Why A John Deere Lawn Tractor Kept Flooding & Repair
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- Why A John Deere Lawn Tractor Kept Flooding & Repair
In this video I show you an easy fix to an uncommon carburetor flooding problem on a John Deere GX255 tractor.
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This video is as much a lesson in humility as it is a lesson in small engine repair. Acknowledging your willingness to ask others for help along with giving credit to your friend (mentor?) for his insight rather than shooting the video as if you knew the source of the problem from the onset demonstrates your strength of character.
Some of the smallest things can drive you crazy. Great advice to bounce ideas off of someone else, and I would say even if they don't have as much knowledge or experience it's possible something they think about can help you see the problem from a different angle.
Donny, thanks for the video. You really helped me out. I was doing a little PM today replacing the air filter and fuel filter this afternoon; and also removing the deck to clean, lube, and replace my blades on my GX255 with the same model Kawasaki. . When putting the deck back on I started it to turn the front wheels to get the 54c deck underneath. Started and ran just fine - just has it always has with 980+ hours. Once the deck was back on and all zerks greased I wanted to start it and it just cranked. Immediately I thought I put the fuel filter on backwards - no it was fine and passing fuel with no problems. Eventually after trouble shooting and checking all manner of electrical and fuel system parts and eliminating electrical... (by now my father in-law was helping) we were about to tear into the carburetor. He suggested to just look on youtube. I searched "gx255 kawasaki 20 fuel issue", your video came up and the rest is history. I agree with you and other comments that it is a stupid design and it will be trimmed. Funny that I have 980+ hours and never had that happen before. You saved me time and most likely some money. Thank you
I just wanted to add this information... a year later. Donyboy73 thank you for all your hard work posting these videos. A year later and am having another issue with this carb (not complaining with 1000+ hrs on this machine and zero problems). Just some information for those who are digging into these problems. Apparently, the GX255 was only made between 2004 and 2005. I have found during my research to fix this problem that during this time (2004-2005) they had two different carbs on the Kawasaki FH601V-DS15-R, you will need to determine what carb you have. Carb #1 was an internally vented carb and Carb #2 was an externally vented carb (apparently the externally vented carb has the vent hose that this video references. I have the externally vented carb. The externally vented carb is Kawasaki Part number# 15003-7077. You can either order a new carb with that part number (in June 2020 you are looking around $300 US - some higher and some lower, and this is for a genuine Kawasaki carb) or you can order the rebuild kit with a John Deere Part number of AM132393. Rebuild kit in June 2020 is about $40 US.
I hope this information was helpful for some. I am trying the rebuild route - a good excuse to buy an ultrasonic cleaner...lol
@@theodoreschulz6429 Thanks, your rebuild kit part number led me to the Deere parts catalog :-). Have you rebuilt your carb yet? Also, do (or did) you see a little bit of fuel at the bottom of the air intake pipe after running/using the tractor (akin to donyboy73 stating his was full of fuel)? I do in mine (2005 GX335 w/externally vented carb), not sure if this is okay or not, but it doesn't seem correct to me. I got an improvement in engine running by clearing out the end of the vent hose, and I was hoping the fuel in the bottom of the air pipe would cease. But it's the same as it was. My symptom was (and maybe still is) - I experienced stumbling about 5-10 seconds after I start it up if the engine is warm-to-hot and it has sat for about 15 minutes. It eventually cleared up after I ran it at WOT for a couple of minutes. It SEEMS like it could have been caused by that fuel in the bottom of the air pipe (it's not full, just a little bit in there after the engine runs). It's too early to tell if clearing the vent tube has fixed my problem, as I'll need hotter weather to know. I'd be curious to know if the @donyboy73 vent tube fix has completely cleared up the fuel in the air pipe he was experiencing, or if he can also still see a little bit in there. Thanks in advance!
@@bw6480 I did rebuild the carb in June 2020. Went together well but developed a similar problem about 5 hours in where the plugs were just getting loaded up. I do not know if I have a problem with the needle valve not seating properly or the left/right side main jets. The left and right main jets are not a part of the rebuilt kit and are "fixed" and for some reason they are really hard to come by. If I recall, in June, when I was digging deep into this they were discontinued. The deere part numbers are M147607 and M147608. I cannot seem to find a Kawasaki breakdown where you can buy individual parts - but you can still buy the whole carb and rebuild kits. I know the needle valve can be affected by bad fuel but I am super picky about my fuel and run only fresh ethanol free fuel with a stabilizer and regularly service my fuel filter. I changed my stabilizer to see if that was the problem and no difference. I will say a word of caution with seafoam, in my case seafoam was not a good additive for this engine in my situation. I did have some fuel at the bottom of the air intake.
Throughout the summer I just dealt with is replacing plugs and cleaning the used ones in the ultrasonic cleaner with simple green. I almost pulled the plug... and purchased a zero turn or a x7 series but I still think I can get some more life out of my 255. I performed the transmission service in the fall and found that I needed to replace all of my drive belts including the main drive belt. During that project, I find that the frame had cracked on the passenger side just forward of the transmission axle. After a little searching this was a somewhat common problem and who knows how long it has been cracked. The transaxle actually picked up the stress and it did not cause any more problems. My father in law welded it anyway just to be on the safe side. Now I think that I will get a brand new carburetor and see how it goes. If I relied on this for a business machine I would have probably purchased something new. All I do is mow a few acres a week and if it doesn't get done on time it's not a big deal. For 16 years old and with 1000+ hours im happy with it. I have seen some on the tractor forums with 3,000+ hours so I'm just getting it broke in!
Hey i got a buddy like that.....YOU! Thnls for all you do Donny! Hope the family is well.
It's always good to have a go to guy. Everybody needs one. When baffled I turn to the Donyboy73. Thany you!
A buddy of mine who I look up to for small engine advice makes RUclips videos.
They call him donyboy73.
Hey Dony, thanks for the videos. I have a Craftsman with the same type of carb.
Great job Don I would have done the same thing pulling the Carby apart nothing worse when you spend all that time and its a simple fix
Great video Donny. I had a similar problem this year with the father in-law's Deere lawn tractor. Unluckily, it was operator error and i had to explain to him that he should place the key in the cupholder after parking it. Cleaning carbs is fine but changing gas-laden oil twice is the pits.
This was a good troubleshooting video. What is the purpose of the vent hose?
Who would have ever guessed! Thanks Don.
Great tip about the hose
Awesome videos Donny mate cheers from Australia you can't kill a John Deere lawn tractor for sure
Hey Dony! Great video as always. I have John Deere model 135, an older model, never had that issue but I'm going to keep it in mind. I thought, like you, a carb issue. That vent arrangement is really a poor design, besides being too long, it should have a cap or something at the end of the line to prevent dirt from getting in there, sort of like the vent on Echo trimmers. Thanks for the vid Dony, have a great weekend
Great video, even the most experienced of us can miss a simple cause. I have done the same, I would have done the very same thing! Keep it simple.
Great info Dony! All of us at almost any level need a mentor or sounding block buddy...
I love these type of stories don thanks for sharing . can I call you don, I do spend a lot of time with you.
That must have been fun, lesson learned. It's always the simplest problems that are most annoying.
Thanks
Hi Don: I watched your early vid to clean an older Briggs one piece carb ( tank and carb). It was only start on prime 3 times, after cleaning , start and soon flooding the engine. plug is full of gas. Why?
Cool Don. Those are tricky types of troubles
I once owned a klf300 kawasaki and I had a similar problem on it. The vent hose got melted when it hit one of the exhaust pipes on the at. I did the same as you - I clipped off the melted part
Great information and troubleshooting! Have a good weekend!
I'll check that on my Deere , Thank you !
Hello Don boy I was driving my L120 John Deere after work cutting grass an hour and 45 minutes then it was starting to surge you will turn over but will not run anymore please help me find out the problem thank you God be with you
Thank you I'll remember that with my Deere,love your channel!!
Good tip. I hate it when dumb things cause the biggest problems
Same problem with my Gator -mud dobber plugged it up
thanks for this ...
Thanks man I'll give that a try.
Thx Dony have a great night. Keith
The same thing happened to me on my 16 hp Briggs opposed twin except it still runs just fine. Lol.
Hate to say it but, its a facepalm situation. At least, you are man enough to share this information. Thank you.
MURPHY STRIKES AGAIN :-) LOVE THESE TIPS AND TRICKS.
Sometimes those vent hoses will get pushed up against the muffler and start melting, too. Is there some reason that the vent hose needs to go way down almost to the deck? Why do you need the hose at all?
Good advice..thank you
I don't have that type of tractor, but do have two lawn mowers with the Kawasaki engines on them, and wonder if it could happen on them also.
Dirt daubers will clog hoses up with mud too. I noticed your carb butterfly was completely open. Normally it is not and can not. The only difference between the 601 and 25 hp is the butterfly opening, you can use a dremel or buy a new shaft and turn it into a 25 hp. Also, the 25 hp does have the little external oil cooler which is a bolt on item. A very small piece of foam inserted in the hose end will keep dirt daubers from clogging up a hose. The 601 was considered a 19 hp.
I have one that was flooding so I replaced the carburetor. The new one doesn't have vent tube and is still flooding. Float is working what else could it be
Hello, do you give advise? I have a JD GT 245 it turns over fine but wont start. full tank of gas, took the hose off of the fuel pump and turned over with positive fuel flow. it will run if I put gas down the carb with squirt bottle.
excellent channel man thank-you again!
Can somebody bronze a statue of this guy!!!!
lol
@@donyboy73 do you make house calls??? Lol
Had the same problem with there push mower engines
Gee, how I needed to see this video. Thanks mate. I have a problem with same motor and carb according to the code FH601V DS15 R. Having problems getting parts for carburette here in Australia and also choke and throttle cables with the retainer clip that holds the rods in place being on the outside of the lever rather than inside of lever attached to shaft. Found one online but seller in the States won't ship to Australia. What advise can you give me. Thanks in anticipation. Everything runs correctly except that the throttle stays open when I throttle down. I have to go and close it by hand.
just find a shop in australia that sells kawasaki parts, you don't need to go to JD dealer, hope this helps
What would make your videos a lot better would be if you would explain WHY something doesn't work, as opposed to just pointing and saying "do this, do that."
I don't know if you ever used to watch Davidsfarm, but he would go into the DETAILS as to HOW things work, using proper terminology and sometimes drawing pictorial diagrams. That man was an excellent teacher.
Would be nice if you could pick up on that style.
Walter's Playground
He did explain why.
His videos always do explain how things work and why..
Sounds like you drank too much beer before typing and got a case of douche nozzle.
Sweet........
Sounds like a Harley Davidson
😉😉😉😉
Hey Don, Great tip and time saver, thanks! Funny how the little things can rob our time.
Stay well JoeZ
.THAT WAS IT BUD thank you so much I was about to burn it . lol so simple and cheep
I'd like to chime in on why I think the blocked vent tube may have caused the problem. First of all, what a fluke for the tube to have been caught by the pulley and belt and not to have been torn out of the engine. Obviously the tube got caught just as the pulley was stopping, probably just as the deck was raised. Also, note that the engine was running fine as the machine was parked, even if this took only a few seconds after raising the deck. Now Dony turns off the engine and now the flooding starts. 1)But not caused by pressure in the fuel bowl. While the engine was running, fuel was entering the bowl under control of the needle valve, and exiting through the jets with more or less constant air pressure in the bowl. But fuel is not being put through the jets by pressure, rather it is being sucked out of the bowl through the jets by the vacuum in the carburetor's venturiis created by the pistons during their intake strokes. The jets simply draw on the fairly constant volume of fuel in the bowl provided by the fuel pump and needle valve. There is no pressurized fuel in the carb. 2)When the engine is turned off with the vent tube blocked, a siphon is created from the fuel tank, through the fuel pump, through the fuel bowl, and out of the jets. It will then simply flow to the lowest available point and collect. This is the fuel Dony saw. A properly working vent tube breaks the siphon at the fuel bowl. Since the jets are above the needle valve in the fuel bowl, no fuel will flow if the vent is clear. (The flow through the "siphon" was started when the engine was running; when the engine was turned off, the siphon just kept flowing. In theory, it could have drained the fuel tank.)
I'm having the same problem but mines doesn't have the vent hose.
good vid well done//////// been there had a wasp up it
wow sounds like mine
love your videos
I don't understand how a blocked vent would cause the carb to flood. Can you enlighten?
Thanks,
RichE
it creates an air lock and as the fuel pump keeps pushing fuel in it has no where to go but in the carb
Love it.
Don, Don't beat yourself up about it, it's such an unlikely and unexpected fault that it would have never crossed your mind or your viewers minds.
I've never checked the vent tube on any engine in 30 years, they just don't fail do they :-).
It's likely you will never see another failure in the vent ever again :-).
Can anyone explain what the vent has to do with flooding?
Koffi Banan,
because the vent is blocked, the trapped air pressure inside the bowl forces all the fuel up through the central metering tubes and creates a fountain of fuel inside the airway.
It's the only way the air/fuel pressure can get out.
of course! silly me I was only considering the needle float seat as a way for fuel to exit, while that wouldn't even flood the carb... Need to think first before commenting :)
BTW, I see you commenting on almost every channel I subscribe to :p
LOL well im everywhere, like a common cold, a dam nusance LOL :-D
You like the same channels i do :-D
If you think about the trapped air in the bowl, it never manages to escape, and as more fuel enters the bowl the air gets compressed and it forces the fuel level down, the fuel must escape so up through the jets/tubes it goes and floods the top of the carb.
Because the fuel level never manages to rise in the bowl, the float never gets a chance to cut the fuel off.
That might be a slightly better discription :-D
Why would that cause it to flood tho?
Hmmm. There were 48 comments posted prior to yours. Maybe, just maybe, one of them answers your question.
Remember what I told when we need to check the electrical systems on planes before we start taking it apart: The Basics....
I knew your answer ...
That looks like a Nikki 6 carb.
Seriously!!! Someone disliked this video?????
usually other shop owners and jealous people with no skills who don't know how to make videos
Likes and dislikes are helpful on your Chanel because a video more likes than dislikes tells you what your fans enjoy and one with more dislikes than likes tells you that your fans don't want to see that kind of stuff.
Probably a dislike from the guy who assembled the tractor at the factory who was responsible for installing the vent hose.
Ha, or the engineer who specified such a long vent hose.
Probably because this isn't what is wrong with their carb, or just a dickhead.
Actually it's a garden tractor
Hey Donyboy
Need help have a john deere la 115 keeps flooding it self bad it has a brings and Stratton motor on it can you please help my business Facebook page is Jason's small engine repair I'm on google if you want to get a hold of me i would love to hear you advice
Thanks