Hardened Hot Glue takes acrylic paint very well -- no primer needed. I've made a number of terrain pieces using it, based on DM Scotty's videos. I've only used it a couple of times for molding and injecting, but it does work. Great video, thanks for sharing. Cheers!
What if I told you that there's a new official version of that sarcophagus/tomb, and it's purely made of plastic? HeroQuest got remade by Hasbro recently, and the furniture got an upgrade compared to the original. I have a whole playlist detailing everything that happened since Hasbro first announced the remake if you're interested: ruclips.net/p/PLoFbpTiX4KCdxXZmdCGaoAxKTUNfOuTqS
try using blue stuff for the mould and a 1:1 mix of milliput/greenstuff for the recast you will get a much better finish. this method will do for terrain though
I remember getting obsessed with making moulds etc in the late 90's and actually tried this method! I remember getting some REALLY good results with certain types of miniatures. You did a great job here! Liked and subbed! :)
It's really cool that I happened upon a method that was used in the past by miniature enthusiasts! Chunky miniatures sort of like the Heroquest chaos warriors is my guess for the type that may work really well, though I have started painting all mine so it may be too late to test that hypothesis. Eventually I will be making a sequel to this video involving refining the method to be able to cast some skeletons and the casting of other things such as a certain block toy. I appreciate the support, thank you!
Dude what you gotta do is take a container that you don't care about that you think would work for this like a mini nonstick pan. Put it with some hot glue sticks in and melt them, but not to the point of being completely loose liquid... Have it be like a qtr inch deep. Then you straight up dip the piece you want to copy in like a stamping motion after it's coated in oil. Don't push it all the way in to the point of covering it fully, but to the point of being able to pull it out without cutting.... Voila.... It works really really well for me
I found that pushing the miniature into the glue rather than pouring it on top works better to preserve detail. I would also recommend making complex minis in two halves and sanding then gluing the two together. However, as far as Warhammer stuff is concerned, I love to use hot glue drops as wax seals. Just find something with text to transfer apply a drop of glue and stamp the glue. One of my favorites is to make little spoof purity seals for templars with LEGO logos on them. Albeit they do tend to be mirror images.
looks great! For the 2 part mold, I'd probably puddle glue in a little container and stuff the first half down on to that after putting glue on the first half to remove air bubbles
So make the mold more like you would traditionally pour resin? I need to try that and see if it works, and that might even solve the issue of horns breaking off
I discovered hot glue casting by accident.. i unglued a piece i didn't like and realized how it took the imprint of the piece. *READ IF YOU WANT USEFUL TIP* I first tried making molds from floral foams.. Works great but you destroy the mold each time and result is a bit grainy. I changed for clay molds.. *DO NOT KNEAD* take the clay pack out and let it harden a bit.. when it's a bit cold and solidified, you can start pressing originals on it. I do front and back of model and fill the molds with hot glue. So you get a front and back piece you need to glue together. Voilà! you have slick detailed duplicates and the mold is still good for many other duplicates. like you said.. small bits and limbs are trickier to make. But i made Jawas that look great because they are simple to make. thanks for this video 👍
That's awesome that this actually worked for a miniature! I've still just been using this for debris on terrain because of the limitations, but I could see it working really well for me with something larger and in one piece like an orc's boar.
I have not tried using dissolved sprue, though I do know it can create some cool results! I'm guessing that you know about Miniature Hobbyist, and also that he made a custom Stompa just from the melted sprue ruclips.net/video/yvMsJzaaju4/видео.html If you're trying to use the goop in the hot glue molds I am not entirely sure what would happen, or if the acetone would evaporate as quickly as it normally does to harden the plastic. I'm guessing that oil wouldn't be needed in that case, because hot glue doesn't stick too well to smooth plastic. Do the parts shrink as they dry? p.s. I saw that in one of your videos, the panel stuck to the wax paper. Is it possible that you bought some cheap wax paper that only has wax on one side? My mom discovered that when doing some baking this year.
@@Sirdeathvids yeah, he is kind of the reason I started but I'm gonna go on ahead and say he sucks , I asked him for an opinion a few times now and just straight up blows me off. Maybe cause I'm not a patreon. I made a GUO and then I figured screw it make a full 1500 army. I tried it on Saturday, even with oil the putty doesn't really work well on plastic molds cause . Sprue putty actually expands as it dries especially if you kneed it, it creates air bubbles. I'm not using wax paper anymore I'm using discarded poly tape film, I work in a printing shop, we use poly tape to do letters and the film it comes on doesn't stick to anything at all.
It is possible that he just didn't see your comments, instead of it being for malicious reasons. I know that I sometimes have trouble keeping up with my comments, and he gets significantly more than I do. The putty expanding isn't something that I would have expected, because liquid is being evaporated to harden the plastic.
@@Sirdeathvids I thought that too but as it dries from the outside in, the outer layer makes a film and the one inside has a hard time finding a way out
Keep a bowl of ice/cold water beside you while you work with hot glue. If you get hot glue on your hand, submerge it in the cold water immediately and you will not receive a burn. :)
After you replicate your figures, you prolly would want to wash off the oil with soap so will that wear off the paint? Besides this doubt, I find this as an amazing idea!
Yeah you would want to, and that is a possibility so I was casting plastic miniatures that were only primed and not fully painted because of that. If you had sealed it really well with varnish then it wouldn't be an issue, but I haven't done too much testing with that. Thanks!
Acrylics should work fine as long as the hot glue piece was washed with soap and water, and then primed with spray paint. If you were really worried about it rubbing off, then once you're finished with painting, a clear coat can also be sprayed over top to preserve it.
i would highly recommend sealing your finished paint job with 2 or 3 light coats of Modge Podge (matte finish). after it's finished curing the clear coats.... (wait one day) ... THEN... your acrylic (or any kind) will be permanently sealed with ZERO chance of it ever coming off.
look up green stuff moulding. The heat and glue doesn't seem to get fine detail. Might be ok for moulds. Then you can buy epoxy putty that is similar to green stuff or just use green stuff. You can put holes on one part of the mould so it lines up with the other one.
Thanks for the tip! Yeah, if I was trying to actually make some good looking minis for something other than terrain then I would probably have to use green stuff or other epoxy putty.
You should be able to do this with Lego; I started recording a kind of "part 2" to this and tested with some Mega Bloks pieces (some coins, a skull, and a couple melee weapons) which did work. What Lego pieces are you going to be duplicating?
It worked for a Mega Bloks head, so I am guessing that it could also work for an action figure head. One suggestion though is that once you get the plastic head out of the mold, create a small slice to allow the mold to be bent easier when getting the hot glue casting out of there (if you’re doing it the same way as with my ork head)
The models that I started with are not, but the final product is made out of hot glue. If I didn't have the oil, the two pieces of hot glue would bind together into a blob of glue.
Gotta be honest it would be cheaper to just buy blue stuff for the molds and use miliput for the bits/models. Results are also heaps better that way. You can get 8 bars of reusable and remoldable blue stuff for about 10 euros and a pack of miliput goes for about 4 if you're not picky about the colour, which you shouldn't be since you're priming and painting over it anyway.
Yeah, if I was serious about actually getting good casts (not just for use as debris in terrain) then I would probably look into blue stuff and miliput. I'm still a little surprised that my method did somewhat work, even with as many downsides as it has.
If it's something chunky like a bolter then this will definitely work, but if it's something smaller like a cultist's pistol you might have some issues with it. You might also want to experiment and see if you can make a better 2-part mould than me; either by creating a puddle of glue and squishing the object into it, or by trying a more traditional method of casting with some kind of marking that indicates where the two halves will be joined together. Pretty soon (next few weeks) I'll be releasing a video about white glue casting as well. Despite how weird it sounds there are some cases where it may create better castings than hot glue.
If I were smart and wanted really good results, resin would probably be the material to use. Its rigidity would allow it to pop out of the hot glue, and I would just have to spray some mould release rather than using the oil. In that case, silicone might be better to create the mould with, even though both resin and silicone are a little pricier. If you have the means to use silicone and resin, you should tell me how it goes.
Canola oil; it's a plant commonly grown in Canada that's used in the production of margarine. Olive oil should work too, and maybe even mineral oil though I haven't tested the last one.
You could try it but with super glue it dries so quickly that you’ll probably be left with a massive ball of super glue. You could test this with white/pva glue but it would take forever to dry and could be quite brittle
Recently I got a small silicone mat from the dollar store for hot gluing, so in the future I think that I will be using that if I do more hot glue casting
The glue sticks can be melted in bulk in a small pan/metal containerck this video out for an example at around 4m 35s ruclips.net/video/5YrxfzWIe28/видео.html
Can you cast miniatures with *white glue* ?
Watch Here: ruclips.net/video/ro-VU7ckVUc/видео.html
Hardened Hot Glue takes acrylic paint very well -- no primer needed. I've made a number of terrain pieces using it, based on DM Scotty's videos. I've only used it a couple of times for molding and injecting, but it does work. Great video, thanks for sharing. Cheers!
That sarcophagus is literally my favorite miniature or all time. This game got me into D&D
What if I told you that there's a new official version of that sarcophagus/tomb, and it's purely made of plastic? HeroQuest got remade by Hasbro recently, and the furniture got an upgrade compared to the original. I have a whole playlist detailing everything that happened since Hasbro first announced the remake if you're interested: ruclips.net/p/PLoFbpTiX4KCdxXZmdCGaoAxKTUNfOuTqS
try using blue stuff for the mould and a 1:1 mix of milliput/greenstuff for the recast you will get a much better finish. this method will do for terrain though
I remember getting obsessed with making moulds etc in the late 90's and actually tried this method!
I remember getting some REALLY good results with certain types of miniatures.
You did a great job here! Liked and subbed! :)
It's really cool that I happened upon a method that was used in the past by miniature enthusiasts! Chunky miniatures sort of like the Heroquest chaos warriors is my guess for the type that may work really well, though I have started painting all mine so it may be too late to test that hypothesis. Eventually I will be making a sequel to this video involving refining the method to be able to cast some skeletons and the casting of other things such as a certain block toy. I appreciate the support, thank you!
Thanks. You've inspired me to make a motorcycle helmet visor screw cover.
I'm happy to have found this because a genuine replacement is extortionate.
Dude what you gotta do is take a container that you don't care about that you think would work for this like a mini nonstick pan. Put it with some hot glue sticks in and melt them, but not to the point of being completely loose liquid... Have it be like a qtr inch deep. Then you straight up dip the piece you want to copy in like a stamping motion after it's coated in oil. Don't push it all the way in to the point of covering it fully, but to the point of being able to pull it out without cutting.... Voila.... It works really really well for me
I found that pushing the miniature into the glue rather than pouring it on top works better to preserve detail. I would also recommend making complex minis in two halves and sanding then gluing the two together. However, as far as Warhammer stuff is concerned, I love to use hot glue drops as wax seals. Just find something with text to transfer apply a drop of glue and stamp the glue.
One of my favorites is to make little spoof purity seals for templars with LEGO logos on them. Albeit they do tend to be mirror images.
looks great! For the 2 part mold, I'd probably puddle glue in a little container and stuff the first half down on to that after putting glue on the first half to remove air bubbles
So make the mold more like you would traditionally pour resin? I need to try that and see if it works, and that might even solve the issue of horns breaking off
@@Sirdeathvids I guess so? I'm not sure, never tried pouring molds seriously so I'm probably not the guy to ask lol
This would be a good way to make corpses to decorate miniatures!
Indeed it is! I recently used the ribcage and a casting of a Mega Bloks shield on an orc barricade scatter terrain piece, and it looks really cool
"This would be a good way to make corpses" and i'm out
I discovered hot glue casting by accident..
i unglued a piece i didn't like and realized how it took the imprint of the piece.
*READ IF YOU WANT USEFUL TIP*
I first tried making molds from floral foams.. Works great but you destroy the mold each time and result is a bit grainy.
I changed for clay molds.. *DO NOT KNEAD*
take the clay pack out and let it harden a bit.. when it's a bit cold and solidified, you can start pressing originals on it.
I do front and back of model and fill the molds with hot glue.
So you get a front and back piece you need to glue together.
Voilà! you have slick detailed duplicates and the mold is still good for many other duplicates.
like you said.. small bits and limbs are trickier to make.
But i made Jawas that look great because they are simple to make.
thanks for this video 👍
very helpful, I lost a leg to one of my dragon ogres and this video was a quick and easy fix
That's awesome that this actually worked for a miniature! I've still just been using this for debris on terrain because of the limitations, but I could see it working really well for me with something larger and in one piece like an orc's boar.
@@Sirdeathvids I don't think there would be enough detail for the hair on the boar to come out well, but it's worth trying
have you tried using disolved sprue ? im making minis with disolved sprue but i havent tried casting , i should try this out
I have not tried using dissolved sprue, though I do know it can create some cool results! I'm guessing that you know about Miniature Hobbyist, and also that he made a custom Stompa just from the melted sprue ruclips.net/video/yvMsJzaaju4/видео.html
If you're trying to use the goop in the hot glue molds I am not entirely sure what would happen, or if the acetone would evaporate as quickly as it normally does to harden the plastic. I'm guessing that oil wouldn't be needed in that case, because hot glue doesn't stick too well to smooth plastic. Do the parts shrink as they dry? p.s. I saw that in one of your videos, the panel stuck to the wax paper. Is it possible that you bought some cheap wax paper that only has wax on one side? My mom discovered that when doing some baking this year.
@@Sirdeathvids yeah, he is kind of the reason I started but I'm gonna go on ahead and say he sucks , I asked him for an opinion a few times now and just straight up blows me off. Maybe cause I'm not a patreon. I made a GUO and then I figured screw it make a full 1500 army.
I tried it on Saturday, even with oil the putty doesn't really work well on plastic molds cause . Sprue putty actually expands as it dries especially if you kneed it, it creates air bubbles. I'm not using wax paper anymore I'm using discarded poly tape film, I work in a printing shop, we use poly tape to do letters and the film it comes on doesn't stick to anything at all.
It is possible that he just didn't see your comments, instead of it being for malicious reasons. I know that I sometimes have trouble keeping up with my comments, and he gets significantly more than I do.
The putty expanding isn't something that I would have expected, because liquid is being evaporated to harden the plastic.
@@Sirdeathvids I thought that too but as it dries from the outside in, the outer layer makes a film and the one inside has a hard time finding a way out
I wonder about using candle wax... for the mould, and hot glue for the model
I also think I'd put the hot glue in an empty baby food container and put the mini, then put hot glue on top
Id use a blue stuff mold instead. Easy to use, reusable and gives good detail.
Keep a bowl of ice/cold water beside you while you work with hot glue. If you get hot glue on your hand, submerge it in the cold water immediately and you will not receive a burn. :)
That is a smart idea! In that basement, I had a bathroom to my left just 2 meters away, so I had quick access to cold water if needed.
Looking good my man, keep up the good work!
Wanting to make some hot toys ironman head casts.... really happy I found this video.
You'll have to update me with how they turn out, and that's awesome that you found this helpful!
@@Sirdeathvids
The molds worked great, will use bondo (car body filler) to create as the glue set like worms in the mold
After you replicate your figures, you prolly would want to wash off the oil with soap so will that wear off the paint? Besides this doubt, I find this as an amazing idea!
Yeah you would want to, and that is a possibility so I was casting plastic miniatures that were only primed and not fully painted because of that. If you had sealed it really well with varnish then it wouldn't be an issue, but I haven't done too much testing with that. Thanks!
Do not do that with minis like w40k, the heat will greatly damage the model, use clay as the mold
So far that hasn't been an issue for me, but that is one of those possible risks that goes along with the process
Very interesting and useful
What kind of paint is best for the hot glue? Will acrylics rub off?
Acrylics should work fine as long as the hot glue piece was washed with soap and water, and then primed with spray paint. If you were really worried about it rubbing off, then once you're finished with painting, a clear coat can also be sprayed over top to preserve it.
i would highly recommend sealing your finished paint job with 2 or 3 light coats of Modge Podge (matte finish).
after it's finished curing the clear coats.... (wait one day)
... THEN... your acrylic (or any kind) will be permanently sealed with ZERO chance of it ever coming off.
look up green stuff moulding. The heat and glue doesn't seem to get fine detail. Might be ok for moulds. Then you can buy epoxy putty that is similar to green stuff or just use green stuff. You can put holes on one part of the mould so it lines up with the other one.
Thanks for the tip! Yeah, if I was trying to actually make some good looking minis for something other than terrain then I would probably have to use green stuff or other epoxy putty.
@@Sirdeathvids plaster of paris might also get you more detail for terrain ruclips.net/video/saOHcz4ehpQ/видео.html has this shown.
Very interesting, I will have to try this!
Thank you! Yeah it's really cool and if you have a larger piece like the tomb mold, you could potentially make some ice cubes out of it too.
Can i do this with lego parts or will it be ruined
You should be able to do this with Lego; I started recording a kind of "part 2" to this and tested with some Mega Bloks pieces (some coins, a skull, and a couple melee weapons) which did work. What Lego pieces are you going to be duplicating?
Sirdeathvids the lego ball joints...the small one tho not the Bionicle type ones
Would this work for action figure heads?
It worked for a Mega Bloks head, so I am guessing that it could also work for an action figure head. One suggestion though is that once you get the plastic head out of the mold, create a small slice to allow the mold to be bent easier when getting the hot glue casting out of there (if you’re doing it the same way as with my ork head)
Wait so are the models also made of hot glue?
The models that I started with are not, but the final product is made out of hot glue. If I didn't have the oil, the two pieces of hot glue would bind together into a blob of glue.
@@Sirdeathvids ok thank you
Gotta be honest it would be cheaper to just buy blue stuff for the molds and use miliput for the bits/models. Results are also heaps better that way.
You can get 8 bars of reusable and remoldable blue stuff for about 10 euros and a pack of miliput goes for about 4 if you're not picky about the colour, which you shouldn't be since you're priming and painting over it anyway.
Yeah, if I was serious about actually getting good casts (not just for use as debris in terrain) then I would probably look into blue stuff and miliput. I'm still a little surprised that my method did somewhat work, even with as many downsides as it has.
I will never buy any more weapons, just gonna dupe them all.
If it's something chunky like a bolter then this will definitely work, but if it's something smaller like a cultist's pistol you might have some issues with it. You might also want to experiment and see if you can make a better 2-part mould than me; either by creating a puddle of glue and squishing the object into it, or by trying a more traditional method of casting with some kind of marking that indicates where the two halves will be joined together. Pretty soon (next few weeks) I'll be releasing a video about white glue casting as well. Despite how weird it sounds there are some cases where it may create better castings than hot glue.
@@Sirdeathvids Thanks, and I'll definitely try that!
Try it with resin
If I were smart and wanted really good results, resin would probably be the material to use. Its rigidity would allow it to pop out of the hot glue, and I would just have to spray some mould release rather than using the oil. In that case, silicone might be better to create the mould with, even though both resin and silicone are a little pricier. If you have the means to use silicone and resin, you should tell me how it goes.
@@Sirdeathvids ohhhh
wait, what oil ?
Canola oil; it's a plant commonly grown in Canada that's used in the production of margarine. Olive oil should work too, and maybe even mineral oil though I haven't tested the last one.
@@Sirdeathvids ok thanks what about coocking oil :)
Can I do this with regular super glue??
You could try it but with super glue it dries so quickly that you’ll probably be left with a massive ball of super glue. You could test this with white/pva glue but it would take forever to dry and could be quite brittle
very unlikely to work with super glue (too brittle when set) and you would need so much its no longer cheap.
use wax paper not foam board. it peels off of hot glue really easily and leaves no residue
Recently I got a small silicone mat from the dollar store for hot gluing, so in the future I think that I will be using that if I do more hot glue casting
The glue sticks can be melted in bulk in a small pan/metal containerck this video out for an example at around 4m 35s ruclips.net/video/5YrxfzWIe28/видео.html
That's really cool! Then the pouring could be more like a traditional mold, and you could circumvent the issue of the glue cooling way too fast.