I just wanted to let you know how helpful your videos have been. I'm an aspiring custom car designer..on a budget... and the videos that you put out have been some of the most helpful on the internet. Thank you for how generous you've been with your knowledge.
thanks so much for being one of the very few on you tube , who knows what they are talking about & has a ( no bullshit ) approach to passing on your craft to the next guy who desperately want's to learn the craft " correctly " the first time !!!!!!!! like you said ; THE SMOKE AND MIRRORS CRAP , ain't here on this channel !!!!! TWO THUMBS UP GUY !!!!!!! KEEP UP THE GREAT VIDEOS , YOU ARE MAKING A BIG DIFFERANCE IN THIS TRADE !!!!!!!
Great instruction. I used to paint and finish for Bill Roell and Jim “Dauber” Farr. The only 2 artists to be inducted into the HotRod Hall of fame. You are as detailed as I am and , was 30 years ago! Bravo !
I have watched hundreds or even thousands of videos on how to sand and polish paint and your way of explaining things takes the fear out of just doing it. Glad I came across this video. I will subscribe and watch all of your other videos.
Great vid, i have just begun to learn how to pollish and im 58. I have watched a shit tin of vids to get to a better than dealership polish but this vid contained what has taken me dozens of others to piece together. Thanks.
Absolutely beautiful work. You make it look so effortless and explained the process so that even a beginner can understand it. Best teacher ever. Thank you
Hi, excellent process & a great explanation of how to do this job properly. Awesome finished job. After many years in the trade I have found that a fingernail scrub brush works well to clean up the foam polish pads with out damaging the pad. Thanks again great video
I love the way you explain things! Your good at teaching and you can tell that you know your craft. Your videos have helped me in my own work for sure!
Love the video. I been using Dura-Gold Premium 1500- 2000 Grit Green Film sticky back from Amazon and wet sanding with it. The 1500 is more like 1000 grit. That is ok though it cuts quick and last a while for such cheap paper. The sticky back does leave a residue on the polycarbonate block that wax and grease remover takes off easily. I follow up with Nikken wet or Kovax buflex dry paper and then trizact before compound. Really speeds up the process. I bought a linear blocking tools kit based off of another one of your videos. I might give his paper a try on my next order. Thanks
I've never been a big fan of D/A sanding my paint work unless I'm using foam backed paper like 1000g or 3000g. I don't like the pigtails from dry paper. Seems to do more harm than good.
@@class5bodyworks I agree, however I only d/a on the last grit or two. Foam backed disk like Mirka Abralon cut pretty slow in my opinion. Most film disks that I have used, no matter how clean your surface is and free of nibs or no matter how slow you run the DA you'll still get pigtails from the paper loading. Especially with fresh or soft clears. Kovax Japanese films are a serious game changer for me. They are uniform grit ceramic so you won't get scratches courser than the grit you are using and also they treat the paper to prevent loading, truly amazing stuff. Use with an interface pad and blow off disk every minute or so. I mostly wet sand up to 2000 then finish with trizact or bufflex before compound.
Thanks for all your videos Travis, they have been incredibly valuable to us! if you ever want to dial in your paint correction/detailing id love to see about trading some knowledge/experience as i am pushing into the body side! either way keep up the create work and content!
Thank you. We actually have Jason Killmer here January 14 and 15th for a class I’m hosting. We’re hoping to have some classes on body work this coming year
Glad I've subbed and found your channel bro. Thumbs up for the tutorials. I'm 44 now and have learnt the hard way patience is key. In my early days I was the numnuts with the buff trying to find another 6000rpm thinking that would help😂. Then burn the fuck out of edges,flat panels even what we call Sill panels, you guy's Rocker panels I believe. Then the poor bastard who was selling the Clear at the time would be the biggest asshole cos his product was shit🤦♂️ Although the product was great,just my arrogance was what was shit. Once I learnt some humility and manners I took several training seminars and learnt from those that knew the right way. Now I spend the time prior to even reaching for the polish getting the sanding dam near as perfect as I can. You Sir are killing it. Awesome work. Ps sorry for the long winded speal.
I learn from all the sources I can so I can do as good a finishing job on my guitar build as possible. Even though I'm doing a guitar body the process is the same as a car body since Fender used automotive paint colors on their guitars initially and through the years this hasn't changed much.. I'm finishing my Strat build with a custom paint job and extremely thick clear coat to insure a totally flat, smooth and shiny finish. If you think a guitar is an easy finishing job try it once..Fine details show up more on a guitar body because you are so much more closely scrutinizing it. A truly glassy shine is the norm on most guitar bodies weather paint and clear coat or natural wood cleared or oiled and polished. a good paint job takes as much time on a guitar as you would take for a concourse finish on a car. Of course the total surface area is much smaller on the guitar but you tend to look at a guitar at a much closer perspective also so it has to be done to a finer detailed finish. There's no such thing as a car or a guitar that's too shiny in my opinion. Well maybe those mirror chrome wraps on too expensive exotics... too much money mulches some peoples brains I think.
Thanks Travis, just sub'd to your channel. Power watching all your videos, taking notes, and learning so many useful tips that will be useful to completing my project. You have a great way of explaining each step that is thorough, yet easy to understand. Thanks again for sharing your time, effort, and knowledge into making these videos available. 🤘
@@Rick-O-Shay60 sorry we try and get them all. Linearblocks.com if you go to another video I think it was the “block sanding primer” we have a link with a discount code to save you a little bit on the cost.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Fantastic, I have a few of their blocks and love'm. Looking forward to future videos, It's one of the best Paint & Body channels here on RUclips... Thanks again.
Not sure if I may have missed a video but did you show the sanding process. I believe you discussed it. I've finally got mine dialed in after a lot of experimenting. Kept getting the cellulite after buffing. Started using 600g first the stepping out. That was the ticket. Just need some extra clear to allow it.
I'm building a car for sema battle of the builders (last year I got 1st in my class) and I have watched this at least 10 times. It's a big help! I would love a video of you explaining how you get any scratches out after you have it wet sanded and buffed. I seem to always get one or a few scratches in each panel caused by dust or clear build up. Do you just block out the scratch or have to block the entire panel. Thanks again for the great content. I purchased the sand paper, blocks and compound you recommend and enjoying it all so far!
The videos are great! I would like to see a demonstration on sanding body lines and edges. Everyone says to avoid them but doesn't explain how to sand them. Thanks
Amazing insite .....lol I haven't done body work for 25 years i did it for 5 years but had to give it fulltime ....I have time now so as a weekend project I painted my trunk after someone keyed it ....every thing I had questions on he answered..every issue I had ...he talked about ...lmao
I see your using the Linear Block....I have 4 of them, wished I would have had them earlier in my career ...that started in 1978. I do it pretty much like you cept I chicken out starting with 800 on up to 4 or 5000. The last thing ya wanna see is color on a white buffer pad...great video.
Thank you. No I use the ceramic X on two different pads. The finish should have no grain before moving on from wool pad. If you cannot get it to appear clear then you need to be more detailed in sanding. The foam pads remove swirls
A lot of knowledge bombs in this video. This is probably a question for a clear coat video, but at the begining of this video you mentioned the hood had 4-5 coats of clear. Can that many coats be applied at the same time or does that have to be broken up over 2 days?
That is done all in one shot. You just have to give enough flash time in between coats. Doing a tack test to ensure it’s not stringy is key. You do not want to do a flowcoat because the first round of clear and the second round of clear if you broke it up into two different days the two do not melt into one another so if you burned through the topcoat it will still show a haze around the halo that is burned. 👍🏻
I second all the positive kudos for your considered and detailed teaching methods. One quick question on the paper soaking. Can you soak the sticky-backed paper as well before applying? Or would you apply the paper to the longboard and then soak the board/paper as a unit? Again, thanks for all the time, effort, and knowledge you share!
To be honest I’m not sure on that one I typically am only using the block with the sticky back on only the big flat surfaces so we just stick it directly to the block and use a lot of water you’ll still want to do the detailed areas with something smaller and more flexible anyhow. Thanks again for the compliment much appreciated
You said that hood has 4-5 coats of high solid clear. I'm curious if that was wet on wet or flow coated after two coats. Love your channel keep up the great work.
Wet on wet. The reason we don’t do flow coats unless we have to is because A lot of people think if you do let’s just say three coats one day and then come back after sanding and flow coat another three coats you do not have six coats to sand you only have 3. But if I do five coats or more back to back then you have that amount that you can actually block down to get completely flat. When it comes to flash times you will want to extend the flash time a little bit longer depending on your temperature after every coat. Hope that helps
one last question. how do you deal with the trickey areas that you mentioned that are difficult to sand and or polish if we aren't talking absolute show car??
Be mindful that the car manufacturers use very little clear coat compared to what you see in restoration like these builds. You can cut through very quickly. Then it's a repaint.
Maybe I missed it but how many coats of clear was on that car before you started with 600? I know it being a high solids you had some room but was curious
I'm painting my first motorcycle tank (using the best rattle can paint I could find.) . My paint looks pretty good but it seems to have a little texture or orange peel. Can I lightly sand it with 2000 before putting clear coat on, or is that a no no?
good morning... question... I have a 75 chevy that has never been repainted. still has the factory single stage paint. it has never been polished or refurbished or freshened at all. the car has always been under cover AND in a garage. I'd like to make it shine better. is there a process to do that? this has NO clear on the car at all. never has had clear coat. Thank You for your time...
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS is the black rotary polisher a griots?? because they only sell red random orbit polishers now, love the black 7/9 inch rotary with knob end no handle ill have to look for a used one thanks Dan
I've had good luck using warm or hot water and rubbing it in with my hand to loosen up the dried polish then shake and spin it dry. A little messy so I like to do it by someone I work with. 😏
So im to this point on my truck. Clear has been on the bed for nearly a month. Its super hard and imhad a little more orangepeel than im use to either from the high summer temps and humidity or possibly a gun issue with my sata 4000 but 800 grit is taking FOREVER. Can i go to 600? If so... what can i jump to from there? I have 800, 1000 and 1500 already bought. Do i need something else?
Depends on how much clear you have on the truck. As long as it’s accounted for in thickness yes 600 can be done carefully to not burn through. You need every grit up to 3k to do it perfect
I have always been sceptical about ceramic coating products. First, the products do not actually contain ceramic. All are silicone based instead of bees or carnauba wax. Therefore "ceramic" is a catchy name used for marketing. I also don't believe the claim that the application will make the clear coat harder. Is there any proof that? I would like to hear your thoughts. Thanks so much!
Honest opinion I’ve never used it as of yet. I myself would love to learn more. I’ll be holding a class this January with Jason Killmer he’s one of the best in color sand and polish he will know. Once we go through it I’ll do a video on it 👍🏻
So what I gather is if you(me actually) are doing a great paint job on a car taking 6 months could be a good thing. To let everything dry/cure correctly???
Because orbital does not remove as much material and if you were not the guy who painted the car, you have no idea how much clear is on it. Detail guys most of the time we’re not brought up understanding the paint process.
Why do you say that a high solid clear is better but then say to use a 2:1 clear? Wouldn't a 4:1 be better as it has more clear in the mix (twice as much compared to a 2:1) ? A 2:1 is going to be 50% hardener / catalyst whereas a 4:1 is only going to be 25%.
@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS the math is pretty straight forward, 2:1 is 2 parts paint (clear) and 1 part hardener meaning for every 2 gallons of paint there is 1 gallon of hardener. 4:1 is 4 gallons of paint for 1 gallon hardener meaning the paint is diluted less in a 4:1 mix ?
It's ok to plug items, saying "this is not a plug" while clearly plugging stuff is weird.. plug stuff you like, as long as you're honest about the item and it's quality it's all good...
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS that would be a sponsored plug/ad... plugging an item is just the showing and use of a product that you go on to recommend.. there's nothing wrong with either as long as you're honest about the results.. Ive found some great products through plugs
Good video but if I can make a suggestion ..you talked 6 to 1 versus your action man ..I know you want to help , Too much talking and not enough showing!!… as the old saying goes SHOW and tell!!… keep up the good work
I think videos are perfect the way they are you doing great by explaining processes do and don’ts That help people understand why things are done certain way specially DIY thanks fir sharing you experience 👍👍
Where’s the pretty girl? Lol’s. Very good video with very good information. But…I noticed when you put the sandpaper on the block you laid the sandpaper on the bench. The bench had a lot of “stuff” on it including a grinder. Just saying. Anyway a beautiful paint and polish job!
I just wanted to let you know how helpful your videos have been. I'm an aspiring custom car designer..on a budget... and the videos that you put out have been some of the most helpful on the internet. Thank you for how generous you've been with your knowledge.
Thank you so much I’m glad to hear it
Somebody below said you are a good teacher. I second that. Easy to follow, thorough and based on direct experience. 5 Stars thanks!
Thank you very much!!
Having been in the industry for almost two decades l can say this guy knows his stuff and is a superb instructor. Awesome video!👍👍
Thank you!!
thanks so much for being one of the very few on you tube , who knows what they are talking about & has a ( no bullshit ) approach to passing on your craft to the next guy who desperately want's to learn the craft " correctly " the first time !!!!!!!!
like you said ; THE SMOKE AND MIRRORS CRAP , ain't here on this channel !!!!! TWO THUMBS UP GUY !!!!!!!
KEEP UP THE GREAT VIDEOS , YOU ARE MAKING A BIG DIFFERANCE IN THIS TRADE !!!!!!!
Thanks so much !!🤘🏻👊🏻🙌🏻
Custom painter since 1962 here - the plexiglass blocks are the SECRET WEAPON! 👍💪
💯💯💯
Great instruction. I used to paint and finish for Bill Roell and Jim “Dauber” Farr. The only 2 artists to be inducted into the HotRod Hall of fame. You are as detailed as I am and , was 30 years ago! Bravo !
Thank you very much I appreciate it
I have watched hundreds or even thousands of videos on how to sand and polish paint and your way of explaining things takes the fear out of just doing it. Glad I came across this video. I will subscribe and watch all of your other videos.
Greatly appreciated!
Great vid, i have just begun to learn how to pollish and im 58. I have watched a shit tin of vids to get to a better than dealership polish but this vid contained what has taken me dozens of others to piece together. Thanks.
Just incredible the way you explaining it! If I had to do all that sanding and polishing my arms would fall off! 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Haha thank you!
Thanks for the help making my projects look better.
Glad to hear it you are welcome!
great segment!!! we have a saying at work when new guys come. we tell them there is a right way an wrong way and the way we do things
Thank you!
Absolutely beautiful work. You make it look so effortless and explained the process so that even a beginner can understand it. Best teacher ever. Thank you
Thank you very much
Hi, excellent process & a great explanation of how to do this job properly. Awesome finished job. After many years in the trade I have found that a fingernail scrub brush works well to clean up the foam polish pads with out damaging the pad. Thanks again great video
I’ll give that a try thank you for sharing!!
I would just say yes he is very good instructor and explains everything very well Very easy to learn from him how he explains that Thank you
Thank you very much
I love the way you explain things! Your good at teaching and you can tell that you know your craft. Your videos have helped me in my own work for sure!
That’s awesome to hear thank you very much
amazing work as usual.One of the best channels out there.
Thank you so much
A nice finish is such an art and a science
Thank you!
As always lots of learnings here for me on my 78 Holden Panel Van and good to know what makes a good product good. Thanks.
Thank you!
I've used csi alot its the only one that has given my project top quality good to know the steps
We used CSI for many years. It’s a good product. We’ve since moved onto meguires 110 & 210
Another great video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Truly appreciate your detailed explanations and advice for your DIY viewers.
Thank you!!
Love the video. I been using Dura-Gold Premium 1500- 2000 Grit Green Film sticky back from Amazon and wet sanding with it. The 1500 is more like 1000 grit. That is ok though it cuts quick and last a while for such cheap paper. The sticky back does leave a residue on the polycarbonate block that wax and grease remover takes off easily. I follow up with Nikken wet or Kovax buflex dry paper and then trizact before compound. Really speeds up the process. I bought a linear blocking tools kit based off of another one of your videos. I might give his paper a try on my next order. Thanks
Right on!! Thanks for the tip!
I've never been a big fan of D/A sanding my paint work unless I'm using foam backed paper like 1000g or 3000g. I don't like the pigtails from dry paper. Seems to do more harm than good.
@@class5bodyworks I agree, however I only d/a on the last grit or two. Foam backed disk like Mirka Abralon cut pretty slow in my opinion. Most film disks that I have used, no matter how clean your surface is and free of nibs or no matter how slow you run the DA you'll still get pigtails from the paper loading. Especially with fresh or soft clears. Kovax Japanese films are a serious game changer for me. They are uniform grit ceramic so you won't get scratches courser than the grit you are using and also they treat the paper to prevent loading, truly amazing stuff. Use with an interface pad and blow off disk every minute or so. I mostly wet sand up to 2000 then finish with trizact or bufflex before compound.
@@willsachs
Good to know. Thanks. I'll have to give those a try.
Learned so much your video I'm a new subscriber and supporter. Thanks
Thank you
Thank you so much for your time and your amazing detail in your explanation. Very much appreciated
You are very welcome
yes testing is the key what you said ill do that thanks for the video it helps im just learning
fantastic video so well explained looking forward to your next video
thankyou
Thank you!!
Thanks for all your videos Travis, they have been incredibly valuable to us! if you ever want to dial in your paint correction/detailing id love to see about trading some knowledge/experience as i am pushing into the body side! either way keep up the create work and content!
Thank you. We actually have Jason Killmer here January 14 and 15th for a class I’m hosting. We’re hoping to have some classes on body work this coming year
Glad I've subbed and found your channel bro. Thumbs up for the tutorials. I'm 44 now and have learnt the hard way patience is key. In my early days I was the numnuts with the buff trying to find another 6000rpm thinking that would help😂. Then burn the fuck out of edges,flat panels even what we call Sill panels, you guy's Rocker panels I believe. Then the poor bastard who was selling the Clear at the time would be the biggest asshole cos his product was shit🤦♂️ Although the product was great,just my arrogance was what was shit. Once I learnt some humility and manners I took several training seminars and learnt from those that knew the right way. Now I spend the time prior to even reaching for the polish getting the sanding dam near as perfect as I can. You Sir are killing it. Awesome work.
Ps sorry for the long winded speal.
Great story! Thanks for watching!
How about a quick video on how to wash and make sure your pads are clean and ready for the next job
Awesome info!!🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thank you!
I learn from all the sources I can so I can do as good a finishing job on my guitar build as possible. Even though I'm doing a guitar body the process is the same as a car body since Fender used automotive paint colors on their guitars initially and through the years this hasn't changed much.. I'm finishing my Strat build with a custom paint job and extremely thick clear coat to insure a totally flat, smooth and shiny finish. If you think a guitar is an easy finishing job try it once..Fine details show up more on a guitar body because you are so much more closely scrutinizing it. A truly glassy shine is the norm on most guitar bodies weather paint and clear coat or natural wood cleared or oiled and polished. a good paint job takes as much time on a guitar as you would take for a concourse finish on a car. Of course the total surface area is much smaller on the guitar but you tend to look at a guitar at a much closer perspective also so it has to be done to a finer detailed finish. There's no such thing as a car or a guitar that's too shiny in my opinion. Well maybe those mirror chrome wraps on too expensive exotics... too much money mulches some peoples brains I think.
So you are saying you spend 700+ hours on a guitar then?
Very good demonstration!
Thank you!
Great amount of information.
Glad it was helpful!
And remember no lose T shirts . When I started buffing. I was buffing my hood . And the buffer I seen my buffer flying over the top of my car 😂
🤣🤣 oh no!
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS 🤣🤣🤣
Nice job..... keep up the good work
Thank you
Thanks Travis, just sub'd to your channel. Power watching all your videos, taking notes, and learning so many useful tips that will be useful to completing my project. You have a great way of explaining each step that is thorough, yet easy to understand. Thanks again for sharing your time, effort, and knowledge into making these videos available. 🤘
Thank you very much we’re glad you enjoyed them
b.t.w. I didn't find a link listed for the sticky back wet sandpaper brand you're using in the video. May I get a link, or a brand name? Thanks.
@@Rick-O-Shay60 sorry we try and get them all. Linearblocks.com if you go to another video I think it was the “block sanding primer” we have a link with a discount code to save you a little bit on the cost.
Sorry it is linearblockingtools.com use discount code scinsta to save 15% 👍🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Fantastic, I have a few of their blocks and love'm. Looking forward to future videos, It's one of the best Paint & Body channels here on RUclips... Thanks again.
Great videos !!!
Thank you!
great content as usual...
Thank you!!
Not sure if I may have missed a video but did you show the sanding process. I believe you discussed it. I've finally got mine dialed in after a lot of experimenting. Kept getting the cellulite after buffing. Started using 600g first the stepping out. That was the ticket. Just need some extra clear to allow it.
This video we show the detailed process but nobody wants to watch me sand every stage so we just tell you what needs to be repeated and how.
Totally understand. I know it's a tedious process. Thanks though
I'm building a car for sema battle of the builders (last year I got 1st in my class) and I have watched this at least 10 times. It's a big help! I would love a video of you explaining how you get any scratches out after you have it wet sanded and buffed. I seem to always get one or a few scratches in each panel caused by dust or clear build up. Do you just block out the scratch or have to block the entire panel. Thanks again for the great content. I purchased the sand paper, blocks and compound you recommend and enjoying it all so far!
Thank you! Yes we just sand out the scratch and re-polish 👍🏻
The videos are great! I would like to see a demonstration on sanding body lines and edges. Everyone says to avoid them but doesn't explain how to sand them. Thanks
We actually have a very good method to this and we will be elaborating on it in the near future every Friday a video will be dropping 🤘🏻
I went to Wyoming tech for autobody in 1886 ...I learned more in the lady 30 minutes than I did in 3 months in the finishing school
Oh wow that’s humbling thank you!
Thanks!
Thank you
Amazing insite .....lol I haven't done body work for 25 years i did it for 5 years but had to give it fulltime ....I have time now so as a weekend project I painted my trunk after someone keyed it ....every thing I had questions on he answered..every issue I had ...he talked about ...lmao
Lol thank you!
👍👍thank you buddy 🧐🧐
No problem 👍
Excellent
Thank you
I see your using the Linear Block....I have 4 of them, wished I would have had them earlier in my career ...that started in 1978. I do it pretty much like you cept I chicken out starting with 800 on up to 4 or 5000. The last thing ya wanna see is color on a white buffer pad...great video.
Thank you very much.
Hell yeah you still use the buffer
Oh yes!!!
Great info man…
Thank you!
Accurate explaination
Thank yoi
Thank you!
Welcome 👍🏻
Will you show the bonnet on the car when it is completed. Thanks great job.
The car has already left but if you follow our Instagram the finished clip is on there.
Great work. To Clarify, You use the D1 with two different pads getting a finer polish?
Thank you. No I use the ceramic X on two different pads. The finish should have no grain before moving on from wool pad. If you cannot get it to appear clear then you need to be more detailed in sanding. The foam pads remove swirls
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS OK I see. Do you have a model number on the pads you use
What do you think about those clay bars on older paints and clears
Honest answer …. I’ve never used one. Probly because I’m in the industry I’m in I haven’t had a need for it.
Great video
Thank you
A lot of knowledge bombs in this video. This is probably a question for a clear coat video, but at the begining of this video you mentioned the hood had 4-5 coats of clear. Can that many coats be applied at the same time or does that have to be broken up over 2 days?
That is done all in one shot. You just have to give enough flash time in between coats. Doing a tack test to ensure it’s not stringy is key. You do not want to do a flowcoat because the first round of clear and the second round of clear if you broke it up into two different days the two do not melt into one another so if you burned through the topcoat it will still show a haze around the halo that is burned. 👍🏻
I second all the positive kudos for your considered and detailed teaching methods. One quick question on the paper soaking. Can you soak the sticky-backed paper as well before applying? Or would you apply the paper to the longboard and then soak the board/paper as a unit? Again, thanks for all the time, effort, and knowledge you share!
To be honest I’m not sure on that one I typically am only using the block with the sticky back on only the big flat surfaces so we just stick it directly to the block and use a lot of water you’ll still want to do the detailed areas with something smaller and more flexible anyhow. Thanks again for the compliment much appreciated
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS The least I could do for the wealth of knowledge you are providing. I get what you are saying. Just use lots of water. 🙂
You said that hood has 4-5 coats of high solid clear. I'm curious if that was wet on wet or flow coated after two coats. Love your channel keep up the great work.
Wet on wet. The reason we don’t do flow coats unless we have to is because A lot of people think if you do let’s just say three coats one day and then come back after sanding and flow coat another three coats you do not have six coats to sand you only have 3. But if I do five coats or more back to back then you have that amount that you can actually block down to get completely flat. When it comes to flash times you will want to extend the flash time a little bit longer depending on your temperature after every coat. Hope that helps
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS It did thanks for taking time to respond.
Thank you !!!!!
Fantastic.
Thank you
You know how detailers use iron remover spray does that damage clear coat or the better way to remove iron would be with a clay bar
Yes you are absolutely correct. It ruins clear coat.
do i need to clean the wool pad after each use or just spur before next use? using angelwax which is water based like csi.
I clean it a couple times a day if it gets loaded up
one last question. how do you deal with the trickey areas that you mentioned that are difficult to sand and or polish if we aren't talking absolute show car??
What grit should I use on a 2012 escape
Start with 1500/2000 on new cars to be safe
Be mindful that the car manufacturers use very little clear coat compared to what you see in restoration like these builds. You can cut through very quickly. Then it's a repaint.
Can you use rubbing alcohol mixed with water instead of a detail spray in between wipe downs?
In between wipe downs use a waterborne wax and grease remover
I do! 50/50 Why Not?
main active ingredient in water borne cleaner is isopropyl alcohol
Maybe I missed it but how many coats of clear was on that car before you started with 600? I know it being a high solids you had some room but was curious
There is four coats of VC 5700 show clear from the PPG vibrance line. It’s a lot thicker than any of your Euro clears.
Sorry i meant to ask, is there a reason you dont use a mist of water during the cutting stage with the wool to reduce heat?
I’ve never had a need to if you are creating heat you are either pushing to hard or don’t have enough compound.
I'm painting my first motorcycle tank (using the best rattle can paint I could find.) . My paint looks pretty good but it seems to have a little texture or orange peel. Can I lightly sand it with 2000 before putting clear coat on, or is that a no no?
Rattle can I’d say no
What are your thoughts on the 3m one step system? thank you for your video.
When I used wax and grease remover on 3M I’d say it has more fillers than CSI
The water from wet sanding doesn't wash the guide coat away when checking?
No it doesn’t
What are your thoughts on 3M Trizact 3000 with a DA?
It will for sure leave pigtail scratches we do all of our hand sanding. 600 grit through 3000.
We need to do an updated video on this. We no longer do our polishing this particular way.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Do you have an updated video on this? Thanks.
@@ajd5363 yes we do
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS can you post a link or help me find it?
Can you just use baby powder for a guide coat?
No why would you??
good morning... question... I have a 75 chevy that has never been repainted. still has the factory single stage paint. it has never been polished or refurbished or freshened at all. the car has always been under cover AND in a garage. I'd like to make it shine better. is there a process to do that? this has NO clear on the car at all. never has had clear coat. Thank You for your time...
Start with 2000 grit and follow the steps in video
what brand polisher is that i like the knob end instead of a handle
Griots
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS is the black rotary polisher a griots?? because they only sell red random orbit polishers now, love the black 7/9 inch rotary with knob end no handle ill have to look for a used one thanks Dan
What's do you use when cleaning a foam pad? Won't the spur tool tear the foam.
I hold it at a slight angle and barely touch it. Most of the dry chunks I pick off by hand
I've had good luck using warm or hot water and rubbing it in with my hand to loosen up the dried polish then shake and spin it dry. A little messy so I like to do it by someone I work with. 😏
So im to this point on my truck. Clear has been on the bed for nearly a month. Its super hard and imhad a little more orangepeel than im use to either from the high summer temps and humidity or possibly a gun issue with my sata 4000 but 800 grit is taking FOREVER. Can i go to 600? If so... what can i jump to from there? I have 800, 1000 and 1500 already bought. Do i need something else?
Depends on how much clear you have on the truck. As long as it’s accounted for in thickness yes 600 can be done carefully to not burn through. You need every grit up to 3k to do it perfect
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS 4 coats
Another great video. I have seen detailers tape off an adjacent panel edge to keep from burning an edge. Do you recommend anything like that?
If you are doing everything correctly you won’t need to. We don’t because in order for the mirror finish you will be able to see the edge you taped.
was that black pad also 3m?
Yes it was
I have always been sceptical about ceramic coating products. First, the products do not actually contain ceramic. All are silicone based instead of bees or carnauba wax. Therefore "ceramic" is a catchy name used for marketing. I also don't believe the claim that the application will make the clear coat harder. Is there any proof that? I would like to hear your thoughts. Thanks so much!
Honest opinion I’ve never used it as of yet. I myself would love to learn more. I’ll be holding a class this January with Jason Killmer he’s one of the best in color sand and polish he will know. Once we go through it I’ll do a video on it 👍🏻
So what I gather is if you(me actually) are doing a great paint job on a car taking 6 months could be a good thing. To let everything dry/cure correctly???
Yes!
Hey Homie did you work for UP? Lol I used to work for them in Northern Cali.
Yep I sure did. I used to work in northern Cali also. Lol
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Roseville lol 😂
How do you remove tattoos?
Wtf
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I know, it's a bitch.
Why do paint guys always use the classic buffer but detailer use DA or random orbital
Because orbital does not remove as much material and if you were not the guy who painted the car, you have no idea how much clear is on it. Detail guys most of the time we’re not brought up understanding the paint process.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS WOW knowledge
Click bait or cat fished! I can’t tell. Lol
🤣🤣🤣got em!!
You forgot your apron 😁
This isn’t Martha Stewart cooking network 🤣
Great info, but gotta be honest, would of been better with the pretty lady in the thumbnail doing the demonstration, just sayin....
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Agreed!
Why do you say that a high solid clear is better but then say to use a 2:1 clear? Wouldn't a 4:1 be better as it has more clear in the mix (twice as much compared to a 2:1) ? A 2:1 is going to be 50% hardener / catalyst whereas a 4:1 is only going to be 25%.
Negative. 2:1 is more solids a 4:1 ratio is reduced way more. Look at the mixing cup.
@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS the math is pretty straight forward, 2:1 is 2 parts paint (clear) and 1 part hardener meaning for every 2 gallons of paint there is 1 gallon of hardener. 4:1 is 4 gallons of paint for 1 gallon hardener meaning the paint is diluted less in a 4:1 mix ?
..unfortunately,...those rocks bouncing out of that landscaping contractor's dump truck don't care.
Jesse James has a clone...
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It's ok to plug items, saying "this is not a plug" while clearly plugging stuff is weird.. plug stuff you like, as long as you're honest about the item and it's quality it's all good...
In my opinion a plug would be if I’m getting paid to plug it which I am not
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS that would be a sponsored plug/ad... plugging an item is just the showing and use of a product that you go on to recommend.. there's nothing wrong with either as long as you're honest about the results.. Ive found some great products through plugs
Good video but if I can make a suggestion ..you talked 6 to 1 versus your action man ..I know you want to help , Too much talking and not enough showing!!… as the old saying goes SHOW and tell!!… keep up the good work
There’s a completely updated video on this dropping next week. Older videos of ours weren’t as good. We gotta start somewhere
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Good to hear I’m looking forward to seeing the update
I think videos are perfect the way they are you doing great by explaining processes do and don’ts That help people understand why things are done certain way specially DIY thanks fir sharing you experience 👍👍
Click bait
😘
Where’s the pretty girl? Lol’s. Very good video with very good information. But…I noticed when you put the sandpaper on the block you laid the sandpaper on the bench. The bench had a lot of “stuff” on it including a grinder. Just saying. Anyway a beautiful paint and polish job!
I feel totally ripped off the hot bird wasn’t in the vid bud? Booooo
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