The Meguiars will handle 1200 grit scratches quite easily in my experience, even by hand. I've been using it for some time now and I really rate it, cheap, easy to use and it smells delicious! My only recommendation would be to buy a swirl removing polish if you want it to be completely perfect, but for 99% of applications it performs admirably. Great video mate, keep em coming!
Hey Brad. I know this is a really old video but wanted to say thanks for doing the comparison. I'm working on my 1st guitar build so bought some of the Meguiers #105 & #205 to try out on an old body after wet sanding to 2500. Really pleased with the results. The combination of the 2 compounds gives a really nice high shine that is at least as good as the original finish, even in my inexperienced hands. The kit I'm building is a cheap one so the paint is not top notch but if I can get the same kind of finish on that then I'll be properly chuffed. Thanks man!
Turtle wax is actually a pretty good brand. I use it on my car now and then. I haven't tried their scratch remover though because I sand to a high enough grit that I generally don't seem to need one.
Sorry for not being clear. Sanding it smooth puts very fine scratches in it from the abrasive on the paper. You use even finer paper to sand out those scratches (and put in even finer scratches). Then, when you've gotten to the finest paper and sanded out all of the tiny scratches (which you probably can't see) from the previous grits, you polish out those finest scratches. That's why polishing is easier if you have higher grit paper to finish with.
Paint will be less likely to chip off with a high grit paper than a low grit. You would be better off to go straight to 2000 if you're worried about sanding through. It might be hard to buff out 1000 grit scratches. You can do more than one pass of the polish as well.
Yes, higher grits remove less material and make smaller (finer) scratches. You use lower grits to flatten out orange peel and dust marks, and higher grits to remove the scratches from the lower grits. 2000 should be good, but it's not about the fact that it's a controller. It's about what size scratches your compound can remove.
Thank you for the information. I was skeptical about recommending this to people as a polishing solution of reasonable quality, but your input has helped to alleviate that. Thank you for your feedback.
Are you sanding after your last coat of clear before you start using compound? If so, what grit are you sanding to? What clear coat? You may just need to do more passes with your compound and polish, but it's difficult to know for sure. What compound and polish are you using?
I see. Allow me to make a suggestion then. After that last coat that you do, let it cure for a day or two and then sand it again (start with 1000 or 1500 grit and work your way up to as smooth as you can get. Like I said in the video, I went to 5000 grit here). Polish several times with the 3M rubbing compound (maybe 3?). It should be pretty close to a mirror finish before you move on to your final polish.
Hey brad, just wondering if I'm able to polish a nitrocellulose lacquer clear coat with the meguiars ultimate compound. I think you said you were going to try them all on lacquer at the end of the video but I just want to make sure before I do it! Thanks!
I still use them frequently. Honestly though; there are many good options out there. If I had added the Maguire’s polish after the compound and maybe some scratch x it would have come out similar. Mohawk also has their polish kit which works well.
Have you tried the whole 3M Perfect-it 3-2-1 system? Its the line I've been using (as recommended by a detailer pro in the area) and it works Fairly well. I think the Yellow bottle (A) is another line of products. I've been trying to learn how to use it and its a bit more complex, They prefer 3 different pads to match the 3 different compounds, I've subbed in the Meguiars DA Microfiber for the first step, but it does produce an almost perfect mirror finish. I'm just not skilled with it yet, hopefully this next project sharpens my technique.
+Nicholas Miller I used that system on my car at one point while I was doing some work at a body shop. I like it. I was also using a bigger polisher at the time. Often for the three pad system people start with a wool one to speed things up. I'm a bit wary particularly of telling people to do that because it can burn through the paint so much faster if you don't know what you're doing. It is a very professional way of doing it though, and produces great results.
Granted it. Seems like its meant for a 7" buffer and full car type detail, and I subbed the DA microfiber pad for wool on step 1. It's a goods point that it would eat paint fast, especially with your rpms too high. I think I got lucky having enough clear for this system
I know that it's used fairly frequently with the smaller 3" polishers. Some clear coats are harder than others as well. The wool pads etc. would eat through some of the softer spray can clears very quickly I would think.
Good to know. I'm using duplicolor engine enamel. Pretty hard once cured in an oven, even a bit hard to sand. I slipped with my exacto knife and hit the clear, didn't leave a mark. Hadn't thought about the paint hardness till you mentioned it, I think the engine enamel is pretty up there for durability, no surprise. High heat Header paint would be interesting to try next.
hi brad hope you're well. i've clear coated my guitar and waiting for it to get dry, also ordered "Cutting Compound 250ml T25 Medium Cut High Gloss Polish - Turtle Wax TW31528" and "Cutting Compound 250ml T38 Ultra Fine Cut High Gloss Polish - Turtle Wax TW31566" to finish it of with, what you think about these products? and do i need to use anything else after ultra fine high gloss polish to get that very mirrror like finish or these two will be enough? so you know i will sand it with 1500,3000 and 5000 before polishing
The Meguiars will handle 1200 grit scratches quite easily in my experience, even by hand. I've been using it for some time now and I really rate it, cheap, easy to use and it smells delicious! My only recommendation would be to buy a swirl removing polish if you want it to be completely perfect, but for 99% of applications it performs admirably. Great video mate, keep em coming!
Finally, I can get back to watching your older videos. I fell so behind. 🤷🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦
Seriously, your videos are awesome. I got to repaint an old guitar a friend of mine gave me and it looks awesome thanks to you!
+Alexandre Lacas I'm very glad to hear that you found the videos useful and that your project turned out well. Thanks for watching.
Super helpful your video. Help me to decide which polish compound would be better for my polishing job.
Hey Brad. I know this is a really old video but wanted to say thanks for doing the comparison.
I'm working on my 1st guitar build so bought some of the Meguiers #105 & #205 to try out on an old body after wet sanding to 2500.
Really pleased with the results. The combination of the 2 compounds gives a really nice high shine that is at least as good as the original finish, even in my inexperienced hands.
The kit I'm building is a cheap one so the paint is not top notch but if I can get the same kind of finish on that then I'll be properly chuffed.
Thanks man!
Glad to hear it went well!
Turtle wax is actually a pretty good brand. I use it on my car now and then. I haven't tried their scratch remover though because I sand to a high enough grit that I generally don't seem to need one.
Sorry for not being clear. Sanding it smooth puts very fine scratches in it from the abrasive on the paper. You use even finer paper to sand out those scratches (and put in even finer scratches). Then, when you've gotten to the finest paper and sanded out all of the tiny scratches (which you probably can't see) from the previous grits, you polish out those finest scratches. That's why polishing is easier if you have higher grit paper to finish with.
Paint will be less likely to chip off with a high grit paper than a low grit. You would be better off to go straight to 2000 if you're worried about sanding through. It might be hard to buff out 1000 grit scratches. You can do more than one pass of the polish as well.
Yes, higher grits remove less material and make smaller (finer) scratches. You use lower grits to flatten out orange peel and dust marks, and higher grits to remove the scratches from the lower grits.
2000 should be good, but it's not about the fact that it's a controller. It's about what size scratches your compound can remove.
Thank you for the information. I was skeptical about recommending this to people as a polishing solution of reasonable quality, but your input has helped to alleviate that.
Thank you for your feedback.
That's understandable. I wouldn't want to polish out something lower than that with any brand if I can avoid it.
You're welcome. I hope that it goes well for you.
Are you sanding after your last coat of clear before you start using compound? If so, what grit are you sanding to? What clear coat? You may just need to do more passes with your compound and polish, but it's difficult to know for sure. What compound and polish are you using?
No worries mate, glad I could help
I see. Allow me to make a suggestion then. After that last coat that you do, let it cure for a day or two and then sand it again (start with 1000 or 1500 grit and work your way up to as smooth as you can get. Like I said in the video, I went to 5000 grit here).
Polish several times with the 3M rubbing compound (maybe 3?). It should be pretty close to a mirror finish before you move on to your final polish.
From experiance I can personally tell you that 3m is hands-down the best of all.But at 50 bucks a bottle it breaks the bank.
Hey brad, just wondering if I'm able to polish a nitrocellulose lacquer clear coat with the meguiars ultimate compound. I think you said you were going to try them all on lacquer at the end of the video but I just want to make sure before I do it! Thanks!
Go for it. I've tried it out, and it works fine.
Cool thanks!
You're welcome.
IS IT AVAILABLE IN INDIA (BANGALORE)
Seven years later, has something come out to change your mind or take the place of the 3M or LI?
I still use them frequently. Honestly though; there are many good options out there. If I had added the Maguire’s polish after the compound and maybe some scratch x it would have come out similar. Mohawk also has their polish kit which works well.
Have you tried the whole 3M Perfect-it 3-2-1 system? Its the line I've been using (as recommended by a detailer pro in the area) and it works Fairly well. I think the Yellow bottle (A) is another line of products. I've been trying to learn how to use it and its a bit more complex, They prefer 3 different pads to match the 3 different compounds, I've subbed in the Meguiars DA Microfiber for the first step, but it does produce an almost perfect mirror finish. I'm just not skilled with it yet, hopefully this next project sharpens my technique.
+Nicholas Miller I used that system on my car at one point while I was doing some work at a body shop. I like it. I was also using a bigger polisher at the time. Often for the three pad system people start with a wool one to speed things up. I'm a bit wary particularly of telling people to do that because it can burn through the paint so much faster if you don't know what you're doing. It is a very professional way of doing it though, and produces great results.
Granted it. Seems like its meant for a 7" buffer and full car type detail, and I subbed the DA microfiber pad for wool on step 1. It's a goods point that it would eat paint fast, especially with your rpms too high. I think I got lucky having enough clear for this system
I know that it's used fairly frequently with the smaller 3" polishers. Some clear coats are harder than others as well. The wool pads etc. would eat through some of the softer spray can clears very quickly I would think.
Good to know. I'm using duplicolor engine enamel. Pretty hard once cured in an oven, even a bit hard to sand. I slipped with my exacto knife and hit the clear, didn't leave a mark. Hadn't thought about the paint hardness till you mentioned it, I think the engine enamel is pretty up there for durability, no surprise. High heat Header paint would be interesting to try next.
sr. what kind.of compound for.ag guitar project for glossy shine
Any of the ones in this video except the finishing wax.
hi brad hope you're well. i've clear coated my guitar and waiting for it to get dry, also ordered "Cutting Compound 250ml T25 Medium Cut High Gloss Polish - Turtle Wax TW31528" and "Cutting Compound 250ml T38 Ultra Fine Cut High Gloss Polish - Turtle Wax TW31566" to finish it of with, what you think about these products? and do i need to use anything else after ultra fine high gloss polish to get that very mirrror like finish or these two will be enough?
so you know i will sand it with 1500,3000 and 5000 before polishing
I haven’t used those products specifically, but I would think they should work quite well.
thanks dude!
You’re welcome.
Minwax is not a rubbing compound I believe, turtle wax is
Hi Brad, have you ever used Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze? I wonder if it's better than Ultimate Compound, best regards
Unfortunately I haven't had the opportunity to try that product. If you give it a try and it works well please let me know.
Wrocknaz those 2 productos are completly diferent on what they do,,,,UC corrects paints....#7 is a glaze used when the paint is already polished!!!
that's some shinny orange peel......lol
Haha yeah, pretty much.