I liked your idea of removing the armoflex where your wood ribs went, haven’t seen it done that way before. I believe many who leave wild comments, have never built anything themselves…. ever! Solid work my friend!
A slightly higher floor that's not attached. it will give a bit of a swampy feel when walking if its directly on the armaflex. Thats way I wanted the floor to be on the beems and have them secure on to the metal, to make the floor fixed.
Hello, I think sound deadner is necessary when you travel and live in a van to reduce noise levels. Did you put installation on the floor before you secured the plywood floor to the wood batons? Good job.
Did you mean if i put on glue? If that's the case, no. I only use glue between the metal and the beams, not on the beams and the plywood. I used screws to secure the plywood to the beams
@@OneRoad92 oh i meant on the van floor after you use deadner. Did you cover the deadner with insulation and then put your wooden batons on top of it. To secure your plywood floor to the wooden batons. I wasn't sure if you placed insulation on top of the deadner or you just put wooden batons on top of the deader and then the plywood flooring.
I first put on the deadening and the insulation on top of that. I then cut the insulation where the wooden beams needed to bee, so it could be glued to the metal directly. I did it, so I could get as much insulation under the wooden beams
“This stuff, once you glue it on, it’s not coming off.” Then you take it off with a chisel which probably scratched the floor and being conducive to rushing. What?
Yes, I was careful when removing it whit the chisel and I had no deep scratshes going throu the paint and I did put adhesive on there as well. But your right might seams weird thing to do 😅
In my opinion you did everything wrong essentially. You’re going to get condescension between the arm Alex and the bottom on the van. Anytime you glue stuff into place you’re gluing yourself into trouble.
I'd love for you to elaborate on why that's the case. Throughout all of my research, putting any insulated material against the sheet metal and leaving no air gaps is just what you want to do to accommodate condensation.
@@OneRoad92 this method eliminaters replcement and inspection. As mointure will inevinetly come into play as warm air from the van will get into place where the glued on insolation will have loosened.
In this case I dont think that it will be of any consern, as you will se in upcoming episods. But I will ofcours report back if it is. Thank you for your comment 🙂
Would a simple 3/4" plywood with a layer of thermozite glued to it work? Sitting directly on the corrugations with no battens. Bolted down. Motovan build so heavy weight on parts of the floor. In hot humid Texas so interior rust is more of a concern than insulation effectiveness.
Armaflex is used to insulate the cabinets and doors of rooftop AC units and works very well. Basically same thickness of sheet metal and exposed to the elements. Unless I’m missing something I disagree with you.
I liked your idea of removing the armoflex where your wood ribs went, haven’t seen it done that way before.
I believe many who leave wild comments, have never built anything themselves…. ever!
Solid work my friend!
Banging Tunes!!! Good job 😎
Thank you! 😀
New Subscriber from AZ, Nice to find your channel!
Very clever idea to attach wooden beams that way to the floor. Did you glued them to the floor?
Thank you! Yes I did glue them to the floor and so fare, they haven't come loose.
Inte mycket rätt i min värld!
Love the video! Very interested in using this idea as headroom is a luxury for us in our van. How have you found it?
Thank you! Do you mean how I find the Armaflex?
Good job, I think this shall work out just fine. I´m thinking to do something alike. What glue did you use for the beams?
Common construction glue
I like this idea very much for the floor. But what would be the drawback of not removing the armaflex where the board attach to the floor?
A slightly higher floor that's not attached. it will give a bit of a swampy feel when walking if its directly on the armaflex. Thats way I wanted the floor to be on the beems and have them secure on to the metal, to make the floor fixed.
Surley if you squash it with a roller you will stop its effectiveness? Just wipe over it with a cloth works
No it won't, the ide is to add Weight to the metal nothing else
Why have sound deading materials if you’re going to insolate later?
Did you use 12 mm ply for the floor ? thanks
Yes I did
Hello,
I think sound deadner is necessary when you travel and live in a van to reduce noise levels.
Did you put installation on the floor before you secured the plywood floor to the wood batons?
Good job.
Did you mean if i put on glue? If that's the case, no. I only use glue between the metal and the beams, not on the beams and the plywood. I used screws to secure the plywood to the beams
@@OneRoad92 oh i meant on the van floor after you use deadner.
Did you cover the deadner with insulation and then put your wooden batons on top of it.
To secure your plywood floor to the wooden batons.
I wasn't sure if you placed insulation on top of the deadner or you just put wooden batons on top of the deader and then the plywood flooring.
I first put on the deadening and the insulation on top of that. I then cut the insulation where the wooden beams needed to bee, so it could be glued to the metal directly. I did it, so I could get as much insulation under the wooden beams
@@OneRoad92 oh that makes,sense thank you.
where did you bought armaflex?
“This stuff, once you glue it on, it’s not coming off.” Then you take it off with a chisel which probably scratched the floor and being conducive to rushing. What?
Yes, I was careful when removing it whit the chisel and I had no deep scratshes going throu the paint and I did put adhesive on there as well. But your right might seams weird thing to do 😅
Great. Now the only places that will let noise through are the ones you didn't cover.
If you're referring to sound deadening, you don't need full coverage. It's designed to make the metal heavier and denser to prevent rattling
You mean the ones in the middle that he mentioned in his video 😅
In my opinion you did everything wrong essentially. You’re going to get condescension between the arm Alex and the bottom on the van. Anytime you glue stuff into place you’re gluing yourself into trouble.
I'd love for you to elaborate on why that's the case. Throughout all of my research, putting any insulated material against the sheet metal and leaving no air gaps is just what you want to do to accommodate condensation.
@@OneRoad92 this method eliminaters replcement and inspection. As mointure will inevinetly come into play as warm air from the van will get into place where the glued on insolation will have loosened.
In this case I dont think that it will be of any consern, as you will se in upcoming episods. But I will ofcours report back if it is. Thank you for your comment 🙂
@@Garo48yes and no, condensation will occur somewhere, what matters is how you deal with it, allowing condensate to move beneath the floor is one way
Would a simple 3/4" plywood with a layer of thermozite glued to it work? Sitting directly on the corrugations with no battens. Bolted down. Motovan build so heavy weight on parts of the floor. In hot humid Texas so interior rust is more of a concern than insulation effectiveness.
Basically so far you’ve done everything exactly how NOT to go about insulating a floor!!
Armaflex is used to insulate the cabinets and doors of rooftop AC units and works very well. Basically same thickness of sheet metal and exposed to the elements. Unless I’m missing something I disagree with you.
Nice comment. Very helpful.
thats your view -- but it makes no sence. How would you insulate a foor then ?
Interested in his option also.