Real low buck 60 lbs-ft and 60 hp minimum from stock iron headed 350 SBC
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- Опубликовано: 30 май 2022
- In this, episode 52, DV explains how , with just some simple moves during a rebuild, it is possible to get over 60 HP & 60 lbs-ft more with as little as about $90 over what you would have otherwise spent on a basic rebuild. All these moves are at novice level and will not be much of a challenge even for a first time rebuilder. Just to be sure here what the target build is it can be said to be totally street drivable with torque right of idle. Please note:- these are far from the 'same old mods' usually talked about. Most pro's won't even know these moves.
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I used your guidance on porting a factory GM Quadrajet intake for my old second gen Camaro with a 400 SBC. It ended up making noticeably more low end torque than the ZZ4 intake I was currently using, and to top it all off it knocked 2 tenths off of my quarter mile E.T.!!
A q jet is the worst carb as it dumps raw fuel into the 2ndarys. It will not make good power as the fuel isn't atomized. It does not go through a venturi. Bloodviking
Thank you for pushing on and spreading your knowledge through hand times. Much love and appreciation for you, your family, and your work. Carry on Sr
Mr. Vizard, you Sir, are a legend. Thank you for the wealth of knowledge you've shared over the years.
Dear Mr Vizard, I am a fan of your work and have been since I started to read you articles in motoring magazines from the 70s when I was a spotty faced kid. I bought a mini in the 70s and a book came with it, written by you, all about improving the gas flow on the BMC A series engine, it had a red cover if I remember correctly. I loved that book and would sit up in bed reading it for hours. I was determined that when I was older and had a bit of money that I would use that book to pep up my own cars. Well 5 houses later the book has gone and I`m still left dreaming about cylinder head and valve work. I`m so glad that you are still using your knowledge and skill on engines and I`m glad that in came across your vid by pure chance. Keep on trucking Mr Vizard, a link to my misspent youth. Kindest regards, Paul Blackmore from Liverpool.
Paul, glad you enjoyed the book.
Great to see another video from you. Hope you had a good vacation. I asked Andy if you were ok and he said yes, you were just taking a brake. Thank you for sharing you vast knowledge with us.
David your a legend! We built our first sbc with guidance from one of your books back in 2004. Ty
Hello and good day David. Welcome back and mighty glad to see you. Love the videos. Good basic tech and insider tips that the new guys should know. Thanks a lot of doing these videos.
As always, thank you for sharing your knowledge with the world!
So sorry to hear of Marvin’s passing. May the good Lord, bless his soul.
Thanks D.V. I have put together countless #s of cylinder heads! I always used a good grease, basically the same way as you did on everything, valves & guides, retainers, shims springs ect! I probably read it in one of your books when I was a teenager! When other engine builders around our area were having problems with guides sticking & or galling issues, we were not! We even had a super stock racer come in to watch how I put heads together! [believe that?] Because he always had his guides fairly loose, because of the crazy high RPM he ran! [he normally used a light motor oil on the valve] But he even stuck them a time or two! All the things you listed, are commonsense engine building practices! Except, not too many have that anymore! You don't need to be told, but the cams with the L/C, [higher numerically number] beause people always seem to get this wrong! Have very rarely ever been faster on the track! We went through all that B.S. with nitrous engines back in the 90s, originally! They were always the quickest down the track, with the lower # L/CA! We tried 4 different cams, in the same engine, & with all different adjustments, to the camshaft & valve adjustment, that they said would be defiantly faster! But they were not! Same engine, same driver, same N2O kits, same track at the best weather time of year! Normally making 3 or 4 passes, for a average, on the different cams & the different cam timing adjustments! The one thing we found out for sure, was the camshaft companies, knew how to sell you camshafts! After all that testing, fuel, time, wear & tear, ect! We only made camshaft changes, after doing lash loops & cam timing adjustments, on the dyno, where the engine was asking for something different! Not the camshaft companies telling us what our engine needed! Thank you again D.V.
So which lobe separation angle did the motor end up liking the best ?
Where you always running the cams strait up or were you playing with advance and retard a bit too ? tks
HI DAVID GLAD YOUR BACK HOPE ALL IS WELL
Your attention to detail and exact specs is amazing! I will be using your procedures and instructions when I rebuild my Jeep 4.0L, Thanks
I’m kind of surprised that the rockers studs didn’t get pinned or modified. I’ve seen those things pull out on old Ford and Chevy heads with low spring pressure. As always a very informative video. Thanks for sharing.
Its funny ive pulled apart alot of small blocks and a few were race motors too and i have never seen a pulled stud, i have pulled studs with a 5 lb slide hammer and it was a lot of work , factory studs are not pressed in they are cast in , ive never thought screw in studs were necessary when spring pressures are within 50 lbs of stock.
I wonder if studs backing out is more a cam side phenomena as opposed to valve spring side ?
@@luckyPiston I’m not sure. I think it’s just a heat cycle thing possibly. The easiest way I’ve seen to pull them is with a little heat and and a tool that utilizes the nut that goes on the stud. You tighten the nut and the stud pulls right out. The last one I saw fail in person was on a freshly rebuilt sbc. Completely stock throttle body engine in a early to mid 90’s pickup. Ran fine on initial startup and developed a miss about the time it got up to operating temp. Pulled the drivers side valve cover and the stud was ready to fall out.
@@JohnThomas-vb9se I will def consider pinning in the future especially if using 1.6 rockers with more spring pressure as the 1.6s increase mechanical load on the stud.
@@luckyPiston ...back in the sixties,,,,,drag cars needed studs to be pinned......Now understand in 1970....chevrolet Z /28 camaro had screw in studs / pushrod guide plates............the earlier race versions of Z/28 [built outside of corporate Chevrolet] were no doubt pinned..............
@@JohnThomas-vb9se I saw an old mechanic fix a "pulled" stud - just removed a valve cover and hammered the stud back down without even removing the rocker !!
He claimed it wouldn't pull out for another 100K miles and the car would likely be junked before that.
There is another way to check those valves and seats. Blue the valve like in the video, using a wooden hammer handle on the head of the valve to hit it down into the valve seat. Do not twist the valve at all. Remove the valve, check the seat on valve and head. Wipe the valve clean or Brakleen it clean, then repeat the exercise to bring the blue on the valve seat back onto the clean valve. Will show instantly if the seat is out of round or has any low spots. Was taught to do it this way 45plus years ago and it has never failed me ever.
Hey Boss -i just have got to try this one!!!! Thanks for the tip.
DV
I built a 186 headed flatop pistoned 350 back in the mid eighties. My stepdad was a pretty good engine builder and showed me how to do some porting and did a 3 angle grind on the them. He also picked out a camshaft with a tight lobe center which was unique for the time. If I remember correctly it was 230/236 @ .050 .480 lift with 108 lc. I think the valve springs were TRW LT1 replacement and I bought a set of PAW long slot rockers. I used a 305 crankshaft and lightened the factory forged 350 pistons to match the weight of 305 pistons. TRW rod bolts handled 7,500 pulls with no problem. I ran a great set of Hooker Super Comp headers 1 3/4 with 3" collectors. It ran really well and surprised a lot of people. I ran ot in a 1967 Camaro on a diet that weighed 2950 with me in it.
The 400 dampener is for external balance so the 350 8" truck dampener is probably what David meant to recommend that should be used on an internal balanced 350.
Yeah i think a few of us were thinking that too, it doesn't hurt to clarify as that's what DV is all about anyway. cheers.
Listen again.
DV said use the 400 damper and machine out the weight for internal balance cranks.
@@hotrodray6802
Not many people have a lathe to machine the outer ring totally round. Besides, by the time you do that it will now be a light weight dampener. The reason he said to use that one is because it was a larger diameter and it is heavier. Also the newest factory sbc 400 dampener is from 1976 that more than likely the rubber ring would be dry rotted.
A late 1986 to 1995 sbc 350 truck dampener is the larger heavier design and it is already internal balanced and will more than likely have a few more years of service left in it being over 20 years younger.(a Vortec dampener is the larger size but the bottom pulley would need to be spaced out the thickness of the reluctor wheel I think it might be called that is on the crank behind the timing chain cover or source that wheel and install that under the cover so the pulleys line up?)
And I did hear what he said but what he said wasn't right for 2022, maybe 20 years ago would be more doable but not now. The sbc 400 dampener would have to be sent out to have machined for $100 an hour plus or minus which would take around an hour and a half and then around another $300 to have it rebuilt! You can still get one of the ones mentioned above for about $20 at a junkyard. I know which one I would choose, what about you?
You are right - was not thinking clearly there.
Vale`Marvin Burke. Good to see you back David. Hoping to see more of your excellent videos in the future. Regards Greg
I feel like I should be sipping wine while I'm watching this.
What a perfect excuse to acquire a new toy!
Her: You want to buy a _WHAT?_ 🤯
Me: It's just a small milling machine, honey. David told me I need it. 😁
Great to see you back sir
I am glad to see you again. Good show! This is something I been hoping for. Thank you.
Always appreciate your time and videos
really like your detail and experience. great work
Well done vid! The name for the paint used inside the head iis "Glyptol" Pat. 3M . liquid insulation for motor windings, transformers etc.. The other reason to use it, it sheets oil so more gets back to the pan quicker. RHS who now is part of comp cams built me a mild 468 BBC for my jet boat. They used Glyptol in the head and in the valley. That was in the 80's. I had no idea till they told me!
David this was a phenomenal video! Thank you for all these tips!
Another great video thanks again always like to see your videos I learn something new every time
When I looked at the video title, which promised:
"... 60 lbs-ft and 60 hp ..."
I said to myself:
Well hell, I could make that kind of power, without installing half of the pistons."
LOL 👍👍😎
Thanks, David. I am glad to see you are back at it.
It is always a pleasure watching your videos but actually listening Sir I can't get enough love every minute of it thank you for sharing some incredible knowledge
As always, excellent information.
Good information David. From one David to another keep the good stuff coming.
I like this a lot. Very clearly explained with excellent well illumined video. All of the old school tricks, but brought up to date.
Thank you DV . RIP MB
When I got your book many years ago now, I was operating a SERDI 60 for a living, I noticed that the angles of the seats you recommended correspond with certain SERDI cutters, I put a five angle seat on a set of Chevy 229 V6 heads that I cut out for 1.94's, they went on a 4.3 V6 to bump up the compression ratio, it was installed in a CJ5, it was a great combination!
Really enjoy the knowledge your passing on!
I always thought the 229 and the 4.3 were completely different motors ?
@@luckyPiston the 200, 229 and 4.3 (262) are Chevy engines, 3/4 of the small block V8, the 225, 252 are Buick engines.
@@stevegarboden2437 I'll be darned, i never considered that that 90* V6 could also be a variant of the 267 and the 305 learn sumpem new everyday LOL !
Always very interesting. Great dedication to your dear friend Marvin. All the best to you. Looking forward to part 2. 👍😎👍
Glad to see you back. You have been greatly missed ! 👍
I have used my 1T arbor press as a spring checker and spring compressor using an O2 sensor socket.
THANK YOU DAVID, YOU ARE APPRECIATED.
Thank you David.
Didn’t realize those were 041 heads until I caught the casting numbers. Absolutely enjoy the videos. Thank you sir
Last engine I built I used them. That was back in mid-80's. When unleaded gas came on the scene I quit messing with mods. Started driving 4 cylinders that got 32 MPG running them hard as i could. Slow but cheap to drive!
The best engine for all around use I've built was almost exactly the same as recommended here. Not my highest horsepower/torque engine, but best all around.
Welcome back David , and thank you again for your excellent insight into powerful engines for the home builder. Cheers
Thank u D.V....this is a video almost anyone can relate to...exclent info for all us poor people...:-D ....! Especily like to see the tecneicks of a master engine builder such as yourself...! Thank u ...sorry for your loss...stay healthy D.V...reguards Brian
David, I have to thank you for your work. It's absolutely incredible knowledge. There's no one I've learned more from. Gale Banks is second behind you. Lots of math on duration, moving torque peak, etc. The one thing I'm going to share with you that blew my mind is on exceeding peak flow lift because it's a factor of time. If you only lift to peak flow, ie 0.600" , then peak flow is achieved for a fraction of a second. If flow goes flat at .600 and you go to 0.700" it creates a square wave flow over time vs a sinusoidal curve with a flow peak. Exceeding peak flow lift leaves a peak flow flat top resulting in greater area under the curve with the same centerline and duration. Square wave lift flow patterns.
EXACTLY.👍
That's a point grossly misunderstood by most all.
Run all the lift possible for your duration.
Yes...for a point of view of power. But speaking of street engine or "all around" one there is also valve acceleration (cam lobe surface loads), valve side loads and valve spring durability. Power and durability (high mileage) are always in some kind of balance...which you have to decide when building engine.
🔔😎
Many comments/ confusion about LSA / LCA and installed centerline.
I'll try. Ford 5.0 HO cam:
Intake lobe centerline 118*
Exhaust lobe centerline 113*
Add together ÷ 2
118+113 = 231 ÷ 2 = 115.5 Lobe separation angle.... Ground into cam
Intake lobe centerline 118* is the installed centerline as per the timing gears.
118 - 115.5 = 2.5* advanced
Hope this helps. 😎
Very good info David.
I use the same Erson PBM springs.
They work good and are affordable.
The SBI valves, seals are good replacement parts.
I liked your tricks on painting the heads with the washers and valve shims.
Great idea.
Very nice castings you had.
That is extremely rare in this day and age.
Thanks for sharing.
Take care, Ed.
That mini Cooper trophy reminds me about all the stories ive read on your books as a young boy in the mid 90s, about your mini and you beat way faster cars with a Carbed Mini. I was hooked and i need to learn,. By the time i was 16 i could run cicles around the old timers around me, and could spot manny mistakes in head size, wrong cams,. So Thankful for your willingness to share your knowledge.
Thanks for the great video.
So sorry for your loss Mr. Vizard. My condolences to you and yours.
Great video sir
I went to one of your classes at your home. Met Marvin ,was one of the most down to earth people. David could you do a carb. tutorial
Sure - will try for next spring.
Great video!
Do the 107 and 108 lobe center angles mention work on a 2wd street driven pickup.... Say 4400 to 4800 lbs.
Not a tow rig, just a driver.
Great information and so well explained.
Condolences for your loss David
The trick with the milling machine is pretty ingenious. I'll have to try that with my drill press.
You are a very good man, a professor of the craft, I would love to have you work on my engine🇺🇸👍
Thank you for listing and giving recommendations on the parts you are using, particularly the brands. This video has been a better step by step than some of the previous. Really good job. It is also very helpful when you mention what products (lubes/pastes/brands etc) you use as this helps me get a better idea of what to bother with, instead of getting perplexed with decisions.
I would like to express that I really appreciate that you are teaching me what you have already done the hard yards with David. Thank you so much
Spray your glyptal outside - its potent stuff.
@@flinch622 what's that supposed to mean?
@@shanedavid814 It means... absent a professional vent hood system, the business of applying insulating varnish will hurt you.
@@flinch622 may I ask what this has to do with my comment to David? Not sure where it fits in?
@@flinch622 but I have my suspicions
Those look like 041 heads. those are great for street builds. I have a set on my old truck. 9.3 static compression, 2.02/1.6 valves and Howards retro roller 485/495 110 lobe separation, Comp full roller rockers 1.52 ratio. intake is an Edelbrock performer with a Holley Sniper EFI. The truck is mean!
DV's calculation program probably recommends a tighter LSA.
@@hotrodray6802 I called and talked to the people at Howards. that was the cam they had in stock. They were having trouble getting cores. They actually recommend a slightly smaller cam for my application with a 108 lobe speration but said this one would work well. It does the job. I don't have the Dyno sheet but if I recall it makes 380 something HP and 400 something torque.
My grampa said that the most important specs of any build was a four on the floor and a fifth under the seat.
Thank you for your knowledge share.
D.V .glad to see your back ...thank you for all you do!!!!
In a day and age of computers it is good to see your attention to detail (and not speed). Even though I am a Mopar guy, I will apply your tecniques to the Mope and if nothing else know it is put together right. Love the accent too! Thank you very much.
Thanks Rupert
Still building horsepower!
If u follow his advice you should have a nice street engine thank u David for the best advice possible
Thank you.
Thanks for the video David I know it's not easy for you to do you but keep I'm sure Marvin would like you to do that
Another great video to put to practical use, #DavidVizardPerformance! I can combine this with some earlier porting videos to put some #416 heads on the stock 400sbc in my truck. Bump in compression, and budget as I have the heads already, and it should be a good driver style truck!
FREE is a good price 👍👍😎
Thanks!
I had really good luck with a rebuilt 406 SBC Shortblock (stock replacement 12.43 cc dish) with #441 (Number inline with runner variation) wiith minor bowl, throat and short turn work, Custom Cam that later became the CC CS 270AH-8 0.313/0.307 (0.501/0.491 w/ 1.6 stamped rockers) 270/280 224/230 108 installed on 105. With a stock '69 QJ Med Rise Intake and 1.625" Headers, it pushed a 4400 lb truck with 3.31, 26" tires and stock converter deep in the 8's / 13's and 7's / 12's on the bottle. The 307 Turbo-Fire Decal on the air cleaner lid was the finishing touch. Getting a heavy street vehicle to run with a stock converter is all about power under the curve not big peak numbers.
👍 More produced torque makes a converter stall higher.
GodSpeed Marvin....
This is gold
I have been missing Andy too
When I went from a performer rpm to a performer rpm air gap on a AMC 360, I had to go to annular booster. I couldn’t get my straight leg 600 to work or my down leg VS 750 to work either. They had big flat spots between the transfer slot and main jets. They had both worked perfectly on the heated performer rpm.
The annular 600 summit racing carb fixed my problem. Your buddy Andy from Unity Motorsport pointed this out on one of his videos. I then went and re read your how to tune holleys book and found it all the info in there.
Interesting, Anulars fog a little better so it would be safe to say the air gap intakes are more demanding of a finer mix ?
So i have a Vortec 383 with a Edelbrock performer (w/no heat crossover) and when i went from a holley 650 spread bore to the Slayer VS 750 the motor fell flat on its face, it idled just sweet and when you blipped the throttle it was instant revs but as soon as i tried to drive it wouldn't turn past 2k rpm, tried jetting it up but that just wrecked that sweet idle and didn't make it any more driveable , ended up puttin on a Holley 3310 but it didn't run quite as nice as that old spread bore
@@luckyPiston . So the way I understand it is the colder the intake, the smaller the droplet size you will need, to stop it condensing on the intake walls and be a good droplet size by the time it gets from the carb to the combustion chamber.
Downleg annular always win.
Fantastic learning experience without all the background music when you were sharing your directions/insight. Thank you DV for keeping the music in the transitions only, very much appreciated. I've bought your books from Amazon, how else can we help support your videos/builds/teaching? Thank you.
Spread the word Dudebro.
Nice!
Nice detailed video. We used to pound the valve stems after keeper installation with a dead blow hammer. I don't recall why this was recommended. If a keeper pair was binding a little, it should fully seat itself on the first crank over.
I was taught to bump them to insure they're seated.
I can read fast but not that fast awesome video thank you for your knowledge Sir
I have a pause button.
chevy v8 small block standard head from 1975-mid 1985, i was on the other side dodge Or ford! i got odd oil company job, in the early 2000 i was in pits of pulling tractors ( great right what a tractor got, this where odd came in v8 chevy how more then one sb or big block, a few, may jet turbine's & what was a diesel v8 the fuel injectors were some replaced with spark-plugs there was different intake and injectors and a way to spark off the alkie on a 3000 hp engine in a tractor ps main bearing ever run ruined till this oil) ps your boating oil needed tested! i got free tour tractor pulling rigs! some were wild!
With deep regards to your loss(es) those are a tough, tough, thing. I was able to find a current LS based 108 LSA versus all comers t was from Richard Holdener and yet it showed 108 LSA visibly ahead of everyone else by a significant amount. My hat is off to you.
Yes. Holdener did an lsa test, same cam specs only lsa changes on a 500hp engine. 120, 112 and 108. The 112 lsa made 35 more ft lb to 5500 and matched the 120 after. The 108 made 14 more ftlb to 5500 than the 112 matched the curve until the last 500 rpm where it made 7hp more.
Crane used to make some super low rpm torque cams that had stock and even LESS than stock duration with 104 LSA lol. The intake valve closes at like 16° ABDC on the smaller one to build cylinder pressure.
I used to deal some with REED Cams in Atlanta, and Steve Demos worked for them. I think he ended up with some of their masters and maybe equipment. Great guy and a wealh of knowledge. Thanks for the tip!!
Have heard of Reed Cams. I'm wondering what cam characteristics would be optimal for a low compression (8.8, 327) small block.with large 215cc ports that aren't as efficient as newer castings.
DV's cam calculator will tell you
Rodney, yes I know Steve and plan on doing business with him!
@@DavidVizard Fantastic! I have admired your work since I was 10yrs old in fact, and I just turned 55! Cheers!
David david " it takes one to know one" you are the best!! You da man!!!😂😮😂😮!
Glyptal is an excellent paint to use on engine internal casting surfaces. The surface must be free of oil and water and thoroughly washed. You want no residue from a caustic bath left on the casting to be painted or it will affect adhesion.. Glyptal can be sprayed if thinned with Xylol or Xylene. It is commercially available at home centers and hardware stores. The surface should be wiped off with Acetone prior to painting so all moisture is removed. I called Glyptal for this information. Cleaned properly, adhesion will not be a problem. G.E. (General Electrid founded by Thomas Edison) patented Glyptal back in 1914 and it was developed into a paint in the 1930's. Since then, the company was spun off by G.E. sometime in the 80"s.
What he is doing here is using dynamic compression to help with overlap and make the engine flow hard early something like this will be done by 5500 if you recut stock cam but would be a monster the whole way
Great video! Subscribed!
Now do not install the small o-ring seals that go on the valve stem? Just under the keeper’s
I use pieces of rubber hose on my valve guides and rocker studs then my glyiptol electric motor paint
If you want a lite valvetrain. Overheads cam engines win.
Bv
I did this back in the 80s
Bloodviking
Wow nice shout out to Steve Demos.
That is a 041x cylinder head. It comes from the factory with ports about 10cc larger than other fuelie style heads. I have modded that head to 275cfm with a 2.055" valve but casting thickness must be watched.
Charlie - with your excellent porting skills this is nothing les than I would expect!! Take care my friend.
DV
@@marvingvx1 Thanks, David. Cheers!
David, I want to build a copy of this motor, or one like it perhaps. the cam I wish to use is the Howards MC110961-08 with 285 duration, 108 lobe sep. angle and 470/470 lift. It's supposed to be good for 2000-6200 - which is perfect for me. I will use your iron heads or the Jegs copy of the double hump fuelie heads in Aluminum. Best wishes from Down Under Tom!
There are heads that give more power in part from a smaller combination chamber. Not all from flow
The presentation on this video was better than some in the past. I would only say you should work on getting the camera closer when you are trying to show something and give it a bit more screen time.
We've had irrefutably good luck with Isky cams as well.
Their 'mega' flat tappets seem to follow your thoughts of a narrower lsa single pattern cam. Specifically the 270, I have experience with in two separate sbc's, and it's a positive one. They seem to run very well in the mid range with the stock cylinder heads.
I have used some of Isky's megadyne cams with grest sucess as their catalog cams are more often usable due to having a tighter LCA than most other companies.
Hi Mr. Vizard, you and Cattledog have inspired me to do a 383 build to see if I could do as good of a job. I am using a '79 sbc 350 off my z28. using 13004000 rotating assembly with a SK12-246-3 comp cams. Now I know it is not an 107-108 LSA but it is a 110. I know you poo poo on this but considering cost time and effect I thought it would be the closest match for what I have on hand already without getting special grinds. Hopefully you can watch what I am doing and possibly give me a few pointers oh yes 180 cc flotek heads I am running thus the cam selected.
👍👍👍
DV; Don’t forget to eat your Grape Nuts! w
Why I don't like flat tappet cams
We like roller cams vs flat tappets because they don't need break in and it frees up frictional drag giving more hp over a flat tappet and we can use a better valve spring.
Bloodviking
Awesome video David ! Thank you.. here's a question.. what is the criteria on power brake (vacuum) ? how does LSA effect vacuum at idle ?
Also, on the use of your COMP height mic, the retainer is down in the step, you have to subtract the measurement of how deep the step is. It's made to measure on the outer diameter of the mic. hope that helps
LCA does NOT affect idle vacuum - overflap does.
Can you do this with ls1 style heads? 706,862,243 please. I watch and apply all your gen 1 sbc stuff to the gen 3 heads. Thanks for giving your knowledge away for free. That's some true, blue hot rodding.
Thank you for such good videos and info. On the topic of Center line, I built a 460 for primarily torque at lower RPMs. The intake center line is 108, but the exhaust is 116. Is this a problem or does the 107 and 108 degrees mostly apply to intakes? When I told the cam company what I was doing, "hulling a large truck camper" this is what they suggested. Lift is 506/519 and Advertised duration is 264/268. Thanks again for your time.
when he says 107-108 center line, he means Lobe Separation Angle or LCA, intake Center line is the Intake lobe Center line when installed