I just printed a hoopin cable clip from Thingiverse by Haku3D in TPU with my Ender 3 V3 KE. I used Creality Print and the included TPU profile. I used 2mm retraction (7mm did not work and did not finish the print. The filament stopped flowing the last part and I attempted it 2 times and it failed 2 times.) and 40mm/s retraction speed. I printed it at 100mm/s with a layer height of 0.2mm, an Initial layer speed of 30mm/s and a flow rate of 115%. I had no problems and finished 2 prints, 1 at 60mm/s and 1 at 100mm/s. Both look good.
I print a lot of flexible and all I do to tune out the stringing is run a standard retraction tower for both distance and speed. 0 stringing with TPU/TPE from 95a to 90A to Ninaflex. Benchy's with no stringing. Printing with combos Orbiter/REVO, MS Direct Drive/MS all metal hotend, LGXLite/Phaetus Dragonfly, Bondtech with MS all metal hotend, and BTT BQH2 . Works with all of them - no stringing after two simple tests. Just keep it simple.....
Just tried this on my ender 3 thats got the newer silent board, direct drive and cr touch. I was having lots of issues before with vase mode and non sticking of layers etc. Used your profile and still a few minor issues, so dropped the speed a little and thickness to 0.2mm and it works great! Thanks :)
I'm embarrassed that I watched a half dozen videos before this one. Thank you for saying the opposite of turn off your retraction and explaining why. Thank you for pointing out the temperature difference between the spool and the website. All my tpu prints at 195-205 and I truly thought something was wrong that made no sense. I follow a couple other people I thought that knew what they were talking about and they all said to just deal with the stringing.
Grabbed this and I'm tuning it on my Artillery Sidewinder right now. The "Outer wall inset" that was set on the profile was causing issues for me so I removed that setting. I tend to print smaller objects in TPU so it may be fine on larger things. So far the print is looking great. I'm so excited to not have to deal with all the strings anymore. Thank you!
@FilamentFriday Chep, I for sure would be interested in building the same filament tester you built. Thank you for sharing your work with the rest of us. Great content!
Just did my very first TPU print (of course of the octopus... seems perfectly fitting!) on my new Ender 3 V3 SE, only after reassuring my good ole' reliable pal V2 that he's still the PLA champ in my books 🤣 The direct drive and auto leveling on the V3 SE made it much easier to try TPU and it came out nearly perfect with this Cura profile. I'm still not sure how they were able to put these parts together and still make a profit but I'm very happy with it. Anyway cheers for guiding us all through this fun hobby and sharing your knowledge with us! 🍻
That's a great way to estimate retraction. I wish I'd thought of it. I just happen to have a spare Creality v1.1.3 board so that's a forthcoming project for me.
Wow, Chuck, that's quite the experiment! I vaguely remember someone, whether it was you, or Stefan, or Daniel from Modbot, or someone else, suggesting that the conventional wisdom of very small retraction values for TPU was wrong but I don't remember the results being demonstrated as explicitly as you have here (and I definitely don't remember seeing such blazing retracting speeds). I'm going to have to think about the TPU profiles I have for my printers, and how they might need to be tweaked.
@@FilamentFriday That is indeed the plan for my Ender 3, but my Sovol SV06 Plus works better with profiles I found for SuperSlicer and if I ever get the Sidewinder X1 working again I'll have to do some work there as well.
Thanks! Copied the retraction settings into OrcaSlicer for my Ender 3 S1 and it works perfectly! Been struggling printing tpu and never thought to up the retraction that high on direct drive. I previously had it at 0.5 and it was a mess.
Pretty cool! If you manually disabled the temp requirement to advance the extruder, you could do the same test on your actual printer with a cold hot end. That way you could truly test for any setup, although measuring would be a little harder and on a bowden tube you'd have very long test pieces.
Wow interesting. I have just started in TPU after many years of PLA. having under extrusion issues but as I am adding a direct drive i might give this a crack!
If you find yourself needing long retractions with TPU, it probably means your linear advance isn't calibrated right or the TPU is really wet and the long retraction is helping cover for that. Long retractions are pretty much functionally equivalent to a higher LA K value at a fixed speed, but don't capture the right pressure profile during accel/decel ramps or any speed but the one you tuned retraction for.
This printer doesn’t have linear advance and neither did the older versions that I had the high retraction on and I’ve dried the TPU and found it didn’t change. It was all compression in the long bowden tube that required high retraction just to move the filament and relieve the pressure. What you describe is more about settings for non flexible PLA.
hello, is it possible to have profiles for PETG and PLA in the new version of Cura because your old profiles do not transfer to the new version. THANKS Or maybe I don't know how to do it... Thank you for your work, I'm a fan...
Boy do I wish you had one for PETG. I can print most thing but supports and stringing are really hard for me to get dialed in. I can't seem to get those right no matter i change
How did you get stringing on that model where each layer has a single connected component? Did you turn off combing so it does linear travel rather than staying inside the model? I noticed because this model is kinda infamous as the classic "wow I can print TPU!" gotcha because it doesn't need any retractions despite looking nontrivial.
Know you usually only make request videos for patreons but I would love it if you made a profile specifically for the ender 3 with the microswiss hotend. You've said in the past that it would only require changing the extrusion length, but no matter what I try your profile doesn't work well. Little surprised you haven't made a microswiss profile by now. (one of the biggest upgrades people add to their enders)
@@markburton5292I've done that, after doing a few successful cold pulls, Yer comment isn't helpful at all. And cheps entire channel is built around tutorials and profiles for the ender 3 (my request is right in the ballpark of what he does, he makes a video gets views, everyone's happy)
@@Schwift3D you can take it that way but it was a simple statement that you don't need to wait for him to do it. You can do exactly the same thing he did on your printer. rather than do a cold pull just buy a new nozzle that hasn't been used and make the measurements. he showed you exactly what you need to do. in this video
and the reason I say use a new nozzle is no matter how many cold pulls you do there will always be some residue that will throw your measurements off but that won't happen with a new nozzle as there isn't anything in it and they aren't expensive.
Well that tells you the compression of TPU if your nozzle is clogged. But in reality, the material is flowing, which means there isn't as much pressure on it and therefore not as much compression. Also, there's no retractions in vase mode. 😉
@twinturbobostang - The nozzle is much smaller than the filament so there is almost the same pressure. The base mode example was to show the profile didn’t need to change for spiral mode. It handled the speed as well.
Well I´ll be damned. Finally some closure to if this printer can do TPU. Creality says okay, but Nathan builds robots said that the ptfe tube would hinder the printer from doing TPU. So thank you so much for this video, it helped me finally choose my printer :)
What about bridging? I like the approach on stringing, and good to demystify the don't use retraction guideline that others give. However, I would love to see how you would address bridging problems with TPU, too. Bridging has been a major drawback for me when printing TPU, and the difficulty in smoothing TPU after print makes it even worse. Any tip on that?
Though 7mm seems awfully long, TPU is very different filament than ridig PLA + result is very good 🙃 Method itself is interesting and innovative. I wonder what result it would give for bowden tube, or how much reverse bowden (between spool and extruder) would stretch TPU 🤔
Excellent profile, thanks! I did load your other profiles for the SE, and I'm still getting heavy stringing. I've messed with retraction speeds from 20-65mm/s and retraction distances from 4-6.5mm and no combination works. What's a good setting to stop PLA+ from stringing on this machine?
I was wondering if printing with klipper is faster than the extra fast 0.28 profile and if it’s possible to combine the two and print even faster? Maybe that can be a future video.
Klipper can increase acceleration using input shaping and equalise flow in speed changes using pressure advance. Marlin has also both. Klipper won't make filament melt or flow faster 😉
Buggar!! I didn't realise you had a tpu profile for the neo. I've held off printing tpu on my v2 neo thinking I need direct drive but I really want one of these v3's at the price anyway. I might try your v2 neo profile first if I can find it somewhere.
Quick question, I have both an Ender 3 Pro with a bowden tube, and a Sovol v6, the Ender will not print with A92 TPU at all, and I have snarls in the Sovol extruder, what is that you're using, A95 or A92?
@@FilamentFriday thank you I'm very new to this hobby if I use the ender 3 profile will the Auto bed level still work sorry very new at this I heavily leaned on you videos for learning my ender 3 pro couldn't have done it without ya
@@jonathanmayfield9218As far as I understand bed leveling is handled by the machine firmware, Cura requires the addition of the G29 command to the start gcode to tell the machine to auto level before commencing print.
How in the world are you printing at 60mms? I print really simple shapes like shoe insoles and have to print at half those speeds. I do print on a 1mm nozzle at .6 layer height though
Assuming you print at 30mm/s, that would mean you are pushing filament at almost 16mm³/s. That is a lot for most hotends, especially with a difficult to print material like TPU. And yes, I am surprised too. Some years ago, the consensus for TPU was something like 15mm/s or so, lol (0.4 nozzle, 0.2 layer)
@@FilamentFriday sorted, printing descent now with NinjaFlex. The retraction length was way too high and made my extruder squeal like a pig. Temp and flow had to be adjusted aswell:)
I just printed a hoopin cable clip from Thingiverse by Haku3D in TPU with my Ender 3 V3 KE. I used Creality Print and the included TPU profile. I used 2mm retraction (7mm did not work and did not finish the print. The filament stopped flowing the last part and I attempted it 2 times and it failed 2 times.) and 40mm/s retraction speed. I printed it at 100mm/s with a layer height of 0.2mm, an Initial layer speed of 30mm/s and a flow rate of 115%. I had no problems and finished 2 prints, 1 at 60mm/s and 1 at 100mm/s. Both look good.
I'm gonna try this one a print very soon. If I manage to actually print TPU thanks to your profile, I'll be indebted to you!!!!
@@ewokgaming832 You are welcome. Nozzle temp @ 230, bed temp @ 50. I hope you get it right.😎
Thanks for this video. I used your TPU profile in Cura 5.9.0 for my Ender 3 S1 and it worked perfectly. Much appreciated!
I print a lot of flexible and all I do to tune out the stringing is run a standard retraction tower for both distance and speed. 0 stringing with TPU/TPE from 95a to 90A to Ninaflex. Benchy's with no stringing. Printing with combos Orbiter/REVO, MS Direct Drive/MS all metal hotend, LGXLite/Phaetus Dragonfly, Bondtech with MS all metal hotend, and BTT BQH2 . Works with all of them - no stringing after two simple tests. Just keep it simple.....
Just tried this on my ender 3 thats got the newer silent board, direct drive and cr touch. I was having lots of issues before with vase mode and non sticking of layers etc. Used your profile and still a few minor issues, so dropped the speed a little and thickness to 0.2mm and it works great! Thanks :)
Hey! Excellent calibration strategy! Thank you for sharing it!
Interesting way to calibrate! Well done.
I'm embarrassed that I watched a half dozen videos before this one. Thank you for saying the opposite of turn off your retraction and explaining why. Thank you for pointing out the temperature difference between the spool and the website. All my tpu prints at 195-205 and I truly thought something was wrong that made no sense. I follow a couple other people I thought that knew what they were talking about and they all said to just deal with the stringing.
Grabbed this and I'm tuning it on my Artillery Sidewinder right now. The "Outer wall inset" that was set on the profile was causing issues for me so I removed that setting. I tend to print smaller objects in TPU so it may be fine on larger things. So far the print is looking great. I'm so excited to not have to deal with all the strings anymore. Thank you!
Thank You CHUCK. I’m currently not printing in TPU but I know it’s coming soon. And this setting will help TY
Awesome, I just came up with something I need printed in TPU, I'm glad you made this video recently!
@FilamentFriday Chep,
I for sure would be interested in building the same filament tester you built.
Thank you for sharing your work with the rest of us.
Great content!
Just did my very first TPU print (of course of the octopus... seems perfectly fitting!) on my new Ender 3 V3 SE, only after reassuring my good ole' reliable pal V2 that he's still the PLA champ in my books 🤣
The direct drive and auto leveling on the V3 SE made it much easier to try TPU and it came out nearly perfect with this Cura profile. I'm still not sure how they were able to put these parts together and still make a profit but I'm very happy with it.
Anyway cheers for guiding us all through this fun hobby and sharing your knowledge with us! 🍻
What temp for the filament did you use and bed temp?
That's a great way to estimate retraction. I wish I'd thought of it. I just happen to have a spare Creality v1.1.3 board so that's a forthcoming project for me.
I like the methodology. Great results!!
Wow, Chuck, that's quite the experiment! I vaguely remember someone, whether it was you, or Stefan, or Daniel from Modbot, or someone else, suggesting that the conventional wisdom of very small retraction values for TPU was wrong but I don't remember the results being demonstrated as explicitly as you have here (and I definitely don't remember seeing such blazing retracting speeds). I'm going to have to think about the TPU profiles I have for my printers, and how they might need to be tweaked.
Or just download mine and try it ;)
@@FilamentFriday That is indeed the plan for my Ender 3, but my Sovol SV06 Plus works better with profiles I found for SuperSlicer and if I ever get the Sidewinder X1 working again I'll have to do some work there as well.
Thanks, I've got my first TPU arriving tomorrow and I'm happy to try this profile.
Thanks! Copied the retraction settings into OrcaSlicer for my Ender 3 S1 and it works perfectly! Been struggling printing tpu and never thought to up the retraction that high on direct drive. I previously had it at 0.5 and it was a mess.
you can just remove the hotend and do the same tests (but a nozzle printing is not a screw blocking the PTFE)
How is this smiling unassuming genius so smart!
Pretty cool! If you manually disabled the temp requirement to advance the extruder, you could do the same test on your actual printer with a cold hot end. That way you could truly test for any setup, although measuring would be a little harder and on a bowden tube you'd have very long test pieces.
Sweet! Really interesting indeed! 😃
Thanks, Chuck!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
7mm of retraction? that seems so high, everywhere i look its suggested 1-2mm, but your print came out great
Wow interesting. I have just started in TPU after many years of PLA. having under extrusion issues but as I am adding a direct drive i might give this a crack!
Your profiles are GOATED, thx
They really helped me to get my prints right
Keep up the good work, take care
If you find yourself needing long retractions with TPU, it probably means your linear advance isn't calibrated right or the TPU is really wet and the long retraction is helping cover for that. Long retractions are pretty much functionally equivalent to a higher LA K value at a fixed speed, but don't capture the right pressure profile during accel/decel ramps or any speed but the one you tuned retraction for.
This printer doesn’t have linear advance and neither did the older versions that I had the high retraction on and I’ve dried the TPU and found it didn’t change. It was all compression in the long bowden tube that required high retraction just to move the filament and relieve the pressure.
What you describe is more about settings for non flexible PLA.
@@FilamentFriday Wow... Creality is ~still~ shipping printers without linear advance?? I assumed they'd finally upgraded.. but no.. 🤦
@@daliasprints9798 Creality firmware is extremely basic and no version of it has any of the optional features you'd find in third-party versions.
@@daliasprints9798 Get Real!
hello, is it possible to have profiles for PETG and PLA in the new version of Cura because your old profiles do not transfer to the new version.
THANKS
Or maybe I don't know how to do it...
Thank you for your work, I'm a fan...
Amazing. Thanks.
just what I needed. v1 S1 non pro.. it's still good enough
Boy do I wish you had one for PETG. I can print most thing but supports and stringing are really hard for me to get dialed in. I can't seem to get those right no matter i change
Links in description. ruclips.net/video/6TKmPzT4KtE/видео.htmlsi=wVz7408QpNOlJT9c
Thanks CHEP. 👍🏻
Cool. Has Ultimaker added the SE to there list of printers yet?
And for bimetal hotends?
Yeah you should sell it as the tpu tester.
I'd be interested in a TPU tester for sure!
How did you get stringing on that model where each layer has a single connected component? Did you turn off combing so it does linear travel rather than staying inside the model? I noticed because this model is kinda infamous as the classic "wow I can print TPU!" gotcha because it doesn't need any retractions despite looking nontrivial.
Know you usually only make request videos for patreons but I would love it if you made a profile specifically for the ender 3 with the microswiss hotend. You've said in the past that it would only require changing the extrusion length, but no matter what I try your profile doesn't work well. Little surprised you haven't made a microswiss profile by now. (one of the biggest upgrades people add to their enders)
would not be hard for you to do. just do it with a clean nozzle
I changed the retraction to 3mm and the extra fast profile works perfectly fine for me.
@@markburton5292I've done that, after doing a few successful cold pulls, Yer comment isn't helpful at all. And cheps entire channel is built around tutorials and profiles for the ender 3 (my request is right in the ballpark of what he does, he makes a video gets views, everyone's happy)
@@Schwift3D you can take it that way but it was a simple statement that you don't need to wait for him to do it. You can do exactly the same thing he did on your printer. rather than do a cold pull just buy a new nozzle that hasn't been used and make the measurements. he showed you exactly what you need to do. in this video
and the reason I say use a new nozzle is no matter how many cold pulls you do there will always be some residue that will throw your measurements off but that won't happen with a new nozzle as there isn't anything in it and they aren't expensive.
Well that tells you the compression of TPU if your nozzle is clogged. But in reality, the material is flowing, which means there isn't as much pressure on it and therefore not as much compression. Also, there's no retractions in vase mode. 😉
Yeah but while retracting the materialyou want to stop filament from oozing so it is better to have it slightly more than not much enough.
@twinturbobostang - The nozzle is much smaller than the filament so there is almost the same pressure. The base mode example was to show the profile didn’t need to change for spiral mode. It handled the speed as well.
This was great science. Thanks.
obviously its seems to work. But thats alot of retraction. On direct drive isnt the recommended retraction max 1mm?
Not for flexible TPU. 1mm is recommended for PLA.
@@FilamentFriday thanks for the info. Great vid as always 👌
The recommended maximum is assuming you have modern firmware with linear advance. Just found out from CHEP that Creality still doesn't. 🤦
I love your vids they really help thanks
Well I´ll be damned. Finally some closure to if this printer can do TPU. Creality says okay, but Nathan builds robots said that the ptfe tube would hinder the printer from doing TPU. So thank you so much for this video, it helped me finally choose my printer :)
The idea that bowden can’t print TPU is a myth maybe people still push for some reason. .
Very interesting! Thanks!
What about bridging? I like the approach on stringing, and good to demystify the don't use retraction guideline that others give. However, I would love to see how you would address bridging problems with TPU, too. Bridging has been a major drawback for me when printing TPU, and the difficulty in smoothing TPU after print makes it even worse. Any tip on that?
Though 7mm seems awfully long, TPU is very different filament than ridig PLA + result is very good 🙃
Method itself is interesting and innovative. I wonder what result it would give for bowden tube, or how much reverse bowden (between spool and extruder) would stretch TPU 🤔
Thank you very much! I'll try it out and see the results. Does anybody have a good result for Ultimaker TPU on an Ultimaker 5S?
Excellent profile, thanks! I did load your other profiles for the SE, and I'm still getting heavy stringing. I've messed with retraction speeds from 20-65mm/s and retraction distances from 4-6.5mm and no combination works. What's a good setting to stop PLA+ from stringing on this machine?
considering this is the worst brand of tpu for stringing, is there a specific brand you recommend for better results?
Do you have a print in place video on setting up having a hard time with no luck
I’ve done several in the past. Each print is unique and many times it’s a design issue not a print setup issue.
I was wondering if printing with klipper is faster than the extra fast 0.28 profile and if it’s possible to combine the two and print even faster? Maybe that can be a future video.
Klipper is faster. Not sure the tricks will work.
Klipper can increase acceleration using input shaping and equalise flow in speed changes using pressure advance.
Marlin has also both.
Klipper won't make filament melt or flow faster 😉
I have and Ender 3 Pro the I put the direct drive on, will this new profile work on it also?
Hello thanks for the video, can i use these settings for the ender 3 pro? Thanks in advance
Buggar!! I didn't realise you had a tpu profile for the neo. I've held off printing tpu on my v2 neo thinking I need direct drive but I really want one of these v3's at the price anyway. I might try your v2 neo profile first if I can find it somewhere.
Quick question, I have both an Ender 3 Pro with a bowden tube, and a Sovol v6, the Ender will not print with A92 TPU at all, and I have snarls in the Sovol extruder, what is that you're using, A95 or A92?
Well done.
What causes 3D Print wall delamination? How can you fix it?
Increase temperature typically fixes it.
Nice video again 👍🏻
Hello where tocopy or how the curaprofile file thanks
What are Settings on ender 3 neo for TPU
What I showed in the original profile before I changed it.
Did you print the TPU in an enclosure?
Hi. You don't need an enclosure for TPU. I print with CHEP's PLA profile on my Ender 3 S1. TPU prints great. 5mm retraction.
Should the bed temp be 0c?
This profile fails to import, any ideas?
Do you happen to have a cura profile for the ender 3 v3 se cura currently doesn't have one available?
I use my existing Cura profiles and an Ender 3 machine profile. Works great.
@@FilamentFriday thank you I'm very new to this hobby if I use the ender 3 profile will the Auto bed level still work sorry very new at this I heavily leaned on you videos for learning my ender 3 pro couldn't have done it without ya
@@jonathanmayfield9218As far as I understand bed leveling is handled by the machine firmware, Cura requires the addition of the G29 command to the start gcode to tell the machine to auto level before commencing print.
How in the world are you printing at 60mms?
I print really simple shapes like shoe insoles and have to print at half those speeds. I do print on a 1mm nozzle at .6 layer height though
Assuming you print at 30mm/s, that would mean you are pushing filament at almost 16mm³/s. That is a lot for most hotends, especially with a difficult to print material like TPU.
And yes, I am surprised too. Some years ago, the consensus for TPU was something like 15mm/s or so, lol (0.4 nozzle, 0.2 layer)
got new pla filament with new v3se and can't get rid of strings :(
any suggestions?
Try this: Quick Fix to Eliminate Stringing on your 3D Prints
ruclips.net/video/OG7We83M5gc/видео.html
Your profile doesnt work. Cura says "Cannot open files of type" when i tried to drop it into Cura
Do the ender profiles work on sv06?
Yes, but use the Ender 3 machine profile to slice.
Nice.
Trying to print NinjaFlex on my Ender 3 V3 KE and having horrible results. Will this profile help you think or is it just for 95A type of fillaments?
It’s tough to say. Ninjaflex can vary from spool to spool.
@@FilamentFriday sorted, printing descent now with NinjaFlex.
The retraction length was way too high and made my extruder squeal like a pig.
Temp and flow had to be adjusted aswell:)
What retraction, speed and flow did you end up using?@@Dozern90
Hey! I signed up for patreon. Just waiting for access to your webpage now. Lol
Contact me thru Patreon if it’s not working. I don’t see your ID in Patreon.
@@FilamentFriday sent you a message on there(looked to go through). Still figuring out how to use patreon lol.
@i79diecast89 - Just sent you a message back. Your all set. You have access now.