How to Paint Gunpla! - A Beginner's Guide Pt.1: Prep Work
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- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2024
- We've come a long way since my original "How to Paint" series so I figured it's time for a redux! Let's start off with the very important steps of prep work before we get to painting!
Product links to USA Gndam Store:
Entry-Grade Lah Gundam
www.usagundams...
Nippers:
www.usagundams...
Knife:
www.usagundams...
Glass Files:
www.usagundams...
Ceramic Scraper:
www.usagundams...
Sanding Sticks:
www.usagundams...
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Thanks for watching!
I do handbrush painting because I'm not conveniece with airbrush and spray-can at my home. I hope you have some tips for handbrush painting in the future.
Sure! 👍
Second this!
Prep work is really the same. As far as brush painting gundam kits or really any kit with moving joints, I recommend lacquer paint because it won’t scratch as easily as enamel or acrylic.
If you do the lacquer paint, a thinner like Mr leveling thinner is pretty good because it allows the paint to self level and won’t leave the nasty brush marks. Start with a primer over all surfaces and make sure the paint is thinned to about the consistency of milk. After priming make sure to give some good dry time so that you don’t accidentally start blending colors together.
Roughly start blocking out the area for your first color and don’t stress neatness quite yet. Then allow a little dry time to do another coat until the color looks smooth. Repeat for all colors. If you want a little help blocking out areas, you can try a bit of panel lining to help as a guide between sections before adding colors as long as the primer isn’t too dark. You can also panel line areas after coloring an area to help guide the next color if you do use a black primer.
There are some fun extras you can do by adding chrome under clear parts. Green stuff has a brushable chrome. They have one for airbrush, but I suggest using the brushable one. It goes on pretty well and is recommended over black gloss, but I’ve noticed it covers pretty easily even when things aren’t black. It works good if you don’t go with a thin coat and self levels pretty well and is a little more durable than molotow markers. You can do simple cool lenses by putting clear colors over it like clear reds or green or whatever and brings things out a bit
If you’re gonna put decals, make sure there’s a glossy surface before and use the deal softeners to help the decals blend to the surface. After the decals are dry use a little gloss around the edges and you can lightly sand them to make the edges disappear.
Weathering is another thing that you can do after, but if you want a dull look , you may want to do everything first and buy a can of dull coat, I’ve never been great at getting a good brush technique for dull coat, so I use either can or airbrush for it. I’m sure there is a good way but I haven’t found it yet.
Same
For me it's not even because of space, it's more because I think it's a little bit more fun to paint by hand
Millennial model mayhem has great videos for hand painting gunpla.
I have got to admit i feel like i am with a friend who knows everything about the new hobby i am really getting into, you make the best videos about Gunpla on RUclips 10/10 content! so glad i found your videos.
Thank you!
There is an incredible ease of use that comes with rattle cans. What isn't said about airbrushes and air compresses is the setup time, the time it takes to clean the brush between colors, the time it takes to disassemble the compressor and brush when your done for the day etc etc etc. If it is a choice between setting up my airbrush and a rattle can to quickly prime some pieces I want to hand brush details on, the rattle can is going to win out. Particularly for things like gun metal/silver parts etc.
I did not think of this massive advantage, your right, having a can or 2 for some parts might be a very good idea.
@@1wasavi As the video says, financially an airbrush setup makes a lot of sense to invest in. But unless you can leave it set up somewhere permenantly, it isn't the most convienent solution.
I have just been panel lining and top coating to this point. I've been wanting to get started painting and customizing, so I truly appreciate this video and am looking forward to the rest of the series!
Hey, I have a questions about panel lining. This is something I want to start doing before I even attempt to do painting in the future. Are you supposed to do the panel lining and then the top coat or is the top coat first?
@@mousedynasty4953 If you're using paint to panel line I believe it's a coat before and after. If you're using gundam markers you should be fine to just top coat after. I use the pour type markers and only top coat after.
@@sweetneraka i see, thanks🙂
One of the best, most straightforward videos on how to start customizing Gunpla
I've already watched all of frostedsnow's tutorials, but more tips is always appreciated! I'm getting ready for my first two painted projects, and still have lots of work to go before I actually paint them!
Great video! Painting is my favorite part of the gunpla hobby and I've learned to love the whole process.
Super excited for this series! looking forward to taking my models to the next level.
Suggestion for a part of this series. Create a video about repairs. For instance, how to repair broken parts (v-fins), how to repair mistakes made while shaving nubs off (gashes, scars, etc.), how to repair missing or malformed details (soft molding).
Great idea for a future video or series of videos! 👍
Patiently waits for pt.2
Something notable to mention is cutting the “female” connectors of parts so they’re easy to disassemble for painting. I’ve broken a lot of parts during disassembly even with a parts separator tool.
Certainly! 👍
Since this wasn't mentioned in the video how much should one cut? I've heard conflicting suggestions of just cutting straight through the post at only one point and other suggestions of cutting the entire post as a 45 degree angle
Nice good to hear you're able to paint now.
Perfect time for this video. Intend to try my hands on my first paint job with the HG Calibarn.
I always go back to these tutorials cuz I always learn something new.
Thank you!
Thank you!!! Looking forward to part 2!
This is a great video to show up on my feed as I've been talking about getting into painting and airbrushing with my older brother, and he ended up helping my mom pick out an air brush for me for Christmas
I got Zeta Gundam and Barbatos Rex, both kits that are practically begging to be painted, so I'm glad you're doing these videos.
Man this video is a lifesaver cos i wanna get started on painting and I wanna do the airbrush method but i dont have the space so i wanna get started with spray can first
Something else worth mentioning is that there are a lot of "upgrade" kits for several of them (especially the Entry Grade ones) that add options rather than just filling in the 3mm holes. Not sure how much works with the Lah Gundam, but for the RX-78-2 ones that the Lah uses as the basis for it's design there's a great photo-etch set that might be worth using with it in a combo of before and after painting, depending upon if you want the metallic look to the parts or not. They're no harder to install than the other prep work there for it.
There are a lot of other upgrade and expansion kits for several of the Gundam kits, and it's a very good idea to decide if you want them installed and get/clean them up at the same time you're working on the kit rather than attempting a color match at a later point.
Very good tutorial. I particularly appreciat the language used in something like the seam like removal where you say some goo should "ideally" squeeze out when you press the parts. A lot of tutorials don't say that things might not go exactly as demonstrated and that sometimes leaves you doubting that you might have done something wrong when you're a beginner.
A Dish Dryer is ideal for curing glue, paint etc on kits. Protects from dust areas too.
He's right. I got into a cheap airbrush shortly after "spray canning" my HG Gundam V2 with high ambitions. The control is where it's at now! But TAKE YOUR TIME! THE GUNPLA AINT GOING ANYWHERE!😊
Saving it for tomorrow, have some kits i want to polish then i need some tips hehe
Nippers, scalpel, motorized drill, sanding block, thin cement, metal file, glass file, spare toothbrush, scribing tool. We haven't even started painting yet. I've changed my mind about how much I might want to get into Gunpla.
You can always build your kit and leave it unpainted... it's still fun. Like many things in life, having a good/great result often requires a lot of work, patience and practice.
@@MatteoCremaBL The kit's on the way anyway, and some jar paints. I decided to think less about how many tools were involved in a great production, and decided to just try it out. I figure, if I'm careful, I can refine it later. But getting a bunch of tools I'm not familiar with and damaging the kit would be something I CAN'T undo.
You really don’t have to go that hard.
Great to see this guide and looking forward to next ones! Just started painting my models with Sparmax Flyer and it's a lot of fun!
Hope this series continue!
Yes I'm hoping to have part 2 for you guys this week! Sorry for the delay!
@@ZakuAurelius That would be great. Just got some gunpla kits and have been doing miniatures for years just never tried them. The cleanup was fine, but the planning and painting is something I have no clue about
Super useful guide!!! I'm considering to start painting but there are information all over the place. Glad that I pump into your video.
Awesome video! I’ve been spray can painting for years since I don’t have the space or time to get into airbrushing so I appreciate you are covering steps using spray cans 👍.
Airbrush takes time learning, setting and cleaning. For ppl that just want to spray some plain paint, add a few details with brush and be done with it (like me), an airbrush is too much of a hassle im not willing to take 🤷♂️
👍 Thanks for helping more people get into hobby as you did for me 👍 hope your family is doing better, great video
I’m always so torn by ruining a design as it was meant to be and customizing. My first custom was as efsf zaku, I bought two of them at the local hobby lobby 40% off week. 1 to keep original and one to customize!
This explains why you have so many kits you haven’t painted 😂 thank you for the tips! I probably won’t follow this for every build since I don’t have that kind of time and I don’t want it to feel like a job. But I’ll give it a try for a simple build
This is excellent timing, as I’ve been looking into getting into the Gunpla hobby as a companion to my Warhammer 40k life (and yes, I seem to be allergic to money). Been wanting to custom paint some kits and stuff.
Yeah awesome! Hope you enjoy the videos!
Excited for this series as someone looking into jump into painting!
and that's why i used the hyaku shiki as the base for my entry because i suck at seam removal and the separation is AMAZING there's practically no seamlines. lots of nubs though
Totally something I was looking for!
I have built a number of plastic models over the years, just got back into gunpla as an adult (I was like 8 my first go) and while I agree that spray cans are absolutely less intimidating, I have a thought to bring up. I live in a remote northern community, and spray cans are flat out banned from shipping here. This is actually the case in many more urban settings too. Some municipalities will not sell to anyone who doesn't have an expressly constructive purpose for the paint, and if you get the wrong clerk, you just arent getting any. Same if you look certain ways, because the typical assumption is you'll use it for graffiti. As high as the learning curve can be, hand brushing is probably the most accessible option all around
Great video Zach!! Love how concise and informative it was!! Showing the sinks/mold lines etc... was great!
Thank you. Such a series is very appreciated.
The runner into plugs trick is very good with 30 minute mission kits
Indeed! 👍
Been looking for an amazing vid at this level thank you legend!!!
Happy to help!
so where is the step 2 and step 3?
I'm planning on painting my HGCE Freedom or my Strike Freedom, just gonna do their normal color schemes but with nicer paint, just to make them look nicer, also some accents here and here, but nothing too fancy as it will be my first ever painted build. So thanks for these videos, helps a lot.
Honestly, fresh and super cool video. Best regards from Brazil my guy
I've been a mini painter for years, mostly for D&D and Warhammer. I'm experienced with airbrushing and lots of painting. What intimidates me the most with Gunpla is all the separate parts. It feels overwhelming trying to figure out how to sub assemble the models for painting
Grateful for the video. I have a PG red frame I wanna turn into the gold frame. This series will help greatly.
Absolutely!
This is a great video i would love for you to help me do a video just like this, but in Spanish, you know to help all these gunpla builders in the Spanish speaking community. This hobby has become, for me, one of the greatest things to do in my free time, and i would love to show it to my Hispanic and Spanish speaking people in my area in nyc
That’s a great idea man, I’m sure it would turn out good and help a lot of people out
THANK YOU SO MUCH for creating these series and sharing your knowledge with the community!! I can't wait for future videos, there's so much I'd like to learn about painting and customizing kits. If possible, once you are far advanced in this project, can you explain how to paint chrome based golds and candy colors?? E.g, I'd like to convert my RG Perfectibility Unicorn into my own Phenex version, and customize my MG Sinanju with a candy red paint. Thanks again!
For any shiny colors, you need to prime white, base coat in silver, and then use a clear color over the top. So clear yellow for a phenex and clear red for Char's suits.
I'd recommend not using rattle cans as you will likely need to mix your own colors to get the best look.
Sanding the entire piece csn help the primer stick better. Im cool with 800 grit, but some modelers prefer 1000
really hope you cover hand brushing at some point
I may! In the mean time check out Lincoln’s video on the subject on his channel “Paint on Plastic”
also I learnt from a Japanese RUclipsr that if you want to easily disassemble parts you cut the connector hole cylinder inside the parts at the top and rims of the hole so that the connector pegs don't get stuck thus risk of breakage.
C an you send a link of this. Would appreciate it
i remember seeing this pop up as i was decking out a fumina bearguy and tought "well fuck me...". but now i can watch this without feeling self concious
I used spray cans until I got fed up with them (maybe 3 builds) so I decided to invest in airbrushing and it’s definitely worth it for better results and a more cost effective method
Hell yeah! 👌
What sanding stick grits do you use to clean up nubmarks? do you use various or just one does the trick?
Great video! excited to learn some updated methods specially because I want to get an airbrush set soon
Usually 800 is good. It’s tough enough to do what it needs to do but smooth enough to not need further sanding at a higher grit
Thank you for your guide!!
Do you think you would make a video series about how to handbrush?
Possibly!
When gluing the parts do I have to clamp them or just leave it??
Where's part 2 & 3?
"Hey guys, if you're interested in painting your Gunpla as a beginner, this is the video for you!"
>Five minutes later
"So now we're taking the kit out of the box, and while you don't have to use nippers, I am so I can cut a little bit away from the grid. Now I've got a sponge grade sanding block here, and there's no hole for the barrel of the gun, so I'm going to mark it with my knife and then take a millimeter drill to it--"
And quartz, of course.
What removes gundam marker paint?
Sometimes I can't tell what's a leftover of the manufacturing process vs an intentional detail, so I'm not sure whether to reduce it or enhance it.
5:56 Unlike the Lah Gundam there are other different HG kits that have polycaps that can't be removed when sealing the seams lines. Do you plan to make a video on how to clean up seam lines that won't allow you to remove the poly cap joints since they can't be put back when working the prep work?
This is awesome.
Thanks!
Part 2?
Thank you!
please do a tutorial for hand brushing. i don't have the space or money to invest into an air brush
Nice. I just messed up while using a gold spray can, hopefully you can help me with that along with the topcoat
Hope the videos will help!
Hi! would also recommend these prepping steps for a kit paonted by brush since i would probably need to hit it with a coat of primer first?
is there gonna be a part 2 to this?
Can you provide link to part 2 please 🙏
Haven’t made it yet 😅
Can the Tamiya Extra Thin Cement be substituted into anything else? My local store seems to run out of it frequently.
Is there a part 2 of this? the actual painting
Next week!
Holy smokes is that an HG Dendrobium????
What is that figure in the background?
Quick question, i sand my kits via sandpaper and dishwashing sponge via double sided tape.
What grits do you recommend should I start and finish with?
What grit the sanding stick do you use?
Hey man. I would like to hear your thoughts about this: a fellow builder from my local community used acryllic paint from the tubes. The results posted looked good enough. What do you think of using acryllic paint from the tubes?
Seamline removal. I get it but ive tried to clear coat gundams relatively new like mg kyrios. The frame becomes destroyed when u cannot individually take out every part. How do u paint when youve removed the seam and are unable to take out the connected parts ondicudally that have say different colors.
That’s when it does get a bit more difficult! You either have to modify the parts to be able to be separated or you need to mask the parts when painting
What’s some good beginner scribing tools that you recommend? i wanna go into the kit im building right now and touch up the edges and make the lines more defined as well as create my own panel lines
How do people do the prep steps of mold lines etc if they paint on the Runner first.
Is it just creating a damaging of the painted area and repaint?
Do you or anyone have any pros and cons to painting on the runner vs direct cut part.
I am starting Hand brushing and working my way up to Air Brushing.
Thx
Hey there, I have a whole video on the topic here:
ruclips.net/video/-g467ggeHTQ/видео.htmlsi=V87mUsglD3NQd86P
Is super glue a good alternative for Tamiya cement?
It is not. The tamiya cement works by melting the plastic parts together, creating one solid piece. Super glue cannot do that.
Can I use tamiya cement, not extra thin?
Yes
is the prep work any different if i want to airbrush?
Not really! But we’ll talk about that in the upcoming airbrush series! 👍
Thanks for the insightful guide, but isn't seam line removal and drilling a bit overkill for a beginner's guide? Painting for the first time is overwhelming by itself. But doing all those advanced, time-consuming, and risky techniques in the prep stage sounds demotivating...
They would be nice to see as a separate video, but I don't think it's suitable for absolute beginners
Nice bud! I honestly appreciate this kind of time investment! 😊
P.s. i said this before knowing it's rattle can... just carry this over to that line of tuts (airbrushing) ... 😂
How does your blade cut so cleanly through thick parts like that. I use an xacto knife with their brand blades are those any diffrent?
It’s a brand new blade! After using for a while they definitely become more dull. For reference though I was using the USAGS knife (link in description)
The most safe option is to change your blade for every new kits you gonna build.
I had paint WH40k, not gunpla, but i want to paint gunpla.
Give it a try! 👍
The micro plastics entered the chat
Ansioso pela parte 2 \o/
So in other words... the reason why I got sick from top coating, despite wearing a mask outdoors, is because I was using a spray can.....
wow...
Welp, that realization helped build confidence to try airbrushing. in my living room
Are you wearing the right mask?
If you can smell the paint then the mask you're wearing is not adequate and is not doing much.
@@gtanusetiawan I didn't smell it. Ended up puking and nauseous the next day...
i did get a refund on that mask though.
I fought zakuarlis was innocent 😔 because I saw that girl figure with a bikini on 😂
i feel like this one of the series he wont complete...
8 weeks and still no news. Zaku it’s so sad following to see you abandon multiple time with parts project. Reviewing kit is less effort but man it’s boring
I’m working on part two this week and it’s almost done… I kind of have a lot going on right now if you haven’t followed the life update videos it’s been a pretty tough time mentally for me but yeah, part two is coming
Kind of click-baity.. "How to Paint", but no painting for the whole long duration of the vid.
Awesome tutorial, can't wait for part 2! 🎨🤖
Where's part 2 ???
Coming!