Taking our 4.0L XJ Engine to the machine shop
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- Опубликовано: 13 фев 2022
- This week our 1993 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L block heads to the machine shop for some TLC. After it's baked and blasted, Mikey helps us get everything bored and decked so we're ready for paint. Davin also picks up a new skill refreshing the flywheel while we're there.
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This might the most amount of love I have ever seen a jeep 4.0 get. Not that they were bad. They were always just expected to work. Just flush the cooling system thoroughly every 50k miles.
Well, as with any car, no ?
@@marcryvon indeed, but a lot of Chrysler products, specifically, are known for coolant eating head gaskets when said coolant gets old.
The only thing that killed the 4.0 was no maintenance. Poor maintenance wouldn't stop them.
@@marcryvon not really… you KNOW a Honda will need regular timing belts to live, for example. A Jeep 4.0 just goes forever unless you don’t even give it oil or something abusive like that.
@@stevelacker358 Even then they last longer than they should....without oil. I'm sure the 4.0L would run on mud if it had to....
Miss the days when you could take your flywheel down to your local NAPA and they would machine it while you picked up a clutch kit.
We're certainly lucky to have a great local shop like Thirlby in our backyard. Makes a HUGE difference for all the projects we do!
I had a heck of a time finding a place that would refinish a flywheel for me a year or two back, most machine shops seem to have gotten rid of their flywheel grinders
Nice to see the 6 cylinder engine getting some attention. I'm working on a crossflow head design for Jeep 4 and 6 cylinder engines. I'm starting with a 351 Cleveland head on a Jeep 4 cylinder. Eventually going to cast aluminum heads for both the 4 and 6 cylinder engines.
Here is my tip of the day: if you are tearing up an engine and building it from scratch, you might as well throw some modern after market parts and do incremental improvements to achieve better efficiency. For those saying "is all about originality", well, once the engine has been opened there is nothing original about it.
That's basically what we're doing with this engine. There's no plan to keep it original at all. Looking to do some minor upgrades to give it a bit more power and torque. Should be fun!
keeping cars "Original" is often more expensive. Good for historical reference, BUTT, always remember "originally" the factory that made the car also made many compromises and cut corners (they have to).
Do things to make the car YOUR car.
Improvements are just that, IMPROVEMENTS!
I like that it isn't expensive to buy pistons and rings made of modern stuff so that they last longer. I often see pistons with performance coated skirts for engines that were invented before it. It's also nice to have piston rings that are made of better stuff.
Undercut valves are pretty neat, they can add a little more port flow without porting the cylinder head.
That other great thing about rebuilding is that you can hand balance all your pistons and connecting rods. With a little sanding, you can get a better balance than factory. When building a V engine, you will have to have your crank balanced.
@@Hagerty Exactly! Usability is what keeps cars on the road (and sell more policies), originality keeps them locked in a garage. Never stop Driving!
@@Hagerty Just Asking How many Thousands are remove from the Block and Head ?
I never tire of watching and listening to Davin work.
I got my wife out in the shop working on it.
G’day from Australia 🇦🇺! We love our Jeeps over too!
i just rebuilt a head on one of these and installed it in shop class, definitely a nice simple engine to work on
It’s a great series so far. Can’t wait to see what you do with it!
Really diggin this series!!! 4.0 for ever!
There's something therapeutic about taking an old mess of something, be it an engine or anything else, and fixing it up proper. I have an 04 Grand Cherokee I bought from auction on a whim, though it has a 4.7 V8 and I spent the time doing things up right. Love that engine.
I got my hind end off the couch yesterday. Good times.
thanks for that motivation Davin! I do need to get in the shop and get my stuff done
That was pretty cool. Neat seeing the rebuild process from start to finish.
I'm really enjoying this engine.
Enjoying the hell out of this. Our Service Advisor just bought a 2001 Cherokee. Blew my mind on your disassembly here that that engine has never had a crossflow head! Checked my guy's 2001 and yeah. Wow. Great engines though. Only part of a Jeep we don't seem to have to fix. His is down to 10mpg though, so I imagine I've to figure that out lol
Whoa, 10!? My 96 4.0 5spd cherokee pulls 21 combined. Only thing that really tanks it is spending a lot of time at 80+mph.
1:10 I have similar cylinder head shipping pods in my living room. Cats love to jump in and out.
Awesome 2dr 5spd XJ. It’s gonna be a solid build!
Amazing work as always.
I remember replacing a starter ring in a flywheel in my mechanics class back in the day. My teacher was super old school and was awesome!
great video👍 can't wait to see the next one
Love those Jeeps with the inline 6. My dad had a late 80’s model with over 300k on it. Wish we would’ve held onto it--
I took my Jeep I6 cylinder head to machine shop on a 50cc scooter once, under my feet
Lol nice. The blocks aren't really that heavy but probably for you it felt like a second person on though lol.
I want a 4.0L block coffee table someday, but my wife would murder me.
Forget it ! Trust me, I tried and tried again with a clean Honda block. No success.
I'm turning my old Ford 4.6 cams into lamps and my wife doesn't want them in the house either lol
‘Tis better to ask for forgiveness than permission. That’s easy for me to say, though; my wife wants a motorcycle in our dining room.
Loved it! I just rebuilt my 4.0
I would never expect that removing that big tooth ring from flywheel is so easy :D
Nice work🔥🔥
I really dig this guy's presentation, seems like a good blue collar regular guy do more with him
Fantastic vid keep um coming
Sitting here watching this cool video as my son is considering buying. 2001 XJ with a bad motor for $700.
Also, have a trailer in the garage half torn apart that I need to get to welding on refinishing.
Time to get my butt out to the garage
Ahhh i love these vids.
Like the machine shop did a very nice chamfer on those bores. Details matter.
Still have a 4.0 as a daily driver. One of the best motors ever. I’m at 148,000 and still going strong.
Thanks for the life advice
so lucky you are to have the 6cyl WITH the MANUAL trans!
i'm so jealous. i've got a beautiful white 4 door and i've been looking for a stick shift donor for years now
The rough casting flash left on the block can be removed by using a punch and a hammer, it usually isn't necessary to use a carbide bit to remove it. The place that you should use a carbide bit on are around the outside edges of the block where there are sharp lips of casting flash that can cut up your hands. Removing these can make it easier to handle, and make the paint job look more professional.
Yeah, got work done but it was shovelling the driveway.
That block should Rock with some paint. 😎👍🇨🇦
Might be worth it to get a 4.2 crank from rockauto and make a 4.5ish stroker motor with those 30 over pistons.
338000 on my 4.0, still running great. I hear the piston slap when idling. Reminds me of a little diesel engine. Oh it's in a 1993 Cherokee.
I have a 93 with 333800...good choice!
It doesn't look like they put the cross hatching on the cylinder walls. It's important for keeping oil stuck to them. When I bought my '97 five years ago for $500 with 190,000 mi I looked inside with a endoscope and the cylinder walls still had all the cross hatching and the pistons and everything were so clean. That Jeep was well taken care of. It now has 260,000 mi and still going strong. I restored everything over the years, it has no rust anywhere and won't either due to all the rust proofing I've done and continue to do. I only drive it in bad snow or off roading or towing about 30 times a year. I'll never sell it! One day it will be one the only few left and probably worth quite a bit. The '85 Toyota Corolla GTS (AE86) I bought basically mint back in 2004 is another vehicle I have I won't sell. It's worth a small fortune now but I can't part with it. That sits in storage and I take it to the track a few times a year as well as the local shows where it's usually the biggest hit with the younger guys.
Dang, Davin, drag a comb through that hair! 🙂 Just givin' ya crap! Looks good, keep up the good work!
Nice dude
yeah waitin for the cylinder heads, soon they come, back in da garage
David from Hagerty is right... my work ain't getting done on its own.
Крутьь!! Дэвин как всегда на высоте
Oh, we got a Kyle cameo!
That 4.0L flywheel has a taper built into it for smooth engagement. If your machinist grinds it out your new clutch will shudder. Trust me! I have a 98 wrangler 4.0L with a 5 speed
Oh that jeppy, she will be so happy lol. Didn't think you'll end up punching it out .030 over. That'll be nice little power bump with
the added bit of compression. 😀
Yeah they got some pretty ugly flashing going on. I took a chisel on mine and then a dremal to clean up the roughness a bit.
One thing want to say is that the little valleys beside the lifter bores tend to house crud. I don't know about this one I imagine
shop is super super thorough but they have drainage holes that are fairly small and can clog over the years. Because of where
they are it's hard to clean out on the first pass usually.
Another place crud likes to collect up is at the very back of the block at the bottom of the cooling jacket near the bottom of the jug,
basically the floor of the jacket. You have to get in there with a long "pokey jabby" and possibly a vacuum to suck the mess back out.
It's a cause of overheating/high-temp issues at the back of the engine. Make sure those have gotten cleaned out.
Today's oils I don't think cause of much issue with the lifter valley drains but back then with the much cheaper conventional oil I think
maybe was the cause of poor oil drainback/pressure issues after a few years of running, with prolonged oil changes if that was the case.
Can't wait to see what colour you chose for it! Red might be too flashy maybe a nice charcoal gray. Maybe a little darker red might be nice
actually. I plan on painting mine a dark red for my 98 2dr for when I haul the motor out of that one later. I'm sure you got something cool
to spray on. 😉
Awesome
You need to have a project like an old Dodge Power Wagon so your shop has a 4 wheel drive shop truck to use in the winter.
It's like you listened to the conversation we had in our office last week... 🤔😉
Great vid, really enjoyed!! 👍👍👍
Science! aka the starter ring. Probably could have frozen/chilled the flywheel too to demonstrate such things. I've used it myself a few times too, to freeze/heat something to fit over or easy press fit in 👍
Yup! heat is easier though, unless you're using uncommon methods like liquid nitrogen you can only cool double digits while its easy to heat into the triples.
Sweet
Muito bom 👏👏
Could see the polisher/tumbler running in the background on the bench. What make/model is that? I need a little tumbler to clean parts and can’t seem to find one I like.
Another technique I have done besides heating the ring gear I have placed the flywheel in the freezer to shrink and made the install easier.
Done swolled up
Saw the Tahoe in the vid and it made me wonder what vehicles do the Hagerty crew choose to daily! Would be great if y'all would make a video about this! Something like what you drive, why, and what mods ypu have done!
A flat afce for the clutch disk to sit against...lucky you. The stepped flywheels can be a real pain.
A balance parts is a good option.
ARP rod bolts “dang” supercharge it 😉
The raw cast looks pretty cool, perhaps a coat of semi-gloss clear?
Did you re-balance the flywheel after grinding and the new ring gear?
i wish i had a shop . . .and some work . .
How do you make sure that when you recondition a rod that you don't change the journal to pin distance?
weird how loud this video is. thx for content
I want to see this 4.0 stroked to the max and then supercharged
CHINGON!
When you get back to the vintage dirt car project?
Soon!
David what is the painting process and products they are using to paint the engines for you guys? I sent my block off to be machined and when it comes back I am planning on giving it a nice paint job. I am an automotive painter and am thinking of epoxy primer, base coat that matches the body and a semigloss clear coat. Can you do a detailed paint process video on this block? Thanks.
Isn't the oil pump an issue on these?
Is there an upgrade for it?
Slam dari Indonesia
So what liters would this bring the 4.0 too after it being bored .30 over ? And if you put the 4.2 crank in while it’s bored .30 over what would the liters be then?
Pays to have a skill
Just saying it might be pretty funny to put this in an XJ6 jag.
Curious as to why you don't use torque plates when you bore a block? Love your content by the way!!
Boring and honing with a torque plate is of course better, but perhaps for this lightly loaded, closed deck, cast iron block they aren't critical to getting adequately circular bores?
😎👍
Question: 4 thou off the top of the block shouldn’t affect compression too much, but 30 thou over six cylinders combined with the block skim and new pistons/rings should give it reasonable giddy up, or not really?
Actually not a whole lot HP wise.
Torque numbers may come up a bit though.
These engines are designed for torque, and that comes from stroke mainly.
Were I to go this far on the rebuild, I'd go ahead and do a 4.7 stroker crank and rods. Either way its bulletproof, because these do nothing powerwise after about 3800 rpm (redline is 5200), so it'll never grenade from being overreved.
What's the purpose of running the engine block through the open-flame oven? Is that for cleaning?
9:42 is that a primer layer before the paint is done?
i dont have a shop i have a parking lot. so getting out there to do work well not so motivated. i have a 99 xj and it needs work but have to wait on weather conditions.
Le da un parecido al Ford 200 6 cilindros en línea 🧐
Team Hagerty, What happened to the dirt track racer?
A trick i love using for stuck bolts nuts everything stuck to hell i use oksy acetylin heat it cherry red and douse it in water
My friend is about 40yo and allways heat things up normally then trying to get it unstuck an he thaught it wasnt going to work tried his method, dident work
Tried my method came right off:) so try that one or another time:)
I had the same xj jeep but i make a swap engine for a ford 3.6 litre engine six in line from argentina
What’s the purpose for the heat at 2:45?
5:00 what does that green machine do?
RULE OF THUMB / approximation of the rate of expansion due to temperature for steel /iron
For every 100 degrees Fahrenheit, steel will expand 0.001 inch for every inch of material.
This is not EXACT butt, it is pretty darn close.
If you have a circle of steel that is 12 inches in diameter and heat it 100 degrees F it will expand about 0.012 inches.
how much would it be for me to do this to my 4.0 6cylinder tj ??
Better make this thing a stroker
What brand engine hoist are you using?
Everyone around the world uses the same type of chinese hoist. My one is blue. Greetings drin Germany.
@@stefankirchner3659 Chinese is what I am trying to avoid. I was able to find a US made motorcycle lift, but it wasn’t easy.
What happened to the race car you were working on???
Why no torque plate when you rebore?
It’s a low revving closed deck cast iron block. Honing with a torque plate is unnecessary for good oil control .
Why did you have to put it into an oven?
Why do you bake the engine?
It does a great job of removing any and all grease, oil, and other grime.
Where is the Machine shop?
Why do you BBQ the block?
To burn any caked in grease, dirt etc. Best method.
How is the 37 Ford coming?
Making a bit of progress on it here and there! We'll be jumping back into the whole project soon. Glad you won't let us forget about it! ☺️
Boom, or Blam?
F.Y.I.: the ring gear usually is worn in two places, because an engine normally stops in one of two places, 90% of the time