Updated LED Lights video: ruclips.net/video/MjNsenbZpAY/видео.html I have received several comments on leaving the original electrical box. I left the metal boxes in for 2 reasons. First, there are additional wires in all of those boxes, and I do not know what they are powering. Second, and most importantly, the wires are all running through fixed metal conduit. By removing the boxes, there would be nothing to keep the metal conduit from moving around freely and in some spots, they had enough movement to drop through the ceiling. I cannot remove the metal conduit without destroying the entire ceiling, so I chose to leave the conduit and boxes in place. For those who are just watching this video and have not seen my other videos, this project is being done in my privately owned warehouse that is not used for business purposes. Lastly, I will acknowledge I made some mistakes in this video, but that is the nature of DIY projects. I’m NOT A PROFESSIONAL. I would highly recommend watching other videos on how to do this in order to learn further.
This is one of the best how to vids I've seen and with cheap alternatives so I dont need extra saws only contractors would need. Don't mind the nerd haters, this was great
@@thediygrunt I work with contractors all day. And it's exactly that BS, forcing ppl to pay their marked up prices. The DIY way is exactly the content that's needed, not some Nazi contractor lecturing ppl on mundane details
I came to the comments to basically ask a question that you answered here - sometimes I am tempted to leave in extraneous wires because I might need them in the future (like at 6:55 in your video), but I know that I don’t actually want any extraneous wires just sitting there bleeding electricity … I was going to ask if this could become a fire hazard. To which we all know the answer is: ‘it could’ … So I especially like the plan to keep the metal box, especially as there is room for it to stay in the ceiling area. Nice video.
Just a heads up, any wiring entering the black junction box for the LEDs needs to have a bushing around it to protect it where you removed the knockout. The edges of that knockout hole are really sharp and very easily score the wires causing a short. There are plastic bushings that you can install retroactively without having to disconnect everything. Good video though.
Super helpful! This is the exact light kit I'd bought myself and your info about how to handle wiring for a light in a multi-light situation helped answer a question I had run into. It was also helpful to see that just because the joist is right above the drywall doesn't mean I need to shift where the hole will be. I used 1/2" plastic knockout bushings to protect the wires - about 50 cents each. Thanks so much!
Semper Fi my brother. Good job. FYI, you need to put a connector in the hole before you place the wires in the box, this prevents insulation on wire from being scraped and short out. No problem, we all are just learning. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the detailed video. A couple of things I'd note - someone already mentioned. bushing for the bare metal hole to prevent possible cutting of insulation by the punch out. One other thing I've run into with old house wiring: People run neutral white from the switch to the lights because it is easy if you have a bunch of 12 or 14/2. They're supposed to wrap the ends with black tape to show it is power - they don't seem to. I would test the wires in the cieling box, by running and ohm meter between the black and whites with the wall switch on. (CIRCUIT OFF AT THEBreaker BOX!). If you get a closed circuit (O-ish ohms) between a black and white - that white is the powered switch hot. You can double test by switching the wall switch on and off and watch the resistance change. Wrap the hot white in black electrical tape, and thank the previous electrician for being a putz.
Thanks for taking the time to make the video. A lot of people are doing this renovation, they like the look of flush mounted lights. Which I think is just a fad now 😂. I just have two problems with doing this. The light output is not the greatest for home use since it’s a down light and there is no baffle. Which may lead to having installing more lighting. Second, these are throwaway led fixtures. In case the light fails, which it can, you need to replace the entire unit. Which may require a complete re-wire if you can’t replace with the same fixture. Not the easiest for most people to do when it happens. I’d rather install the proper led bulbs in existing fixtures. Bulbs are much easer to replace. Plus you can always change the led wattage by changing the existing led bulb.
These have quick connectors so if the led fails, which is less likely compared to standard bulbs, you buy the replacement waffle and quick connect it. That's the entire purpose of why they're simpler. I do agree it feels weird not just replacement bulb. I'd also say if a person doesn't feel comfortable wiring these, they'd probably just replace the bulb, or hire someone to instal a more traditional alternate fixture in which they can just replace the bulb. It's just a other option. I'm installing these in my kitchen where I have one of those large horizontal bars that is very 90s and it it's failing.
Thank you for the video. I think you did an excellent job. I just recently had my house built and installed all the wafer lights my self. We all make mistakes and that is how we learn. Keep up the good work.
Just had the same situation in a new condo for my brother in-law. All electrical cabling is BX going into electrical boxes. Brother-in-law had purchased recessed lights with plastic electrical boxes. I had him buy ones that have metal boxes. When there was 1 or 2 incoming wires into the existing electrical box, I removed the box and had the wires fed through bushings (made for BX cabling) into the metal box that came with the recessed light and did all my connections there. There was one box that had 3 wires going in. That was too many wires to fit in the little metal box of the fixture so I left the box in the ceiling, added a pigtail using bx wiring from the original box and then put a round cover to close the box. Then put the pigtail into the new fixture box and terminated it. It was important in my case to use metal box because I needed to maintain a bonded connection on bx jacket all the way back to the panel. If I used plastic boxes that come with some of the fixtures, I would of broken the bond have ungrounded jacketed BX cable down the line. Very dangerous. I could of possibly used a Y bushing but not sure if it's legal to have 7 conductors going through a 1/2inch knockout. The metal boxes with the new fixtures did come with plastic bushings. They would of been ok if I were using romex which is not the case. You should definitely put a cover on the opened boxes and put bushings on your knockouts. I would also use full romex between the existing box and your fixture box. The added layer of jacket gives extra protection to the conductors.
@T K Several people have commented about the box cover and knockouts. One guy even went as far as to throw in some extreme accusations, so I appreciate the way you went about commenting on the mistakes I made in the video. I'm considering doing another video where I show the install process again and address these mistakes with the proper corrections. I know I made a mistake and I'm willing to admit to it as I did in my pinned comment on this video.
Thanks for this video.. normally don’t comment but this was what I was looking for.. and after reading the comments I know to add bushings.. “A” video..
Nice but I would have protected the junction box cutout of the LED fixture with some sort of plastic attachment into the box to protect the wire over time.. Small detail but overall makes total sense.
Well, I never thought I would say it, but these pancakes make boob lights look stylish! But I have used pancakes and they are fantastic for utlility and price. They are in my basement and garage. I am thinking of putting a couple of closets. ✅✅ Please note that these are NOT recessed. You can get canless LEDs that are truly recessed. Recessed means you the lens/diffuser is up above (recessed) beyond the level of the ceiling. These pancakes are a flush mount that requires cutting the drywall. The reason for a truly recessed light is you are not supposed to be able to see the glare of the surface of the light, but the light comes into in reflects throughout your space. These new pancakes are very useful, but they are ugly as sin for your living areas whre they look like UFOs on your ceiling.
The existing junction box above the ceiling needs to have a cover. You can't just use the individual wires out of the existing box. Romex (even a short piece) needs to be run from the junction box to the led driver, which additionally needs romex connectors. Thank you for your military service.
Quick question: It looks like you left the original metal box in the ceiling. Doesn’t code require that you remove that box and run back to the shielded cable into the new wire box with a bushing?
I did leave the box and yes code wants what you said. They ran the cables through metal conduit. Some of the conduit has enough movement to drop through the ceiling without the box to secure it. So I left the box to keep the conduit attached to it, since I can't attach the metal conduit to the new wire box or remove the conduit without tearing the place apart.They have slim LEDs that can hook up to the standard electrical box which is what I should have bought for this situation and saved these for an area where I want to add lights. I will have to go back and fix my mistake.
If you are replacing an existing working light that is connected to 3 way switches with a new light, then all you need to do is wire it the same way it is currently wired. Any wire that connects to the current light will connect to the respective location on the Ultra Slim Led Lights.
Great video, my friend. I have an old kitchen fixture like you took down, however, mine has two light sockets. When I take it down, will there be one set of wires for the LED flush mounted light?
Look like beginning electrician doing that, need remove the all metal box and attach the cable with special bushing to new box for safety, but thanks for sharing
Lights do not require a ground wire to work. In fact most older homes will not have ground wires for the lights so if you do not have one you can just make the rest of the connections like normal the light will work.
These new lights are nice, but just remember that they direct light down. The so called "old" fixtures that hang below the ceiling spread the light around the room, lighting the room much better. Something that must be considered before making the switch.
Used this video and the comments for assistance. One thing tho….one of the existing fixtures has two of each wire plus three grounds. I believe bc it’s a relay to the next fixture. The canless assembly only has two open slots for each wire therefore I don’t know how to remedy. I tried putting two into one but wouldn’t fit. Thanks for assistance
It sounds like you need to use a pig tail. A pig tail is a third independent wire which wraps around 2 two wires in order to allow you to hook up just one to the fixture. This allows the power to still travel down the line to the next device. This does require having extra wire on hand of the proper gauge (wire can be expensive). Push-In Wire Connectors are another option (my preference when I have solid wire). They can be bought in several different sizes. If the fixture you are trying to install has one of these already, you can choose to cut it off and strip the wire to allow it to hook up to a larger connector. Stranded wire can be difficult to use in a push in connector especially if it is a smaller gauge.
Yes you will have to just pull down, just do so gently. My best tip is to pull it down on one "side" and find one of the two spring clips. Then focus on pulling down at that one clip that will give you enough room to get your fingers in and pull the clip back to free it then you can easily get the other side free at that point and without damaging drywall. If the drywall is already damaged and starting to crumble in an area then try to avoid having the clip in that area when installed so the removal will be less likely to cause more damage. I hope this explanation makes sense and helps.
You look like a very nice young man and you are getting things done but, you made some electrical errors that you could correct. I did electrical work 20 years ago, so I am not up on the current NEC requirements. Also some areas require wire to be in metal conduit or metal clad cables (MC Cables) even when the NEC does not. The conduits could have been run when the building was built. Then the room finished below them later. You should ask an Electrician in your area, how this should be done and if the LED lights you have are ok. I don't know what is above the room. Could pest get to the wires? I noticed that there were Exit lights and an AC at an inside wall. The other wires could be for them. The junction box in the ceiling was metal with 2 conduits coming into it. (1.) All power electrical connections need to be made in an approved junction box, and the box must be covered. Some locations require metal conduits and boxes. ** This is because bad electrical connections cause heat, sometimes enough heat to melt copper wires and cause a fire. (2.) Any wires or cables entering a metal box must be from a conduit or protected by an approved connector. ** Cables entering the box need to be protected where they enter so they do not get cut by the sharp edges of the knock-out hole and short out. The video shows that individual wires not in a cable were run from the open face of the existing junction box through the open knock-out of the new LED included box. The wires were run not in a cable or a conduit. YOU COULD HAVE: (1.) Installed a large surface mounted light at the box location like a Flourescent light. It would provide better diffused light, not just down light. (2.) There could be a new MC cable and connectors or flexible metal conduit run from the current box location to the LED light junction box. The current box would need to be big enough for all the wires and have a cover installed. I suggested MC because I don't know if Romex (non-metalic wire) is allowed in your area.
@Duyen Chau Technically, the light would function with just the neutral and hot. Ground wires are important for safety purposes so I personally cannot recommend neglecting the ground. I would highly recommend asking a certified electrician or at least researching a way to ground the lights in another manner since you are lacking the standard ground wire.
It will probably go out of style then come back into style. From what I have seen in homes built in the 70s they were pretty common in hallways and near mantles to spotlight a area. But you look at houses built in the 2000s and they disappear and its boob lights everywhere. I think they are making a come back because the "Modern Style" is a flush, clean, simple look. Every new house on the market seems to have flush/recessed lights and the entire house in a white/grey/black color scheme which probably will go out of style in 10-15 years.
It doesn’t matter, you’re the owner so go with what you like. These led are a lot better than boring dome lights & easy to install. Everything changes in time. Who knows we might go back to burnin candles 😂
Question.....the mousetrap-springs that hold the light against the ceiling. Some of mine don't hold the light real tight against the ceiling surface....so there is a noticeable gap. How to fix this ???
@Wil Ferch I had the same issue. Usually, it was caused because they were getting caught on something. Typically, they were hitting the 2x4 stud, power cable, or the electrical box. I found installing one mousetrap spring at a time in a spot where it held tight, and I could verify it was clear of obstructions, and then doing the opposite one worked best, rather than trying to put both in at the same time as the instructions say to. If this doesn’t work or is not the cause of your problem, you could try putting in a shim for the spring to fall on. A piece of drywall or small piece of wood might work to help it pull the light tighter into the hole. Out of the 6 I have installed, 2 or 3 still ended up with a small gap. I have also noticed this is a common issue with this style light in other houses I have been in.
@@thediygrunt ...thanks for the courteous and quick reply. In my case I also think the hole diameter that was cut ( by "others") was a tad too large. I think the unit fits better when it's also a snug fit against the cut hole. A foam-type wedge against the hole diameter in (say) 4 places arranged in 90 degree increments...may help.
Hard to tell was the new fixture electric box metal? If so I didn't see a bond ground. If it didn't have one, one needs installed for safety. If the wires become nicked etc it can make you the ground if you touch it. That also why you need to install at least a plastic plug in the knockout to protect the wires. Not trying to tear you down just safety steps that need followed. The DYI need to do it the correct way or hire it done. Its not worth your house or someone's life to save a few dollars. Other then that you gave good instructions.
They are 800 lumens. If you cannot find the lumen output of your bulbs then they are equal to a 65 watt light bulb while only using 12 watts. They have 5 different color settings and they are also dimmable if you are using a dimmable light switch with them.
I can see the problem with the old fixture, especially with new LED bulbs that can be very harsh when viewed directly, but the new one has the opposite problem, with the light aimed straight down, casting a circle of light on the floor, and it's fairly ugly, in my opinion (as are can lights). Short of the cost of installing cove lighting, I'd prefer a fixture that extends maybe an inch down from the ceiling, aiming most of the light straight out at the tops of the walls, but not at the eyes of those walking in. One cheap way to get that effect would be to get one of those fixtures with a suspended dish-like shade and lightly spray metallic paint on the inside surface of the shade, that could even be done with your old fixture if the area near the top were masked off to let the light out.
I purposefully wanted a light that would only shine down and not onto the ceiling. For me, it was to hide my rather crappy drywall compounding job on the ceiling. So, a flat white paint on the ceiling combined with the lights helped to hide all my imperfections. I do agree they are rather harsh on the eyes if you look at them directly, but that plays to my advantage of no one looking at my ceiling very long. Thankfully, this is a warehouse so being a little rough looking is acceptable.
How did you Unscrew the junction box… mine doesn’t seem possible to remove without cutting the plastic junction box from below. Screws are on the outside into the joist.
@Sean I had metal boxes screwed into the joist that went into the direct center of the box into a joist above them. Sounds like you have the plastic boxes nailed into the joist to the side of it at an angle? If they are nailed in then you can pry them out with a claw hammer, pliers, and a crowbar. It can help to cut a larger hole in the drywall if you need the extra work space. If they are screwed in, and you are unable to reach the heads, then you will be forced to cut the drywall. If your lights can fit without messing with your original junction box, then simply leave it and run the wires to the new box that came with the lights (if you bought the same style I did). I only messed with my metal boxes because they prevented the lights from mounting.
@@thediygrunt Hey appreciate the reply, yea the screws are unfortunately inaccessible, and prying it will damage the drywall. I was wondering if my best solution is to just use an oscillator tool to cut the plastic junction box in half.
@Sean Cutting the box is probably your best bet if you are set on removing the box without damaging the drywall. I don't know if you have the space, but you might be able to simply take a hammer to the plastic box to break it. Then you might be able to cut the screws off once the broken plastic is out of the way.
Overall, a decent video showing how to install an overhead LED lamp. However, you need update the video showing the correct way to wire installing romex connectors and rewiring the junction box.
Not supposed to have an open box without a cover - if something ever shorted a spark could start the strapping or joist on fire. Good thing is that hole is simple to access. Second - you needed a wire clamp in that knockout hole - you have live conductors rubbing against the sharp edge of that hole.
I took the cover off the old light and put in an 1.00 led bulb, took 1 minute and i save a bunch of money and no work. Plus those led lights don't last as they say and are not very bright.
If you are asking if the light was 100 dollars, no it was not. I bought two, 4 packs, so 8 lights total I think it was just under 100 so I rounded up. Considering I bought these months ago they are probably 100 dollars total now with the prices increases.
![Stromae, Pomme - “Ma Meilleure Ennemie” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1F3OGIFnW1k/mqdefault.jpg)
Updated LED Lights video: ruclips.net/video/MjNsenbZpAY/видео.html
I have received several comments on leaving the original electrical box. I left the metal boxes in for 2 reasons. First, there are additional wires in all of those boxes, and I do not know what they are powering. Second, and most importantly, the wires are all running through fixed metal conduit. By removing the boxes, there would be nothing to keep the metal conduit from moving around freely and in some spots, they had enough movement to drop through the ceiling. I cannot remove the metal conduit without destroying the entire ceiling, so I chose to leave the conduit and boxes in place. For those who are just watching this video and have not seen my other videos, this project is being done in my privately owned warehouse that is not used for business purposes. Lastly, I will acknowledge I made some mistakes in this video, but that is the nature of DIY projects. I’m NOT A PROFESSIONAL. I would highly recommend watching other videos on how to do this in order to learn further.
This is one of the best how to vids I've seen and with cheap alternatives so I dont need extra saws only contractors would need. Don't mind the nerd haters, this was great
@hollywood dc Thank you! I greatly appreciate the support.
@@thediygrunt I work with contractors all day. And it's exactly that BS, forcing ppl to pay their marked up prices. The DIY way is exactly the content that's needed, not some Nazi contractor lecturing ppl on mundane details
I came to the comments to basically ask a question that you answered here - sometimes I am tempted to leave in extraneous wires because I might need them in the future (like at 6:55 in your video), but I know that I don’t actually want any extraneous wires just sitting there bleeding electricity … I was going to ask if this could become a fire hazard. To which we all know the answer is: ‘it could’ …
So I especially like the plan to keep the metal box, especially as there is room for it to stay in the ceiling area.
Nice video.
Just a heads up, any wiring entering the black junction box for the LEDs needs to have a bushing around it to protect it where you removed the knockout. The edges of that knockout hole are really sharp and very easily score the wires causing a short. There are plastic bushings that you can install retroactively without having to disconnect everything. Good video though.
Amr Aemr, you are correct but non-metalic sheathed cable needs to enter the box and be secured.
Do you have a name?
Yeah, the plastic bushings should have came with the lights. That's why i won't buy them..!!
@@pearlperlitavenegas2023plastic electrical grommets
Super helpful! This is the exact light kit I'd bought myself and your info about how to handle wiring for a light in a multi-light situation helped answer a question I had run into. It was also helpful to see that just because the joist is right above the drywall doesn't mean I need to shift where the hole will be. I used 1/2" plastic knockout bushings to protect the wires - about 50 cents each. Thanks so much!
Semper Fi my brother. Good job. FYI, you need to put a connector in the hole before you place the wires in the box, this prevents insulation on wire from being scraped and short out. No problem, we all are just learning. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the detailed video. A couple of things I'd note - someone already mentioned. bushing for the bare metal hole to prevent possible cutting of insulation by the punch out. One other thing I've run into with old house wiring: People run neutral white from the switch to the lights because it is easy if you have a bunch of 12 or 14/2. They're supposed to wrap the ends with black tape to show it is power - they don't seem to.
I would test the wires in the cieling box, by running and ohm meter between the black and whites with the wall switch on. (CIRCUIT OFF AT THEBreaker BOX!). If you get a closed circuit (O-ish ohms) between a black and white - that white is the powered switch hot. You can double test by switching the wall switch on and off and watch the resistance change. Wrap the hot white in black electrical tape, and thank the previous electrician for being a putz.
I appreciate you showing your mistakes and things you learned. Not enough people do this anymore. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the video. I’ll be replacing the exact light fixtures you had with recessed LED lights this weekend.
Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
A lot of people are doing this renovation, they like the look of flush mounted lights. Which I think is just a fad now 😂.
I just have two problems with doing this.
The light output is not the greatest for home use since it’s a down light and there is no baffle. Which may lead to having installing more lighting.
Second, these are throwaway led fixtures. In case the light fails, which it can, you need to replace the entire unit. Which may require a complete re-wire if you can’t replace with the same fixture. Not the easiest for most people to do when it happens.
I’d rather install the proper led bulbs in existing fixtures. Bulbs are much easer to replace. Plus you can always change the led wattage by changing the existing led bulb.
These have quick connectors so if the led fails, which is less likely compared to standard bulbs, you buy the replacement waffle and quick connect it. That's the entire purpose of why they're simpler. I do agree it feels weird not just replacement bulb. I'd also say if a person doesn't feel comfortable wiring these, they'd probably just replace the bulb, or hire someone to instal a more traditional alternate fixture in which they can just replace the bulb. It's just a other option. I'm installing these in my kitchen where I have one of those large horizontal bars that is very 90s and it it's failing.
Thank you for the video. I think you did an excellent job. I just recently had my house built and installed all the wafer lights my self. We all make mistakes and that is how we learn. Keep up the good work.
Very nice video. Appreciate your focus to details.
Just had the same situation in a new condo for my brother in-law. All electrical cabling is BX going into electrical boxes. Brother-in-law had purchased recessed lights with plastic electrical boxes. I had him buy ones that have metal boxes. When there was 1 or 2 incoming wires into the existing electrical box, I removed the box and had the wires fed through bushings (made for BX cabling) into the metal box that came with the recessed light and did all my connections there. There was one box that had 3 wires going in. That was too many wires to fit in the little metal box of the fixture so I left the box in the ceiling, added a pigtail using bx wiring from the original box and then put a round cover to close the box. Then put the pigtail into the new fixture box and terminated it. It was important in my case to use metal box because I needed to maintain a bonded connection on bx jacket all the way back to the panel. If I used plastic boxes that come with some of the fixtures, I would of broken the bond have ungrounded jacketed BX cable down the line. Very dangerous. I could of possibly used a Y bushing but not sure if it's legal to have 7 conductors going through a 1/2inch knockout. The metal boxes with the new fixtures did come with plastic bushings. They would of been ok if I were using romex which is not the case. You should definitely put a cover on the opened boxes and put bushings on your knockouts. I would also use full romex between the existing box and your fixture box. The added layer of jacket gives extra protection to the conductors.
@T K Several people have commented about the box cover and knockouts. One guy even went as far as to throw in some extreme accusations, so I appreciate the way you went about commenting on the mistakes I made in the video. I'm considering doing another video where I show the install process again and address these mistakes with the proper corrections. I know I made a mistake and I'm willing to admit to it as I did in my pinned comment on this video.
I would have ran a romex jumper from the j box to the light j box and then put a blank cover over ceiling box.
Excellent video; step by step for us newbies at this! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Good luck on your project
Awesome dude! I’ve got two of those aggravating light fixtures and I’ll switch to the ones you’ve installed. Thanks! I’m a subscriber now!
Thanks for this video.. normally don’t comment but this was what I was looking for.. and after reading the comments I know to add bushings.. “A” video..
You're a great teacher.
I appreciate that!
My man's bicep game is STRONG. 💪
Thanks man, glad someone is noticing my hard work at the gym 😎💪
Thanks Oscar de la Hoya , this really helped me
Lollll.
Great demo. Nice look.
Semper Fi and good job on the green belt. Thanks for rv video
It would be nice if you showed more of the lighting. How bright etc.
Nice but I would have protected the junction box cutout of the LED fixture with some sort of plastic attachment into the box to protect the wire over time.. Small detail but overall makes total sense.
Beautiful absolutely divine and the light looks pretty good too if I must say so haha dont know about yall but I learned alot thank you!
Ooh Rah Marine, good tutorial
I have those fixtures and small one fits 2 bulbs and 15" fits 3 .
Thank you for sharing, very well explained.
Nice attempting to do the same thing
Well, I never thought I would say it, but these pancakes make boob lights look stylish! But I have used pancakes and they are fantastic for utlility and price. They are in my basement and garage. I am thinking of putting a couple of closets. ✅✅ Please note that these are NOT recessed. You can get canless LEDs that are truly recessed. Recessed means you the lens/diffuser is up above (recessed) beyond the level of the ceiling. These pancakes are a flush mount that requires cutting the drywall. The reason for a truly recessed light is you are not supposed to be able to see the glare of the surface of the light, but the light comes into in reflects throughout your space. These new pancakes are very useful, but they are ugly as sin for your living areas whre they look like UFOs on your ceiling.
Very good demonstration! Learn something !
The existing junction box above the ceiling needs to have a cover. You can't just use the individual wires out of the existing box. Romex (even a short piece) needs to be run from the junction box to the led driver, which additionally needs romex connectors.
Thank you for your military service.
You mean a plastic bushing? To protect the insulation on the wires?
@@pearlperlitavenegas2023 NO, like he said ROMEX CONNECTORS, BE SAFE.
Perfect! Thanks.
Thank you for sharing this video was very informative
Quick question: It looks like you left the original metal box in the ceiling. Doesn’t code require that you remove that box and run back to the shielded cable into the new wire box with a bushing?
I did leave the box and yes code wants what you said. They ran the cables through metal conduit. Some of the conduit has enough movement to drop through the ceiling without the box to secure it. So I left the box to keep the conduit attached to it, since I can't attach the metal conduit to the new wire box or remove the conduit without tearing the place apart.They have slim LEDs that can hook up to the standard electrical box which is what I should have bought for this situation and saved these for an area where I want to add lights. I will have to go back and fix my mistake.
Good shit Marine
Thank you for your service
So what happened to the other three wires?
Not to shabby.
why skip half of removing the original electrical box
Thx for sharing.
How would you do it if the lights are on a 3 way switch
If you are replacing an existing working light that is connected to 3 way switches with a new light, then all you need to do is wire it the same way it is currently wired. Any wire that connects to the current light will connect to the respective location on the Ultra Slim Led Lights.
I definitely suscribed and like this chanel!too bad im old to join the army!😛🤭😍
Glad you enjoyed the video, I appreciate the support!
@@thediygrunt you 're very welcome!🙋♂️🙏🏻
Great video, my friend. I have an old kitchen fixture like you took down, however, mine has two light sockets. When I take it down, will there be one set of wires for the LED flush mounted light?
It should have only one set of wires going to the light itself, if only one light switch controls the fixture
Look like beginning electrician doing that, need remove the all metal box and attach the cable with special bushing to new box for safety, but thanks for sharing
@azul4ever mx I have addressed the metal box in my pinned comment
i have an issue no ground wire coming from ceiling, what do i do
Lights do not require a ground wire to work. In fact most older homes will not have ground wires for the lights so if you do not have one you can just make the rest of the connections like normal the light will work.
These new lights are nice, but just remember that they direct light down. The so called "old" fixtures that hang below the ceiling spread the light around the room, lighting the room much better. Something that must be considered before making the switch.
I just put an led bulb in mine and called it a day.
Used this video and the comments for assistance. One thing tho….one of the existing fixtures has two of each wire plus three grounds. I believe bc it’s a relay to the next fixture. The canless assembly only has two open slots for each wire therefore I don’t know how to remedy. I tried putting two into one but wouldn’t fit. Thanks for assistance
It sounds like you need to use a pig tail. A pig tail is a third independent wire which wraps around 2 two wires in order to allow you to hook up just one to the fixture. This allows the power to still travel down the line to the next device. This does require having extra wire on hand of the proper gauge (wire can be expensive). Push-In Wire Connectors are another option (my preference when I have solid wire). They can be bought in several different sizes. If the fixture you are trying to install has one of these already, you can choose to cut it off and strip the wire to allow it to hook up to a larger connector. Stranded wire can be difficult to use in a push in connector especially if it is a smaller gauge.
Any tips on how to remove one of these? Do I just pull down hard? I am afraid of damaging the drywall.
Yes you will have to just pull down, just do so gently. My best tip is to pull it down on one "side" and find one of the two spring clips. Then focus on pulling down at that one clip that will give you enough room to get your fingers in and pull the clip back to free it then you can easily get the other side free at that point and without damaging drywall. If the drywall is already damaged and starting to crumble in an area then try to avoid having the clip in that area when installed so the removal will be less likely to cause more damage. I hope this explanation makes sense and helps.
@@thediygrunt yes that helped! Thank you.
You look like a very nice young man and you are getting things done but, you made some electrical errors that you could correct.
I did electrical work 20 years ago, so I am not up on the current NEC requirements. Also some areas require wire to be in metal conduit or metal clad cables (MC Cables) even when the NEC does not.
The conduits could have been run when the building was built. Then the room finished below them later. You should ask an Electrician in your area, how this should be done and if the LED lights you have are ok. I don't know what is above the room. Could pest get to the wires? I noticed that there were Exit lights and an AC at an inside wall. The other wires could be for them.
The junction box in the ceiling was metal with 2 conduits coming into it.
(1.) All power electrical connections need to be made in an approved junction box, and the box must be covered. Some locations require metal conduits and boxes.
** This is because bad electrical connections cause heat, sometimes enough heat to melt copper wires and cause a fire.
(2.) Any wires or cables entering a metal box must be from a conduit or protected by an approved connector.
** Cables entering the box need to be protected where they enter so they do not get cut by the sharp edges of the knock-out hole and short out.
The video shows that individual wires not in a cable were run from the open face of the existing junction box through the open knock-out of the new LED included box. The wires were run not in a cable or a conduit.
YOU COULD HAVE:
(1.) Installed a large surface mounted light at the box location like a Flourescent light. It would provide better diffused light, not just down light.
(2.) There could be a new MC cable and connectors or flexible metal conduit run from the current box location to the LED light junction box. The current box would need to be big enough for all the wires and have a cover installed.
I suggested MC because I don't know if Romex (non-metalic wire) is allowed in your area.
Trouble pushing stranded wire into the connector? Simple solution… solder the end of the wire making it a “solid wire” end
Does the wire box just sit on the sheetrock, or do you have to screw it onto the joist?
For this particular light, the box just sits where you can fit it. The box doesn't have the ability to screw into a joist
@@thediygrunt thank you!
Question. If I have only neutral and hot, is it ok to use this light neglecting the ground?
@Duyen Chau Technically, the light would function with just the neutral and hot. Ground wires are important for safety purposes so I personally cannot recommend neglecting the ground. I would highly recommend asking a certified electrician or at least researching a way to ground the lights in another manner since you are lacking the standard ground wire.
@@thediygrunt thank you for the promtpt reply!
I always wonder if all this LED recessed lighting will eventually go away like popcorn ceilings?
It will probably go out of style then come back into style. From what I have seen in homes built in the 70s they were pretty common in hallways and near mantles to spotlight a area. But you look at houses built in the 2000s and they disappear and its boob lights everywhere. I think they are making a come back because the "Modern Style" is a flush, clean, simple look. Every new house on the market seems to have flush/recessed lights and the entire house in a white/grey/black color scheme which probably will go out of style in 10-15 years.
It doesn’t matter, you’re the owner so go with what you like. These led are a lot better than boring dome lights & easy to install.
Everything changes in time. Who knows we might go back to burnin candles 😂
Your title reads no hole saw. What do you call the keyhole saw you use to cut the hole?
A keyhole saw.
Question.....the mousetrap-springs that hold the light against the ceiling. Some of mine don't hold the light real tight against the ceiling surface....so there is a noticeable gap. How to fix this ???
@Wil Ferch I had the same issue. Usually, it was caused because they were getting caught on something. Typically, they were hitting the 2x4 stud, power cable, or the electrical box. I found installing one mousetrap spring at a time in a spot where it held tight, and I could verify it was clear of obstructions, and then doing the opposite one worked best, rather than trying to put both in at the same time as the instructions say to. If this doesn’t work or is not the cause of your problem, you could try putting in a shim for the spring to fall on. A piece of drywall or small piece of wood might work to help it pull the light tighter into the hole. Out of the 6 I have installed, 2 or 3 still ended up with a small gap. I have also noticed this is a common issue with this style light in other houses I have been in.
@@thediygrunt ...thanks for the courteous and quick reply. In my case I also think the hole diameter that was cut ( by "others") was a tad too large. I think the unit fits better when it's also a snug fit against the cut hole. A foam-type wedge against the hole diameter in (say) 4 places arranged in 90 degree increments...may help.
Hard to tell was the new fixture electric box metal? If so I didn't see a bond ground. If it didn't have one, one needs installed for safety. If the wires become nicked etc it can make you the ground if you touch it. That also why you need to install at least a plastic plug in the knockout to protect the wires. Not trying to tear you down just safety steps that need followed. The DYI need to do it the correct way or hire it done. Its not worth your house or someone's life to save a few dollars. Other then that you gave good instructions.
Are Those LED lights as bright as normal light bulbs?
They are 800 lumens. If you cannot find the lumen output of your bulbs then they are equal to a 65 watt light bulb while only using 12 watts. They have 5 different color settings and they are also dimmable if you are using a dimmable light switch with them.
I can see the problem with the old fixture, especially with new LED bulbs that can be very harsh when viewed directly, but the new one has the opposite problem, with the light aimed straight down, casting a circle of light on the floor, and it's fairly ugly, in my opinion (as are can lights). Short of the cost of installing cove lighting, I'd prefer a fixture that extends maybe an inch down from the ceiling, aiming most of the light straight out at the tops of the walls, but not at the eyes of those walking in. One cheap way to get that effect would be to get one of those fixtures with a suspended dish-like shade and lightly spray metallic paint on the inside surface of the shade, that could even be done with your old fixture if the area near the top were masked off to let the light out.
I purposefully wanted a light that would only shine down and not onto the ceiling. For me, it was to hide my rather crappy drywall compounding job on the ceiling. So, a flat white paint on the ceiling combined with the lights helped to hide all my imperfections. I do agree they are rather harsh on the eyes if you look at them directly, but that plays to my advantage of no one looking at my ceiling very long. Thankfully, this is a warehouse so being a little rough looking is acceptable.
With these lights u have to check the beam angle., So u don't get. That circle on the floor.
aiming most of the light straight out at the tops of the walls < and reflects the light off the white ceiling for more light.
is this a house installation ? just wondering about the exit sign 🤔
It is a warehouse. It's not being used for business purposes, just personal storage.
How did you
Unscrew the junction box… mine doesn’t seem possible to remove without cutting the plastic junction box from below. Screws are on the outside into the joist.
@Sean I had metal boxes screwed into the joist that went into the direct center of the box into a joist above them. Sounds like you have the plastic boxes nailed into the joist to the side of it at an angle? If they are nailed in then you can pry them out with a claw hammer, pliers, and a crowbar. It can help to cut a larger hole in the drywall if you need the extra work space. If they are screwed in, and you are unable to reach the heads, then you will be forced to cut the drywall. If your lights can fit without messing with your original junction box, then simply leave it and run the wires to the new box that came with the lights (if you bought the same style I did). I only messed with my metal boxes because they prevented the lights from mounting.
@@thediygrunt Hey appreciate the reply, yea the screws are unfortunately inaccessible, and prying it will damage the drywall. I was wondering if my best solution is to just use an oscillator tool to cut the plastic junction box in half.
@Sean Cutting the box is probably your best bet if you are set on removing the box without damaging the drywall. I don't know if you have the space, but you might be able to simply take a hammer to the plastic box to break it. Then you might be able to cut the screws off once the broken plastic is out of the way.
I would like to leave the old box in but you did not video how you fit the new box in with the old box
ruclips.net/video/MjNsenbZpAY/видео.html
I just arranged them however they would fit. The updated video might show it more clearly
Semper Fi
how to replace when it burns out
Kiero le se en castellano
You forgot to put a grommet to protect the wire to protect wires.
I've made an updated video correcting my mistakes ruclips.net/video/MjNsenbZpAY/видео.html
Overall, a decent video showing how to install an overhead LED lamp. However, you need update the video showing the correct way to wire installing romex connectors and rewiring the junction box.
Not supposed to have an open box without a cover - if something ever shorted a spark could start the strapping or joist on fire. Good thing is that hole is simple to access.
Second - you needed a wire clamp in that knockout hole - you have live conductors rubbing against the sharp edge of that hole.
I took the cover off the old light and put in an 1.00 led bulb, took 1 minute and i save a bunch of money and no work. Plus those led lights don't last as they say and are not very bright.
Most inset lights need a fire box to stay up to code
As long as these lights are IC rated they don't need a fire box. They are safe for direct contact with insulation.
The old looked better.
Lol….the point of the vid I thought was for you to show how you banged out the box…
You don't show the hard part,how to move the electrical box out of the way
@Armando Agurto Check out my pinned comment, I address the electrical box there.
A hundred bucks?!
If you are asking if the light was 100 dollars, no it was not. I bought two, 4 packs, so 8 lights total I think it was just under 100 so I rounded up. Considering I bought these months ago they are probably 100 dollars total now with the prices increases.
How gay get out of the camies.