6 Features to Check Before Buying a Jointer | Woodworking
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- Опубликовано: 25 июл 2024
- A woodworking jointer is rarely the first tool purchased by a woodworker and many woodworkers can get by without one. But if you want to work with rough-sawn lumber, then a jointer is an important tool to have in your workshop.
What should you consider when you're shopping for a woodworking jointer? Your budget is an obvious consideration, but there are also six features or options that are important to consider, including the board capacity, the cutterhead style, the fence, the type of infeed and outfeed table lifts, if it has casters or a mobile base, and the drive belt tensioning system. In this video, Chris Marshall goes over the pros and cons of different options available. Jointers make it easy to flatten a face or square two edges of a board.
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You should have MANY, MANY more subscribers; high quality video! Thank you for taking the time to provide the videos and content.
Excellent overview of jointers. I'm making my first purchase and your video was an excellent overview. Thanks!
I used a 6 inch for many years but probably like most I always wished I had an 8. Recently moved houses and sold all my big shop tools…looking forward to getting an 8 inch whenever I start the shop again
Great video! Learned a little more about jointers. I have been considering one of the table top models but with this new information I might just save my money a little longer for one like you have presented here. Thank you
You look like a man who take great care of his equipments. May I buy a used jointer from you for a great price 😁
Thank you so much for this video!
excellent and helpful overview, thank you for this video
That was extremely informative. Thanks!
Great, informative video. Thanks.
Hi Chris, great video! Very informative and helpful.
Excellent video, thanks.
Thank you. Always good advise.
Thank you, very informative
brilliant video, thank you
Excellent explanation thank you trying to buy a used jointer problem is I knew nothing about them before I came across this video
An excellent job!
Great informative video
Great video!
Cool, thank you!
Good thoughts Chris. I love my very old 12" jointer, but certainly could not afford to replace it. Some day I will replace the cutter head and Babbit bearings with a Helix cutter head and ball bearings.
Very informative vid thanks for all you all do.
Thankyou!
That was helpful!
Thanks Chris.
Thanks for the nice video bud
brilliant
Wish I saw this before I wasted $200 on an old jointer. I should have saved money and bought a new jointer. Helical cutter-head is a must for my next jointer, adjusting knives is such a pain and waste of the little time I have in the shop. Thanks for the video
Thank you 😊
Awesomeness
This is a great review. Thank you. Anyone have opinions on the Rikon?
Thanks
I am seriously considering buying a jointer! I work with old reclaimed wood and never is anything straight on this wood! It makes it very difficult to get anything lined up straight. But I think a jointer might help out with this problem I have!
Thanks for sharing the great info you put out! Very helpful
You should do it. Would be a game changer for you. You'd be very happy with a Wahuda 8" or 10" bench top jointer.
Great video , didn’t know about anything except the straight blade cutters . I have a 6 inch jointer because I have a 14 inch planer .
Chris - I've watched a number of your videos and this may be my favorite one. I just bought some rough cut - and old - walnut off a guy from Craigslist. I put a board that I didn't think was cupped through my planer and - found out why I need a jointer. I'm not ready to spend $1,000+ on a full floor jointer and the Craftsman and Rikon benchtop models look to be decent for a home woodworking shop. What are your thoughts on benchtop jointers and do you have any favorites? Thanks.
It's now a bit more than 2 years since you made this video. It is excellent. But, you need to look at another group of jointers for us that don't have the money and/or the room for a full sized floor jointer. How about looking at the table top jointers? These are usually just as wide, but have much shorter tables. I think I'm going to be buying the Wahuda 8" jointer at the start of woodworking season this year. The 1st thing I'll do is build a stand for it that has extensions for the tables.
There is a 20" option out there also. Felder makes a 20" jointer/planer combination. It is both jointer and quickly converts to a 20" plainer. It is an animal weighing about 2000ibs. with 10hp motor, and seriously expensive, 20k if you want one of these.
You failed to mention the option of Tersa knives. You can change them in a fraction of the time taken by straight or spiral head.
Is there a good second hand market on these?
Great information to consider, specially for someone who is new to woodworking like me who is in the market for a jointer. I just picked up a Dewalt DW735 planer and I am deciding on buying a new vs used jointer. There's lots of used ones for sale on kijiji - Craigslist etc.
What is your position on buying new or used when starting out? When buying used, other than what you mentioned in your video, anything else to look for and any brands to stay away from? Thanks
Condition and rust or pitted tables that have rusted. Take your favorite straight edge.
Buying a used tool can be a great solution when you are getting started (or even if you have been at this a long time). Used tools have a risk of being faulty with no warrantee to protect the buyer. When buying used tools check for worn belts and loose pulleys. Electric switches should work well and not spark or smell. Check to see how the beds align and if the fence is straight, out of twist and can be locked into position effectively. Most jointers have beds made of cast iron. They should be free of cracks and smooth. Some discoloration is fine, but rough rust will cause frustration when you try to use it. Listen to the motor when you are starting the machine, it should not labor to start spinning. Listen to the machine when it is running to see if you can hear bearings starting to whine.
Something else to consider is power consumption - As far as I have seen, there are no jointers on the market (Other than benchtops and very small 6" stand models) that operate on 110v. For those of us without 220v in the shop, the options are severely limited
Grizzly sells 6inch standing models that run on 110v
@@mattw7272 Correct, small 6" only stand models :)
How hard it's it to install 220 in your shop???
@@mattmatt222333 In my case, about $3000 hard.
@@nickkropat8857 I installed mine for less than $100.
I can't wait till I can afford to put an 8 inch jointer in my shop.
Peter O'Brien affirm is a life saver
It appears that you are promoting Powermatic jointers? At one time Powermatic was to be top of the line. most high school shops bought them. I have heard that in recent years they are not turning out the best quality equipment because Jet bought them out. Can you relate to this? I have a 6" Powermatic Artisan jointer that I have had for over 25 years that I am looking to replace. It's been a good one but I'm looking to upgrade
@UCFEloCVbFWdXRlU2DxI1R1Q
I do have a couple of questions about the helical knives. In order to rotate a knife does the screw have to come completely out or can you just loosen and turn? Secondly. where does the screw fall if you drop it in the machine? Will it create a problem and hurt the machine in any way?
I have yet to find a 10” jointer…
At 4:30 you talk about the fence not having twist. How do you check that?
If a fence has a twist, it will register as square to the bed on one section of the fence, but will read out of square on another section of the fence. Use a good quality square to test this out.
WoodworkersJournal thank you for the response. This was a very informative video
So what can you do about it if you find that your fence isn't square?
I assume that you are asking what to do if the fence has a twist. You will need to replace the fence.
@@WoodworkersJournal Yes that's what I was asking. Thanks for clarifying. Thought there may be a tip/trick you knew about to fix it some other way.
@@alexreid4131 you could have a machine shop surface grind it back to square but that would probably end up being to experience
The audio was weird at the end.
Where’s the benchtops?
Is there a specific reason why these 'American-style' jointers have limited width? Most jointer planer combos tend to have at least 10 and more often 12 inch capacity. And those are not even that much more expensive.
That is a great question and the answer may be lost in the annals of time. Your inference that a jointer with a bed as wide as a planner would be very useful is well taken. As with any machine used in a shop, considerations such as cost and footprint or space taken up are big determiners of how something is made for sale. Also, most home shop tools are derived from more robust (larger and heavier) commercial machines. The first home shop products were made much smaller, likely to reduce cost. Perhaps that trend just considered. With that said, planner/jointer combo machines are gaining popularity for exactly the point you make.
Possible tip.
On a straight blade cutter head don’t put all the blades in parallel.
Angle one blade a fraction down on one end and the next blade a fraction down on the other and the next parallel
Then when you feed do so slow enough to ensure each blade has rotated at least three times on the one spot.
This should reduce chip out and make shorter chips that don’t clog the dust extraction system.
"As the cast iron continues to cure" uh what?
Read the Amazon reviews on the Powermatic (1610082 PJ-882HH 8-Inch Parallelogram Jointer with Helical Cutterhead). Apparently, if the two planes are not coplanar and need adjustment, you are in for a hell of a time - the "adjustment mechanism [for the outfeed table] is extremely coarse". Hard pass.
MondoRockable The parallelogram design of the Powermatic is a pain to adjust the beds to be co-planar, but with patience, it can be done. There are 4 cams on each bed. Total of 8 adjustment cams to make the 2 beds co-planer. I have adjusted mine since I got it, and has never moved out of alignment. Once everything is adjusted, I never have to adjust the outfeed table, hence the smaller (shorter handle), I only need to adjust the infeed table for depth of cut whenever needed. The other design of jointers (bed wedge, dovetail ways) can only be adjusted to be coplaner if out of alignment, is by adding shims to the dovetail ways. Just a thought for those interested in buying a jointer. Also note that, with straight knives, you can make rabet cuts with the blade guard off, not so with the carbide segment cutter heads.
Is it normal to make the "t" silent when pronouncing "jointer"?
Regionally in the US, many accents drop the "t" sound. I'm from the midwest. The way I say join sounds distinct from joint, but I don't really say the t sound in joint. Instead, the whole word is a bit shorter than if I were saying join, particularly the "n" sound. I only really say the t sound in joint if it's plural. Joints get's the full t treatment.
One important decision he did not address is price.
Price is up to you. Whatever one can afford.
Why? I mean, it seems like a scam.
What about extending the surface of the work area yourself?
I dont believe any of this. Someone should probably send me a jointer so I can test this out....
Lol
Hi, great video !
I'm from Denmark, Europe, and I've just bought a Metabo HC 260 C DNB, 10 inch (the 400 V - 2.8 kW, or 3.8 HP version) and I'm very happy with it.
I know it's in a completely different price class as the ones you've shown... a lot cheaper and way less heavy and sturdy.
It's only about 85 kilos.
I would've loved to have a helical cutter, but this will do just fine for me.
It was about 1200 dollars (8.500 Danish kroners), and the step up to a similar machine with a helical cutter would make it almost twice the price. Metabo do not offer any of their machines with a helical cutter, but I could order a cutter from the US. This would set me back about 1200 dollars, postal packaging, freight and taxes included... so exactly the same result.
With my weekend use of the machine, I don't think it's worth the extra money 🙂
That said... who wouldn't love to have a Hammer or Felder A3 with a helical cutter?, lol ;-)
... oh, and the 'protection-thing' you have in the US just sliding away as you push the wood through... I just love it.
Our Europe versions (of the same machine models) sport a weird contraption you have to push the wood _under_ and kind of slide your hand over, to push the wood through. Really not practical. It's so annoying it actually makes you remove the safety guard altogether to get real work done, which completely destroys the safety factor.
That really sucks.