FYI i checked GKN’s catalog the axles have different lengths and the joints are different diameters so for anything other than temporary i wouldn’t advise interchanging the axle shafts.
Before I even start watching this video. I think it would be a good idea for channel and the community to make a video called: "do not launch in second gear ever" and explain what happened and why. So happy it was just an axle And yes I would replace that other one now if it is indeed stronger anyway
Well although i agree this car shouldn't be launched in 2nd. It really seems most people think its the better option. Im not sure i could deal with the comments section on a video with that title haha.
If you purchase a M axel just make sure the rear hud (the side that fits against the diff) is the same size, I know that they are digger in dimensions and the axel tube is also a bigger size.
Whiteline make bushings for the suspension, subframe and diff. I think they are an Australian company. I have their subframe bushings. Manual transmissions cars have 38mm axle shafts. Automatic cars have 35mm axle shafts. This is based on RealOEM.
@@Fix_It_Again_Tony Well i made the assumptions the axles in my car were original. They are not something that really fail on normal power cars (like my car when i got it). That said the outer part did look different to all the genuine axles i have seen. So maybe they have been changed.
I’m actually running the M factory axels and diff no issues so far going on a year plus on the axels multiple launches and about 6 plus months on the diff. I also made my own diff brace a noticeable difference, also great communication from m factory axel wise. I recommend them.
Power flex make bush inserts, pretty easy to fit n about £100, also get a decent 4wheel alignment done! All u do with the bush inserts is remove the subframe bolts at the back n the 4 bolts either side at the front n I can lower the subframe n get them in, I done mine couple of weeks ago, made a huge difference
The inserts are great for cars with pretty fresh bushes, but less effective the older and more worn everything is, its long-term worth getting some solid bushes put in, they're still reasonably enough priced. Have to drop the subframe + tougher install is the downside. Either way, it's a HUGE help for wheel hop, I've seen some good videos showing how much the subframe deflects under load, and it's not a tiny bit, those wild geometry oscillations/changes translate directly to the diff/axle/wheel
@@flinchy952 yeah I’ve seen a few videos n the subframes move a massive amount under the car especially when an lsd is installed, M3 subframe bushes are meant to be the better solution as they are filled with fluid 🤷🏼♂️n meant to stop the subframe from moving! When I installed the inserts I literally just lowered the subframe by undoing the bolts I mentioned, left the drive shafts and diff still attached n it hung there fine, I would of thought u can probably get the bushes out like that n not have to completely remove it all
@@br4d101 if you're going to go to the trouble of installing M3 mounts (which yes, are an upgrade) you should just install solid ones - they don't add any NVH and are the maximum upgrade for it I think you're right, that you can rig up some tools to have it so you only have to lower the subframe to do the bushes yeah. It rings a bell.
FYI the car will be louder if you put an exhaust straight to the back and not have it exhaust from down under, I started mine up after cutting the mufflers away, it was kind of like this, then when I installed the replacement pipes it became instantly louder.
If joint doesn't want to slip easily into the hub (I think it should), then cleaning both splines with wire brush and some anti seize should help. If you have to hammer the joint in, it means splines are dirty, worn or damaged. Great content, as always! :)
Axles in my X5 are tight, i thought the same clean and grease etc. No, you need a pushing tool to push axle through hub and a puller to pull axle through again. I know for next time.
@@123hoffie Well, that's a bummer. Apparently you need special tool for everything these days... I'm planning to change my car to bmw so this can be genuinely useful tip for me. Thanks :)
Good work, glad you could use a temporary fix. If you do the maths, torque pretty much only transmits through the outside, the middle doesn't really help, hence hollow axles etc.
A shop busted my axle when hitting back in once. Grease flung everywhere. If you have a welder, you can create an axle puller tool with an old axle nut. Flip it over to the flat side, weld a nut onto the back of it, and you'll have enough threads to pull the axle in. Cheap tool!
That is why i didnt really want to show people how i fitted it back in i have heard of a few horror stories. If only i had a welder..... or knew how to weld.. haha. But i have seen people making them. I will probably just suck it up and buy one tho.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Definitely cheaper than a new axle (again)! The shop who broke mine wouldn't fess up to it, either... That fiasco ended up costing me about $400 USD all together. Ironically the reason why I went to a shop is because I *didn't* have the axle puller.
Good deal! You should put some antiseiz or lube on the axel to keep it from sticking. That's a trick we do in the east coat of the us, everything rusts here.
I think as time went on you found out the bushings don't fix Jack Rabbiting (Axle Tramp). I wish I knew what does my E46 M3 has that problem unless I'm going sideways LOL.
So I know you said the M3 rear end is expensive for the rear end and diff but if I were you I’d still look for a totaled M3 car not just the rear and the parts would be well worth it. Since watching the video I have found the perfect one I’ve been looking for from an auctioning company. It Has a complete smashed front end and no one want it so if everything goes right I’ll have the car for a little more than $300 USD (taxes and fees it yet added) . I’m already lining up a buyer for the engine so I can make money off the car while I take everything else I want or need. If you happen to come across the same thing I think you’d take the build to the next step which is going to have to come eventually anyways but at a cheaper price and who know if the M3 you find has parts you don’t need or want sell them to found the n54 builds. Another great videos as always keep up the good work.
It's possible to swap a e60 m5 or e63 m6 diff with a little bit of grinding. Those lsd are much cheaper, at least where i am. U would need a custom driveshaft and e90 m3 axles. I sourced mine from ebay USA, not too expensive.
@J B the insides are the same, the input and output flanges are the same, but the case is different. M5,M6 is a bit longer, so you need to trim it a bit. Otherwise is bolt on.
Great work you should be alright with that drive shaft. Try to buy a m3 e90-e93 parts car for the rear sub frame. Also why does it look like you have been on the road side for a night lol
Well the left and right sides are actually different lengths anyway as the diff isn't actually centred in the middle of the car. Although they are physically different thickness's it wont actually have an impact on anything balance related.
This is why you need to be on 18” wheels(tyre flex 💪)and poly bush the diff Why You Not Listen . Do you know what’s coming next ? Pretty sure I do . Keep on keeping on. Content fabulous.
I would recommend the 034 Motorsports aluminum subframe inserts because they're inexpensive, easy to install and make a HUGE difference! However, I did notice that they put more stress on my diff bushings which I'm kicking myself for not changing when I did my m factory diff 😭 I still think they'd be worth a shot though since you're getting the diff brace!
Yeah, i think i will need to just replace all the rear end bushes eventually. Like i mentioned, just trying to keep the spending a little more reserved..... this car has cost too much money this year.
My only concern is potentially slight un-even load on the diff under wheel spin with slightly different axels. Might be worth doing both axels even if only temporary, unless you plan on baby-ing it?
same mounting points, but the large housing has a shorter drive shaft. if he wants to do a large housing swap he can get a 2007 335 auto driveshaft and itll work fine.
M diff swap can be a good bit cheaper than $5k, no need for the full rear (but man, covid tax is a hell of a thing, the full rear has already been creeping up by the thousand every year or two 🥴. I remember when they could be under $2k landed) I've seen recent posts about the mfactory axles breaking, with massive corrosion on the chinesium that absolutely puts your turbo hotsides to shame, really dark, thick, pitted rust. There's a pair of M3 axles local for $400 on m3post, M5 driveshaft is about $300au landed on eBay, plus whatever it costs to get them spliced together, I guess a few hundred And not too long ago I saw an M5 (3.62) diff on eBay for $850ish landed, which would just need an m3 cover to fit, but it seems to be sold now. I've bought one each of 3.15 and 3.85 M3 diffs locally for $500 + some cheap enough fixes over the past 6-9 months. Man I really should have bought that M5 one just because... Covid hasn't done M3/5 diff prices any favours it seems, but if you keep an eye out it's very much possible you'd be able to get it all done for under $2000. Still a bit but I'd trust the M3 axles more than mfactory ones, plus the driveshaft cv is upgraded too then
I have emailed mfactory addressing similar concerns and its pretty fair to say the M3 axles are stronger. At the end of the day the mfactory axles are still pretty expensive. My current LSD would be a great option for a lower power track car, so i am sure i should get a reasonable price for that and i am keeping that in mind. It just comes down to what's available. I am searching marketplace, ebay on the daily for a complete M3 rear end. But like i mentioned the last one i saw was about 6 months ago and the dude wanted big money so im not holding my breath. Im not huge power for a N54 and not manual, so really surprised i managed to pop that axle on the street. Thanks for all ther info i hadn't looked in to the M5 diff either, so thats something else i will start looking at.
@@ZeroTo60Tube I'll shout if I spot any for a reasonable price Complete rear ends are absurd - I've put mine together piecemeal, and it's cost me something like $3500, albeit with upgraded bushes and mounts etc.
Hey Andrew, this makes them better (particularly under hard braking) without being harsh. www.sparesbox.com.au/part/whiteline-kdt918-subframe-mount-bushing-kdt918 It also helps under hard acceleration with the back end moving about
Contact straightsoxautoparts they are on Instagram and eBay they have everything. One thing is they are us but with the deals they have it might make sense after potential shipping cost
0:49 Everyone makes the same face when they hear that chime.
Nothing ruins a cruise like this chime but for low fuel.
Scariest thing to hear
FYI i checked GKN’s catalog the axles have different lengths and the joints are different diameters so for anything other than temporary i wouldn’t advise interchanging the axle shafts.
Before I even start watching this video.
I think it would be a good idea for channel and the community to make a video called: "do not launch in second gear ever" and explain what happened and why.
So happy it was just an axle
And yes I would replace that other one now if it is indeed stronger anyway
Well although i agree this car shouldn't be launched in 2nd. It really seems most people think its the better option. Im not sure i could deal with the comments section on a video with that title haha.
Ive got electric cut outs on my 335 and it sounds so good open lol, and the ability to close them when i need to is awesome
If you purchase a M axel just make sure the rear hud (the side that fits against the diff) is the same size, I know that they are digger in dimensions and the axel tube is also a bigger size.
Whiteline make bushings for the suspension, subframe and diff. I think they are an Australian company. I have their subframe bushings.
Manual transmissions cars have 38mm axle shafts. Automatic cars have 35mm axle shafts. This is based on RealOEM.
Yeah, its all a bit weird, see my auto had 38mm. But maybe they had been changed previously.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Yeah, thats just want RealOEM says. Didn't you say you thought the axles were not stock? What transmission is in the parts car?
@@Fix_It_Again_Tony Well i made the assumptions the axles in my car were original. They are not something that really fail on normal power cars (like my car when i got it). That said the outer part did look different to all the genuine axles i have seen. So maybe they have been changed.
I’m definitely watching all your ads. Keep the build going!!
Awesome thank you!
I’m actually running the M factory axels and diff no issues so far going on a year plus on the axels multiple launches and about 6 plus months on the diff. I also made my own diff brace a noticeable difference, also great communication from m factory axel wise. I recommend them.
Hey dude! Good to hear. What sort of power are you running?
@@ZeroTo60Tube I’m at around 600hp to the wheels
Power flex make bush inserts, pretty easy to fit n about £100, also get a decent 4wheel alignment done! All u do with the bush inserts is remove the subframe bolts at the back n the 4 bolts either side at the front n I can lower the subframe n get them in, I done mine couple of weeks ago, made a huge difference
The inserts are great for cars with pretty fresh bushes, but less effective the older and more worn everything is, its long-term worth getting some solid bushes put in, they're still reasonably enough priced. Have to drop the subframe + tougher install is the downside.
Either way, it's a HUGE help for wheel hop, I've seen some good videos showing how much the subframe deflects under load, and it's not a tiny bit, those wild geometry oscillations/changes translate directly to the diff/axle/wheel
@@flinchy952 yeah I’ve seen a few videos n the subframes move a massive amount under the car especially when an lsd is installed, M3 subframe bushes are meant to be the better solution as they are filled with fluid 🤷🏼♂️n meant to stop the subframe from moving!
When I installed the inserts I literally just lowered the subframe by undoing the bolts I mentioned, left the drive shafts and diff still attached n it hung there fine, I would of thought u can probably get the bushes out like that n not have to completely remove it all
@@br4d101 if you're going to go to the trouble of installing M3 mounts (which yes, are an upgrade) you should just install solid ones - they don't add any NVH and are the maximum upgrade for it
I think you're right, that you can rig up some tools to have it so you only have to lower the subframe to do the bushes yeah. It rings a bell.
@@flinchy952 have u installed the solid bushings? I see they have good reviews, might get a set if these power flex inserts don’t last!
FYI the car will be louder if you put an exhaust straight to the back and not have it exhaust from down under, I started mine up after cutting the mufflers away, it was kind of like this, then when I installed the replacement pipes it became instantly louder.
If joint doesn't want to slip easily into the hub (I think it should), then cleaning both splines with wire brush and some anti seize should help. If you have to hammer the joint in, it means splines are dirty, worn or damaged.
Great content, as always! :)
Axles in my X5 are tight, i thought the same clean and grease etc. No, you need a pushing tool to push axle through hub and a puller to pull axle through again. I know for next time.
@@123hoffie Well, that's a bummer. Apparently you need special tool for everything these days... I'm planning to change my car to bmw so this can be genuinely useful tip for me. Thanks :)
Thanks, very handy. What about swapping the large for small diff? Just driveshaft swap?
Good work, glad you could use a temporary fix.
If you do the maths, torque pretty much only transmits through the outside, the middle doesn't really help, hence hollow axles etc.
A shop busted my axle when hitting back in once. Grease flung everywhere. If you have a welder, you can create an axle puller tool with an old axle nut. Flip it over to the flat side, weld a nut onto the back of it, and you'll have enough threads to pull the axle in. Cheap tool!
That is why i didnt really want to show people how i fitted it back in i have heard of a few horror stories. If only i had a welder..... or knew how to weld.. haha. But i have seen people making them. I will probably just suck it up and buy one tho.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Definitely cheaper than a new axle (again)! The shop who broke mine wouldn't fess up to it, either... That fiasco ended up costing me about $400 USD all together. Ironically the reason why I went to a shop is because I *didn't* have the axle puller.
Good deal! You should put some antiseiz or lube on the axel to keep it from sticking. That's a trick we do in the east coat of the us, everything rusts here.
Great point!
I think as time went on you found out the bushings don't fix Jack Rabbiting (Axle Tramp). I wish I knew what does my E46 M3 has that problem unless I'm going sideways LOL.
They helped, and to be fair the stiffer shocks did too. But the LSD always had a bit of tramp. Open diff never a problem
Replace the other bugger!
Best thing for doing 0-60 would be a diff brace, it costs around $100, will prevent a lot of issues, would even recommend for a stock 335i.
Andre from HP Academy has had issues with drive shaft shop recently.
So I know you said the M3 rear end is expensive for the rear end and diff but if I were you I’d still look for a totaled M3 car not just the rear and the parts would be well worth it. Since watching the video I have found the perfect one I’ve been looking for from an auctioning company. It Has a complete smashed front end and no one want it so if everything goes right I’ll have the car for a little more than $300 USD (taxes and fees it yet added) . I’m already lining up a buyer for the engine so I can make money off the car while I take everything else I want or need. If you happen to come across the same thing I think you’d take the build to the next step which is going to have to come eventually anyways but at a cheaper price and who know if the M3 you find has parts you don’t need or want sell them to found the n54 builds. Another great videos as always keep up the good work.
@J B that sucks I’m sorry to hear that
Don't know why I'm so good at this movement 😂
Still loving the daily content 👌
instead of cutouts why not use xforce varex muffler they go from straight through to closed with button or app and i beleive its aussi company.
Why not change the drivers side as well? It didn’t look that healthy.
Great video as always!
It's gonna stay in until that one snaps or both get upgraded.
Thank you both for always putting up awesome real life videos. you both are bloody legends keep them coming 10/10
thanks for love mick. Appreciate it.
Easy fix is always a great fix👍🏻
You got that right!
It's possible to swap a e60 m5 or e63 m6 diff with a little bit of grinding. Those lsd are much cheaper, at least where i am. U would need a custom driveshaft and e90 m3 axles. I sourced mine from ebay USA, not too expensive.
@J B the insides are the same, the input and output flanges are the same, but the case is different. M5,M6 is a bit longer, so you need to trim it a bit. Otherwise is bolt on.
Haha i smashed out a drive shaft cv a few weeks ago. At least it’s an easy fix..... assuming they aren’t seized in the hub.
yeah, man i still have nightmares over daves 540i.
Great work you should be alright with that drive shaft. Try to buy a m3 e90-e93 parts car for the rear sub frame. Also why does it look like you have been on the road side for a night lol
Wouldn't you want to swap the other side too so they are balanced ? as they are different sizes
Well the left and right sides are actually different lengths anyway as the diff isn't actually centred in the middle of the car. Although they are physically different thickness's it wont actually have an impact on anything balance related.
Maybe the rear suspension needs a bit of an upgrade to stop the wheels hoping under load. Also are you guys gonna help mcm with the e30😂
Yeah, im sure it does. MCM no doubt will have it all covered. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.
@J B ngl i feel like ive seen a red top barra engine in the background before, maybe they'll use that🤷🏽♂️
I have an e90 m3 diff in my garage and their super cheap here! Can’t use it in my e60
Ohhh wow, yeah they are like $5k here. Its a killer
This is why you need to be on 18” wheels(tyre flex 💪)and poly bush the diff Why You Not Listen . Do you know what’s coming next ? Pretty sure I do . Keep on keeping on. Content fabulous.
Man that parts car sure does come in handy!
Yeah, i knew we were going to break things eventually. didnt expect it just yet tho.
Would it be worth swapping the other side over as well? technically the smaller diameter would be stronger even if they were hollow no?
I would recommend the 034 Motorsports aluminum subframe inserts because they're inexpensive, easy to install and make a HUGE difference! However, I did notice that they put more stress on my diff bushings which I'm kicking myself for not changing when I did my m factory diff 😭 I still think they'd be worth a shot though since you're getting the diff brace!
Yeah, i think i will need to just replace all the rear end bushes eventually. Like i mentioned, just trying to keep the spending a little more reserved..... this car has cost too much money this year.
Dad to the rescue o7
Cheapest roadside assistance in the world.
Stellar job as usual.
My only concern is potentially slight un-even load on the diff under wheel spin with slightly different axels. Might be worth doing both axels even if only temporary, unless you plan on baby-ing it?
Yeah no launches on stock axles for a while. At least until we have the upgraded parts ready to go.
The real question is, will a large case diff fit in a small case diffs place? Or does driveshaft need to be altered
Yes it will. The tail shaft lengths are slightly different but they can actually also be fitted in place.
same mounting points, but the large housing has a shorter drive shaft. if he wants to do a large housing swap he can get a 2007 335 auto driveshaft and itll work fine.
The diff fits in place but the driveshaft is much too short. It’s 17mm too short.
@@jakegoldberg8941 could you use a manual driveshaft with the big house diff or would that be a different driveshaft again?
@@davidrowe2217 b
I'm guessing new stickier rubber would and wouldn't help your efforts either. Always a weak link along the line ready to grenade 😔 Cheers.
What are the boost and torque values set to in 2nd gear? Do you think second gear launches could be harsher on the components?
Boost was 23psi. I haven't set torque in xHP. I really shouldn't have snapped an axle at this power levels on the street with the auto.
Have you coded out the e-diff?
Yes, being a clutched diff it really locks quite aggressively, i thought it was the ediff making it feel strange, but it was just the diff.
You will find some info on a web site, realoem
Small is 168 or 188? Large is 188 or 210?
Would you sell your e90 diff to me? Im looking for the lsd as mine is a manual and the diff is welded. Need a diff to replace
Can you imagine if you had better tires. You will always find the weak link. Best of luck on your pursuit of speed.
Might also cover the caliber in case the hammer slips. LoL
Quick question kinda random but regarding the eBay turbos did you get them rebalanced at all?
Nah, i left them as is, wanted to see what they were like as supplied.
batter change both sane size
Whys that? You know left and right are different sizes?
Sick fade 👍
Sick profile pic!
Dunno why your so good at that movement either 😂😂
Put a VRSF exhaust street or race on your 335i 😁
"ladies but mainly gentlemen" I tested this by trying to get my wife to watch....let's just say you are correct!
I believe you!
M diff swap can be a good bit cheaper than $5k, no need for the full rear (but man, covid tax is a hell of a thing, the full rear has already been creeping up by the thousand every year or two 🥴. I remember when they could be under $2k landed)
I've seen recent posts about the mfactory axles breaking, with massive corrosion on the chinesium that absolutely puts your turbo hotsides to shame, really dark, thick, pitted rust.
There's a pair of M3 axles local for $400 on m3post, M5 driveshaft is about $300au landed on eBay, plus whatever it costs to get them spliced together, I guess a few hundred
And not too long ago I saw an M5 (3.62) diff on eBay for $850ish landed, which would just need an m3 cover to fit, but it seems to be sold now. I've bought one each of 3.15 and 3.85 M3 diffs locally for $500 + some cheap enough fixes over the past 6-9 months. Man I really should have bought that M5 one just because... Covid hasn't done M3/5 diff prices any favours it seems, but if you keep an eye out it's very much possible you'd be able to get it all done for under $2000. Still a bit but I'd trust the M3 axles more than mfactory ones, plus the driveshaft cv is upgraded too then
I have emailed mfactory addressing similar concerns and its pretty fair to say the M3 axles are stronger. At the end of the day the mfactory axles are still pretty expensive. My current LSD would be a great option for a lower power track car, so i am sure i should get a reasonable price for that and i am keeping that in mind. It just comes down to what's available. I am searching marketplace, ebay on the daily for a complete M3 rear end. But like i mentioned the last one i saw was about 6 months ago and the dude wanted big money so im not holding my breath. Im not huge power for a N54 and not manual, so really surprised i managed to pop that axle on the street.
Thanks for all ther info i hadn't looked in to the M5 diff either, so thats something else i will start looking at.
@@ZeroTo60Tube I'll shout if I spot any for a reasonable price
Complete rear ends are absurd - I've put mine together piecemeal, and it's cost me something like $3500, albeit with upgraded bushes and mounts etc.
New haircut, New axle!
Hey Andrew, this makes them better (particularly under hard braking) without being harsh.
www.sparesbox.com.au/part/whiteline-kdt918-subframe-mount-bushing-kdt918
It also helps under hard acceleration with the back end moving about
Definitely take those boots off and put new grease in those joints!!!
I know i know..... temporary fix for now.
I wasnt prepared for that new sexy man and his haircut
why thank you.
@J B you love it
You should look into putting a Ford 8.8 rear end in there. I think they sell kits at seemslegitgarage.com
You weild that sledge like a Sheila.....jk... keep up the good work
Bump in the rear driver tread at 16:17?
m.ruclips.net/video/vBwC1tR0BX4/видео.html
I sent you a dm on Instagram about your diff, please check it out
Contact straightsoxautoparts they are on Instagram and eBay they have everything. One thing is they are us but with the deals they have it might make sense after potential shipping cost
will check them out, thanks dude.
135I I had the small diff and the big diff bolted straight in, Big diff is a Mfactory torsen , testing ruclips.net/video/d7zYbtE31T4/видео.html
🥳🥳🔊🔊👍👍