All you need to change it to Ver:Ka is 1. 10x "No Step" decal 2. 10 x "Caution" decal 3. 10 x "EFSF@Zeon" decal 4. 10 x "Danger" decal 5. 10 x "Hot" decal 6. 10 x racing stripes with chrome paint Apply anywhere as desired.
Patience is definitely a huge one. If you are sitting there building the kit, and find yourself already thinking about the next step before you finish the current one; stop, and take a break. Be in the moment, and enjoy the build at every step. I built maybe 6-7 kits (got back into gunpla 4/22) before I realized I was doing that. Now I make sure to step away, and let it simmer for a bit before diving back in. Has helped tremendously in eliminating imperfections.
POSING! Yes! No point in expecting Bandai to make kits with great articulation if one is not going to take advantage of it! The derpiness from bad posing also just detracts from the whole experience as well. It's as much a building as a viewing experience.
And even if you're not one who likes to make dynamic crazy poses there's still making a really powerful, cool looking stand or crouch pose to keep it in that'll be impressive.
yeah, a lot of builders esp on reddit or insta, and sometimes reviewers puts the kits standing in a very derpy way. it takes away the awesomeness of the kits. u just need to spread the legs a little, twist the thighs outwards abt 15 degrees, put the chest forward, slightly bend the elbows, and head pointing down, and voila! cool standing pose
Great video! I would add: don't try techniques for the first time on expensive kits! Like try weathering a cheap HG kit first rather than a $400 PG; you will have more fun, seriously! Also, be sure to buy lots of kits and always have a massive backlog in case Bandai decides to stop producing kits and only poops out P-Bandai for 6 months or so.
I just did my first panel line, got the cheapest HG that I could find; ended up going with the HG Barbatos Lupus. It turned out great, but it was still just practice before going on to the RG RX-93-v2 Hi-Nu- I've just started working on that one.
Ive built quite a few kits by now and still dont feel comfortable making a custom gundam yet, however i gotta say the 30 minute mission kits are quite easy to mix and match; find enough kits the same color and you dont have to paint either.
When it comes to customs you just gotta jump in on a simple repaint and go from there. That’s how I started and now I’ve got some custom parts, a few kitbashes, etc.
The trick is to experiment on cheap kits that you don't care about. Grab some no grade wing/g-gundam kits from the 90s and experiment with the hobby saw, dremel, clippers, sanding etc. That goes for learning to paint too. Edit: You might even find some broken kits in thrift store toy bags. I've certainly seen some.
Acrylic paint being “weaker” than enamel and lacquer paint does not mean acrylic paint can be rubbed away with with acrylic or enamel thinner after it dries
Like everything, it's using the right paint for the job. Vallejo makes an acrylic line specifically for mecha painting that is more durable and has a better bonder than the other lines which are specifically for mini wargaming and model kits.
@@Dstinct More specifically, the Mecha line bonds better to plastic compared to their Model and Game lines. Model Color on primer should be on par or better than Mecha Color on bare plastic.
After all these years I still consider myself a beginner. I prefer straight building and make the panel lines with a mechanical pencil (they look pretty good actually). The only kit I ever fully painted was an NG Mercurius that I found at a second hand shop. Someone just ripped all the pieces of the runners, tried to build without looking at the instructions, and just threw the half built poor thing back in the box with the rest of the pieces. Plus I hated the bright red. He looks much better now (to my eyes at least).
I've build like almost 80 kits since I re-started in 2014 (Gunpla, Zoids, Tamiya mini 4WD etc.). I have gained a lot of experience and tips from friends. One thing that I still want to try is scratch building. I've watched SO MANY videos about it and I just can't bring myself to start doing it. I'm just sharing lol its like 11pm here and I'm VERY sleepy.
I've done a few scratch builds and they are time intensive as hell, so don't be to ashamed about not starting it because it demands serious commitment. Hell, Zak here had to stop his Trash to Treasure series because of how intensive that project got.
Think of it like you were using construction paper as a kid doing arts and crafts just with pla plates instead. Choosing the thickness, drawing out your shapes, and cutting them out and gluing them together. Then sanding or filling or both, and then painting. Just like the construction paper it takes time, patients, and the correct tools but you can do it if you try. I would recommend something easy to start with and then work your way out to other more difficult designs. Happy building.
one of the biggest common mistake for me is "you forgot to put the polycap/that part inside that part".... I've already built more than 20 kits and this common mistake always ALWAYS happens LMAO
Or you use that slightly wrong peice and then have to get it apart enough to replace it. You see a gun handle so you put on a gun; then you realize it’s upside down or it’s the wrong handle for that gun.
Sometimes the problem that I faced in Gunpla Building are: -Parts always slip in my hands that cause to fall down and break pieces -Snapping together very hard that some sockets have crack and very loose connection -Whenever I paint, my hand always shake and paneling straight lines are very hard -Last thing is my artistic sense, (right color combination, sanding/filing too much - as Zack says simple is better, but in my head I don't want to be mediocre). But I'll try to improve even it take years, since this is a hobby that I enjoy.
The flying piece is the worst. Best advice for that is to have a clean work space(so it’s easy to find if it falls) and cut in a tray or box to avoid losing pieces that go flying with a snip
Me : - cutting my own hand fingers☝ - make a scratch on part (is now rare cause experiences)✌ - bad sense of colour 3️⃣ - splash my own blood on part cause the mistake number 1 4⃣ - scratch too much when sanding 5⃣
Speaking of losing small parts and inflicting injuries. Last month I'm working on this figure rise standard kit and it fell under my table. I tried to quickly find it in the carpet but problem the part is black and very small. Also didn't notice my hobby knife fell off the table and stab my feet (I'm wearing these soft indoor slippers and it pierce through it). Lesson learned, always tidy your table and make sure every thing is organized and always have first aid kit supply besides your working station while doing model kit.
Loose parts are also the worst. One of my kits has a peice of runner for a faceplate becuase that stupid thing just flew and by the time I found it to glue it fell again and into the void it went.
i'm kinda a "freak" maybe... because i don't paint my models ( just little painting on some spots), i like the toyish looking on them after finish building, im surely not considered a builder at all because that... anyway i love to pose them, i even think about the pose when im buying the kit ♥
I’ll be honest. The whole don’t rush things is big. The build is the enjoyment. I will say that this is a hobby you can total enjoy without a lot of painting. Learn to panel line and do a little touch up with a Gundam marker and you will have some great kits. Also, the whole panel lining on bare plastic weakening plastic is a silly myth. Panel liners are just a paint(ink really but not much different). If panel lining weakened plastic then fully painting a model would do the same thing. The reason panel lining on raw plastic may not be great is raw plastic doesn’t have a good base coat for ink or paint to stick to. A primer coat helps a lot. But to be honest, panel lining isn’t about getting solid colors and distinct lines anyways. You want it to fade mostly after you apply. It’s just shading enhancement. So not adhering great may be seen as an advantage.
Tamiya Panel Liner on my RG Force Impulse. I probably used excessive panel liner or too much X20 thinner, but the white antenna, front curved blue chest piece and backend wing section cracked on with just the slightest touch. I'd practice caution, still. I am now experimenting in assembling > decal application > top coating > panel lining > panel lineing cleanup > final top coat on my HG Beyond Global. If I see no parts cracking or plastic brittling, then this will be the way to go for me. Speaking from personal experience, it can happen. Either due to too much panel liner or too much thinner for too long of a time.
Beware don't use gundam marker, tamiya panel liner or any alcohol based type paint on ABS it will most definitely crack. Polystyrene PS plastic is pretty good doesn't have same weakness as ABS plastic. ABS should top coated first before paint. Oil based gundam marker is fine.
Tamiya panel liner contains enamel. Although bandai makes a lot of awesome kits it doesn't escape the fact that there are weakness in the plastic not visible to the naked eye. Putting a small dab of liner on one end of a panel line is normally fine. However if you put too much the tamiya can cause the plastic to break. So be mindful of how much you are applying. It helps to top coat your kit with a gloss coat. That will protect the model if you want to be safe.
In my case i've only used Tamiya panel line accent on two kits so far and haven't had a problem. I do the clean up with lighter fluid instead of enamel thinner. From what i've heard it's the thinner that often causes the cracks. That and also using too much. You can probably be more liberal with the stuff if you top coat first.
thats really weird about panel lining on bare plastic. It's never happened to me; I've never even heard of panel lining causing part breakage until now. Is it due to the plastic reacting to the chemicals in the gundam marker paint?
There are two big tips if you want to panel line without painting. First, use acrylic paints, acrylic thinner will not damage the plastic the way enamel thinners can. Second, if you really want to use something like Tamiya panel liner, use lighter fluid instead of enamel thinner, it will remove the excess paint without damaging the plastic.
I actually think with "less is more" that there's a deeper root issue. I describe it as "intention over application." I think this much better explains why builds with more weathering look worse from beginners as what I've found is that people are weathering without thinking about how or why the weathering is being applied there; no reasoning or intention of what they want the kit to look like. One of the results of "less is more" that I've sometimes seen anecdotally is the idea that there's an arbitrary threshold of weathering that now is bad looking, regardless of how skillful it was done. More importantly, I've found in gunpla and MaK circles that asking people how the weathering happened leads to them both restraining themselves naturally as they sit and think more, but also making way more interesting ideas come to life and looking like it really happened on our tiny giant robots. :D
Not sure what is driving some with their almost anal obsessions with removing seam lines. These are wielding lines that are commonplace in any factory-built product. Gundams are manufactured at a facility, not born in a bio-mechanical womb.
Im still waiting for more G Gundam kits, Bandai. The Death Army wasn't enough. Soaring Raven Gundam Grand Gundam Walter Gundam Devil Gundam Plus the Death Birdie and the Death Navy
@@rhaeasoul8531 I agree, but completing the Dark Gundam's forces takes priority. Id say that Bandai would have a problem cuz of the country based Gundams, but of they're in Gundam Breaker Mobile, they can be made into HGFC Kits. I would also add Shadow Gundam, Howe Gundam, Neros Gundam, Royal Gundam, and the Ultimate Gundam As well as the old Shuffle Alliance
I think it kinda falls into a political issue and Japan has shown they don’t really care about some butt hurt snowflakes. The main designs aren’t even that offensive really. Maybe India and America but the cobra Gundam is minor and Japan doesn’t care what American Twitter thinks; those losers are too busy complaining about everything else anyway.
Haha plus it's a future where hong kong exists and wins the gundam tournament, sounds more like a nightmare for Chinese these days than the dystopian dream world it is for the rest of us. The Kowloon Gundam haunts them;)
Secrets in building gunpla kits is patience, right tools, and knowledge to avoid mistakes, man it's like an engineers job lol my dad is engineer btw🤣🇵🇭
Same thoughts hahaa i remember when i was a kid mag tagalog na nga ako hahaha nung wla pa masyado ako alam sa gundam nag built ako 1st gundam yung 00 seravee manu manu lng sayang lng sira na dahil impatient ako nun and dabi numb marks nung binalikan ko after 13 year i learn from mistakes so need talaga correct tools para mag build ng gundam kahit ngayon still learning now im learning how to use spray paint or airbrush
Out of laziness due to how much I hated (and I still do) to deal with nubs, I hardly ever sanded and 99% of the times sliced them off with a hobby knife. As a result, I was prone to accidentally shave off part of the plastic. I was prone to not mind it much, but now that near all of my old OOB builds are in a "part-yard" to be used for proper customs, I wish I fixed them properly right away. The time I've "saved" dealing with the nubs this way, wasn't saved but delayed later in fixing those surface imperfections with putty.
About panel lining on bare plastic, I always suggest those pour type gundam markers, they're super easy to use, you can clean up using Isopropyl alcohol and it's safe for bare plastic and they're as cheap as those fine tip regular gundam markers for panel lining, with a much better result that end up pretty similar to Accent Color
Customized is not a bad start I think when you already build a lot kit. But when you are beginner like me, scratch building custom kit is not really something I recommend... Try kit bash and custom paint first maybe good but scratch build is no. You need a lot experience first for that. Trust me.
Oh yeah. My first was just a barbatos with some parts moved. Now I’ve got a core custom I’m building that part of one of its armors is a reaper theme including a crow machine backpack.
@@rhaeasoul8531 Same here, in my case my first custom, Is mix part Astaroth with some other ibo armor and weapons. And the results is not bad if I say..
True patience is a key factor to build ur gunpla neatly and better since i built many gundams my house and i have backlog too since i coztumise the other ones like hg rx 78 2 beyond global
Oh yep that definitely happens to everyone! Still happens to me every now and then! Sucks to be assembling painted parts and realize you need to take them apart and go paint more cause you missed a tiny bit that you didn’t think would show!
True i feel u men hahaha now im using super glue for tightening the parts since i learned how to use it that in another way and im using cemet now base on my experience alll this years
As someone who prefers straight-assembled gunpla kits, I've never had a problem with panel lining on bare plastic. Maybe it's because I only use panel liner gundam markers and a mechanical pencil. I'm not really familiar with how the tamiya panel line accent interacts with bare plastic though... I think it depends on which panel liner a builder uses.
I've done 15+ kits from different manufacturers using gundam panel-lining markers, and not one of them suffered plastic damage. I do have it on very good authority though that enamel-based liners such as Tamiya's Accent Color should not be used on bare plastic (their website says the same). Presumably the "oil-based" Gundam markers (looking at the marker I was just using for a 30mm kit) are a different formulation from the enamels used in Tamiya liner. On the other hand, I just took another look at the Gundam marker and it has a little warning that says "may cause cracking when used on ABS plastic". Something to remember the next time I'm doing a Kotobukiya kit, since those guys use tons of ABS...
@@notatallheng Made this mistake on my first build. Used Tamiya Accent Color on bare plastic on my Ver Ka RX-78-2. Some people say it's fine but my beautiful boy's face, hand, and a leg facet have all snapped and the more I manhandle the model it's just a matter of time before it's all broken apart. Top coat ordered for next time, live and learn!
Just built my first kit tonight for the first time since last year January. I found myself being quite impatient and that led to a less than great result, so great timing with the video. I've been building for years before my break and this is just the type of video I need to get back into my flow.
as far as proceeding too quickly too fast is concerned you dont have all the tools right off the bat. get your tools as you experiment and by the time you have all the tools to custom build or kitbash you should have tinkered with nubmark removal, seamline removal, etc
I hate that debacle so much. The "Gunpla is Freedom" thing was meant to say that all ways to customize a gunpla are all equally as valid fun. Then people took the "ways to have fun" as in not bothering to build beyond OOB because they are fine with the fun and relaxation of that already, which is of course, entirely fine. There's nothing wrong with not wanting to "bother" one self further than OOB. More than half gunplas ever sold remain in that condition. They're already well presentable out of the box thanks to Bandai's gradually higher efforts to help at that. Is fine to even purposely leave nubs or whatever. Is your kit, to do what you want with it, and amuse yourself however you like. Is the fun you have. That's the freedom. But pretending to have done something better than what you did without having even bothered to put effort, is where the iffy stuff lays on. Why the heck should I congratulate someone that explictly dismissed a basic thing? "How did I do?" [Image of kit with nubs which levels of visibility and obviousness are comparable to the fanservice of an anime's beach episode] You did lazily and you know it you heckin silly goose.
this could help too. I believe an estimate of time spend on a kit could help, for example: this SD will take 1 hour to build and this HG like 10 hours. Yes I know it is hard because there are many factors like the runners, the plastic, the level of the builders and so on but people usually are very busy and need to make schedules, so picking something that can use on his or her personal spare time can make his or her life a little better. Also taking breaks. I know long projects usually are a pain and people focus too much on finishing something that leave aside some elements that in the end will determinate how the kit will look. So if you are tired of arming, cleaning and painting all the gatling gun from the MGEX Unicorn ver. Ka. I think you better take a break and come back once you wanted to continue. This is only my thoughts
Broke some parts of my HG Strike Freedom (5th build). Maybe I need a new pair of hobby cutters. The one I'm using is a rusty plier from my dad's toolbox. And I build a few HG already including Xi.
I'll admit, I'm recently building gunpla using nothing but nail clipper, and it's as *disastrous* as you might expect. Don't worry though, it's just bootleg kit for experiment.
I remember when I first started building, I would straight up just rip the pieces off the runners like a caveman, without any tools. This is why my hg barbatos lupus ended up not having a dedicated weapon, thanks to the sword mace being broken right where the blade met the hilt.
@@Ballsdeep-xs5ls plucking the pieces of the runners are a bad idea tbh did that to side skirts of my astaroth always use a nipper to avoid some minor/major nub dmg
25 years ago I removed parts from the runners with bare hands and removed the nubs by using my front teeth. I was young, inexperienced and stupid. Now I spend 5-10 minutes just trying to perfectly remove nub and scratch marks using expensive nippers, multiple types of sandpaper file and buffers, only to realize the part will be covered up by another layer of armour. Now I'm old, experienced, and STILL STUPID. But building model kits was and always be fun.
Surprised not thinning your paint wasn't something that was brought up. Probably the noobest thing I did back in the day that I learned real quick haha
I got into it this year and mistakes I made: #1 - I bought a bunch of kits up front right away, thinking they were easy. It isn't. Each kit takes a long time and I have periods in my life where I don't have time for hobbies. Long story short, I have enough kits to last until the next ice age. #2 - Pay close attention to the instruction pictures. I would get frustrated trying to jam parts together but you really have to focus on those pics, hold the piece how it is shown in the picture and look at it from the angle shown and it will start to make sense. #3 - When you stop building, make a note in the directions where you stopped. Because you never know if you're going to pick it up tomorrow or life might intervene and you don't pick it up again for 6 months. So leave a note so you don't have to spend an hour figuring out where you left off. #4 - I bought a lot of paints and superfluous tools. I don't really get why people paint their gundams. The paint that they come with seems fine to me. OK I sort of get it. If you're an artist, you can use paint to add all kinds of cool details, weathering, battle damage etc. I might try that someday but for now I'm fine to just put them together. Thus I'm stuck with a lot of unneeded paint. #5 - Oh, and good a good imagination. I screwed up my second kit so bad but I kept it anyway. I just pretend that all the messed up arms, legs, parts were the result of a battle gone awry and this poor gundam is a survivor who went through some shit.
Weird suggestion, but speaking as a former art student, one thing that can help with your poses is looking at how scultures depict the human form. Model kit figures are essentially working with the same rules, just with difference materials. Similar to sculpting, posing forces you to account for a few things, how the human body rests (contrapposto), how the materials respond to gravity, and what supports the figure.
All model kits need patience I remember when i was primary school i always impatient when build tank kits, im always skip some parts for fast build lol 😂
The third kit I built was the Psycho Zaku Ver Ka. I immediately not only finished it in three whole days and killed the decals but also decided that it looked crappy with the stand on and thought that it would be a good idea to leave it in the top shelf. Surprise surprise, it fell and broke almost all the way, parts all over the floor even my mat that was far away. And now 5 years later since it's literally expensive and illusive in USA stores am waiting in Amazon lol
incorrectly putting a piece in the position is the biggest source of broken pieces. Also pulling parts apart by hand rather than using some kind of wedge like a brick separator to remove pieces will result in broken pieces.
There’s nothing wrong about being ambitious, being ambitious gives you a purpose, but to achieve that purpose you have to have enough knowledge and skills, otherwise it’s just pure ignorance and blind ego
Don't forget a fat wallet. You need high end equipment and tools if you aspire to achieve picture perfect outcome of your kits. And these brand name tools arent cheap.
Exactly. I’ve got a core custom right now with 3 planned armors, I want to customize a mg aegis Gundam with a more walker tank alt mode, if I can find one I’d love to make the mg turn x into a yugioh 5ds mech lord custom, Freddy Krueger claw out of calisto of shadow, etc.
@@basshibiki ah yes, generosity and richness are definitely what u need, I have several Tamiya paints, but mostly I use markers like Mr.Hobby, Sakura and Sharpie, Sharpie is the cheapest and Mr.Hobby definitely not cheap but miraculously, I have a gold one with me for almost 4 or 5 years, I guess sometimes u get more by paying more
Here's a little trick you can use to cover up white stress marks: Dab a bit of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (quick setting will work better), let it dry for like a minute, and the white spot will be significantly reduced (it will never go away completely without painting, but this is almost as good imo). Another trick (not sure about this one, but I saw it from my nipper's manual): If you have a single-bladded nipper, have the sharp edge face the sloped/diagonal part of the gate if there is one. Dunno if it makes a difference, but worth trying out.
Honestly as far as customizing, just Go wild, if you aren't afraid of making a few mistakes then just go for it, you'll never learn without experience. It's really not that serious.
I'm in the "casuals" bracket. I started Gunpla a* long time ago but I never really bothered on doing a fullblown custom gunpla.. I paint and modify some parts here and there but that's about it... I can relate to the PATIENCE part.. When I started painting, I didn't have the patience. For example, instead of testing the paint first i.e. painting a spare sprue or plastic, I painted the kit right away which ended in a bad result forcing me to start all over.. Back then, I also did not wait for the CURE time because I thought that the Dry time and CURE time were the same.. Turns out, CURE time takes much longer (some even hours or days depending on the paint) than Dry time (usually 5-10 minutes or up to an hour). Cure time is critical specially on chrome paints (my molotow takes 24 hours to cure as written in the direction).. Lesson, be patient and READ the directions carefully even if you've seen the paint in action on youtube...
For my i prefer lacquer paint if u paint since it takes only 1 to 2 hours for curing one of my gunpla coztumise have better outcome after finished it in a week
@@paolocasilag5942 Oh I see, 1 to 2 hours only? That's fast, nice! I used a variety of paints ever since I started.. I'm currently using the GW Citadel (acrylic) paints because I got into Warhammer 40K last year (they are miniature kits).. Sometimes I cheat by using hair dryer haha!
@@BGLoscar lol sanaol, sadley i dont have dryer hahaha i got buy my time waiting that dry after i built another one while waiting and it paid off but good thing is i layer many lacquer paint on the colored ones not included white to make glossy and became better and by on my research and tip it can melt abs unless ITS PC it cannot unless use that one layer or use primer to paint on abs ones
@@paolocasilag5942 I'm always confused in that part about Lacquer on ABS vs Lacquer on PC.. Like how do I even tell the type of plastic? Is it indicated on the sprue/ runner? I've tried lacquer on some kits and so far I haven't had issues.
Hi I got a question regarding the seamline removal. Is it normal that the connected pieces isn't alined or equally flat (I side is often higher than the other)
I know nothing about all this And sometimes have trouble understanding things so I’m sorry if it was stated in the video Can you use bits from one model and combine it with a second or third making your own? Is that what scratch building is?
Removing nub-marks has my brain conditioned to the point where whenever I see a nub on any plastic thing such as a LEGO piece I feel a little disgust and an urge to buff it out.
So I am sort of new to gunpla and have what is probably a dumb question. I haven’t watched the anime but like the idea of customising my models. What is the feeling around applying decals that are not anime accurate? Like how harsh are people going to be if I put at 06 on shoulder panels if the anime version of the gundam doesn’t have it, or if I put the wrong fraction logo on the wrong model?
"you need a lot of patience" Me with adhd: "welp, I don't have that but I do have hyperfocus! I once spent 4 hours straight lubing mechanical keyboard switches. Didn't take any break until they were all done lol" I've veen following this hobby for do long, I should really get around to buying and building at least one kit.
Just one more thing: when you're finished with your kit, and u r taking pics of it, PLEEZ, control your framing... on Instagram 98% of gunpla kits ALWAYS have feetm or beam sabers, or antennaes or the tips of theie wings amputated, and this draw me crazy. Where's the sense of posting pics with half feet, two thirds of beam sabers or just half of the wings in frame???? just move 1 foot away from it, and give us the COMPLETE picture, no?
Kinda' unique to me, but wargame models are not gunpla, and just because wargame models need paint and gunpla don't doesn't mean that gunpla are easier. Coming over from decades of 40k, I thought I could handle more modification than I thought. And while some skills transfer over (seam removal, spray can handling, weathering, plastic chemistry), gunpla needs far more skills, many of which are unique to itself.
1. patience I made a Gundam at 5 years old or 9 years old I dunno and I also made a lego set so ok. 2. clean up I clean up all the time. 3. ambition I don't wanna customize my gunpla. 4. painting I don't like painting gunpla. 5. panel lining trying to learn he is helpful
When we look at black (we humans) black is always a really *really* dark shade of a colour for example blue or purple is common because of the sky but you can use any. Something to Think about.
I always though panel lining the parts while they're still on the runners was easier, since it's harder to reach certain spots on assembled kits. Also, I've been wondering if it's better to apply top coat, while the pieces are still on the runners or when assembled?
Under applying or unevenly applying cement to close up a seamline. You're left with a mostly closed part that now has what looks like a bunch of holes in it wah wah. Not the end of the world but certainly a pain.
I still have a 1/144 Taurus from years back. Jumped from building to gluing to painting to gloss-coat spray. Where to start? Missed mold lines and seam lines cuz I didn't prime. Also glued parts after putting the polycap on wrong. Mixed paints of different types to get the desired tone. Sprayed on clear coat until the paint crusted. Older-Me would've had a field day.
I'm glad 3rd party kits exist. You can easily get some $5-6 1/144 kits for practicing your customizing skills. And their poor build quality can just act as a good learning experience as well. I kinda wanna make my own personalised mobile suit design by mixing and matching all of their parts together. One day
"You can't rush art" -That old guy from toy story 2 that fixed woody
I love to put 60 decals on one piece for that true katoki look
There can’t be any sticker outlines of the entire part is covered in them
All you need to change it to Ver:Ka is
1. 10x "No Step" decal
2. 10 x "Caution" decal
3. 10 x "EFSF@Zeon" decal
4. 10 x "Danger" decal
5. 10 x "Hot" decal
6. 10 x racing stripes with chrome paint
Apply anywhere as desired.
@@First-Name_Last-Name and then you scale it by x2 per scale
@@First-Name_Last-Name lmao
Nice shirt ZakuA!
Mistake no.1=>Spend 2000 usd in just 4 month
Patience is definitely a huge one. If you are sitting there building the kit, and find yourself already thinking about the next step before you finish the current one; stop, and take a break. Be in the moment, and enjoy the build at every step. I built maybe 6-7 kits (got back into gunpla 4/22) before I realized I was doing that. Now I make sure to step away, and let it simmer for a bit before diving back in. Has helped tremendously in eliminating imperfections.
Great advice
POSING! Yes! No point in expecting Bandai to make kits with great articulation if one is not going to take advantage of it! The derpiness from bad posing also just detracts from the whole experience as well. It's as much a building as a viewing experience.
And even if you're not one who likes to make dynamic crazy poses there's still making a really powerful, cool looking stand or crouch pose to keep it in that'll be impressive.
yeah, a lot of builders esp on reddit or insta, and sometimes reviewers puts the kits standing in a very derpy way. it takes away the awesomeness of the kits. u just need to spread the legs a little, twist the thighs outwards abt 15 degrees, put the chest forward, slightly bend the elbows, and head pointing down, and voila! cool standing pose
@@razrafz So, the basic standing pose you always see when buying a kit online?
@@elijahbruno2814 well yeah, but it works. but thats just one example
i did a killer queen pose for my god gundam
Great video! I would add: don't try techniques for the first time on expensive kits! Like try weathering a cheap HG kit first rather than a $400 PG; you will have more fun, seriously! Also, be sure to buy lots of kits and always have a massive backlog in case Bandai decides to stop producing kits and only poops out P-Bandai for 6 months or so.
yup I bought a handful of $10 HG rx-78-2 kits for this very reason lol
I do the same with Zeon kits. I don't like Zeon, so I don't feel bad messing them up potentially.
My Warhammer Pile of Shame is looking digustingly at my completed gunplas on the shelves.
I just did my first panel line, got the cheapest HG that I could find; ended up going with the HG Barbatos Lupus. It turned out great, but it was still just practice before going on to the RG RX-93-v2 Hi-Nu- I've just started working on that one.
EG kits exist for a reason.
(nah seriously, grab one, you won't care about it, but you can do what ever you want to it with out worry.)
Ive built quite a few kits by now and still dont feel comfortable making a custom gundam yet, however i gotta say the 30 minute mission kits are quite easy to mix and match; find enough kits the same color and you dont have to paint either.
I know how you feel brother
When it comes to customs you just gotta jump in on a simple repaint and go from there. That’s how I started and now I’ve got some custom parts, a few kitbashes, etc.
@@rhaeasoul8531 same ate 1st i didnt like after i finished one kit customize like my rg crossbone gundam manga colored i enjoyed it
The trick is to experiment on cheap kits that you don't care about. Grab some no grade wing/g-gundam kits from the 90s and experiment with the hobby saw, dremel, clippers, sanding etc. That goes for learning to paint too.
Edit: You might even find some broken kits in thrift store toy bags. I've certainly seen some.
@@frigginresulrum yep. I built a graveyard diorama using an old no grade and an iBo hg as MS remains.
Acrylic paint being “weaker” than enamel and lacquer paint does not mean acrylic paint can be rubbed away with with acrylic or enamel thinner after it dries
yup, just look at military models, their builders have been using acrylic paints as main colors and enamel as weathering effects for years.
Like everything, it's using the right paint for the job. Vallejo makes an acrylic line specifically for mecha painting that is more durable and has a better bonder than the other lines which are specifically for mini wargaming and model kits.
@@Dstinct More specifically, the Mecha line bonds better to plastic compared to their Model and Game lines. Model Color on primer should be on par or better than Mecha Color on bare plastic.
After all these years I still consider myself a beginner. I prefer straight building and make the panel lines with a mechanical pencil (they look pretty good actually).
The only kit I ever fully painted was an NG Mercurius that I found at a second hand shop. Someone just ripped all the pieces of the runners, tried to build without looking at the instructions, and just threw the half built poor thing back in the box with the rest of the pieces. Plus I hated the bright red. He looks much better now (to my eyes at least).
I might try panel with your technique just to see it
I just tried it, it's not half bad
I've build like almost 80 kits since I re-started in 2014 (Gunpla, Zoids, Tamiya mini 4WD etc.). I have gained a lot of experience and tips from friends. One thing that I still want to try is scratch building. I've watched SO MANY videos about it and I just can't bring myself to start doing it.
I'm just sharing lol its like 11pm here and I'm VERY sleepy.
I've done a few scratch builds and they are time intensive as hell, so don't be to ashamed about not starting it because it demands serious commitment. Hell, Zak here had to stop his Trash to Treasure series because of how intensive that project got.
Try the rg evas they are nothing short of awsome
Think of it like you were using construction paper as a kid doing arts and crafts just with pla plates instead. Choosing the thickness, drawing out your shapes, and cutting them out and gluing them together. Then sanding or filling or both, and then painting. Just like the construction paper it takes time, patients, and the correct tools but you can do it if you try. I would recommend something easy to start with and then work your way out to other more difficult designs. Happy building.
one of the biggest common mistake for me is "you forgot to put the polycap/that part inside that part".... I've already built more than 20 kits and this common mistake always ALWAYS happens LMAO
Or you use that slightly wrong peice and then have to get it apart enough to replace it. You see a gun handle so you put on a gun; then you realize it’s upside down or it’s the wrong handle for that gun.
Sometimes the problem that I faced in Gunpla Building are:
-Parts always slip in my hands that cause to fall down and break pieces
-Snapping together very hard that some sockets have crack and very loose connection
-Whenever I paint, my hand always shake and paneling straight lines are very hard
-Last thing is my artistic sense, (right color combination, sanding/filing too much - as Zack says simple is better, but in my head I don't want to be mediocre).
But I'll try to improve even it take years, since this is a hobby that I enjoy.
The flying piece is the worst. Best advice for that is to have a clean work space(so it’s easy to find if it falls) and cut in a tray or box to avoid losing pieces that go flying with a snip
Me :
- cutting my own hand fingers☝
- make a scratch on part (is now rare cause experiences)✌
- bad sense of colour 3️⃣
- splash my own blood on part cause the mistake number 1 4⃣
- scratch too much when sanding 5⃣
Speaking of losing small parts and inflicting injuries. Last month I'm working on this figure rise standard kit and it fell under my table.
I tried to quickly find it in the carpet but problem the part is black and very small. Also didn't notice my hobby knife fell off the table and stab my feet (I'm wearing these soft indoor slippers and it pierce through it).
Lesson learned, always tidy your table and make sure every thing is organized and always have first aid kit supply besides your working station while doing model kit.
@@losergamer7282 yeah I know that feeling [= =]
Loose parts are also the worst. One of my kits has a peice of runner for a faceplate becuase that stupid thing just flew and by the time I found it to glue it fell again and into the void it went.
i'm kinda a "freak" maybe... because i don't paint my models ( just little painting on some spots), i like the toyish looking on them after finish building, im surely not considered a builder at all because that... anyway i love to pose them, i even think about the pose when im buying the kit ♥
Hello from the Philippines!! Gunpla All day philippines!
I’ll be honest. The whole don’t rush things is big. The build is the enjoyment.
I will say that this is a hobby you can total enjoy without a lot of painting. Learn to panel line and do a little touch up with a Gundam marker and you will have some
great kits.
Also, the whole panel lining on bare plastic weakening plastic is a silly myth. Panel liners are just a paint(ink really but not much different). If panel lining weakened plastic then fully painting a model would do the same thing. The reason panel lining on raw plastic may not be great is raw plastic doesn’t have a good base coat for ink or paint to stick to. A primer coat helps a lot. But to be honest, panel lining isn’t about getting solid colors and distinct lines anyways. You want it to fade mostly after you apply. It’s just shading enhancement. So not adhering great may be seen as an advantage.
Tamiya Panel Liner on my RG Force Impulse. I probably used excessive panel liner or too much X20 thinner, but the white antenna, front curved blue chest piece and backend wing section cracked on with just the slightest touch.
I'd practice caution, still. I am now experimenting in assembling > decal application > top coating > panel lining > panel lineing cleanup > final top coat on my HG Beyond Global. If I see no parts cracking or plastic brittling, then this will be the way to go for me. Speaking from personal experience, it can happen. Either due to too much panel liner or too much thinner for too long of a time.
Beware don't use gundam marker, tamiya panel liner or any alcohol based type paint on ABS it will most definitely crack. Polystyrene PS plastic is pretty good doesn't have same weakness as ABS plastic. ABS should top coated first before paint. Oil based gundam marker is fine.
@@exia1407 Yep. Learned that the hard way 😬
Tamiya panel liner contains enamel. Although bandai makes a lot of awesome kits it doesn't escape the fact that there are weakness in the plastic not visible to the naked eye. Putting a small dab of liner on one end of a panel line is normally fine. However if you put too much the tamiya can cause the plastic to break. So be mindful of how much you are applying. It helps to top coat your kit with a gloss coat. That will protect the model if you want to be safe.
In my case i've only used Tamiya panel line accent on two kits so far and haven't had a problem. I do the clean up with lighter fluid instead of enamel thinner. From what i've heard it's the thinner that often causes the cracks. That and also using too much. You can probably be more liberal with the stuff if you top coat first.
Patience, and calmness are the keys build a Gunpla.
thats really weird about panel lining on bare plastic. It's never happened to me; I've never even heard of panel lining causing part breakage until now. Is it due to the plastic reacting to the chemicals in the gundam marker paint?
There are two big tips if you want to panel line without painting. First, use acrylic paints, acrylic thinner will not damage the plastic the way enamel thinners can. Second, if you really want to use something like Tamiya panel liner, use lighter fluid instead of enamel thinner, it will remove the excess paint without damaging the plastic.
Or denatured alcohol
I actually think with "less is more" that there's a deeper root issue. I describe it as "intention over application." I think this much better explains why builds with more weathering look worse from beginners as what I've found is that people are weathering without thinking about how or why the weathering is being applied there; no reasoning or intention of what they want the kit to look like. One of the results of "less is more" that I've sometimes seen anecdotally is the idea that there's an arbitrary threshold of weathering that now is bad looking, regardless of how skillful it was done. More importantly, I've found in gunpla and MaK circles that asking people how the weathering happened leads to them both restraining themselves naturally as they sit and think more, but also making way more interesting ideas come to life and looking like it really happened on our tiny giant robots. :D
Not sure what is driving some with their almost anal obsessions with removing seam lines. These are wielding lines that are commonplace in any factory-built product. Gundams are manufactured at a facility, not born in a bio-mechanical womb.
Big tip: buy a godhand…expensive but makes taking off nubs 90% easier
cool t-shirt 🇵🇭
Im still waiting for more G Gundam kits, Bandai. The Death Army wasn't enough.
Soaring Raven Gundam
Grand Gundam
Walter Gundam
Devil Gundam
Plus the Death Birdie and the Death Navy
The rest of shuffle alliance wouldn’t hurt either.
@@rhaeasoul8531 I agree, but completing the Dark Gundam's forces takes priority.
Id say that Bandai would have a problem cuz of the country based Gundams, but of they're in Gundam Breaker Mobile, they can be made into HGFC Kits.
I would also add Shadow Gundam, Howe Gundam, Neros Gundam, Royal Gundam, and the Ultimate Gundam
As well as the old Shuffle Alliance
I think it kinda falls into a political issue and Japan has shown they don’t really care about some butt hurt snowflakes. The main designs aren’t even that offensive really. Maybe India and America but the cobra Gundam is minor and Japan doesn’t care what American Twitter thinks; those losers are too busy complaining about everything else anyway.
Haha plus it's a future where hong kong exists and wins the gundam tournament, sounds more like a nightmare for Chinese these days than the dystopian dream world it is for the rest of us. The Kowloon Gundam haunts them;)
The real grade God Gundam is incredible
Secrets in building gunpla kits is patience, right tools, and knowledge to avoid mistakes, man it's like an engineers job lol my dad is engineer btw🤣🇵🇭
Same thoughts hahaa i remember when i was a kid mag tagalog na nga ako hahaha nung wla pa masyado ako alam sa gundam nag built ako 1st gundam yung 00 seravee manu manu lng sayang lng sira na dahil impatient ako nun and dabi numb marks nung binalikan ko after 13 year i learn from mistakes so need talaga correct tools para mag build ng gundam kahit ngayon still learning now im learning how to use spray paint or airbrush
mg kyrios shoulder shit man i shoved arms down and both arms gone wrecked
Out of laziness due to how much I hated (and I still do) to deal with nubs, I hardly ever sanded and 99% of the times sliced them off with a hobby knife.
As a result, I was prone to accidentally shave off part of the plastic. I was prone to not mind it much, but now that near all of my old OOB builds are in a "part-yard" to be used for proper customs, I wish I fixed them properly right away.
The time I've "saved" dealing with the nubs this way, wasn't saved but delayed later in fixing those surface imperfections with putty.
Everytime I accidentally do that or over sand I'm just like..welp..battle damage lol
Once, some embers from my cigarette fell on the chest cockpit and melted it.
Beam weapon damage it is.
Some of my older kits are still pretty spikey becuase all I did was cut the parts.
I improved my painting skills by painting warhammer 40k figures. And if i can improve my painting skills anyone can
About panel lining on bare plastic, I always suggest those pour type gundam markers, they're super easy to use, you can clean up using Isopropyl alcohol and it's safe for bare plastic and they're as cheap as those fine tip regular gundam markers for panel lining, with a much better result that end up pretty similar to Accent Color
But but....i thought gunpla is freedom, so a lot of nubmark is fine right?
I forgot... If you cannot get the kit to pose find a booze bottle for kits or dolls. Try break dancing posses. LOL.
Customized is not a bad start I think when you already build a lot kit.
But when you are beginner like me, scratch building custom kit is not really something I recommend...
Try kit bash and custom paint first maybe good but scratch build is no.
You need a lot experience first for that.
Trust me.
Oh yeah. My first was just a barbatos with some parts moved. Now I’ve got a core custom I’m building that part of one of its armors is a reaper theme including a crow machine backpack.
@@rhaeasoul8531
Same here, in my case my first custom, Is mix part Astaroth with some other ibo armor and weapons.
And the results is not bad if I say..
Patience is key. I’ve just recently started painting my kits using an airbrush and you CANNOT rush it.
True patience is a key factor to build ur gunpla neatly and better since i built many gundams my house and i have backlog too since i coztumise the other ones like hg rx 78 2 beyond global
why does it say Philippines on your shirt?
The mistake i made as beginner with painting was I didn't paint the underside of the edges. And because of that, the edges looked Terrible!
Oh yep that definitely happens to everyone! Still happens to me every now and then! Sucks to be assembling painted parts and realize you need to take them apart and go paint more cause you missed a tiny bit that you didn’t think would show!
also a noob mistake: using super glue to put together those old 80's kits instead of cement, lol.
True i feel u men hahaha now im using super glue for tightening the parts since i learned how to use it that in another way and im using cemet now base on my experience alll this years
As someone who prefers straight-assembled gunpla kits, I've never had a problem with panel lining on bare plastic. Maybe it's because I only use panel liner gundam markers and a mechanical pencil. I'm not really familiar with how the tamiya panel line accent interacts with bare plastic though... I think it depends on which panel liner a builder uses.
I've done 15+ kits from different manufacturers using gundam panel-lining markers, and not one of them suffered plastic damage. I do have it on very good authority though that enamel-based liners such as Tamiya's Accent Color should not be used on bare plastic (their website says the same). Presumably the "oil-based" Gundam markers (looking at the marker I was just using for a 30mm kit) are a different formulation from the enamels used in Tamiya liner.
On the other hand, I just took another look at the Gundam marker and it has a little warning that says "may cause cracking when used on ABS plastic". Something to remember the next time I'm doing a Kotobukiya kit, since those guys use tons of ABS...
@@notatallheng Made this mistake on my first build. Used Tamiya Accent Color on bare plastic on my Ver Ka RX-78-2. Some people say it's fine but my beautiful boy's face, hand, and a leg facet have all snapped and the more I manhandle the model it's just a matter of time before it's all broken apart. Top coat ordered for next time, live and learn!
Just built my first kit tonight for the first time since last year January. I found myself being quite impatient and that led to a less than great result, so great timing with the video. I've been building for years before my break and this is just the type of video I need to get back into my flow.
as far as proceeding too quickly too fast is concerned you dont have all the tools right off the bat. get your tools as you experiment and by the time you have all the tools to custom build or kitbash you should have tinkered with nubmark removal, seamline removal, etc
Toxic Beginners be like:
"nO!! GUnplA Is FReeDoM I HavE tHe FReeDoM to havE mY NUBs vIsiBle!!! *
I hate that debacle so much. The "Gunpla is Freedom" thing was meant to say that all ways to customize a gunpla are all equally as valid fun.
Then people took the "ways to have fun" as in not bothering to build beyond OOB because they are fine with the fun and relaxation of that already, which is of course, entirely fine.
There's nothing wrong with not wanting to "bother" one self further than OOB. More than half gunplas ever sold remain in that condition. They're already well presentable out of the box thanks to Bandai's gradually higher efforts to help at that.
Is fine to even purposely leave nubs or whatever. Is your kit, to do what you want with it, and amuse yourself however you like. Is the fun you have. That's the freedom.
But pretending to have done something better than what you did without having even bothered to put effort, is where the iffy stuff lays on.
Why the heck should I congratulate someone that explictly dismissed a basic thing?
"How did I do?" [Image of kit with nubs which levels of visibility and obviousness are comparable to the fanservice of an anime's beach episode]
You did lazily and you know it you heckin silly goose.
this could help too.
I believe an estimate of time spend on a kit could help, for example: this SD will take 1 hour to build and this HG like 10 hours. Yes I know it is hard because there are many factors like the runners, the plastic, the level of the builders and so on but people usually are very busy and need to make schedules, so picking something that can use on his or her personal spare time can make his or her life a little better.
Also taking breaks. I know long projects usually are a pain and people focus too much on finishing something that leave aside some elements that in the end will determinate how the kit will look. So if you are tired of arming, cleaning and painting all the gatling gun from the MGEX Unicorn ver. Ka. I think you better take a break and come back once you wanted to continue.
This is only my thoughts
Broke some parts of my HG Strike Freedom (5th build). Maybe I need a new pair of hobby cutters. The one I'm using is a rusty plier from my dad's toolbox. And I build a few HG already including Xi.
Snips make a world off difference
I'll admit, I'm recently building gunpla using nothing but nail clipper, and it's as *disastrous* as you might expect.
Don't worry though, it's just bootleg kit for experiment.
I remember when I first started building, I would straight up just rip the pieces off the runners like a caveman, without any tools. This is why my hg barbatos lupus ended up not having a dedicated weapon, thanks to the sword mace being broken right where the blade met the hilt.
meanwhile im doing the reverse, using my older plamo clippers to clip my nails lmao
@@Ballsdeep-xs5ls bruhhh we're the same
@@Ballsdeep-xs5ls plucking the pieces of the runners are a bad idea tbh did that to side skirts of my astaroth always use a nipper to avoid some minor/major nub dmg
25 years ago I removed parts from the runners with bare hands and removed the nubs by using my front teeth. I was young, inexperienced and stupid.
Now I spend 5-10 minutes just trying to perfectly remove nub and scratch marks using expensive nippers, multiple types of sandpaper file and buffers, only to realize the part will be covered up by another layer of armour.
Now I'm old, experienced, and STILL STUPID. But building model kits was and always be fun.
Surprised not thinning your paint wasn't something that was brought up. Probably the noobest thing I did back in the day that I learned real quick haha
I got into it this year and mistakes I made:
#1 - I bought a bunch of kits up front right away, thinking they were easy. It isn't. Each kit takes a long time and I have periods in my life where I don't have time for hobbies. Long story short, I have enough kits to last until the next ice age.
#2 - Pay close attention to the instruction pictures. I would get frustrated trying to jam parts together but you really have to focus on those pics, hold the piece how it is shown in the picture and look at it from the angle shown and it will start to make sense.
#3 - When you stop building, make a note in the directions where you stopped. Because you never know if you're going to pick it up tomorrow or life might intervene and you don't pick it up again for 6 months. So leave a note so you don't have to spend an hour figuring out where you left off.
#4 - I bought a lot of paints and superfluous tools. I don't really get why people paint their gundams. The paint that they come with seems fine to me. OK I sort of get it. If you're an artist, you can use paint to add all kinds of cool details, weathering, battle damage etc. I might try that someday but for now I'm fine to just put them together. Thus I'm stuck with a lot of unneeded paint.
#5 - Oh, and good a good imagination. I screwed up my second kit so bad but I kept it anyway. I just pretend that all the messed up arms, legs, parts were the result of a battle gone awry and this poor gundam is a survivor who went through some shit.
Do Gundam Markers weaken plastic when you use them on bare plastic? 😮
They can, yes
@@ZakuAurelius Oh noooo! Thanks for the reply! What do you recommend for panel lining?
Weird suggestion, but speaking as a former art student, one thing that can help with your poses is looking at how scultures depict the human form.
Model kit figures are essentially working with the same rules, just with difference materials.
Similar to sculpting, posing forces you to account for a few things, how the human body rests (contrapposto), how the materials respond to gravity, and what supports the figure.
All model kits need patience
I remember when i was primary school i always impatient when build tank kits, im always skip some parts for fast build lol 😂
Nice shirt zak
The third kit I built was the Psycho Zaku Ver Ka. I immediately not only finished it in three whole days and killed the decals but also decided that it looked crappy with the stand on and thought that it would be a good idea to leave it in the top shelf. Surprise surprise, it fell and broke almost all the way, parts all over the floor even my mat that was far away. And now 5 years later since it's literally expensive and illusive in USA stores am waiting in Amazon lol
Nice shirt, just saying. Where did you score that?
I made it! Haha it was on my merch store in the past
I tend to have sweaty hands and smaller smooth pieces slip out of my hand and fly across the room from time to time, maybe gloves would help?
When you mention panel lining on bare plastic, you didn't mention what the alternative is? Would it be on a layer of top coat?
This probably comes from the people who started building when Wing came out in the US, but... DO NOT JUST RIP PARTS FROM THE RUNNER!
Wow, i suck at 5 out of 5. I'm screwed.😔
Philippines!
incorrectly putting a piece in the position is the biggest source of broken pieces. Also pulling parts apart by hand rather than using some kind of wedge like a brick separator to remove pieces will result in broken pieces.
Or even just storing kits not on display. I’ve had a few incidents with v fins, a wing spike, etc.
There’s nothing wrong about being ambitious, being ambitious gives you a purpose, but to achieve that purpose you have to have enough knowledge and skills, otherwise it’s just pure ignorance and blind ego
Don't forget a fat wallet. You need high end equipment and tools if you aspire to achieve picture perfect outcome of your kits. And these brand name tools arent cheap.
But thank god Tamiya exists tho. They at least made customizing slightly bearable, accesible and affordable
Exactly. I’ve got a core custom right now with 3 planned armors, I want to customize a mg aegis Gundam with a more walker tank alt mode, if I can find one I’d love to make the mg turn x into a yugioh 5ds mech lord custom, Freddy Krueger claw out of calisto of shadow, etc.
@@basshibiki ah yes, generosity and richness are definitely what u need, I have several Tamiya paints, but mostly I use markers like Mr.Hobby, Sakura and Sharpie, Sharpie is the cheapest and Mr.Hobby definitely not cheap but miraculously, I have a gold one with me for almost 4 or 5 years, I guess sometimes u get more by paying more
@@rhaeasoul8531 yours sounds like a real big project XD, good luck with that
Noob here - first major mistake, shaving off too much to make parts fit…. Learned the hard way with zaku 2 RG kit with the springs
Here's a little trick you can use to cover up white stress marks: Dab a bit of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (quick setting will work better), let it dry for like a minute, and the white spot will be significantly reduced (it will never go away completely without painting, but this is almost as good imo).
Another trick (not sure about this one, but I saw it from my nipper's manual): If you have a single-bladded nipper, have the sharp edge face the sloped/diagonal part of the gate if there is one. Dunno if it makes a difference, but worth trying out.
Some good tips. I do sometimes paint on the runner, especially gundam inner frame pieces. Usually works out well.
Honestly as far as customizing, just Go wild, if you aren't afraid of making a few mistakes then just go for it, you'll never learn without experience. It's really not that serious.
I'm in the "casuals" bracket. I started Gunpla a* long time ago but I never really bothered on doing a fullblown custom gunpla.. I paint and modify some parts here and there but that's about it... I can relate to the PATIENCE part..
When I started painting, I didn't have the patience. For example, instead of testing the paint first i.e. painting a spare sprue or plastic, I painted the kit right away which ended in a bad result forcing me to start all over..
Back then, I also did not wait for the CURE time because I thought that the Dry time and CURE time were the same.. Turns out, CURE time takes much longer (some even hours or days depending on the paint) than Dry time (usually 5-10 minutes or up to an hour). Cure time is critical specially on chrome paints (my molotow takes 24 hours to cure as written in the direction)..
Lesson, be patient and READ the directions carefully even if you've seen the paint in action on youtube...
For my i prefer lacquer paint if u paint since it takes only 1 to 2 hours for curing one of my gunpla coztumise have better outcome after finished it in a week
@@paolocasilag5942 Oh I see, 1 to 2 hours only? That's fast, nice!
I used a variety of paints ever since I started.. I'm currently using the GW Citadel (acrylic) paints because I got into Warhammer 40K last year (they are miniature kits).. Sometimes I cheat by using hair dryer haha!
@@BGLoscar lol sanaol, sadley i dont have dryer hahaha i got buy my time waiting that dry after i built another one while waiting and it paid off but good thing is i layer many lacquer paint on the colored ones not included white to make glossy and became better and by on my research and tip it can melt abs unless ITS PC it cannot unless use that one layer or use primer to paint on abs ones
@@paolocasilag5942 I'm always confused in that part about Lacquer on ABS vs Lacquer on PC.. Like how do I even tell the type of plastic? Is it indicated on the sprue/ runner? I've tried lacquer on some kits and so far I haven't had issues.
@@BGLoscar try doble check on the runners u can see the pc and abs there
Hi I got a question regarding the seamline removal. Is it normal that the connected pieces isn't alined or equally flat (I side is often higher than the other)
I know nothing about all this
And sometimes have trouble understanding things so I’m sorry if it was stated in the video
Can you use bits from one model and combine it with a second or third making your own?
Is that what scratch building is?
My rg rx78 disintegrated because I drowned it in panel liner then drowned it in alcohol rubbing it off....
Very noob moments from years ago
If you’re going to glue two pieces together, take off any surrounding parts around that you don’t want accidentally glued together.
Removing nub-marks has my brain conditioned to the point where whenever I see a nub on any plastic thing such as a LEGO piece I feel a little disgust and an urge to buff it out.
Just bought my first 1/100 scale, made sure to get nub cutters finally and made sure to watch vids before building
nice... i like your shirt... GUNPLA ALL DAY! im from PHILIPPINES =)
So I am sort of new to gunpla and have what is probably a dumb question. I haven’t watched the anime but like the idea of customising my models. What is the feeling around applying decals that are not anime accurate? Like how harsh are people going to be if I put at 06 on shoulder panels if the anime version of the gundam doesn’t have it, or if I put the wrong fraction logo on the wrong model?
we all know the noobiest thing you can do is read the instructions
"you need a lot of patience"
Me with adhd: "welp, I don't have that but I do have hyperfocus! I once spent 4 hours straight lubing mechanical keyboard switches. Didn't take any break until they were all done lol"
I've veen following this hobby for do long, I should really get around to buying and building at least one kit.
Just one more thing: when you're finished with your kit, and u r taking pics of it, PLEEZ, control your framing... on Instagram 98% of gunpla kits ALWAYS have feetm or beam sabers, or antennaes or the tips of theie wings amputated, and this draw me crazy. Where's the sense of posting pics with half feet, two thirds of beam sabers or just half of the wings in frame???? just move 1 foot away from it, and give us the COMPLETE picture, no?
Kinda' unique to me, but wargame models are not gunpla, and just because wargame models need paint and gunpla don't doesn't mean that gunpla are easier. Coming over from decades of 40k, I thought I could handle more modification than I thought. And while some skills transfer over (seam removal, spray can handling, weathering, plastic chemistry), gunpla needs far more skills, many of which are unique to itself.
1. patience
I made a Gundam at 5 years old or 9 years old I dunno and I also made a lego set so ok.
2. clean up
I clean up all the time.
3. ambition
I don't wanna customize my gunpla.
4. painting
I don't like painting gunpla.
5. panel lining
trying to learn
he is helpful
I painted my Gundam with a clear gloss marker. But it made the kit sticky. I sit it on the table for 2 days and it stll gets finger prints all over 😢
When we look at black (we humans) black is always a really *really* dark shade of a colour for example blue or purple is common because of the sky but you can use any. Something to Think about.
is your gunpla hiding in the box? I think its awesome if you dusplay your gunpla in your background hehe
I always though panel lining the parts while they're still on the runners was easier,
since it's harder to reach certain spots on assembled kits.
Also, I've been wondering if it's better to apply top coat, while the pieces are still on the runners or when assembled?
REEEEEE!!! ELITISM!! GunDuM iS FrEEDoM!!
jk, great vid :P
My uhh… my mistake was confusing sticker style decals for water slides.
I’m sure you know where they’re not at anymore.
Under applying or unevenly applying cement to close up a seamline. You're left with a mostly closed part that now has what looks like a bunch of holes in it wah wah. Not the end of the world but certainly a pain.
I have trouble with designing custom panel lines. I still don't understand how people come up with the designs.
Annnd someone who built almost 200 mg's still mentioned stuff like "Bad Nubs"
SHAME
I feel like you gotta overweather once tho, like as a treat 5:07
nice shirt!, i’m from the Philippines living in Canada 👍🏽👍🏽
Panel lining before even placing the armor on the model. I’ve put panel lines on some weird & pointless places.
I made all these mistakes on my first custom B)
I recovered tho and my custom is now good
Nice tshirt! (Manila resident and builder). Thnx for the vid as always Zak-u.
Nice Shirt ZakuAurelius shout from the Philippines
My guy, you remind of Dawson lol
Good video though I learned a lot
OMG There is no noob mistake coz Gunpla is freedom! LOL
I still have a 1/144 Taurus from years back. Jumped from building to gluing to painting to gloss-coat spray. Where to start? Missed mold lines and seam lines cuz I didn't prime. Also glued parts after putting the polycap on wrong. Mixed paints of different types to get the desired tone. Sprayed on clear coat until the paint crusted. Older-Me would've had a field day.
I'm glad 3rd party kits exist. You can easily get some $5-6 1/144 kits for practicing your customizing skills. And their poor build quality can just act as a good learning experience as well. I kinda wanna make my own personalised mobile suit design by mixing and matching all of their parts together. One day
Does anyone know where I can those gunpla books with all the custom gunpla and tips?
my favourite mistake is buy 30 boxes then never opened them at all skipped 5 years later
A tip for posing would be to try and do the pose yourself, and then try to mimic that pose through your kit
Awesome job bro.
can i use lacquer/acrylic for small detail or panel lining without thinner?
worst mistake : buying too much kits and piled up a backlog of unfinished work 🤧