Training VS Just Climbing
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- Опубликовано: 2 сен 2022
- At age 35 I was always curious is it too late to start Training? And is that gonna help my Climbing or I should stick to Just Climbing?
After all Climbing is also Training...
And what is more fun?
Big thanks to @LatticeTraining for Guidance!
And big big thanks to all my friends who been on this Journey:
/ _anabergamaschi_
/ charliedanfarrow
/ meel.fay
/ samueltuor
And also me, since I'm my best friend:
/ hard.is.easy
If you are getting value out of my videos and wanna feel good - consider supporting me: hardiseasy.com
Because that makes a big difference and is the main reason that allows me do this project!
Deep Thanks!
Ben
♫ Music for my videos comes from
www.epidemicsound.com/referra... 
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The way I see it, the secret to sending your first 8a is to race with another friend who also wants to send their first 8a, on the same route. No higher possible motivation in the multiverse.
The secret to climbing an 8a is climbing with someone who can already climb 8a. I notice climbing with guys who can push a couple grades higher than me ends up pushing me to new heights without fail
@@V8chump like bears
Highly agree, makes it even better when you climb with someone that’s basically your level. I often find with my partner we challenged each other a lot more as some days one is stronger than the other.
23:46 the face when the team kids warm up on your project. We've all been there.
That feeling of 'I am impressed, I admire you, but also I hate you..'
I've had the ability to do this and I felt so bad but so happy with hard far I'd come it's similar feelings on the other side!
Regarding this woman sending the route so easily, there's still loads of technical components to learn beside physical training. The way she climbs just looks so much more experienced and efficient..
The efficiency of movement was quite visible. I see the same in experts of many disciplines.
Yeah I'm definitely interested in making notes on that. If I give myself the time some evening I might even do a two browser window side-by-side analysis of that crux to see what she does differently
: very interesting. Her foot placement is way more efficient, especially just after clipping in before the reach to the high crimp (which she pinches, he doesn't).
She seems much more stable on that move because of her feet being on the route, rather than one like he did.
The next move to the right side pull. Again it seems like foot placement (she's swapped to a left crimp hold now) make it easier for her to not peel off/gravity pull her to the left like it does for him.
She has great awareness of her centre of gravity? for the next clip she repositions her feet to under her right hand while she uses left to clip. he doesn't.
The next sequence they do very differently. He goes through it very quickly. left undercling, foot reposition, right pinch intermediary, right side pull/drag, fall. She goes out right first with a heel hook and right hand, reposition feet (higher left foot), left undercling (very well supported by that higher left foot I imagine) right hook to go up to that intermediary but actually use it.
Anyway, main takeaway is her footwork was a lot more advanced than his, making the climb more off a limb-by-limb-ladder climb than it was his boulder problem
It looks like a completely different route when she climbs it. Amazing. Some timestamps to compare:
1st attempt
21:32 vs 24:06
21:43 vs 24:20
2nd attempt
21:36 vs 24:43
21:50 vs 24:52
22:29 vs 25:17
i love to watch woman climb. their technique (most of the time) is flawless, their footwork like a dance and looking relaxed while doing all that, we men only think (most of the time) to our upper strenght. So much to learn from those woman sending hard grades!
I'm 53 this month Ben and I train hard. Hoping to send my 1st 7a+ (5.12a) this year. Keep on climbing. :)
Well done Felisha! Keep on Climbing as well!
That skit lmaoo. Well done!
The skit in the beginning had me laughing so hard😂😂!! Love your videos man so well made
Cheers :)))
Love this series! May your training pay off :)
This video is pure bliss Ben. Hard training & climbing all mixed with an hilarious side coming from you. Keep going
Aaah thanks a lot! Very nice to read such comments!
One important point is that you worked and sent this route more or less in the middle of a base training block. That's not optimized for sending since your training intensity and volume during that period will make your body tired until you build up for a performance phase. So I'd say sending an 8a while in hard training is very promising 👏👏🔥
That is def true... In the next episode I'll start going into Performance stage.
@@HardIsEasy when is the next episode coming?
@@tomhodges3584 Nov / Dec, I'm in a bit of filming period atm, but soon to switch to edit / publish again :)
Thank you so much for this journey!
this is huge motivation to start training harder!
This is my favorite climbing channel! I loved getting to observe your progress. Watching you guys climb, I'm yelling at my phone, "come oonnnnnn! YES!" 😂
Amazing quality content, Ben.
JMHO: The big difference between the lady that sent the route and you guys was footwork. While you guys kept looking up to the next move she was focusing on her feet. All the strength training cannot compensate for unfocused feet.
It's always impresive to see how amazing technique makes climbing sequences seem so much easier.
What a nice video to watch, thanks for your content man!
Been so excited for this video !
loving every moment of this series. Can't wait for the next one!
Ah that's nice to read! Thanks
You did a great job on this video. Congrats!
Ben you are hilarious, your video quality is top notch so much fun watching!
It's a lot of fun to look this Video. Great climbing!!!!
Dont know why. But your videos feel so heart warming! Thanks Ben :)
Great work all around! On your training, the video, and attitude about it all!
Thanks! :)
Thanks for the training insights Ben!
My pleasure.... or pain in love 🤣
Super nice video as always!
Hi Ben, loving the content. Informative, but above all loads of fun. Can I ask - what were the rest periods in between each of the exercises? I mean, 4 sets of 6 pullups but how long did you rest in between each set, for example?
Great video, thanks! The german was really inspiring 🙂
Great video, congrats!
Ben, your video are always inspiring! Keep it up!
Woah, nice to hear!
this is incredible filmmaking and quality! Thank you!
Thanks - hope the algorithm will see your comment:)))
Loved the boy/girl show off part! good comedy 🤣
Glad to hear you're heading back to TF.
Haha yea we're heading back :) but that video is filmed already last winter... :)) so need to edit edit
It would be nice to know the background of the german girl. The way she climbs says she has a lot of experience and her fingers have a lot of holding history in them. I wonder how she became so good and after how many years of climbing and training. Good to compare it to both of guys.
The important question here is… WHO SENT IT FIRST?!
Haha love the series Ben, that competitiveness is great between friends to keep hyped!! Aprieta!! 💪🏽
Haha, we both sent on the same day :) It was a sending train action... 4 different ppl sent projects :)
But yeaah... I was first 🥇🏆:)))))
@@HardIsEasy Haha!!!!!! Love to see it! 😂
@@AlbertMartino17 Yeaaa .... we lost send / after send footage... bummer
@@HardIsEasy you say that after "losing" the footage 😉... I guess we'll never know 😅
Machine!! Your channel is getting nicer every episode! best one!
Woaaah thanks a lot!
I am not related to climbing, however I have a degree in sports science. There is a general principle referred to as sport specialization, quite simply it means that you get better at climbing (or any other sport) when you do...climbing (or any other sport).
However, supplemental training with sport-specific stimuli (ie for climbing) can significantly improve performance. Like these exercises for strengthening the hands - fingers, as well as their individual muscle groups.
These according to the basic principles of science.
The final performance is of course the result of many factors, psychology, proper recovery, and what the coaches call effort in the correct overfilling period.
Thanks again for the videos, I've learned so much.
❤🙏
LOOVE this series. Also following cause you sound and look like a Viking
That's something new to hear :DDDD Thanks :D
I find myself trying to click the like button several times during the video but realize I have already clicked it.
Hope you did not clicked even amount of times
Ben excellent job!! You´re helping us a lot with your incredible videos and material!! We,re learning a lot with you! Come to Gran Canaria dude, we have incredible routes for you to enjoy!! :D
Might come at some point ;) Although I like Tenerife as well ;)
This is a great video! Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge so clearly. Can you make a video on how you film the outdoor climbing? I’d love to know how you get those sweet shots out from the wall and what the safest rigging process is for putting cameras and cameramen on a wall where people are climbing.
haha even the intro is great :D Thank You
Hahah skit was too good.
21:33
She shows really smart body positioning and not so much potency or explosiveness... impresive indeed. Really nice to see.
Yes, the heel hooks looked sleek. Why didn't the guys try this beta?
Great video!
Wow, last pull-up set with +14kg is BEAST!
Great video and congrats on the 8a. Really interesting about the training, what was your training schedule e.g 1 day training 1 day off or did you train consecutive days?
I had a list of stuff todo for a week and I was scheduling my days my self...
I think it’s odd that climbing training almost always focuses on upper body strength. Obviously, the ability to lock on to holds is key, so finger training is a must and pull-up motions are awesome but I also think that hinging, squatting, and pushing exercises are just as important. Since no one climbs with just their arms and back.
Finally! Someone saying it! since I started climbing it has become a meme with my climbing partner saying "Thanks to the Pistols that I did".
Steven Low, the author of overcoming gravity, has a blog speaking about strength development and maintenance for climbing and bouldering that I think is very on point
Great channel!! Subscribed!!🙃
Hey Ben. Really cool video, enjoying the content as always. I'm honestly not trying to be "that guy", but one thing I noticed when you were doing your pinch strength training is that your hand was pretty far down the side of the pinch block, not sure if you've seen or not, but there is a line on each side (the one that lines up with the screw holes) that you should try and line your finger tips up with. As long as you're keeping your fingers in the same place it won't make a difference to your training (I don't think), but it makes it a lot harder if you keep your fingertips lined up there! If you check the Lattice instructions for it it talks about it. Cheers!
Cheers for the comment and notice. I know about the line and my deeper grip was intentional;) but yea I can't compare my self to others in that case who stay on the line, but I don't care ;)
Thanks for the video! Balance is definitely key, especially as you get older. 30's aren't kind without cross-training. :P
Loving this series! I prefer to "just climb" too, but find I don't get outside as often as I'd like, so I want to use my training to get the most out of the days I do get.
Ahh nice ;) And yea you gotta do what you gotta do and enjoy the process!
That's Lliber un Alicante region, isn't It? Cool spot and really good video. Keep Up!
I did my first 8a in 1993 with only climbing. I am now working 8b+ with mostly just training + climbing on project. I almost never do pull-ups with full grip, but with 3 finger open drag.
Put the pinky on, not very good for the tendon sheath since the pinky and ring finger share it
@@iamillasfuck nah...been training and climbing like this for many decades no issues.
I love these videos😂
never underestimate the power of extending clips. If you had extended the first difficult clip, you could have likely clipped from that right hand pocket, saving a lot of energy.
Conrcrats to your first 8a!
Thanks ;)
Very good video sir
🤣 I love the start ^^, rest is good to of course
Great vid! Haven't enjoyed youtube so much in ages! And you didn't say who sent it first!!!!
Aaaw nice thanks!
Where in Spain is the climb? We're coming to altea in december.
Charlie's face, when lovely German girl crushes the proj 😂
Dude, colab with magnus/wide boys etc for some training vids. Would be great to see, youve got a lot of charisma
Yea that would be fun one day for sure!
Great content as always! May I ask what route this was? Looks totally fun
10:11 El desafio :)
Great video Ben!! I was wondering how you size your testarossa shoes compared to your regular shoes, thinking about getting a pair.
They stretch a lot... so I size by going to the shop and trying out :)))
As always, premium content :)
Thanks for always commenting on my vids dude! :D
I like how you watched your German friend cruise through it with the heel hook/scum beta, then didn't use any of it. Lol
Hola Ben!! Congratulations on the effort award. How much time open 3 fingers hold? Thanks for the content, really appreciated!
Hey thank you a lot! I was doing 3 Open the same as 4 half crimp for 15s in the beginning
Absolutely love the humour. 😄
Just awesome
Llíber, amazing climbing Area!
Hey Ben! You got my 5 bucks, love your content! Question for you, whats the reasoning behind getting your tendons stronger before your muscles? And how does 15 seconds do that over 7 or 10?
Thanks a lot! The reason is injury prevention and balance... Muscles get stronger faster than connective tissues can handle especially in early stages.
I'll switch to 10s in the next episode :) and 7s later
look at “stress shielding” concept for tendons, where healthy aligned fibers take the load, and then relax, making unaligned fibers load
@@HardIsEasy thanks for response! How long do you rest for in between hangs? Also, I’m really impressed with your body composition changes in 9 weeks. Very very motivating for me to keep going. Did you up your food intake or change how you eat or has that been all the same?
@@flealr92 thank you I will read this!
@@Schyluer I always eat as much as I want, but I'm on mostly whole food vegan diet so can't eat to much of that anyway:)))
Rests for me were around 3-4mins depending on the exercise.
Just reached 8a this year with just climbing so yeah definitely possible! I know that going for harder climbs is going to require more "power" / physical abilities, and I feel like I could reach it by just climbing but it would be much more efficient and quicker to add some proper training in the mix. So I am very curious about the next episode to see your journey through it all! Thanks for making this series of videos, I really appreciate and enjoy them!
Yeaaa I felt the same that I could get better by just climbing, but it was hard to target my weaknesses... that training can adres
Also going for 8a currently, and I feel like unless its a very technical/endurance based and not strength dependent route, I have 0 chance. And yea, I am too lazy to train endurance and too hasty and unexperiemced to execute a technical 8a, so strength training it is.
Gorwee, 8a with just outdoor climbing or do you train indoors on a Moonboard for example? The reason I ask is that form of "climbing" made my finger, pulling and core strength increase dramatically
In how many years? i reached the 8a in 3 only with training
@@khakicam5400 hi, i climb also indoors. It's not a commercial gym, it's a small 11m high wall where me and my friends set routes up to 7b, and a small bouldering area (more like a spray wall), no moonboard or fancy setting ;) On average during the whole year, i climb 3 to 4 times a week and 1/3 to 1/2 of it is outdoors. I feel like i rely a lot on technique and tactics for my hard climbs and I build the strenght needed specifically by climbing on the route itself.
Awesome content as always Ben,
Can you please share the name for the pinch/crimp block you were using. I'd love to buy one.
The pinch block is most probably from Lattice.
@@leoingson I just looked it up. It seems to be an old model that they no longer sell. (They now have a metal one called "Quad")
I'll just have to look for something similar made by someone else.
Thanks! And yea it's Lattice pinch block
Training never hurts!
Crazy to think when the climber was talking to the cameraman at 12:31-12:37, the cameraman is actually just hanging there doing his own thing to get the shot lol theres a lot that goes into these productions
Great video! Where is this in Spain and whats the name of the route?
For future, formatting your SD cards (or any other drives) doesn't necessarily delete all the data. The main thing deleted during formatting are the master files, which is basically an address book to where different bits of your data is stored on the drive, because nothing is ever stored sequentially. If you only lost the master files, it's very likely you can go back and recover them using software that runs certain algorithms to restore the master files and thus, your data.
However, when you format your data, if you rewrite every single block on a drive... then you're SOL.
If you still have the SD cards, it's entirely possible that the data is recoverable. If you began rewriting over your cards (such as by saving new data on to it, whether by moving files or recording video), some data could still be recoverable depending on what blocks on the drive were not rewritten.
Yeap, I tried to recover the data, but seemed the way Camera does format - made nothing recoverable;) Thanks tho;)
I think that the place where you will feel the progress is in a overhang rute. I mean, in a slab if you have the thenic you wont be doing pull ups, or hang off a good crimp
True... but it's also a long journey and I'm about to go on some super steep projects ... so that's gonna come out later on a series
Nice serie of videos! Could you please make a nutrition for climbing guide / serie ?
Nutrition is a complex topic with many different opinions, but I might share my way at some point in the future
@@HardIsEasy nice 😊 thanks
Good stuff
Which grip training block are you using? I should start doing this to get stronger on pinches as well.
Ben what's the name of the crag? I'm from Italy and went to Spain to climb a couple of times, it looks like a crag in the area of Valencia
Anna too. wow. I like this series
The Lasportiva Testarossas look so dope
Hey great video! I have a dumb question though: I've climbed outdoors only 4-5 times, but everytime, if i attempt a hard route (for my level) i struggle placing my gears on the route. When i see how hard it is for you guys to clip the rope at the (4th i believe?) QuickDraw, how do you place your QuickDraws when you first attempt the route? Are you repelling down from the top maybe?
Sorry for the newbie question but I'm always wondering... 😅
Thanks Bruno. If you can reach the bolt you can place the Quickdraw and hold on it (on the sling) with one hand and Clip the rope with other hand, this is often done when placing QDs to the route.
You can also use StickClip to place the next QuickDraw and check the moves on Top Rope in case you can't do the moves at all :)
You can use stronger Climbing partners :D
@@HardIsEasy thanks for the super quick reply! I actually just (re-)watched your QuickDraw masterclass, and the part about the "panick QuickDraw" ! :)
Thanks so much for all your videos by the way, they are unbelievably helpful for beginners like me, best YT channel on climbing IMHO!
What is the hold/board you were using for the 3-finger drag? The small wooden block with the weight hanging?
I'm 46 and training explosive moves, contact strength, and holding tension just so I can get to a solid 6C - "Just Climbing" just doesn't address Points Of Improvement in an intentional and direct manner.
Where is your friend's sick E9 T-shirt from? (Minute 17:30) I can't find it anywhere.
Can I ask why you don't use your thumbs during the hanging? Are you climbing without them? It is the strongest finger on your hand. If you put it from the bottom (not break it, just put it there) or on the edge of the hang board it will help you to stabilize your body. Anyway I love your content, keep up 🙂.
19:30 - Oh I understand your frustration my friend
What route is this? In what sector? Looks great.
haha love the humor in this
Hello, I was wondering where you got the block with which you trained the open side 3 and the pinch
Random question: do you travel to Tenerife by boat from mainland Spain? Or was that an inter-island ferry at the end?
Huelva, Spain -> Tenerife. 2 days boat...
Leaving a comment to help the algorithm :)
Replying for the same reason :) But Also thanks :D
This was huge motivation to climb pretty! Why do physical training when there's more gains in technique?
We’re you climbing onto of your conditioning/ fingerboard days? Or is that all you did?
I thought like your beta for 8a was sometimes like 8a+ (many powerfull moves without good legs position), and the lady made it a bit more like 7c+ with these heel hooks and going more to the right with her body. And your ending which you've changed I guess was a part of some other 7a route ;)
Nevertheless, I love to see your progress and the training process. Waiting for more videos ! :)
23:47 I just felt this moment
my face after spending weeks to improve on a 7b, then a 12 year old comes and does it for warm up skipping holds
I wish we had that kind of weather - but alas Northern England ;-)
I'm wondering if your finger tweak wasn't caused so much because of your pinch training, but rather due to your hangboarding training (where you went quite a lot to failure). A hangboard failure (in my experience) often starts with a slip of the pinkie, causing the ring finger to take on extra load. Maybe the pinch training was the straw that broke the camel's back.
My tweak had no effect on pinch or half crimp grips so probably those are not the cause as well
Puts down the ice cream
Well done 8a is huge
Thanks a lot Jean