You can paint over the conductive shielding paint, but the shielding has to be connected to ground somewhere or it’s just paint. Lots of people just paint it on and think it’s going to shield the guitar even though they didn’t ground it to something. Usually there’s a screw with a ground wire that’s been painted with the conductive paint.
I believe that spraying over conductive paint would not matter, as long as you leave few spots covered so you can later connect it to conductive foil on the bottom of the pickguard. Actually on a few projects I did that intentionally so I don't accidently ground something when I stuff electronics in. But, fantastic paint job!
Hey, that was really cool, Brad! I've been a painter for decades, though I haven't had occasion to do much with it for some time now. Even so -- I learned stuff here, and was reminded of other aspects I hadn't thought of in a long time. Hope to see Part 2 soon!
great vid Brad, yes prepping can be slow tedious frustrating work but if you want a top finish excellent prep work will pay off I have a strat ready for filling and sanding but I'm undecided as yet which way ill go stain and oil, translucent or solid had all new parts shipped from the States taking my time with this one.
Hey Brad, great video! I made my guitar spray stand with a low speed, high torque motor to rotate what I'm spraying to get even spray coats all over, which I picked up watching how Carvin does their tranparent finishes. It works excellent! With Mowhawk finishing products, a lifetime ago I delivered waterbeds and furniture. I had a large Mohawk repair kit for scratches/dents on furniture. They make some outstanding product like wax sticks etc. Also, have you tried using a Cabinet maker's stainless scraper? You can get them in various sizes with the 6" being my favorite. Eric Clapton has all of his guitar necks finished with Super Glue. He says it feels better than Nitro Laquer.
@Brad would you be generous enough to do a video comparing the nitro and other paints you value using... and the why of it? What works together (base, clear combos etc). I've seen some of your aluminium ground art and am more an airbrush artist myself; would love to branch out and need to work out what can work in my climate here in Australia (and can buy). If not a video have you any links you suggest to cover this stuff?
Any worries about using the wax and grease remover with the superglue? I've used CA to finish a guitar before, with noticeable improvement of the resonance and benefit to the "tone" of the wood, and a really nice shine of a finish... but it's not totally water resistant - Any ideas on what kinds of products might be used to put a water-resistant finish over that that will keep the CA effects, and "make it look nice"?
The guitar wasn't relic'd, the nicks and stuff that he's fixing is just my poor job scraping the paint off because it was my first time doing it. It never had a scratch on it before this which is what I don't like about urethane - it looked brand new after 12 years and just had no character. When I bought it, I didn't care about the colour because I knew I was going to get it re-finished in the pearl green nitro anyway. I hope to have this guitar for a long time and 30 years from now I hope it shows that.
Does the sealer destroy the properties of the shielding paint? Find it hard to believe, but i do not know. It maybe de-solves the shielding paint, if not it should work no matter how many layers of paint you put on. And it probably has to do with how thick the shielding paint is.
You mostly just need to be able to ground to the paint afterward, but I see no point in putting something between the paint and the electronics that it is shielding.
Great stuff as usual. Have you thought of trying SolarEz UV cure vinyl ester sealer? I’ve got some of there polyester sealer/filler, I haven’t used it yet, but will soon.
Hey Brad, Would a lvlp gun be sufficient for guitar finishing? I'm looking into getting equipment for a beginners spray set up. Don't have access to a big compressor, only a 6 gal pancake. Love the channel, been referencing your videos for the last year or two now. Keep it up!
I have a decades old conventional DeVillbiss siphon feed spray gun. What should I set the PSI on that gun for nitro lacquer? Most discussion is with HVLP, I don't see much information with conventional spray guns.
I haven’t used one of those in ages, so I would say it’s worth doing a little rest setup. Get the regulator set up at the bottom of the gun, start at 20psi, and dial it up until it starts atomizing correctly.
Brad. I've got a guitar that I have been working on. My daughter did a custom paint job on the top and then I was spraying it with the nitrocellulose finish from StewMac. I had a few dents that happened when I set it on something I shouldn't have so I was sanded it and went to put a couple more coats on. After drying overnight, there were a bunch of random deep grooves that have appeared. I'm not sure what I should do at this time, if I should put on more coats to try and level it, wait a few weeks and sand it down or what. Any advice? Your channel is awesome and is one of the main reasons I decided to try this project out. Cheers
Brad Angove the paint is fine. It had 10-15 coats of the nitrocellulose before these last two coats that were good and had dried for about 6 weeks or so. I have some photos if you have a email. It’s really random.
I think I know what you’re referring to. Sometimes paint pulls like that just from a bit of shrinking. Generally I would just try to sand that smooth and polish.
Normally you would just use a different type of paint rather than nitro. It’s not the gassing off that’s the issue. It mostly ambers from UV and a bit from sweat etc. Putting a poly clear on there with UV protection would probably keep it white considerably longer.
@@BradAngove So a poly clear could go over a nitrocellulose without any issues? Is there a nitro clear with uv protectant that would work? I have heard nitro coats bond into one another. Looking at a new Gibson in classic white, but would like to find away to keep it from looking like butter in the future.
If you leave enough time for the nitro to dry fully they can go together. Nitro yellows. That’s just how it is. If you want to do a non-yellowing lacquer, just use acrylic lacquer instead of nitro.
Hey Brad. Been following you for a long time, I love your content. There's a question that's driving me crazy... What's the best mode to remove completely the primer of a guitar?? Thanks!
@@BradAngove I'm actually working on 5 bodies. All of them have poly finishes. Not sure of polyester or polyurethane. Very thick layers of plastic in all of them. As hard as a rock... I'm going just now to the workshop.
Have you seen mumbling productions latest, they have roasted Guns and guitars this time! Lol. Gotta love it, hope you arent the next victim! Green, i wonder what colour it will be when it ripens? Lol
Surprised you rely on the shielding paint rather than apply fresh copper tape. Tape is much more effective against RFI and easily seals big cavities like Strats and Fender basses.
I think the client was looking to keep that part stock, but I wouldn’t have re-shielded it anyway. Fender uses the paint on their high end guitar like this one. There’s no reason for me to mess with that.
![Twenty One Pilots - The Line (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XCz7WUotXs8/mqdefault.jpg)
You can paint over the conductive shielding paint, but the shielding has to be connected to ground somewhere or it’s just paint. Lots of people just paint it on and think it’s going to shield the guitar even though they didn’t ground it to something. Usually there’s a screw with a ground wire that’s been painted with the conductive paint.
Love the DIY holder for spraying too!
You can also tape the corners of the razor blade
I like your spray stand. I'll propably do one for myself before doing my projects
Awsome brad.
Nice.
Looking great buddy.
Take care and all the best.
👍✌😎
Thanks Mark!
Hey brad, long time fan here just wanted to say that you’re the best in the game and I hope you’re doing well homie🙏🙏
Thank you. Much appreciated!
I believe that spraying over conductive paint would not matter, as long as you leave few spots covered so you can later connect it to conductive foil on the bottom of the pickguard. Actually on a few projects I did that intentionally so I don't accidently ground something when I stuff electronics in. But, fantastic paint job!
Can't wait for part 2 🥰❤️
Very cool Brad.
Great video , Brad !! Well done !!!
Thanks Mike!
Hey, that was really cool, Brad! I've been a painter for decades, though I haven't had occasion to do much with it for some time now. Even so -- I learned stuff here, and was reminded of other aspects I hadn't thought of in a long time. Hope to see Part 2 soon!
Thanks Seth. Glad you liked it.
Big love from Downunder Brad, love your vids!
Thank you!
great vid Brad, yes prepping can be slow tedious frustrating work but if you want a top finish excellent prep work will pay off I have a strat ready for filling and sanding but I'm undecided as yet which way ill go stain and oil, translucent or solid had all new parts shipped from the States taking my time with this one.
Taking your time is important. I’m sure it will turn out well.
Hey Brad, great video! I made my guitar spray stand with a low speed, high torque motor to rotate what I'm spraying to get even spray coats all over, which I picked up watching how Carvin does their tranparent finishes. It works excellent! With Mowhawk finishing products, a lifetime ago I delivered waterbeds and furniture. I had a large Mohawk repair kit for scratches/dents on furniture. They make some outstanding product like wax sticks etc. Also, have you tried using a Cabinet maker's stainless scraper? You can get them in various sizes with the 6" being my favorite. Eric Clapton has all of his guitar necks finished with Super Glue. He says it feels better than Nitro Laquer.
Thanks George. Is the stainless scraper a cabinet scraper? (Cars scraper/Spring steel scraper?) if so, I have a few. They’re a great tool.
@@BradAngove, yes, it is. I've used them for several decades as a Cabinet Maker, and guitar builder. I can't live without them.
@Brad would you be generous enough to do a video comparing the nitro and other paints you value using... and the why of it? What works together (base, clear combos etc).
I've seen some of your aluminium ground art and am more an airbrush artist myself; would love to branch out and need to work out what can work in my climate here in Australia (and can buy).
If not a video have you any links you suggest to cover this stuff?
I’ve done a few videos chatting about the comparison between different paint types
Any worries about using the wax and grease remover with the superglue? I've used CA to finish a guitar before, with noticeable improvement of the resonance and benefit to the "tone" of the wood, and a really nice shine of a finish... but it's not totally water resistant - Any ideas on what kinds of products might be used to put a water-resistant finish over that that will keep the CA effects, and "make it look nice"?
Was it an acoustic or an electric?
Hey Brad.. long time no chat lol. I have an idea for sanding around the horns. Double sided tape on the tip of your finger & 400grit on that.
Start a piece of sandpaper between you’re index and middle finger and wrap it around both fingers. Then just pinch the corner with your thumb.
I never understood relic a new guitar and then when you have a relic guitar you want it to look new makes no sense to me great video by the way
The guitar wasn't relic'd, the nicks and stuff that he's fixing is just my poor job scraping the paint off because it was my first time doing it. It never had a scratch on it before this which is what I don't like about urethane - it looked brand new after 12 years and just had no character. When I bought it, I didn't care about the colour because I knew I was going to get it re-finished in the pearl green nitro anyway. I hope to have this guitar for a long time and 30 years from now I hope it shows that.
Does the sealer destroy the properties of the shielding paint? Find it hard to believe, but i do not know. It maybe de-solves the shielding paint, if not it should work no matter how many layers of paint you put on. And it probably has to do with how thick the shielding paint is.
You mostly just need to be able to ground to the paint afterward, but I see no point in putting something between the paint and the electronics that it is shielding.
Great stuff as usual. Have you thought of trying SolarEz UV cure vinyl ester sealer? I’ve got some of there polyester sealer/filler, I haven’t used it yet, but will soon.
I’ve thought about it and have heard good things about it. Just haven’t had the opportunity to try it out yet.
Brad Angove Good things come to those who wait....
Hey Brad,
Would a lvlp gun be sufficient for guitar finishing? I'm looking into getting equipment for a beginners spray set up. Don't have access to a big compressor, only a 6 gal pancake.
Love the channel, been referencing your videos for the last year or two now. Keep it up!
A decent LVLP gun should work fine. It’s a little tougher to get a good clear coat with them in my opinion, but they work well for a lot of things.
I have a decades old conventional DeVillbiss siphon feed spray gun. What should I set the PSI on that gun for nitro lacquer? Most discussion is with HVLP, I don't see much information with conventional spray guns.
I haven’t used one of those in ages, so I would say it’s worth doing a little rest setup. Get the regulator set up at the bottom of the gun, start at 20psi, and dial it up until it starts atomizing correctly.
I love your videos and I'm getting ready to do my first body. Question, can I use lapping film instead of wet/dry sandpaper?
I would think so, yes. I’ve never tried it though.
Hi Brad! Any suggestions for a good classic vintage Sonic Blue spray paint can with regards to brand and type?
I think reranch or colortone may have lacquers in that color.
That's a gnarly cut on your left hand. Ouch!
I can’t even remember what that’s from at this point. My hands are pretty scarred up.
Brad. I've got a guitar that I have been working on. My daughter did a custom paint job on the top and then I was spraying it with the nitrocellulose finish from StewMac. I had a few dents that happened when I set it on something I shouldn't have so I was sanded it and went to put a couple more coats on. After drying overnight, there were a bunch of random deep grooves that have appeared. I'm not sure what I should do at this time, if I should put on more coats to try and level it, wait a few weeks and sand it down or what. Any advice? Your channel is awesome and is one of the main reasons I decided to try this project out. Cheers
Are the grooves cracks in the paint?
Brad Angove the paint is fine. It had 10-15 coats of the nitrocellulose before these last two coats that were good and had dried for about 6 weeks or so. I have some photos if you have a email. It’s really random.
I think I know what you’re referring to. Sometimes paint pulls like that just from a bit of shrinking. Generally I would just try to sand that smooth and polish.
Brad Angove thank you for the advice. This is what the top looks like and I went over it with lacquer.
ruclips.net/video/wOuySqihbeY/видео.html
I set up a 2 axis spray station like Jaycolor, do you have gun setup videos, or is that something you can do?
I believe I have two of them. One for most paints, and one for acrylics. They’re relatively old videos.
@@BradAngove my video request would be for a nitro or 2K spray gun setup video, probably getting one Black Friday
Sounds like a plan.
Is there anyway to seal a classic white nitrocellulose finish so it does not gas off over time and turn yellow?
Normally you would just use a different type of paint rather than nitro. It’s not the gassing off that’s the issue. It mostly ambers from UV and a bit from sweat etc.
Putting a poly clear on there with UV protection would probably keep it white considerably longer.
@@BradAngove So a poly clear could go over a nitrocellulose without any issues? Is there a nitro clear with uv protectant that would work? I have heard nitro coats bond into one another. Looking at a new Gibson in classic white, but would like to find away to keep it from looking like butter in the future.
If you leave enough time for the nitro to dry fully they can go together. Nitro yellows. That’s just how it is.
If you want to do a non-yellowing lacquer, just use acrylic lacquer instead of nitro.
Hey Brad. Been following you for a long time, I love your content. There's a question that's driving me crazy... What's the best mode to remove completely the primer of a guitar?? Thanks!
I like to use paint stripper or a heat gun.
@@BradAngove I think I'm doing something wrong, because none of those options are really working.... Thanks anyway mate, I'll keep trying.
What kind of primer is it? Polyester?
@@BradAngove I'm actually working on 5 bodies. All of them have poly finishes. Not sure of polyester or polyurethane. Very thick layers of plastic in all of them. As hard as a rock... I'm going just now to the workshop.
That stuff is brutal. Only sanding or scraping has worked for me with it.
👍👍
If I'm using the hammer paint should I grain fill or is that unnecessary?
Hammered paint is relatively thick. Just putting a primer under it is generally adequate.
Feeding the algorithm
Cheers Sam
Check out the latest from mumbling productions, you might have predicted it! Lol
That was bloody hilarious.
Hey buddy. I have a question. Do you do custom orders.
I do some. I have a backlog to get through at the moment though before I can take on any more.
Have you seen mumbling productions latest, they have roasted Guns and guitars this time! Lol. Gotta love it, hope you arent the next victim! Green, i wonder what colour it will be when it ripens? Lol
Haha I’ll have to check it out. I’m sure I’ll be in the victim list sooner rather than later.
@@BradAngove looks like you made the victim list 🤣
Didn’t take long haha
Surprised you rely on the shielding paint rather than apply fresh copper tape. Tape is much more effective against RFI and easily seals big cavities like Strats and Fender basses.
I think the client was looking to keep that part stock, but I wouldn’t have re-shielded it anyway. Fender uses the paint on their high end guitar like this one. There’s no reason for me to mess with that.
Brad you said a 0.5mm nozzle. Did you mean to say 1.5mm? 0.5mm seems really small to me.
Yup, meant 1.5 for sure.