As someone who's used the spraymax 2k clears a few times, that stuff works GOOD. Best clear from a can, period. You can dig your fingernails into it after it cures and it doesn't come close to leaving a mark.
@@BradAngove would you recommend 1 or 2 cans for a tele body? I’m planning on making a two tone wood thinline tele, painting the ash top with duplicllor and leaving the back natural mahogany. Then adding the clear coat to the whole thing.
Great knowledge base and solid DIY process for guitar body painting. Consequently you are only person that I know follow up and answer to the patrons questions. Thanks for all you do!
Brad, I’ve been watching your videos over the last month trying to figure out to refinish an old Squier Jazz Bass. After sanding the body down with 400 grit I think? I decided on using a combination of Duplicate-Color Gray perfect match filler primer and Dupli-Color Olympic White. I actually purchased the Dupli-Color clear coat but after watching some other videos with people raving about the SprayMax 2K Clear coat I decided to order a can of that instead. Wow am happy I did! It did end up with a pretty noticeable orange peel that I had to do more research on how to fix. I ended up wet sanding the whole body with 1500, 2000, then 3000 sand paper and finally polishing the whole thing with polishing compound. I know I messed up probably a lot because I’m very new to all of this but this combination of products is a total winner and my finished product looks amazing despite my green thumbs! I’ve never commented on a RUclips video but after seeing that you made a video with the sameish combo of stuff I used I just had to let you know! You were my guide in this refinishing process so I just wanted to say thanks for all the tips and information on how to finish things so well on a budget! Stay Safe!
Duplicolor acrylic lacquer spray is an excellent substitute for nitrocelulose lacquer. Yes, it takes a while to cure. I let it cure for about a month before I sand and buff, but the resulting finish is beautiful.
If you're willing to spend a little more than what a can of Duplicolor costs, automotive paint suppliers can often mix a proper 1k urethane base coat into a spray can for you. Sherwin Williams will do it if you go to one of their automotive specialty stores. 66 Auto Paint in Missouri sells online and does Pantone color matching, they can create just about any shade of any color you could possibly think of. I wanted to do a lavender finish but could only find that color in cheap hardware store enamels. I found a shade I liked on the Pantone color chart and they mixed a perfect urethane color match for me. No affiliation with them, but very happy with how the project turned out.
I've learned if I want to get a finish as nice as what you're doing, Just do EXACTLY what you do. I've taken some short cuts that screwed up a few guitars along the way. I'm finishing an alder Tele with wipe on poly. Did it your way. Looks great . Go figure. Love the channel. Be safe . Be well. Aloha
The POacifica I did with Wipe On Poly came out nice. I used satin finish and its a smooth as a babys bum....the only issue is the crappy body wood and endgrain, but that's to be expected with a painted guitar. If you knew you were painting a guitar, you wouldn't buy the best _looking_ wood to do it.
Much, much better vid than the previous Red Peril job. And I really enough your video style, great info with the Lack of heavy metal background music and/or attempts at standup comedy. You've inspired me to mod and paint a Strat I have here in Alberta.
Thanks Kevin. I had said quite a while back that I wouldn't, but I suppose it might come up at some point. The thought of spraying a coating of rubber on your guitar never really sat well with me. I suppose it's nice to have a paint job you can peel off if you don't like it, but you can always just sand back and respray a normal paint job anyway, so I'm not sure I get the appeal.
I've noticed that good painters look almost machine like as they go back and forth and overlapping and maintaining the same distance from spray gun (or paint can) to the guitar body...
I love this page. This is my go to page for my need to know for any pathing guitar building and painting. 🇨🇦Thanks for all your help throughout the years Brad !
Hi Brad / long time follower here and love your work... in fact your videos gave me enough confidence to basically build a strat from a piece a junk. So let me share my experience ... After one year of work 🙂 I primed the body, sanded it nicely (as strange as it may sound I love sanding, it’s soothing) and gave 3 coats of synthetic enamel as colour. That was possibly the fatal flow but let me continue... enamel was the only product I found which I could have the colour made exactly to my shade of seafoam. It turned out gorgeous. I left it to cure for two months as i was quite worried about the next step and finally sprayed it with non catalysed poly as i believed that 2K could be too aggressive on the enamel. ... so I gave some nice coats, turned out fantastic, polished with wet sanding up to 2500 then macguire compound, all by hand. It looked amazing, factory finish seriously. After 2-3 weeks the poly started to crackle, very fine lines which got worse for another 3-4 weeks and finally stopped. I have a beautiful vintage looking poly finish now 😜, which of course i was not expecting. This is my experience and I would love to have your opinin on what happend... and what kind of paint is duplicolour to withstand 2K as clear - infos are not so clear to me! Anyways, I will start building another in no time! Keep up with the great work! Ciao
Well I’m glad most of the process went well for you. Long story short: enamel doesn’t play well with other paints. If you’re going to use enamel, either use an enamel clear over it, or just go ahead and polish the enamel color itself.
man, you make it look easy. I moved to Cheyenne, WY and not many places around paint guitars. There is a shop in Iowa but they've been hit hard this year. I''ve been contemplating on doing this myself. However, I want a metallic finish instead.
Great video! Really helpful commentary! I was wondering, would you be able to do a video to show how you put together the dolly/ handle that you're using the spin the body while you're spraying it? I can think of how I'd put one together but yours looks really solid and I'd love to know how it's put together/ components etc! Thanks
The key to any spray can job is warming up your paint in warm water before spraying, light coats to avoid paint runnings, and time to dry between different solvent paints.
I know, old video, but thought it may be worth a comment. If you're in the states, certain NAPA auto parts stores have paint centers where you can get custom paint mixed. The one I go to can also mix your paint and put it in a very good quality spray can. They also have the 2-part clears in the very can you are showing in this video. I'm anxious to try duplicating the process you're demonstrating on my next guitar.
Brad. I know you’ve probably covered this a million times. I read all the comments and didn’t seem to find an answer to this question. I am painting over I believe a poly finish on my guitar that has a Seafoam green color. I want to paint it slime green. The plan is to rough it up. Then, paint it with spray max 2K slime green (or the closest Spraymax color I could find). Follow that by spraymax 2K clearcoat. From the comments I’ve read, I am thinking that the slime green spraymax 2k will self level. The plan is to put a couple coats of slime green on. Let that dry for two or three days, and put on the clearcoat. After that, sand the clearcoat with 2000 grit and put polish on there. Please give me input if I’m either missing a step or adding a step. I love your videos.
I don’t think spraymax colors come in 2K. It should be a 1k acrylic. Then you can clear coat with the 2K clear. Your plan sounds fine to me. I don’t think the green will self level a lot, but it will depend on how heavy you spray it.
I used to do a lot of "street art" as a freelancer (and less officially as a kid). I picked up the can flipping from that. I can't hold a spray can for more than about 20 seconds before I flip it. I used to be a habit to keep the metal ball moving through the paint.. It's now just an old habit.
Interesting. I tried using 2k over duplicolor (exactly what you used, except not the same color) and had adhesion issues between the clear and the color. I didn't wait a whole week though (maybe a day or two). I guess I now know what I did wrong.
You may very well have waited too long. Read the TDS (technical data sheet) on the clear you're using. Most colors and clears depend on chemical bonding not mechanical. If you're waiting more than the recommended time then you may need to spray an inter coat clear. The you can sand that like you would your clear then spray your clear.
@@pedraw Thanks, that's a good point. I was comparing what I did with what was demonstrated in the video though. He waits a whole week between the color and the clear, while I used the exact same products but didn't wait as long...
I wait that long because they are completely different paint types and I need to account for compatibility. One coat with an inter coat after the color can assist, but the solvents in the 2K are strong enough to bond to the acrylic after a week, when enough of the solvents in the acrylic are gone to prevent issues.
Brad Angove this is such a great reply for amateur hobbyists like myself. I’d never have even considered all of that and would probably have to give up and switch to something else that I know would work. Thanks, man
Thanks for the info! Just painted the headstock of a Super-Sonic with Graphite Metallic to match the body. Looks very very close to the factory paint job on the body.
I've come to understand, repeatedly, that 220 is the best grit for paint prep. I've been told that 320 is too close to polishing the wood which to a certain degree inhibits good adherence of the paint.
Man I think I'm going to built myself an explorer from a kit... I don't like the pickguards on the Epiphanies and Gibsons. I also can't find a 84 Explorer nowhere used. I've seen some pretty cool Explorer kits on the internet with set or bolt on necks. I think I will go with the bolted one to give it more of an ESP MX 220 feel to it!
Brad, nothing to do. with this video but I don't know how to ask any other way. Router sleds. I can see how a router sled can be used for flattening a piece of wood but can I use one with a template and flush cut router bit to trim around a guitar body/neck (it would save any 'router topple' around the horns etc). I can't see any problem with this but haven't found any videos on it. The question is 'Am I missing something'? It seems like a great way to ensure a nice square router cut. Many thanks, Paj
Any suggestion on how to get rid of the plastic look on guitars? I think spray painted guitars look like cheap plastic. Your videos helped me a lot int he last few months, and i am building my 3rd guitar right know
What look are you aiming for instead? Perhaps consider a lower sheen finish, or even an oil. Modified tung oil has a very rich look to it over a nice wood and looks nothing like plastic.
How long did you wait between painting the teal and the final clearcoat? Also your paint room looks nice. Do you have a video on your room setup? I have been using a heat gun to assist in curing / drying paint on my current maple drum project.
drop dead gorgeous paintjob brad. what if i will use a different brand of acrylic primer and base coat (not dupli) and ill use carpaint urethane clear coat, will it still have the same outcome?
Question about drying time between acrylic lacquer color coats and 2k poly clear coats: Hey, Brad. I'm a luthier of over 10 years and I build bodies and necks from scratch out of my home workshop. I have experience finishing, but only with nitro and acrylic lacquers through a gun. I've used duplicolor for color coats with excellent results, but I tend to stick mostly to woodworking as a subcontractor for larger guitar manufacturing pipelines. I wanted to upgrade to a catalyzed finish as I'm quite impatient when it comes to waiting the full month that you really ought to before leveling out and polishing lacquer. Hopefully getting comfortable with this process will ease up my hesitation to do proper finishes in-between all of the woodworking jobs. Similar to what you've done in this video, I sprayed a neck with amber tinted lacquer to achieve the color depth I'm looking for. This sealed the wood (similar to the primer you used in the video) and also gave me something to apply the headstock decal onto. I then covered the decal with some more lacquer as I wanted to be sure that I had one uniform surface/material I was spraying my 2k poly onto. I'm hesitant to start spraying the poly as I've read that poly-over-lacquer can cause issues. I note that the description of your video mentions waiting for the color coats to 'dry fully', but I don't find any more details about how long one should wait within the video. Could you give me any more insight on problems I might have trying to spray the 2k poly too soon after spraying the lacquer? How long you wait in-between, etc. Thanks for the great content, and I'm looking forward to getting comfortable with this method.
I waited a week before applying the 2K. That has always worked for me. If you apply the poly too soon you risk the solvents in the lacquer trying to evaporate underneath and creating pinholes and delamination.
@@BradAngove Thanks for the tip. Did as you said and got wonderful results on my first try. I got some more of the rattle can stuff for now, but I'm on the lookout for 2k poly in a can that I can mix myself as you do in your video. If you happen to know of any sources that I'll be able to get in the US - I know you're in Canada - and don't mind sharing, I'd be highly grateful. Thanks again for your time and the content
Hi Brad. This project of yours looks fantastic!! I really like the calypso color!! Do you know if the Spraymax 2k Clear Gamour will stick to a gloss Duplicolor Perfect Match paint? Thanks
Hi Bra. I have been using acrylic with pretty good results. I finished my Solo PRS. I just ordered Spraymax 2k. How long do I need to let the acrylic that I used at first set.. After my finish was done it looked so good I want to put the harder finish on it. The acrylic scratched while just putting the pickups in. Also I put tru-oil on the neck,sides and back. Can the 2k be sprayed on the ba over the tru-oil? I am leaving tru-oil on the neck and it leaves a nice smooth finish. Im with you. I always sand my necks smooth. Thanks for the great videos. Mont
Hey Brad! First off i love your videos! They have helped me alot! Im at the moment working on refinishing a guitar and have grainfilled the guitar and ready to paint it. Im a bit unsure if my laquer method Im thinking of will work. I have bought a lacquer that i got recommended for guitar finish(NOT poly though). I wanna do 3-4 layers. Let it cure for a week. Sand with 1000 grit till its flat. 3-4 layers on top of that and then sand with 1000 then 1500 and then 2000. Then polish. I hope this will give me a nice high gloss. What do you think?
Hey Brad.. She's looking great already! I can't wait to see her all done up after you finish every "pro-cess".. anyway, I do have a question: I'm getting ready to spray my Strat body, I have a look in mind but I'm not sure how to achieve it. The best way I can describe it is a blue candy cats eye marble. I'm not sure if I should spray her white first & build up a candy blue or go silver first. Any thoughts,ideas recommendations, advise or even a flat out "dear God NO" would be greatly appreciated.
Can you elaborate on what you mean by marble in this case? Candy blue over white will mostly just look blue. Candy over silver will have some of that metallic show through. That’s usually a better effect.
how much time between the primer coats did you use? And also... after a week did you happen to wear the same shirt between primer and top coat? It really looks like you did this all on the same day... I thought you were waiting a week after primer before color?
I usually give primer a couple days to dry and then sand if there are any issues. There were no issues here, so I may have done primer and color on the same day and then waited a week before spraying my clear. I have a few of the same or similar cheap shirts that I wear for shop work.
@@BradAngove Thanks for the reply. I have been messing around with guitar pedal boxes and experimenting with primers colors and clear coats. I was ganna say, it looked like it was all done the same day! The Rust Oleum cans do say you can do it all in a day. each coat can go on over the last as long as its within 1 hour... after that you have to wait 2 days... I thought that seemed a little too good to be true. So you wait a week before clear coat? holy crap. Is spray panting supposed to take this kind of wait time?
I wait a week because the clear is a different paint type than the color in this case. I want enough of the solvents to evaporate out to avoid a reaction. You can do some spray paint finishes in a day, but if you’re trying for results that are more like professional paint systems, you need to follow a procedure that is more like those.
Last question... I have been drying rust oleum clear coats for well over a week. Its dry enough to sand gently... but if I take my fingernail and press it into it... it does scratch/dent it.... is that just how it is? I figured this stuff would get super hard
I love your videos and your channel! but maybe you should start staring at your lavalier microphone a little lower, because if you put it like this around the collar of your t-shirts, it will constantly bang against your throat and the resulting sound will always be muffled
Why do the sides always look fantastic and need almost no work to look great! Love that colour and the sparkle is just right. I've only ever sprayed once with 2k paint when I painted my Gpz900r black in 1991 and it was great to use. 99% of the time I use nitro on a guitar as I dont like the sticky heavy feel of poly. Good job tho brother..
I think it's because the sides just get a slightly heavier coat, and it's always nice and even. They never get hit with the edges of the spray patterns where the paint doesn't atomize as well.
I just used this exact paint the perfect match on a pc case and the texture of the paint came out like sand paper? Is that normal Or should i wet sand it before I use the 2k clear coat?
Brad, love your videos! I do have a question though. I want to do a finish to a kit that I want to do and I will try to get a screen shot that I did. Here it is..
Just to clarify, how much time was between each coat? I know you said in the beginning but some of the edits made it seem like you did one after the other.
Another great looking guitar in the process. Have you ever done an Eerie Dess paint style? Or would you be willing to give it a shot in one of your future videos?
Do you mean iridescent? I've done a few, but not necessarily on the channel. I have one coming up that is somewhat iridescent, and intend on doing a few more as time progresses.
@@BradAngove Sort of like that. Here is a video of the style I'm talking about. Hope it's ok to post this here on your site. ruclips.net/video/sAqA05FeZOQ/видео.html I've only found one guy try this on RUclips, but it was very amateur and I don't think he even finished it. Was hoping you could give it a shot for an upcoming video. Thanks.
I make guitars and I need to build/buy a booth. Yours looks interesting. Do you have a video where you talk about it or can share the make and model? Also I did not catch how long you waited between color coats and between clear coats. Cheers - Andrew
10-15 minutes between coats generally. I’m not sure where the boss picked up the booth, but I’ll take a look at the brand next time I’m in the shop. I know you can get similar ones through coast airbrush and probably Eastwood auto.
Ahh, I think this video answered my question a previous point. You apply clear coat > sand (i.e. 1500 - 4000 grit), then polish out. Right? Think I got it... haha
Ahoy, I recently did a swirl-dip paint job and used SprayMax 2k which did a great job... but for whatever reason, I then decided to scour the end finish with 3000 grit before buffing it out with polish. This left it with a sort of satin finish when I wanted high gloss to help enhance the colour pop! Is it possible to lay another coat or 2 of SprayMax 2k, or will the polish I used repel the clear coat? If that is the case, is there a way to prep it without ruining the cool swirl paint below? Thanks in advance!!
Wipe on a auto body degreaser such as PPG DX-330 or similar product.Then without letting the degreaser dry, wipe with a dry rag or it will leave a film. This will stop any fish eyeing and is common practice in body shops before primer, color, and clear.
Brad, at 13:20 you say that if you wanna bury a vinyl (which I do), you should do 3 coats - lightly sand with 800 - do 3 coats again. I want to avoid sanding through the first round of clear coat before applying the second. Anything to particularly take into account when doing that step?
You really just need to sand lightly so that the next coats can stick. You don’t need to level sand at that stage. Just be gentle. 800 doesn’t eat through paint very quickly.
As someone who's used the spraymax 2k clears a few times, that stuff works GOOD. Best clear from a can, period. You can dig your fingernails into it after it cures and it doesn't come close to leaving a mark.
Any experience with the Duplicolor cans of clear?
@@minkorrh Yes -- I can pick chunks out of it w my fingernail. Starting to think I didn't let something cure long enough.
How long does it take to cure?
@jaloejuice 24 hours for most purposes
@@BradAngove would you recommend 1 or 2 cans for a tele body? I’m planning on making a two tone wood thinline tele, painting the ash top with duplicllor and leaving the back natural mahogany. Then adding the clear coat to the whole thing.
Great knowledge base and solid DIY process for guitar body painting. Consequently you are only person that I know follow up and answer to the patrons questions. Thanks for all you do!
Thanks John
Brad, I’ve been watching your videos over the last month trying to figure out to refinish an old Squier Jazz Bass. After sanding the body down with 400 grit I think? I decided on using a combination of Duplicate-Color Gray perfect match filler primer and Dupli-Color Olympic White. I actually purchased the Dupli-Color clear coat but after watching some other videos with people raving about the SprayMax 2K Clear coat I decided to order a can of that instead. Wow am happy I did! It did end up with a pretty noticeable orange peel that I had to do more research on how to fix. I ended up wet sanding the whole body with 1500, 2000, then 3000 sand paper and finally polishing the whole thing with polishing compound. I know I messed up probably a lot because I’m very new to all of this but this combination of products is a total winner and my finished product looks amazing despite my green thumbs! I’ve never commented on a RUclips video but after seeing that you made a video with the sameish combo of stuff I used I just had to let you know! You were my guide in this refinishing process so I just wanted to say thanks for all the tips and information on how to finish things so well on a budget! Stay Safe!
Hey Andy, I’m glad to hear your finish turned out the way you wanted!
Question...were you putting the color coat on immediately ...within minutes...of spraying the primer?....any grain filler.
Duplicolor acrylic lacquer spray is an excellent substitute for nitrocelulose lacquer. Yes, it takes a while to cure. I let it cure for about a month before I sand and buff, but the resulting finish is beautiful.
It has very different properties than nitro, but it can definitely give a beautiful finish.
But one similarity is a new coat burns into the previous one like nitro does. Fender custom colors in the 60s were all acrylic lacquers too.
If you're willing to spend a little more than what a can of Duplicolor costs, automotive paint suppliers can often mix a proper 1k urethane base coat into a spray can for you. Sherwin Williams will do it if you go to one of their automotive specialty stores. 66 Auto Paint in Missouri sells online and does Pantone color matching, they can create just about any shade of any color you could possibly think of. I wanted to do a lavender finish but could only find that color in cheap hardware store enamels. I found a shade I liked on the Pantone color chart and they mixed a perfect urethane color match for me. No affiliation with them, but very happy with how the project turned out.
I've learned if I want to get a finish as nice as what you're doing, Just do EXACTLY what you do. I've taken some short cuts that screwed up a few guitars along the way. I'm finishing an alder Tele with wipe on poly. Did it your way. Looks great . Go figure. Love the channel. Be safe . Be well. Aloha
Glad it worked out for you!
The POacifica I did with Wipe On Poly came out nice. I used satin finish and its a smooth as a babys bum....the only issue is the crappy body wood and endgrain, but that's to be expected with a painted guitar. If you knew you were painting a guitar, you wouldn't buy the best _looking_ wood to do it.
Looks like the same Calypso they used on some of the Fox body Mustangs. Looks great on both the car and guitar!
I was pretty pleased to find this color actually. Haven't seen it on the shelf before.
Wasn't that Cayman Green on those early 90's?
At first I didn't think that I would like that color but the more I look at it, it's very nice. Rather original Calypso Blue., tres cool
Thanks Sam.
@@BradAngove does it needs to sand the color before clear coat? If yes 600 or 1200?
I don’t sand metallics before clear coating.
Much, much better vid than the previous Red Peril job. And I really enough your video style, great info with the Lack of heavy metal background music and/or attempts at standup comedy. You've inspired me to mod and paint a Strat I have here in Alberta.
Thanks. I hope it goes well for you.
That guitar is going to look great. Looking forward to part two. Would you ever do a Plasti-Dip spray guitar finish tutorial?
Thanks Kevin. I had said quite a while back that I wouldn't, but I suppose it might come up at some point. The thought of spraying a coating of rubber on your guitar never really sat well with me. I suppose it's nice to have a paint job you can peel off if you don't like it, but you can always just sand back and respray a normal paint job anyway, so I'm not sure I get the appeal.
Plasti-dip, while it looks amazing, is extremely sticky against skin and not pleasing to feel on a guitar.
Thank you for mentioning us! we actually have a Store in the US now and we do ship to Canada! 😎
Excellent
I've noticed that good painters look almost machine like as they go back and forth and overlapping and maintaining the same distance from spray gun (or paint can) to the guitar body...
The really good ones get a lot of practice I would think. Probably daily.
I love this page. This is my go to page for my need to know for any pathing guitar building and painting. 🇨🇦Thanks for all your help throughout the years Brad !
Cheers!
I've been using Eastwood 2K matte clear on my last few projects and I love the durability and look of it plus it cures and hardens really fast
Glad to hear it
I'm picking up guitar for a refin tomorrow
Finally
I can watch your painting tutorials and put them into practice
That’s exciting
I like how you sanded down hip-carve to your standards !! I am currently in process of my own design and i did the same thing. very kool !!!
Thanks. I’m glad you like it.
Hi Brad / long time follower here and love your work... in fact your videos gave me enough confidence to basically build a strat from a piece a junk. So let me share my experience ... After one year of work 🙂 I primed the body, sanded it nicely (as strange as it may sound I love sanding, it’s soothing) and gave 3 coats of synthetic enamel as colour. That was possibly the fatal flow but let me continue... enamel was the only product I found which I could have the colour made exactly to my shade of seafoam. It turned out gorgeous. I left it to cure for two months as i was quite worried about the next step and finally sprayed it with non catalysed poly as i believed that 2K could be too aggressive on the enamel. ... so I gave some nice coats, turned out fantastic, polished with wet sanding up to 2500 then macguire compound, all by hand. It looked amazing, factory finish seriously. After 2-3 weeks the poly started to crackle, very fine lines which got worse for another 3-4 weeks and finally stopped. I have a beautiful vintage looking poly finish now 😜, which of course i was not expecting. This is my experience and I would love to have your opinin on what happend... and what kind of paint is duplicolour to withstand 2K as clear - infos are not so clear to me! Anyways, I will start building another in no time! Keep up with the great work! Ciao
Well I’m glad most of the process went well for you. Long story short: enamel doesn’t play well with other paints. If you’re going to use enamel, either use an enamel clear over it, or just go ahead and polish the enamel color itself.
@@BradAngove thanks Brad! You are great man!
@@BradAngove thanks Brad! You are great man!
Cheers Dario
I bought a different blue Bahama blue like the old novas and it loooks sooooo good
Excellent
Ha, I had done this same thing with the same paint back in 94' it held up very well over the years. Cool video.
Thank you
Colour choice looks like it will be a winner.
Glad you like it.
Thank you! Buying a solo guitar kit soon and I'd use your tutorial
man, you make it look easy. I moved to Cheyenne, WY and not many places around paint guitars. There is a shop in Iowa but they've been hit hard this year. I''ve been contemplating on doing this myself. However, I want a metallic finish instead.
Great video! Really helpful commentary! I was wondering, would you be able to do a video to show how you put together the dolly/ handle that you're using the spin the body while you're spraying it? I can think of how I'd put one together but yours looks really solid and I'd love to know how it's put together/ components etc! Thanks
I have this old video on it:ruclips.net/video/skY2YWQVJoE/видео.html
I'm in Canada too. Thanks pointing me to the 2K in a can I can get here, so I'm not cleaning my gun for smaller jobs!
Glad I could help
Spray cans have come a long way. Excellent job 👍
Thanks. I'm taking my Jeep TJ in to be painted this colour.
That should be interesting.
The key to any spray can job is warming up your paint in warm water before spraying, light coats to avoid paint runnings, and time to dry between different solvent paints.
I know, old video, but thought it may be worth a comment. If you're in the states, certain NAPA auto parts stores have paint centers where you can get custom paint mixed. The one I go to can also mix your paint and put it in a very good quality spray can. They also have the 2-part clears in the very can you are showing in this video. I'm anxious to try duplicating the process you're demonstrating on my next guitar.
That’s a great tip. Many paint stores can do that and it’s very helpful.
Great job Brad. I actually did a telecaster in that same color and it came out great. Keep up the good work!
Glad to hear yours turned out well.
Well now I'm ready for sanding! I have a bass guitar I'm about to try to tackle. Thanks for all these tutorials!
I hope it goes well
great job. I´m on the task of painting one of my guitars in glossy black with a mirror pickguard. you vids takes me to the right path.
Sounds like a fun project. I hope it goes well.
Brad. I know you’ve probably covered this a million times. I read all the comments and didn’t seem to find an answer to this question. I am painting over I believe a poly finish on my guitar that has a Seafoam green color. I want to paint it slime green. The plan is to rough it up. Then, paint it with spray max 2K slime green (or the closest Spraymax color I could find). Follow that by spraymax 2K clearcoat. From the comments I’ve read, I am thinking that the slime green spraymax 2k will self level. The plan is to put a couple coats of slime green on. Let that dry for two or three days, and put on the clearcoat. After that, sand the clearcoat with 2000 grit and put polish on there. Please give me input if I’m either missing a step or adding a step. I love your videos.
I don’t think spraymax colors come in 2K. It should be a 1k acrylic. Then you can clear coat with the 2K clear.
Your plan sounds fine to me. I don’t think the green will self level a lot, but it will depend on how heavy you spray it.
When you flip spray cans, it's obviously not because you're showing off but a sign of how much you must be around them things
It’s an old habit. I honestly don’t even think about it anymore because I used to do it so much haha.
I used to do a lot of "street art" as a freelancer (and less officially as a kid). I picked up the can flipping from that. I can't hold a spray can for more than about 20 seconds before I flip it. I used to be a habit to keep the metal ball moving through the paint.. It's now just an old habit.
Part 2 not ready yet? looking forward to it
Soon haha.
Love the color and your videos. I have the same color .lol I use the clear coat cans on my touch up auto paint repair
Great colour!!!!
Thanks Don
Closing in on 100K subscribers. Thanks for your vids, they're pretty informative and helpful.
Thank you. That's what I'm trying for.
Very cool. Didn't know you were still doing this. Very cool. Thanks man..
Amazing how you keep your paint and clear coat from running,,,, I can never seem to get the distance right,,, LOL Great vid Brad,, thank you...
Getting the balance right between speed and distance comes with some practice. You will get the hang of it.
This looks great!
Can't wait for part 2.
Thanks Martin!
Question:
Why do you do two normal coats on this one, rather than the usual
Tack coat
Wait 10 mins
Regular coat
Wait 10 mins
Regular coat ?
Looks awesome!!! Love how consistently you were spraying
Thank you. I'm glad you like it.
That's a pretty cool color, actually. Is it metallic? Can't wait to see it finished!
Yes, it's one of their metallic/pearl colors.
I had a Kramer Focus that color in 1986 :-)
If you dont add as much reducer in your clear you’ll get less shrinkage and less chance of running as you build up the clear coats.
Interesting. I tried using 2k over duplicolor (exactly what you used, except not the same color) and had adhesion issues between the clear and the color. I didn't wait a whole week though (maybe a day or two). I guess I now know what I did wrong.
You may very well have waited too long. Read the TDS (technical data sheet) on the clear you're using. Most colors and clears depend on chemical bonding not mechanical. If you're waiting more than the recommended time then you may need to spray an inter coat clear. The you can sand that like you would your clear then spray your clear.
@@pedraw Thanks, that's a good point. I was comparing what I did with what was demonstrated in the video though. He waits a whole week between the color and the clear, while I used the exact same products but didn't wait as long...
I wait that long because they are completely different paint types and I need to account for compatibility. One coat with an inter coat after the color can assist, but the solvents in the 2K are strong enough to bond to the acrylic after a week, when enough of the solvents in the acrylic are gone to prevent issues.
@@BradAngove Thanks for the info once again.
Brad Angove this is such a great reply for amateur hobbyists like myself. I’d never have even considered all of that and would probably have to give up and switch to something else that I know would work. Thanks, man
Man, you should make a video about swirl dipped finish using Magic Marble. There are no instructional videos on this.
I am going to use this technique for my cement items. thanks
Hi Brad! Using duplicolor primer sanding FILLER would I still need a grain filler on a mahogany body?
Oh mahogany I would still recommend a filler.
Thanks, this is why your channel is so loved.
Thanks for the help mate. I’m about to spray a body with nitro. I’ve sprayed quite a lot of things but I’m not that good at it
It all comes with practice my friend.
Thanks for the info! Just painted the headstock of a Super-Sonic with Graphite Metallic to match the body. Looks very very close to the factory paint job on the body.
Nice!
I do automotive spot work sometimes and I think just using auto clear coat should be more than fine.
It is
That is one awesome finish brother!!! 🙌🏻🎸
Wow luv that color Brad, caunt wait to see it when its all done mate, great job Cheers
Thank you.
Dude, you’re awesome. Thanks for the vids, great knowledge. We are stunt doubles by the way!
Stunt doubles? Nice. Which one of us does the stunts?
I've come to understand, repeatedly, that 220 is the best grit for paint prep. I've been told that 320 is too close to polishing the wood which to a certain degree inhibits good adherence of the paint.
You made this look so easy, I'm intrigued to try it
I hope it goes well for you
Man I think I'm going to built myself an explorer from a kit... I don't like the pickguards on the Epiphanies and Gibsons. I also can't find a 84 Explorer nowhere used. I've seen some pretty cool Explorer kits on the internet with set or bolt on necks. I think I will go with the bolted one to give it more of an ESP MX 220 feel to it!
Dude i put my lacquer cans in hot water for 5min before i use them and atomazation is super fine. I use dupli-color transparent. Thats my PRO-cess
Ya, I've done a video on that trick. It helps expand the propellant. Good call.
Nice work man...! gonna use your method... Cheers...!
I hope it goes well for you.
@@BradAngove Thank you...!
Brad, nothing to do. with this video but I don't know how to ask any other way. Router sleds. I can see how a router sled can be used for flattening a piece of wood but can I use one with a template and flush cut router bit to trim around a guitar body/neck (it would save any 'router topple' around the horns etc). I can't see any problem with this but haven't found any videos on it. The question is 'Am I missing something'? It seems like a great way to ensure a nice square router cut.
Many thanks,
Paj
I suppose you could if it were set up wide enough. Nobody does that though because the simple option is just to use (or make) a router table usually.
@@BradAngove Thanks Brad. I got it up and running yesterday. Works a treat. Trying to avoid a router table, not sure why.
Great video. I learn something new every time. Real excited on how the planets are going to look on that greenish color.😂😂
That's the oceanic background. This one gets some spray art coral and fish...
Any suggestion on how to get rid of the plastic look on guitars? I think spray painted guitars look like cheap plastic. Your videos helped me a lot int he last few months, and i am building my 3rd guitar right know
What look are you aiming for instead? Perhaps consider a lower sheen finish, or even an oil. Modified tung oil has a very rich look to it over a nice wood and looks nothing like plastic.
as always.. i love your work Brad.
Thank you
How long did you wait between painting the teal and the final clearcoat? Also your paint room looks nice. Do you have a video on your room setup? I have been using a heat gun to assist in curing / drying paint on my current maple drum project.
I waited a week. No video on the room setup but that’s an interesting idea. It’s really just this booth and then a shelf of paint related junk haha.
Very nice colour choice
Thanks Hollie
drop dead gorgeous paintjob brad.
what if i will use a different brand of acrylic primer and base coat (not dupli) and ill use carpaint urethane clear coat, will it still have the same outcome?
Question about drying time between acrylic lacquer color coats and 2k poly clear coats:
Hey, Brad. I'm a luthier of over 10 years and I build bodies and necks from scratch out of my home workshop. I have experience finishing, but only with nitro and acrylic lacquers through a gun. I've used duplicolor for color coats with excellent results, but I tend to stick mostly to woodworking as a subcontractor for larger guitar manufacturing pipelines. I wanted to upgrade to a catalyzed finish as I'm quite impatient when it comes to waiting the full month that you really ought to before leveling out and polishing lacquer. Hopefully getting comfortable with this process will ease up my hesitation to do proper finishes in-between all of the woodworking jobs.
Similar to what you've done in this video, I sprayed a neck with amber tinted lacquer to achieve the color depth I'm looking for. This sealed the wood (similar to the primer you used in the video) and also gave me something to apply the headstock decal onto. I then covered the decal with some more lacquer as I wanted to be sure that I had one uniform surface/material I was spraying my 2k poly onto. I'm hesitant to start spraying the poly as I've read that poly-over-lacquer can cause issues. I note that the description of your video mentions waiting for the color coats to 'dry fully', but I don't find any more details about how long one should wait within the video. Could you give me any more insight on problems I might have trying to spray the 2k poly too soon after spraying the lacquer? How long you wait in-between, etc.
Thanks for the great content, and I'm looking forward to getting comfortable with this method.
I waited a week before applying the 2K. That has always worked for me. If you apply the poly too soon you risk the solvents in the lacquer trying to evaporate underneath and creating pinholes and delamination.
@@BradAngove Thanks for the tip. Did as you said and got wonderful results on my first try. I got some more of the rattle can stuff for now, but I'm on the lookout for 2k poly in a can that I can mix myself as you do in your video. If you happen to know of any sources that I'll be able to get in the US - I know you're in Canada - and don't mind sharing, I'd be highly grateful.
Thanks again for your time and the content
Eastwood automotive has 2K. The spraymax 2K is available on Amazon as well.
Looks great brad !!
Thank you! Cheers!
Love that color man.
Thanks Ben
Love the color, great video!
Thank you
Thanks for another great video! Any chance you could do one similar in a transparent finish?
There’s a very good chance I will do that!
Hi Brad. This project of yours looks fantastic!! I really like the calypso color!! Do you know if the Spraymax 2k Clear Gamour will stick to a gloss Duplicolor Perfect Match paint?
Thanks
You’ll want to scuff the gloss with some 800 grit to allow the spraymax to adhere properly.
In Canada you can get Spraymax at Napa.
Most duplicolor stuff is lacquer. Some is acrylic enamel.
That was awesome ! !
Awseome vid Brad! Did u sand the primer before paint?
I don't speak for the man but I believe the answer is yes. He always sands the primer before painting to get a better adhesion from the paint
Did I miss this comment somehow? My apologies. Yes; I sand the primer.
Very informative as always. I'm just not setup for 2K though.
That's understandable. Unfortunately, even though it comes in spray cans now, you still need a pretty specific setup to be shooting 2K.
@@BradAngove what kinda setup are you talking about? Maybe a dumb question but I’m pretty new to guitar building
Good ventilation, a quality respirator, and if you’re mixing it, a paint gun and compressor.
Hi Bra. I have been using acrylic with pretty good results. I finished my Solo PRS. I just ordered Spraymax 2k. How long do I need to
let the acrylic that I used at first set.. After my finish was done it looked so good I want to put the harder finish on it. The acrylic scratched while just putting the pickups in. Also I put tru-oil on the neck,sides and back. Can the 2k be sprayed on the ba over the tru-oil? I am leaving tru-oil on the neck and it leaves a nice smooth finish. Im with you. I always sand my necks smooth. Thanks for the great videos. Mont
Dude, you make me want to go to the gym!
Hey Brad! First off i love your videos! They have helped me alot!
Im at the moment working on refinishing a guitar and have grainfilled the guitar and ready to paint it.
Im a bit unsure if my laquer method Im thinking of will work. I have bought a lacquer that i got recommended for guitar finish(NOT poly though).
I wanna do 3-4 layers. Let it cure for a week.
Sand with 1000 grit till its flat.
3-4 layers on top of that and then sand with 1000 then 1500 and then 2000.
Then polish.
I hope this will give me a nice high gloss.
What do you think?
That should work fine if it's lacquer.
Hey Brad.. She's looking great already! I can't wait to see her all done up after you finish every "pro-cess".. anyway, I do have a question: I'm getting ready to spray my Strat body, I have a look in mind but I'm not sure how to achieve it. The best way I can describe it is a blue candy cats eye marble.
I'm not sure if I should spray her white first & build up a candy blue or go silver first.
Any thoughts,ideas recommendations, advise or even a flat out "dear God NO" would be greatly appreciated.
Can you elaborate on what you mean by marble in this case? Candy blue over white will mostly just look blue. Candy over silver will have some of that metallic show through. That’s usually a better effect.
how much time between the primer coats did you use? And also... after a week did you happen to wear the same shirt between primer and top coat? It really looks like you did this all on the same day... I thought you were waiting a week after primer before color?
I usually give primer a couple days to dry and then sand if there are any issues. There were no issues here, so I may have done primer and color on the same day and then waited a week before spraying my clear. I have a few of the same or similar cheap shirts that I wear for shop work.
@@BradAngove Thanks for the reply. I have been messing around with guitar pedal boxes and experimenting with primers colors and clear coats. I was ganna say, it looked like it was all done the same day! The Rust Oleum cans do say you can do it all in a day. each coat can go on over the last as long as its within 1 hour... after that you have to wait 2 days... I thought that seemed a little too good to be true.
So you wait a week before clear coat? holy crap. Is spray panting supposed to take this kind of wait time?
I wait a week because the clear is a different paint type than the color in this case. I want enough of the solvents to evaporate out to avoid a reaction.
You can do some spray paint finishes in a day, but if you’re trying for results that are more like professional paint systems, you need to follow a procedure that is more like those.
@@BradAngove Your videos have been helpful man... thank you. Thinking of trying that 2k clear can you spoke of... I do have a full respirator to use.
Last question... I have been drying rust oleum clear coats for well over a week. Its dry enough to sand gently... but if I take my fingernail and press it into it... it does scratch/dent it.... is that just how it is? I figured this stuff would get super hard
Great video man! Great job!
Thanks Brian
@@BradAngove absolutely man, thanks for the content!
I love your videos and your channel! but maybe you should start staring at your lavalier microphone a little lower, because if you put it like this around the collar of your t-shirts, it will constantly bang against your throat and the resulting sound will always be muffled
Ya, I’ve started doing that. Took me way too long to learn that lesson haha.
@@BradAngove thanks for what you do! Your channel is one of my points of reference
Wait do I need to put some primer on before the duplicolor? Or can I just put grain fill (aqua coat), sand, then start?
Why do the sides always look fantastic and need almost no work to look great! Love that colour and the sparkle is just right. I've only ever sprayed once with 2k paint when I painted my Gpz900r black in 1991 and it was great to use. 99% of the time I use nitro on a guitar as I dont like the sticky heavy feel of poly. Good job tho brother..
I think it's because the sides just get a slightly heavier coat, and it's always nice and even. They never get hit with the edges of the spray patterns where the paint doesn't atomize as well.
@@BradAngove yeah definitely as I do the same as you and spray the edges first then the body. Nice job.
I just used this exact paint the perfect match on a pc case and the texture of the paint came out like sand paper? Is that normal Or should i wet sand it before I use the 2k clear coat?
Hey Brad, I know it's an old video, but I'm curious how long you wait for the primer, paint and clear coat to cure before moving on to the next step
I have the primer and color about a week on this one. 24 hours for this clear coat.
Looks good man
Thanks Blake. Glad you like it.
Thank you so much for this series. Did you use Dupli-Color® Sandable Primer?
I believe so. That or their filler primer.
Brad, love your videos! I do have a question though. I want to do a finish to a kit that I want to do and I will try to get a screen shot that I did. Here it is..
I don’t think you can send photos through RUclips comments Albert.
Just to clarify, how much time was between each coat? I know you said in the beginning but some of the edits made it seem like you did one after the other.
Another great looking guitar in the process. Have you ever done an Eerie Dess paint style? Or would you be willing to give it a shot in one of your future videos?
Do you mean iridescent? I've done a few, but not necessarily on the channel. I have one coming up that is somewhat iridescent, and intend on doing a few more as time progresses.
@@BradAngove Sort of like that. Here is a video of the style I'm talking about. Hope it's ok to post this here on your site. ruclips.net/video/sAqA05FeZOQ/видео.html I've only found one guy try this on RUclips, but it was very amateur and I don't think he even finished it. Was hoping you could give it a shot for an upcoming video. Thanks.
I make guitars and I need to build/buy a booth. Yours looks interesting. Do you have a video where you talk about it or can share the make and model? Also I did not catch how long you waited between color coats and between clear coats. Cheers - Andrew
10-15 minutes between coats generally. I’m not sure where the boss picked up the booth, but I’ll take a look at the brand next time I’m in the shop. I know you can get similar ones through coast airbrush and probably Eastwood auto.
Would I be able to do this with out disassembling my guitar? I plan on doing so soon with an old guitar and wanna see how easy I can make it
Without disassembling it at all?
Im not a pro but, I dont recommend it. You can end up spreanding the primer or the duplicolor to the pickups (even if you tape it).
how long are you waiting between coats of the color and between coats of clear?
10-15 minutes
Ahh, I think this video answered my question a previous point. You apply clear coat > sand (i.e. 1500 - 4000 grit), then polish out. Right? Think I got it... haha
Yeah, that’s the gist of it.
Ahoy, I recently did a swirl-dip paint job and used SprayMax 2k which did a great job... but for whatever reason, I then decided to scour the end finish with 3000 grit before buffing it out with polish.
This left it with a sort of satin finish when I wanted high gloss to help enhance the colour pop!
Is it possible to lay another coat or 2 of SprayMax 2k, or will the polish I used repel the clear coat? If that is the case, is there a way to prep it without ruining the cool swirl paint below?
Thanks in advance!!
Wipe on a auto body degreaser such as PPG DX-330 or similar product.Then without letting the degreaser dry, wipe with a dry rag or it will leave a film. This will stop any fish eyeing and is common practice in body shops before primer, color, and clear.
@@fsca72 I’ll try that on an inconspicuous spot
hey man, did you sand the color coat before the 2k clear? if not, if there are paint blobs is it ok to sand it before clear? thanks
I didn’t. if there are imperfections, you will want to sand and then add one more light coat before moving on to the clear.
Do you try and keep the spray booth at specific temp and humidity? Finish looks great 👍
I don’t generally need to. it stays around room temp and it’s fairly dry around here.
Brad, at 13:20 you say that if you wanna bury a vinyl (which I do), you should do 3 coats - lightly sand with 800 - do 3 coats again. I want to avoid sanding through the first round of clear coat before applying the second. Anything to particularly take into account when doing that step?
You really just need to sand lightly so that the next coats can stick. You don’t need to level sand at that stage. Just be gentle. 800 doesn’t eat through paint very quickly.
@@BradAngove you're so helpful. I really appreciate what you do. There should be more "real content" like yours on RUclips. I owe you.
@@BradAngove😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢