Projecting Tactics For a Weak Climber
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- Опубликовано: 9 июл 2022
- How do I climb what I climb, being relatively weak for the Grade?
Part 1: • 5.13 / 8a Without Trai...
Obviously there are many factors to Climbing Performance, outside just physical strength.
Too many to put into one video, but here are some basics and more to come in the future episodes.
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Deep Thanks!
Ben
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#sportclimbing #leadclimbing #climbing 
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This is seriously the best climbing channel on the internet. Thank you for putting in so much work and creating such amazing content and giving so so so much information. I appreciate you and your friends so much 🙏🏼💜
Ah my pleasure to read :D
I agree!
Totally agree!
totally agree ❤ now I will no longer avoid it, but proudly make use of weak climber's technique😅
Love the video Ben! You literally described every technic I was used on my last climbing trip where I managed to push my grade from 7b to the first 8a in three month. Can't wait to see the video with your training results!
Well done dude! And thanks as well :D
Awesome. Unlocking seemingly impossible sequences is one of the most gratifying things in rock climbing. I'v been climbing for quite a while now, yet it never ceases to amaze me how such subtle differences in body position can totally be the missing element when trying to send a hard route. Pretty amazing when the magic happens ;)
Literally dropped everything I was doing when I got the notification this video was out to watch it 🔥
I climbed a lot on the east coast US back in my late teens and early 20's. Now im 54 and you are inspiring me to get back into it. Thanks for your great vids. And keep up the good work.
Thanks Ben for video. I wasn't climbing for more than 12 years now. And such videos motivates me to start training again. Especially real rocks climbing. Just watching ascent part - make me remember this fillings: fear, pump in arms, deep breath, adrenalin,.... Thanks!
This video series has inspired me to finally start pushing past the plateau I've been stuck on for some time. Such a good series Ben!
Please keep up your work Ben, Your videos are the ones that every time I see there is a new one i cannot miss it out :)
I really love your videos! It's not easy to say interesting and technical stuff and being so chill and fun as well! You really have a talent for storytelling. I hope to see you sending your first 8a in the next videos!
FANTASTIC video, so good. I'm currently projecting on my first 7c and this episode just came with perfect timing. I really suffered with you guys just watching the video. Can't wait for the 8a episode!
Cant wait to see 8A!! Good luck dude!
Cheers Olivier!
You motivated me to start climbing outdoor, and now this summer i will try to beat 6c with my new climbing friends :) thanks a lot and keep up the good work !
Nice work ! Both on working on bettering yourselves and nice work on the video too 👏🏼 well done !
Thank you for the insightful and cool content as usual ! And warm greetings to you and Ana ✨
Much love !
i love this series, please keep them coming!
amazing video! thanks for explaining how to cope with this "Sending pressure" I know too good by myself. thanks for letting know your experience so honestly. and congratulation for what you all were able to reach! I am impressed!
I love your videos! Watching them is so inspiring and gives me confidence to go out and do some more difficult routes on lead.
This is very educational and i try to apply it to my indoor climbing! I hope to get onto real rock some time soon. Thanks for all your great videos!
Your channel is an inspiration! Keep up the great work! I never had a chance to climb a cliff, but I admire watching your journey! I have been working on high altitudes, but that's absolutely diferent stuff. God Bless You!
I laughed so hard at hannah's reaction when you asked if she can do her own quick draws 😂😂 way to get her to do the hard work for you
Yeaah :))))
Thank you, Ben! Perfect video, as usual! 👏👏👏
Really enjoying these stories/tutorials. Thanks !
I am an avid follower of Adam Ondra and Magnus Midtbø until I decided to take a certification on belaying and safety and got across this channel and found out that there will be a 3rd youtube climbing channel I will be subscribed and waiting everyday for a new video. Watched already like 30 of your videos in the past 3 days, its addicting and so educational. Congratulations.
Excellent and great pedagogy! So much to unpack, but scads of great tips to apply. Thanks!
This was awesome. Great editing and music too.
Just recently returned to climbing after a 3 year break and noticed a ton of new climbing channels but this is one of the few very fantastic and informative ones.
It’s been great going through and reminding myself of a few techniques and learning a heap of new ones from your channel.
I am also about to start a training plan but from Neil Gresham who has been super super helpful with some dietary advice he gave me for free before I even considered a plan flat on him.
I’ve already lost a stone but still have 2 to go and my initial goal is to get back to red pointing 7A in session. I’ll then get a longer one during winter for the lead up to Kalymnos next year. Can’t wait to get 💪
Good luck with your plan buddy, you’ll be absolutely smashing it with the extra strength gains especially since you’ve already got technique. 💪
Damn man hope you can get your stone back
Gracias por enseñarnos, hacer las pruebas del material, por compartir y por ser tan simpáticos ,tener tan buen humor y hacernos sentir como de la familia!
You always make such great videos, thanks! and it's especially great to see how you break the climb down in this one. Very valuable tactics! cheers!
My pleasure! And thanks for the comment!
It must be so cool to have time like that to improve on youre project !
Thx for the vidéo, really motivating to push harder
I am very impressed with Hannah's development over the course of the video's, she has become quite a badass climber!
Love this mini-series. Cannot wait for the 8a episode! Cheers
Woaah that's great :D It's a bit of experiment for me these videos - so comments like this are really nice :D
Thanks for great video! I also use such techniques for projecting. One more tip, which use sometimes on projects (7c as well): tape your fingers pads, while projecting. Yes, it makes route harder, but you have enough of skin for sending.
Great video as always! 👏 🙇 And the route looks 🔥
Yea the route is super super! Thanks for algorithm boost :D
Thanks for your videos! we have the war in Ukraine, i am in the army, can't go to any crags and your detailed betas gives me feeling like I climbing by myself. Waiting for 8a betas and sending )
Wow dude, big respect for you guys up there to go through all you have to atm! Hope it ends soon!
Strength brother!
I hope you can come back to climbing projects as soon as possible bro! Wish you all the best 💪🏻🇺🇦
Verry nice! I hope Hanna can do it next time. Grats to you and Charlie
Accepting the idea of failure is key! It's a great way to decrease pressure! However, if your identity is very attached to climbing (or you are a comp climber and failure has very negative drawbacks) this might be easier said than done. In these case, pressure management is the way. Gread video, as always!
Your vid making skills are evolving along your climbing skills, Ben, good job ;)
Cheers :D Trying to up the quality :)
@@HardIsEasy and it looks like you are doing it right! Well done and thanks!
Very nice speech about pressure on oneself. I struggle with it and this gave me a good feeling and motivation :) thank you very much. Would love to meet you guys in person one day. Tell me when you're back in camp4 Zweibrücken again
I just wanted to say how fantastic your content is Ben. In an age of clickbait and quantity over quality your channel is one of the few that i can watch a full 30+ minute video and not get bored. If you ever wanted to come to the UK and try trad climbing I'd be more than happy to facilitate.
Oh (wo)Man that's so nice to read :D I'm trying my best to not get sucked to more more more more more content trend :D
@@HardIsEasy You're doing a fantastic job and really sticking out from the crowd! I watch all of your stuff from start to end wheras on other channels i just skip forward a lot of the time. Keep it up!
Thank you for a great video series again! Your channel rocks 💪🧗♂️👌
Hey thank you so much Aki Buri! And yea... my chennel is about rocks :D
@@HardIsEasy I know and it rims well! 😁
Talking about allowing yourself to fail - I think a better way to look at it is to make every failure a success. For example, if you fail on your first send attempt, then you succeeded in finding your limit. Actually every failed attempt can be seen as a success in terms of gaining new information. Sometimes I tell myself just to have a go just to see how I will feel at the crux when starting from the ground. Or how I will feel after having already 3 previous attempts that day etc etc.
I think Louis Parkinson had a great take on "failing", though he's mostly a boulderer, it still applies to routes. If you fall, you ask yourself: 1) Why did I fall? 2) What am I going to do differently on the next go? This way, without even having to have any sort of "meta" success for the burn, you have a win. (You are also not allowed to answer "Because I'm a weak climber." ;) )
Simply failing does not mean you gained new information if you don’t take the time to assess, process, and use. Sometimes is simply the muscle memory to flow better and output less energy, might be honestly too weak or unfit overall, and might be those moves in isolation are not possible on point and battering against them is a poor tactic.
Amazing content!
Merci beaucoup pour ces vidéos! Cheers
You were in Albarracín!! I would love some bouldering videos. Amazing job, congrats for everything
Yea nice place :) videos... well at some point :)
Hello Ben, thanks for the vid! It seems you are still practicing Vipassana, don't you? I have to send you a HUGE thanks for that Vipassana video! You made me discover it, I followed a 10 day course in june, and I feel "anicca" strongly now. Sitting two hours a day (...more or less...) makes me feel much better in everyday life!🧘♂
Another great vid...Thankyou.
Hi! Thank you for this video, extremely instructive and fun to watch as usual! I'm curious, where is this crag?
Wow! Nice moves! Unos agarres muy interesantes! Most important aspect that you mentioned! Calm down when you climb hardest level! Amazing video! Gracias! Venga!!! 🧗🏻🇨🇴
Hay Ben! Thank you for another fantastic climbing video, I rarely had this tension and interest in watching other non-pro people sending a route. Just one question: where is this crag? Looks a lot like Valencia area!
😍😍😍😍 loved this video
What a progression!
I actually like it when routes are bolted in a way that doesn't allow you to check out almost everything from quickdraws and you have to climb hard sections from the ground to get up. It's way more adventureous. Still your tips are nice. I feel like my tactics and stuff are pretty good and what's holding me personaly back the most are other things in life like university and things like short seasons and bad weather.
If you don't stick clip through cruxes and just bang your head against the wall your tactics aren't optimal
Occasional adventuresome routes are great, but having to fight every sequence to work an upper crux or not being able to feel holds and stances out on old or new projects is tedious. Mostly the adventuresome is nice on the onsight because you’ll fight your way all the same, but then the route needs to be closer to “onsightable” with reasonable rests and more obvious beta.
perfect episode)))
Tactics make such a big difference, I focussed on tactics for a few months to climb my first 7c. By the way, pretty crazy how the average 7c climber can do 150% max hang, I used to think I was strong but I'm at 119% haha
Good luck on the 8a! Let me know if you're in Berdorf we could exchange 8a projects ;)
There are many factors contributing to climbing performance and one metric of 7s hang is not enough for sure :D
also for the hang, the hand position can change a lot. Like, you can have really strong fingers, if you never use half crimp your result will not be that meaningful : it can only mean that you have a weak half crimp. I think this is why the lattice test was with a lot of different hangs (full crimp, half crimp, open hand)
let's not forget that Lattice's data comes from a biased sample
@@AllegraClimbingPsychologist Biased how? (I can think of several biases, but am curious as to what specifically you are thinking.)
@@toddgreen6862 clearly the fact that people doing lattice testing are usually people that care about it and therefore train on fingerboard
The best YT channel 🔝🔝🔝
amazing !!!!
Красавчик, что тут ещё сказать!
26:39
to make a wound heal the best and the fastest when you seal it with superglue you need to still tightly bond the bits of skin together but allow it to breath so cover it partially
however i dont know how a seal likethat will hold up when climbing tho
Love your videos mate! Cheeky question - you mentioned that holding the quickdraws when they're below you can be dangerous... But how about using your teeth to hold the rope while clipping? I know someone who lost teeth that way, but it seems every last climber does it 🙊
USING CYANOACRYLATE!!!, When you use superglue on cuts/wounds such as shown, it is great for holding the closure normally; but for climbing you need to also immediately sprinkle baking soda heavily into the glue on the wound/cut as this will make the resulting repair much much more solid(stronger/harder) (potentially you need to sprinkle baking soda on the wound first in order to get better penetration into the glue) Then you truly can sand down the resulting bump!!!!
thanks for the tuto
Check exposure compensation in your recording gear for clips pointing upwards. Or easiest on the field, just avoid showing much sky to help the auto exposure understand you are interested in the dark area.
Amazing video! I don't know if I missed it somewhere, but what is that crag? :)
I also wonder...
I am weak and heavy climber and this is the same approach i do myself ;-)
Thx!
7:20 "that's why we wear helmets as a belayer"
yes, everyone please wear helmets if your head is even slightly at risk. you're inside there, so protect yourself
9:31 another good rule is to try to orient the nose of the rope carabiner to the opposite of your palm, if ou will pull with right hand, clip carabiner with gate oriented to the left, make sense?
Hey Man, nice vid. That place looks really familiar. Is it liber aka penja roja? Just south of gandia?
Ah yes, and well done for the send 😬
Have you considered selling merch? I would immediately buy a HIE shirt!
"The slopper is nice" just look at the face 🤣 14:26
Next video: Weaker Climber Projecting Tacos.
(No idea why but my brain misread the title that way, and I think it would be 🔥)
What do you do if you're projecting a route but don't manage to get to the top? How do you retrieve your quickdraws?
Could you do a video on weight differences of belayers/climbers and who can belay who?
It's on my todo list :D
Very nice! Whats the name of the route?
I need the music playlist to send my projects, pretty please!
I'm weak and I aprove this message
How would you reclaim the used quickdraws if nobody can send the route succesfully?
I really loved this video. Esp the sending part. I was routing for you guys so much.
I'll make a separate video on your question: but normally ether stick clip, use some funky techniques or climb around a crux (if there is an easier route next to it).
And thanks for routing for us :)
Usual answer is to bail. Inspect the bolt you’ll lower off or use a second below, then use a carabiner (quicklinks are preferred, closed, to allow the next climbers to clip in while on point) either clip one under the draw on the same bolt, clip the rope to, and then belayer tensions the rope and you remove the draw then lower and clean. Or clip the rope into the bolt side of the draw, unclip the rope from your usual rope side and take off the dog bone to preserve most of the draw. Because the bolt side carabiner has to be opened to do this and the rope will normally rest atop the dog bone done this way, you may need to flip the bolt carabiner to provide more space or grab the draw while you shift things to unweight the rope before retrieval.
However, there are often ways around by pulling on draws to get leverage for a few moves and simply lock in for a clipping stance.
Where Is that crag? Handsome video anyway. I'm still at lower grades but I always suck at my first attempt, expecially when the route is close to my grade limit. I have to understand the moves, where are the holds and foot holds, understand the moves to do and finally I can climb that route quite easily.
Hey Ben, I'm currently climbing in Leonidio, Greece. Here there are a lot of 45 or more meter routes with two anchors. It would be awesome if you could do a video on best practice for cleaning these routes with an 80 meter rope. It doesn't seem to be a video covered yet by RUclips.
Enjoy beautiful Leonidio! And yea cleaning anchors is on my TODO :)
@@HardIsEasy awesome, please add a bit on extra long routes 😉🙏
4:30 “such a fun move”
Charlie: *screams in pain*
Hanna: *screams in more pain*
Sure… “fun” XD
what crag is that? it looks awesome!
A 9a climber once told me, every failed send attemp is another opportunity to enjoy the route
Drop knee is a so powerful move but it has to really drop to get the good position and additional support, she could get way better by dropping more. By the way I like the way she climbs, proper knee down could make her even better.
Depends on position of holds and rock above, could be she had the best position for her frame. One important aspect about drop knees is being extremely engaged and conscious efforts and therefore pulls the climber into the wall unlike a slapped down toe where a climber may not activate and pull with the foot but could.
Now I’m curious how strong your friend is in the lattice test 😹
Quick questions what rope you use here in this video, i see it take a lots of fall or mini falls in what category are rate it, you rope is good after so many times
I used Mammut 9.5mm rope, but most ropes are ok with these falls, if you want to learn more about that I recommend to watch my Belay Masterclass on Ropes. Ep.5
great
What crag is this?
nice
This is my favorite climbing channel! You're so relateable. I feel like I'm hanging out with a cute climbing partner with a sexy accent ;-)
How do you film these videos in the air? Ascending a rope?
The route looks great! Where is it and what is the name please? Thanks!
Maragda at Peña Roja
Life doesn‘t always have a happy ending, that’s right but on the up side it either doesn‘t always have a catastrophic ending 😁
Ok, now, i have a question.
And maybe you allready have a video on this.
Suppose you project a hard route and nobody on the crew gets to the top...
How do you recover the quickdraws you setted if nobody can get to the reunion on the top ?
Third! Love your channel
4th Thank You :D
@@HardIsEasy would you consider doing a video on transitioning from indoor to outdoor sport. Gear list + key skills (making anchor etc). I think this would be really useful :)
@@timpowell516 My Belay Master class is covering the gear and will cover all technical skills needed.
When It comes to Transition... yea that could be an episode on its own - gonna put to the list of ideas :)
Ei, maybe you said it in the first video but, where is this climb?
👍
how can you possibly trust a belayer who doesn't hold the brake hand and keeps their thumb on the grigri cam? I know, he caught you over and over, it just seems totally unsafe.
Is Hanna german? I just realized that she said “Mach zu” and stuff :) Didn’t think that before because she has nearly no accent!
Yes she is. There are many previous Videos where you can here her talk in German too
I thought she was from Switzerland or Austria
@@SROribe To me she sounds like some people I knew growing up who were from southwestern Bavaria, so also "alpine german" if that makes sense^^
09:25 Also known as the legendary Jesus Crimp
Did he say the grade of this route? It looks hard.
7c
As a fellow weak climber I also grab every crimp as a full crimp.
Be aware that this is technical “overgripping” (not simply anxiety induced) and will occlude far more bloodflow than most other grip positions as well as restricts lateral movement more. Course, when you need to full crimp you need to, and should be a strong tool, too many crimpy cruxes and microcruxes out there to count, but have to get away from the tool purely from an efficiency standpoint as well as a limiting factor on certain traversing or wide moves.