If these are the things your putting into practice I can only imagine the ideas in your mind, love the videos I cannot wait to see this ps13 rip the tar off mondello this year 🙌
Good idea not easy setup but if anyone will figure it out you will ... agree i could never under stand people going to no sevo for drifting there alot time and effort to get right ...i had same trouble while back with turbo car looked into electric but then i found a alternator on a van in scarp yard that had vacuum pump bolted to back i put pulley on it and made bracket and run it of where the aircon was with a one way vacuum valve from a toyota and it worked out well but depends how long you use brakes for everybody different
Lets hope so... the servo system gives you good brakes but inconsistent feel when left foot braking. Good thinking with the diesel alternator, a lot of those setups require a oil supply i think
I've been involved in developing the electronic booster systems, there is a lot going on inside the electronics on those units that will be based on the donor car including things like brake temperature prediction and compensation which will be very different on your application. I have thought about retro fitting a system to my project car a few times but think it would be difficult to make it work without the ability to remap the unit for different ramp rates etc.
i think a better solution would be a completely decoupled brake system... like having just an electrical connection between the driver brake wish/pedal actuation and the electromechanical break caliper. I know that this is already beeing worked on and will be in the market "soon". ;)
I have cause to rethink the brakes on one of my project cars, because they are 60 years old, and they are shit. Obviously my requirements aren't even slightly the same as yours, but thank you for your insights; it has given me some ideas for rethinking and rationalising my setup and what I should *not* be doing as well. Cheers!
Very different, I’ve driven brake by wire with a pedal pressure simulator pulled out of a Toyota, if the electrical dies all you have is a hand break. It’s adjustable with some feedback but certainly not at your level. Tried to go with a standby emergency power system out of some military designs and it works but it still makes me nervous. This will be interesting to see how it goes. I did find a us company that builds high output alternators called powerbasterds. They made me a 250 amp alternator that puts out 125 amps at idle, all new parts, no rebuilds no cores 250 amps at 1200 rpm, If they can do it I’m certain that you can but a powder coated unit was $550 us and as been flawless, I’ve used them in several builds including a audio comp car where we put in two of them that were output balanced by them. We were using a corvette ls setup but these are in military, comp and race cars. Might be a solution for you. It would put out 400 amps for hours on show day without problems.
Thanks for the reply. This system should be just brake assist so still has a physical connection so i cant completely lose brakes. I try to use powermaster alternators in all the cars we build ive had zero issues with them. I'm hoping my current 160-180amp alternator will be ok with this extra load
Feel your pain with pedal boxes and balance bars . 🙄 Think the electric car conversion girls run an electric vacuum pump or something similar and their quite common on some modern vehicles and inexpensive. Tesla and porches run a similar system to what you have come up with too as well as a few others , Considered a similar system and a tweaked Audi BMW ABS system in our race car but bottled it and went for a pedal box / balance bar and ABS as a safe option . 🙄. With your cracked block my initial gut instinct was weak block design. Second was different thermal expansion rate / stretch of the longer studs compared to the shorter ones Causing more stress to one side . Third and especially if it’s not a common fault with that type block , hydraulic effect of oil below the stud on assembly or possibly studs screwed to tight in the block . One last thought on the handbrake , Can you not use the clutch pedal to operate the handbrake too ? Once the clutch is depressed fully a pressure relief valve diverts to the rear calipers. That way it would leave your right hand free for gear changes and wave at James Dean 😂 . May be wrong here but I’m sure 6R4’s used a similar system to disengage the centre diff while applying the handbrake allowing to still power out of the bend and also not let the engine big down . Maybe WRC’s use this but it’s probably all electronic and super expensive but no doubt it could be done mechanically. Like the no BS , plain and simple content far more down to earth.
Yes electric cars have come up with the electronic servo and some diesels before that, hopefully it works good Pedal box and really good calipers would be prob the best solution but i like the idea of this electric system and doing it on a budget a different way Ive thought long and hard about why the blocked cracked but doesnt change anything just got to move on With the slipping of the clutch we do while drifting i wouldnt like to introduce a locking effect i dont think i could get used to it. I have thought of pulling the handbrake breaking the drive by pressing the release bearing also but never decided to look into it further. I will use a paddle shift in another car so i can change gear from the steering wheel Yes the rally cars unlock the diff for handbraking but not applicable for us really Thank you
Have you tried a Mercedes ml vacuum pump? I did that for a customer with an additional vacuum tank, same as the Quattro it also took plenum vacuum, seemed to work nicely but I’ve not run the car in anger myself.
Might be a dumb question, but can't you run a hydroboost unit as you're running an electronic steering pump anyway? Or is that too much load on the pump, and takes away your steering feel?
Sorry thought i responded to this. Not a dumb question. I would not do anything that could possibly affect the steering feel as the steering is the most important part of the car arguably. I am more sure that adding electrical load wont affect the steering even though more amps will be drawn but the electrical system should keep up with it
You would have much more demand on brakes than we would. Pads are no issue. Its the servo or no servo issue im trying to solve. A lot of drift cars come with good multipot brakes from the factory so thats what people use. OF course you could throw thousands worth of AP brakes and solve the problem but 99% of people wont. Im trying to get what 99% of people use to work well and consistently
Авто/Мото
If these are the things your putting into practice I can only imagine the ideas in your mind, love the videos I cannot wait to see this ps13 rip the tar off mondello this year 🙌
I have at least 3 more cars designed in my head at all times lol
These short insight vidoes are great! Fair play!!
Glad to hear it!
Always interesting, always tinkering, developing, improving and greatly explaining.
Glad to see more videos.
Thank You.
Thank you very much
Love seeing the work you do, can’t beat a bit of brilliant engineering explained👌🏼
Thank you very much
Vids are great! Keep em coming!
Thank you
Great vid as always, always striving for better
Appreciate it!
Coolest drift builds on thee planet! 🍻
Glad you like them!
This is wild. Always pushing forward 😮
Thats the plan
@Group-D can't wait to see you kill it this year. Good luck boss man!!!
Love that u do shit difront always thinking outside the box
Thank you
Good idea not easy setup but if anyone will figure it out you will ... agree i could never under stand people going to no sevo for drifting there alot time and effort to get right ...i had same trouble while back with turbo car looked into electric but then i found a alternator on a van in scarp yard that had vacuum pump bolted to back i put pulley on it and made bracket and run it of where the aircon was with a one way vacuum valve from a toyota and it worked out well but depends how long you use brakes for everybody different
Lets hope so... the servo system gives you good brakes but inconsistent feel when left foot braking. Good thinking with the diesel alternator, a lot of those setups require a oil supply i think
Bet @driftgames Dave will have this system fitted by you soon. On his drift car.
Not so sure
I've been involved in developing the electronic booster systems, there is a lot going on inside the electronics on those units that will be based on the donor car including things like brake temperature prediction and compensation which will be very different on your application. I have thought about retro fitting a system to my project car a few times but think it would be difficult to make it work without the ability to remap the unit for different ramp rates etc.
I hear you. I have seen this kind of variability on electric power steering systems. First thing to do is run them flat out and see how it goes
i think a better solution would be a completely decoupled brake system... like having just an electrical connection between the driver brake wish/pedal actuation and the electromechanical break caliper.
I know that this is already beeing worked on and will be in the market "soon". ;)
I dont like the sound of that.... bit past my abilities
I have cause to rethink the brakes on one of my project cars, because they are 60 years old, and they are shit. Obviously my requirements aren't even slightly the same as yours, but thank you for your insights; it has given me some ideas for rethinking and rationalising my setup and what I should *not* be doing as well. Cheers!
No Problem, If you go electric make sure your alternator can keep up
Very different, I’ve driven brake by wire with a pedal pressure simulator pulled out of a Toyota, if the electrical dies all you have is a hand break. It’s adjustable with some feedback but certainly not at your level. Tried to go with a standby emergency power system out of some military designs and it works but it still makes me nervous. This will be interesting to see how it goes. I did find a us company that builds high output alternators called powerbasterds. They made me a 250 amp alternator that puts out 125 amps at idle, all new parts, no rebuilds no cores 250 amps at 1200 rpm, If they can do it I’m certain that you can but a powder coated unit was $550 us and as been flawless, I’ve used them in several builds including a audio comp car where we put in two of them that were output balanced by them. We were using a corvette ls setup but these are in military, comp and race cars. Might be a solution for you. It would put out 400 amps for hours on show day without problems.
Thanks for the reply. This system should be just brake assist so still has a physical connection so i cant completely lose brakes. I try to use powermaster alternators in all the cars we build ive had zero issues with them. I'm hoping my current 160-180amp alternator will be ok with this extra load
Feel your pain with pedal boxes and balance bars . 🙄
Think the electric car conversion girls run an electric vacuum pump or something similar and their quite common on some modern vehicles and inexpensive.
Tesla and porches run a similar system to what you have come up with too as well as a few others ,
Considered a similar system and a tweaked Audi BMW ABS system in our race car but bottled it and went for a pedal box / balance bar and ABS as a safe option . 🙄.
With your cracked block my initial gut instinct was weak block design.
Second was different thermal expansion rate / stretch of the longer studs compared to the shorter ones
Causing more stress to one side .
Third and especially if it’s not a common fault with that type block , hydraulic effect of oil below the stud on assembly or possibly studs screwed to tight in the block .
One last thought on the handbrake ,
Can you not use the clutch pedal to operate the handbrake too ?
Once the clutch is depressed fully a pressure relief valve diverts to the rear calipers. That way it would leave your right hand free for gear changes and wave at James Dean 😂 .
May be wrong here but I’m sure 6R4’s used a similar system to disengage the centre diff while applying the handbrake allowing to still power out of the bend and also not let the engine big down . Maybe WRC’s use this but it’s probably all electronic and super expensive but no doubt it could be done mechanically.
Like the no BS , plain and simple content far more down to earth.
Yes electric cars have come up with the electronic servo and some diesels before that, hopefully it works good
Pedal box and really good calipers would be prob the best solution but i like the idea of this electric system and doing it on a budget a different way
Ive thought long and hard about why the blocked cracked but doesnt change anything just got to move on
With the slipping of the clutch we do while drifting i wouldnt like to introduce a locking effect i dont think i could get used to it. I have thought of pulling the handbrake breaking the drive by pressing the release bearing also but never decided to look into it further. I will use a paddle shift in another car so i can change gear from the steering wheel
Yes the rally cars unlock the diff for handbraking but not applicable for us really
Thank you
Have you tried a Mercedes ml vacuum pump? I did that for a customer with an additional vacuum tank, same as the Quattro it also took plenum vacuum, seemed to work nicely but I’ve not run the car in anger myself.
Also enjoying the videos Darren 👍
Thanks Ben. Nothing mechanical will keep a level of consistency with the amount of left food breaking going on in my opinion
Is there any way to preheat the caliper or disc. Or will heat be gone by time you get a run
That sounds very complex cant say ive ever seen anything like that. We are normally trying not to introduce heat
Might be a dumb question, but can't you run a hydroboost unit as you're running an electronic steering pump anyway? Or is that too much load on the pump, and takes away your steering feel?
Sorry thought i responded to this. Not a dumb question. I would not do anything that could possibly affect the steering feel as the steering is the most important part of the car arguably. I am more sure that adding electrical load wont affect the steering even though more amps will be drawn but the electrical system should keep up with it
Iv got a pedal box and I agree it’s shit! 😂😂
Prob 90% or more setups ive seen are shit
Do you sell any Group-D merchandise?
Yes group-d.ie/collections/merch
❤️ "Promosm"
What does that mean?
"Willwood" is your problem, 😋 I know a dam good brake pad that are brilliant we use them on the tarmac rally cars
You would have much more demand on brakes than we would. Pads are no issue. Its the servo or no servo issue im trying to solve. A lot of drift cars come with good multipot brakes from the factory so thats what people use. OF course you could throw thousands worth of AP brakes and solve the problem but 99% of people wont. Im trying to get what 99% of people use to work well and consistently