Excelent video as always and this gentleman helped me on a few questions about my 5r55w and its more then perfect on its rebuild that I did all by myself
If i wasn't so far away from your shop I would definitely bring my X5 there. From watching your videos I see you are very thorough. And I also was from the garden capital of the world myself..lol. stay well Gary.
Gary is the one to go to, he did an awesome job he is good at what he does, I recommend Gary. He does excellent work and he's honest quality you can't find out there right now
Great video! I have a 545RFE in my 07 Ram, it works fine but it's a machine and will fail at some point. I've wondered if I could DIY this job but also know that you make it look easy because of experience that I don't have. When the day comes I may just go with a reman.
Its like you are field dressing a deer that you just hunted.lol Its very interesting. I have to really learn this to rebuild my 45RFE in my 02 Jeep WJ.
It boggles my mind, how on earth do u know what order the clutch plates go in? When you pull them out at 24:29 and fan them, how do u know what order they go in? Or does it matter?
Well the pressure plate is always the top plate, sometimes there is a wave steel which would go on the bottom but you do have to watch the thickness of the steel and clutch plates or your clearance will be off
Put a used 545 RFE in that had the white connector. Trying to figure out what the cam plate is. I'm guessing that's the harness connector end that connects it. Mine wasn't changed. Is that cam plate the harness connector that feeds into the trans
Thoroughly enjoyed this video - what a wealth of knowledge! I plan on rebuilding my 545rfe. I am considering the "Monster in a Box" from Monster Transmissions - what is your opinion of their kits? I built a stroked and bored 399c.i. hemi from a 5.7: Eagle heads and intake, Molnar crank/rods with Carillo pistons, custom cam (torque profile), long tube headers. I expect it to make about 500-550hp. Unsure on torque numbers. My transmission has been great - no issues. I just don't want to kill it after installing this built engine. In your opinion, what is the best way to make it live as long as possible? This is a 4x4 4 door half ton truck with a 6" lift and 35" mud tires. I don't hot rod my truck, but I do pull somewhat heavy trailers. Thanks for any info you can give.
Not really any special tools, valvebody and pump is Torx 25, regular tools should be fine, may need a feeler gauge for the molded balance piston in the input drum
hello, I own a jeep cherokee liberty limited 2003 KJ 2.8 CRD, with my diagnostic devices (DRBIII emulator, Icarsoft) the following DTCs are still present despite their erase. It's P0740 TCC out of range, P2704, P0218, P0868, when I drive I feel vibrations, I can't say exactly if it comes from the gearbox...I'M NOT A MECHANIC. Your videos are very informative, which is why I am turning to you with the idea of having information from a specialist to help me solve this problem. The accelerator pedal is sometimes soft and sometimes not...is there a connection? I changed the oil, the filter but I did not change the flat filter. Thank you for your response, help and support
ok, the P0740 and P0218 could be related, with the converter slipping this generates heat causing the 218 code to show. Do you know what trans you have? 42RLE?
I have a 01 grand Cherokee 2wd 4.7 with 91,000 miles that i wrecked 70 mph, spun around and hit hard on driver's side rear and spun around like a helicopter rotor and crashed the front also. I also had one with a blown motor so i test fired up the wrecked one, ran and sounded good so i swapped motor and tranny together. Everything was fine at first then i started getting a buzzing sound from transmission area, sounds like more towards front and getting a p0700 code and must be in limp mode. I can manually downshift, and 1st gear works but hits into gear hard. It buzzes only in park and neutral and stops instantly when i put it in gear. reverse works fine. Do you think this issue could be in the valve body or something deeper?
only other code is p0136 and i believe that's o2 sensor that i hope clears up after i add better gas. I'm only using the key turn 3 times for the code. I have another transmission i will swap the solenoid block and try to narrow it down. The buzz is pretty loud, it doesn't start buzzing for a few seconds then it gets louder, sometimes it quiets down randomly and as soon as i put it in gear it stops. thanks for replying.@@GaryFerraro
you maybe could try disconnecting the solenoid pack while the car is running to see if noise goes away, of course this will cause codes that will have to be cleared@@jerryhyland1554
Im thinking a valve buzz from the pump, if a bad converter the noise would go away in park and neutral , not a common thing with this trans.. If it were a filter noise it would never go away would be there all ranges.@@jerryhyland1554
What do you anticipate caused all the frictions to have “Undesired Thermal Spotting”? Do you think it was from the Front Pump Solenoid Switch Valve? Is there anyway you could film a video of you performing a “Vacuum Test” on a main control/valve body as well? Maybe just a short video of one failing? Thanks for the great videos!
Hi Gary, I have a mid 2003 Jeep grand cherokee 4.7 ho, was driving along and it lost drive the other week, oil was pooring from between the bell housing and engine, I've removed the transmission and pulled the Torque converter, the o ring on the Torque converter hub looks very worn and flat on the outside,, I've also removed the front pump seal that the Torque converter goes into, would just those 2 seals cause that issue or do I need to pull the transmission apart further to find the problem? Many thanks Dean
That trans should be the 545RFE, not common at all, rarely see that, you may have to change the front cover, there is a large o-ring around the outside and a smaller one around the inside by the front seal, the converter hub look ok?
@@GaryFerraro thank you for replying so quickly, 545RFE is the one, Would that cause a sudden loss in oil pressure for the trans and to lose oil all of a sudden? It did it instantly as I clicked out of overdrive? Converter hub looks good, some very very light marking from the seal but no groves or deep scoring etc,
The smaller of the 2 o rings that seal the alloy front cover looks a little flattened over in one spot, I'm guessing the oil pressure came from there and out the front cover? Would you replace the front cover with an alloy one or is the steel upgrade much better? Many thanks Dean
@@DJsGarageHomeandBuilds Steel one will not work, that is for later models. I would replace the front seal and the aluminum cover. Converter hub looks ok?
@@GaryFerraro thank you much for your knowledge, I've removed the overdrive unit, there's some pretty burnt up clutch plates in there, it's discoloured the steels, the ones in the units further back are much better colour, I'll rebuild from there, is there much benefit to changing the black plugged unit to the white unit? Anything else need changing for it? Many thanks Dean
I have a 2006 Dodge Dakota with an automatic transmission. The transmission has trouble codes P0733 and P1790. I'm trying to perform a 3rd gear clutch test with my scan tool. I can't figure out, how to shift the transmission into overdrive. The 2-4 overdrive clutch fill index is 54.
Thank you for replying to my question !!! Yes there are codes from the truck i.e P.O 700,882,876,871,846,864,, 988 . I'm hopeful that info from you will help me with my 06 Dodge ram 4x4 truck in area such as repair and replace , rebuild kit , or salvage yard replacement cannot afford new , thanks again for your help it is sure nice have a outstanding day
Hey guys off topic, but is the Jatco CVT still so unreliable? I am looking at a Chevrolet Spark or Mitsubishi Mirage with that transmission. Cheers from Brooklyn!
This is simply a heavy right foot, nothing more. It's cool to think you're a real badass to put your right foot down. Yeah, really cool until it's time to pay you.
Internetpirate3 Your comment did not show, i actually have never had one of these blow the low sprag. where you towing with this vehicle, you could e-mail me at gsferraro@yahoo.com
Sorry just saw you responded to my comment 8 months ago. Was not towing with the truck but was driving 12-14 hours a day pretty regularly so lots of extended highway mileage. I have a picture of the blown low sprag I could email you if interested.
![SahBabii - Viking [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/D37cL92JX0I/mqdefault.jpg)
Excelent video as always and this gentleman helped me on a few questions about my 5r55w and its more then perfect on its rebuild that I did all by myself
how did you contact him
If i wasn't so far away from your shop I would definitely bring my X5 there. From watching your videos I see you are very thorough. And I also was from the garden capital of the world myself..lol. stay well Gary.
Gary is the one to go to, he did an awesome job he is good at what he does, I recommend Gary. He does excellent work and he's honest quality you can't find out there right now
Awesome video bro!!!!!!Thank you so much for putting this on here.
Thanks for watching
Great video! I have a 545RFE in my 07 Ram, it works fine but it's a machine and will fail at some point. I've wondered if I could DIY this job but also know that you make it look easy because of experience that I don't have. When the day comes I may just go with a reman.
Thanks for watching ED, where are you located?
@@GaryFerraro Dayton, Ohio
@@edthompsom9368 I do not know anyone in that area
@@GaryFerraro I appreciate the thought and we do have a couple of shops in the area with good reputations.
Its like you are field dressing a deer that you just hunted.lol Its very interesting. I have to really learn this to rebuild my 45RFE in my 02 Jeep WJ.
Not a bad trans to work on
Excellent tutorial. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you sir
@@GaryFerraro Do you have a reassembly video? How does a novice keep track of correctly reassembling the transmission from teardown? Thanks.
It boggles my mind, how on earth do u know what order the clutch plates go in? When you pull them out at 24:29 and fan them, how do u know what order they go in? Or does it matter?
Well the pressure plate is always the top plate, sometimes there is a wave steel which would go on the bottom but you do have to watch the thickness of the steel and clutch plates or your clearance will be off
So I'm thinking I need to check my flex plate for loosened bolts. Is there an inspection cover on the blasted thing? I have 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 .
Put a used 545 RFE in that had the white connector. Trying to figure out what the cam plate is. I'm guessing that's the harness connector end that connects it. Mine wasn't changed. Is that cam plate the harness connector that feeds into the trans
Cam plate is what moves when the manual valve moves, it slides back and fourth, bolted to valvebody with one bolt. What year is your car?
What is the average amount of miles these transmissions typically achieve before they break down?
Thoroughly enjoyed this video - what a wealth of knowledge! I plan on rebuilding my 545rfe. I am considering the "Monster in a Box" from Monster Transmissions - what is your opinion of their kits? I built a stroked and bored 399c.i. hemi from a 5.7: Eagle heads and intake, Molnar crank/rods with Carillo pistons, custom cam (torque profile), long tube headers. I expect it to make about 500-550hp. Unsure on torque numbers. My transmission has been great - no issues. I just don't want to kill it after installing this built engine. In your opinion, what is the best way to make it live as long as possible? This is a 4x4 4 door half ton truck with a 6" lift and 35" mud tires. I don't hot rod my truck, but I do pull somewhat heavy trailers. Thanks for any info you can give.
I don't know much about there product. how much horse power?
Which special tools do you need to rebuild the 545rfe?
Not really any special tools, valvebody and pump is Torx 25, regular tools should be fine, may need a feeler gauge for the molded balance piston in the input drum
ive had that light on for years lmao i thought it was the tipm since i replaced from another truck lol
you have check engine light on?
hello, I own a jeep cherokee liberty limited 2003 KJ 2.8 CRD, with my diagnostic devices (DRBIII emulator, Icarsoft) the following DTCs are still present despite their erase. It's P0740 TCC out of range, P2704, P0218, P0868, when I drive I feel vibrations, I can't say exactly if it comes from the gearbox...I'M NOT A MECHANIC. Your videos are very informative, which is why I am turning to you with the idea of having information from a specialist to help me solve this problem. The accelerator pedal is sometimes soft and sometimes not...is there a connection? I changed the oil, the filter but I did not change the flat filter. Thank you for your response, help and support
ok, the P0740 and P0218 could be related, with the converter slipping this generates heat causing the 218 code to show. Do you know what trans you have? 42RLE?
@@GaryFerraro Hy maestro, thanks for react ! Yes I know it's 545RFE
Where can i get the update kit for a solenoid valve?
You mean solenoid pack?
I have a 01 grand Cherokee 2wd 4.7 with 91,000 miles that i wrecked 70 mph, spun around and hit hard on driver's side rear and spun around like a helicopter rotor and crashed the front also. I also had one with a blown motor so i test fired up the wrecked one, ran and sounded good so i swapped motor and tranny together. Everything was fine at first then i started getting a buzzing sound from transmission area, sounds like more towards front and getting a p0700 code and must be in limp mode. I can manually downshift, and 1st gear works but hits into gear hard. It buzzes only in park and neutral and stops instantly when i put it in gear. reverse works fine. Do you think this issue could be in the valve body or something deeper?
Po700 is a generic code, there should be another code, wonder if its a valve buzz or a solenoid buzz possibly from high pressure
only other code is p0136 and i believe that's o2 sensor that i hope clears up after i add better gas. I'm only using the key turn 3 times for the code. I have another transmission i will swap the solenoid block and try to narrow it down.
The buzz is pretty loud, it doesn't start buzzing for a few seconds then it gets louder, sometimes it quiets down randomly and as soon as i put it in gear it stops. thanks for replying.@@GaryFerraro
you maybe could try disconnecting the solenoid pack while the car is running to see if noise goes away, of course this will cause codes that will have to be cleared@@jerryhyland1554
I just unplugged it, very slight tune change for only a few seconds and kept buzzing as normal.@@GaryFerraro
Im thinking a valve buzz from the pump, if a bad converter the noise would go away in park and neutral , not a common thing with this trans.. If it were a filter noise it would never go away would be there all ranges.@@jerryhyland1554
garry is there a way you could contact me about a zf5hp19 i have a question on ?
My e-mail is gsferraro@yahoo.com
What about the cooling line case nuts? Did you manage to find a way to replace the seal inside those case nuts?
i just replace the fittings
What do you anticipate caused all the frictions to have “Undesired Thermal Spotting”? Do you think it was from the Front Pump Solenoid Switch Valve? Is there anyway you could film a video of you performing a “Vacuum Test” on a main control/valve body as well? Maybe just a short video of one failing? Thanks for the great videos!
From what this was doing, i elected to install a reman pump, the vacuum test on the pump was border line so i went with a reman pump
What symtoms would you have if the input and out put sensors were bad
May not shift correctly, also may produce gear ratio error codes
@@GaryFerraro thank you
Hi Gary, I have a mid 2003 Jeep grand cherokee 4.7 ho, was driving along and it lost drive the other week, oil was pooring from between the bell housing and engine, I've removed the transmission and pulled the Torque converter, the o ring on the Torque converter hub looks very worn and flat on the outside,, I've also removed the front pump seal that the Torque converter goes into, would just those 2 seals cause that issue or do I need to pull the transmission apart further to find the problem? Many thanks Dean
That trans should be the 545RFE, not common at all, rarely see that, you may have to change the front cover, there is a large o-ring around the outside and a smaller one around the inside by the front seal, the converter hub look ok?
@@GaryFerraro thank you for replying so quickly, 545RFE is the one,
Would that cause a sudden loss in oil pressure for the trans and to lose oil all of a sudden? It did it instantly as
I clicked out of overdrive? Converter hub looks good, some very very light marking from the seal but no groves or deep scoring etc,
The smaller of the 2 o rings that seal the alloy front cover looks a little flattened over in one spot, I'm guessing the oil pressure came from there and out the front cover? Would you replace the front cover with an alloy one or is the steel upgrade much better? Many thanks Dean
@@DJsGarageHomeandBuilds Steel one will not work, that is for later models. I would replace the front seal and the aluminum cover. Converter hub looks ok?
@@GaryFerraro thank you much for your knowledge, I've removed the overdrive unit, there's some pretty burnt up clutch plates in there, it's discoloured the steels, the ones in the units further back are much better colour, I'll rebuild from there, is there much benefit to changing the black plugged unit to the white unit? Anything else need changing for it? Many thanks Dean
I have a 2006 Dodge Dakota with an automatic transmission. The transmission has trouble codes P0733 and P1790. I'm trying to perform a 3rd gear clutch test with my scan tool. I can't figure out, how to shift the transmission into overdrive. The 2-4 overdrive clutch fill index is 54.
so what happens when it shifts to 3rd?
@@GaryFerraro It acts like it's in neutral
@@danielguerra626 I believe that O/D clutch comes on in 3rd, Middle clutch pack in the input drum
Hello could tell me if a 06 545rfe ram transmission that doesn't shift period would you say if it is fixable or should a replacement be better !!!
Can you tell me if any codes are present, if it does not shift, there should be codes, this may give some direction
Thank you for replying to my question !!! Yes there are codes from the truck i.e P.O 700,882,876,871,846,864,, 988 . I'm hopeful that info from you will help me with my 06 Dodge ram 4x4 truck in area such as repair and replace , rebuild kit , or salvage yard replacement cannot afford new , thanks again for your help it is sure nice have a outstanding day
@@jimangelo8319 Hey Jim, record all codes, clear them and see what comes back
This transmission looked really clean. What do you think was root cause of this failure? Just normal wear in the clutches?
They kept changing the fluid, so it was clean, i vacuum tested the pump and did not like the results
What’s up Gary?
On this vehicle if the transmission is making a popping noise like it is overheating but has regular fluid what can it be? No codes
Have you check trans temp with a scan tool or shot the pan with the temp gun? When do you here this noise?
@@GaryFerraro my friend says after it warms up it begins to make the noise.
When making the noise does the transmission operate normally
Yes
@@servo5651 Not really sure, do you have to be moving to hear the sound or do you hear not moving? or both?
What’s the spline count?
Not Sure what it was
Hey guys off topic, but is the Jatco CVT still so unreliable? I am looking at a Chevrolet Spark or Mitsubishi Mirage with that transmission. Cheers from Brooklyn!
I get 3 to 5 calls a week on nissan CVT, have 2 at the shop now and another coming on Tuesday
@@GaryFerraro that is crazy and there aren’t even that many of those on the road as regular automatic transmissions...
How much is it to rebuild one?
@@brianp4199 ballpark of 3100ish
@@GaryFerraro Thats probably at least 1k more than rebuilding an auto trans for a Cobalt...wow.
you can get the full rebuild here ruclips.net/video/Wt00u3nVo2Y/видео.html
Hello from Russia! can you complete repair kit number please
This is simply a heavy right foot, nothing more. It's cool to think you're a real badass to put your right foot down. Yeah, really cool until it's time to pay you.
lost me on that
Internetpirate3 Your comment did not show, i actually have never had one of these blow the low sprag. where you towing with this vehicle, you could e-mail me at gsferraro@yahoo.com
Sorry just saw you responded to my comment 8 months ago. Was not towing with the truck but was driving 12-14 hours a day pretty regularly so lots of extended highway mileage. I have a picture of the blown low sprag I could email you if interested.
@@Internetpirate3 gsferraro@yahoo.com
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Can you please write down all the kits part numbers that you used there?
Have to get the number of the banner kit from my rep, it would be a Transtar number
@@GaryFerraro you are showing this on camera but it is Unreal to read condition.
Me
Thanks for watching