knows you don't shoot G43s with unmodified gas systems. But since the only issue with Turk ammo is the brass being brittle I would shoot it in an unmodified G43 since it's port pressure is very similar to Yugo sS ball and other milsurp loads..
Remember the velocity isn't the problem...the brass failing IS...
Does the turk ammo crack stocks
Only if your stock is already cracked or you have a poorly/improperly fitted stock. Many of the old Russian Capture 98ks sat in grease/oil for decades. That leeched into the recoil lug bedding and has made many of them soft there. That allows the recoil lug to "set back" and that allows the receiver to shift in the stock and cracking it.
@@themilsurpguy8758 would that make one split longways down the pistol grip area? my 1903 turk has a crack like this.
@@frigglebiscuit7484 yes that would cause it. Stocks need replaced if there is setback or oil soaked bedding areas.
Yes, Both Turk and Greek 8mm ammo can break stocks, especially on older rifles. Its generally good ammo, only i recommend pulling apart the Turk and Greek ammo and reducing the powder charge by 4 grains. Try that and see if it helps.
Great video!!! Just became a subscriber!
You didn’t shoot for groups did you?
Do you find the lack of scope rail on that gun limiting of its potential?
Also, you have a load recipe you can share?
A friend said you had a G43 vid with Turk 8mm ? I can't seem to find it
and would like to see it. Do you still own that G43 did you have any
issues or did it run smooth ? TIA
Still have it...runs fine...it's in the video. You just can't use turk ammo as-is.... MUST be in new brass.
@@themilsurpguy8758 why?
@@corvetteZ3r why what?
@@themilsurpguy8758 why must it be in new brass? Bought some of this stuff yesterday just curious
@@corvetteZ3r watch the video....the brass is brittle and can fail.
👍
If you like your rifle and dont want to break the stock at the wrist, you should pull all Turkish and Greek 8mm ammo and reduce the powder charge by 4 grains. This makes a much more plesant shooting load / experience, and greatly reduces the risk of stock breakage.
Ian "Gun Jesus" McCollum warned in his FW video NOT to use Turkish 8mm on a semi-auto or even full-auto gun. According to him, you're lucky the G43 did not blow up in your face.
Well...I guess you could say he's wrong...
What was the weight of the Yugo ammo you tested on the G43?
@@DNchap1417 Standard Yugo ball which is a copy of the WW2 German s.S. round 196grn FMJ.
Tell you the truth, I was surprised by the velocity of the G43. It was practically the same as the K98k on the Yugo 196. With Turkish 150gr it was even faster than an M1A or FAL with 147gr 308 rounds.
Reason Ian said not to use Turkish 8mm in semi or full automatic guns is not many Turkish ammunition were stored well which creates over pressure one way of knowing a Turkish round has that issue is cratering
I think with these older rifles, the best thing to do is to reload gallery rounds - rounds that are around the minimum powder charge advised (and not below) and leave the full power stuff on the sideline. This reduces the chances of the old war ammo failing and damaging the rifle, and it also results in a more enjoyable shooting experience. I have several old war rifles. Some look really good and others have seen some action. We never know, without testing, what the metal has degraded to over time and use.
metal doesn't degrade over time....
How in the hell would it degrade with time
I have some 1950s turkish 200gr that splits the cases. Its not the brass because I pulled the bullets reloaded with Win 748 powder and everything is fine. The ammo is way to hot with turkish loading.
its the brass as shown in the video. Turk powder and projectiles in NEW brass don't have any pressure signs. The Turkish load is to spec and meets those numbers when testing in original brass and in when moved to new brass. If it was "hot" then the velocity would be excessive but it isn't.
You are welcome to send me some of the 50's 200grn ammo for testing if you want.