89 Cherokee 4.0L Lifter Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- 1989 Jeep Cherokee XJ Pioneer Renix 4.6L I6 AW4 NP231 6" RE Lift 35"x12.5" KM2s
Lifter tick was NOT my issue, check the Piston Slap video for my fix: • 89 Cherokee 4.0L Pisto...
ENGINE TECH L2011-4 lifters were used.
If you hear a constant light ticking in your valvetrain even after the engine has warmed up, you may have stuck lifters. Sometime fresh oil or oil additives can free up sticky lifters, but If not you'll have to got through the lovely process shown above.
The Cylinder Head MUST come off to replace the lifters in the Jeep 4.0L I6. The 2.5L I4 lifters CAN be replaced with the cylinder head in place however.
![Jeep Cherokee: Cylinder Head Gasket Replacement Procedure/ 0331 TUPY 4.0L ['96-'01 XJ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/j_uNYbUiASg/mqdefault.jpg)
![Jeep Cherokee: Cylinder Head Gasket Replacement Procedure/ 0331 TUPY 4.0L ['96-'01 XJ]](/img/tr.png)
He found out later it was #6 piston skirt slap.
I think rings wear to the point piston cocks in the bore after each ignition of gas. Popping the piston skirt against the cylinder wall.
Hopefully folks see this before they comment! This video was only to show the process of replacing lifters since I already filmed it all. My noise was actually Piston Slap which was covered in the next video here: ruclips.net/video/VAkmlvW9fYA/видео.html
@@NickInTimeFilms Hey Nick! Just a tip. You can use a timing light to diagnose engine noise very easily. The camshaft sprocket is twice the diameter of the crankshaft sprocket. Do the math. :)
@@NickInTimeFilms My jeep I'm driving now has 246000 miles . My summer jeep grand Cherokee has 204,000 miles both 6 cylinders . I'm 59 years old. Have had many vehicles. I always use marvelus mystery oil . Replacing 1 quart with marvelus mystery oil. No noises. As you stated gum, dirt builds up. With marvelus mystery oil. No problem. FACTS 💣💣💣💣
@@markallison8854 I read your comment like an ad lol
@@josephtravers777 how do you use a timing light to identify engine noises
hey bro i just want to let you know you did NOT do all that for nothing. This video gave me a much deeper understanding of my xj engine. thank you!
just did this in my '00 literally a week ago after I found out that I had the infamous cracked head. I never pulled a head from an engine before and found it to be alot of fun. Good videos keep them coming man
+Lee Teodore You get to learn your engine real quick doing that job.
Sometimes I find your videos to match my current project. Other times, I just watch them like a series! I have to say...if I did all that work disassembling my engine (Dealing with the entire engine full of coolant is just the most annoying thing to me), I would absolutely just replace every single part I could access before putting it back together. Even if it looked just fine, I'd replace it all with brand new after that! I love watching how this Jeep came to be.
Edit After watching whole thing: Hysterical how you were talking to the stubborn lifter on 6, rofl!
These damn Jeeps are so rewarding to get right when you get them dialed in and maintained, but so infuriating when you spend days on a painful, time consuming, sometimes expensive repair which has absolutely zero effect on your problem. I swear at least half of my repairs end up with me going "Well...I guess those parts are new, now..." having no effect whatsoever on the rest of the engine's function.
I got 200k and about a day later i didn’t play my
music loud when i was driving and i could hear a little tick. I knew it was my lifters and just wanted to watch a video to see how i do it on a 4.0. Took me and dad about 5 hours and a lunch break to replace all 12 and i got to paint my valve cover and put a new gaskets in to get rid of my oil leaks. makes me pretty happy
"Confuddled" THATs the word I've been looking for when working on my Jeep...
make sure when you put new lifters to grease the camshaft contact surface with moly lube or you risk destroying the camshaft. Then you're supposed to run it 20 minutes at 2000 rpm to break the lifters in. been there with my '89, it worked! Good luck
This is how I broke in my engine. Let it start and idle for 30sec till everything sounded decent, then 20min break-in. Cam and lifters turned out fine, had a piston slap issue after 600 miles, but that's a different set of parts.
Believe me. These engines when assembled at the factory were never run at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes. Infact these engines where never even run under power until they were started to drive the vehicle off the end of the assembly line. The only time these engines were turned over in the factory was any hand rotation for assembly purposes and when they were spun on the cold test stands for maybe a minute tops. This was done to check a number of engine conditions. Spark timing, compression, oil pressure, oil pressure relating to crank to oil supply inlet and numerous other functions.
A lot of times you can pull a plug and the slap will go away with the loss of cylinder pressure, it will be a little loud with the air coming out of the plug hole but the noise should go away. you can also snake a piece of 1 1/2 inch pipe up against the block to listen, some guys will put a plunger or funnel on the ear side. I would say these tricks work 50%. It sounds like a cracked piston skirt or loose wrist pin to me. I have heard loose fly wheel and flexplate bolts sound like this. I would also check the balancer and look for extremely fine cracks in the rockers.
tried pulling the spark plug, it was too loud to tell. last video shows everything though. it was piston slap
I was gonna say the same based on my grand cherokee also 4.0
honestly thank you this video just sealed the deal. I'm now confident I can do this job right 😊
It's a 1989 Jeep!!!!!! Keep ALL ur fluids FULL!!! Keep ur Gas clean!!!! Oil Changed and Spark plugs cleaned and air filter and so on!!!!! And DRIVE the SOB till it won't go anymore, It's a 1989 JEEP!!!!!!!! I'm 33 and have owned around 44 vehicles in my life!!!! I just bought a 1992 Jeep for $150 cause the rear end was going out!!!! Everyone calls me MacGuyver so I took a dana 44 out of a 1987 Chrysler New Yorker 5th Ave and fabricated it to fit!!!!! Threw the speedometer off really bad cause the gear ratio but I drive the CRAP out of it on a DAILY BASIS, and i'm gonna keep driving it till it won't go anymore then buy another one when it finally conks out, cause it's A 1992 $150 JEEP!!!!!!! SHIT!?! PS when my speedo says i'm doing 45, I'm actually doing 70mph!!!! Ha Ha!!!!
My first Cherokee was an 86... the speedo was fluttering like a butterfly on crack... got pulled over in a 30 doing what I thought was probably 30-35... turns out I was hitting 55... I explained that the gauge was crazy and that I had no idea... he gave me a huge break with a written warning... found out it was just that little gear in the transmission that needed replacing... off to the boneyard I went and she was pretty steady after that!
Should put you in a home
Note from experienced engine builder never replace individual lifters. Replace them all at once.
Hahaha! Guy you are hilarious with how the 6th lifter gave you issues.... This video was awesome
great job on your vids! great explanation on what your doing without being to wordy or making people seem stupid and having a good personality LOL. overall Fucking great LOL
I got the XJ blues at the moment. I have a tap that I swear is getting louder. I want it to be something easy but I’m sure it’s piston slap… Got 245,324 and drove every mile of it… I don’t have the ambition I had when I was a younger man… what do I do…I got the XJ bluuuuueeesss
Love the honest cursing
Once you replaced rocker bridge assembly and torqued them down, did they still move around..depending on where the cam was positioned? Im doing this exact repair and at the stage of reassembling rockers..but noticed bridges are loose when I spin the motor by the harmonic balancer bolt..maybe it’s normal? Lifters not pumped up yet? Great video!!!!
Hmm, that sounds a bit odd. I had issues keeping them straight when torquing them down, but don't recall them moving in odd ways from the engine. Only the arms and bushings should move
The commentary is hilarious!!😂
Could you do a update/walk around of your jeep now so we could see it?
+Jeffrey Dean I have been thinking about doing an update/walk around video for a while now. I guess the beginning of the new year would be as good a time as any. I'll see what I can do. Got a few videos lined up first though.
@@NickInTimeFilms I know this is an old video, but did you eventually figure out what was up with it?
@@Mr1985Badass Yes, it was piston slap, covered in the next video
Why do you think the rocker arm moved at 2:10 if it had nothing to do with the lifters? I'm in the middle of pulling the head of my '90 xj trying to get rid of a nasty tick, and have rocker arm play like that. Wondering if I need to also look at the bottom end.
Seems like you could put some motor oil in a traditional oil can, and just apply it to the top of the engine with the valve cover off to avoid a dry start
Mine sounds like a tap tap tap until it warms up then it's fine. It also does it more after I do an oil change. Some times it will go away and then you can hear it softly start back up. What's your opinion. I have another rebuilt 4.0 newer model in my garage iv had for almost 2yrs. Just scared to put it in incase it's not all up to snuff plus I have to put in a new ignition with cap and rotor. Guess I should just do it already. Mine is also an 89.. mine definitely doesn't sound like that.
why did your lifters come out upside down , did you cut the video and pull them out with a different tool and just showed us you pulling them out with a magnet ??
I put an exhaust headerish manifold on mine because of the crack they always get and it looks almost exactly like yours. I found that the new manifold had a thicker flange than the old one and because the bolts hold on the intake too, I was getting a bad vacuum leak along the top of the intake. I could spray some brakleen on it and it would rev up; kinda funny. I had it measured and the difference between the intake and exhaust was 70 thousandths. I needed to shim the washers on the bolts to hold it evenly so I cut some slots in some some nickels so the would fit around half the bolt. Nickels are 68 thousandths so it worked great. I thought you mentioned something about that in one of your videos so if you haven't done something sufficient to fix that you may want to look at that. That may be part of your exhaust leak too.
+Sean Ossel I know my exhaust header is a different height then my intake, but I don't remember which is thicker. I may make some half washers if the exhaust leak comes back or gets worse
I gotta check my rockers and that means taking that cover off.
After I take the cover off how much oil should I remove to gently run the motor without flinging droplets all over me and the compartment?
If I have side to side play on my rocker arm is that a stuck lifter?
If u go though the time to do all that work I'd replace all the lifters
My thought exactly. I've always been told to replace things in pairs. So if you're going to have the head off, might as well change all the lifters.
If this was an old engine then I certainly would have. This was a fresh engine with only 700 miles on it so I only did the problem area.
@@NickInTimeFilms How does an engine with 700 miles on it have piston slap?
We’ll see what happened is Um I Lied about the 700 miles yea yea that’s it . If that motor has 700 miles on it and it looks like that you should fire your mechanic. Wait you’re on RUclips teaching people how to do this ? Yeah you’re fired. Plus replace all the lifters anyone watching the llifters pushrods rocker arms. I have vehicles with 170K on them and the motor does not look like that
I've got milage records for everything bud so you can just call the hell down there for a second. The lifters weren't even the problem, it was piston slap from a seized wrist pin. Put in a new piston assembly and it's been running just fine for over 15k miles now. And FYI, I don't go to that engine guy anymore because he works out of a shack on the bay. Go find some other reason to be mad on the internet.
Dear Nick, thanks in advance for your knowledge. I have the same noise in my jeep grand cherokee laredo 1999 ZG VM 2.5TD. I`ve found that oil level was too high after run 600 KM aprox., I`ve removed the excess but the noise is there. the strength of the car I feel is the same, could you please tell what is the best and easy way to despite this problem? I live in portugal and jeep maintenance is extremely expensive. thanks pedro
This guy sounds like me when I work on cars. 😂
Thanks for the informative video! Im replacing my rockers and rods. Can the lifters be taken out without pulling the head off?
Not on the 4.0L, not enough room. Can on the 2.5L though
great helpful video, pal - specifically funny at 13:00 !
it is great that you do this. It would take me a week to do it right.
Man i know the feeling. I had been chasing down an exhaust leak on my xj and after taking off the manifolds reworking the whole exhausts, welding in new flanges and putting it back together, the things still leaked. Having already swapped a head on my xj, I feel your pain when you started it and heard you had not fixed it.
It sounds to me more like rod knock or piston slap unfortunately. See lifter tick is just that, a tick kind of like a watch.
What your engine is doing sounds more like a sloppy wrist pin or piston.
I am sure you will find out what it is but it sounds like an expensive repair.
Good luck
+charles villeneuve You're spot on, next week we'll actually get around to fixing it. I jumped to lifters because I wasn't properly diagnosing it. The beginning of the video shows what a lifter tick actually sounds like, and I figured since I have the footage I might be able to help someone else do the job if need. Just wish I knew then what I do now. haha.
+NickInTimeFilms from your comment, I gather that you have already found the issue. If that's the case good for you. Also if that lifter was bleeding out, it was probably on its way out anyway.
+charles villeneuve More editing magic, that was one of the new lifters without oil before I started it. I'm thinking an overheat issue and thick straight weight oil on a cold morning warped the wrist pin and it started wearing out the piston ring until the piston skirt started contacting the bore.
+NickInTimeFilms perhaps on a freshly build engine it made a difference but mine ran all summer on 15w40 rotella even on some cold Canadian mornings(in Summer, mind you ) with no audible damage. It did knock a bit when cold but the noise went away once it warmed up. I switched back to 5w30 for the winter and it stills runs like a champ. Somethings I have learned regarding engines and transmissions is that sometimes a faulty one just slips through the cracks and that it's just par for the course.
@@charlesvilleneuve4052I’ve been thinking about trying the rotella t4. Is 10w30 ok for year round use?
Well I did learn by watching this that I should rethink my Chanel.
sorry I thought I was signed into my triad engine performance account
either way really man!!!
Brody, you are a ABSOLUTE carguy. Your vernacular matches errrrry car guy i know.
and fuuuuuck me, time to figure out if my guys jeep is a lifter or piston slap. FML
One way to make sure your parts stay organized is get a bunch of plastic bags. U-Line is a good source. Label the bags and put the clean parts into the bags immediately.
I'm not sure if the pistons were moly coated on the skirts in 89 or not. I think that came in about 98.
And in case you do not know the piston skirts are not round. They were intentionally made Oval. The skirts should be about .012" of an inch smaller here than across the skirt perpendicular to the wrist pin. The only part of the piston that should actually touch the cylinder walls is this area.
Now somebody needs to figure out a good way to put roller lifters in. Those casting ribs are in the way.
Why wouldn't you put in Roller Harland Sharp Lifter's and Rocker's and Push-Rod's ?
Dude when you install the intake the header flange will suck down but make sure you tighten them in a sequence properly
very good video bro! easily explained and great info as well. hard to believe that look little bit of cylinder wall scoring would cause that much noise! i watched another video that had the same exact issues as mine, #5 exhaust collapsed lifter! i guess its possible to determine the issue by pulling the head and checking the wall cylinder? maybe an easier route would be to drop the oil pan and rotate the crank and inspect the cylinder walls? and check connecting barrings while pan is down as well? im on a tight wire budget man and any advice as to diagnosis many problems at once
+dan porter dropping the pan to check piston skirts and cylinder walls is easier. You can diagnose lifters with just the valve cover off. If you can push them down at all then they aren't holding pressure
+NickInTimeFilms how do you do that?
+NickInTimeFilms give me 20 minutes and I'll send short video of what I'm experiencing on my and why I think it's a lifter despite what mechanics are telling me
+dan porter 2:02 shows what a collapsed lifter looks like.
Did you finally get it solved ? If you did what was your solution? - I also read that if you replace the lifters, you should replace all of them and the cam shaft. " Tolerance issues....must be, I would think that the springs on the valve stems + lash gap + pressures within the lifters would make up for the Tolerance differences" - When I read this in a manual, I was getting skeptical about the BIG motor companies that want us to just buy parts. So DID YOU SOLVE IT YET ?
As long as the collapsed lifters did not wear away the camshaft lobe, it's fine to reuse the camshaft. It's only good practice to replace all lifters in an older engine since the others are sure to go eventually. I believe you are suppose to do a camshaft break-in procedure however to harden the lifter bottoms. This was a fresh rebuild so I wasn't worried.
As for my issue, it was actually piston slap. video of course:ruclips.net/video/VAkmlvW9fYA/видео.html
LOL Huge fan of this video! (talking to the stubborn lifter = been there!)
Who built the motor originally
So it wasn’t the lifter, but my Jeep is making the same noise. Did you ever find out what was making the noise?
Yes, it was piston slap. Covered in the video after this.
did you ever found the problem of the noise? i have a 99 Cherokee making the same noise! #5 exhaust, I can put a screwdriver directly on the valve spring and the noise goes away. i put in new rockerarm assembly & pushrods in #5 cranked it up and run rough for a couple minutes without any noise, clanking or tapping of any sort once the the lifter adjusted the noise came right back! took it to a shop and was told the noise was deeper in the engine???? did u ever get yours straightened out?
+dan porter Yeah, it was piston slap. ruclips.net/video/VAkmlvW9fYA/видео.html
I yell at engines too sometimes individual components. WHYYYYYY GET IN YOUR HOME
that last bolt would be easier with a piece of fuel line/hose wrapped around it. how did removing the head/intake/exhaust as one piece work out compared to the normal way? i removed the head the old fashion way and getting those exhaust bolts on was a bitch!
Just did the same job on my wrangler. Piston skirt on number 1 piston cracked off
Did you just replace the piston?
Bummer, still great video
Do torque specs not exist in Canada?
Why do you say that?
If people don't know what they are doing they shouldn't work on their stoof
Alec M 1 Ugga dugga or 2 ugga duggas
wish I could post pic of what I found when I dropped that oil pan! im surprised it held on so long! and to beat it all the cylinder wall is in good condition
Just needed a new manifold. It overheated at some point late in it's life and then was in cold weather overnight. Warped the manifold. Needs to be replaced. These long manifolds are a little more susceptible to warping.
Bummer dude, but you sure got diagnostics and repair ability on your side.
I replaced a timing chain about 30 years ago, on my 79 Dodge Magnum.
What a nightmare of a chore. I got through it, and it lasted until I donated, at 191,000 miles . I got the car with with 54K on the clock. I should have gotten a Jeep back then.
It had around 86K on the clock when I did the timing job. Worst part? It didn't need the timing chain job, AT THAT TIME. I sure as hell didn't need the aggravation the job gave me. But, I drove it, and it still ran strong up to the donation point. So, I kind of know where you're at. I bet it is piston slap like you suggest, but I hope you get another 4 wheeler to replace it. Have yet to check out the other video you indicated.
+Ray Charles Depending on the engine, a timing chain job can be quite a chore, but at least you can say you learned from it.
For my issue it was piston slap and the issue has been fixed since then.
I'm glad you're back to being happy. But the timing chain thing I went through, I'd never want to do again, under the same circumstances.
So when you still had that "valve tap" sound, I felt for you. I'm not a mechanic, but I did learn. I learned that's the last job I'd ever want to do.
13:00 sounds exactly like me with my zj lmao
Mine is the same way and now I'm bummed! Did you ever find out the problem?
Yes, piston slap. Video on that too
@@NickInTimeFilms thanks, I just watched it. I really didn't want to do all the work you put into your project because I don't have a back up vehicle. So I guess im going to half to it apart. I hear this in 2 places. So I might have to removed 2 pistons. Ouch! Thanks for your help!
Anyone know where to get lifters? Rock auto is all sold out everything i check
Its amazing what a nice painted valve cover can do eh? :D
I know video sound is a bit deceiving, but sound like a knock not a tick. You had it apart to change lifters change them all???Thanks for the video i'll know what to look for.
You are correct, it is more of a knock, specifically piston slap. This was a freshly rebuilt motor so I didn't seem it necessary to replace 700 mile lifters haha. Next video goes over replacing the piston and fixing it.
how many times have you torn down your engine so far?
maybe that tightness in the the last lifter port when you reassembled is what caused it to wear and start tapping.
+barry soetoro Maybe I should start a tally. I'd say 3-5 times so far. I'm getting pretty good at it. haha
NickInTimeFilms you might be hearing the valves through the exhaust leak on the manifold. the 4.0 tended to have shit factory exhaust manifolds that would commonly warp and crack.
+barry soetoro it has a cheap aftermarket header that is warped. This issue here is piston slap, it'll be covered next week.
So did you find what exactly was making all that noise? My Jeep makes exactly the same noise.
Piston slap. That was the next video.
if the face of the lifter isnt worn sometimes you can take the lifter apart and clean it,most top dogs replace the cam with the lifters, any how, I have a 2.5 four banger and just replaced the timing chain and gears, and the tensioner, and I may swap the cam for one that has a little , more lift and duration, the lift at the push rod is .265 and with stock rockers wich I assume are 1.5 which means .400 at the valve, so im look for .425 at the valve, too bad they dont have after market rocker ratios, like 1.6, which can increase the lift without doing a cam swap, by the way I usually toss the head bolts in the trash and use studs, but obvisely that is an issue with the fire wall, but sometimes the fix is a ball peen hammer or a sawz-all my jeep is a 89-90 with 100,00 miles on the odometer, and the bottom cover for the clutch is missing my oil pressure is on spot, with a mechanical oil gauge which reads 75 at start up, and stays at 65-70 at 1500 rpms when warm
Nice video Nick. I like your Renix scanner too.
Ecomikex Thank you thank you. Hope you've learned some new things about your engine
Not really, but I saved the link to share with newbies on NAXJA dot org when they ask a 1001 questions before doing their first head job, LOL. You did a nice job on the video. I need to fill you in someday about my 1985 Franken Jeep, that has a Nissan SD-22 truck diesel transplanted into it. It keeps my Renix jeep family company. It gets 31 MPGs :-)
Man shes breaking in difficult. At least you know that engine back to front, and it's getting newer everyday haha. Seriously though, hat are you going to do about the exhaust manifold? I'm about to buy one and that's really made me worry.
+Joseph McUmber Nothing I really can do. I have tightened it down, driven it for a bit to warm up, then tightened it again so I'm hoping it's sealing. I'll just keep checking on it but nothing I can do about the warpage. I guess I'll just have to hope all the carbon seals it up, lol
Lol. But man that sucks. Is there no warranty? Maybe you could make a shim for it. Worth a shot.
+Joseph McUmber I'm sure a new one from the company would warp too, you get what you pay for, I wasn't expecting much for $108. haha. I've thought about maybe cutting the stiffening brace at the bottom so the ports can flex more, but I'm not sure if that would fix my issue or just make it worse. Unless it comes back or gets worse, I'm just going to leave it.
Haha whatever floats your jeep. Can't wait for the next video!
+Joseph McUmber Me too, that's when we can finally get rid of this nightmarishly haunting sound for good.
I have a tick/tap sound somewhere in my 96 XJ, starts after about 15 sec when its cold. Nice and quiet up till then. Been doing it for bout 6 months now and hasn't gotten any worse. Would love to figure out what it is still.
+Scooby Does it increase with engine speed at all?
It's in rhythm with rpm and does get a little louder under load but not like OMG what the hell is that. Commented before i watched your video, was hoping the noise would not be there after you started it =(
+Scooby If your noise sounds like my noise then it's piston slap. If it sounds like the new noise at 2:22 then it's most likely lifter tap.
I’m having same issue I think when I take it apart it’s going to be wrist pin on connecting rod ! Did yo I ever figure it out
Yes, mine was piston slapped caused by a seized wrist pin. covered in the next video
Ain't diagnosing a byatch... I hate it when I get it wrong. You'll get there, eventually :)
Are these vehicles reliable for daily heavy driving use, In your opinion?
If they are unmodified, maybe. They're kinda high maintenance once you start messing with them
NickInTimeFilms ok thank you!
12:42 me, every day... LOL
Came here for lifter noise. LMAO..! at 13:00. I can quit RUclips now. Everybody is like us!! But yeah. Got top engine rattle. Aaaand we begin the exploration......
Say bro do u happen to know ,if I drop something by lifters and down the holes along the lifters will it go down to oil pan?
Depends how big it was. It's been a while since I've been that deep, but the lifters are blocking the cam, so it might just be sitting in that valley. Hope it's magnetic.
@@NickInTimeFilms yes the lifters r on,and I actually thought that would help but there's couple of holes between number 5 and number 6 and it had to falling in one of those hole,my luck huh,I thought those were there for oil to pass back and fourth,I'll have rig something with piece of magnet,thks for replying to my text,by the way I love watch your videos,take care!!
Hell yes it went down to the oil pan
Since the lifter tick wasn't your issue what was it?
Piston slap. Next video went over that.
You are the best.......... thanks
When you extract the one ☝🏼 before the last one, check your video it came out upside down. If the video is correct you had inserted #5 upside down. Check out your video.
"That's a clackity clack clack"!!!
Could a bad lifter cause backfire through the intake?
maaaybe if it's not opening and closing the valve properly. you could always pull the valve cover and check if any are loose
hey can you please send the link where you bought the lifters?
ENGINE TECH L2011-4 , bought off rockauto
www.rockauto.com/en/parts/enginetech,L2011,valve+lifter,5548
I like this guy bitching at the engine parts as if they care. I do the same and good to see someone else crazy also.
how do I calibrate the balcines .?
Also timing chain slap or loose cam sprocket.
i would try .run the jeep and 1 by 1 unplug each injector or pull the spark plug wire for each cylinder and see when the noise stops. it should tell you for sure which cylinder is making the noise
sounds like a spun rod bearing . hope i am wrong
+godlikegohan2 It is down below. Here's a secret video I haven't publicly posted when I was diagnosing it that shows an elimination test as you have described: ruclips.net/video/q-hHyUOyzuQ/видео.html
+NickInTimeFilms . love the way you. think it through. step by step. great job.
love your videos . i have a 99 jeep cherokee 4.0L
hey, if i take out the connecting rod to block off a bad cylinder can the tappet lifters come out and mess stuff up?
I'm a little confused about the question. So are you talking about the piston connecting rod or are you talking about the pushrod? If you mean pushrod then that's a good question because if the lifter pops all the way out of the hole then it could possible bounce around by the other ones in that little chamber area.
sorry, i mean push rod. the #4 piston in my machine disintegrated so it has sat in my yard for years. i dropped the pan gathered up the piston shards, took the connecting rods out and unplugged the fuel injector. it is now a 5cyl 3.3334 liter engine. it has been running for a while now with no problems. i can't tell, is it possible for a lifter to jump around the engine and mess up other lifters and break my pristine engine? are there barriers between the lifter channels?
video going up on my channel (this one) soon
Noah Agnew did you leave the valve rocker in?
ruclips.net/video/pb5QFMSyWB4/видео.html .......
can the lifters stick and make the engine back fire?
I feel like that is more of a timing issues then lifters.
do u still have the xj?
I do. Still runs like a top.
@@NickInTimeFilms good deal. i havent seen your channel in yrs. im glad u still got it. ill be watching your vids again!
Was this on your stroker or the stock engine?
This was stroked, but it's mechanically almost identical besides the crankshaft and pistons.
On one of your other videos you removed your engine and had it built stroked, is this video with the lifter install/ ticking noise from the that new built engine. Sorry I wasn’t specific with my first question yesterday.
@@chrisb.1301 Ahh, yeah this was on the newly built stroker.
@@NickInTimeFilms I think that I am running into the same issue - Did you ever contact the manufacturer regarding this?
Yeah, my engine builder. Needed a new piston and wrist pin.
Use lacquer thinner n rags with a hanger rod to clean dirty oil do it 3 times then hit it with pressure hot boiling water prefer
Replace the whole thing new they sale kits n set from stems rockers seals valves valves springs keepers retainers. Adjustments are made to buy you some time that parts are wearing out specially after 8 years . n the miles . abuse . overheating .n etc n while added replace bearings on bottom of pan to apply pressure n send it up to the lifters n you will experience the speed. N power. He needs to replace all to find out if rod knock you can replace them easy when replacing the bearings you will have a nice almost new engine except the valves. Pistons n rings ...pistons can be clean by steam hot water spark plugs off lacquer thinner funnels n rag full them up let them set .get a brush not wire at all. Cut thin rags to clean inside with thin metal rod like not bear. Rotate engine in the crankshaft to make it easy on all of the above
Your video is about 24 minutes long. At the 5 minute 37 seconds mark, you pull a lifter with a magnet. The flat shiny side is facing up. At the 5 minute 56 seconds mark, you pull another lifter out with a magnet. The flat shiny side was not facing up!
This can be seen by pausing your video with the space bar key as they are being removed. Was the second one actually installed wrong or did you quickly put it back in the hole because you forgot to start the camera or something?
I fuckin love this video. I have a few piece of shit 4.0s myself. I'll be rebuilding of the the dirty bitches this spring. Cheers.
How did you do the alternator where the ac use to be?
Built a custom bracket: ruclips.net/video/I1lridq1jiA/видео.html
NickInTimeFilms is that a Chevy alternator?
+Ryan Crouch maybe? It's an ad244, got a whole separate video that covers wiring and install of it
A lot of times the lifter bores wear out, nothing you can do..
Ok..so mine is making same noise...WHAT IS THE PROBLEM?
Check the piston slap video
@@NickInTimeFilms balls...i was afraid of that. Thank you for replying.
Did it turn out to be a piston skirt?
Close, Seized wrist pin which scratched up the skirt
Ahhhhhhh, have had four 4.0's bite the dust, three were from cracked/broken piston skirts the fourth was a cracked head, luckily they are easily rebuilt.
much better video
what was the problem with you're engine though
Jason Zagropski Piston slap, check the piston replacement video for that
Dude, try a cast iron straight 6 from an fj60. That's heavy
on that video, I am pushing down on the valve spring side of the rockerarm on #5 exhaust lifter
+dan porter mhmm. Sounds like the lifter is weak and won't hold pressure. see if you can push it down at all.
+NickInTimeFilms that's the thing, I can't push it down like Ive seen on other videos. i replaced the rockerarm assembly & new pushrods. when I cranked it up it idled rough but had no noise after a couple minutes it started idling smoothly but the noise came back! that's the puzzling problem
+dan porter The only other thing would be valve spring or valve seat. seems more like the lifter to me though.
+NickInTimeFilms either a stuck lifter or I have no idea. oil pressure is consistent, plus the noise only goes away on #5 exhaust no, I can only make noise go away on that particular spot/lifter/spring.
It's definitely Exhaust #5 if you can push down and make it go away.
can you drop the piston from the bottom end if you remove the crankshaft?
+dan porter Yeah, if you feel like dropping the Transmission.
Mine doesn't sound that bad but my rebuilt of 1500 miles is knocking
The head on my WJ is nothing like this.....
can the 1995 computer run the 1990 jeep?
You will need to change the flexplate and distributor to the 95 along with transferring sensors to make it work, but the engine itself is compatible.
Good one
Fixing cracked cylinder head is easy very simple