instead of wasting all that cement, I've found that just shaving a runner with a razor blade into a little glass or metal bowl then adding a little cement at a time, is less wasteful and breaks the plastic down faster. Always be cautious of the fumes this produces!
@@technicalerr0r 3 years later the video popped up again and my sinanju is still in the box untouched lmaoo I don't think it's rare but I won't sell it anyway
I have been painting and modeling for 30+ years. I love it when i find something i didn't know and learned a new technique to take me to another level. Thanks man saves me a ton of time versus using putty to fill in the areas. Thank you for posting this i really do love learning something new. See you can teach us old dogs new tricks!
Lester Walit ideally yeah but it’s definitely still a pain in the ass, and they aren’t very easy to get apart after. I’ve only had it happen once but I made sure it never happened again after lmao
You can skip the step where you melt a bunch of plastic in a jar. That's just so you have enough material to fill in the blemishes. You can remove seam lines from parts as you go by applying a bit of cement to each side of the part as you put them together. Hold together firmly with clamps/fingers for at least 60 seconds. Seam line will be 90% gone in most cases as the two pieces will be welded together as explained in the video. Sand and polish as needed,especially if any seam line remains
I work with other plastic model kits, but this tutorial equally applies. Fantastic demonstration and after 30+ years of constructing plastic models, I have never come across this concept. Fantastic!
_I work with other plastic model kits, but this tutorial equally applies._ My thoughts exactly. The video could've benefited from broader labeling as it's not unique to Gundam. That said, this is a fairly established approach known as *sprue goo.*
Good old "sprue glue". Useful for most model kits based on polystyrene plastics. In a pinch it can also work as gap filler in other materials as the substance essentially dries/cures back into polystyrene.
You actually taught me a super important detail of the plastic cements. Someone at the hobby store I visited claimed they can be used as a clear primer substitute. The fact that they actually melt the plastic certainly explains why it seemed to completely destroy the clear parts I applied it to. Hobby store employees don’t always know what they are talking about it seems. Lesson learned.
@@omegacon4 I wouldn’t go that far. I didn’t know any better than the employee. It’s likely just a job for them, a mindset I do not blame them for having in this day and age.
@@skyeguy7914 That tells me either you have never managed anyone at work (at least not to corporate standards of excellence) OR your work standards are incredibly low.
@@omegacon4 no, it means even as someone who has managed others, I recognize that it’s not worth busting your ass day in and day out to get paid absolutely nothing and still not be able to afford rent, let alone put food on your table. But this is a topic of conversation better had on a different comment section. Not on a video about a hobby that people do because they enjoy it.
I'm going to be honest, I started this video like, "OK, let's see what 'tips' this guy has.", but Bro, this is an amazing idea. I'm honestly, blown away at how smart this is.
Wow! This is a very good idea using the Tamiya cement to melt the plastic, and then apply it on the area that needs to be cleaned up to (at the same time) remove the seam line, fill in dips, etc. It's a good idea especially since you're using the same plastic the part came off of so there's no risk of discoloration or mismatched tones/shades from painting. Awesome! 💯👍
So glad I found this, I started building my first kit yesterday and accidentally filed some divots into a pretty visible spot. I was going to chalk it up to being my first kit but this gives me hope that I could fix it pretty painlessly!
The Tamiya airbrush cleaner also works for creating the sprue goo, and can actually be used in place of the cement. They're shockingly near identical compounds at ~99%.
Interesting technique. I've seen others apply the cement to 2 pieces and doing something similar but the idea of melting the plastic into a glue is cool.
Glad I came across this video. Not a Gunpla builder, I build armor and I found this application very helpful when it comes to having to use the kit's supplied barrels. I build quite a bit of WWII to Modern Russian armor and I found this mixture to work better when it came to assembling and finishing the rear fuel drums. I usually use either cement thinned down Tamiya Putty or the Tamiya Primer G but I think I like this way more.
To save a bit on how much glue you're using, similar results can be achieved by saving the shavings from sanding, and at a couple drops of glue to it, mix with an old razor or toothpick, and apply the paste as he shows here. . Shot glasses are super cheap at thrift stores and can be cleaned fairly easily afterwards. But this would work well if you've got some seriously large areas to fill over, not just a small divot or gap to fill. Update: did this myself on three sets of 4 legs, the thigh and calf needed filling both on edges and ends. Made way too much, in the future I'd mix up maybe a pea or peanut size of plastic trimmings at most and 3-5 drops of glue. On the plus side, using a shot glass meant I could cover the top and the mix was still useable after 3 nights, though needed a couple drops of glue to thin it (becomes almost like chewing gum on a hot day after that long). Took a bit of trimming and sanding, but otherwise the results are very good results with only a couple of the larger gaps needed a second layer. What's interesting is that on a smaller gap, the excess can be smoothed across the surface of the part, and only a bit of sanding is needed after.
@@kaustubhshetty4950 Wonderful contribution to the discussion. I wanted to try this with a small batch and this is a great way to go about it. Thank you.
@@pablogonzalezhermosilla4210 the thing is in India the hobby model making industry is super small, so we don't have a lot of model making materials or cements, and when asked for cements we usually get are the construction ones 😅. So if I can know the chemical base for the glue or cement you guys are using..I can search using that chemical's name. I apologise if the question's a bit dumb 😅😅
An excellent addition to everybody's toolkit is a "nano glass nail file", basically 2000 Grit on a small glass stick. There are also called Nails shine buffers. They do a incredible job and they are very cheap
This is by far the most concise and effective method I've come across. Excellent solution, I've never seen anyone even try this. Thank you, great video
Thanks for the great tutorial! For anyone who was wondering like I was, the glass jar is specifically a Tamiya Paint Mixing Jar that seems to run around $3 to $8 USD depending on what size you're looking to purchase. Seems like USA Gundam Store and Amazon carry it at first glance. I'm sure more places do as well.
@@natcroix7544 most of the newer kits have their blemishes hidden. Its pretty hard to explain in detail but you should try building old kits vs new kits
Good tutorial, thanks! I hate seam lines, especially when they are visible on aircraft nose cones... I will try your method since I hate putty either.))) Most handy video.
One thing I like to do is save the nubs when I cut out pieces. For a single divot or other imperfection, you can just liberally apply Mr. Hobby SP or Tamiya cement to the spot, then use tweezers to push a nub into the spot to fill it. Then, after it dries, you can come back at it and cut, file, sand, and buff. Most of the time, you won't be able to tell there was ever a problem. It works off the same principle as what's shown in the video while overall using less cement. No need to really make this plastic soup unless you're fixing a large area or doing seamline removal and don't plan on painting.
I prefer this technique: 1. Glue two pieces tohether 2. Let it dry 3. Mark damaged places with tape 4. Use putty 5. And smirk down all unnecessary putty
Great tutorial, the only thing I'd ask is that when sanding, when you change grades show the part to the camera before continuing the high speed. Definitely learned something though
Never thought I would see sprue goo used on Gunpla, this is a great use of it! I never would have thought of this, and I'm a scale modeler. Wonderful just how many skills transfer over. Great video on how to make this wonderful substance!
Very neat 👌, great explanation, concise, clear execution. QUESTION: how do you clean your brush from this new runner cement paste?? Same thinner as for paints? And in general, for people who can't access Tamiya cement; whats the best equivalent options as glue/thinners in an American hobby store?🤔
Probably the coolest tip video I've come across so far, as a relatively new custom gunpla hobbyist. I'm thinking you can also use this same process for loose joints, by adding plastic layers to the joint. Subscribed!!!
I watched this video around the time that you posted it and now I’m working on a kit that I want to take to a new level for me and this video came to mind so here I am! I wish I could hit like again. Thanks for the clear and concise tutorial 🤙🏾
I'm not into Gunpla, but there are plenty of seams I want to fix in my plane/tank/car models. Most solutions are nowhere as smooth as this, so I'll be using it!
A jar of acetone works to clean the bottle and brush, just remember to work in a well ventilated area and a respirator if needed. Acetone fumes are nasty.
I have a large jar of this on my bench, it just pulls out the jar when you're done without leaving anything visible, I use tamiya thinner then water to remove residues.
You have to sand it from low grit to high, the low is to remove nubs and such, the high is to remove scratches the low did and being back plastic shine, generally you would want to go 400>800>1000>1200
Question. Does it matter if it is tamiya cement or tamiya thin cement? Also, do you happen to know what the difference between the 2 is? I assume thin cement is just thinner?
you can use thin cements when joining extremely thin delicate parts such as kits from Hasegawa, but imo it's not very good when making such plastic paste for covering bigger damages
DO NOT USE cement that is not extra thin. In fact that Tamiya is not even the best one, but a Mr.Hobby Extra Thin is 100% solvent with 0% filler. See in order to add some thickness and viscosity to the solvent, companies add varying amounts of plastic resin into the mix. This additional plastic material can actually result in slight discoloring of the plastic you melt in it. It's fine if you are painting anyway, but then you don't even need to do this anyway, just get normal plastic cement and paint over. Last I checked only that mr.hobby has a pure solvent, most others add a small percentage of plastic, but it's also been a long time since I looked into them so may be wrong.
Thin cement (tamiya thin, tamiya extra thin, Mr Cement S, Mr Cement SP) all are designed to offgas and dry very fast making this especially difficult. I would stick with a standard cement. Tamiya Cement (the basic type shown in the video) is especially good for this because it's highly available and very cheap, as well as its viscosity is well suited to this. Mr Cement Deluxe is quite good at doing this without the runner putty, just outright welding the two parts together without all the madness of waiting hours for cement to melt plastic bits, wasting all the extra, and wasting the glass bottle that is prohibitively difficult to clean.
@@GeorgeHale1984 the point of makjing runner putty is a very niche and specific situations. it's for cases where you need to fill in some pretty big holes or gaps that normal cement would not help with and requires a thicker putty cement. By making the putty yourself out of runners it allows you to color match the model if you do not plan on painting. So, only for big holes/gaps and only if you have no plans to paint a model, it's not a use for everything tip, it's a seldom used but VERY useful when needed tip. I have used it once in a while and when I do need to, it's a god send. It's also great to used in cases of needing to reinforce and drill new holes for pinning a broken peg joint. And I have even seen one case of an absolute mad lad crafting a custom chest for an FA:G
I build mostly fighter jets and gunpla every now and then. this is a really nice way to remove seamline, save money on putty, easy to remove the excess and my favourite part is that this mixture re-scrible-able. Theres literally no downside to this mixture in my opinion and personal experience. ✌🏾
you would see a difference in tone, very slighty, but for example if the piece is dark, and you use light coloured plastic, or vise versa. Doesn't have to match %100 but if the piece is dark, us a dark plastic, if its grey, use a grey, if white or light, use that.
I think you may just apply modeling putty on those places, then spray a thin layer of liquid putty and you can paint on it without differences on color.
I learned how to do this as well from my friend, but instead of cutting small pieces from the runner, i make it into a powder through a blender, and then the rest is the same
How long do you find the mix lasts if left in the bottle? I was wondering if it maybe a good idea to make a few bottles of the main white and other colors to have on hand?
@@mtubr I made some white a blackish grayish one 2 days ago seem ok so far in going to make a small bottle with blue tonight and see set it off the side for 2 weeks and check then in a month.
@@GalironRunner keep us updated please. Im from brazil and its pretty hard to get a hold on these gundams. Now I have 3 new and 1 Perfect grade that requires repair. I'd like to make em pristine. Thank you in advance!
As someone familiar with the method, I would assume it would harden up within a week or two. Unless of course you had it stored in an air sealed container, the cement is just going to evaporate leaving behind the hard plastic. This is something that is just easier for me to mix up as I need it. Personally I don't mix up a slurry but instead shave off long slices of the sprue and apply just enough cement for it to get mushy. Apply it to surfaces that also had cement applied and it works well enough once you smoosh it down.
if i decide to fix using cement and sanding afterwards, do i have to paint the part to make all the sides look even as i wont be sanding all 4 sides of the arm. or is a top coat sufficent enough to make the part look even? im fine with seams but nub marks really bothers me as they're usually white in color. im just starting out and im only planing to give my model a wash and matt top coat.
If you are bothered by nub marks cut 1-2mm away from the part and sand down the nub, finishing with a very fine abrasive usualy leaves little to no mark, if there is a slight mark put some thin cement over the top and that will most likely fix it.
Matte top coat will be fine as long as you sanded the seams down nice and smooth. Matte is amazing for that, heck even if you painted some parts and left others bare, matte makes it impossible to tell what was and wasn't paint.
@@green2376-s7b sorry, only just noticed this, the type of abrasive does not matter much, but if you are polishing anything, 1,000+ grit should be fine enough that you do not notice the difference, sometimes on clear parts, or if you are polishing a metalic or transparrent paint you may want to go higher maybe 4,000, I usually use sanding sponges, something around 250 to remove the material, then something around 600 to remove out most of the marks, then wet sand at about 1,000 will usually completely get rid of the marks and blend it into the base plastic, although on lighter coloured plastics after removing the part from the sprue a flush cut with a fine-bladed, single edge nipper will not leave any visible nub.
Great video - now, I knew that little trick from before, but still well explained. A tip though: I use nail polish remover as plastic cement since it's faster and stronger than the tamiya cement. I don't even think I have any of that stuff left...
The only issue i would have with this is sanding the entirety of the peace at the end. it leaves you open to miss matched proportions if you're a little too heavy handed especially on smaller kits.
@@Not_Hans It's an ok solution if you've got no other options. I run out of putty halfway through my current project and couldn't afford to restock so this was very helpful. It is indeed a pain in the ass to sand but it's better than nothing.
would love to see how to planning if the model is to be airbrushs, since these step seems to perfect all gaps but it is harder to airbrush all the assembled pieces. careful planning is a must but how? any recommend? looking forward to a video.
It helps to assemble the kit before making any modifications. If not the whole kit, try sub-assemblies like the arms and legs. It’s easier to see what needs to be done on an assembled piece. Once assembled, make notes. This will help identify the order of operations for modifications and primer/painting. On HG kits this will usually require a lot of work (masking) due to minimal part separation. It's definitely a process but gets more streamlined the more kits you do. It's very seldom we continue to make the same mistake continually...hopefully 😀. Happy building!
Great vid! I use this to fix some Warhammer kits where the parts don't always join correctly and it works great. It's easier for Warhammer kits though coz the colour doesn't matter.
Short. Instructive. No wasted time. => A masterful tutorial.
How long have you two been dating?
@Hatori Ibuki what the fuck.
@@LunarTikOfficial 😳
@@LunarTikOfficial 😂😂😂
so are you gonna hit him back with a counter roast or nawh 🤷🏽♂️
And this kids is how I realized I can just recast the runners into replacement parts.
get a mold using blue stuff and you got lots of extra weapons
@@TwiGuy4 would the acetone melt the blue stuff?
Can't believe your wall in the UK was just made up of duped replacement parts :(
@@lester44444
Imao
@@andrewtheanimenerd
Potentially but it may not set correctly.
instead of wasting all that cement, I've found that just shaving a runner with a razor blade into a little glass or metal bowl then adding a little cement at a time, is less wasteful and breaks the plastic down faster. Always be cautious of the fumes this produces!
i think using a larger batch might be useful for an entire kit
any idea how long that stuff would last in the glass container? or will it dry up?
Is this work on any type / brand / thickness of cemment , or just tamiya ?
acetone does the same and no need for cement until you're ready to use it
What do you mean it creates fumes?
6:06 Look at his sanding skill. It's so fast!
4thrun z4la no doubt he is on trans am mode while sanding 😂
So fast it makes it look like he's running a belt sander!
Fadzil KJ Basri he’s covered himself in red paint
It’s so fast it’s like it’s in fast motion. Witch it is
@@DickieDs r/woosh
I got this recommendation out of nowhere
it's like youtube knows I bought MG Sinanju many years ago but never started putting it together
that's pretty rare now. you're probably in comfortable profit if you did wanna sell it :p
Is it rare?
Same, I just bought my first ever MS.
@@technicalerr0r 3 years later the video popped up again and my sinanju is still in the box untouched lmaoo
I don't think it's rare but I won't sell it anyway
It's a good thing I'm a weirdo who saved my runners and boxes, so now I can fix all the ones I first built.
you're not the only one
Oh tell me about it.
I did the same runners are really useful for making anttenas and stuff
It's great gum!
Everyone does that
I have been painting and modeling for 30+ years. I love it when i find something i didn't know and learned a new technique to take me to another level. Thanks man saves me a ton of time versus using putty to fill in the areas. Thank you for posting this i really do love learning something new. See you can teach us old dogs new tricks!
I second this.
If you are modelling aircrafts or armor that has a lot of clear pieces- dip it in gloss varnish, thank me later.
@@guyfriedman295 say what? Dip or run clear down the seams? I’m going to have to look into this 👍
@@FooshMan dip the canopy in gloss varnish
@@guyfriedman295 wait what? i am doing some clear gunplas here, you can just use gloss varnish for this? wow that's neat
Imagine when you finally fixed the seam and you forgot your polycap.
Bruh moment....
Oh that’s a nightmare
bruhhhhhhhh
Can that be fixed tho? Cutting the part and fixing the seam with the same solution?
Lester Walit ideally yeah but it’s definitely still a pain in the ass, and they aren’t very easy to get apart after. I’ve only had it happen once but I made sure it never happened again after lmao
This is basically the same principle as making you're own wood filler.
Thanks for the tip
Actually that finished piece looks so good that i'm considering doing this to remove seam lines on the kits i like the most, great video!
You can skip the step where you melt a bunch of plastic in a jar. That's just so you have enough material to fill in the blemishes.
You can remove seam lines from parts as you go by applying a bit of cement to each side of the part as you put them together. Hold together firmly with clamps/fingers for at least 60 seconds. Seam line will be 90% gone in most cases as the two pieces will be welded together as explained in the video. Sand and polish as needed,especially if any seam line remains
@@monkey4soul thx
@@monkey4soul but that stress mark tho. Either use this method or use a putty (if you'll be painting).
Lol if you're painting why worry about stress marks?
@@monkey4soul with nothing to fill it up, them tiny craters would still be there.
I work with other plastic model kits, but this tutorial equally applies. Fantastic demonstration and after 30+ years of constructing plastic models, I have never come across this concept. Fantastic!
_I work with other plastic model kits, but this tutorial equally applies._ My thoughts exactly. The video could've benefited from broader labeling as it's not unique to Gundam.
That said, this is a fairly established approach known as *sprue goo.*
Please make videos of your built models!!
Good old "sprue glue". Useful for most model kits based on polystyrene plastics.
In a pinch it can also work as gap filler in other materials as the substance essentially dries/cures back into polystyrene.
You actually taught me a super important detail of the plastic cements. Someone at the hobby store I visited claimed they can be used as a clear primer substitute. The fact that they actually melt the plastic certainly explains why it seemed to completely destroy the clear parts I applied it to. Hobby store employees don’t always know what they are talking about it seems. Lesson learned.
That's some horrible misinformation you had. I'm sorry you destroyed some of your clear parts.
It's hard for stores to find intelligent employees nowadays.
@@omegacon4 I wouldn’t go that far. I didn’t know any better than the employee. It’s likely just a job for them, a mindset I do not blame them for having in this day and age.
@@skyeguy7914 That tells me either you have never managed anyone at work (at least not to corporate standards of excellence) OR your work standards are incredibly low.
@@omegacon4 no, it means even as someone who has managed others, I recognize that it’s not worth busting your ass day in and day out to get paid absolutely nothing and still not be able to afford rent, let alone put food on your table. But this is a topic of conversation better had on a different comment section. Not on a video about a hobby that people do because they enjoy it.
I'm going to be honest, I started this video like, "OK, let's see what 'tips' this guy has.", but Bro, this is an amazing idea. I'm honestly, blown away at how smart this is.
Wow!
This is a very good idea using the Tamiya cement to melt the plastic, and then apply it on the area that needs to be cleaned up to (at the same time) remove the seam line, fill in dips, etc.
It's a good idea especially since you're using the same plastic the part came off of so there's no risk of discoloration or mismatched tones/shades from painting.
Awesome! 💯👍
@xxnike629xx But you still hoard boxes and refuse to build kits -_-
So glad I found this, I started building my first kit yesterday and accidentally filed some divots into a pretty visible spot. I was going to chalk it up to being my first kit but this gives me hope that I could fix it pretty painlessly!
I've done this since the 1970s. I'm astonished that other kit-stickers have never heard of it.
okay coach
The Tamiya airbrush cleaner also works for creating the sprue goo, and can actually be used in place of the cement. They're shockingly near identical compounds at ~99%.
Interesting technique. I've seen others apply the cement to 2 pieces and doing something similar but the idea of melting the plastic into a glue is cool.
There's a wealth of content on RUclips for Warhammer modelling and painting that can be applied to this hobby
Very nice. I don't build gunpla, but this is really useful info for filling gaps and mold lines on 40k vehicles and other big models.
your wallet is more dead than ours... respect+++
Eh I do both and yeah definitely
Warhammer builders are a different breed for sure.
Glad I came across this video. Not a Gunpla builder, I build armor and I found this application very helpful when it comes to having to use the kit's supplied barrels. I build quite a bit of WWII to Modern Russian armor and I found this mixture to work better when it came to assembling and finishing the rear fuel drums. I usually use either cement thinned down Tamiya Putty or the Tamiya Primer G but I think I like this way more.
To save a bit on how much glue you're using, similar results can be achieved by saving the shavings from sanding, and at a couple drops of glue to it, mix with an old razor or toothpick, and apply the paste as he shows here. . Shot glasses are super cheap at thrift stores and can be cleaned fairly easily afterwards. But this would work well if you've got some seriously large areas to fill over, not just a small divot or gap to fill.
Update: did this myself on three sets of 4 legs, the thigh and calf needed filling both on edges and ends. Made way too much, in the future I'd mix up maybe a pea or peanut size of plastic trimmings at most and 3-5 drops of glue. On the plus side, using a shot glass meant I could cover the top and the mix was still useable after 3 nights, though needed a couple drops of glue to thin it (becomes almost like chewing gum on a hot day after that long). Took a bit of trimming and sanding, but otherwise the results are very good results with only a couple of the larger gaps needed a second layer. What's interesting is that on a smaller gap, the excess can be smoothed across the surface of the part, and only a bit of sanding is needed after.
Any specific kind of glue you'd recommend for this?
@@kaustubhshetty4950 any high quality cement would do. They all work the same.
@@kaustubhshetty4950 Wonderful contribution to the discussion. I wanted to try this with a small batch and this is a great way to go about it. Thank you.
@@Mushicus 😁👍
@@pablogonzalezhermosilla4210 the thing is in India the hobby model making industry is super small, so we don't have a lot of model making materials or cements, and when asked for cements we usually get are the construction ones 😅. So if I can know the chemical base for the glue or cement you guys are using..I can search using that chemical's name. I apologise if the question's a bit dumb 😅😅
Now this is some God-like powers i have ever seen in gunpla history
Us in the 40k community have been doing this for years. We call it sprue glue it’s great for filling gaps and fixing mistakes before painting.
An excellent addition to everybody's toolkit is a "nano glass nail file", basically 2000 Grit on a small glass stick. There are also called Nails shine buffers. They do a incredible job and they are very cheap
That is amazing! It's like one solid piece, I'm definitely doing this with my master grades from now on.
To the point, no wasted time, clear explanations. This is the best, thanks!
This is by far the most concise and effective method I've come across. Excellent solution, I've never seen anyone even try this. Thank you, great video
Runner recycling is genius. Well done!
Thanks for the great tutorial!
For anyone who was wondering like I was, the glass jar is specifically a Tamiya Paint Mixing Jar that seems to run around $3 to $8 USD depending on what size you're looking to purchase. Seems like USA Gundam Store and Amazon carry it at first glance. I'm sure more places do as well.
Sprue goo using glue. Interesting choice. Definitely have to use disposable brushes.
Excellent! Time to step up my straight build skills.
Definitely be careful with the fumes! Had to do this outside, was getting lightheaded
I do this too... I call it Spru-Glue. Great tutorial!
Exactly what I needed, who knew runners had so many uses, no paint jobs needed 🙏😁
I'm glad you don't have to do this anymore on newer kits
Why?
@@natcroix7544 most of the newer kits have their blemishes hidden. Its pretty hard to explain in detail but you should try building old kits vs new kits
Nice craftsmanship. More work in the prep = greater results in the showcase.
I never knew Tamiya cement was used like this! Learned a lot from this video! 👍🏻
This approach works great. For smaller seams, stretched plastic sprue works really well too.
It's like a plastic putty, nice one.
This is going to up my gunpla skills insurmountably.
Im gonna give this a try next build
Thanks a ton! I was panicking when I nicked my rg Hi-V a couple of times, so this saved my build!
Thanks for this tip. Im gonna practice this to SD until perfection hehe
Nice tutorial. No wasted time as someone else said! Thanks!
Good tutorial, thanks! I hate seam lines, especially when they are visible on aircraft nose cones... I will try your method since I hate putty either.)))
Most handy video.
One thing I like to do is save the nubs when I cut out pieces. For a single divot or other imperfection, you can just liberally apply Mr. Hobby SP or Tamiya cement to the spot, then use tweezers to push a nub into the spot to fill it. Then, after it dries, you can come back at it and cut, file, sand, and buff. Most of the time, you won't be able to tell there was ever a problem. It works off the same principle as what's shown in the video while overall using less cement. No need to really make this plastic soup unless you're fixing a large area or doing seamline removal and don't plan on painting.
I prefer this technique:
1. Glue two pieces tohether
2. Let it dry
3. Mark damaged places with tape
4. Use putty
5. And smirk down all unnecessary putty
easier and faster,
You forgot to mention the neccessary step of painting, unlike the method shown in this video.
its kinda cool, a cheap and easy way for people without paints and primers and air brushes
Dude, I didn't even have a gunpla and still watch this tutorial.
So what Gunpla did you buy?
if u don't have much money, buy Daban gunpla like me
Become one of us!! It’s a lot of fun and relaxing and the end result is satisfying JOIN THE ADDICTION
Consider picking it up as a hobby! It can be very relaxing 😌
Very helpful especially for older kits.
Great tutorial, the only thing I'd ask is that when sanding, when you change grades show the part to the camera before continuing the high speed.
Definitely learned something though
I remember Hank Borger teaching about this in Car Model magazine. He called it "plastic-goo"
Just a passing interest in Gunpla, but this tutorial is top notch. You’ve really got a good style going here. Props!
Never thought I would see sprue goo used on Gunpla, this is a great use of it! I never would have thought of this, and I'm a scale modeler. Wonderful just how many skills transfer over. Great video on how to make this wonderful substance!
Very neat 👌, great explanation, concise, clear execution. QUESTION: how do you clean your brush from this new runner cement paste?? Same thinner as for paints? And in general, for people who can't access Tamiya cement; whats the best equivalent options as glue/thinners in an American hobby store?🤔
GW plastic glue or just plain acetone should do the same thing.
Probably the coolest tip video I've come across so far, as a relatively new custom gunpla hobbyist. I'm thinking you can also use this same process for loose joints, by adding plastic layers to the joint. Subscribed!!!
Imma try this on wireless earphones
I watched this video around the time that you posted it and now I’m working on a kit that I want to take to a new level for me and this video came to mind so here I am! I wish I could hit like again. Thanks for the clear and concise tutorial 🤙🏾
Never thought of that, damn
I'm not into Gunpla, but there are plenty of seams I want to fix in my plane/tank/car models.
Most solutions are nowhere as smooth as this, so I'll be using it!
Nice tutorial! Just a quick question: How would you go about cleaning the bottle once you're done with your fixes?
bump. Also good sir how would u clean the brush.
A jar of acetone works to clean the bottle and brush, just remember to work in a well ventilated area and a respirator if needed. Acetone fumes are nasty.
That cement give you a cancer, it's very dangerous, so do that outdoor guys! P.S. And use your mask ;)
This is in place of painting.
If you're going to paint, you don't need to blend in with the original plastic.
I have a large jar of this on my bench, it just pulls out the jar when you're done without leaving anything visible, I use tamiya thinner then water to remove residues.
i just started month's ago. and this really helps me on fixing the gaps.
Since hearing sanding was a part of gundum build I was wondering how that was, because I thought it would just destory the color.
from my experience they do discolour a bit on lower grit then you move gradually to higher grit and it looks smoother
You have to sand it from low grit to high, the low is to remove nubs and such, the high is to remove scratches the low did and being back plastic shine, generally you would want to go 400>800>1000>1200
Imagine doing this to all part.. Hard work and dedication
Those people are the type of people that enter Gunpla competitions lmfao or just someone who wants theirs looking nice
Question.
Does it matter if it is tamiya cement or tamiya thin cement?
Also, do you happen to know what the difference between the 2 is? I assume thin cement is just thinner?
thin cement dries faster you can also use Mr.Hobby as an alternative as well
you can use thin cements when joining extremely thin delicate parts such as kits from Hasegawa, but imo it's not very good when making such plastic paste for covering bigger damages
DO NOT USE cement that is not extra thin. In fact that Tamiya is not even the best one, but a Mr.Hobby Extra Thin is 100% solvent with 0% filler.
See in order to add some thickness and viscosity to the solvent, companies add varying amounts of plastic resin into the mix. This additional plastic material can actually result in slight discoloring of the plastic you melt in it. It's fine if you are painting anyway, but then you don't even need to do this anyway, just get normal plastic cement and paint over. Last I checked only that mr.hobby has a pure solvent, most others add a small percentage of plastic, but it's also been a long time since I looked into them so may be wrong.
Thin cement (tamiya thin, tamiya extra thin, Mr Cement S, Mr Cement SP) all are designed to offgas and dry very fast making this especially difficult. I would stick with a standard cement. Tamiya Cement (the basic type shown in the video) is especially good for this because it's highly available and very cheap, as well as its viscosity is well suited to this. Mr Cement Deluxe is quite good at doing this without the runner putty, just outright welding the two parts together without all the madness of waiting hours for cement to melt plastic bits, wasting all the extra, and wasting the glass bottle that is prohibitively difficult to clean.
@@GeorgeHale1984 the point of makjing runner putty is a very niche and specific situations. it's for cases where you need to fill in some pretty big holes or gaps that normal cement would not help with and requires a thicker putty cement. By making the putty yourself out of runners it allows you to color match the model if you do not plan on painting.
So, only for big holes/gaps and only if you have no plans to paint a model, it's not a use for everything tip, it's a seldom used but VERY useful when needed tip. I have used it once in a while and when I do need to, it's a god send. It's also great to used in cases of needing to reinforce and drill new holes for pinning a broken peg joint. And I have even seen one case of an absolute mad lad crafting a custom chest for an FA:G
Finaly ... something that able to fix my old gunpla ...
Imagine what you can do with a translucent tree like what the beam saber blades come on.
This idea is borderline sexual.
@@8thlvlMage I don't even know how that is. Unless I should have said "...came attached to."
I build mostly fighter jets and gunpla every now and then. this is a really nice way to remove seamline, save money on putty, easy to remove the excess and my favourite part is that this mixture re-scrible-able. Theres literally no downside to this mixture in my opinion and personal experience. ✌🏾
But if i am to paint my model, the color of the runner that i'll be using is not going to matter right?
i think it depends on if you would do a base coding first
you would see a difference in tone, very slighty, but for example if the piece is dark, and you use light coloured plastic, or vise versa. Doesn't have to match %100 but if the piece is dark, us a dark plastic, if its grey, use a grey, if white or light, use that.
But if you could, use the same color runner first and then just paint it
I think you may just apply modeling putty on those places, then spray a thin layer of liquid putty and you can paint on it without differences on color.
Use multiple different tone primers so it doesn't matter what is underneath.
Glad this video exists. I found an old HG tallgeese 3 kit, and I'm definitely going to need to apply the techniques listed here 😅
I learned how to do this as well from my friend, but instead of cutting small pieces from the runner, i make it into a powder through a blender, and then the rest is the same
You could also use baking soda to the same effect.
Cool video, I have been doing this since the 80s when you tube was not around.
Thank you for sharing
I didnt know you were the Flash bro
Genius. Applies to any plastic models. You gunpla folks know your stuff
how long does the “extra” clement mixture stay viable? it be nice to have some on hand at all times
As long as you store it in an air-tight container it should last a long time. If it starts to thicken up just add a bit more liquid cement.
I've had some mixed up for a couple of years now. Like Tarasdad said, keep it in an air tight jar....ready to go at all times.
If it thickens, add a little acetone.
@@cofrbooboo ty for this info
Im going to buy my first gunpla and Im already watching this,Nice video
10/10 works with instant ramen noodles.
Holy christ I finally found a simple solution to this problem thank freaking God losing my mind over seam and stress marks
How long do you find the mix lasts if left in the bottle? I was wondering if it maybe a good idea to make a few bottles of the main white and other colors to have on hand?
I´d like to know that too
@@mtubr I made some white a blackish grayish one 2 days ago seem ok so far in going to make a small bottle with blue tonight and see set it off the side for 2 weeks and check then in a month.
@@GalironRunner keep us updated please. Im from brazil and its pretty hard to get a hold on these gundams. Now I have 3 new and 1 Perfect grade that requires repair. I'd like to make em pristine. Thank you in advance!
yeah keep us posted
As someone familiar with the method, I would assume it would harden up within a week or two. Unless of course you had it stored in an air sealed container, the cement is just going to evaporate leaving behind the hard plastic.
This is something that is just easier for me to mix up as I need it. Personally I don't mix up a slurry but instead shave off long slices of the sprue and apply just enough cement for it to get mushy. Apply it to surfaces that also had cement applied and it works well enough once you smoosh it down.
Hands down my favorite seam and nub mark removal. It's simple and it works. I keep watching it to make sure I did it right lol
good idea!
なるほど、これは良いアイデア！
今度やってみよう（￣▽￣）
日本人見っけた！
めちゃくちゃいいアイデアですよね！
@@けんてぃうす その素晴らしいアイデア！
i just ordered 2 gunpla and is my first time building ty this is really helpful
if i decide to fix using cement and sanding afterwards, do i have to paint the part to make all the sides look even as i wont be sanding all 4 sides of the arm. or is a top coat sufficent enough to make the part look even? im fine with seams but nub marks really bothers me as they're usually white in color. im just starting out and im only planing to give my model a wash and matt top coat.
If you are bothered by nub marks cut 1-2mm away from the part and sand down the nub, finishing with a very fine abrasive usualy leaves little to no mark, if there is a slight mark put some thin cement over the top and that will most likely fix it.
Matte top coat will be fine as long as you sanded the seams down nice and smooth. Matte is amazing for that, heck even if you painted some parts and left others bare, matte makes it impossible to tell what was and wasn't paint.
Terry Forsdyke what kind of sand paper should I use to rub it down with?
@@green2376-s7b sorry, only just noticed this, the type of abrasive does not matter much, but if you are polishing anything, 1,000+ grit should be fine enough that you do not notice the difference, sometimes on clear parts, or if you are polishing a metalic or transparrent paint you may want to go higher maybe 4,000, I usually use sanding sponges, something around 250 to remove the material, then something around 600 to remove out most of the marks, then wet sand at about 1,000 will usually completely get rid of the marks and blend it into the base plastic, although on lighter coloured plastics after removing the part from the sprue a flush cut with a fine-bladed, single edge nipper will not leave any visible nub.
Great video - now, I knew that little trick from before, but still well explained. A tip though: I use nail polish remover as plastic cement since it's faster and stronger than the tamiya cement. I don't even think I have any of that stuff left...
The only issue i would have with this is sanding the entirety of the peace at the end. it leaves you open to miss matched proportions if you're a little too heavy handed especially on smaller kits.
So what would you do? I’m not starting lol just trying to get some ideas together 👍
@@toker2k the method in it self is good but sanding the entirety of the peace can yield issues.
I personally use tamiya putty on my kits.
@@Not_Hans what makes sanding putty different from cement? is putty easier to sand?
@@hargarlar yes it's a lot easier to sand compared to melted plastic.
@@Not_Hans It's an ok solution if you've got no other options. I run out of putty halfway through my current project and couldn't afford to restock so this was very helpful. It is indeed a pain in the ass to sand but it's better than nothing.
This is legit what I've been looking for. A quick trick to help me get rid of seam lines. Thnx so much
無塗装派には最高だ！
The result is so clean, great tutorial.
would love to see how to planning if the model is to be airbrushs, since these step seems to perfect all gaps but it is harder to airbrush all the assembled pieces. careful planning is a must but how? any recommend? looking forward to a video.
It helps to assemble the kit before making any modifications. If not the whole kit, try sub-assemblies like the arms and legs. It’s easier to see what needs to be done on an assembled piece. Once assembled, make notes. This will help identify the order of operations for modifications and primer/painting. On HG kits this will usually require a lot of work (masking) due to minimal part separation. It's definitely a process but gets more streamlined the more kits you do. It's very seldom we continue to make the same mistake continually...hopefully 😀. Happy building!
This a great technique that works with ships and planes as well.
TLDR: This is an incredibly common building technique with Warhammer models. The substance is often refered to as "spruegoo".
Great vid! I use this to fix some Warhammer kits where the parts don't always join correctly and it works great. It's easier for Warhammer kits though coz the colour doesn't matter.
6:10 if I could move my hand that fast I'd never leave the house.
I'd never be able to leave the hospital.
I didn't even know that you can actually do this.. really great tutorial
Imagine accidentally dropping your fully built plamo into a bucket of Tamiya cement...
Glasses&Mouthplates I think there was a subplot in a gundam build fighters ova about this once.
@@Rikarikun a member of that GM mafia tried to convince the Meijin to fight in water, but he said that the water was Tamiya cement
Think I heard of someone doing that with their gundam’s head by accident.
What a fantastic way of fixing seam lines. I am going to try that. Thanks
Interesting, but seems like overkill if you're gonna paint the pieces anyway.
If you're going to paint anyway skip the step to make it the same colour as it's just going to be clear cement anyway so primer will cover it
You'll see the blemishes even more when it's painted 😂
there is no doubt that you are a master