89 Cherokee 4.0L Piston Slap & Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 8 янв 2016
- 1989 Jeep Cherokee XJ Pioneer Renix 4.6L I6 AW4 NP231 6" RE Lift 35"x12.5" KM2s
This is actually a 4.6L Stroker build which uses aftermarket pistons, but the process is exactly the same for the stock 4.0L. The engine started knocking after 700 miles so it was time to tear it down and fix it.
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I'm a Mechanic, that was an awesome informative video! Thank you, for explaining every detail, most people watch videos that only show parts of this procedure, then they have no idea how to finish it! Great job!
I know this is several years old but I thoroughly enjoyed the testing/diagnosing aspect of the first video. Kudo's
Never too old.
I am sorry for your jeep problems and taking so long to find the source but on the plus side it made for great video so thank you for that.
Just a suggestion, use a short length of 3/8 hose over the rod studs, doesn’t leave any glue mess on the threads!
Did you replace all if the rings?
Thank you good idea
Hey Bud, great videos to a fix!!!! My 2000 Grand is lifted 2.5 and I couldn't imagine going through what you went through! In my younger years yea but not in my 60's. Thanks for keeping your head and demonstrating how to be methodical and persistent!
Wish I had seen this video 2 years ago. Had the exact sound on my 2000 grand cherokee 4.7l, unfortunately it was misdiagnosed and then the unthinkable. The engine died. Put a used one in now its starting again. This time I'm prepared thanks to you. Fantastic job explaining and diagnosing the issue. Wish all mechanics had your dogged determination.
Keep up the great work.
First responding to a RUclips video ever.
Sooooo much information. By far the best Jeep engine vid on RUclips. Trust me, I've watched them all. Haha. Keep up the good work.
Good job man-- I love the sound of a running engine after you've had it half apart.
Thanks for posting this video. I been working on my Jeep for weeks trying to figure out where the noise was coming from. As soon as I heard yours run you solved my problem. My Jeep is making the exact same sound.
Mine too... was it piston slap???
Awesome Nick!!! I'm glad you got it sorted. It sounds great!! Can't wait to build my 4.6
Did anyone else notice that the connecting rod was seized to the piston? They were not moving freely and independent from each other, also the piston end of the connecting rod is discolored, meaning it got REALLY hot. This was likely lubrication failure at the wrist pin/con-rod connection point. When they seized together, it started torqueing the piston inside the cylinder forcing the piston to start grinding into the cylinder wall. And since aluminum is much softer than steel, you see most of the wear on the piston, not the cylinder wall.
This is a total bummer dude :(
Jeep 4.0 piston pins are an interference fit on the con rod. The discoloration is normal from heating the small end of the rod to fit over the pin during assembly.
@@bedlamite42My 01 XJ was purchased from 3rd owner in 2019 with 187K. Heard low end knock at idle, bought it anyway. Had Jeep dealer pull oil pan and was told bearings good, and noise was coming from 2 loose/worn wrist pins. Sounds good while driving and made 3 cross country trips, at 204K now. At 195K or so had camshaft, lifters, rods, timing chain replacement at a different Jeep Dealership in Maine. Then ran it to North Dakota just fine. My 93 XJ ran great for 26 years with hardly a problem at all. Sold it at 199K and bought the 01. Long live the XJ 😊.
These are old videos by youtube standards but this is really really good mechanic and education stuff thanks for sharing
The problem was your wrist pin, not enough clearance when installed, or oil starved. you can see the discoloration on the connecting rod and it seems to be chipped. It forced the piston into the cylinder, and, well, you see the results...
the rod is discolored from heating it to install press fit wrist pins. But I agree, the piston/wrist pin clearance seems tight.
Dude that's awesome, you need a beer man.
Hey man i just want to thank you for your display of knowledge. Great work
Great in depth vids! I got a 98 Jeep Cherokee Classic with up country suspension option, only owner. Did upgrade to 3" lift kit with new shocks recently though. My first vehicle I ever bought brand new and drove it off the show room floor after I ordered it with the options.
Within the last week over the holidays, a noise developed and found your video and others as well. But your's was the best at explaining the piston slap noise that resembled exactly my engine noise, and same location. All though I ride, I'd rather not ride in the winter if don't have to freeze, so I gotta resort to taking Jeep in to dealer and have them fix the issue. Hopefully they can fix it quick with only a rent a car for a day or so. Thanks for your detailed vids!
Glad my vids help, hope they can take care of you quick!
Great idea taping the piston rod stud to prevent scratching the crankshaft -- scratches on the cranshaft lead to noise & needing a new crank!
wow... I was wheeling and heard Something let go... only slight unusual sound .... thought it was something to do with the lifters .. but after hearing your engine... I think I have the same issue... When the Motor is Cold it is very loud slap, but once it warms up it only Slaps when I'm underload.... yep makes sense now... Awesome vid and thanks... Ive driven about 100km with this noise Hope I haven't cuased to much damage.
Thanks a lot for the idea of changing the piston while leave the block in the Cherokee. Saved me time and money. Good instructions.
nice job, as loud as it was i was thinking wrist pin from the start. a quality repair you performed for sure.
Awesome video . Lots of information . Keep it up . Now I can go fix my daughters Jeep 😊
Great video. Thank you for all the great details. I have the same issue. I may bring mine to the shop.
Some one told me the 1998-2006 4.0L have thinner pistons that won't go 200K miles, they being a former Tractor mechanic put 1991 Pistons rods and crank I think into a 2002 and have ran it 20K miles so far. I had a 1997 Cherokee Sport 4.0L that went 398K before what we were told was a WRIST PIN but now I think it just needed new pistons
That’s a badass valve cover
i also have an 89 XJ and have the exact same sound i believe you just saved my ass sir thank you.
I’m having this same problem and just watching all the effort, time, and dedication that goes into this my head is spinning 😂 I’m just hoping it’s only one piston
Love the copper look. Thanks for the video.
Couldn’t of asked for anything else thanks man! Keep it 100
I have the same noise in my XJ 99 , you save my time, thanks , I am going to fix it soon
Great video! I've been searching for a week trying to figure out this noise. Watched this video last night, pulled the head today and it was a very slight piston slap. Nothing a little honing and new rings won't fix. Solid video. Keep it up.
I’m so happy you fixed it Bro I’m going to have to do the same thing
I seriously learn a lot in this video my car has a piston slap and I thought there was no hope this video just gave me hope to fix my car
Good video. Good job. Would have liked to see the honing.
Yeah I noticed one of the other guys posted it yeah you did make a really great video on this they have this helped me out a lot I do appreciate it I dig your videos
This video definitely help I found the piston skirt in my oil pan
@Ricky Barber well it was knocking when I bought it I was a sucker and bought it anyways since it was $500 bucks I sent it to the ketchup redline and I heard a snap and a pop. I just swap it out with a ls engine (5.3)
Had a 96 Cherokee for 8 years, piston slap was there, but more typically the quiet low knock. Just bought a 95 GC, and the sound is there as well. Low end knocking. Yours was the loudest I have ever heard. I have often wondered if the short piston skirts contribute to what may be inherent wandering of the piston as it moves up and down, absorbing all the tolerance stack-up and making noise as a result. With all the 4 liters doing this, I'm assuming because they normally don't suffer for it.
And the valve cover looks like a million bucks. Nice job.
Glad the um.... Rebiuld... Worked out for you
Great job. Cheers from Jacksonville Florida
Thanks for sharing. Had the exact same noise and broken piston in the #6 cylinder.
Good job as always. Thanks for the information
I defiantly learned more about the 4.0 while watching this video
great video, and love the colour choice!
Great info. This may be the problem with my 93 cherokee. Thanks for the video
Did it get fixed?? Pancho.
Im planning to do this on my 4.3 vortec. Very informative and useful info for any diyer
I just had this exact thing happen after installing my stroker. About 10 miles after installing it. I was thinking maybe it was a spun bearing till I pulled it back out to investigate. I had .014 ring gap on that piston. Sad to see a brand new ic945 ruined..
That’s quite the job to do in the truck, wow. Kudos
Awesome video sir. You are freaking awesome. Thank you.
Just FYI you can use rubber hose on the studs when removing and installing the pistons instead of duct tape they seem to stay in place better. Anyway great video I might be doing this same job here soon.
Cherokee's here are still fairly plentiful and cheap.. so I am planning on just buying a parts Jeep and pulling the engine and rebuilding it in my free time.. so when/if my 4.0L ever starts acting up I can do a little swaparoo.
awesome man, you should make more videos of you just driving around. haha maybe a good old 0-60? love the vids bro!
I use a deep socket with an external hex on the top outside. Then i use a horizontal extension/crowsfoot and calculate the difference,, works good in lots of places like that rear bolt.
Excellent -thanks for sharing first class "shade tree" repairs ! It's wonderful that AMC left enough room around the engine bay to do this without pulling the engine. But it's even more amazing that AMC's early '60's design is still relevant 53 years later! BTW, How did you solve the exhaust leak that was present at the end of the lifter replacement presentation?
I just cranked down the manifold bolts a little tighter and it was fine
He stole my work coat.
Wow, I'm impressed.
Great video! Lots to learn from.....by the way, do you use it mostly off-road, how many miles on the engine? Thanks, peace
If you have an extra deep well socket the size of that back head bolt you can cut it down to shorter than a deep well but longer than a regular socket. Then you won't bust your knuckles. Nice work by the way!
I have thought about doing that, just never got around to it.
If you decide to just don't do what i did and cut up your only deep well of that size. If you do you will need it 5 minuets later. Trust me.
snap on makes intermediate sockets that length.. im sure they wont a fortune for them, milwuakees new sockets have flats on the outside so you can throw a wrench on them in tight spots, i have 3 sets of cheapo mastercraft sockets and one good set from westward so i have no issue cutting into a mastercraft socket hahah
Great that you take the time to post this shit for all us knuckleheads
Awesome camera work
great video ! Did your machine shop guys also hone the cylinders ? What piston size did you use after honing ? Thanks !
nice! thanks for sharing this. Very informative.
So to be clear, initially when you got that sound it would happen all the time correct? From cold start to warm and continue... right? (*edit* n/m i just read in the comments it was constant)
+Michael Laverty This was a freshly rebuilt engine, only had 600 miles on it. Friend overheated it, wrist pin seized up, scored piston skirt. New piston assembly installed and she's been running strong for 6,000 miles now. Hi volume oil pumps are just asking for trouble, heard more bad than good, mine is fine.
So, you changed from a high volume oil pump, to a regular oil pump? Just asking cuz you said it might've been an oil control problem?
Mine has the exact same noise. Is Piston replacement doable on my own? I am SO over spending money at aa shop.
This entire video shows you how to replace a piston, so that is your call if you think you can do this. I wouldn't call it difficult, but it's time consuming since the head has to come off. Only thing I had the engine guy so is mount the new piston to the rod, install the rings, and tap it in. I bolted it all back up and it worked fine.
Just finished the video. Didn’t look to bad. I’ve definitely done as hard or harder work. The shop the Jeep is at right now (getting re geared) is pretty confident that it is a rod bearing but hearing what my Jeep sounds like sounds like piston slap. Would you mind checking out the video I posted on my account to see what you think? (If it sounds similar to yours) thanks!
Another point to note- mine got rebuilt just likes yours did at 158,000 miles. Had about 3k on the clock when it started ticking
great vid man
I'm not a Jeep man but I have 45 years experience as a mechanic just wanted to drop some info, check your rod for a oiling hole in the rod near the rod bolt , some 6 cylinders had a hole in the rod to squirt oil on the piston skirts , don't know if yours has the hole, but keep it in mind if it happens again, hole could be clogged up.
Thanks for the video. Suggestion when it comes to the socket. Can we just buy a deep socket and then grind or cut it to the best length?
Did your tapping sound diminish as the engine temp rose?
Excellent videos (the lifters vid too). Great visuals, description of what you're doing and why. Huge thumps up to you.
My new fave Jeep channel.
Sub'd.
A piece of rubber hose on the rod bolts is also a good way to protect the crank and they won't fall off.
@nick I've been watching your videos to help me get the transmission out got everything done but now won't start . you seem to know a lot about these Cherokee's Help haha
I think my Jeep was having this same issue and now it doesn’t turn on. :(
I have a fresh 4.0 rebuild and this exact thing just happened to me, same piston, same scoring. Question for you, was the engine guy able to hone the cylinder from the top without dropping the crank? That's the point I'm at and trying to figure out what to do.
Any chance you know what the intake and valve sting tension is supposed to be to check for weak valve springs?
But if six cylinder wasn't getting enough oil did you change the oil sending unit
my 99 jeep grand cherokee is making the same noise and driving it at 70 mph I heard something broke loose and a few days later that particular same noise . Do you think a piston broke loose?
also ill do a video of mine over next few days , my truck been sat for aprox nine months , has a tapping sound now , if you could take a look once ive done it
Amazing job. What would a job like this normally cost? Thanks.
When you're honing the cylinder how did you keep the crank from getting so dirty
So the Piston was not cracked or broken?
Or was there other damage that we could not see in the video? I'm surprised at the noise was that loud with just some scoring on the skirt of the piston.
Was it only making noise after the engine warmed up or also when it was cold?
bud big help this is , i for sure will be shareing
What was the problem with the oil flow then?
Sounds
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Ok so I have the same issue on cylinder 5 did you use a stock sized piston
great video!
for that rear head bolt? could you replace it to a non stud type or cut the upper threads off?? i have to pull my head on a 96 xj that had the distributor gear take out the gear on the cam.. just curious if that could be done. Love your Vids full of great info. Also cool that you're from NJ as well.
Don't see why not as long as its a proper Bolt. I'd probably just hack the top off 1 in the set
Great video! Could you elaborate on whether or not you honed the cylinder? If so, how? Thank you in advance!
The engine guy just brought his flexi-hone and ran it on a drill for a few minutes to clean it up. Luckily that's all my engine needed before putting the new piston assembly in.
Hey bro how did your tech fix the block was there a special tool to sand it down? Sorry I don't know much about machining blocks.
+Fili Ainuu Since the scratches were mostly just on the surface, my tech used a cylinder hone on a drill to just polish up the surface before piston install.
1500 mile motor I had the same thing just happen. Same cylinder too look exactly like yours did.. my wrist pin was almost seized to the pison
All fixed. Sounds and runs great again. Only took 5 hours to put the whole thing back together.
WHAT I NEED TO DO TO CHANGE MY PISTON RINGS??? ANYTHING AROUND THE PISTON???? (
Job well done!!
Nice job.....can I ask....did the tapping get any less when the engine was fully warmed up.
ha ha ha....i am laughing, because the sighs are very similar to the way i take on projects with vehicles. LOL, its like jump in, complain, undo this undo that, complain, maybe even cuss a little here, take more stuff off or apart, few more sighs. Your true blue human ! At least you have your experience that you can fall back on and your not totally in the dark. Great Video ! "NO MORE NOISE ! YES SIRE EEE ! SWEET BABY JESUS ! "
Exacly the same kind of noise in mine 4.0 Grand Cherokee ZG (european made in Graz).
And as I see, a lot of work to vanish it ;)
nice job and video !
I know this is a stupid question but how did you move the piston in the motor im about to open up my motor for the first time ever in my life first timer here
so looks like you removed the ac and put the alternator in its place how hard was that
Can this problem increase blow by?
So what was the cause for the oil loss?
Hey Nick, I’m back with another question. Did the engine guy hone out just the one cylinder to an oversized piston size, like 20 or 30 over? (.020,.030) I’m curious because I really don’t want to pull my motor but want to be able to just put another piston in her.
No, the engine was bored 030 over and the cylinder was just polished for the replacement
So why was it not getting oil to that one piston is what im wondering
3 years later and now I'm having the same issue😆
my luck went just like yours, I put all brand new lifters and pushrods, no fix , the noise still there, but mine has a missfire, I heard the cam lobes could be wore out, planning on replacing the camshaft, any thoughts?
Well, if you want to get technical you can measure lobe lift and see if any are severely worn. Get you a dial indicator and set it up on push rod and give 'er a spin and see what you min and max is then compare them. I show that here: ruclips.net/video/x4qW-bSQmdc/видео.htmlm2s
You got a knock or just a misfire because i would check spark, fuel, and compression before tearing into the engine big time.