For anyone who tries this, always remember to make registration keys in the positive mould before you pour the silicone. That way it will actually fit back together and not slide around (thus not distorting the final cast).
does your mold end up sticky at all after removing the playdough? the silicone i'm using seems to be sticky wherever it makes contact with the playdough.
Nope. The only time my silicone is sticky is when it's not completely cured. If only certan areas are sticky, my best guess is that the silicone wasn't mixed well and certain areas didn't cure, or is curing at a different rate then the rest of the silicone.
@@TheTca211 heh.. going from suck to blow... *cough*idiotic spaceballs ref* Ok. Vacuum sucks, meaing air is pulled out of the chamber and requires a vacuum pump to pull the air from within the chamber out. For silicon molds, this woks to remove all the air out of the freshly mixed silicone. Then the vacuum is released and you have bubble free silicone that can be poured into the mold. Using pressure blows air into the chamber creating pressure on the silicone. in this instance, the silicone is already poured over the mold and as many bubbles are popped and the whole mold is throw into the pot and it is filled with air to about 30-40PSI. This squeezes all the bubbles together and so long as you don't have undercuts in the kit where air may become trapped, you will get a very bubble free mold. Now, you can do both! vacuum to remove the air from the mixed silicone, pour the silicone to make the mold, then put it into the pot and pressurize that. I think that would be the best of both worlds, but that would require something that sucks and blows... or two things to do those two actions :D
Kevin Kearney Because when I pulled it, it wasn't fully cured. Depending on your mix ratio, age of your resin, relative humidity, relative temperature, etc... the cure time will vary. It can be fully cured within 1 - 2 hours, or take 1 - 2 days to fully cure up.
I got a question, ive tried this method but the pice came out flexable [even after weeks still hasnt hardened] , am i misding a step or maybe miss measuring?
I measure by weight. I believe part B needs to be shaken up a bit before pouring. I've run into this a few time where the part never fully cures, and most of the time it is because the mix ratio was off or I didn't premix the part B well enough before pouring. What clear resin product are you using?
mattia moser I pick up my white resin locally from a place called Silpak, and use their silcast II product. For the clear resin, I used Smooth On Crystal Clear 202. The silicone I use is from Hobby Silicone and it just a regular 20 shore RTV.
Those Gundam Guys Thank you for your answer. I want to try to make the 1/144 zaku visor which is black to duplicate in clear plastic. Do you think is possible? The part is the black one here www.dalong.net/review/hg/ho01/p/ho01_j_head.jpg
mattia moser Yes, that's possible. I did that in this video, its the same process. Make a silicone mold first. Then use some clear resin to make a cast.
For anyone who tries this, always remember to make registration keys in the positive mould before you pour the silicone. That way it will actually fit back together and not slide around (thus not distorting the final cast).
I've never subscribed so fast to a RUclips channel
Lego blocks and Play dough - You are a genius - I always make timber mould and Clay - But - will not not - THANK YOU
does your mold end up sticky at all after removing the playdough? the silicone i'm using seems to be sticky wherever it makes contact with the playdough.
Nope. The only time my silicone is sticky is when it's not completely cured. If only certan areas are sticky, my best guess is that the silicone wasn't mixed well and certain areas didn't cure, or is curing at a different rate then the rest of the silicone.
Pressure pot? You mean a vacuum chamber?
Nope, I use a pressure pot. I'm used to using a pressure pot for mold making. Vacuum chambers are good too; but not what I'm used to using.
@@ThoseGundamGuys what's the difference?
Thanks by the way!
@@TheTca211 heh.. going from suck to blow... *cough*idiotic spaceballs ref* Ok. Vacuum sucks, meaing air is pulled out of the chamber and requires a vacuum pump to pull the air from within the chamber out. For silicon molds, this woks to remove all the air out of the freshly mixed silicone. Then the vacuum is released and you have bubble free silicone that can be poured into the mold. Using pressure blows air into the chamber creating pressure on the silicone. in this instance, the silicone is already poured over the mold and as many bubbles are popped and the whole mold is throw into the pot and it is filled with air to about 30-40PSI. This squeezes all the bubbles together and so long as you don't have undercuts in the kit where air may become trapped, you will get a very bubble free mold. Now, you can do both! vacuum to remove the air from the mixed silicone, pour the silicone to make the mold, then put it into the pot and pressurize that. I think that would be the best of both worlds, but that would require something that sucks and blows... or two things to do those two actions :D
This "mold" needs a proper pour spout for the resin and registration keys so it actually goes back together properly
So what kind of pot is it to remove it I'm confused
Kevin Kearney It's a pressure pot, read this article I wrote a while back: gamerabaenre.com/?p=678 That should help clear that up.
Those Gundam Guys why did it seem so sticky in the end, not cured fully?
Kevin Kearney Because when I pulled it, it wasn't fully cured. Depending on your mix ratio, age of your resin, relative humidity, relative temperature, etc... the cure time will vary. It can be fully cured within 1 - 2 hours, or take 1 - 2 days to fully cure up.
Ahh makes sense
What type of silicone did you use and what was the clear molding
Silicone is the 2125 with green catalyst from this site: hobbysilicone.com/silicones/ The clear resin is smooth on crystal clear 200 resin
What Materials did you use to recast your parts ?
For this, I used smooth on's crystal clear 2 part clear resin.
Those Gundam Guys where can i buy that ?
Those Gundam Guys did you use clay for the molding ?
I bought this online. I forget where, But you can easily search for it.
I used silicone molds
I got a question, ive tried this method but the pice came out flexable [even after weeks still hasnt hardened] , am i misding a step or maybe miss measuring?
I measure by weight. I believe part B needs to be shaken up a bit before pouring. I've run into this a few time where the part never fully cures, and most of the time it is because the mix ratio was off or I didn't premix the part B well enough before pouring. What clear resin product are you using?
Hello can you List me the name of the putty and resin brand you used?
mattia moser I pick up my white resin locally from a place called Silpak, and use their silcast II product. For the clear resin, I used Smooth On Crystal Clear 202. The silicone I use is from Hobby Silicone and it just a regular 20 shore RTV.
Those Gundam Guys Thank you for your answer. I want to try to make the 1/144 zaku visor which is black to duplicate in clear plastic. Do you think is possible? The part is the black one here www.dalong.net/review/hg/ho01/p/ho01_j_head.jpg
mattia moser Yes, that's possible. I did that in this video, its the same process. Make a silicone mold first. Then use some clear resin to make a cast.
Those Gundam Guys thanks you make me feel like a god :)
Those Gundam Guys I just bought the resin, they are 2 bottles the smallest one smells like hell (resin smell) it is something wrong with that?
Great vid dude
Nice job
Thank you
I knew LEGO would be useful for SOMETHING! Keep up the good work, maybe LEGO could be useful for something else!
Not any more 😊
your voice is same johnny depp
Thanks for the video. You are having people over, you might want to straighten up a bit.