Knobs!!! I'm with 'ya, knobs are 1000% easier to adjust than touching a screen button while taking your eyes off the road. That's a long boot-up time, but everything else seems pretty awesome... and there wasn't any smoke coming out of this one when you amp-dyno'd it. :)
Thats just the initial boot up time, from when power is first connected. "Turning off ignition" (removing acc wire, while on bench) it draws about 0.5 amps for 10 minutesor less then drops to 0.00 amps. Reconnect acc power, it's about a 3 second boot up time...at least in my testing. I like to see some hacking on this, I'm no coder.
Man this is exactly how thorough and honest HU reviews should be, you got every feature that matters, except gestures on the screen. There's some JVC touchscreen units that have both a volume knob and a volume gesture control on the touch screen, I've been wanting one for like 6 years now, and it'd be even better if it had DSP in it.
@@ShainAndrews Because technology is always getting better, why not make a product that eliminates the need for a separate box with separate remote power and ground, and extra rca cables? What is your issue with a better head unit that outright replaces the majority of DSPs on the market? What is wrong enough with that idea you call it a hard on? Why add another box with wires when it can be simplified and fully integrated with no compatibility issues from a large, reputable brand that can also design and optimize the software? Why the hard on for another separate expensive box?
@@corygilbert5666 At some point... you accept the jack of all, master of none. Anybody can write code to make these devices appear to be doing a function. Mean while behind the curtain noting is happening. This stuff doesn't even have a quality DAC... but you claim "technology" is getting better.
Time alignment (also called delay) is the #1 feature you want in a DSP for car audio. It might be more important than good crossovers. When I first tried it out, I couldn't believe what a huge difference it makes. I run a Dayton DSP408 in a hatchback with cheap front coaxials, rear coaxilas and trunk subwoofers. Makes a world of difference in sound quality switching between presets with two different time alignments (Example: Drivers seat setup to Passenger seat setup). As the driver, when I switch to the passengers setup everything sounds like crap and basically all of the vocals are coming right from my drivers door/footwell. Time alignment is the business. Don't bother getting a DSP without it.
Time alignment is the #1 feature you want in audio. There fixed it for you, you had too many words. Doesn't matter if you are a car audio DSP wizard or don't have DSP and are just trying to line up your tweeters to your mids in a pair of $25k home audio speakers using nothing more then your cap/coil crossover components to do that. If you want to make a band sound good out front being a sound engineer, the main speakers have to be delayed to the back line (where the bass amps/guitar amps/drums sit) or else garbage. Lining up your ducks is how you level up in audio. No question about it.
Using 2-way components with their own external crossovers and tweeters mounted in the a-pillars, should the time alignment distance of the tweeters or woofers be used?
@@sumdood2035 Woofers. Here is why: Our body uses different cues for location of sounds depending on frequency. Above about 3500 hz our heads block the sound as the wavelengths are much smaller then our heads. Sounds will be louder in the closer ear to the location of the source then the opposing ear. We therefore use relative volume between the 2 ears to locate these sounds. Sounds between 120-3500hz have longer wavelengths then our heads so the sound can wrap around our heads so the relative volume of these sounds are about equal in both ears so for these frequencies we use timing to locate these sounds - which ear the sound reaches first. Below 120hz we cannot locate the direction of the source. The study of this is called psychoacoustics. Therefore the mids are the most important to get the timing right. You can just throw a towel over the tweeters and run your alignment program. For the tweeters the most important thing is to make sure they are both at the same volume level because that is how we locate high frequencies which is difficult because in a car you are much closer to one side then the other. The trick is to use the directional nature of tweeters to make the close one off axis (not pointing at you but the opposite side) so it is reduced in volume at your listening position and the far one pointing at your ear so it is on axis and therefore louder.
OH man, I need this. Blown away with the features. Only wanted a knob and wireless carplay and enough RCA outputs for two amps. This fills the wish list and then some.
I bought it, based on your video, and well... love it! And gonna buy another. I put this in my wife's car which has 4 kickers series door speakers and a Parts express 10' dual passive radiator sub set-up and everything came to life! I will be replacing my Pioneer soon.
I bought one before I watched this and installed it into my 99 silverado. My amp 2400.4 and I'm hooked up with 2 DS18 6.5" loud speakers. My sub is a simple powered sub. I am still needing to get door speakers. Setting up frequencies and outputs have been a struggle for me and not knowing what to set these things to on my amp and the sub is probably my issue. I'll keep messing with it, now I end up just going with "rock" setting for the EQ, the outputs at max, and the frequencies I always up up reseting them to defaults. But I do love this head unit big time. I want to buy another for my 70 pontiac.
I love having native waze & NES emulator support on my cars radio! These units are fantastic..... so long as your using external amps, and external sound processing. Some people dont even realize you can also utilize outboard DAC's on these units too like the Audioquest Dragonfly.
emulator support, and multiple outputs, can have it setup so the kids can play games and not interrupt your music while on a road trip or such. Good stuff for a budget. I only wish the headunit didnt have the label on it "MAxspeedingrods" as customers will look down on that if its not a "clarion" or something of that sort.
@@crisnmaryfam7344 right there with ya! Theres logo'less units out there. The android 5.1 unit I have in my other vehicle is more or less a st8 screen.
@@crisnmaryfam7344 I agree, I'd toss the OEM HU back in before sale. They're a bit of a dirty name in the automotive tuning world, kinda like Harbor Freight in some ways. Some stuff is solid, other stuff... ehhhhh. Having said that, these head units look to function properly.
@crisnmaryfam7344 maxspeedingrods have been making performance parts for cars for years. The quality is hit or miss depending on what you buy. For example, I wouldn't buy their coil overs, but their turbos seem to be ok. This head unit seems to be descent as well.
this was such a bad ass thorough review. I bought a $60 Dual touch screen and it was terrible. everything about it was garbage. I've ran Maxpeedingrods coilovers, but never expected them to get into car audio too. I'm impressed with the RCA outputs and DSP and ability to watch movies, I'll probably buy this with intention of pairing it with a 4 channel amp. thanks for the vid.
I've been actually eyeing that Ototto one you did not too long ago. The upgraded version actually. The overheating is alarming, and the dash in my Mercedes gets HOT! But I already got a DSP in my car so I'm not worried bout that. Great reviews man!👏
Buyer beware as this headunit doesnt have the same dimensions as a double, it is slightly taller. Purchased for a 2006 silverado and face frame and side mounts used for a double din would not slide over this headunit, ended up taking the double din mounting kit apart and only utilizing the side pieces, screwed them on to the headunit itself and actully worked this way. There is a tiny gap up top but only looking from the bottom upward, with some minor modifications ie drilline new holes on the side mounting plates it'll sit perfect, but for now looks good and to the intrained eye no one notices
As an MECP certified installer by trade I turn away most clients that show up with these "Made in China" unknown brand android radios. They're cheap and do a lot, but they have a very high fail rate. The unit in the video seems better than most, that RCA voltage output and the built in DSP features are nice. Those options usually come in brand name radios over $1k like the Alpine I have in my truck. This unit seems like it may do better in a vehicle with an oem amplified system that has more than 5 channels, some Toyotas and Lexus models come to mind. I'm glad to see the quality of these units are slowly improving, maybe it'll force the big brand names to pack more features into their radios for less. But I'll still have the concern of how long they last before they break down.
do you think that because the rca output is clean a amp hooked up to them at full volume would be quiter than a mp at 37 out of 50 without clipping just wondering
Bought the head unit. I like the DSP. Nobody needs 8 output channels though, I have like two or three wired up. It's glitchy, and the bluetooth is slow, but nothing has broken.
I've used Maxpeedingrods in a couple high-ish power builds, including a 600hp 8000rpm Audi 5 cyl. They're legit if you're willing to do a bit of the final deburring and quality control yourself.
i run theyre rods on my high hp prelude ran them 2 years no issues infact it was weighed close to each other where fairly balanced weighed a little much for being forged but no complaints
About time someone designed this head unit. Hope your paying attention pioneer, alpine, kenwood etc.. my wt76nex cost me a whoool f'n bunch and i still have to run a dsp
We paid $800 for wireless Carplay for a Kenwood, for my girlfriend. Of course it was from Crutchfield, so that is part of it. I hadn't done a stereo in a few decades, lol. Just did it for the documentation and guidance. I need one for mine, now, though.
I have the Dayton Audio DSP-408. And as much as I love it, I've been having issues with it communicating with the app on my phone. Also, I wish it had a higher output voltage. This headunit fits the bill. There's nothing like being able to access the DSP at the fly for tuning. Hopefully, more manufacturers will follow suit with this design.
It's been fun reading the comments. I think the brand could have a real hit on their hands, especially if they were to offer an upscale model with a faster processor and more RAM. Perhaps from there an even more upscale model with a toslink or SPDIF plus a big floating screen. If they could do all that for under $500 they would break the head unit market.
This was a great video. With so many cheaper touch screens out there, it's hard to know exactly what you're getting, until you actually buy one. This was definitely a great find, and an excellent review man! And just in time for Christmas!! Thanks so much for the video, and showing the features. Now, to just convince the wife, that I need this, lol.
@@DIYAudioGuy you're welcome, and I agree 💯 as it's definitely loaded up for the price. If it can withstand a few years or so, then it's a total bargain. A stand alone dsp costs as much, and more, then this unit.
Android auto is far superior to Apple carplay! Literally got an iPhone 13 a couple years ago & had to buy a Samsung s23 in order to get my system working properly again. Only people who've never had a good android will tell you iPhones are better. Wish I talked to someone who didn't have an iPhone before I jumped over cause like 6 android owners chimed in later to express how much better their android was
The DSP portion is really interesting as well as the volume knob. My biggest complaint is the 30 sec boot time. I don't think I could live with this in a vehicle, but maybe a bench test unit? Hmmmm
@@DIYAudioGuy yeah it def got my attention when you hit the DSP section. As you said worth the cost for just that and the clean RCA outs and volume knob
I don't know about this particular unit as I don't own one - but I have heard that other android head units only take this long to boot up initially, when the vehicle battery has been disconnected, or when the unit is being restarted. Like a phone, it just goes into sleep mode instead of turning off. So subsequent starts should be much faster. This would also mean it is still pulling power from the yellow constant power wire to keep the circuitry alive, so I'd be curious to see what kind of current the "parasitic" drain would be. I imagine not much as these devices tend to have low-power states engineered in, but it may still be significant.
That's a nice one I haven't seen yet, Looking at options for my recently bought magnum. You forgot to mention, the ability to run both a dashcam, as well as a backup cam, off the head unit (it's in the description). with all the bad drivers out there, a little protection is needed
I REALLY need to see a HU with the ability to record multiple streams or at least one stream of video, for safety purposes and whatnot. To have a dash cam, front and back cams should not remotely be a problem for a small device, our cell phones do it all the time. Also does this have an SD slot? Short of that, it's really an impressive unit, fuck the internal amp. The dsp features alone are amazing from what I can tell, and I like how I can set up a 2 way active with rear fill (most cars seem to do 2 way up front with a rear fill and sub now anyways.) Now if only somebody can make a compact 7 channel amp. Yes I know D4S makes one but it's pretty huge and puts out too much power. Cut the size and power in half and it's a fucking winner. honestly.
Glad I found I found your review and I appreciate how in-depth you get. This unit had been on my short list but now I think I'm convinced. Next step is trying to select the amplifier and speakers...I have an 06 Porsche Boxster with Bose sound package that I want to completely replace so out with the fiber optics etc. It's quite a noisy car anyway with the convertible top and mid engine with sports exhaust so "audiophile" equipment would be a total waste. I just want to be able to experience decent music and bass. The factory Bose unit incorporates 3 way splits in the doors, 2 small subs in a ported enclosure over the engine cover (right behind your head) and there might be a centre speaker on the top of the dash at the bar of the windshield, I haven't pulled the cover to see. Could you recommend a resource or site to find appropriate speakers and amp?
This is what you are looking for: howl.me/ciIkPqz4VY9 just plug in your car and they will show you what fits. Then when you place your order they will either throw in or direct you to all of the brackets and harnesses that you need to make everything fit. I don't know how you can make the car quiet, especially with the top down. But some well placed sound deadening between you and the engine may help. I like the stuff from nvx. Use the foam lined product (bit.ly/3CxjWCG) when you have interior panels that contact each other. Use the heavy stuff for panels that make noise due to vibration. I have a discount code for nvx.com: diyaudio10.
iva had my dayton audio dsp 408 for 2,5yrs now and im debation getting this as a replacement bc atm i dont have a headunit and run signal straight from my phone to my dsp wich feeds my amp. ive been looking for one of these headunits to actually have a full sett of rca outputs, so this is right up my alley! thanks for a great review!
Their turbo bearings are hit and miss. Need 360 degree thrust bearings. Coilovers are absolutely terrible. Other then that not a bad company. I personally run their vw 1.8t splitter valve. Had nothing but good luck with it.
The biggest problem I see with this is the 2G+32G in the listing. 2g means 2 gigs of RAM, 32gb of storage. Storage may not be an issue for anyone who is conservative on the apps they install. But, 2 gigs of RAM will choke a lot of modern apps. From personal experience I can tell you Google maps is horrible with low RAM. Waze doesn't seem to do as bad however. I haven't looked any further than that into the android specs, but I'm sure this has a weak processor and almost guarantee it's not actually Android 10. Most of these companies "skin" android 8, etc to appear to be 10, 11, so on. Try something like CPU-Z to see what the API is. Then Google android api list. 10 should be API 29. But... Sometimes they fake that too. Annnnnd, sometimes they fake the specs. 2g 32g might actually be 1g 16g. I'm not saying this company is doing that, but be cautious. Google the model number etc. You'll likely find someone on XDA with info. Personally I cuss my Eonon (8227L I believe) every time I drive my car and it locks up or resets itself. That said, it's still far better than the factory basic radio. I just limit my apps to Waze and RUclips Music. That's all I really need anyway. 🤷♂️
This is something that has been the achilles heal of these tablet style units. Personally? I have always found better performance when using the phone to do all the GPS functions I need. BUT the Bigger problem is when you start using Amazon Music and Spotify. IT EATS RAM! And CPU Power? It eats that too! As long as you use this unit for Native Playback, You should be fine. But 2GIGS? Not even Chromebooks today run good on that with a fast current CPU. 4Gigs is the BARE minimum. Want GREAT performance? 8 Gigs is where it starts getting good with apps. 12 is where you get diminishing returns. For Perspective? 4 Gigs of Ram was what you needed for windows XP to Fly back in the day with some Fast 15k SCSI drives on a striped array. 2024 on the way? And we still got 2Gigs being the Entry level with modern apps is just not going to cut it. Fine for a Media Playback device. Not so if you want to run Modern Bloated Apps on the thing. As much as I like having a Headunit? Screen Mirroring is the best way to go about it going into the future. You use the phones Superior horsepower, and you getto use the tactile like functions of I/O device being your touchscreen and Physical controls to do its thing. That way? If you want to simply upgrade? You just put in a New "BOX" and the display, much like a Keyboard or mouse is the peripheral. You also don't have to worry about theft since everything that is worth anything is in a black box locked away. Better for security as well.
@@DIYAudioGuy well... Lol... I think I dropped about 400-ish for my Eonon a few years back, somewhat regretfully. If I could get this form factor (double din / 7-8in screen), 6-8gb RAM / 128-256gb storage, a really good processor, actual supported official honest android 10 or higher, security updates, android upgrades for a reasonable amount of time, etc... I mean I'd drop $1000-1500 easily.
@@MickeyMishra so much everything you said too. The sound processing, amplification, etc in the unit and the info/sound/video coming from an external source.
Volume knob is a must... talk about trying to fix something that isnt broken. Drive a car without a volume knob on the dash for a few days; So much more aggravating than you would think.
They’re out with a newer model that has USB-C, Android 13 & a 36 band EQ but it doesn’t specify if it kept 5.1 stereo. Would love a revisit of that unit to see if it’s still a great performer with external amp!
I've gotten burned on these Android units. I'll make a video, I'll point out some really good features and give it a good review, and then my comments get blown up as people buy them and they seem to all fail at a very high rate. For a head unit you really should stick with a mainstream brand, even something like a Boss will be more reliable.
Thanks this review I just bought one. It appears to be better than he one I have from atoto a6 pf, it disappointed me with all its features it only came with a mono sub output and I seems to be 1v at best had to use the speaker output to a LOC to send signal to my amp.
Internals look exactly the same as every other chinese android head unit you can find right now from as low as $40 up to $1000. Only difference between them is slight changes to the housing and front inputs, and the software that comes preloaded. They're all totally unlocked so you can root them and install any version of android and any car audio software you want on them if you don't like the stuff that comes preloaded. I have one friend that spent $300 on one from ebay, another that spent $100 on amazon, and I just bought one recently on amazon for $40, they are all exactly the same unit. Ironically the most expensive one was the only one that had any problems, when we went to add subs to the radio anytime we connected the RCA's the door speakers would cut out and only the subs would play, I searched through the settings for hours trying to find something that could be causing it, even stranger, when we just said f it and bough a loc to bypass this issue, whenever we connected the RCA's to the loc the same thing happened again, and I was left totally baffled. HOW could the door speakers not be playing if the loc is getting its signal from them? Never did figure it out. Ended up having to get an amp for the door speakers too.
Maxxspeedingrods is crazy😂 they have amazing turbos and pretty good coilovers for the price they let you buy the cheep eBay/wish parts but with an actual brand and warranty
Unfortunately they didn't throw in a backup camera when they sent me the unit. My rule is that if a head unit company wants me to test a camera they have to send me a camera.
Maxpeedingrod makes alot of different products for years now. They are really popular for cheap coilovers which used to be crap. In the past year they stepped up there game. I own the new version. Coilover and I love them smooth ride , they feel better than my more expensive coils on 2nd car
Wish someone would build an android unit like this with a decent built in amp. Why doesnt D4S do it? 4x50+1x100 ish should be doable in a double din space
"Max-Peeding-Rods" Legit, look at their logo. They are kind of known for silly name and making kind of OKAY car parts for the money. But they stand out by having PR and like, sponsoring youtubers and working with folks to actually make cool parts. They also apparently have pretty good support for a chinese car part company.
Hey I bought this because of your video and I installed it in a 1988 Honda Goldwing and ya without an amp is stinks but its way better than the factory radio oh volume is louder though I am running 2ohms and the FM radio is better and Apple Support is awesome great sound !! can’t wait to install an amplifier and sub
I have an ole' 2000 VW Passat with the Monsoon audio system. I think I will give this headunit a shot and use the Monsoon amp to power my (totally dried out) speakers!
Just to clarify on the RCA outputs, you're recommending to use the 5.1 center L & R for the front speakers? I recently purchased 2 of these units for 2 different vehicles. Both are using factory type 2 way speakers with no subs, not yet anyway. Great video and very informative!
I have an 03 Yukon XL with Bose and plan to buy this. Would running rca to speaker wire adapters off of the headunit instead of wiring the vehicle harness to the headunits speaker outputs work? I'm assuming the Bose amp is only looking for a low level audio signal, not an amplified signal from the headunit. I'm hoping to get around the Distortion the headunit has at its speakers outputs without bypassing bose and running a new amp to all of the speakers.
How do you think it'd do using an install adapter to hook to a factory bose amp in GM truck? It technically hooks to the speaker level output, but then adjusts that to go through the factory amp
So pretty just to make sure I fully understand, this headunit will sound great as long as it's paired with a 4 channel amp correct? I have a 18 inch sundown on a jp23 and door speakers on a skar 1000 rms 4 channel amp. Will this head unit satisfy my needs for good sound quality??
The thing that sets it apart from other Android head units are the eight channels of preamp outputs for the full DSP. Outside of that it's no better and no worse than any other Android head unit, and like all of them there's no way to know about their long-term reliability.
Been looking for a budget double din and this seems to fit the bill. But a little confused. Since I'm only running doors and rear 6x9s with a sub, that would be the 2way setting, right? Which rcas would I use for that?
I have an Android radio and you definitely need to spring for the faster processor, more RAM otherwise it's miserably slow. And yes it'll play loud but distorted audio lol. I've yet to own one that doesn't need an amp.
Forgive my ignorance on this specific topic. Coming from an old school perspective. I have a simple question. Running an amp to a component set that is furnished with a cross over. With this internal DSP. Would I forgo the supplied cross over on simply connect the amp directly to the tweeter and mid bass to the amp. Select full on the amp and tune the tweeters/ mid base in the head unit? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
as a mechaninic i use max speeding rods stuff a lot they ar every cost effective especially here in jamaica where our dollar has very little value ...thanks4 the radio ...i been looking for 1 with those features ...didnt know MSR sold them only car parts
What do you think about the sound quality side by side with a reputable company head unit that has the same 4V outputs? What would you think about testing both units with the same quality amplifier and speakers? Does it have enough DSP and EQ to equal a Pioneer side by side? I know somebody running one of these android units with the head unit amp is definitely junk like you said in the video.
@@DIYAudioGuy but how did the audio quality sound to you in person when you did the test? how about Low frequencies? Talking about volume under 30 before it started distorting.
@user-vb2xu7me9g I've been playing with it on the bench for a few days. Hooked up 2 6x9 infinity 9632ix's. Sounds amazing, just the speakers sitting on bench. Tune the eq a little depending on what music and it's pretty damn good. Of course it should be better with some more power, but I'm impressed with these speakers attached as is. I think it checks what I want and I'll likely never use some of the features that involve connecting my phone. I just hope it lasts.
What was the piece of equipment you measured the rca volts with ? Then what was it you used to check what frequency the certain marked rca’s were? Thanks for all your great videos.😊
that 40 second bootup is a deal killer... that sucks. would be a good unit if it were 5-9 seconds. does this come with a larger screen? like a 10/13/17" screen?
thats a parabolic eq not a parametric eq. parametric sets the curves for set points and they dont change. parabolic changes the curves at any point, there is a differene. i use parabolic term a lot on my channel in refernce to dayton audio dsp and people try to correct me and say parametric. i shake my head and give the explanation of the 2. i like your channeland your videos. i promise im not hating just saying. id ;ike to know your thoughts on this.
This looks cool, but not sure how I could mount this in my 2010 Ford E250. Thinking of buying one just for my garage to play tunes and feed into an external amplifier. Then I can use the DSP to fine tune my speakers for a flat response. Or build a boom box and use this for the main interface.
The last time I did an install in a heavy duty Ford it was actually pretty easy. No dash kit was required just had to mount the radio behind the dash make sure it lined up properly and trim a little bit of the factory dash out of the way.
Just want to make sure I understand, so in the 2 way or 3 way mode each channel has its on cut off frequency? Like you can set a mid bass to play everything above 80hz and nothing above let’s say 4500hz, then set tweeter to play 4500hz and above.
Yes. One thing I do not like, it is not clear which crossover channel routs to which RCA output. It would be wise to do some testing to verify. You don't want to smoke a tweeter by connecting it to the wrong channel. You don't need anything fancy. An old connected to your amp will do the trick.
@@DIYAudioGuy I appreciate it. I have several old ones laying around. So what I gathered was the only thing it was lacking was the each channel doesn’t have a separate eq. It just has a one main eq page. If that makes sense.
Recently bought a nice flip out screen stereo made by Dual Electronics. It looked really nice but man it sounded like crap. After two weeks started having issues like freezing screen. Returned that sucker back to amazon. I only paid $79 for it so yeah it was too good to be true
Thanks for the video! This is exactly what I was looking for. I am going to use it in a VW Jetta with the monsoon amp. Do you think this will work since the monsoon amp uses speaker level inputs since the signal is clean until volume 29?
Man. If they made this with a 10.1 floating screen and idatalink maestro compatible, I'd get this. I need a shallow mount radio for my 2014 ford explorer. REALLY SICK of that ford Mytouch and sony system.
Interesting option... I may deal with the crappy internal amp until I've got the funds for the dedicated amps... May have to go triple amps. 1x mono for a sub, 1x 4 channel and a 2 channel for some kick panel speakers. Fuck you, Ford for the oddball 5x7/6x8 speaker mounting that fits almost nothing but stock, so I've gotta go 5.25" coaxial in the rear, keep the 5x7/6x8 components in the doors, and throw new kick panels with 6.5" components in. Specifically eyeballing JBL 52F, 862CF, and 62CF. Not sure on a sub. Possibly Dayton E180HE-44, possibly a 10". Not sure yet. I'll be pulling the fold down seat on the driver's side and building a box to sit in it's place.
I loved my Sony XAV-AX100 for the simple fact it had a knob. I'm done with these damn Android units though, they've all shoddy garbage. I haven't had one that does even simple Bluetooth phone calls without problems. The one I got has a fan too, but it doesn't power it on! Doesn't matter how hot it gets (and yes I connected the cable) it stays off.
I hate to break it to you but that back of the head unit is a standard Chinese layout. This is probably either a PX5 PX6 or TS-10 or TS-18 head unit which you can get everywhere cheaply especially AliExpress
I could confirm if it's a TS-10 if you measure the output voltage if it reads roughly 1.5 volts then it most definitely is a TS-10 or TS-18. Not to say that it's bad that's what my car uses
The newer androide-phones has the lowest eq-setting at 63hz... can you belive that!? The subwoofer in my car sounds terrible after i switch to a new phone. Completly refusing to play lows. Any suggestion on what to do with that? Love youre videoes btw. Learning alot👍
Thanks for the review! I'm about to buy this thing but I really need to know if the DSP will allow good-old-fashione Front/Rear/Sub configuration. I've got passive crossovers for each set of components
Save the volume knobs! I don't buy a head unit without one. No matter the features.
I guess if you got steering wheel controls you can get by without a volume knob.
💯%
I don't miss a volume knob. Steering wheel controls I use more than anything
I agree. Volume knobs are an essential dealbreaker.
Volume knobs are superior in every way 💪
Knobs!!! I'm with 'ya, knobs are 1000% easier to adjust than touching a screen button while taking your eyes off the road. That's a long boot-up time, but everything else seems pretty awesome... and there wasn't any smoke coming out of this one when you amp-dyno'd it. :)
Thats just the initial boot up time, from when power is first connected. "Turning off ignition" (removing acc wire, while on bench) it draws about 0.5 amps for 10 minutesor less then drops to 0.00 amps. Reconnect acc power, it's about a 3 second boot up time...at least in my testing.
I like to see some hacking on this, I'm no coder.
Man this is exactly how thorough and honest HU reviews should be, you got every feature that matters, except gestures on the screen. There's some JVC touchscreen units that have both a volume knob and a volume gesture control on the touch screen, I've been wanting one for like 6 years now, and it'd be even better if it had DSP in it.
My main focus was on what I can measure.
Why... why the hard on for a DSP in the head unit....
@@ShainAndrews Because technology is always getting better, why not make a product that eliminates the need for a separate box with separate remote power and ground, and extra rca cables? What is your issue with a better head unit that outright replaces the majority of DSPs on the market? What is wrong enough with that idea you call it a hard on? Why add another box with wires when it can be simplified and fully integrated with no compatibility issues from a large, reputable brand that can also design and optimize the software? Why the hard on for another separate expensive box?
@@corygilbert5666 At some point... you accept the jack of all, master of none. Anybody can write code to make these devices appear to be doing a function. Mean while behind the curtain noting is happening. This stuff doesn't even have a quality DAC... but you claim "technology" is getting better.
Quality head unit, then let a quality amplifier/DSP run the back end. AudioControl has some exceptional products at reasonable prices.
Time alignment (also called delay) is the #1 feature you want in a DSP for car audio. It might be more important than good crossovers. When I first tried it out, I couldn't believe what a huge difference it makes. I run a Dayton DSP408 in a hatchback with cheap front coaxials, rear coaxilas and trunk subwoofers. Makes a world of difference in sound quality switching between presets with two different time alignments (Example: Drivers seat setup to Passenger seat setup). As the driver, when I switch to the passengers setup everything sounds like crap and basically all of the vocals are coming right from my drivers door/footwell. Time alignment is the business. Don't bother getting a DSP without it.
Time alignment is the #1 feature you want in audio. There fixed it for you, you had too many words. Doesn't matter if you are a car audio DSP wizard or don't have DSP and are just trying to line up your tweeters to your mids in a pair of $25k home audio speakers using nothing more then your cap/coil crossover components to do that. If you want to make a band sound good out front being a sound engineer, the main speakers have to be delayed to the back line (where the bass amps/guitar amps/drums sit) or else garbage. Lining up your ducks is how you level up in audio. No question about it.
Really? It makes a real difference?
Ok I read the rest of your comment so I get it .
Using 2-way components with their own external crossovers and tweeters mounted in the a-pillars, should the time alignment distance of the tweeters or woofers be used?
@@sumdood2035 Woofers. Here is why:
Our body uses different cues for location of sounds depending on frequency. Above about 3500 hz our heads block the sound as the wavelengths are much smaller then our heads. Sounds will be louder in the closer ear to the location of the source then the opposing ear. We therefore use relative volume between the 2 ears to locate these sounds. Sounds between 120-3500hz have longer wavelengths then our heads so the sound can wrap around our heads so the relative volume of these sounds are about equal in both ears so for these frequencies we use timing to locate these sounds - which ear the sound reaches first. Below 120hz we cannot locate the direction of the source. The study of this is called psychoacoustics.
Therefore the mids are the most important to get the timing right. You can just throw a towel over the tweeters and run your alignment program. For the tweeters the most important thing is to make sure they are both at the same volume level because that is how we locate high frequencies which is difficult because in a car you are much closer to one side then the other. The trick is to use the directional nature of tweeters to make the close one off axis (not pointing at you but the opposite side) so it is reduced in volume at your listening position and the far one pointing at your ear so it is on axis and therefore louder.
OH man, I need this. Blown away with the features. Only wanted a knob and wireless carplay and enough RCA outputs for two amps. This fills the wish list and then some.
Finally one with decent RCA voltage output.
I bought it, based on your video, and well... love it! And gonna buy another. I put this in my wife's car which has 4 kickers series door speakers and a Parts express 10' dual passive radiator sub set-up and everything came to life!
I will be replacing my Pioneer soon.
Awesome! I am glad that it is working for you.
Still good?
I bought one before I watched this and installed it into my 99 silverado. My amp 2400.4 and I'm hooked up with 2 DS18 6.5" loud speakers. My sub is a simple powered sub. I am still needing to get door speakers. Setting up frequencies and outputs have been a struggle for me and not knowing what to set these things to on my amp and the sub is probably my issue. I'll keep messing with it, now I end up just going with "rock" setting for the EQ, the outputs at max, and the frequencies I always up up reseting them to defaults. But I do love this head unit big time. I want to buy another for my 70 pontiac.
I love having native waze & NES emulator support on my cars radio!
These units are fantastic..... so long as your using external amps, and external sound processing. Some people dont even realize you can also utilize outboard DAC's on these units too like the Audioquest Dragonfly.
emulator support, and multiple outputs, can have it setup so the kids can play games and not interrupt your music while on a road trip or such. Good stuff for a budget. I only wish the headunit didnt have the label on it "MAxspeedingrods" as customers will look down on that if its not a "clarion" or something of that sort.
@@crisnmaryfam7344 right there with ya! Theres logo'less units out there. The android 5.1 unit I have in my other vehicle is more or less a st8 screen.
@@crisnmaryfam7344 I agree, I'd toss the OEM HU back in before sale. They're a bit of a dirty name in the automotive tuning world, kinda like Harbor Freight in some ways. Some stuff is solid, other stuff... ehhhhh. Having said that, these head units look to function properly.
@@Ramsaaaayour unaware
@crisnmaryfam7344 maxspeedingrods have been making performance parts for cars for years. The quality is hit or miss depending on what you buy. For example, I wouldn't buy their coil overs, but their turbos seem to be ok. This head unit seems to be descent as well.
love to see some old school late 80s early 90s head units get tested
Oh man . The high quality units from back then were awesome! Like Alpline 7618 or 9709 . Nakamichi , Denon , Sony had some cool stuff also
this was such a bad ass thorough review. I bought a $60 Dual touch screen and it was terrible. everything about it was garbage. I've ran Maxpeedingrods coilovers, but never expected them to get into car audio too. I'm impressed with the RCA outputs and DSP and ability to watch movies, I'll probably buy this with intention of pairing it with a 4 channel amp. thanks for the vid.
I've been actually eyeing that Ototto one you did not too long ago. The upgraded version actually. The overheating is alarming, and the dash in my Mercedes gets HOT! But I already got a DSP in my car so I'm not worried bout that. Great reviews man!👏
Buyer beware as this headunit doesnt have the same dimensions as a double, it is slightly taller. Purchased for a 2006 silverado and face frame and side mounts used for a double din would not slide over this headunit, ended up taking the double din mounting kit apart and only utilizing the side pieces, screwed them on to the headunit itself and actully worked this way. There is a tiny gap up top but only looking from the bottom upward, with some minor modifications ie drilline new holes on the side mounting plates it'll sit perfect, but for now looks good and to the intrained eye no one notices
Thanks, I was just about to ask. Seems like the majority of these chinese double din are not to spec.
Did you use the headunit's speaker wiring ? If so how do they sound ?
@@JayLoveBeats only used the rca outputs
I bought a turbo made by this company, was very impressed with the performance!
Good!
The built in 5.1 surround decoder is a game changer for me..
I did not test it out. I probably should do a follow-up and go through all of that a bit more thoroughly.
As an MECP certified installer by trade I turn away most clients that show up with these "Made in China" unknown brand android radios. They're cheap and do a lot, but they have a very high fail rate. The unit in the video seems better than most, that RCA voltage output and the built in DSP features are nice. Those options usually come in brand name radios over $1k like the Alpine I have in my truck. This unit seems like it may do better in a vehicle with an oem amplified system that has more than 5 channels, some Toyotas and Lexus models come to mind. I'm glad to see the quality of these units are slowly improving, maybe it'll force the big brand names to pack more features into their radios for less. But I'll still have the concern of how long they last before they break down.
How often do people bring in units like this?
do you think that because the rca output is clean a amp hooked up to them at full volume would be quiter than a mp at 37 out of 50 without clipping just wondering
Can you do an update video comparing this one to maxpeedingrods newest double din running Android 13?
Not bad, I'm actually kind of impressed with this thing. Its a great budget option. Good job hitting so much info on it.
Thanks for watching.
Bought the head unit. I like the DSP. Nobody needs 8 output channels though, I have like two or three wired up. It's glitchy, and the bluetooth is slow, but nothing has broken.
love the fact car audio is still evolving decently thanks for the show
I've used Maxpeedingrods in a couple high-ish power builds, including a 600hp 8000rpm Audi 5 cyl. They're legit if you're willing to do a bit of the final deburring and quality control yourself.
I've only seen coilovers from them being used here in spain, so all i know is that they break. A lot. Glad not eveything from them is the same though
@@Flashbang_Photo Their coilovers are garbage, their rods are ok.
i run theyre rods on my high hp prelude ran them 2 years no issues infact it was weighed close to each other where fairly balanced weighed a little much for being forged but no complaints
Best audio feature of those Android "DSP" radios is a clean digital out to process the signal in an real DSP like Helix , Zapco ....
About time someone designed this head unit. Hope your paying attention pioneer, alpine, kenwood etc.. my wt76nex cost me a whoool f'n bunch and i still have to run a dsp
I feel like the business model for car audio head units has changed, and I'm not certain the old mainstream manufacturers have figured this out.
We paid $800 for wireless Carplay for a Kenwood, for my girlfriend. Of course it was from Crutchfield, so that is part of it. I hadn't done a stereo in a few decades, lol. Just did it for the documentation and guidance. I need one for mine, now, though.
I have the Dayton Audio DSP-408. And as much as I love it, I've been having issues with it communicating with the app on my phone. Also, I wish it had a higher output voltage. This headunit fits the bill. There's nothing like being able to access the DSP at the fly for tuning. Hopefully, more manufacturers will follow suit with this design.
It's been fun reading the comments. I think the brand could have a real hit on their hands, especially if they were to offer an upscale model with a faster processor and more RAM. Perhaps from there an even more upscale model with a toslink or SPDIF plus a big floating screen. If they could do all that for under $500 they would break the head unit market.
@@DIYAudioGuy yup. I agree.
PD 550 for my 13.3" joying head unit with 6 GB n 128 GB DSP optical out lte4g i Love it
@Jake Jacob I've been keeping an eye on the Joying line, too. Probably one of the few that offers optical out.
@@DIYAudioGuy I agree. I would buy it now if it had a big floating screen.
This was a great video. With so many cheaper touch screens out there, it's hard to know exactly what you're getting, until you actually buy one. This was definitely a great find, and an excellent review man! And just in time for Christmas!! Thanks so much for the video, and showing the features. Now, to just convince the wife, that I need this, lol.
Thanks, I appreciate it. Hopefully this thing will have some nice long-term durability, if it does then this is an absolute winner.
@@DIYAudioGuy you're welcome, and I agree 💯 as it's definitely loaded up for the price. If it can withstand a few years or so, then it's a total bargain. A stand alone dsp costs as much, and more, then this unit.
Well just show her comparable models from other brands and how expensive they are ,
Android auto is far superior to Apple carplay! Literally got an iPhone 13 a couple years ago & had to buy a Samsung s23 in order to get my system working properly again. Only people who've never had a good android will tell you iPhones are better. Wish I talked to someone who didn't have an iPhone before I jumped over cause like 6 android owners chimed in later to express how much better their android was
The DSP portion is really interesting as well as the volume knob. My biggest complaint is the 30 sec boot time. I don't think I could live with this in a vehicle, but maybe a bench test unit? Hmmmm
Not a bad idea.
This might be a perfect match with a JP 77
@@DIYAudioGuy yeah it def got my attention when you hit the DSP section. As you said worth the cost for just that and the clean RCA outs and volume knob
its not that bad tbh, my rpi headunit takes over a minute to boot :D
I don't know about this particular unit as I don't own one - but I have heard that other android head units only take this long to boot up initially, when the vehicle battery has been disconnected, or when the unit is being restarted. Like a phone, it just goes into sleep mode instead of turning off. So subsequent starts should be much faster.
This would also mean it is still pulling power from the yellow constant power wire to keep the circuitry alive, so I'd be curious to see what kind of current the "parasitic" drain would be. I imagine not much as these devices tend to have low-power states engineered in, but it may still be significant.
TEYES CC2 and CC3 are some actual astonishing head units with16 band equalisers and twin DSP.
Cool.
That's a nice one I haven't seen yet, Looking at options for my recently bought magnum. You forgot to mention, the ability to run both a dashcam, as well as a backup cam, off the head unit (it's in the description). with all the bad drivers out there, a little protection is needed
They sent me a pair of their cameras, hope to make a video soon!
Max PEEDING rods did start with rods. 1.8t Audi/VW was an early one. 144mm x 20mm extremely common Audi/Vw connecting rod size from what I remember
Interesting! I’m always wondering about these Amazon radios
There are tons of them out there.
I REALLY need to see a HU with the ability to record multiple streams or at least one stream of video, for safety purposes and whatnot. To have a dash cam, front and back cams should not remotely be a problem for a small device, our cell phones do it all the time. Also does this have an SD slot? Short of that, it's really an impressive unit, fuck the internal amp. The dsp features alone are amazing from what I can tell, and I like how I can set up a 2 way active with rear fill (most cars seem to do 2 way up front with a rear fill and sub now anyways.) Now if only somebody can make a compact 7 channel amp. Yes I know D4S makes one but it's pretty huge and puts out too much power. Cut the size and power in half and it's a fucking winner. honestly.
That would be cool!
The dsp is nice in it for a headunit kinda impressed
That DSP and those eight channels of output were a real surprise.
This was a really helpful review! Much better than most others on head units. Could you try other Android head unit brands like Atoto or Pumpkin?
ruclips.net/video/x_DCc865tec/видео.html
Glad I found I found your review and I appreciate how in-depth you get. This unit had been on my short list but now I think I'm convinced. Next step is trying to select the amplifier and speakers...I have an 06 Porsche Boxster with Bose sound package that I want to completely replace so out with the fiber optics etc. It's quite a noisy car anyway with the convertible top and mid engine with sports exhaust so "audiophile" equipment would be a total waste. I just want to be able to experience decent music and bass. The factory Bose unit incorporates 3 way splits in the doors, 2 small subs in a ported enclosure over the engine cover (right behind your head) and there might be a centre speaker on the top of the dash at the bar of the windshield, I haven't pulled the cover to see. Could you recommend a resource or site to find appropriate speakers and amp?
This is what you are looking for: howl.me/ciIkPqz4VY9 just plug in your car and they will show you what fits. Then when you place your order they will either throw in or direct you to all of the brackets and harnesses that you need to make everything fit.
I don't know how you can make the car quiet, especially with the top down. But some well placed sound deadening between you and the engine may help. I like the stuff from nvx. Use the foam lined product (bit.ly/3CxjWCG) when you have interior panels that contact each other. Use the heavy stuff for panels that make noise due to vibration. I have a discount code for nvx.com: diyaudio10.
iva had my dayton audio dsp 408 for 2,5yrs now and im debation getting this as a replacement bc atm i dont have a headunit and run signal straight from my phone to my dsp wich feeds my amp. ive been looking for one of these headunits to actually have a full sett of rca outputs, so this is right up my alley! thanks for a great review!
I have that DSP and I like it.
Maxspeedrods is known for affordable decent turbochargers. I’ve never heard anything bad about them. I would definitely check that head unit out
Good to know.
Their turbo bearings are hit and miss. Need 360 degree thrust bearings. Coilovers are absolutely terrible. Other then that not a bad company. I personally run their vw 1.8t splitter valve. Had nothing but good luck with it.
I have Maxspeedingrods coilover suspension in my 95 civic hatchback that I autocross and they do a great job of keeping the car planted
The biggest problem I see with this is the 2G+32G in the listing. 2g means 2 gigs of RAM, 32gb of storage. Storage may not be an issue for anyone who is conservative on the apps they install. But, 2 gigs of RAM will choke a lot of modern apps. From personal experience I can tell you Google maps is horrible with low RAM. Waze doesn't seem to do as bad however. I haven't looked any further than that into the android specs, but I'm sure this has a weak processor and almost guarantee it's not actually Android 10. Most of these companies "skin" android 8, etc to appear to be 10, 11, so on. Try something like CPU-Z to see what the API is. Then Google android api list. 10 should be API 29. But... Sometimes they fake that too. Annnnnd, sometimes they fake the specs. 2g 32g might actually be 1g 16g. I'm not saying this company is doing that, but be cautious. Google the model number etc. You'll likely find someone on XDA with info. Personally I cuss my Eonon (8227L I believe) every time I drive my car and it locks up or resets itself. That said, it's still far better than the factory basic radio. I just limit my apps to Waze and RUclips Music. That's all I really need anyway. 🤷♂️
How much would you be willing to pay for one with more ram and a faster chip?
This is something that has been the achilles heal of these tablet style units. Personally? I have always found better performance when using the phone to do all the GPS functions I need.
BUT the Bigger problem is when you start using Amazon Music and Spotify. IT EATS RAM! And CPU Power? It eats that too!
As long as you use this unit for Native Playback, You should be fine. But 2GIGS? Not even Chromebooks today run good on that with a fast current CPU.
4Gigs is the BARE minimum. Want GREAT performance? 8 Gigs is where it starts getting good with apps. 12 is where you get diminishing returns.
For Perspective? 4 Gigs of Ram was what you needed for windows XP to Fly back in the day with some Fast 15k SCSI drives on a striped array.
2024 on the way? And we still got 2Gigs being the Entry level with modern apps is just not going to cut it. Fine for a Media Playback device. Not so if you want to run Modern Bloated Apps on the thing.
As much as I like having a Headunit? Screen Mirroring is the best way to go about it going into the future. You use the phones Superior horsepower, and you getto use the tactile like functions of I/O device being your touchscreen and Physical controls to do its thing.
That way? If you want to simply upgrade? You just put in a New "BOX" and the display, much like a Keyboard or mouse is the peripheral.
You also don't have to worry about theft since everything that is worth anything is in a black box locked away. Better for security as well.
@@MickeyMishra does Android auto / Apple carplay offload processing to the phone or does it do the processing on the head unit?
@@DIYAudioGuy well... Lol... I think I dropped about 400-ish for my Eonon a few years back, somewhat regretfully. If I could get this form factor (double din / 7-8in screen), 6-8gb RAM / 128-256gb storage, a really good processor, actual supported official honest android 10 or higher, security updates, android upgrades for a reasonable amount of time, etc... I mean I'd drop $1000-1500 easily.
@@MickeyMishra so much everything you said too. The sound processing, amplification, etc in the unit and the info/sound/video coming from an external source.
Dang. That's pretty impressive! I just wanna play with the DSP. To Amazon I go 🏃🏾♂️💨😁😁
👍
Volume knob is a must... talk about trying to fix something that isnt broken. Drive a car without a volume knob on the dash for a few days; So much more aggravating than you would think.
Sometimes in some mounting kits for some vehicles ie 2013 up rams the volume knob will suck due to the mounting restrictions
Man if I hadn't already spent $600 on my head unit I would absolutely buy this. It's incredible
I was surprised.
DIY AUDIO GUY GETTING MORE VIEWS THAN THE FAB KITCHEN!!! :)))))
I am just excited to get started on the bass truck build.
Great video with no bs and just facts. You got yourself a sub
They’re out with a newer model that has USB-C, Android 13 & a 36 band EQ but it doesn’t specify if it kept 5.1 stereo. Would love a revisit of that unit to see if it’s still a great performer with external amp!
I've gotten burned on these Android units. I'll make a video, I'll point out some really good features and give it a good review, and then my comments get blown up as people buy them and they seem to all fail at a very high rate. For a head unit you really should stick with a mainstream brand, even something like a Boss will be more reliable.
@@DIYAudioGuyor even jvc, dual and jensen?
Thanks this review I just bought one. It appears to be better than he one I have from atoto a6 pf, it disappointed me with all its features it only came with a mono sub output and I seems to be 1v at best had to use the speaker output to a LOC to send signal to my amp.
Internals look exactly the same as every other chinese android head unit you can find right now from as low as $40 up to $1000. Only difference between them is slight changes to the housing and front inputs, and the software that comes preloaded. They're all totally unlocked so you can root them and install any version of android and any car audio software you want on them if you don't like the stuff that comes preloaded. I have one friend that spent $300 on one from ebay, another that spent $100 on amazon, and I just bought one recently on amazon for $40, they are all exactly the same unit. Ironically the most expensive one was the only one that had any problems, when we went to add subs to the radio anytime we connected the RCA's the door speakers would cut out and only the subs would play, I searched through the settings for hours trying to find something that could be causing it, even stranger, when we just said f it and bough a loc to bypass this issue, whenever we connected the RCA's to the loc the same thing happened again, and I was left totally baffled. HOW could the door speakers not be playing if the loc is getting its signal from them? Never did figure it out. Ended up having to get an amp for the door speakers too.
Maxxspeedingrods is crazy😂 they have amazing turbos and pretty good coilovers for the price they let you buy the cheep eBay/wish parts but with an actual brand and warranty
Good to know!
Could you add a section about the clarity and response time of the backup camera in future videos?
Unfortunately they didn't throw in a backup camera when they sent me the unit. My rule is that if a head unit company wants me to test a camera they have to send me a camera.
Exactly What I need.. LOTS of Options !!
Now to find a GREAT Compact Amp !!
Maxpeedingrod makes alot of different products for years now. They are really popular for cheap coilovers which used to be crap. In the past year they stepped up there game. I own the new version. Coilover and I love them smooth ride , they feel better than my more expensive coils on 2nd car
Wish someone would build an android unit like this with a decent built in amp. Why doesnt D4S do it? 4x50+1x100 ish should be doable in a double din space
That is a lot of heat inside of the dash!
@@DIYAudioGuy Class d and decent heat sink chassis would still be much cooler than the high output cd player head units from the 90's
Thanks for the coupon code. It beat Amazon's price by alot!
"Max-Peeding-Rods"
Legit, look at their logo. They are kind of known for silly name and making kind of OKAY car parts for the money. But they stand out by having PR and like, sponsoring youtubers and working with folks to actually make cool parts. They also apparently have pretty good support for a chinese car part company.
The BEST 12 minutes of my life. Minus that last time that lasted 3 minutes. STELLAR REVIEW!
Lol
I like the idea of the 5.1, but I haven't found a 5.1 car amp in years. Can you recommend one?
Hey I bought this because of your video and I installed it in a 1988 Honda Goldwing and ya without an amp is stinks but its way better than the factory radio oh volume is louder though I am running 2ohms and the FM radio is better and Apple Support is awesome great sound !!
can’t wait to install an amplifier and sub
I have good luck with the compact amps from Kenwood: amzn.to/3WIDhZO The speaker terminal confection is water resistant
I have an ole' 2000 VW Passat with the Monsoon audio system. I think I will give this headunit a shot and use the Monsoon amp to power my (totally dried out) speakers!
Good luck, let me know how you like it.
I'm going on few days with new radio it's good for most part but deep down I miss the volume knob
Yep, that is the main reason why I have not installed the alpine I have sitting on the shelf.
Just to clarify on the RCA outputs, you're recommending to use the 5.1 center L & R for the front speakers? I recently purchased 2 of these units for 2 different vehicles. Both are using factory type 2 way speakers with no subs, not yet anyway. Great video and very informative!
Yes, but you don't have to use all 8 DSP channels.
Ummm..., wow i just learned A LOT about car audio. Also what kind of multi meter is that? Asking for a friend.
amzn.to/4ailbpB
I have an 03 Yukon XL with Bose and plan to buy this.
Would running rca to speaker wire adapters off of the headunit instead of wiring the vehicle harness to the headunits speaker outputs work?
I'm assuming the Bose amp is only looking for a low level audio signal, not an amplified signal from the headunit.
I'm hoping to get around the Distortion the headunit has at its speakers outputs without bypassing bose and running a new amp to all of the speakers.
How do you think it'd do using an install adapter to hook to a factory bose amp in GM truck? It technically hooks to the speaker level output, but then adjusts that to go through the factory amp
very interesting......i want to for a long time use such a unit but only have single din....will need to mod the dash to take it
I love the volume knob. Gotta have it
So pretty just to make sure I fully understand, this headunit will sound great as long as it's paired with a 4 channel amp correct? I have a 18 inch sundown on a jp23 and door speakers on a skar 1000 rms 4 channel amp. Will this head unit satisfy my needs for good sound quality??
The thing that sets it apart from other Android head units are the eight channels of preamp outputs for the full DSP. Outside of that it's no better and no worse than any other Android head unit, and like all of them there's no way to know about their long-term reliability.
Volume knob and aux input are so rare now
Been looking for a budget double din and this seems to fit the bill. But a little confused. Since I'm only running doors and rear 6x9s with a sub, that would be the 2way setting, right? Which rcas would I use for that?
Yes, but not sure which RCA's to use.
Need a video of how to set the crossovers on this:)
I have an Android radio and you definitely need to spring for the faster processor, more RAM otherwise it's miserably slow.
And yes it'll play loud but distorted audio lol. I've yet to own one that doesn't need an amp.
Make your own RTA: ruclips.net/video/7orJovlXvBM/видео.html
Get the head unit here: amzn.to/3B7A7a5
Forgive my ignorance on this specific topic. Coming from an old school perspective.
I have a simple question. Running an amp to a component set that is furnished with a cross over.
With this internal DSP. Would I forgo the supplied cross over on simply connect the amp directly to the tweeter and mid bass to the amp. Select full on the amp and tune the tweeters/ mid base in the head unit?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Yes, you can. But you don't have to. If you don't want all the extra amp channels you don't have to use them.
Love it thank you! Volume knobs are a plus! 💖💖💖
I just installed a cheap android unit and have already ordered a usb volume knob to add to my set up.
as a mechaninic i use max speeding rods stuff a lot they ar every cost effective especially here in jamaica where our dollar has very little value ...thanks4 the radio ...i been looking for 1 with those features ...didnt know MSR sold them only car parts
What do you think about the sound quality side by side with a reputable company head unit that has the same 4V outputs? What would you think about testing both units with the same quality amplifier and speakers? Does it have enough DSP and EQ to equal a Pioneer side by side? I know somebody running one of these android units with the head unit amp is definitely junk like you said in the video.
All good questions, I guess I am waiting on pioneer to send me a unit so I can do that test.
@@DIYAudioGuy but how did the audio quality sound to you in person when you did the test? how about Low frequencies? Talking about volume under 30 before it started distorting.
@user-vb2xu7me9g I've been playing with it on the bench for a few days. Hooked up 2 6x9 infinity 9632ix's. Sounds amazing, just the speakers sitting on bench. Tune the eq a little depending on what music and it's pretty damn good. Of course it should be better with some more power, but I'm impressed with these speakers attached as is. I think it checks what I want and I'll likely never use some of the features that involve connecting my phone. I just hope it lasts.
Does the DSP does it have by chance time alignment on the speakers? Having over 4 volts on all those RCA’s a big selling point.
What was the piece of equipment you measured the rca volts with ? Then what was it you used to check what frequency the certain marked rca’s were? Thanks for all your great videos.😊
that 40 second bootup is a deal killer... that sucks. would be a good unit if it were 5-9 seconds. does this come with a larger screen? like a 10/13/17" screen?
That was the initial boot up, afterwards it held memory and booted up pretty quick.
thats a parabolic eq not a parametric eq. parametric sets the curves for set points and they dont change. parabolic changes the curves at any point, there is a differene. i use parabolic term a lot on my channel in refernce to dayton audio dsp and people try to correct me and say parametric. i shake my head and give the explanation of the 2. i like your channeland your videos. i promise im not hating just saying. id ;ike to know your thoughts on this.
I have never heard of a parabolic EQ.
I have a set of H beam rods and a turbo from Maxspeedingrods. No issues with them.
Good to know.
can you review the navirider or belsee units? I see one for my car a 2018 honda accord, but I hear mixed reviews about it.
Great video overall but please sensor any home assistant requests.
Also it might be the videography but the unit looks laggy
Yes, it was a little slow to respond.
This looks cool, but not sure how I could mount this in my 2010 Ford E250. Thinking of buying one just for my garage to play tunes and feed into an external amplifier. Then I can use the DSP to fine tune my speakers for a flat response. Or build a boom box and use this for the main interface.
The last time I did an install in a heavy duty Ford it was actually pretty easy. No dash kit was required just had to mount the radio behind the dash make sure it lined up properly and trim a little bit of the factory dash out of the way.
@@DIYAudioGuy Thanks I will look into it, I will also look for some RUclips videos for a possible install video for my Van.
Were you able to test the screen rotation?
I'll stick with my 10 years old Alpine - boots in couple seconds, handsfree, radio, DAC... and great design.
What's up with the HDMI? Any use for it, or access to it?
Just want to make sure I understand, so in the 2 way or 3 way mode each channel has its on cut off frequency? Like you can set a mid bass to play everything above 80hz and nothing above let’s say 4500hz, then set tweeter to play 4500hz and above.
Yes. One thing I do not like, it is not clear which crossover channel routs to which RCA output. It would be wise to do some testing to verify. You don't want to smoke a tweeter by connecting it to the wrong channel. You don't need anything fancy. An old connected to your amp will do the trick.
@@DIYAudioGuy I appreciate it. I have several old ones laying around. So what I gathered was the only thing it was lacking was the each channel doesn’t have a separate eq. It just has a one main eq page. If that makes sense.
Recently bought a nice flip out screen stereo made by Dual Electronics. It looked really nice but man it sounded like crap. After two weeks started having issues like freezing screen. Returned that sucker back to amazon. I only paid $79 for it so yeah it was too good to be true
Thanks for the video! This is exactly what I was looking for. I am going to use it in a VW Jetta with the monsoon amp. Do you think this will work since the monsoon amp uses speaker level inputs since the signal is clean until volume 29?
I would not use the onboard amplifier on this unit for anything.
Man. If they made this with a 10.1 floating screen and idatalink maestro compatible, I'd get this.
I need a shallow mount radio for my 2014 ford explorer. REALLY SICK of that ford Mytouch and sony system.
Great head unit 👍 kind of corn-fused... occasionally
Interesting option... I may deal with the crappy internal amp until I've got the funds for the dedicated amps... May have to go triple amps. 1x mono for a sub, 1x 4 channel and a 2 channel for some kick panel speakers. Fuck you, Ford for the oddball 5x7/6x8 speaker mounting that fits almost nothing but stock, so I've gotta go 5.25" coaxial in the rear, keep the 5x7/6x8 components in the doors, and throw new kick panels with 6.5" components in.
Specifically eyeballing JBL 52F, 862CF, and 62CF. Not sure on a sub. Possibly Dayton E180HE-44, possibly a 10". Not sure yet. I'll be pulling the fold down seat on the driver's side and building a box to sit in it's place.
I loved my Sony XAV-AX100 for the simple fact it had a knob.
I'm done with these damn Android units though, they've all shoddy garbage. I haven't had one that does even simple Bluetooth phone calls without problems.
The one I got has a fan too, but it doesn't power it on! Doesn't matter how hot it gets (and yes I connected the cable) it stays off.
I hate to break it to you but that back of the head unit is a standard Chinese layout. This is probably either a PX5 PX6 or TS-10 or TS-18 head unit which you can get everywhere cheaply especially AliExpress
I could confirm if it's a TS-10 if you measure the output voltage if it reads roughly 1.5 volts then it most definitely is a TS-10 or TS-18. Not to say that it's bad that's what my car uses
All right I was disproved but I'll leave my comments for posterity
Can you change the started logo to the car brand?
Probably should test it with actual car speakers and not home speakers. The resistance rating is higher on home speakers and will distort easier.
The newer androide-phones has the lowest eq-setting at 63hz... can you belive that!? The subwoofer in my car sounds terrible after i switch to a new phone. Completly refusing to play lows.
Any suggestion on what to do with that?
Love youre videoes btw. Learning alot👍
That's odd. I never really looked at my phone settings. It just seems to work.
So the cold boot time is kinda slow. How about a warm boot, also just as slow?
I did not measure it, must not have been to bad since I did not notice it.
Thanks for sharing @DIY Audio Guy!
Sure thing!
Thanks for the review! I'm about to buy this thing but I really need to know if the DSP will allow good-old-fashione Front/Rear/Sub configuration. I've got passive crossovers for each set of components
Yes it will.
@@DIYAudioGuy great!! Thanks!!