45RFE Valvebody Overhaul
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- In this video, i overhaul a 45RFE Valvebody, going over checkball locations, talking about the solenoid switch valve, and solenoid pack. This valvebody came through with an early solenoid pack(black connector) i updated it and reinstalled the later solenoid pack(white connector) and slide plate.
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If I want to rebuild valve body, which is the best place to order from?
How to know my valve body is the the problem not solenoid pack i have a problem in shifting from 3rd to 4th gear delay and rpm goes up but if leave my accelerator pedal every thing are smooth
2013 RAM 1500 2wd , trans went up twice and now for the 3rd time and on a rebuilt trans with updated internals. They say it's a bad valve body and covered under warranty, but of course it fried 4 & 5th gear. I'm done with RAM and the 65rfe
wow, how many miles on the truck?
@@GaryFerraro 104,000 but this is the 3rd time. The first time I just went with a used one, 2nd time I did the "upgraded" rebuild. It's only been a yr since the rebuild, so it's covered. I can't figure it out but I'm done. Not to mention the motor was rebuilt at 32,000 under warranty. The valves were mushrooming and causing misfires. Needless to say, this is it for me.
@@teaminfiniti4105 sounds like the valves were shimmed to loose…that allows for jumping inside the retainer causing the keepers to slam back in their grooves which in turn causes mushrooming as the cam comes around pushing down on the lifter. That too causes excessive wear to the cams and lifters. A single Cam is much more pricey than a new set of valves and lifters combined. :-(
@@myownm8898 It's gone now, after the 3rd time that was it for me
@@teaminfiniti4105 after reading all the problems you had, can’t say I blame you.
At 31:00 you're installing the solenoid pack.
On the black switch end of the solenoid pack, there is a fixed pin that protrudes into the manual valve bore. The pin is a part of the black plastic switch section's molding.
Do you know the purpose of this pin's presence in the molding of the solenoid pack's switch housing section?
The only thing could surmise is some kind of safety stop that would come into effect, but only if the steel pin on the manual valve were somehow sheared off, and the manual valve was then able to slide to the left end (outer end) of the manual valve bore.
Good job, My Jeep grand cherokee '02 4.7 4x4 with 269,000 miles.no 3rd and 4 gear can you help me,
No 3rd and 4th only cold or all the time? what happens when it should shift into 3rd? how is reverse?
@@GaryFerraro all time , moving 1st to 2nd smooth, after 2nd increase high r.m.p 3000 then weak torque and reduce moving , the reverse excellent.
@@walidalzarouk4887 I know it's a year late, but your overdrive clutch is burned up.
Another great video so helpful
Thanks Graham
Hi Gary, please help. I have a 545rfe on a 2005 Jeep KJ CRD. No reverse and the car sometimes stalls on engaging drive /2/1 . Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
for anyone who knows . i also removed the screw just to the left of the arrow pointing 2 oclock on the bottom right corner. the one that sits in the raised pillar about 1/2 in taller than the rest of the valve body base. i didnt notice any screws being shorter but this screw does not want to thread all the way down and i dont want to break something. i see threads only in the pillar , but not past the raised area. do i need a shorter screw? is it designed to hold the gaset down in that area?if so it appears to be to long for that.
I have a 2007 Jeep commander with 257,000 miles. Replace the solenoid pack two years ago. Just recently it stuck into 4th gear. Can’t remember the codes it’s giving me but can get them. I was told by a local trans shop to first check the filters and another said I should inspect and clean the valve body. Which would you recommend?
The other issue is that periodically the transmission will kick while driving when driving down the highway and kill the engine. I had to place it into neutral, pull off the road, place in park, turn off the power, crank the engine over, place it in drive and away I go. So weird. I have no idea why it’s doing that either. Please help
Thanks
Hey sir, I was wondering what type of compound did you put on the accumulators?
I thank you very much
do you mean to hold the rings in place?
At 7:55 you were using a spring loaded center punch were you marking where the check balls go?
Yes, bought it from snap-on
This is a great video! My truck shifts hard into 4th it revs about an extra 600 rpms then finally shifts I already replaced the solenoid pack and it didn’t help should I rebuild or replace the clutch pack?
That sounds like an internal problem, if it revs before it goes in, that is called a flared shift
Oh ok, I guess I will look into that then. Thanks
@@joelewis2351 are there any codes?
Gary Ferraro nope it hasn’t thrown a single code, I did unplug the sensor on the passenger side and it then doesn’t do it but it seems to shift early. It bothers me less than the flare shift though and I’ve been driving it that way for about a year I tried to replace that sensor still did same thing
I have a 2003 Ram 4.7 liter with the 545rfe trans, no transmission codes or nothing. The problem I'm having is if I'm traveling around 40 mph and put the gas to the floor to pass another vehicle, it's like the transmission has no real override power, other than that it shifts normally
Does it seem to run hotter than normal, thinking maybe a restriction in the exhaust if you feel there is no power
@@GaryFerraro no its at normal temperature, but I do have a aftermarket Flowmaster muffler that's about 10 yrs old
@@chrisbrown6804 You may want to look into that, Power should come from your engine may have a restriction there.
Gary Ferraro ok will do appreciate the info
Great Video! I do have one question. Whats the purpose of using the center punch before you removed the check balls? Is that to identify where they go?
Yes, i like to mark the locations, after i center punch then i flat sand the casting
@@GaryFerraro I have a serious question I've looked all over the web and I can not seem to find the answer but those 7 silver bolts on the bottom of the plate with all the black skrews what should those be torqed to I accidentally started unskrewing those and I don't know what they need to be torqed to PLEASE HELP
I started doing it before I even knew your videos existed I was trying to replace the black plug to the white plug. I did it and I put it all back together and now it won't go more than 2 mph and i can't find the specs for the 7 bolts I found a PDF for 45rfe transmission and it doesn't say anything I'm about ready to just junk the whole dang vehicle
@@gojonny1629 Those are pressure tap fittings, just tighten down til tight, no need to torque, it's only a fitting not a valvebody bolt. You have to be very careful when installing the valvebody can easily miss the manual valve where it hooks to the linkage. The car does not move?
@@GaryFerraro the reverse works fine but anything forward not so much
Also i am having to replace 6 of the torlon checkballs not sure what had happened to them I found one in it when I was working on it but didn't know what it was untill I was looking for the new range sensor selector plate
@@gojonny1629 What year is this, there is either 5 or 7 check balls
At 12:42 you remove the L/R Switch Valve.
On my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ, I deemed it necessary to inspect the valve body due to a strange shift condition to/from OD, a kind of stutter.
This WJ is at just under 300k miles. At 216k, I had the trans rebuilt by a shop, personal friend, and the solenoid pack was updated to white connector, along with plate, etc.
That pal is now deceased, so I to go this alone, no biggie, as I did this engine, and another WJ I have, plus all maintenance on these plus TBird and Trailblazer.
I found 2 of the valve body screws to the solenoid pack were laying in the pan on the magnet, possibly allowing crossflow under the pack, causing the weirdness.
In any event, I obtain a new Mopar pack, and TransGo ring/expander/plate/ kit with L/R valve and plug.
Under the accum plate, the plug was removed to reveal "no L/R switch valve" present.
The valve bore was simply empty, and the plug cap had been in place.
Foolishly, I installed the L/R switch valve from the TransGo kit, and new plug. The installed valve easily slid into and out of the bore, with no binding, and with the plug cap in place, it was flush with the face of the accumulator plate face.
With new filters, solenoid pack and plate (no difference in selector plate, but new), all reinstalled, and new ATF+4, it was found that the transmission worked perfectly in all respects, except NO REVERSE gear.
Studying the hydraulic circuit diagrams, it was apparent to me that the Reverse Clutch was applying, but the L/N/R clutch was not activating, hence, the transmission was effectively in Neutral (the LNR is fed by the MS solenoid valve). The MS valve is only used elsewhere in higher gears.
So, please explain why installing the piece that every document I could find, including Jeep 2000 WJ Factory Service manual, TransGo, TransTec, transmission school documents, and the Dodge Dakota 45RFE manual section ALL SHOW this part as being installed, and necessary?
It is physically impossible to install 2 switch valves into the bore, along with the cap. There simply is not enough length for 2 to fit.
Plus, the new valve is magnetic, and easily fished out of the bore with a magnet, or by covering the L/R feed to the clutch and pushing in the L/R piston, which pops out the plug, and the valve.
I removed the valve body again, today, removed the installed L/R Switch Valve, replaced the plug, plate, torqued all, ohmed out all the solenoids, just to be sure, reinstalled all, refilled ATF+4, and now Reverse, and all else, works exactly correctly.
WHY is this valve required when it works fine without it? Why is it shown in your video? Why is there no revers, in my installation, when this valve is in place?
Thanks for video.
When you flat sand between the two heads, what grit of sandpaper is that block?
Im thinking maybe 240, looking at stones online
Hello I have one of these transmission throwing a p0733 and p0734 and just coming out of 3rd gear would that be a accumulator spring issue ?
What year is the vehicle
2015 6 speed dodge ram 1500 2wd has the same valve body as shown in your video
Probably not a spring issue, Overdrive clutch may be bad, what is the condition of the fluid? Does your scan tool show live data?
Fluid was Burnt but no major build up in the trans pan or on the magnet I did notice the slide plate for the solenoid has deep grooves in it have one order the company I used for the upgrade solenoid didn't offer it with the new plate
It wouldn't come with it. What type of scanner do you have? would like to know what the overdive(o/d) CVI(clutch volume index) is. Wear on the clutch pack is displayed by a number
Awesome video!! Do you have to have any programming done after upgrading the solenoid pack and TRS Plate ??
i know it is kinda randomly asking but do anyone know of a good place to watch newly released tv shows online?
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So I just did all that, installed the TransGo kit to it also, but did not sand the valves as you do in minute 13:30. Saw this video only after unfortunately.
What is the reason for doing the sanding, if the bodies are not warped? And since I have not installed it back, should I take it apart and do the sanding?
Thanks!
I like to flat sand to avoid cross leaks
@@GaryFerraro Awesome thanks! And its fine to leave it dry inside after assembly? Or should I add some transmission fluid?
Thanks!
@@ivanvujadinovic9905 you could put some fluid onto the valves, that's fine
@@GaryFerraro Sound good, thanks! And awesome video, I really appreciate seeing someone do it properly and not cutting corners. Thank you!
@@ivanvujadinovic9905 Thanks for watching
Hi Gary, just asking, is the valve body supposed to rattle when you shake it side to side after removing it from the transmission? I'm guessing it's the check balls or springs moving around? Or is everything supposed to be tight? Many thanks Dean
you are probably hearing the accumulator springs moving, no worries on that
@@GaryFerraro thank you that's great to know, I've found a rebuild kit for the transmission, comes complete with steels and pistons also,
Also located a front cover, I believe they come complete with the 2 o rings??
Not sure 100% on that, how do you receive them?
@@DJsGarageHomeandBuilds Yes, new cover has the seals on it, i always replace the cover, be very careful installing the cover, a little tricky, i use the transgel and STP oil treatment to install it
@@GaryFerraro your a great guy thank you very much for all your help, time and information, for reassembly I'm guessing soak all the friction plates over night in the atf plus 4 oil? Lube o rings and seals etc, will I need to connect a snap on scanner to reprogram or relearn the transmission? Many thanks Dean
@@DJsGarageHomeandBuilds yes, with a scan tool do a Quick learn. Watch the thickness , i believe the overdrive clutch (middle pack in the input drum) are thicker than the underdrive and reverse clutches. If your clutch clearances are not correct trans may not work correctly
Does check ball can effect shifting and causing slippage
if missing or in wrong spot i would say yes
It’s never repaired before, but some people said it may do that due to worm valve body check ball, i can’t really diagnose where this slippage from, clutch index not bad except UD clutch 100 i think it’s also in range i have error code p374 fourth gear ratio
Did you think accumulator piston can do that
@@atefcables4607 when does it slip and are there any codes?
Have a code p734 slip only when shifting from 3rd to 4th gear but when engaged to 4th gear not slippage
Hi there , I have a 2007 4.7l . 2wd dodge ram 1500 , and its having a shudder in overdrive pretty much between 40 to 50 mph.. could this be a torque converter problem or should I focus more on the valve body and solenoid pack ...
Any codes
@@GaryFerraro no codes for a regular obd2 reader , idk with a professional scanner could show something
@@jimmyestrada2310 Does it feel like your driving over rumble strips?
Oh yes. Definitely
What do you think of the (5)45RFE as a modern transmission? Better than most, about the same, worse? I know you work on pretty much everything, so I'm curious how you'd say they hold up compared to what the other brands are making.
Those transmissions are not bad, some issues with the solenoid pack, but other than that they are pretty good units, fairly simple to work on also
Seems to be the opinion I hear, which is good considering my Durango has one. Mine went at about 180,000 miles. I got the truck with 112,000, but knew there had been a damaged pan on it as it was replaced because it had a bad leak, so I knew it would go at some point, but expected it to last longer. But since the shop was unable to get the unit they rebuilt to not leak somewhere, inside or out, I ended up getting a brand new from Chrysler unit for the price they quoted me for a rebuilt unit. This was after I picked up the truck and it was gushing fluid out of the bell housing at higher RPMs :( But it ended well I guess.
My hope is that if I take care of it, make sure it always has enough good fluid and clean filters, that I'll hopefully never have to take it out of the truck again, at least not for a very long time. At least the solenoid pack can be changed with it still in the truck.
If you change the solenoid pack do you have to Chan he the plate also even tho you already had the white connector ???
No, that should be the updated one already, only the black connector the plate would be changed
Gary Ferraro ok thank you Gary is because I’m having problems getting reverse and on neutral truck goes forward
@@JavierGarcia-zq8ft Thats not a solenoid pack, one of your clutch packs is locked together causing this problem
Gary Ferraro even if the truck still works on drive and changes gears good?? I don’t want to rate it down just cuz
@@JavierGarcia-zq8ft Clutch is locked on for sure
do you have to have new slide plate with new shift solenoid?
Not in stock at the moment. What problem are you having that you need a solenoid pack?
@@GaryFerraro I bought a solenoid pack and installed it after clearing codes it still gives p0733 I have reverse first second gear no slipping it will not go into overdrive like its in limp mode
im thinking valve body...ur professional advice would be greatly appreciated sir.
@@rennylightfoot2136 I feel that your Overdrive clutch is no good, what was the condition of the fluid?
@@GaryFerraro was normal had sludge like stuff on the valve body also when i changed the shift solenoid i did not know until i watched your video that it was a must to change the flat plat with white plug solenoid as well..so it has white plug solenoid with the old flat plate...and flat bar that holds the springs in was caked with something idk what..lol
Are transmission lasting longer these days then say early 90s
No, not really, the way they are making the valvebodies and solenoids now, they are wearing out causing all kinds of shifting problems
@@GaryFerraro that’s what happens with aluminum and plastic and all sorts of other inferior materials. Aren’t those engineers just geniuses. SMH
@@myownm8898 Thanks for watching lol
only on way the 7 balls go in the circle lot
yes
Great Vid!!
545 ud