How Do You Destroy A 4.0L Jeep Engine THIS BAD? Intentional? Neglect? Ill-Repair? I Am IMPRESSED!
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- Опубликовано: 16 дек 2022
- For parts please go to www.Importapart.com or Email us at Importapartsales@gmail.com.
What the! A Jeep 4.0, in this condition? HOW! These engines are supposed to be bulletproof! However as we've seen on this channel, people can and will destroy everything including engines we deem indestructible.
The 4.0L is based on the old AMC 4.2 258ci, which was also a VERY good engine. The 4.0's suffer from some common issues mostly related to poor castings, but are overall regarded as one of the most reliable engines of all time. They are one of my favorites, but I still sell these engines for a reason. This particular core is from a late WJ, I believe a 2004 Grand Cherokee. These late 4.0's are probably the least reliable. I have never seen this kind of damage on such a low stress, low compression engine. How does this happen?
Why am I doing this? I own and run a full service auto salvage business called Importapart, and part of our model is dismantling bad engines to salvage the good parts to resell. We do not rebuild engines, merely supply parts to those that do.
I really hope you enjoyed this teardown. As always I love all the comments, feedback and even the criticism. Catch you on the next one !
-Eric 
Авто/Мото
"Can't start in the back. That's how you get an infection." I laughed WAY too hard on that one!
What video is this referencing? I’m waaayy behind lol.
@@dbsranchr s*x
@@205rider8 oh shit…… I’m such a dumbass 🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@dbsranchr took me a minute... not gonna lie.
Yeah i had to stop, go back and replay ... it's a good thing this channel doesn't have many young viewers "Daddy why do you get an infection if you start in the back"
Fun fact. This engine was designed by engineers from all the big three makes. AMC came around and they stuck this in about everything. When AMC disbanded Chrysler kept using the engine. It has one of the longest production life spans of any engine.
It's based on the 258/ 4.2 l, you can use the crank and rods out of that to make a 4.5 l stroker in a 4.0l block
@@BeepBeepParkieMore Fun: the AMC 6 began life as a Nash motor in the late 1940’s. The 7 main bearing bottom end is what gave it legendary durability.
@@BeepBeepParkie, I did not know that. I wondered what the stroker was built out of. Thank you.
American Motors loved this engine!
Just did a 2004 XJ with a 4.0. It had two pistons that dropped their skirts. 279,000 miles. The customer replaced it with a reman. This is a common issue with the High Mileage 4.0s. What happens is as follows. It starts to overheat or run just a bit on the higher side of 220 degrees. The piston skirts crack or break off leading to it burning some oil. The oil soot covers the 02 sensor, and tricks it into thinks it is running rich. So the computer adds timing and lean out the fuel to get it within spec. Only to melt down the already damaged piston, and this is the end result.
So it killed itself essentially
So, technically speaking, the pre-Chrysler style injection might not have made something like this happen?
A coated O2 sensor will produce a lower than normal voltage which makes the vehicle think it's running lean, the computer will add fuel so the vehicle will be running rich, not lean.
Are you outside of the us? I thought the last model year of the Xj Cherokee in North America(except for Mexico) was 2001.
thats good to know..... when it got around 110F in NE montana this summer..... my 97 was running at about 217 (used OBD2 scanner)
which is just a needle over straight up and down
.
she hit 227 pulling up "kittleson hill" on my 100 mile daily commute
.
no noises, oil burning, or death yet..... but i was REALLY worried about it
turned off the AC, ran the heater.......knowing that number 6 was probably WAY over 227.....
.
i love my Heep..... its a POS.... but its got soul
Finally a 4.0 teardown! And my god I've never seen that damage to a 4.0 in my life. I daily a 1995 Jeep Cherokee with 254K on it and it runs pretty nicely.
we have perished already
When I was a teen my mom had an 1987 AMC jeep Cherokee with the 4.0 and it had over 300k on it the trans had been rebuilt but motor was unopened besides remain seal and valve covers along with intake and exhaust manifold being redone. Thing was reliable only issue we ever had with it was a upper radiator hose blowing while we're were on the road used a knife cut the bad section out put water in it till we got home and it was good.
behold, a god that bled
It had to be neglect. I sold my '92 XJ six years ago with 260k miles on the odometer and it still ran like a raped ape.
So, so much like a slant six. Wow
Good to see an uncomplicated old style basic engine that anyone could work on without a shop full of electronic gadgetry and specialist tools..
Not too unlike the old Chevy 232 inline 6. I never liked the timing gears on those, though.
Wish is was still like that.
Got a 2001 Cherokee with 263,000 miles original motor daily driver rig. Impressive to see what abuse these motors can take til they let go.
I've seen that kind of damage in 4.0L in-line 6 before. The 2 main reasons are 1) Prolonged high revving from trying to get unstuck in deep mud, or 2) very steep angles during rock crawling. I have owned many Jeep (Chrysler models) over the last 35+ years. Being involved with off-roading clubs has given me experience with the typical failures for people pushing their vehicles to the failure point.
I have a 2001 XJ and it has been rattling for eight years, so bad I tell people that it's a Cummins swap. I paid a mechanic to drop the oil pan and take a peek. He couldn't find any loose so he buttoned it up and said to just ignore the rattle and keep driving it. That was eight years ago.
Good chance that rattle is the exhaust manifold. When they crack (and they all crack), it'll rattle like a diesel.
Rocker arms
I owned a 97 Cherokee with the 4.0L. After 212k miles the engine still ran strong. Like you said, everything around the body was falling apart or broken, but the engine always started up.
I had a 1996. Great drivetrain but the rest of the Chrysler stuff will fall apart around it.
My brother had one of these in a jeep that had over 200k. It had a cracked radiator so he'd have to refill it. Sometimes he would drive longer than 30 minutes without coolant and the temp pegged on H and when he got home it would be bone dry. Drove like this for a few months. He had it for a year more and sold it to the neighbor who had it for years. Have to work hard to kill a 4.0
I had it in the Jeep Commanche and Cherokee. They had some getup and go in them
I've currently have 4 from 91-05 one of unknown year in my 90XJ it was replaced twice in the past warranty replacement first the second was due to bad replacement oil pump. Solid engines with simple upkeep on oil, coolant and plugs
It's insane what these 4 liters can take
Your brother is an a-hole. Driving a half hour with no coolant, wtf.
I bought a 1996 Grand Cherokee with 267,000 miles on it. It was my first Jeep. It had a slight tapping coming from Cylinder #6. Started using T4 10/40 in it and it quieted it substantially. Drove it till about 301,000 miles and then it developed a really loud chatter. Still drove it another 2,000 miles that way till I finally bought another vehicle. I got curious and dropped the oil pan. The piston skirt for cylinder #6 was laying in the pan. Engine still ran and had good compression. Just piston #6 was chattering around in the cylinder.
The other reason they were so popular was the ability to stroke them with a good set of 4.2 piston, rods and crank. That’s a good way to get power.
That’s what I was going to do to my 01 WJ but budget ran short and I couldn’t 😢. 4.2 crank and rods and have you a strong stroker engine.
Which Is why I can't find Remaned cranks for my actual 4.2. 😛🙄
I have an extra 4.2 crank the is already .010/.010. It needs polishing badly though.
The 4.0 "AMC" and Furrrrd's 4.9 300 straight 6 are both legendary in similar ways. I had a '81 Bronco with the 300 and a manual 3-speed ( with overdrive) that was one of my favorite trucks ever! 300,000 miles on that truck. Too many things went wrong too quickly on the Bronco so I sold it as a parts truck. The 4x4 still got me anywhere I needed to the very end. 🏁
I daily a 1984 F150 with a 300... very durable engine indeed. Rebuilt it back in 2020 due to bad rings/bores (lots of blowby); despite that, it was still running somewhat decently. The rebuild was its reward for getting me though a long trip I didn't expect to drive it on... well earned!
That Ford 4.9 is a great engine.
I've been hounding Eric to get his hands on a 300 for a teardown but they're so fucking reliable that cores never show up haha. I have an 85 and a 95 F150, both with that engine, both with manuals. Love 'em both.
@@TestECull We used to run F-150s with the I6 300. Mostly highway, with some local parts running. Manual transmissions. We never had to replace an engine, and some of them had well over 300,000 miles. They got three times the mileage of the oldest truck we had with a 460 under the hood. That 460 was bomb-proof, too.
@@dougrobinson8602 Best OHV engine Ford ever sold. Pulls like a 302 on a third less gas with a life expectancy measured in decades because odometers dont go high enough 🤣🤘
For a piston skirt failure, that one actually seems pretty tame. Usually the piston comes apart and the wrist pin hammers into the block until it either makes an inspection port or it seizes.
Yeah, that was VERY surprising the wrist pin didn't go sailing and lock the engine up.
"Makes an inspection port" lol that's a hilarious way to look at it.
No it doesn’t
@BB Sky it doesnt, which is exactly the problem. The piston around the wrist pin comes apart, and the rod starts hammering it into the sides of the bore until either the engine gets an inspection port, the rod lets go or the engine seizes.
@BB Sky, pins are pressed in by heating the rod. They can become worn over time and walk themselves out.
Can you imagine going in for a physical exam and your doctor making the same noises as Eric does when he examines this engine block?!?! (Hmmm....maybe it wouldn't be that funny after all. 😱)
I got flashbacks from a dentist visit watching that.
What your doc don’t?
🤣🤣🤣!!!
I can't imagine going to the proctologist and him making an ATM joke like he did.
I was just thinking of a surgeon musing to himself "Hmmmm-hmmmm. Looks good. That's good. Oh, *that's* not supposed to be there!"
Actually, considering the context (that 4.0 was very thoroughly deceased) probably an ME.
The cylinder head definitely feels like 89 lbs when you are leaning over the front of the jeep or the fender to remove it and even more when you are putting it back on
So glad to see the 4.0 inline 6. They are so hard to find as cores. One of the best engines ever made.
Would still love to see a GM 3800 series engine on the channel, or a 3.5L V6 from the 93-97 Intrepids/Concords
I second the 3.8. It's one of the most reliable engines ever built if taken care of. Incredible highway mileage as well.
@@dougrobinson8602 Yes, 3.8 or 231.
I’ve had both the 3800 is rock solid the mopar 3.5 at the time had a very weak bottom end and I ended up spinning a bearing
My family had both of those. The 3800 Vortec was BULLET. PROOF. The 3.5 was fine enough, but the transmission that rode behind it was garbage. Lost reverse out of it at 36k miles.
@@dougrobinson8602 the Achilles heel on the later 3800 engines was the plastic intake plenum, which was notorious for getting brittle and cracking, which would dump coolant into the engine. If you buy any car with one of those engines, make sure you replace that part right away.
Had a 99tj with about 90k on it break a skirt on the piston on cyl 6. Thought it was a rod knock at first. Pulled it and tore it down. Found the rod on cyl 4 visually bent as well. Never hydrolocked it. Figured I had it apart so go big or go home. Went .030" over, stroked it with a 4.2L crank, Comp Cams camshaft, bigger injectors amongst exhaust and others. I was very happy with the build!
I like the 4.0 because of it's AMC lineage. But those cracks in the head you saw are common on certain years, and that's Chrysler's fault, because they redesigned the head. After a couple of years, they saw the common failure pattern, and came out with yet another redesign that fixed the cracking problem.
The 258 cracked heads when overheated.
The most crack-prone heads are just from the start of the distributorless ignition until late 2000. The head casting with the improvement has the letters TUPY cast under the valve cover, but it’s still not quite as good as the 1999 head. IMO, 1999 is the single best year of the 4.0. It has all the strengthening and improvements to the crank and block that Chrysler made over the early kinda flexible AMC design (including the main cap spine),still has the tubular header, has the improved intake manifold, has the best ECM programming, but doesn’t have the issues that came with the head when it was redesigned for the coil rail mounting needed for DIS.
@@stevelacker358 +1 the '99 was the best year with thrust plate cam, horseshoe intake and OG distributor. 96-99 OBD2 is my favorite years.
Too bad these engineers should leave good enough alone
Best part about 97-99 is they don't have any of the advanced emissions Jeep used to try and eek out more lifetime.
Just the one O2 sensor, single bank of six exhaust (which will always crack), distributor, so so so easy to work one.
You can do the entire ignition (plugs, wires, cap, etc) for a third of the cost of coil packs.
A mechanic friend told me a story about one of his customers that had towed a Cherokee using a front axle type dolly for about 50 miles and then remembered that he had forgot to take the trans out of low gear and then found the engine wouldn't start. He pulled the head and ALL pistons were missing- just con rods and wrist pins were left...
Calling BS on that story. If it was an automatic, the engine wouldn't turn. If it was a manual, he'd been dragging the wheels.
@@spasticslug2932 Yeah, you’d ruin the transmission and that’s about it. The only possible way that story would hold water was if it was a straight shift left in 5th gear, and even then it’s not gonna do what he said it would, especially just after 50 miles.
BS… unless it had no serpentine belt on, if the crank was turning the water pump would be turning, if the engine got warm enough the thermostat would open and the radiator would cool the engine just the same as if it was running.
But more than likely it would just drag the rear wheels…
it happened, I know the mechanic that replaced the engine.
I've got a 1946 cj2a and it's still running the original 4cylinder GoDevil engine. Built to last!
There is a clear crack in the cylinder head, between #2 and #3 rocker arms. It can be seen just by removing the oil fill cap and looking in the valve cover. I was a jeep tech in the early 00s, this was very common on 98-03 cylinder heads. I replaced hundreds under warranty.
Had the same 4L in a jeep Wrangler in the shop this past year, thing had completely seized, and when we pulled the pan there was mud in it. When asked, the owner denied having driven it in water or anything. We sent it away for a complete revision along with boring it out into a 4.6L. It now makes 300 hp and 600 Nm of torque.😁 Was quite a fun project. Had to modify and rebuild the entire jeep as it wasnt roadworthy anymore. One hell of a project for me and another mechanic, but a lot of fun
After just tearing a toilet apart going spelunking for my headphones, I needed to see someone else tear something else down and get gross.
Spelunking is an underrated word. We as a society should use it more.
@@lilsmoot4488 I have never heard that word in my life and I am not sheltered grammar wise. Learn something new every day lol
@@ianriggs indeed
I think 🤔... I think 🤔 I'd just have bought a new pair and flushed them 😂
@@ianriggs isn't spelunking just another word for cave exploration
Yes, Finally!!! My favorite engine too. In fact, I'm dailying my 04 WJ at the moment because well, it's the only thing I own that doesn't ever break. From what I remember, somewhere around 2000-2002 were the problem years with cylinder heads cracking, at least for the WJ. By around 03 and definitely for all 04's have a different head (denoted by the "TUPY" stamping under the oil fill cap) that isn't prone to cracking. I'm 32 and I expect my 4.0 to outlive me!
Sold mine after 350,000 miles and it still ran great. It was the family adventure vehicle. Heavy loads and back country roads were no problem for our 1995 sport. It did have a cracked exhaust and after my son used it two of the engine mount studs were cracked. I welded the engine mount back to the studs and it was good to go.
Your videos keep getting better and better! I love watching you channel, its relaxing and entertaining. Always looking forward to seeing your new tear-downs and project updates. Your commentary is my favorite part lol. Merry Christmas man!
I really appreciate how you speed through repeated bolt removal once the initial fastener is dealt with like on heads and rockers. Very enjoyable and informative stuff!
one spark plug that's all you really need is one cylinder to fire for the engine to run🤣
Thank you! Another one off the list!
This engine is, of course, one of the most durable and torquiest motors available from the late seventies through the early aughts. The inherent primary and secondary balance of the straight six aside, just the combination of torque, ease of maintenance, and simplicity all made it the absolute pinnacle of the Wrangler powerhouse. This engine is still the best 6 cylinder that has ever been in a Chrysler product (slant six aside), and I have a couple customers that have their Grand Cherokees and wranglers up past 300K. Having to drop the 242 and the 318 from their lineup has left FCA continuing to fight for a 6 or 8 cylinder gas engine of any sort of quality, a fight that to this day has not been won. Yes, I know what I said. The Gen 3 hemi is barely worth its weight as a boat anchor.
Of course you're not going to have a problem with the dipstick tube - it's not on a GM product.
Engine Requests:
Ford: 300 Inline Six, Windsor, FE, 1.0 EcoBoost, 1.4 EcoBoost, 5.2 Voodoo, 6.7 PowerStroke
General Motors: 3100/3400/3800 Olds, LUW/LWE 1.8l i4, L5P Duramax
Chrysler: Slant Six, MORE HEMIS, 1.4L FIRE, 3.3/3.8, 318/360
Honda: B Series, D Series, K Series
Toyota: 1GZ-FE, 1ZZ or 2ZZ
Subaru: FJ series, EZ30/36
Other: DT466
Old School Unicorns: GM 702 Twin-Six, Oldsmobile 5.7 Diesel, LT5 Lotus (C4 ZR1)
Modern Unicorns: Toyota 1LR-GUE, Chevrolet Gemini, 7.3 Godzilla
Well now we know.
@@chuckz8053 And knowing is half the battle. The other half? Extreme violence.
He has an EZ36 on the shelf/rack to his left our right when he shows the other 4.0 on the ground. I know it's a 36 because the intake runners are huge. I doubt he will take it apart but it'd be nice. Those EZ are not easy to disassemble. Even worse to get together.
Honda F20/22. I wanna see how those 9000 rpm motors tick. :)
And Olds 5.7 diesel would be cool to see, but they're rare. An LT5 is rarer yet. That was the best DOHC GM ever built and how they got the Northstar from it is beyond me.
Don't trash that block! It may be suitable for an overbore as long as there are no cracks in it. Someone might be interested in buying it for a stoker build.
Love my 95' 4.0! It's just broken in at 205k miles. I replaced the water pump and thermostat on my own. Pretty easy to work on
13 years as a flat-rate mechanic, owned 7 XJs (have one with nearly 300k miles), and I have NEVER seen this level of damage to a 4.0l.
I'm a retired mechanic of over 30yrs. and current 4.0L owner and I've replaced over a dozen exploded 4.0L in my career. Leave them stock and drive them gently or they Will break. That's the advise I've learned to give.
@@RANDOMNATION907, huh, driven the hell out of my current XJ with a 4.0l, and it's at 280k miles without a single issue. Where the 4.0l runs into issues are the late 1996-2006 (2001 for the XJ). These engines have some know issues with severe overheating from a flawed head design and piston skirt failures causing engine failure.
Seems to be that the early 4.0s are stronger then the later ones idk why or how , own and owned alot seem damage at later model ones
@@JohnGarcia-ii8lb, 1997-2004 (last year of the 4.0l) is known to have weaker piston skirts... even then, I haven't seen one experience this level of destruction.
@@johndeeregreen4592how good are the 2.5?
Had a 95 GC with the 4.0 with 325k when I sold it. Only problem I ever had with was the water pumps shreading every 20-30k miles. I got very good at that routine maintenace.
My son bought a 2004 Grand Cherokee with the 4.0 and drove the hang out of it. I got it and drove the hang out of it then gave it back to my son, and he drove the hang out of it then gave it to his father-in-law, and now he's driving the hang out of it. The computer is starting to go away, but the engine's been solid.
Those are known for pcm rot.
There was a little known issue with water pumps. The inline sixes had 2 water pumps. V grove turned one way. Serpentine turned opposite. They could easily be switched and the coolant would not circulate properly causing meltdown of the center two pistons.
love the Jeep 4.0 and the Ford 300 6 cylinder engines
Eric, Merry Christmas to you and your family. Thanks for taking us along with you this past year. I’ve enjoyed your videos, your humor and presentation style!
Greatest engine AMC produced (RIP) and one of the greatest engines of all time.
UK mechanic here, I absolutely love the channel, I'm addicted. You do a lot of complicated big blocks I would love if you could do some small European engines like some small inline 4 cylinders as that's mainly what we drive over here and their an absolute breeze to teardown and rebuild 😊
I'm convinced that inline engines are better than V4 or V6s. Just my opinion.
Since that engine development was started in 1956 by Nash, then it was made by Hudson, then made by Rambler, then made AMC, then made by Chrysler for Jeep…
After 50+ years, they better have figured out how to make it work right!
The 4.0 actually was based on the 232 first put in 1965 model year AMC’s, and shares nothing with the earlier 6 cylinder engine.
@@nuttfarmgarage6434 Just to pick a nit, according to Wiki the new 232 was introduced in May of 1964.
@@JeffDeWitt What part of 1965 model year do you not understand?
@@nuttfarmgarage6434 the early engine was changed repeatedly to make improvements. Just 'cause new parts don't fit old junk doesn't mean the whole thing is different. One step leads to the next, and you can't get to the top without climbing the steps.
@@brandonupchurch7628 Last I looked 1964 was before 1965. The 232 was introduced in the special edition 1964 Rambler Typhoon. The article in Wiki even has a picture of the car and the license plate says "1964".
Since the cylinder head cracks line up with the most damaged pistons, I'll guess coolant was getting into those cylinders causing detonation, which leads to the torched pistons. I'm impressed the pistons didn't come apart with how loose they were on the wrist pins!
l would agree with your thoughts on the damage cause
Thats the beauty of momentum. It broke just right.
Bet the engine still ran too
Good save with that drain pan!
My favorite part of your videos is where you analyze a part… say “It’s pretty good. We can use it as a spare or back up.” Then , toss it into the junk pile. I don’t know if I’m the none who gets your sense of humor, but I love it!!😂😂 Love your videos!
That was some impressive damage! Great video as usual. There’s a couple 4.0’s in my driveway.
Those Valvoline oil filters don't have a bypass valve, seen them plug up and cause codes or destroy engines several times
How good you show everything and speed up the simple things, learn very much, thank you so much!!
When you rotated the engine and all of the tappets fell out it brought back fond memories of my 83 CJ7 and it’s lifter problems. Still runs great today.
That version of the 4.0L was used in the 2000-2006 jeep wrangler, and the 1999-2004 grand cherokee, I can tell by looking at the water pump and the accessory drive
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year! Thanks for all the humor and jokes throughout all these tear downs and projects! You are like an auto coroner on the channel, but you also save a lot of cars from the salvage yards. You should be called the car doctor for all the autopsies and projects. Keep up the great work!
this just goes to show you can even destroy a spicy 4.0 engine if you try hard enough🤣
You did an excellent job showing the damage; very well done video!
Nice one Eric, your tear down videos are always worth following. HAPPY XMAS to you and your tribe. 🎉🎊🎉✌
Please find a blown up 3800 series pre 2004. I want to see how someone can kill a very reliable engine
I 2nd that and I'm curious too.
.....supercharged!
Yes finally. I’ve been wanting to see one of these bad boys for a while
The later 4.0L engine built between 1999 and about 2002 used a head casting #0331 and was prone to cracking between the 3rd and 4th cylinder due to the exhaust port redesign to meet emissions. This same head casting #0331 was redesigned and they added a TUPY casting mark on the surface of the head just under the oil fill cap. The head with the TUPY marking was corrected to prevent this cracking. The #7120 casting between about 1996 and 1999 I believe is the best for performance as it was less restricted before the emissions redesign.
Hey Eric, I really enjoy your channel. I love taking things apart and really bad at putting them back together. Thank you.
I was waiting for a jump scare looking in those manifold openings
I've repaired quite a few of those with piston skirt failure. Overheating doesn't help things either. They start making a thunking noise like tapping on a tin can at idle when they start failing. Those can be repaired with a set of pistons and rings. I always opted to do the timing chain and bearings. They literally run for ever if you catch it early. The last one I did was a 2001. Thanks!
Got a 97 with an old trw 5.0l stroker kit and a hesco aluminum head. Threw on an m90 blower and a pacesetter header blowing through a dual 2 3/4 exhaust. Sounds awesome and just will not die!
As always, educational and fun!
Thank you!!!
My brother had a box style Cherokee, with the high output, I think they called it, it had over 300,000 and ran like new! You couldn't kill it, he traded it in on a new car.
I look forward to Saturday evening so I can see what you're going to tear down! Thank you from an armchair mechanic!
Hey, you answered my question about where the milage was stored on the Corvette. You are amazing!! I love to learn and you are great at educating.
Finally! I'm glad you finally made a video on this engine. The 4.0L is the only good thing about my jeep and it still isn't perfect. I just read the description and my uncle has a 2004 WJ grand cherokee with over 350k miles it takes literally a minute of cranking but it still starts and runs
That block would be good for a over bore and then a stroker setup.
Waste of time
I SAW A CRACK on the deck of the block
All that for max 200hp
@@alexstromberg7696 add boost!
@@alexstromberg7696 Ummm no. It makes about 200hp stock and stokers can make 300+ hp.
Why do some people always feel the need to comment on things they know literally nothing about?
Man as much as I watch these.. I always laugh when you throw away the "good" water pumps.
In this case, they're $34 at NAPA. No point in keeping it no matter how good it looks.
EBAY!
I learned how to replace a distributor on one of these engines. Best time of my life.
Great tear down, Merry Christmas!
The exhaust manifold isn't difficult unless you own a Cherokee lmao 🤣 that was probably the most time consuming repair i've had to do to mine lol
Man that 4.0 was ridden hard and put away wet by the previous owner.
I have a 2006 Golden Eagle 4.0, C.J. auto trans, a/c just turned 60,000 miles, still runs like new. I'm a service nut and stay up on servicing it. Changed the water pump and thermostat and hoses at 50,000 mi just because of age...Love that Jeep!
👍 thanks for making me feel better about my 4.0 with 319k miles on it! It's had a oil leak on the last 2 cylinders coming out the head gasket for about 60k miles. It's always been on my "I'll get around to it..." list.
That dipstick removal really makes this engine a contender for the GOAT
Classic case of an over heating engine and the driver just saying "F' it, going for broke and going run this heap till it seizes!"
I bet that baby sounded quite delightful running down the road with pistons screaming going into Chernobyl meltdown mode and I bet good money it smelled truly delicious, truly a worthy honorable mention meltdown. Thanks for sharing, glad I found your channel.
Yup! It was probably a great running engine until they cooked it.
Just did a full rebuild on my 2004 WJ 4.0 after It broke a piston skirt. I bought It last July as a winter vehicle and It had a rattle and I couldn't get It to go away. Everyone said It was completely normal for a 4.0 to rattle. I tried everything on the internet to get rid of the rattle, tried using a oil filter that held more oil and still nothing. Noise was always the same but would go away when fully warmed up. But come back on a cold start. It got me through a whole winter of beating on It and was using It as a a backup one summer day and was ok the highway and the rattle turned Into a knock. Drove straight home and parked It. Thought a lifter had gave up and tried thicker oil and even Lucas oil and nothing made the noise get quieter. That's when I knew It was an Internal problem. Started tearing It apart and found cylinder 4 with a broken piston skirt. Did a full rebuild and now you can't even hear that It's running. It's been back together about 5 months and I've made It my daily even before winter started and I do not baby this engine except on maintenance. I did all the piston upgrades, moly pistons, moly rings all new bearings. Hardest part of the whole job was getting the intake and exhaust manifolds off while It was still In the Jeep. When putting It back together, I Installed the manifolds onto the head before I put It back In the Jeep. So much easier, but extremely heavy and would recommend a 2nd person to help lift onto engine.
thanks you for doing this awesome tear down. im a xj guy and love these engines.
You magnificent madman, you finally got one for us! I've owned many Jeeps with the 4.0, XJs and ZJs both, so this is going to be fun. Besides piston skirts and the TUPY heads, these were solid. Although the cooling system was rather inadequate in the XJ, application. You have to ON TOP of cooling system maintenance on those. ZJs were a clean sheet design, so the 4.0 was integrated correctly in those from the get go.
What causes the Piston skirts to break on these?
I've seen it a lot but I've never been able to understand what really causes it 🤔🤔
My 02 wj never gets hot, has 220k on it and I drive it up north n back 400 miles both ways in extreme heat and stop and go interstate congestion. Never runs hot, always on top of oil changes I do myself with pennzoil and Fram filters everyone hates for some reason. I've ran Fram my whole life never had an issue, I also use Lucas oil treatment.
I've found on my XJ, that you just replace the entire cooling system every 4-5 years.
There's two Achilles Heels:
1) the viscous fan clutch wears out
2) the radiator fills up with sediment.
As long as you shotgun the whole thing, and give it a good flush, it's really no problem.
@@lustfulvengance I don't have a specific answer, but most people agree it's a materials/design issue (dimensions of the skirt). It also affected the 4.2 inline 6, the 4.0s predecessor. My understanding is that it officially only affected about 6% of all units, although reality could be different. When you consider literally millions of these were produced, 6% or more is a decent figure.
@@litz13 I think the sediment thing is due to mixing coolant. I've had it in my XJ, but since the last time I replaced the radiator and gave the whole system a good flushing I've stuck with plain, old fashioned green coolant and stayed away from the universal stuff. My 4.0 runs nice and cool, even in the summer with the AC on.
Wouldn't mind seeing what the burned Vette engine looked like up close. Even if you don't wind up tearing it down.
Wow. Amazing detail. Great job. I am now subscribed.
One time I pulled apart a 4.0 from like a '92 Comanche and it had been run at least 60 miles distance with pieces of a broken valve riding bouncing around inside a cylinder. Top of the piston all scarred up and walls not perfect. I ground the top of the piston with a dremel tool, threw on the rebuilt cyl head, and it ran perfect for over 10K miles until I sold her.
First 2 causes that jump to the top of the list:
1. Hydrolocking
2. Overheating
Clearly it was over heated. Bad 🔥
I am doing a 4.0L rebuild now and the block was in worse shape. That block you have is the perfect candidate for a stroker build, if a .060 Overbore is possible. Mine had lips on all six cylinders where the rings had really dug into wall, like I caught my thumbnail on the lip. That's likely why your pistons 3 and 4 refused to come out, they were catching on a lip. Part of the reason why Cylinders 3 and 4 on the I6 (of any Generation, even on the Rambler) fail is because their exhaust ports are right next to each other and they build up a ton of heat in that region. All AMC style I6 heads can fail here, just on the new head from 2001 on, Chrysler was counting beans.
My core was only $100...then I spent $600 at the machine shop getting the cylinders bored and block fluxed.
The dipstick! It's a Christmas miracle!
Great catch on the pan!
Hey Eric, love the video, would you ever do a Big Block Molar teardown? Would love to see a 440 or an old AMC 360.
You might need a dentist for that tear down.
Eric did a Chevy 454 teardown a few months back
A 4.0? Tough motors!
Another excellent video, good job! Have you considered doing a series on putting some back together?
Your fast forward sounds are very satisfying. Specially when your tq somthing down and you Hear the clicks. 😮
Which is more ... bulletproof, in your opinion. 4.0 L Jeep or 225 CI Slant Six ? Have you torn one of these down. I had one (moons ago) which continuously had 'grey' oil and a leakiny rear main (fill the oil, check the gas). TBH, the oil leak kept the body of the D-150 (A833) frame from rusting. The carbon (1bbl) kept the exhaust from rusting.
My friend had a slat six in his old Dodge dart Swinger. We actually tried to kill it with a brick on the accelerator pedal. It revved up and would not quit. Valve float kept it from revving too high, and we finished off a six pack waiting. Never died.
I vote for slant 6
5:39 It looks like it wouldn't be overly difficult to bolt a carb onto that intake manifold....
ITB EFI?
I 100% agree with the early exhaust manifolds. I would be replacing at least one a week at the Midas shop I worked at. The replacement ones had a small flex section on the number 1 and 6 pipe to prevent a recurrence.
Great catch with the oil catch pan. Love your videos, and commentary LOL
These engine teardown videos are awesome! As a European, I would like to see more inline 4 engines! 😁
i have a WJ with the 4.7, honestly kinda happy i dont have the 4.0
yes, its not as bullet proof but its been great. ive even been on lakebeds that have hit 118, and stopped on. freeway when its 124. no heating issues or anyrhing. and its been great. tows good too
Somebody sponsor this mans supply of brake clean!
Love the teardowns keep it up.
Love your tear downs ! Great shows
Ah yes, the simplicity of rocket surgery 🤣
And brain science 😂
I guarantee that engine was still running, howbeit I bet it ran pretty poorly. Buddy of mine blew the 4.0 in his 90s Grand Cherokee. It blew a hole in the block and he drove it at least a couple miles like that. Even now, it still runs 😆
Had 93 grand Cherokee. Motor was bout shot, so I bought a White Brothers 4.6L kit for it, that thing was a beast! That motor your dismantling is roasted, mistreated bad.. great vid man. Commentary is priceless!!!! Great vids Eric!!
As always, excellent video with witty commentary. Thanks.