That's very kind of you to say, though I am surrounded by exceptional artists who I can ask for tips from all the time, without their guidance I would not be advancing as I am most likely. Plus the community at large is super helpful, I've got so much advice from so many people both amateur and pro alike!
My very first experience with my airbrush, I just had a piece of plasticard, and I was aiming to trying a get a basic understanding of how the trigger worked and the effect opening it more or closing it more would have. I got about 20-30 seconds of splattering and spluttering, and then about 40 minutes of learning to dismantle and clean it after i clogged it to all hell. IMO THE single hardest skill with the airbrush is learning how to thin paint to clogging doesn't happen. And even now, 2 years later, I still get some clogs. I wouldn't choose to be without it for how conveniently and quickly (clogs not withstanding) I can prime, base and varnish (no more rattle cans and trying to dodge our great UK rain drops) but it's certainly taken some learning compared to getting paint on models with a physical brush
46:10 This one is so prevalent I've even heard Duncan himself repeat it. His version was that the mica flakes would transfer through the paper and stain the sponge, and thus contaminating your other paints. Of course this is nonsense, because paint pigment is finer than the mica flakes, and that pigment doesn't easily transfer through the membrane. I've also heard that the mica flakes will wear down and tear the membrane paper faster, which is much more believable. Consider however that membrane papers are meant to be single use, and that Redgrass's re-usable papers are officially only good for 4 uses. Theoretically you aren't using a membrane paper long enough for this to happen, unless you're really heavy handed with it. Add in that I'll use the same """single-use""" membrane paper for weeks at a time with no problem.
Boost - the whole "metal flakes will get through but the pigment in my yellow glaze won't" is once you think about the physics just obviously false. I reckon it mainly comes from beginner painters not having good brush / water hygiene between non-metallics and metallics and blaming the wet palette because it's a new tool, or people repeating a piece of advice "do your metals separately as that makes brush / water hygiene easier" and just Chinese whispering both the advice and the justification _ Paul literally did this in the segment.
A good note on Paul taking George's paint recipes and simplifying it, it's really quite incredible how we can all adjust the level of complexity in this hobby, to where it's dialed in to each individual preference.
Thank you so much for the eye tip. I've been doing my other eye with the model upside down, and it's a struggle to line it up correctly. This makes a ton of sense, and I'm excited to try it out.
Used to suffer from ‘overnight highlights disappearing’ myself. I know EXACTLY what you mean. Got to just follow and trust the recipe. They always look different under the lamp as well
I am fully in the paint for enjoyment camp - while improving incrementally and probably less consciously. But I love how you guys look to push yourselves.
57:34 when I was getting into Warhammer at first, my pals had the maxim "thin your fricken paints" which helped me out a lot. Not exactly "two things coats" but it was still useful
I airbrush so I can establish my base coats quickly then spend like 90% of my time doing the fine detail painting to the best of my ability. I'm not fiddling around trying to get the perfect layer of purple or whatever color isn't easily found in a rattle can.
For mold lines, if you want to get absolutely sure they're gone, take a leaf out of the scale modelling community book and go over them with a marker, that way when you're sanding them down, you have a visual indicator of when you're properly gone
A question for James about your decision to focus on competition painting/variety/being outside your comfort zone to learn, will you be working on some non-GW and/or non-gaming use pieces? In 2014, after a confusing (disappointing, maybe) experience at a competition, I decided to go in the other direction - just focus on painting armies for fun.
Being in South aus, with the dry climate, the idea of needing to use a hair dryer to speed up drying is totally foreign to me. I suffer from the opposite problem at times with paint drying on the brush too fast.
Such a healthy attitude from James, you literally can't do everything and focussing on a hobby goal (as broad of focussed as you like) I think is quite a good idea. Intentionality can really help your own feelings of achievement, but obviously with a level of looseness that suits you - more hobby guilt is not what anyone needs!
1:06:55 game changer for me with eyes was an size 0 brush that had a 30 degree angle a bit before the ferrule Helps keep hands and brush out of the way on both sides
Mr. Miyagi style exercises for painting minis is hilarious. Imagine James in a karate gi and headband: “Show me ‘highlight the shoulder’! Now show me ‘edge the base’. Very good Paul-San.” 😂
One thing I can’t seem to replace is seraphim sepia, I’ve been trying to do shading without washes but I can’t replicate the seraphim sepia over averland sunset, but with 150+ Templars done with yellow weapons my crusade might be committed and I do love how it looks
A suggestion from digital painting that might help with getting a "fresh eyes look" is to take a photo and flip it horizontally. When doing digital painting that can help to notice what parts of your composition or proportions are "off".
James bowing out of the armies just means he knew he wasnt going to win the contest. Fair play though, i dont know how people commit to full armies in one go, I have to bounce around
First off, you don't need an airbrush, yet later, don't use warpstone glow or baal red with a brush, as you'll need 6 coats and it will all take forever.
Question for 'question of the week' - why do you never use my awesome T-shirt/sweater modelling photos when plugging the merch? Asking for a friend.....
Was watching your army painter range video got a few of them pretty decent. I was wondering if you have tried ak paints some really good products. Cheers for the great videos boys.
Need to take a moment and say, Pauls blood angel looks absolutely amazing. Its cool to see how good he's gotten this fast.
That's very kind of you to say, though I am surrounded by exceptional artists who I can ask for tips from all the time, without their guidance I would not be advancing as I am most likely. Plus the community at large is super helpful, I've got so much advice from so many people both amateur and pro alike!
My very first experience with my airbrush, I just had a piece of plasticard, and I was aiming to trying a get a basic understanding of how the trigger worked and the effect opening it more or closing it more would have.
I got about 20-30 seconds of splattering and spluttering, and then about 40 minutes of learning to dismantle and clean it after i clogged it to all hell.
IMO THE single hardest skill with the airbrush is learning how to thin paint to clogging doesn't happen. And even now, 2 years later, I still get some clogs.
I wouldn't choose to be without it for how conveniently and quickly (clogs not withstanding) I can prime, base and varnish (no more rattle cans and trying to dodge our great UK rain drops) but it's certainly taken some learning compared to getting paint on models with a physical brush
46:10 This one is so prevalent I've even heard Duncan himself repeat it. His version was that the mica flakes would transfer through the paper and stain the sponge, and thus contaminating your other paints. Of course this is nonsense, because paint pigment is finer than the mica flakes, and that pigment doesn't easily transfer through the membrane.
I've also heard that the mica flakes will wear down and tear the membrane paper faster, which is much more believable. Consider however that membrane papers are meant to be single use, and that Redgrass's re-usable papers are officially only good for 4 uses. Theoretically you aren't using a membrane paper long enough for this to happen, unless you're really heavy handed with it. Add in that I'll use the same """single-use""" membrane paper for weeks at a time with no problem.
56:58 What do you mean "accidentally"? It's better that way because it actually tastes of something
Boost - the whole "metal flakes will get through but the pigment in my yellow glaze won't" is once you think about the physics just obviously false.
I reckon it mainly comes from beginner painters not having good brush / water hygiene between non-metallics and metallics and blaming the wet palette because it's a new tool, or people repeating a piece of advice "do your metals separately as that makes brush / water hygiene easier" and just Chinese whispering both the advice and the justification _ Paul literally did this in the segment.
A good note on Paul taking George's paint recipes and simplifying it, it's really quite incredible how we can all adjust the level of complexity in this hobby, to where it's dialed in to each individual preference.
Thank you so much for the eye tip. I've been doing my other eye with the model upside down, and it's a struggle to line it up correctly. This makes a ton of sense, and I'm excited to try it out.
Very useful information as usual!! Cheers guys from US!
Used to suffer from ‘overnight highlights disappearing’ myself. I know EXACTLY what you mean. Got to just follow and trust the recipe. They always look different under the lamp as well
I am fully in the paint for enjoyment camp - while improving incrementally and probably less consciously. But I love how you guys look to push yourselves.
57:34 when I was getting into Warhammer at first, my pals had the maxim "thin your fricken paints" which helped me out a lot. Not exactly "two things coats" but it was still useful
I airbrush so I can establish my base coats quickly then spend like 90% of my time doing the fine detail painting to the best of my ability. I'm not fiddling around trying to get the perfect layer of purple or whatever color isn't easily found in a rattle can.
For mold lines, if you want to get absolutely sure they're gone, take a leaf out of the scale modelling community book and go over them with a marker, that way when you're sanding them down, you have a visual indicator of when you're properly gone
ngl, the advice from James regarding painting eyes, blew my tiny mind.....
A question for James about your decision to focus on competition painting/variety/being outside your comfort zone to learn, will you be working on some non-GW and/or non-gaming use pieces? In 2014, after a confusing (disappointing, maybe) experience at a competition, I decided to go in the other direction - just focus on painting armies for fun.
Being in South aus, with the dry climate, the idea of needing to use a hair dryer to speed up drying is totally foreign to me.
I suffer from the opposite problem at times with paint drying on the brush too fast.
Good shout on the upside down head. I did this and painted a lovely eye but about half a mm lower than the other.
Such a healthy attitude from James, you literally can't do everything and focussing on a hobby goal (as broad of focussed as you like) I think is quite a good idea.
Intentionality can really help your own feelings of achievement, but obviously with a level of looseness that suits you - more hobby guilt is not what anyone needs!
1:06:55 game changer for me with eyes was an size 0 brush that had a 30 degree angle a bit before the ferrule
Helps keep hands and brush out of the way on both sides
"eat the meal that I'm cooking" another classic Jamesism
Mr. Miyagi style exercises for painting minis is hilarious. Imagine James in a karate gi and headband:
“Show me ‘highlight the shoulder’! Now show me ‘edge the base’. Very good Paul-San.” 😂
One thing I can’t seem to replace is seraphim sepia, I’ve been trying to do shading without washes but I can’t replicate the seraphim sepia over averland sunset, but with 150+ Templars done with yellow weapons my crusade might be committed and I do love how it looks
Great content! Love the channel.
Use the blutac test to check if the mould line/gap is still present
I hate realizing ive missed a mold line RIGHT as im placing a finished piece in the case 😭
I feel your pain!
Metallics behaving weirdly in a wet palette is real.
The quality of Warpstone Glow for my Salamanders has resulted in me leaning on Vallejo and ProAcryl as my go-to paints.
THANK YOU FOR THE EYE TIP! Jesus. That’s been such a damn bother.
A suggestion from digital painting that might help with getting a "fresh eyes look" is to take a photo and flip it horizontally. When doing digital painting that can help to notice what parts of your composition or proportions are "off".
Can contrast paint be used on the wet palette? I’m fairly sure it can’t, but good to hear the experts take on it
James bowing out of the armies just means he knew he wasnt going to win the contest. Fair play though, i dont know how people commit to full armies in one go, I have to bounce around
34:30 You tell them George! 😂😅
Tell you what then, 'a few thin coats' for a slogan.
First off, you don't need an airbrush, yet later, don't use warpstone glow or baal red with a brush, as you'll need 6 coats and it will all take forever.
Kill team Category,.... Mordians ;)
Question for 'question of the week' - why do you never use my awesome T-shirt/sweater modelling photos when plugging the merch? Asking for a friend.....
James is a legend, anyone know his instagram ?
Hey dude, very kind of you! It’s Jamesotero_figureart
George needs to wash his t shirt if hes always got it on.
Was watching your army painter range video got a few of them pretty decent. I was wondering if you have tried ak paints some really good products. Cheers for the great videos boys.