If you want to go crazy you can use fiber optics across the miniature so you can use one led in the base and have multiple pin lights across the model. Like say you wanted to do a starship
While this *is* an interesting video, that is NOT how the coil works... the inductive transfer of energy is dependent on the size of the wire, the number of "turns" or loops, the resonance frequency, and the distance... You would need a whole bunch of 9 volt batteries and several more feet of wire to power up an area as large as your pad... furthermore, if your LED coil gets too close to the edge of the transmitting coil, that LED is going to burn out and yet barely be on in the center... The red wire is the POSITIVE and the black wire is GROUND or negative in standard low voltage wiring (up to twelve volts, unless you are using European sensors)... and you can only warp that type of tuned coil so much before it creates "dead zones" in the magnetic field generated by the coil that transfers power... I built something similar last year... It was a mimic and some moveable treasures... I used a magnetic hall effect sensor on a platform inside and placed the magnet in one 3D print which would turn it on, then I placed wireless LEDs in several other 3D prints that could be placed in different locations around the treasure chest that contained the coil... The orientation of the LED will also change the brightness as it is moved into and around the field. The distance that it works in only an inch or so outside the coil and maybe up to three inches inside the coil. These can all be overcome with a bit of math and perseverance and ingenuity. There are also some interesting possibilities for using capacitive touch sensors as well.
Put one of the wireless leds on the tip of a wizards staff and tell the player to find the ancient item that happens to be invisible and is lost somewhere in the ruins of an old castle or wherever. They have to find the centre of the coil to find the item. 😅
Very helpful. Thanks for the link to the parts too. Once you have your negative part created in Bambu slicer, you can copy and paste a new one to position the duplicate anywhere you want.
Great video! I can definitely see this adding great stress or anticipation to a D&D session as the light starts to get brighter every round as it gets closer. Or a puzzle where the different parts light up when placed in the right spots. It could be really good for theater props, like a necklace that starts glowing when it's put on, etc.
Demonstrating why I gave up on digital calipers...batteries and sometimes they just die. Verniers are fine, but I'm now dual-scale SAE/metric dial caliper all the way. Always ready.
Get a Mitutoyo. Mine has been going strong on the same battery for three years. Don't remember who but someone showed that high digital calipers use significantly less power on standby than the cheap ones
@@gwenhidwy It's the battery, the expensive ones have silver version eg. SR44 instead of LR44, and the silver oxide battery has longer lifespan (google it). You can put a SR44 in your cheap calipers and it will last forever.
You can also flip the battery over when you won't be using them for awhile. It's the standby trickle that kills batteries. If you get chalky buildup on the contacts, hit it with a little vinegar on a q-tip to clean it up.
You know why that's beautiful? Because, beauty is in the EYE OF THE BEHOLDER😁😂 *BA DUM TSSSSSSS* Anyway yea as far as D&D goes I could see putting coils throughout your hexes / squares so when you place the minis down they light up
Is the red wire on that battery clip really hooked up to the ground side!? That's very backwards if so, and going to ruin someone's electronics when they assume red is hot, like normal!
You need to change the link to the toggle switches it is a duplicate of the first link. Thank you. This was awesome. I will also be looking at adding this to my d&d/heroquest prints
Death is in the eye of the Beholder... oops, no, it's just an LED. Beauty is in that model of the Beholder though, is it available somewhere? Would probably be way more trouble than it's worth, if it would even work at all, but could be interesting to run optic fibres from inside the main eye to the other eyes and get a lesser glow from them. Alternately, could scale up the model a little, use a bigger LED in the main eye and smaller ones for the others.
🤣The model is from Loot Studios. 😀I do have another tutorial on adding wired LEDs. (I just added it to the description in case you are interested.)Both video are part of a series on adding LEDs to 3D Prints. We're thinking the same. The next video will have LEDs in all the eyes, well at least that is the plan. 😁
I wanted to use these with the Infinity Stones. I wanted to print the stones in resin and have a hole cut out in the middle for LEDs and the models cut in half to insert the LEDS. But I could not find good Infinity Stone models to do this with. When I tried to separate the models for the stones models would get corrupted.
I am convinced I will rule the world come the solar storm apocalypse. Because I refuse digital calipers out of principles. The traditional aren't hard, and they live forever.
For a taller print that would have the LED further from the base, and therefore further away from the coil, would it be possible to have the receiver part of the LED in the base of the print (close to the coil), and then place the LED higher up in the print and run wires back to the receiver part?
You mentioned a few things that will impact the efficiency of the energy transfer, but left out others that could be important when deciding if it's even suitable at all for a 3D printed project! The power efficiency of a wireless LED system will *always* be poor compared to the wired equivalent. Most of the energy is radiated uselessly into surroundings where there are no LEDs, but unfortunately not uniformly. This is why all wireless charging systems for phones, etc. require very close spacing and alignment between the coils to be practical. The only reason the concept works at all for wireless LEDs is because a modern LED can look bright with extremely small amounts of power (by comparison to a phone charger). LEDs that must be positioned well above or below the plane of the transmitter coil will have the most trouble lighting up - even more than ones well outside the coil like you demonstrated. That could make it an ironically terrible choice for certain 3D designs featuring lights - something people ought to know *before* spending money and time designing a print around wireless system parts. The best reasons to use them would be: there must be many isolated LEDs embedded in the print (and fiber optics are also impractical), or they need to be embedded in movable pieces, or separated by water or clear zones where visible wires would ruin the effect. There are good reasons why this tech is not widely used commercially (and never will be).
The mic on the cap irritates me. Please use it as intended in your Shirt. Also inserting the Led really within the Print with Just a layer in between hides the Led more, eben If gets even Dimmer with this. And you might want to Show the sliced Up File a bit more so we could've seen the new cavities
There is also a way you can pause the print to insert the LED into the cavity before it closes it off that can work pretty well, although it *does* mean that if anything happens to the LED it is *very* difficult to replace.
Mic on cap is an excellent choice… distance and orientation does not change… easy to install… Actually same pluses as a head-mounted mic. And hat/helmet mounting has been going on for decades.
@@canadiangemstones7636 Lol I work in automotive engineering and deal with this kind of stuff. You are a moron, you thought I am one of those dumb fucks who think 5G causes Covid xD
Have you found any type or brand of the wireless LEDs that have a better range than average? I have a project that I would like to place the LEDs about 200mm above the coil but that is about 4x the range of the type I've used before.
@@unclerichard6729 Most of them have pretty low ranges. 50 mm or so. I haven’t tried any that have a further range, but would be interested in testing some. 😀 If you find some you like, let me know!
If you want to go crazy you can use fiber optics across the miniature so you can use one led in the base and have multiple pin lights across the model. Like say you wanted to do a starship
While this *is* an interesting video, that is NOT how the coil works... the inductive transfer of energy is dependent on the size of the wire, the number of "turns" or loops, the resonance frequency, and the distance... You would need a whole bunch of 9 volt batteries and several more feet of wire to power up an area as large as your pad... furthermore, if your LED coil gets too close to the edge of the transmitting coil, that LED is going to burn out and yet barely be on in the center... The red wire is the POSITIVE and the black wire is GROUND or negative in standard low voltage wiring (up to twelve volts, unless you are using European sensors)... and you can only warp that type of tuned coil so much before it creates "dead zones" in the magnetic field generated by the coil that transfers power... I built something similar last year... It was a mimic and some moveable treasures... I used a magnetic hall effect sensor on a platform inside and placed the magnet in one 3D print which would turn it on, then I placed wireless LEDs in several other 3D prints that could be placed in different locations around the treasure chest that contained the coil... The orientation of the LED will also change the brightness as it is moved into and around the field. The distance that it works in only an inch or so outside the coil and maybe up to three inches inside the coil. These can all be overcome with a bit of math and perseverance and ingenuity. There are also some interesting possibilities for using capacitive touch sensors as well.
this is amazing, nice job!
Thank you! I appreciate it. 😁 Thank you for creating such great models! 🧌🧙♂️🐉
Would have been better if you dimmed the lights so we could see the LED effects better.
Put one of the wireless leds on the tip of a wizards staff and tell the player to find the ancient item that happens to be invisible and is lost somewhere in the ruins of an old castle or wherever. They have to find the centre of the coil to find the item. 😅
What a amazing idea !!!!!!
That's sooo smart !
Very helpful. Thanks for the link to the parts too. Once you have your negative part created in Bambu slicer, you can copy and paste a new one to position the duplicate anywhere you want.
Great video! I can definitely see this adding great stress or anticipation to a D&D session as the light starts to get brighter every round as it gets closer. Or a puzzle where the different parts light up when placed in the right spots. It could be really good for theater props, like a necklace that starts glowing when it's put on, etc.
Thank you! Those are some great ideas! 😀
Stealth check failed. *beholder's eyes light up
🤣
Demonstrating why I gave up on digital calipers...batteries and sometimes they just die. Verniers are fine, but I'm now dual-scale SAE/metric dial caliper all the way. Always ready.
Get a Mitutoyo. Mine has been going strong on the same battery for three years. Don't remember who but someone showed that high digital calipers use significantly less power on standby than the cheap ones
@@gwenhidwy It's the battery, the expensive ones have silver version eg. SR44 instead of LR44, and the silver oxide battery has longer lifespan (google it). You can put a SR44 in your cheap calipers and it will last forever.
You can also flip the battery over when you won't be using them for awhile. It's the standby trickle that kills batteries. If you get chalky buildup on the contacts, hit it with a little vinegar on a q-tip to clean it up.
You know why that's beautiful? Because, beauty is in the EYE OF THE BEHOLDER😁😂 *BA DUM TSSSSSSS*
Anyway yea as far as D&D goes I could see putting coils throughout your hexes / squares so when you place the minis down they light up
🤣 There are so many possibilities! 😁
awesome. I never knew this was possible
fantastic idea!
Is the red wire on that battery clip really hooked up to the ground side!? That's very backwards if so, and going to ruin someone's electronics when they assume red is hot, like normal!
You need to change the link to the toggle switches it is a duplicate of the first link. Thank you. This was awesome. I will also be looking at adding this to my d&d/heroquest prints
Thank you! 😊 Just updated it!
So quick thanks a bunch!@MakerBuildIt
😀 Thank you!
Death is in the eye of the Beholder... oops, no, it's just an LED.
Beauty is in that model of the Beholder though, is it available somewhere?
Would probably be way more trouble than it's worth, if it would even work at all, but could be interesting to run optic fibres from inside the main eye to the other eyes and get a lesser glow from them. Alternately, could scale up the model a little, use a bigger LED in the main eye and smaller ones for the others.
🤣The model is from Loot Studios. 😀I do have another tutorial on adding wired LEDs. (I just added it to the description in case you are interested.)Both video are part of a series on adding LEDs to 3D Prints. We're thinking the same. The next video will have LEDs in all the eyes, well at least that is the plan. 😁
would have been nice to see how you buried the coil and switch into the print.
Hi! It's part of a series. Stay tuned. 😁
God I miss Radio Shack 😢
Me too! 😥 I was just thinking that the other day.....
I wanted to use these with the Infinity Stones. I wanted to print the stones in resin and have a hole cut out in the middle for LEDs and the models cut in half to insert the LEDS. But I could not find good Infinity Stone models to do this with. When I tried to separate the models for the stones models would get corrupted.
It was pretty hard to see the leds with bright studio lighting. I would've gone with rim lighting and a darker fill.
I am convinced I will rule the world come the solar storm apocalypse. Because I refuse digital calipers out of principles. The traditional aren't hard, and they live forever.
@@rudde7251 This would be true! 🤣
For a taller print that would have the LED further from the base, and therefore further away from the coil, would it be possible to have the receiver part of the LED in the base of the print (close to the coil), and then place the LED higher up in the print and run wires back to the receiver part?
No, the coil of the receiver is would around the LED itself. You would have to build up your own receiver with extra wires to run up to your LED
@ I was thinking just the opposite. Remove the LED from the assembly and mount it remotely. No need to make a new receiver.
@@MrDksmall That could work using some fine wire... might be a royal pain to solder though...
You mentioned a few things that will impact the efficiency of the energy transfer, but left out others that could be important when deciding if it's even suitable at all for a 3D printed project! The power efficiency of a wireless LED system will *always* be poor compared to the wired equivalent. Most of the energy is radiated uselessly into surroundings where there are no LEDs, but unfortunately not uniformly. This is why all wireless charging systems for phones, etc. require very close spacing and alignment between the coils to be practical. The only reason the concept works at all for wireless LEDs is because a modern LED can look bright with extremely small amounts of power (by comparison to a phone charger).
LEDs that must be positioned well above or below the plane of the transmitter coil will have the most trouble lighting up - even more than ones well outside the coil like you demonstrated. That could make it an ironically terrible choice for certain 3D designs featuring lights - something people ought to know *before* spending money and time designing a print around wireless system parts.
The best reasons to use them would be: there must be many isolated LEDs embedded in the print (and fiber optics are also impractical), or they need to be embedded in movable pieces, or separated by water or clear zones where visible wires would ruin the effect. There are good reasons why this tech is not widely used commercially (and never will be).
Before watching or reading. I'm guessing they use magnetic fields.
I used to use wyerless LED's!
>wireless
>has wires
The mic on the cap irritates me. Please use it as intended in your Shirt.
Also inserting the Led really within the Print with Just a layer in between hides the Led more, eben If gets even Dimmer with this. And you might want to Show the sliced Up File a bit more so we could've seen the new cavities
There is also a way you can pause the print to insert the LED into the cavity before it closes it off that can work pretty well, although it *does* mean that if anything happens to the LED it is *very* difficult to replace.
Mic on cap is an excellent choice… distance and orientation does not change… easy to install…
Actually same pluses as a head-mounted mic.
And hat/helmet mounting has been going on for decades.
Well, technically, if the LED has to be connected to a coil of _wire_, it's not wire-less, is it! 🙂
More EM emsissions GREAT yeeah
You’ll survive, buttercup, just make sure your tinfoil hat is shiny-side-out!
@@canadiangemstones7636 Lol I work in automotive engineering and deal with this kind of stuff. You are a moron, you thought I am one of those dumb fucks who think 5G causes Covid xD
Have you found any type or brand of the wireless LEDs that have a better range than average? I have a project that I would like to place the LEDs about 200mm above the coil but that is about 4x the range of the type I've used before.
@@unclerichard6729 Most of them have pretty low ranges. 50 mm or so. I haven’t tried any that have a further range, but would be interested in testing some. 😀 If you find some you like, let me know!
Hmmm that’s a lot of wires for “wireless” LEDs.
Good point lol.
Please stop with the "eyes closed so we can see that you do your lashes" pose. It's gross.
Good info about wireless LEDs, though.