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Thanks for the spreadsheet.

So I now have several theories about how this myth got started. Theory 1. Owners were taking apart their Garands and noticed a bend in the oprod . But they didn’t know it was supposed to have a slight bend to it. Then they just assumed it was broken and blamed commercial ammo. Theory 2: They had an actual issue, they noticed the oprod had a slight bend in it, as it’s supposed too, and assumed that was what was causing the problem. Theory 3: The oprod was bent out of spec, but it was bent at some point during the disassembly and reassembly of the rifle. The owner blamed the ammo instead of his mistake. Theory 4: The owner was using homemade reloads that were loaded way out of spec, but not wanting to look like a fool, blames it on commercial ammo.

Uh considering ian from forgoten weapons knows of 13 machine guns that blew up from turk ammo i don't think it would be wise to run in a semi

Wow! You obviously know a lot about reloading, but very little about statistics and quality control. If you really wanted to help people, you would have tried to give them some rules of thumb as to what Turkish ammo is most likely to caused problems and what Turkish is not likely to cause problems. You would’ve given people rules of thumb about which Turkish lots of ammunition, age of ammunition manufacture of ammunition has had problems and which is not. With what you did here I don’t think you really gave anyone much useful information.

Long story short started shooting Garands in the early 70's in National Match, I own 4 of them now. I also handload but when I can find commercial 30/06 at a good price I pick it up and I shoot it all. I have Orion 7 gauge and inspect my M1's every 7-8 years or so depending on the round count in a particular rifle. None of my rifles have shown any damage from the rounds. Yes, there has been wear, gas tubes and recoil springs mostly but now all my Garands also have the Orion 7 spring. A while back I equipped them with GarandGear gas plugs and found the rifles to cycle and function much smoother. The plugs are hollowed out much like the ones used on the M14 and what they do is cushion the initial pressure spike as the bullet passes the gas port because of the increased volume. Just cheap insurance. Here's the data and direct pressure readings using a transducer fitted to stock and GarandGear plugs with info on quite a few brands of commercial and military Ball ammo. www.garandgear.com/the-m1-garand-and-commercial-ammunition/

My grandpa served in Germany in WW2 and he said that they used ap almost exclusively as apposed to ball for turning cover into swiss cheese 😊

So if I have a Venezuelan fn what is required to safely shoot it? A two piece firing pin and spring?

watching this video AFTER my FN49 blew up...

You need a high-speed camera with milliseconds being recorded as the video plays to actually measure bolt speed.

I use 43gr of Imr or hodge 4895 for a 150 fmjbt for over 30 years. I never had a problem . 168 match load 45.5 gr of h 4895 just perfect .

where do you find the 7.7 ammo for one i have my dads arisaka type 99

You seem to be pretty knowledgeable about the Garand. My question is do you have an extra power recoil spring in that rifle? Many of your viewers are probably shooting rifles with old worn springs. I think the Garand Collector's Assoc said the pressures should be in the 50,000 psi category whereas a lot of the commercial ammo is loaded to 60,000 psi. Also, the CMP issued a warning about shooting bullets over 173 grs. The two areas of concern are the Op rod which you pointed out and the other is the bolt slamming into the rear of the receiver. You can always replace an op rod, but not the receiver. Just saying!

FULL load military 30-06 can be fired in the Garand. BUT..research the WHY Garand ammo was made vs full load ammo. It had something to do with the operation of the gases. True Garand ammo had a milder load. NOTE.....M1 BALL......and M2 BALL...Research the reason.

If a 30-06 is 180grain the the velocity is 2910fps or 180 grain and velocity is 2790fps its good to go in a well greesesed up m1 rifle?

Thanks for demystifying! I've been told, back in the day, that Garands were intentionally overgassed to ensure reliable function. In your view, is there benefit to an adjustable gas system (e.g. Schuster Mfg.) say, to prolong the service life?

Oops, sorry Ooh Rah, thought i'd resubbed all my subs.

Knew that was coming…. Cheeky monkey…

I’ve been shooting commercial ammo in mine for 20 years

I fired a couple thousand rounds of the Turk ‘37-‘39 8mm in my YUGO M48s. I never had any real problems other than an occasional split case neck. It kicked pretty hard but I considered it “Recoil Therapy”. It was great cheap ammo.

47.5 grains of 4895 with a 168 gr Sierra Match. Used this in competition for years.

If you like your rifle and dont want to break the stock at the wrist, you should pull all Turkish and Greek 8mm ammo and reduce the powder charge by 4 grains. This makes a much more plesant shooting load / experience, and greatly reduces the risk of stock breakage.

Yea, I've shot a lot of 3006 rounds commercial grade, never any problems.

Great info thanks!

My opinion, I think from what I've read, the m1906 round was the culprit for blowing up " low serial number 1903s" at the 1920s National matches .they were dipping the ammo in grease thinking it would help with fowling. Wonder if that followed into the Garand, makes sense to deplete old stocks first.

The only scary,hot surplus round I shot out of my 44 unmolested Winchester was Genevelot 49 . It kicked like a mule. Only shot 3 rounds, scary hot. It is a 150 gr all copper and lead corrosive primer round made in France. It had a new op-rod spring at the time.

Why was the Round called "BALL"?

From my experience, a lot of “safety” information we see now is for legal reasons, as opposed to actual safety. Thank you for this testing. My wife gave me a “new” M1 Garand from CMP last Christmas, and an adjustable gas plug at the same time. I didn’t know any better. I do enjoy the ability to tune it, but I don’t believe it was necessary.

Read Garand commercial ammo testing, got a 17min lecture. Good but... not a test.

I suggest that people would believe this video more if you had some manufacture reps putting their companies money/liability on the line AND some engineering PhDs explaining what the limits of the Garand are and how commercial ammo is within the limits of the M1 Garand. You just don't have enough or really any credibility in a hoodie without any credentials proving that you know what your saying is correct.

Haven't had any issues with the Turk ammo. Bought 14,000 rds back in the late 90s. Down to my last 20 bandoleers. Doesn't kick as much as Portuguese ammo does!

I’ve seen the data sheet for the Garand. It is rated for any round that generates less then 50,000 psi.

Thanx for doing the testing for us... Back in 1989 I picked up a Garand for my Dad (Korean War vet) ... this was his deer rifle until ~ 2015 when he gave up hunting... Dad fed it a diet of Remington 180gr high velocity soft points ~200 rounds of this down the barrel in the time he had the rifle... The Garand is now in my vault and the op rod is fine and functional. Dad of course knew very well how to maintain the rifle ... you might say it was drilled into him...

Commercial ammo has soft primers seated level with the case head and if the firing pin dents the primer as the bolt closes and before the bolt locks up this could cause an out of battery explosion. That's why you should only use military hard primers seated below the head of the case so the firing pin can't set off the primer before the bolt locks up completely.

why does no one make a G4 molle magazine pouch?

Hey MG: Very interesting, thanks. I reload my ammo for my M1 rifle. One factor you left out of your experiement, powder burn rate. As I understand it, the US Army settled on IMR 4895 for its M2 cartridge. That's a relatively fast powder compared to others used in commercial ammo. The slower the powder's burn rate, the higher the port pressure. Among your vary large sample, that sort of averages our and op rod speed is mostly proportional to bullet velocity. - Z

With the rifle having its gas port VERY close to the muzzle and te Op-rod being fairly lightweight, the pressure curve at the port would be a narrow spike. The port gas acts pretty much like a hammer..The trick with the op-rod spring is that it is always under compression, moving or at rest.The idea is to NOT run it into "spring-bind" territory, BUT it does slow the initial rearward speed of the bolt and rod. This is VITAL as a "tired" or otherwise "out of spec" spring will result in the bolt hitting the rear of the receiver with excessive violence. . This ultimately results in CRACKED rear sections of the receiver. A couple of new springs is a lot simpler to deal with than the paperwork to "write-off" a serial-numbered receiver. When I was servicing M-60 MGs, it was NORMAL practice to replace EVERY coil spring on an annual basis. Even the tiny ones that drive the pressure levers in the feed cover AND the extractor and ejector springs. These are VERY prone tot water ingress and subsequent corrosion. Rust KILLS springs. When in doubt, swap 'em out! This is why the ONLY reference for a "stock' Garand M-1 is the original service-issue workshop manual(s). Armourers were (are!) required to do thorough component inspections, including measuring the "relaxed" length of springs and then, using carefully-calibrated equipment, measure the "load" required to haul a spring, like the op-rod spring, through its nominal travel. There is a LOT more to "gun-plumbing" than a quick "visual" and a squirt of oil.

I know the tachometer on my truck has a red line but if i rev the engine past it it most likely will not blow up but if i do it enough it probably will ! They add a red line for a reason.

I don't know either way but I do know that 40 bucks for a grand gear gas plug is money well spent for pice of mind.

Good info, thanks

Great video

I've shot Turk ammo from the 30s and 40s that was "Hot" through 1944 Steyr K98k and Yugo M48 and it's no hotter then match loads loaded to 3000fps...all depending on weight really. I've had split necks on Turk ammo one every twenty rounds, the same with Yugo steel case.

Oof, these ww2 era rounds will give modern level IIIa plates a run for its money

My M1 is in 308 win , I shoot most of the time with a 147 gr military style 7.62 like ggg but for hunting I have other brand like : _Hornady American 165 gr 2700 fps _sellie bellot 180 gr spce 2400 fps _geco 170gr 2590fps What fo you think to use these just a few time for hunting with a good condition M1 ?? Thanks for your work . It would be Nice to see a gentleman debat about this with you and Ian

Great demo of the different mags and pistol fits. Thanks!

Really interesting and I accept the conclusion but I'm still afraid hahahaha year of believing in the myth is hard to override

I enjoyed adjusting the variable gas cylinder plug. Suster? One click in until bolt cycled and picked up new round then locked it with outer screw

I've heard both sides and whether it's a gimmick or not is irrelevant to me. $40 for an adjustable gas plug is cheap peace of mind.

Thanks! Ive owned one for 20 yrs,,.wasnt aware of this. Just pulled my Egyptian down, 2 piece pin and a spring thats about a coil and a half short of covering the complete firing pin. Way cool and great info!! Much obliged! Now Ive got reason to take her out and shoot her again. She hasnt been shot in 5 yrs. Time to blow out the dust bunnies

Four years on and to this newbie your video is still relevant. I've heard both sides of the argument.

Do you know if an HK USP will fit in that holster? Specifically a USP 45