No bands in this transmission. So was the only thing keeping this from working properly the 2-3 clutch pack? If you would have just replaced those clutches would it have worked again?
I have a 2003 dodge ram 2500 5.7 it's throwing a p0700 and a p0733 code what do u think it could be I've changed out the tcm and the filter and fluids what do u think it might be?
Thank you for posting a very well-put-together teardown video this transmission. It's helping a lot understand the inner workings of what I'm trying to diagnose currently. A 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 Hemi motor with a 545RFE. It came in originally for an overheat situation well pulling a trailer uphill. While testing the cooling system found no fault with any of the engine or cooling components. Radiator, thermostat, fan clutch, and coolant have recently been replaced. While loading the engine in gear it started having a transmission issues. When put in gear no longer moves in any shifter position. P0841 now in TCM. Transmission fluid is full and dark. Clear codes and try again and now have P0944. Well monitoring line pressure in any position TCM reads 34 PSI in all gears and RPMs. Found TSB regarding filters. Replace both filters in fluid and found no change in response. Do you have any insight that might help me resolve this fault? Also, is it possible the transmission could have been overheating and causing the engine to overheat while pulling a trailer?
Hey Gary, thanks for the in-depth video on the tear down that isn’t at lightning speed like a few others out there! I have a channel on RUclips as well and one of the things I find myself doing often is working on dodge trucks big and small. I started rebuilding my wife’s 45RFE awhile back, before I found out a great deal of important parts are no longer available. I am still going to finish with what I have but is there an east solve for this in the future? I’m no stranger to making hybrid vehicles but with all the computer controlled stuff these days… what are the options? Scrap the whole thing? Seems a LOT of folks are.
@@GaryFerraro well on this 45RFE I can tell it’s been gone through at least once in the past because all the pistons are the stamped steel versions and not the aluminum castings. Due to wear and burning I had to source a new low roller clutch, the friction plate between UD/OD and the OD outer friction ring. The outer was sourced as a new item off eBay that says it has additional steel on the friction surface compared to OE. I don’t even know if that’s accurate, or a good thing. The UD/OD plate I could not find new, anywhere. Nor the standard redesign that came after. I found 1 used one in southern AZ that actually looks new. My final problem is my rebuild kit that supplied the steels and friction materials. The kit supposedly covers 45/545/65/66/68RFE 2C, 4C and rev but the clutch matierial (color and direction of pattern) boggles my mind. There are too many red (brown) discs and not enough black. Am I to mix and match however I fancy? Doesn’t seem right and neither my manual nor the tech sheet updates I’ve found address anything of this nature. I really appreciate it if you could help clarify this one. This is the first automatic I have attempted and given the struggle, will likely be the last. The important part is… it’s my wife’s truck and she wants it back, like last month. Haha
Hi Gary, great video and very informative. I'm having issues with my 545RFE giving a P0734 code. I have replaced the valve body assembly with a rebuilt unit, the shift solenoid with an OEM Mopar unit, both speed sensors, and the pressure sensor. lasted about fifty miles before throwing the same code. Has issues staying in five gear when under light load going up a grade and sometimes sticks in fourth gear even after coming to a complete stop. Only way to get back to first gear is to shut it off and restart the truck. Once I do that it acts like nothing happened. Opinion please, replace the clutch pack, fluid change and torque converter? 2009 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4. Thank you.
Hello Gary I have a question for you about the Dodge 545rfe I do transmission service to it new secondary filter primary filter and also check the valve body accumulator plate on the side of the valve body that I know is known for being bent when the screw backs out nothing of that has been found everything was clean put a new court gasket on it filled it up with fluid drove it around and then after we parked it and went to drive it again we started it and it started whining extremely loudly any idea or any other direction I may be able to look at it is fine in Reverse but it struggles in Drive for a few seconds and then it'll drive normal but it just whines really loudly
@@GaryFerraro yes sir it whines in all gears. And the filters are from o reillys. Just strange that I've never had a problem in the past with these bit could just be a defective one very possible.
I also have a problem with my 545rfe. My problem is odd. If I press the OD/OFF button I have perfect shifts throughout, I'm just not using OD. If I push the button for OD it will slip and go into limp mode. If I'm correct third gear and OD clutches are the same? My question is, why do I have 3rd and not OD?
My fiancé’s truck is having trouble he says it’s from the transmission. He thinks it’s the solenoid pack. Basically some times it runs just fine then all of a sudden it turns super sluggish and doesn’t want to go into his highest gear. 60mph at 3500-3600 rpm’s his truck has 213000 on it. What would you suggest he try just a solenoid pack or complete rebuild?
hey great video. Do you know if this trans is the same internally (and therefore same take down process) as the 45RFE dodge trans? just curious thank you
Hello angela, Basically yes it is the same, they reprogrammed the PCM to get the 5th gear. Thanks for watching, please subscribe. Any transmission questions just let me know. Gary
Around the 37 minute mark, you mention that you can use the white connector solenoid (with slider plate) on earlier models that had the black connector. Could you use a black connector solenoid on a newer model that has a bad white connector solenoid?
What is the Torque Converter Clutch Soleniod?? I had a P0740 on my 2004 Durango, same transmission, 545rfe. I’m finding different pictures online on what the part actually is and what it looks like. Confused.
That is part of the solenoid pack inside the trans. This code means that the converter can no longer fully lock-up. This is a mechanical code. could be a converter problem, pump problem, solenoid problem or something like a leak in the TCC circuit
Hey Gary. Thanks for the video. I am going to be putting in a reman'ed Mopar pump in my 545RFE when I change the torque converter. I am getting the Sonnax 44912-01 TCC Accumulator spring to replace the one that comes in the reman'ed pump (Sonnax is supposedly made of "upgraded material increases spring strength" and rated for more duty cycles). My question comes in since I am also installing the TransGo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Shift Kit and it comes with a spring set to go in the same TCC Accumulator. Should I just install the Sonnax 44912-01 instead of the TransGo springs there? Also, the TransGo kit comes with their own TCC Limit Valve parts (ball, spring, plunger). Seeing as this is a reman'ed pump, should i install those or leave them out? (thought i heard those were for the older pumps, but i am not sure). Thanks for any help.
The 2005 units dont really have issues, the very early units do, i dont do much to the later units. Looks like the kit comes with a valve line up, i would put the transgo kit in. Im not sure about the older pumps, you would have to see what the instructions say
Gary Ferraro Yeah. The reman'ed pump is the newer version with the seal in the pump cover. So you'd put the TC Limit Valve parts that come in the TransGo 45RFE -HD2 kit in too? They are a spring, a ball , and a plunger. They replace the Limit Valve parts that come in the pump. Thanks for your time.
When you open this trans if you found, aluminum shavings in the pan where would you look, and mine was not shifting into third. Also I have to assume those aluminum pieces are throughout the trans, so my question is should I rebuild the thing or should I buy a rebuilt. Of course money is a problem. I'm sure I can swing 1200 to 1500 for rebuilt but. I want to make sure it's not something I can fix. I mean unless its aluminum from the casing then it should be rebuildable right.
@@GaryFerraro yes exactly right like it ben shifted to neutral, yes codes p0700 p0733 p0740. I got the transfer case out and transmission out yesterday I got to go return the trans jack then I think I might tear into it.
It is yes, make sure the connection is ok, if your going to change out the solenoid pack, you may want to change the slide plate(or also may be called cam plate)
Nice video. Was wondering if you found any reason why that clutch pack burned up. Or do you think it was more a matter of the owner driving too hard with too much of a load? Clutches are one of those things where it can be hard to tell if they were the problem or just a symptom of another problem.
Ah. I'm more of an engine guy. With engines it can be easier to find a "smoking gun". Is it common to tear down a trans and not necessarily find a "root cause"?
Hi Gary, I've got a mid 2003 Jeep grand cherokee 4.7 ho, it lost drive the other week, oil leaking from in between the bell housing and engine, I've removed the transmission and pulled the torque converter off, the o ring on the hub of the converter looks very worn out, I've also removed the front pump seal where the torque converter goes through into the transmission, is it possible that it's just those 2 seals are my problem or shall I dig deeper into the transmission? Can't think what else would cause the oil leaking besides those 2 seals obviously losing the oil pressure followed by loss of drive?? Any input or help will be greatly appreciated, many thanks Dean
Sweet video. My 07 Grand Cherokee doesn't kick into gear. I can hear the output shaft of the trans and input on the t-case grind, like it wants to go into gear. I replaced the transfer case itself, the motor and computer and nothing changed. To put it in park, i have to shut the car off and then put it in park or they will grind badly. The car moves in 4-low but not 4-high and there are no codes. If the car goes into park, it still rolls like it's in neutral. Could it be a bad pump? Thanks in advance. PS Another guy told me the modulator valve was bad and claimed it was on the side of the trans and I noticed you never said anything about the valve.
No Modulator valve. when you put the car in drive(and it doesn't move) does the speedometer go up? Anything turning that you can see when in drive with no movement, something is broken
@@NativeNation40 You can't put that in park because the gears in the trans are spinning, maybe drop the pan, see if any debris is in the pan, just to confirm, transfer case is NOT in Neutral?
@@GaryFerraro I can do that. Say the transfer case is in neutral, how would i get it in gear if that entire section was replaced? I.E. transfer case, motor and control module. And it moves in 4-low. That's what confuses me.
So What Causes This Clutch To Fail? Is It Normal To Have Low Line Pressure From Having A Burned Up Clutch? I Did A Tranmssion Fluid Change And Trans Go Shift Kit Installed into Valve Body. After That Trans Wouldn't Go Into Any Gears Without Revving Engine Up. Eventually It Smoked The L/R Clutch. I Had loss Of Prime DTCs And Pressure Switch Rationality DTCs. My Question Is Did This Happen Becasue Fluid Had Clutch Material In It Helping Clutches Hold And With New Fluid It Just Slipped, Burned Clutch And Caused Loss Of Prime Etc. OR Did The Clutch Burn Up Because Of Loss Of Prime And Low Line Pressure?
Salvatore Hayes clutch can fail from normal wear and tear the overdrive clutch is a weak point. When you have loss of prime codes either it's low on fluid or the filter may be restricted which can cause low line pressure
Hay what tool do you recommend to pull torque converter on a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 there is almost no room because of the engine cradle thinks gary
Hi, thanks for this video. If I rebuilt my own transmission, would I have to run a quick relearn or reprogram the transmission before I drive it? Just wondering because i dont have one of those expensive scanners. Thanks
Hi Mr. Ferraro. Got a 2004 Durango 4.7, it was working fine and the next morning it didn´t move. No R, no D. Just a little attempt to move if you accelerate to 2000 RPM, but that's all. Any advice? Thank you, best regards.
Hi Gary, know this is an old video but hope you are able to assist as I can't find anything based on my symptoms. I drive a Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 545rfe. When I engage drive or reverse the engine will stall, if I move through the gear selector and put it in park the RPM will also drop but then recover. If I gently give some gas when engaging gears, it won't die. On highway speeds cruising with my foot gently on the gas, I can see (RPM) and feel the lockup clutch engaging and disengaging (repeats). Going through the gears everything feels perfect. Those springs in the pump that you say break. That is all I can think of, unless the pressure sensor outside the box can cause the same issue? No transmission codes. What would the likely culprit be and can I drive it in this way without hurting something else? Thanks in advance and hopefully someone will also benefit from this.
@@GaryFerraro only saw your reply now. yes the engine starts up as expected. Previously when the car was warm and you shift out of gear then back into D it will have a harsh engagement where the car will jurk forward. If that spring breaks, what are other symptoms and will I have smooth gear shifts when driving?
@@pottaz A Broken TCC Limit Valve may have a hard engagement because it may be trying to stall the engine. A Broken TCC Accumulator valve spring will make it have a hard TCC Engagement
@@GaryFerraro okay thank you I do appreciate the input. All these symtoms only happens when I have driven around for a while. If the vehicle is warmed up. As you mentioned the possible culprits, will they only effect the vehicle when it has been driven around for a while or when you start the vehicle it will immediately cause issues
Hi, thank you for a very informative video, my main question is can you pull the pump without removing the valve body? Is there another way to get that cover plate off since I believe my pump is ruined and trashed. What I put it in gear I had a bang and then all I hear in park reverse neutral and all Drive gears is a whining sound. Which tells me it's probably the pump or at least I hope it is my concern is do I have to turn to transmission down to remove the pump? Thanks for your time
Gary Ferraro awesome sir! Thank you so much for your reply! I know the videos older, but with the whining in all gears I'm thinking pump.... Would you most likely concur? I'm really hoping it's just that
Gary Ferraro no sir,no movement at all. Start it and all I hear is a whine. Shift I to reverse or drive and it idles slightly higher with a higher whine. In drive it'll roll backwards even with a little throttle applied. Put into park and shit the car off and the last thing you hear as the motor shuts down is the whine. Not sure if it's the TC or pump. I believe the motors not spinning when I shut it off, but its still whining in the trans. Hmm... Maybe not the pump?
03 Dodge Ram 4.7 liter 2wd 545rfe trans, i want to change the old fluid to Amsoil ATF, do u think its smart to flush the trans from the cooler line at the trans or just change the 6 quarts with the filters
I never liked pulling off cooler line, always afraid something may happen to the pump, I would just drop the pan, there are 2 filters, main sump and cooler return filters if you wanted to change
I have the same trans in my 04 ram 2500 4x4.. I have the cold weather problems were you put into drive or reverse in morning or cold weather it won't move until warmed up or if I step onto throttle. Also come to stop light rpms fall too 500 rpms and I feel shuttering in steering wheel. But other than that shifts drives fine.. thinking either trans pump or torque converter I have no codes..
Rob Tutela Jr Almost sounds like it's draining back overnight Take a look at the dipstick where the full mark is usually when the trans is full it will be two and half inches above the full mark engine off. What I need for you to do is in the morning before you start the car pull the stick out. Wipe it clean and check the fluid level do this when the car is stone cold see how far above the full mark it is.
@@GaryFerraro so if i go out to my truck right now without it runnin cold pull my dipstick it should be over the full 21/2 inch ? What if its below ? Should i add some?
Great video thanks.....if I repower the wagon can this auto run without a computer or any sensors from the engine if new engine does not have them on ? cheers Brett
@@kermets - DodgeChryslerJeep had a transmission controller for this trans for use with their diesel engines that did not have an ECM. You will find those useful for your project. Seriously, the computer or aftermarket racing computer can run the trans and your engine much better than a BS carb electronic ign setup. You are much further ahead for power and economy running an ECM on a build. Carbs and distributor ignitions are dark ages BS and in most cases more trouble than they are worth. Consider some aftermarket ECM solutions. Cheaper and more reliable.
@claudepgh - thanks for that, Im ok with electronics I just do not like my CR diesel as there are no spare parts cheap here, So wanted to put a 5 cylinder Merc motor that has a manual injector pump and still wanted to use the Auto trans thats in it as its 4wd.
hey thanks for the video. Ive got an 06 dodge ram with the same transmission I drove it to work one day and when I went to go leave it wont go anyway it shifts into the gears but wont move. could that be caused by the pump failure? or is there a sensor that could have gone bad?
Gary Ferraro yea happened all of a sudden with no warning! And the fluid level is about maybe 1/2-1 quart level high when running when I put it in reverse it kicks back but won't go anywhere and if I put it in drive it kicks forward but won't move either
Doesnt seem like a pump problem, sounds like something may have snapped inside the trans or maybe a spline stripped, any movement in manual 1 or manual 2?
I got a used pump assembly for my unit but cant seem to get it to seat. pulled stator out and it slides all the way home so its obviously the pump body against the case thats tight. Hate to beat it home. Any suggestions Gary?
Something else may be out of place if that pump is not sitting flat, if you look through the input speed sensor hole does the exciter ring look centered?
@@GaryFerraro thanks for the fast reply. I tapped it home gently and all seems well except now after installing, I have strong reverse, it works great but drive is in limp mode and no 2 or 1. I did not replace any sensors or solenoid pack. Does this sound electrical to you
@@jspat67 There has to be another code other than the P0700, this is a generic code meaning you have transmission trouble codes stored. Do you have access to a good scanner like a snap-on or autel?
@@GaryFerraro Yes we put a snap on scanner on it and thats the only code i am getting. Ran tranny thru 14 step test C1 C2 etc... all is working correctly. trans definetly stuck in limp. have a reman solenoid pack coming today after i bathe in synthetic oil..why me.
Hi i replaced my transmission on a 2005 jeep grand cherokee laredo 3.7l 4wd and is like stock on one gear is like 2nd or 3rd i am not sure. But first i thought i got a bad triny and got another one but it did the something. I clear the codes and bought a TCM that was progrmaed to my vin# but i still have the same problem. Any tips that can help me?
@@jorgeo6572 If you clear the code does it come right back. Usually the 3.7L have the nag1 transmissions, would like to run your vin number, can you e-mail it to me. gsferraro@yahoo.com
Hi I have a dodge dakota with a 545rfe transmission. The problem is that it stalls when I put it in gear but it works in reverse. I changed the shift solenoid but it didn´t help. Is the torque converter lock up somehow any clues of what part it make it to fail.
Oh thanks have to check that out. I there where nothing done to the pickup it just stalld when I put it in drive or firts or second but you can drive if you put lowe four wheel drive on and give little gas it can start working to the next time you stop but its little rough when you do it.
@@jeffreygillispie1037 yup. Mine did the same thing. I asked the best mechanic at our local Dodge dealer about it. He said it's quite the normal thing. That and broken valve springs in the hemi.
@@jeffreygillispie1037 all at once. I just followed the torque sequence and pulled the bolts out one by one and put blue loctite on them torqued to spec.. since it was apart I changed the filters and fluid. My truck had 43k on it then. I'm at 55k and no issues. I'm no transmission expert but my buddy that told me the fix is a Dodge tech since 86. He's their transmission guy/top mechanic.
@@brians9603 Brian, with the 3.7 you should have the NAG1 Transmission, this is a Mercedes Transmission, different from the 545RFE, you should have 6 pan bolts
Gary Ferraro hey Gary how can I get help from you? I can’t find anyone who has a clue to what’s wrong with my transmission!! I’ve got a couple videos posted as well explaining my problems. Still no reply from anyone
I can't watch a guy that doesn't have impact tools. Speed ratchets died about 1990. I can year that apart in half the time he took, and DON'T charge $99 hr labor......
![SahBabii - Viking [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/D37cL92JX0I/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent show & tell. Thank you Gary. All the best & stay well !!!
Thank you, you too, stay safe
Much appreciated. If you take a notion, I'd like to see a tear down of the servo pack, and maybe one for the valve body. Thanks!
The valvebody you can watch the 45RFE Valvebody overhaul video, same thing as the 545RFE. Solenoid pack, i will keep that in mind. Thanks for watching
No bands in this transmission. So was the only thing keeping this from working properly the 2-3 clutch pack? If you would have just replaced those clutches would it have worked again?
I have a 2003 dodge ram 2500 5.7 it's throwing a p0700 and a p0733 code what do u think it could be I've changed out the tcm and the filter and fluids what do u think it might be?
Thank you for posting a very well-put-together teardown video this transmission. It's helping a lot understand the inner workings of what I'm trying to diagnose currently. A 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 Hemi motor with a 545RFE. It came in originally for an overheat situation well pulling a trailer uphill. While testing the cooling system found no fault with any of the engine or cooling components. Radiator, thermostat, fan clutch, and coolant have recently been replaced. While loading the engine in gear it started having a transmission issues. When put in gear no longer moves in any shifter position. P0841 now in TCM. Transmission fluid is full and dark. Clear codes and try again and now have P0944. Well monitoring line pressure in any position TCM reads 34 PSI in all gears and RPMs. Found TSB regarding filters. Replace both filters in fluid and found no change in response. Do you have any insight that might help me resolve this fault? Also, is it possible the transmission could have been overheating and causing the engine to overheat while pulling a trailer?
Hey Gary, thanks for the in-depth video on the tear down that isn’t at lightning speed like a few others out there!
I have a channel on RUclips as well and one of the things I find myself doing often is working on dodge trucks big and small. I started rebuilding my wife’s 45RFE awhile back, before I found out a great deal of important parts are no longer available. I am still going to finish with what I have but is there an east solve for this in the future? I’m no stranger to making hybrid vehicles but with all the computer controlled stuff these days… what are the options? Scrap the whole thing? Seems a LOT of folks are.
parts are getting harder to get, which parts can't you get?
@@GaryFerraro well on this 45RFE I can tell it’s been gone through at least once in the past because all the pistons are the stamped steel versions and not the aluminum castings. Due to wear and burning I had to source a new low roller clutch, the friction plate between UD/OD and the OD outer friction ring. The outer was sourced as a new item off eBay that says it has additional steel on the friction surface compared to OE. I don’t even know if that’s accurate, or a good thing. The UD/OD plate I could not find new, anywhere. Nor the standard redesign that came after. I found 1 used one in southern AZ that actually looks new. My final problem is my rebuild kit that supplied the steels and friction materials. The kit supposedly covers 45/545/65/66/68RFE 2C, 4C and rev but the clutch matierial (color and direction of pattern) boggles my mind. There are too many red (brown) discs and not enough black. Am I to mix and match however I fancy? Doesn’t seem right and neither my manual nor the tech sheet updates I’ve found address anything of this nature. I really appreciate it if you could help clarify this one.
This is the first automatic I have attempted and given the struggle, will likely be the last. The important part is… it’s my wife’s truck and she wants it back, like last month. Haha
Hi Gary, great video and very informative. I'm having issues with my 545RFE giving a P0734 code. I have replaced the valve body assembly with a rebuilt unit, the shift solenoid with an OEM Mopar unit, both speed sensors, and the pressure sensor. lasted about fifty miles before throwing the same code. Has issues staying in five gear when under light load going up a grade and sometimes sticks in fourth gear even after coming to a complete stop. Only way to get back to first gear is to shut it off and restart the truck. Once I do that it acts like nothing happened. Opinion please, replace the clutch pack, fluid change and torque converter? 2009 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4. Thank you.
Sounds like the overdrive clutch may be bad
@@GaryFerraro thank you. I’ll give it a shot and reach out if I have problems if that’s ok.
Hello Gary I have a question for you about the Dodge 545rfe I do transmission service to it new secondary filter primary filter and also check the valve body accumulator plate on the side of the valve body that I know is known for being bent when the screw backs out nothing of that has been found everything was clean put a new court gasket on it filled it up with fluid drove it around and then after we parked it and went to drive it again we started it and it started whining extremely loudly any idea or any other direction I may be able to look at it is fine in Reverse but it struggles in Drive for a few seconds and then it'll drive normal but it just whines really loudly
where did you get the filters from? does it whine in park and neutral too?
@@GaryFerraro yes sir it whines in all gears. And the filters are from o reillys. Just strange that I've never had a problem in the past with these bit could just be a defective one very possible.
@@bunkster90 may want to get different filters, is there a dealer near you. Don't get same brand may have same problem
@@GaryFerraro thank sir and yes there is a dealer near, so this would cause the whine bc it is starving the tranny for fluid
@@bunkster90 If you didn't have it before and now you do, i would start with that
I also have a problem with my 545rfe. My problem is odd. If I press the OD/OFF button I have perfect shifts throughout, I'm just not using OD. If I push the button for OD it will slip and go into limp mode. If I'm correct third gear and OD clutches are the same? My question is, why do I have 3rd and not OD?
My fiancé’s truck is having trouble he says it’s from the transmission. He thinks it’s the solenoid pack. Basically some times it runs just fine then all of a sudden it turns super sluggish and doesn’t want to go into his highest gear. 60mph at 3500-3600 rpm’s his truck has 213000 on it. What would you suggest he try just a solenoid pack or complete rebuild?
hey great video. Do you know if this trans is the same internally (and therefore same take down process) as the 45RFE dodge trans? just curious thank you
Hello angela,
Basically yes it is the same, they reprogrammed the PCM to get the 5th gear. Thanks for watching, please subscribe. Any transmission questions just let me know. Gary
You have a video rebuilding it?
Around the 37 minute mark, you mention that you can use the white connector solenoid (with slider plate) on earlier models that had the black connector. Could you use a black connector solenoid on a newer model that has a bad white connector solenoid?
No, that will not work, you can use the late pack on early models but cant use early on late model units.
What is the Torque Converter Clutch Soleniod?? I had a P0740 on my 2004 Durango, same transmission, 545rfe. I’m finding different pictures online on what the part actually is and what it looks like. Confused.
That is part of the solenoid pack inside the trans. This code means that the converter can no longer fully lock-up. This is a mechanical code.
could be a converter problem, pump problem, solenoid problem or something like a leak in the TCC circuit
Thank you for the video! Good job explaining everything!
Thanks for watching
Hey Gary. Thanks for the video. I am going to be putting in a reman'ed Mopar pump in my 545RFE when I change the torque converter. I am getting the Sonnax 44912-01 TCC Accumulator spring to replace the one that comes in the reman'ed pump (Sonnax is supposedly made of "upgraded material increases spring strength" and rated for more duty cycles). My question comes in since I am also installing the TransGo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Shift Kit and it comes with a spring set to go in the same TCC Accumulator. Should I just install the Sonnax 44912-01 instead of the TransGo springs there?
Also, the TransGo kit comes with their own TCC Limit Valve parts (ball, spring, plunger). Seeing as this is a reman'ed pump, should i install those or leave them out? (thought i heard those were for the older pumps, but i am not sure). Thanks for any help.
What year is the vehicle?
2005
The 2005 units dont really have issues, the very early units do, i dont do much to the later units. Looks like the kit comes with a valve line up, i would put the transgo kit in. Im not sure about the older pumps, you would have to see what the instructions say
Gary Ferraro Yeah. The reman'ed pump is the newer version with the seal in the pump cover. So you'd put the TC Limit Valve parts that come in the TransGo 45RFE -HD2 kit in too? They are a spring, a ball , and a plunger. They replace the Limit Valve parts that come in the pump. Thanks for your time.
Yes i would use the transgo kit
When you open this trans if you found, aluminum shavings in the pan where would you look, and mine was not shifting into third. Also I have to assume those aluminum pieces are throughout the trans, so my question is should I rebuild the thing or should I buy a rebuilt. Of course money is a problem. I'm sure I can swing 1200 to 1500 for rebuilt but. I want to make sure it's not something I can fix. I mean unless its aluminum from the casing then it should be rebuildable right.
When you say not shifting into 3rd, does it just seem like it goes to neutral? any codes?
@@GaryFerraro yes exactly right like it ben shifted to neutral, yes codes p0700 p0733 p0740. I got the transfer case out and transmission out yesterday I got to go return the trans jack then I think I might tear into it.
@@raymondmucklow3793 Your issue will probably be in the input drum, middle set of clutches, they are the overdrive clutches
@@GaryFerraro one more question what's the best way to tell if your torque converter is bad.
@@GaryFerraro and thank you.
On a 2008 Chrysler Aspen 5.7l is the range sensor part of the solenoid pack? Got a p0706 I could see t3 fickler on the scan tool ckosed/open.
It is yes, make sure the connection is ok, if your going to change out the solenoid pack, you may want to change the slide plate(or also may be called cam plate)
Nice video. Was wondering if you found any reason why that clutch pack burned up. Or do you think it was more a matter of the owner driving too hard with too much of a load? Clutches are one of those things where it can be hard to tell if they were the problem or just a symptom of another problem.
I honestly do not remember, could have been driving too hard and also had a code of lower than normal line pressure
Ah. I'm more of an engine guy. With engines it can be easier to find a "smoking gun". Is it common to tear down a trans and not necessarily find a "root cause"?
Hi Gary, I've got a mid 2003 Jeep grand cherokee 4.7 ho, it lost drive the other week, oil leaking from in between the bell housing and engine, I've removed the transmission and pulled the torque converter off, the o ring on the hub of the converter looks very worn out, I've also removed the front pump seal where the torque converter goes through into the transmission, is it possible that it's just those 2 seals are my problem or shall I dig deeper into the transmission? Can't think what else would cause the oil leaking besides those 2 seals obviously losing the oil pressure followed by loss of drive?? Any input or help will be greatly appreciated, many thanks Dean
Sweet video. My 07 Grand Cherokee doesn't kick into gear. I can hear the output shaft of the trans and input on the t-case grind, like it wants to go into gear. I replaced the transfer case itself, the motor and computer and nothing changed. To put it in park, i have to shut the car off and then put it in park or they will grind badly. The car moves in 4-low but not 4-high and there are no codes. If the car goes into park, it still rolls like it's in neutral. Could it be a bad pump? Thanks in advance.
PS Another guy told me the modulator valve was bad and claimed it was on the side of the trans and I noticed you never said anything about the valve.
No Modulator valve. when you put the car in drive(and it doesn't move) does the speedometer go up? Anything turning that you can see when in drive with no movement, something is broken
@@GaryFerraroNo. Only rpm's move. I'm fully convinced, and have been for a couple weeks, it's internal mechanical damage.
@@NativeNation40 You can't put that in park because the gears in the trans are spinning, maybe drop the pan, see if any debris is in the pan, just to confirm, transfer case is NOT in Neutral?
@@GaryFerraro I can do that. Say the transfer case is in neutral, how would i get it in gear if that entire section was replaced? I.E. transfer case, motor and control module. And it moves in 4-low. That's what confuses me.
@@NativeNation40 You could try to take the t-case motor out and turn it by hand, you said the car rolls in park?
So What Causes This Clutch To Fail? Is It Normal To Have Low Line Pressure From Having A Burned Up Clutch? I Did A Tranmssion Fluid Change And Trans Go Shift Kit Installed into Valve Body. After That Trans Wouldn't Go Into Any Gears Without Revving Engine Up. Eventually It Smoked The L/R Clutch. I Had loss Of Prime DTCs And Pressure Switch Rationality DTCs. My Question Is Did This Happen Becasue Fluid Had Clutch Material In It Helping Clutches Hold And With New Fluid It Just Slipped, Burned Clutch And Caused Loss Of Prime Etc. OR Did The Clutch Burn Up Because Of Loss Of Prime And Low Line Pressure?
Salvatore Hayes clutch can fail from normal wear and tear the overdrive clutch is a weak point. When you have loss of prime codes either it's low on fluid or the filter may be restricted which can cause low line pressure
@@GaryFerraro ok. Yea I did a fluid and filter service and lost the tranny. 156k on it
Awesome video thank you! How much time would you guess it takes the average backyard Joe (without a lift) to get the job done?
remove, replace and overhaul, couple of days(2-3)
Hay what tool do you recommend to pull torque converter on a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 there is almost no room because of the engine cradle thinks gary
@@jerryporter3798 Is trans is out of the car?
Hi, thanks for this video. If I rebuilt my own transmission, would I have to run a quick relearn or reprogram the transmission before I drive it? Just wondering because i dont have one of those expensive scanners.
Thanks
You honestly really should, if there is a shop near by they may be able to do it for you
Hi Mr. Ferraro. Got a 2004 Durango 4.7, it was working fine and the next morning it didn´t move. No R, no D. Just a little attempt to move if you accelerate to 2000 RPM, but that's all. Any advice? Thank you, best regards.
Any codes? car holds in park?
@@GaryFerraro Thank you very much for replying; it was the solenoid pack. Best regards and thanks for sharing.
@@GamboaFabio Thanks for the update
Hi Gary, know this is an old video but hope you are able to assist as I can't find anything based on my symptoms. I drive a Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 545rfe. When I engage drive or reverse the engine will stall, if I move through the gear selector and put it in park the RPM will also drop but then recover. If I gently give some gas when engaging gears, it won't die. On highway speeds cruising with my foot gently on the gas, I can see (RPM) and feel the lockup clutch engaging and disengaging (repeats). Going through the gears everything feels perfect. Those springs in the pump that you say break. That is all I can think of, unless the pressure sensor outside the box can cause the same issue? No transmission codes.
What would the likely culprit be and can I drive it in this way without hurting something else?
Thanks in advance and hopefully someone will also benefit from this.
When the engine stalls, it starts right back up again?
@@GaryFerraro only saw your reply now. yes the engine starts up as expected. Previously when the car was warm and you shift out of gear then back into D it will have a harsh engagement where the car will jurk forward. If that spring breaks, what are other symptoms and will I have smooth gear shifts when driving?
@@pottaz A Broken TCC Limit Valve may have a hard engagement because it may be trying to stall the engine. A Broken TCC Accumulator valve spring will make it have a hard TCC Engagement
@@GaryFerraro okay thank you I do appreciate the input. All these symtoms only happens when I have driven around for a while. If the vehicle is warmed up. As you mentioned the possible culprits, will they only effect the vehicle when it has been driven around for a while or when you start the vehicle it will immediately cause issues
@@pottaz If springs are broken on the tcc limit valve could really happen at any time, tcc acumulator valve would just be when tcc is commanded on
Hi, thank you for a very informative video, my main question is can you pull the pump without removing the valve body? Is there another way to get that cover plate off since I believe my pump is ruined and trashed. What I put it in gear I had a bang and then all I hear in park reverse neutral and all Drive gears is a whining sound. Which tells me it's probably the pump or at least I hope it is my concern is do I have to turn to transmission down to remove the pump? Thanks for your time
You do have to drop the pan anyway because the filter has to be removed, then you can knock out the front cover unbolt the pump and pull the pump out
Gary Ferraro awesome sir! Thank you so much for your reply! I know the videos older, but with the whining in all gears I'm thinking pump.... Would you most likely concur? I'm really hoping it's just that
Does the car move? noise is there in park and neutral?
Gary Ferraro no sir,no movement at all. Start it and all I hear is a whine. Shift I to reverse or drive and it idles slightly higher with a higher whine. In drive it'll roll backwards even with a little throttle applied. Put into park and shit the car off and the last thing you hear as the motor shuts down is the whine. Not sure if it's the TC or pump. I believe the motors not spinning when I shut it off, but its still whining in the trans. Hmm... Maybe not the pump?
Could be a pump, converter or clogged filter, has the pan been down yet?
i wanted to see the condition of the pistons in the accumulator. but thanks for the video.
Sorry, they are usually always in good shape. Thanks for watching
03 Dodge Ram 4.7 liter 2wd 545rfe trans, i want to change the old fluid to Amsoil ATF, do u think its smart to flush the trans from the cooler line at the trans or just change the 6 quarts with the filters
I never liked pulling off cooler line, always afraid something may happen to the pump, I would just drop the pan, there are 2 filters, main sump and cooler return filters if you wanted to change
You have a rebuild of the trans?
I do not
Would you happen to know where I could source a UD/OV reactive plate for one of these?
Thanks for your videos.
Goes in the input drum correct?
@@GaryFerraro I appreciate your response, i did source one thank you again for responding!!!
@@whatwasthat3269 ok, sounds good
Sweet a new video thanks Gary
Thank you sir
Hello again. On the 68RFE are there upgrades you recommend for heavy duty use? During a rebuild.
Sonnax has a "smart tech " drum for heavy duty use, also see if a Billet converter is available for this unit
I have the same trans in my 04 ram 2500 4x4.. I have the cold weather problems were you put into drive or reverse in morning or cold weather it won't move until warmed up or if I step onto throttle. Also come to stop light rpms fall too 500 rpms and I feel shuttering in steering wheel. But other than that shifts drives fine.. thinking either trans pump or torque converter I have no codes..
Rob Tutela Jr ok first have you looked at fluid level?
Rob Tutela Jr how long before it moves a minute or two
Fluid is perfect. If it's 30's out in morning yea min or two. If I hammer down its sluggish then goes right away..
Rob Tutela Jr Almost sounds like it's draining back overnight Take a look at the dipstick where the full mark is usually when the trans is full it will be two and half inches above the full mark engine off. What I need for you to do is in the morning before you start the car pull the stick out. Wipe it clean and check the fluid level do this when the car is stone cold see how far above the full mark it is.
@@GaryFerraro so if i go out to my truck right now without it runnin cold pull my dipstick it should be over the full 21/2 inch ? What if its below ? Should i add some?
Great video thanks.....if I repower the wagon can this auto run without a computer or any sensors from the engine if new
engine does not have them on ? cheers Brett
Trans cannot run without computer, it is completely computer controled
could the factory computer be used even if the factory motor wasnt being used do you think ?
@@kermets - DodgeChryslerJeep had a transmission controller for this trans for use with their diesel engines that did not have an ECM. You will find those useful for your project.
Seriously, the computer or aftermarket racing computer can run the trans and your engine much better than a BS carb electronic ign setup.
You are much further ahead for power and economy running an ECM on a build. Carbs and distributor ignitions are dark ages BS and in most cases more trouble than they are worth. Consider some aftermarket ECM solutions. Cheaper and more reliable.
@claudepgh - thanks for that, Im ok with electronics I just do not like my CR diesel as there are no spare parts cheap here, So wanted to put a 5 cylinder Merc motor that has a manual injector pump and still wanted to use the Auto trans thats in it as its 4wd.
hey thanks for the video. Ive got an 06 dodge ram with the same transmission I drove it to work one day and when I went to go leave it wont go anyway it shifts into the gears but wont move. could that be caused by the pump failure? or is there a sensor that could have gone bad?
Have you checked the fluid level? see if it shows overfull, This happened suddenly with no signs?
Gary Ferraro yea happened all of a sudden with no warning! And the fluid level is about maybe 1/2-1 quart level high when running when I put it in reverse it kicks back but won't go anywhere and if I put it in drive it kicks forward but won't move either
Doesnt seem like a pump problem, sounds like something may have snapped inside the trans or maybe a spline stripped, any movement in manual 1 or manual 2?
Yea manual 1st and manual 2nd when shifted the truck pushes forward maybe 1/2in to 1 in when I push the gas. And that's it won't move anymore
Ok, next step may be to drop the pan, that may give some direction, possible converter let go.
I got a used pump assembly for my unit but cant seem to get it to seat. pulled stator out and it slides all the way home so its obviously the pump body against the case thats tight. Hate to beat it home. Any suggestions Gary?
Something else may be out of place if that pump is not sitting flat, if you look through the input speed sensor hole does the exciter ring look centered?
@@GaryFerraro thanks for the fast reply. I tapped it home gently and all seems well except now after installing, I have strong reverse, it works great but drive is in limp mode and no 2 or 1. I did not replace any sensors or solenoid pack. Does this sound electrical to you
ALso code po700
@@jspat67 There has to be another code other than the P0700, this is a generic code meaning you have transmission trouble codes stored. Do you have access to a good scanner like a snap-on or autel?
@@GaryFerraro Yes we put a snap on scanner on it and thats the only code i am getting. Ran tranny thru 14 step test C1 C2 etc... all is working correctly. trans definetly stuck in limp. have a reman solenoid pack coming today after i bathe in synthetic oil..why me.
Hi i replaced my transmission on a 2005 jeep grand cherokee laredo 3.7l 4wd and is like stock on one gear is like 2nd or 3rd i am not sure. But first i thought i got a bad triny and got another one but it did the something. I clear the codes and bought a TCM that was progrmaed to my vin# but i still have the same problem. Any tips that can help me?
If this is stuck in one gear, there should be codes present, i would like to know what codes you have
@garryferraro yes i had code P0700 and P0758
@@jorgeo6572 If you clear the code does it come right back. Usually the 3.7L have the nag1 transmissions, would like to run your vin number, can you e-mail it to me. gsferraro@yahoo.com
@@GaryFerraro yes they come right back. I will send you my vin# through the email. Thanks a lot for answering and trying to help me.
@@jorgeo6572 My 2.7 CRD Laredo has the same problem. What was the solution to your problem? Greg.
Hi I have a dodge dakota with a 545rfe transmission. The problem is that it stalls when I put it in gear but it works in reverse. I changed the shift solenoid but it didn´t help. Is the torque converter lock up somehow any clues of what part it make it to fail.
What year is the vehicle?
its 2003
make sure the cooler flow is good, also in the pump is the TCC limit valve, if that spring breaks it will stall. It stalls on engagement?
was anything done to the vehicle before it started to stall
Oh thanks have to check that out. I there where nothing done to the pickup it just stalld when I put it in drive or firts or second but you can drive if you put lowe four wheel drive on and give little gas it can start working to the next time you stop but its little rough when you do it.
My 06 ram with the 545rfe slips in reverse but forward gears are working perfectly, what could the problem be?
Valve body bolts loose. Loctite and retighten them
Is it common for them to loosen up on their own?
@@jeffreygillispie1037 yup. Mine did the same thing. I asked the best mechanic at our local Dodge dealer about it. He said it's quite the normal thing. That and broken valve springs in the hemi.
Did you start having problems gradually or all at once, mine was at once with no warning
@@jeffreygillispie1037 all at once. I just followed the torque sequence and pulled the bolts out one by one and put blue loctite on them torqued to spec.. since it was apart I changed the filters and fluid. My truck had 43k on it then. I'm at 55k and no issues. I'm no transmission expert but my buddy that told me the fix is a Dodge tech since 86. He's their transmission guy/top mechanic.
5:40 Great, now I have to take a piss...
which rebuild kit do you recommend?
TransTec
Is this the same Trans as '07 Grand Cherokee?
What is the engine size?
Gary Ferraro 3.7. I’ve seen a few things showing 2 different trans. Mine doesn’t have a dipstick
@@brians9603 Brian, with the 3.7 you should have the NAG1 Transmission, this is a Mercedes Transmission, different from the 545RFE, you should have 6 pan bolts
@@GaryFerraro Thanks trying to figure out a hard downshift at really slow speed issue
@@brians9603 Do you know if you have any codes? what is it like a 2-1 downshift?
Wanted to try and rebuild my own trans but after watching how many parts are inside and snap rings I quickly snapped back to reality.
LOL, Thanks for watching
Can i use a solenoid pack from a 2001-2003 545rfe in a 2004 Grand Cherokee with a 545rfe as long as it has the white connector?
Should work, if you have the black connector you have to change the cam plate too
Gary Ferraro hey Gary how can I get help from you? I can’t find anyone who has a clue to what’s wrong with my transmission!! I’ve got a couple videos posted as well explaining my problems. Still no reply from anyone
Donald, your post did not show but the neutral switch is part of the solenoid pack, any questions just e-mail me gsferraro@yahoo.com
Master
So please show us a rebuild please
will keep that in mind for the next one i get
Yes it is steal in the Jeep all I need is a tool to get to the 4 bolts and the engine brace is off
I might attempt this , Mine will not shift into 3rd anyone
What happens, just runsaway and seems like it goes to neutral?
Gary Ferraro Yes i will go into neutral unless i manually put it in second
@@hpjunke Sounds like that overdrive clutch may be no good, this is the middle set of clutches in the input drum
I can't watch a guy that doesn't have impact tools. Speed ratchets died about 1990. I can year that apart in half the time he took, and DON'T charge $99 hr labor......
I have impact tools but certain bolts i choose not to use them, sometimes they break. No worries 99$ is not my labor rate. Thanks for watching
He showed his knowledge and you disrespect him, just so you know a lot of people are really thankful for guyz like you
@@brianboudreau2753 knowledge? Np he showed you outdated material.... rookie.
@@brianboudreau2753 Thanks Brian, 2 thumbs up for you, Happy Holidays
@@danelobe2524 I have an 08 with that transmission and it works great and I didn’t know about the cooling filter