I install these things for a living. There is one key thing that no installer mention on how to use the machine. Don’t turn them off at night. The amount of power used to maintain a homes temperature is small. The amount of power used to crank it on in the morning to reheat the home is huge. Think of an oven.
I'm having a problem with my Hyper Heat. It makes a whooshing sound from the indoor wall unit every 15-20 minutes, which I assume is the defrost cycle, which is way too frequent. Problem is it even does it when it's 38 outside, so not sure what it's defrosting. I already had the installer come and take out all the coolant and put the right amount in after measuring all the line lengths. He's saying it's 100% right. Could the whooshing be something else entirely. Other problem is after I switch to Hyper Heat, the kWhs basically doubled compared to last year when I was running the regular Mitsubishi. There's gotta be some problem with the new unit, right?
@@tinytownsoftware3837 38 degrees and high-ish humidity is going to be when you are going to need more defrost cycles. The system is working fairly hard at that point, and the air can be pretty wet, so, even though the air temperature is 38 degrees, the coils are much, much colder. Remember, they are moving heat from the outside air to the inside of your house. In so doing, the cool from inside your house is being moved and concentrated onto coils that are what, a couple dozen square feet? 10's of thousands of cubic feet of air volume are being heated by moving their temperature to the extremely small, by comparison, coil.
@tinytownsoftware3837 if you haven't gotten it fixed already, it is more than likely needing a firmware update. This is a well known issue. Google it.
*Love this unit! Using upstairs in my sons bedroom **Fastly.Cool** and he’s finally able to be comfortable upstairs without me freezing downstairs. Works for more sqft than expected!*
Someone has already mentioned this in a previous comment, but it's worth repeating. If you have your heat set at 73, that's your problem. I use 1-18K mini split for cooling, and a 98% modulating gas furnace to heat a 2000 SF R20/R40 insulated 3 story home in climate zone 5. Winter gas bill is around $70 per month if I keep the heat set at 71. Wasn't feeling well last January and set the temp to 73 for a good portion of the month and my bill went to $160. That extra 2 degrees is a killer. Believe it or not.
Yeah, but 71 kinda sucks when you are old. The other problem is mitsu thermostats suck. If I set it to 71 I wake up to 68. No matter what I set it to it butchers it. A quick web search finds tons of folks with similar mitsubishi complaints. It either doesn't heat to that temp or cooks you but never consistently keeps a temperature.
Why would 2 degrees make any difference? Heat loss in your house is all about temperature difference. If it’s 20 outside then setting your thermostat to 71 vs 73 vs 78 makes the difference 51, 53, and 58. Even in the worst case this should only be a 13% increase in heating load. With heat pumps / mini splits there are some efficiency losses as you increase indoor temperature, but not 2x. With a gas furnace, there’s non of that. Just as efficient at 100 as at absolute zero. Where this difference WILL matter is in an apartment. If your neighbor sets his unit at 71, and you set yours at 68, your unit may never even turn on. He’s heating your unit though the in insulated wall. However if you set yours at 73, your unit may be on all the time while you heat his unit for him.
I have a hyper heat unit in my apartment and my January bill was high too. Evidently you’re supposed to “set and forget” with these and let the absence detection feature lower the room temp by a few degrees when no one’s around. Otherwise it has to ramp back up from a lower setback which kills the efficiency. Being used to a gas furnace, I was turning my thermostat down aggressively when I left, only to have the compressor crank up to a high speed when I returned a few hours later. Going forward I’m going to let it coast, which is when it’s most efficient. I’ll only turn it down/off when I leave for more than 12 hours.
I never took the “set it and forget it” into account. I too turn on and off and set the temp up and down on a daily basis, maybe that’s the reason my bill is so high! Thanks for the comments!!!
This whole video and all of the conversations would fit in really good at the Green Building Advisor forums. They are already talking about all of these things, and several installers chime in so it is a high quality conversation in general.
It’s not supposed to be turning on and off much, they are meant to be running practically 24/7 to reduce power consumption. They use more power on start up then when they are just trying to hover around the set point.
Sorry- I watched the 8:00 video and have no idea what you are trying to convey. I installed 3 mini split exterior units and 12 indoor units so I have fairly good idea of how they behave. I have a sense meter for service disconnect and emporia for the branches. Maybe that would help you. But please make a video short and to the point.
As a owner of two units with 4 head units each. He is probably turning off the heat and ramping it way up. This is not a cost savings as you'd think. Heart pumps work better when you keep a set temperature throughout the day
Another thing worth checking could be that it’s low on refrigerant/freon. If the pipe length has exceeded the pre charge length it may be short (low heat pressure). Works checking the super heat etc.
Those Mitsubishi units will 100% heat down to -5 degrees F with no problems. You don't need hyper heat enabled until it gets that cold. I'd look into better insulation for your house. These units automatically adjust their output based on the conditions in your home. More insulation will hold heat better and your compressor can slow down more.
Hyper Heat isn't a feature you can turn on and off - it's the marketing name for their low-temperature line of air source heat pumps. If you have a Hyper Heat outdoor unit, it will work in any temperature, essentially. There's nothing the user has to do any different. If it's set to Heat, it'll work. (Down to something like -17F...)
When sleeping, I use one thick down comforter, and I am toasty warm even if it is freezing cold (around 32F or 0C). You might also enjoy an electric blanket.
We converted from all electric baseboard in Dec to 3 Mitsubishi Split Deluxe Wall Units for our 800 SQ rental. 2 Small, I believe 6,000 btu in the bedroom and a larger in the living room. However, our electric bill has gone up for the 3 months since with KW per day usuage increasing. The temp between the previous year was roughly the same for 2 months and for the other month it was much warmer this year at an average oe 42 vs 32 last year. We have also been away from the home for the last 2 months with temp set at 65. Somewhat concerned since we are renters that something is wrong as prior to leaving twice using a Keuring our circuits popped which never happened previously and the unit beneath us who also converted over has had their electric bills go down.
I’m no expert when it comes troubleshooting, but nearly the entire country is paying much higher energy prices, most likely reason why your bill is much higher. My electricity provide increased rates by 119 percent here in NH, so check that first and if that’s not the reason than I’d check with the installer, he may come by for free since he installed it.
Now, I don't know much about Hyper units for I have just begun my investigation. (building my last home, 720 sq feet, one story, and I am looking for a heating source). What I do know is a bit about insulation.. Here are some questions that need addressing before any comments can be made.. How many sq feet is your home? What is the footprint or foundation perimeter in linear feet? What style house is it, ie. cape, colonial, ranch etc? I think the most important question to ask and for you to address is what is the amount or depth in inches is the ceiling insulation in the upper most level. Houses built in the early 70's required an R19 between the ceiling rafters (6 inches deep). Today an R49 is code in zone 5 (I believe). Not only is R19 well below todays standards, the rafters are exposed to the element and are acting as a thermal bridge or a highway so-to-speak bringing not only winters cold air into the conditioned space but summers hot air. If you have a drop stairway leading to the attic make sure it is insulated properly. Take a trip into your attic and see what you have. A quick look will reveal if any insulation has been added. If you can see rafter tops, you need more. If you need more lay it down perpendicular to the rafters and you will eliminate the thermal bridging. It's imperative (if you have one of these) to build or purchase an attic pull down stair insulator box. OH! The last thing is- I've recently had Eversource, CT, through subcontractors insulate two of my homes; one was $3,400 and the other was $8,700. Both fully reimbursed by Eversource. Last but not least, if I may, please turn down the background music just a bit. Be well, Pete
Great advice about the attic insulation. Mine is barely covering the rafters and is the main reason why my electric bill is so high. This video is a couple years old and I have learned alot. My house is 2000 square feet and the footprint is 25 by 40 feet by the way and it's a gambrel style. Did you have to be on government assistance or have a certain income cap in order to qualify for eversource to reimburse you for the insulation? Thanks!
@@J-Mart WoW! Great news! Now you have a remedy to drastically curb your energy bill! FYI - I even had them insulate the basement ceiling in one of my houses; you should too. If this program is still in place make sure your insulation contractor is very specific on his descriptions of what he's doing and where he is applying it. And you must use his exact verbiage when filing for reimbursement. - - I cannot seem to find the exact organization that I reach out too to get the ball rolling. But here is the info to our contact person Eversource contacted who was responsible in getting the energy audit going. Give her a call and she may be able to direct you. Tell her Pete Crowley and Anne Marie sent you! LOL. Be well my friend. Do not hesitate to reach out to me again. Hey, let me know how you make out on both the project itself and your future heating/ac bills. Here is her info: Michelle Long Principal 203 919 1445 203 648 0607
What is the cost per kw , sounds like you need to do the self power consumption test on you home. The 2 things I tell my customers 1) Is never run your heating below 68, mini-splits run on sensors and not timers for defrost. If the temp is below 68 indoors there not enough heat to get a good defrost for the outdoor unit. A timed defrost can be 1 cycle per hr . A sensor defrost can be 3-4 per hr. 2) mini-splits are not designed to be the only source of heating . It's best to set your mini-splits at 70 and your back up heat at 65.
Thanks, sounds like sound advice. Our kilowatt hour price is around .24 but it’s not very consistent, sometimes it’s half that price depending on who’s president it seems like.
I think I read somewhere in here that you are turning the temp up & down a lot. That may be your problem! I have a different heat pump but if I would do that here is what happens. If you turn it down say at night. Then turn it back up 4 or 5 deg. mine would go into back up axullery heat mode and kick in electrical heat strips (just like a regular electric heater, making your meter spin faster than you can see!!!) until it catches up to the set temp. You are better off setting it at 70 or whatever and leaving it or just increasing it by 1 degree incraments untill you get it where you want it. That way you are only using the heat pump not the electric back up strips, If you have a meter that spins look at it when you do it both ways. hope this helps
it's always easier for an HVAC system to maintain a temp rather then have to climb from a lower one (in the case of heat) or cool an area from hot. Best advice set it to a comfortable temp, say.. 72, and let it stay there all year round.
Was wondering if you have an update after implementing some of these tips in the comments. I'm looking to put it a hyper heat unit and am trying to get an idea of what to expect for cost to run.
I am also thinking to install a mini split heat pump separate from my current heat system, which is oil. But I’m little worried of electric bill. I don’t want to pay $13000 for mini split and then get huge bills.
@@J-Mart who installed your system? I'm in MA. Also had you considered some form of a hybrid system that uses oil/gas and the mini splits? I'm currently also debating over an air handler + mini split or all mini splits
Northern climate, they are actually coming by Monday to move a drip line since we are doing a small addition on the house. Drew Dion is the owner, very friendly and very competitive prices, the lowest by a long shot actually and they are a diamond dealer. Tell him I sent you👍
Cool shirt but the music isn't. We've got this Mitsubishi setup, it keeps us warm, keeps us cool, and does a superior job at both. Dehumidify mode is master class out of all heat pump/ductless systems we've ever had. Keep in mind it's about "maintaining temperatures with a small hi/low setpoint", turning stuff off then turning it on is how it becomes $$$. That goes for practically any home heating and cooling solution.
Ya in New Hampsha dude- rates in New England are bouts, and unfortunately solar not an option…this is why new builds in New England emphasize passive huge insulation
That makes a lot of sense but not sure it would make a huge difference, also the advantages in the winter may be the opposite in the summer and even out, who know but something to consider, thanks!
I am looking at retiring in a few years. Looking at NH. Thanks for sharing the utility bill. I am a believer in mini-splits. Had a Daikin in Hawaii. Hawaii was around .30 cents per KWh. But we had sun and solar. So a non solar month was over $600. With solar I was under $200. NH is about .21 cents per KWh but not the same sunny days. Heat pumps may be the most efficient way but still cost more due to the type of fuel and the cost to provide that fuel.
Yeah I agree, no really cheap way out for energy costs. Hope you make it to NH, it's one of the top free states in the nation if you love liberty and freedom!
Thanks for this Mitsubishi series videos. The other side of the equation is: did your heating oil consumption go down? We just had our system installed and what we expect is to have a higher electric bill but lower oil bill. Since the Mit system is known to heat efficiently at certain temperatures, it will be the main heating source for us and the heating oil is back-up.
Yeah you are 100% correct, your oil consumption will drop but your electric will go up, how much you will save depends on the cost of electricity where you live. Thanks!
We just had our Mitsubishi installed. Looking at your bill that’s pretty good. Because we spend about $100 a month during summer. With out the heating. So if we spend $150 dollars a month for the heating. That’s is still low compared to our oil. We spend about $1600 minimum during winter on 70 degrees F. $150 x 8 months that’s 1200 for electricity. 8 months is already long.
@@J-Mart Also, I believe your sons PC pull probably 160watts or less at peak usage. Unless he has "over clocked" it and change the power settings. You can buy a Kilowatt meter on Amazon for like $30 to double check.
Have you checked the wattage consumption while in heat mode? Mini splits SUPPLEMENT heat with electricity to heat up if it needs to, check to see if there is a heating element in your unit, that might be your answer, in heat mode they are not that efficient. Computers don't consume that much even with high end graphics, I have custom made gaming rigs and they average 200-400 watts at peaks, just make sure you have proper cooling to keep the fans from speeding up and keeping the CPU and GPU cooler. The label (yellow) one should tell you the rating for heat mode and is usually lower than your cooling rating. I don't use mini splits for heating even though they got them. I checked the amperage/wattage in heat mode on one of my 1 ton units and it can creep up to 800 to1K watts in heat mode, not sure if your units use heating elements (as needed) but mine do. I use the main furnace for heat because is natural gas and is cheaper, not that cheap but cheaper and more effective because it does the entire house. Natural gas is going up too so I'll be adding more panels to my PV system so I can run more electric gadgets such as the heating on the inverter units and lower dependency on gas and hopefully lower my gas bill, my electric bill averages 7-30 dollars a month due to having a PV system. Hope that helps.
I stopped using them for heat also once the temps dip around 40 or below. I have not checked the wattage consumption, I don’t have the tools to do so. Thanks!
Nope sir, a mini split is basically a heat pump. It doesn't heat like a resistor but simply 'pumps' the outside calories. Even at freezing temperature, my hyperheating unit still has a cop of 3.5. Yes the performance decreases with cold but it's awesome as a main heating device if you don't live in Siberia..
Fossil fuel heat is cheap, natural gas, oil, or propane. If your electricity cost is high you may not be able to save money, though it is always nice to have a backup system.
That's your electricity bill only. What was your oil bill? Final Question. What was your total oil electric bill for Feb 2019 and 2020? Was it less or more.
240 last month in Eastern WA. 25 degree most of the month. Heating a 2400 sq ft house with a Mitsubishi Mini Split. Kept the house at 68 all month. My bill also includes water and sewer. I average 180 a month for am entire year.
Hi, my husband and I got Mit. mini splits installed last year. Our bill skyrocketed to $400 - $500/mo on low setting. May I ask what you pay now (2024)?
Prices in New England are ridiculous anyways. My husband lived in Litchfield, NH and I grew up in Lowell MA, but when we wanted to buy a home we couldn't justify the taxes on the houses up there so we moved South. My taxes are just under 800 a year for a small 3 bed 2 bath while my in-laws pay 10,000 a year on their 4 bed 3 bath home. My electric bill which is heating and cooling has never been over 150 even in the 100+ degree summers and the water bill has always been under 100 a month. Income is a bit less here, but it still does not justify the tax rate and cost of living up there.
@@J-Mart Born in Claremont NH grewup in Lexington, Ma prices and taxes just crazy made it to Hawaii been here for 30 years again prices are crazy bought a Place in Alabama for retirement next year. 6 bed room house 2 each 1-bedroom cottages on 3 acres of land taxes $550.00 a year yea that's on month electric bill here.
Sorry... From the UK here. These taxes you speak of... Are these something you have to pay every year simply because you own the house? We have "council tax" here which for me is around £1500 per year which covers drinking water, garbage collection, sewerage and all other local authority supplied services. This 10k tax you mention, what do you get for your 10k? Thanks
Jim Lahey. It’s the property tax, and it is based on the value of your house and land. This pays for the police, roads, fire department, local government, schools and library’s, sewer, and trash. Doesn’t include water, electricity, medical insurance or dental or any other form of government help. Great question!
Hello from Ukraine. Not mini split but multi split. Because of multi zone capabilities and multiple connections. Each channel goes to separate room. I got the same looking Mitsubishi Electric 4 zone device but it has different name. Thank you for this video and have a nice day!
I do hvac and it stupifys me how people have such limited understanding of electricity. When I moved here in this location in 93 I only paid about 45 to 50 dollars a month. Its up over $200 a month now. I have only one light on at a time, keep my house at 58-62f , who’s stealing my power? NOBODY!.....The cost of energy has dramatically gone up in NH... Ignore the cost, compare the KW hrs. I installed several Hyper-heats in my daughters house , its very comfortable in the unit rooms that are on and she doesn’t have to buy oil as often anymore, My brother had an electric car and boasted how of his MPG on his hybrid... till he got his electric bill!.... There is no free lunch.
I hear ya, this was filmed two years ago and people are going to have to choose between food and fuel this winter with the price of all energy thru the roof!
@@J-Mart Yeah, here in MA National Grid raised their electric supply rates from 14.821 cents / kWh (11/01/21 - 4/30/22) to 33.891 cents / kWh (11/01/22 ‐ 4/30/23). This is absolutely ridiculous. You add in delivery and the other fees and you're almost at 50 cents / kWh. Anyways, the town I live in is part of the Mass Power Choice program which is an electricity aggregation program where the town gets bids for three year contracts through third party electric providers. 2020 was the last time the contract was renewed. So my supply rate is locked in at around 9 cents / kWh until the end of next year. I have electric resistance baseboards so these minisplits are amazing. I just had my third one installed. I got three separate units installed instead of one giant one doing three zones because the individual units can throttle down lower and I like the redundancy in case one unit dies or needs maintenance. I won't lose the entire house. In the past I have stupidly lowered the thermostat too low while I am sleeping so in the morning the units would need to go full blast to bring the temperature to what I set it at. I am going to try a "set it and forget it" approach this winter. I'll lower them no more than 2-3 degrees. Thanks for posting the video.
Yeah… i have 8 Mitsubishi mini splits at home, I live in MA, i let the mini splits coast as was told, and even with a supplier that is charging me less than national grid (.18/kwh) we ended up with a bill of $816 …
@JP How large is the home and how well is the insulation in the house. We are in Massachusetts and looking at these systems. I was told it will be lesser than oil and gas.
@@Michaeljallen1978 my home is 2085 sqft, 2 floors, 4 of them upstairs and 4 of them downstairs, each floor connected to its own outside condenser. So technically each floor is independent. I was told to just leave these things on through the whole house, but im going to test just having the first floor kitchen one and living room ones turned on and turning off the guest room and dining room. So i’ll use 6 instead of 8 and see if that helps at all… my insulation could be better? I’d think, since its a home made in 1969. Honestly this was supposed to be better than the electric baseboard heaters, but its not really working out that way with me, its about the same price. Except now i owe $38k for a heating/cooling system on top of my electric bill.
How big is your house? I assume you have a pretty large house if you have two floors. So 1500kWh seems low or reasonable to me, especially if your house was built in the seventies meaning it is badly insulated, that is just the nature of old houses. For comparison, I have a one floor house built in 82 with 1200 sq ft and December total consumption was 2100 kWh and 270 USD at 11 cents per kWh with indoor temp at 74F and avg outside temp was 20F. I also have an outdoor hot tub which is kept at 99F and I like to use the sauna a couple times a week which consumes about 10-15 kWh each time its used. My mining rig consumes about 350-400kWh a month. Also you're supposed to leave the pump running at a steady comfortable temp 24/7, never turning it off. I never turn off mine, regardless of temperature. Turning it off decreases the life span especially in the winter. It hurts the compressor to do a cold start, just like it hurts a car engine at a very low temp. Just to clarify I live in Finland so costs are of course different, but I think it is fun to compare. :) New houses here consume about 5000kWh per YEAR, but ofc the upfront purchase cost is higher than on an older house.
The only things that matters Not mentioned here. Heating degree days for your local area during those months. Kilowatt hour usage per month. Excess usage from other electric equipment. Dollar cost is irrelevant, if the electric rate changes.
@@J-Mart It could be worse. At least in Cow Hampshire you can put more layers of clothes on during the winter. One can only get so naked when every day is well over 100°f for over a month with double the kilowatt hour cost. You have wind chill, I have convection BAKE. I don't miss those bone chilling NE winters though.
On the bright side, at least in MA, winter rate of 0.33/kwh (FJB) is dropping in May (June bill) to 0.14/kwh which is summer rate. 0.33/was unheard of high. Typically here we saw 0.06 to 0.8/kwh summers and rarely exceeded 0.11/kwh winters.
I assume you probably know by now, reverse cycle air-conditioning is miles cheaper than your oil heater or any other form of heating. Get rid of everything else and always use your Aircon. Also, Solar panels! Yes they are expensive in the US, but they will save you a tonne of money.
You need a house insulation eval. The primary temp losses are too high. Attic space. Cellar/Crawl Infiltration on all windows and doors and vent pipes. Often it exceeds 30 % on some barns/houses. IN Santa Clara CA 11.5 cents KW not bad. Modesto is 15 cents, some areas are hitting near 20 cents a KW. &&&& excess fees and charges to boot.
Propane or natural gas (if you have it in your area) is more efficient. But oil is so cheap these days. I run about $175 of oil heating 3500 sq ft per month in the winter. My house is well insulated as I had a company re-insulate my attic and windows.
The Problem is and will always be the "delivery charge". half or little more of your bill is always delivery charge. Basically paying for the same system that don't change! Call the utility company and ask them just how is it delivered and why does it change with your bill if the methods are the same....and sit back dumbfounded at the answer 😁!!!
Don't be fooled. The Utility companies tell you the gas rate ( .12 per KWH ) but they add charges based on usage which come out to @ .08 per KWH. The bottom line: you pay about 50% more than the stated rate.
I'm here NY. My oil heating bill is getting higher. Use to be like $400 now it's like $750 every drop. Good old Trump days. I using coned rebate system and installing mini split through entire house. They taking out old oil furnace and oil tank and installing new mini split system for $10k.
Yeah FJB lol, my last oil fill up was $1400, up from $800. I use both the oil and mini splits, but at this point oil is just too expensive and these sucker put off a ton of heat even when it's bitter cold out!
@@J-Mart Being a Mitsu owner with the same MSZ handlers, you could have also mentioned you have the 'HYPER' heat system. I have the standard outdoor unit, and honestly speaking, it will make luke warm air down into the single numbers. It shut down once in FEB. when it was -2 overnight! But since it is rated to 5 degrees, that was to be expected. I am in western MA.
@@J-Mart No troubles....I am happy to report that 3 good friends of mine have purchased Mitsu systems on my good word! They are all a bit more extensive then my own, meaning ALL are Hyper models and one of them (neighbor a few homes away) a double outdoor unit, 47K BTU with 5 handlers including in-ceiling cassettes! This will be their first winter with them, and it will be interesting to see if they make it through the sub-zero temps they are rated for. Two are local to me here in MA. as mentioned, the other is in Sanford Maine! Stay tuned (O:
I use Gree high heat units and last month in one of my rental stone houses the bill was over $500 when the outside temp was below zero. I have a nice Bosch on demand boiler in the basement and will probably add some nice cast iron baseboard to the floor that the Gree is on and use that instead. Much cheaper...
Are the outdoor units cycling on and off a lot? Starting the compressors from a stop frequently could run your bill up quickly due to the significant surge of energy required to do so. If there is a way to set your heat such that they can modulate up and down whilst running almost non-stop it could help your bill. The outdoor fans may stop and start, but those motors are ECM so they use very little power. The compressor is the one that likes the energy. Great videos, keep them coming. I will post the finished product on the install in the new home in Huntsville when it is done.
I am not sure how often they cycle. I have heard that even when not “running “ they draw 400 watts. I contacted the installer and will keep a list of questions that are above my pay grade. They are going to allow me to video there next install!
@@J-Mart These are variable speed systems. They dont have an inrush current rating as such. The is an electric pan heater which you could possibly disable.
I’m sure.....It’s the base pan heaters, your pulling 500 watts combined on those 2 units on idle if it’s below 40 degrees outside. In your other video I mentioned I disconnected mine in my 2 hyper heat units, I installed a switch so I can control them when conditions call, also the electrician should have installed a surge protector on EACH UNIT ON THE DISCONNECT, if they didn’t
J-Mart yes for sure. It’s the base pan heaters. I installed my hyper heats and did an idle current draw and it was about 250 watts each unit. The pan heaters come pre installed from the factory on only the hyper heats.
The computer doesn't use that much electricity. I have a friend who complained about the excessive cost of operating his mini-splits in very cold weather. He lives in MA. He won't use them when it is too cold after a $900+ electric bill!
Thanks for the advice, I am glad my bill isn’t that high, I am curious to see what the electric bill will be during the summer. Great comments, thanks!!!
May I know what you paid for each unit and the cost to install? Please and thank you. I plan to get one of these for my living room. I have base board heat throughout the house.
I use Lodi AGP pellet stove (no auger style) as primary (3 tons) and mitsubishi hyperHeat ceiling cartridge with 👁-see and 2 bed wall until for 1k Sq ft. Think we have taken all the right actions.
If somebody interested what is going on really here, and have a same issue with your units read this comment please: Some contractor, if customers tells them what they want, install heads in every room and the even small rooms like nooks and closets sometimes. Its more often happens up north, because they see crazy load calc load like 70-80k btu and slap like 5-6 ton of heat pump on the property. Oversizing them hugely. Lets think about it: you have like small house 3 bedrooms like 10x12 and living room. We are taliking about cool, not a heat now. But stay with me guys. So these bedrooms if multihead is applied gonna be like 3 6k btu units and 24k btu multihead condenser outside. And then you think how the fuck its possible my whole house load like 24k btu (or 2 ton) and I putting 24 in bedrooms. This is sad reality what is going on. Those multi is not that efficient, single crazy efficients. And now you have like 2 of them like this. So total like almost 5 ton of cooling. This is where its get crazy, multi head units are applicable some times, but not everytime people want. In this guy particular situation, if he have attic one ducted unit should be installed which covered all bedrooms upstair like 12-18k, maybe one separate single for his personal bedroom 6k. Downstair only one head 12k. If he gonna save his oil furnace this configuration will work fine 2,5 or 3 ton all together. If no oil furnace all of them hyperheat.
I have a Mitsubishi Mr slim. And the standby power is astronomical 5.63 kWh a day. On standby. Do you have a new model but it might be worth checking. I shot mine down with the main breaker when we’re not using it. But only in summertime. They have very small jets inside them so they have to keep the oil thin using heaters inside the compressor. When you first turn them on from the main breaker you are supposed to leave them a few hours to heat the oil, on my model. This might help you with what’s going on with yours hopefully Phillip
Man you guys are all lucky with your 16 cents/kWh. In San Diego, CA we pay 41-52 cents per kWh. Plus a significant penalty if we exceed 1100kwh in a month. That 1500kwh would be over $800 here. Of course we don’t have the heating expense but longer summers put us in A/C mode almost 8 months now. If you’re more than 15 miles inland you’ll be paying. I’m looking at mini splits for cooling more than heat.
The whole Mitsubishi Mini-split Operation is total crap. Customer service is hours of on-hold music. The installers and service network is total crap. I've had a down mini-split since last August. Mitsubishi didn't call back repeatedly took months to send a replacement for the defective compressor. They only listed two service contractors. Blown off appointments and phone calls for weeks and months.
That is unfortunate, I have not heard any other issues other than yours and one other. I’ll keep track of the negative experiences and do a special video once I have more examples. Thanks for the feedback!
As a licensed Industrial / commercial HVAC/R tech not diamond dealer. The customer service is awful since Trane bought them. I had a 3/4ton HH2 that ran 13 months and went flat. Unit continued to run with very low levels no loss of charge protection. Found the evap coil had a large leak in a Ubend. The copper was razor thin and you could see the riffling of the tube on exterior. They only would replace the coil not the high wall head. The local Trane dealer did there best. Long hold times poorly manufactured. It was great before the sale. I would steer away and go LG, or some other brand.
The HVAC services down in my lowcountry SC area aren’t interested in repairing anything. One contractor wanted to charge me $6300 to put in a Mitsubishi 1 ton mini split heat pump (floor mounted) on an elevated foundation with easy access. This is for a replacement install, not an initial install. They really don’t need new line set, just reflare the old and run the new com, electrical and drain. Things are so outrageous all over this island that I bought the tools and I am learning to install and service them myself. Since the price for service calls and diagnosis ($250) is so high, and the repair parts are also, I’ve started to treat these units as replaceable. Of course I will find responsible second homes or donation points for them…. The component parts generally don’t quit at the same time so you’re only repairing (if cost effective) or replacing one or the other as a direct one to one match. I really didn’t want force learn mini split HVAC but we have two rentals with 4 heat pumps between them, so what can I do? I definitely can’t be shelling out 13k every few years to have the island ‘professionals’ rip me off. In this environment nobody can be without AC or heat (due to the elevated foundations on the ocean) so redundancy is an absolute necessity if you want to stay in your home while the repair is taking place. Units don’t last long down here, after 5 years on sea air and salty marshes you are on borrowed time.
I calculated the COP of those units, though I didn't know the exact BTU output of the condensers. The COP is 2.8, which is 280% better than electric baseboard heaters. Thing is, compared to natural gas, you need to reach upward of nearly a COP of 4 before it is on par for price. While it is really efficient in comparison to a 95% boiler or furnace the cost of gas and oil is just that cheap. Also, a gaming PC often doesn't reach the levels people think they do these days. I remember when they would actually use upwards of 1200 watts. My current gaming system uses around 200-250 watts. Some hardware will increase those numbers, but upgrading to even the best CPU and GPU combo often shows 500 watts these days (TDP of 200 for the CPU and 300 to 350 for the GPU) Motherboards often work around 15 watts and everything else is small numbers.
Thanks for taking the time and doing the math. I could make another video with all the great comments I get from people like you! I was told the same, that compared to electric heat that these were 3 times as efficient, and it’s not easy comparing this with oil gas etc since the price is always changing as is the weather. Good point about the pc power usage too! Thanks
1: Electric resistive would be COP1 if the rating was for heat and air conditioning. COP is rated 1electric in 1out for COP1 and all electric resistive if it be air element or oil filled it is all 1 unit electric in 1 out. Not sure if i can say watt in watt out or not because it isnt defined that way i think it has to do with time. 2: Not everyone has access to NG. 3: Im running a fairly efficient pc as far as base parts but with serious over clocking to 4.6ghz CPU, 3200mhz 16gig vengence, and a much out dated gtx 1060 OC dual to 2100mhz i did find the limits of the PSU i installed at 500watt thermaltake gold. I since backed things off a bit but i did really push some good numbers on my budget OC efficiency build on just 500watts thanks to a majorly modded i5-7600 i had a working stable 4.6 on air cooling (took 2 days and much modding including decapping, reducing height, and flattening) backed it off to 4.4 and been running it for about 4 years now. Is getting time for a new rig though. There was alot wrong with my Asus prime z270 board sound issues bios issue and it threw fits over being messed with i love Asus but not this board. MY i5-7600K ran 4.6 on just 1.24volts at sub 100watts. It does really depend on the kids rig and what he is doing with it. Charging up his vapes, mining, and gaming 4 hours a night his dad thinks he is sleeping then gaming all day after school. if he is pulling 750wat 12 hours a day thats about 270Kwh month lol.
that gaming PC under full load/power is probably only pulling 350-500w max from the wall. At idle it sips on power 5-10 watts. Also this is largely depending on his computers power supply efficiency There are different efficency ratings/quality (80+, white, bronze, gold, platinum, titanium). You get what you pay for with this part, it's generally one of the most important part on a PC yet often overlooked since it doesn't "add" performance. It maintains system stability, reliability and quality power supplies last a lot longer (which can be used for multiple builds)
Before heat pump was the house cold and you were just heating the room you were in? And now the whole house is hot everyday? Or Do you change your temperature a lot? With a heat pump you should try and maintain the temperature. The heat pump uses a lot power to bring up the temperature. Those are the most common reasons why hydro bill are high with heat pumps.
I turned off the heat the night before so it would more of a test. You are correct that leaving it at a predetermined temperature is much more efficient
By the way Ryzen CPUs are the less power hungry on the market right now.. I'm not sure why your son's computer is warm. Mine? fans barely spin and I'm in Texas.. So room temp is always high except for Winter nights it gets 29F through out the winter.
Yup, the 5950X is the best thing you can buy right now.. Price/Performance also Power Usage/Performance.. Anyways thanks for the vídeo I'm trying to take a decision on these kind of AC Units because I'm planning moving abroad and where I'm going houses are not built for central AC.. ✌🏻😅 is either buy multiple units or one of these..
Do you have a problem with your lower Louver flipping I have three Mitsubishi indoor units and about once a week I have to manually flip the lower Louver back down
I install these things for a living. There is one key thing that no installer mention on how to use the machine. Don’t turn them off at night. The amount of power used to maintain a homes temperature is small. The amount of power used to crank it on in the morning to reheat the home is huge. Think of an oven.
I'm having a problem with my Hyper Heat. It makes a whooshing sound from the indoor wall unit every 15-20 minutes, which I assume is the defrost cycle, which is way too frequent. Problem is it even does it when it's 38 outside, so not sure what it's defrosting. I already had the installer come and take out all the coolant and put the right amount in after measuring all the line lengths. He's saying it's 100% right. Could the whooshing be something else entirely. Other problem is after I switch to Hyper Heat, the kWhs basically doubled compared to last year when I was running the regular Mitsubishi. There's gotta be some problem with the new unit, right?
@@tinytownsoftware3837 38 degrees and high-ish humidity is going to be when you are going to need more defrost cycles. The system is working fairly hard at that point, and the air can be pretty wet, so, even though the air temperature is 38 degrees, the coils are much, much colder. Remember, they are moving heat from the outside air to the inside of your house. In so doing, the cool from inside your house is being moved and concentrated onto coils that are what, a couple dozen square feet? 10's of thousands of cubic feet of air volume are being heated by moving their temperature to the extremely small, by comparison, coil.
@tinytownsoftware3837 if you haven't gotten it fixed already, it is more than likely needing a firmware update. This is a well known issue. Google it.
the music. annoying
I haven’t been doing this for a long time, I am still working on it, thanks for the feedback.
This whole rant is annoying too
@@vitaliypro8441 nope. Rant is justified. He doesn’t get to the point, very repetitive, and thats okay I guess. But the music is annoying.
@@vitaliypro8441 lol Why did you watch it then?
frikin music sucks , stopped watching 😮
*Love this unit! Using upstairs in my sons bedroom **Fastly.Cool** and he’s finally able to be comfortable upstairs without me freezing downstairs. Works for more sqft than expected!*
Yeah they definitely cool and heat a larger area than I expected too, thanks!
Get rid of that music.
Someone has already mentioned this in a previous comment, but it's worth repeating. If you have your heat set at 73, that's your problem. I use 1-18K mini split for cooling, and a 98% modulating gas furnace to heat a 2000 SF R20/R40 insulated 3 story home in climate zone 5. Winter gas bill is around $70 per month if I keep the heat set at 71. Wasn't feeling well last January and set the temp to 73 for a good portion of the month and my bill went to $160. That extra 2 degrees is a killer. Believe it or not.
Yeah it really makes a difference in energy costs by bumping up the heat a coupl degrees. Thanks @
Yeah, but 71 kinda sucks when you are old. The other problem is mitsu thermostats suck. If I set it to 71 I wake up to 68. No matter what I set it to it butchers it. A quick web search finds tons of folks with similar mitsubishi complaints. It either doesn't heat to that temp or cooks you but never consistently keeps a temperature.
@@J-Mart Did changing the temperature help out? If you tried
Why would 2 degrees make any difference? Heat loss in your house is all about temperature difference. If it’s 20 outside then setting your thermostat to 71 vs 73 vs 78 makes the difference 51, 53, and 58. Even in the worst case this should only be a 13% increase in heating load.
With heat pumps / mini splits there are some efficiency losses as you increase indoor temperature, but not 2x. With a gas furnace, there’s non of that. Just as efficient at 100 as at absolute zero.
Where this difference WILL matter is in an apartment. If your neighbor sets his unit at 71, and you set yours at 68, your unit may never even turn on. He’s heating your unit though the in insulated wall. However if you set yours at 73, your unit may be on all the time while you heat his unit for him.
@@thebigdoghimself Yep Mitsubishi stuff is trash
This doorbell music is scrambling whats left of my brain
Sorry about that Mr Booger
Yeah, hate it
I have a hyper heat unit in my apartment and my January bill was high too. Evidently you’re supposed to “set and forget” with these and let the absence detection feature lower the room temp by a few degrees when no one’s around. Otherwise it has to ramp back up from a lower setback which kills the efficiency. Being used to a gas furnace, I was turning my thermostat down aggressively when I left, only to have the compressor crank up to a high speed when I returned a few hours later. Going forward I’m going to let it coast, which is when it’s most efficient. I’ll only turn it down/off when I leave for more than 12 hours.
I never took the “set it and forget it” into account. I too turn on and off and set the temp up and down on a daily basis, maybe that’s the reason my bill is so high! Thanks for the comments!!!
I wish there was a support group for Mitsubishi mini-split owners so we could compare efficiency settings. Do you know of any?
Ben brown why don’t you start one, ..”build it they will come”
This whole video and all of the conversations would fit in really good at the Green Building Advisor forums. They are already talking about all of these things, and several installers chime in so it is a high quality conversation in general.
Has anyone here tried the set and forget method Orr otherwise fixed the issue with higher than expected bills?
It’s not supposed to be turning on and off much, they are meant to be running practically 24/7 to reduce power consumption. They use more power on start up then when they are just trying to hover around the set point.
Yeah good point, although they will heat a room quickly it is more energy efficient to set it and forget it.
Sorry- I watched the 8:00 video and have no idea what you are trying to convey. I installed 3 mini split exterior units and 12 indoor units so I have fairly good idea of how they behave.
I have a sense meter for service disconnect and emporia for the branches. Maybe that would help you. But please make a video short and to the point.
I am working on being more precise, thanks for the feedback.
So using so many of these in so many units. Can you say if its cost saving?
As a owner of two units with 4 head units each. He is probably turning off the heat and ramping it way up. This is not a cost savings as you'd think.
Heart pumps work better when you keep a set temperature throughout the day
Another thing worth checking could be that it’s low on refrigerant/freon.
If the pipe length has exceeded the pre charge length it may be short (low heat pressure).
Works checking the super heat etc.
Great tip! Thanks
Those Mitsubishi units will 100% heat down to -5 degrees F with no problems. You don't need hyper heat enabled until it gets that cold. I'd look into better insulation for your house. These units automatically adjust their output based on the conditions in your home. More insulation will hold heat better and your compressor can slow down more.
Yes good point
I would have a blower door test done too to see if your house is leaking too much.
Hyper Heat isn't a feature you can turn on and off - it's the marketing name for their low-temperature line of air source heat pumps. If you have a Hyper Heat outdoor unit, it will work in any temperature, essentially. There's nothing the user has to do any different. If it's set to Heat, it'll work. (Down to something like -17F...)
When sleeping, I use one thick down comforter, and I am toasty warm even if it is freezing cold (around 32F or 0C). You might also enjoy an electric blanket.
Great tip!
We converted from all electric baseboard in Dec to 3 Mitsubishi Split Deluxe Wall Units for our 800 SQ rental. 2 Small, I believe 6,000 btu in the bedroom and a larger in the living room. However, our electric bill has gone up for the 3 months since with KW per day usuage increasing. The temp between the previous year was roughly the same for 2 months and for the other month it was much warmer this year at an average oe 42 vs 32 last year. We have also been away from the home for the last 2 months with temp set at 65. Somewhat concerned since we are renters that something is wrong as prior to leaving twice using a Keuring our circuits popped which never happened previously and the unit beneath us who also converted over has had their electric bills go down.
I’m no expert when it comes troubleshooting, but nearly the entire country is paying much higher energy prices, most likely reason why your bill is much higher. My electricity provide increased rates by 119 percent here in NH, so check that first and if that’s not the reason than I’d check with the installer, he may come by for free since he installed it.
Saw a video where it was -27 degrees in MN. The mitsu was still going strong. Pretty incredible. I wonder what his bill is looking like.
Yeah wouldn’t want that bill lol
Was a Mr Cool (Gree Flexx)
My HVAC guy said pick a temperature and stick with it. The up and down will make it more expensive to run.
Yeah those are great points!
@@J-Mart yes high efficiency stuff is made to run longer. 3000sqft 120 a month. I keep it at 71 all year.
Now, I don't know much about Hyper units for I have just begun my investigation. (building my last home, 720 sq feet, one story, and I am looking for a heating source). What I do know is a bit about insulation.. Here are some questions that need addressing before any comments can be made.. How many sq feet is your home? What is the footprint or foundation perimeter in linear feet? What style house is it, ie. cape, colonial, ranch etc? I think the most important question to ask and for you to address is what is the amount or depth in inches is the ceiling insulation in the upper most level. Houses built in the early 70's required an R19 between the ceiling rafters (6 inches deep). Today an R49 is code in zone 5 (I believe). Not only is R19 well below todays standards, the rafters are exposed to the element and are acting as a thermal bridge or a highway so-to-speak bringing not only winters cold air into the conditioned space but summers hot air. If you have a drop stairway leading to the attic make sure it is insulated properly. Take a trip into your attic and see what you have. A quick look will reveal if any insulation has been added. If you can see rafter tops, you need more. If you need more lay it down perpendicular to the rafters and you will eliminate the thermal bridging. It's imperative (if you have one of these) to build or purchase an attic pull down stair insulator box. OH! The last thing is- I've recently had Eversource, CT, through subcontractors insulate two of my homes; one was $3,400 and the other was $8,700. Both fully reimbursed by Eversource. Last but not least, if I may, please turn down the background music just a bit.
Be well, Pete
Great advice about the attic insulation. Mine is barely covering the rafters and is the main reason why my electric bill is so high. This video is a couple years old and I have learned alot. My house is 2000 square feet and the footprint is 25 by 40 feet by the way and it's a gambrel style. Did you have to be on government assistance or have a certain income cap in order to qualify for eversource to reimburse you for the insulation? Thanks!
@@J-Mart WoW! Great news! Now you have a remedy to drastically curb your energy bill! FYI - I even had them insulate the basement ceiling in one of my houses; you should too. If this program is still in place make sure your insulation contractor is very specific on his descriptions of what he's doing and where he is applying it. And you must use his exact verbiage when filing for reimbursement. - - I cannot seem to find the exact organization that I reach out too to get the ball rolling. But here is the info to our contact person Eversource contacted who was responsible in getting the energy audit going. Give her a call and she may be able to direct you. Tell her Pete Crowley and Anne Marie sent you! LOL. Be well my friend. Do not hesitate to reach out to me again. Hey, let me know how you make out on both the project itself and your future heating/ac bills.
Here is her info:
Michelle Long
Principal
203 919 1445
203 648 0607
@@littlered6780 awesome, thank you very much. I'll contact her and hopefully get the insulation taken care of soon!
Install a sense system to monitor elec use in real time. I do not regret my install.
Ok thanks for the advice
And that’s why insulation is the most important part of the heating and cooling process
Exactly, thanks!
Exactly, thanks
What is the cost per kw , sounds like you need to do the self power consumption test on you home. The 2 things I tell my customers 1) Is never run your heating below 68, mini-splits run on sensors and not timers for defrost. If the temp is below 68 indoors there not enough heat to get a good defrost for the outdoor unit. A timed defrost can be 1 cycle per hr . A sensor defrost can be 3-4 per hr. 2) mini-splits are not designed to be the only source of heating . It's best to set your mini-splits at 70 and your back up heat at 65.
Thanks, sounds like sound advice. Our kilowatt hour price is around .24 but it’s not very consistent, sometimes it’s half that price depending on who’s president it seems like.
Here for the ac part of it..I heard the heat part of the unit is crap
My wife seems to think so, guess it depends on electricity prices
I think I read somewhere in here that you are turning the temp up & down a lot. That may be your problem! I have a different heat pump but if I would do that here is what happens. If you turn it down say at night. Then turn it back up 4 or 5 deg. mine would go into back up axullery heat mode and kick in electrical heat strips (just like a regular electric heater, making your meter spin faster than you can see!!!) until it catches up to the set temp. You are better off setting it at 70 or whatever and leaving it or just increasing it by 1 degree incraments untill you get it where you want it. That way you are only using the heat pump not the electric back up strips, If you have a meter that spins look at it when you do it both ways. hope this helps
I agree with you, I made this video a while ago and now do exactly as you say, thanks!
it's always easier for an HVAC system to maintain a temp rather then have to climb from a lower one (in the case of heat) or cool an area from hot. Best advice set it to a comfortable temp, say.. 72, and let it stay there all year round.
Need dual fuel or a biomass stove for when temps get below freezing.
Was wondering if you have an update after implementing some of these tips in the comments. I'm looking to put it a hyper heat unit and am trying to get an idea of what to expect for cost to run.
I’ll start working on it
@@J-Mart appreciate your response!
I am also thinking to install a mini split heat pump separate from my current heat system, which is oil.
But I’m little worried of electric bill.
I don’t want to pay $13000 for mini split and then get huge bills.
I hear ya man, I am posting a new video tomorrow with hopefully a new baseline on what to expect on your electric bill.
J-Mart thanks
And by the was how much does it really cost to install mini split 5 zone heat pump?
my cost was $16,000 before rebates, $14,000 after rebates
@@J-Mart who installed your system? I'm in MA. Also had you considered some form of a hybrid system that uses oil/gas and the mini splits? I'm currently also debating over an air handler + mini split or all mini splits
Northern climate, they are actually coming by Monday to move a drip line since we are doing a small addition on the house. Drew Dion is the owner, very friendly and very competitive prices, the lowest by a long shot actually and they are a diamond dealer. Tell him I sent you👍
Cool shirt but the music isn't. We've got this Mitsubishi setup, it keeps us warm, keeps us cool, and does a superior job at both.
Dehumidify mode is master class out of all heat pump/ductless systems we've ever had.
Keep in mind it's about "maintaining temperatures with a small hi/low setpoint", turning stuff off then turning it on is how it becomes $$$.
That goes for practically any home heating and cooling solution.
Thanks for the tips!
what seer are the units ?
26.6
why do so many houses still heat with oil in the northeast? Why don't you convert these old houses to gas?
Gas isn’t available for most of the northeast since it’s so rural population isn’t very dense.
He doesn’t actually to the bill until 3:30 min into it.
Thank you!
A computer uses about 700 watts ....its a huge add on bill if left on 24/7
Thanks for the info
Ya in New Hampsha dude- rates in New England are bouts, and unfortunately solar not an option…this is why new builds in New England emphasize passive huge insulation
anyone encounter efficiency with heat when mounted up top as compared to a floor unit...since heat rises? we're considering a couple of these soonly.
That makes a lot of sense but not sure it would make a huge difference, also the advantages in the winter may be the opposite in the summer and even out, who know but something to consider, thanks!
I am looking at retiring in a few years. Looking at NH. Thanks for sharing the utility bill. I am a believer in mini-splits. Had a Daikin in Hawaii. Hawaii was around .30 cents per KWh. But we had sun and solar. So a non solar month was over $600. With solar I was under $200. NH is about .21 cents per KWh but not the same sunny days. Heat pumps may be the most efficient way but still cost more due to the type of fuel and the cost to provide that fuel.
Yeah I agree, no really cheap way out for energy costs. Hope you make it to NH, it's one of the top free states in the nation if you love liberty and freedom!
9.85¢/kWh on average here in Wyoming, and a lot less humidity, so possibly a really good option here.
Thanks for this Mitsubishi series videos. The other side of the equation is: did your heating oil consumption go down? We just had our system installed and what we expect is to have a higher electric bill but lower oil bill. Since the Mit system is known to heat efficiently at certain temperatures, it will be the main heating source for us and the heating oil is back-up.
Yeah you are 100% correct, your oil consumption will drop but your electric will go up, how much you will save depends on the cost of electricity where you live. Thanks!
We just had our Mitsubishi installed. Looking at your bill that’s pretty good. Because we spend about $100 a month during summer. With out the heating. So if we spend $150 dollars a month for the heating. That’s is still low compared to our oil. We spend about $1600 minimum during winter on 70 degrees F. $150 x 8 months that’s 1200 for electricity. 8 months is already long.
Wow that’s great, hope you continue to have low energy costs!
Electric Supply Charge and then an Electric Delivery Charge????
Yeah this is how it’s done in the northeast, messed up!
2 years later
Do you still like them?
Any regrets?
Anything you’d do differently?
No I wish I would have purchased earlier and now with oil being so expensive this will save even more money
@@J-Mart my bill was $600 for December. Any recommendations to lower cost?
Were you able to figure out how to reduce the electric bill while continuing to use heatpump?
It’s too close to tell with fuel and electricity prices all over the place unfortunately
Curious how it works today and yesterday. Mt. Washington was -102 with wind chill.
I had to use it today because my oil burner died last night somehow. The mini splits did heat up the house though thankfully at -14 so I’m impressed!
Great to see another member of the New Hampshire family on RUclips! Thank you for the info! I am looking at getting a heat pump for me house.
Awesome, I’ll have to check out your channel too, thanks!
@@J-Mart Also, I believe your sons PC pull probably 160watts or less at peak usage. Unless he has "over clocked" it and change the power settings. You can buy a Kilowatt meter on Amazon for like $30 to double check.
Have you checked the wattage consumption while in heat mode? Mini splits SUPPLEMENT heat with electricity to heat up if it needs to, check to see if there is a heating element in your unit, that might be your answer, in heat mode they are not that efficient. Computers don't consume that much even with high end graphics, I have custom made gaming rigs and they average 200-400 watts at peaks, just make sure you have proper cooling to keep the fans from speeding up and keeping the CPU and GPU cooler. The label (yellow) one should tell you the rating for heat mode and is usually lower than your cooling rating. I don't use mini splits for heating even though they got them. I checked the amperage/wattage in heat mode on one of my 1 ton units and it can creep up to 800 to1K watts in heat mode, not sure if your units use heating elements (as needed) but mine do. I use the main furnace for heat because is natural gas and is cheaper, not that cheap but cheaper and more effective because it does the entire house. Natural gas is going up too so I'll be adding more panels to my PV system so I can run more electric gadgets such as the heating on the inverter units and lower dependency on gas and hopefully lower my gas bill, my electric bill averages 7-30 dollars a month due to having a PV system. Hope that helps.
I stopped using them for heat also once the temps dip around 40 or below. I have not checked the wattage consumption, I don’t have the tools to do so. Thanks!
Nope sir, a mini split is basically a heat pump. It doesn't heat like a resistor but simply 'pumps' the outside calories. Even at freezing temperature, my hyperheating unit still has a cop of 3.5. Yes the performance decreases with cold but it's awesome as a main heating device if you don't live in Siberia..
Why the background music?
That’s weird, mini spilt air conditioner should be significantly cost less to run than HVAC/ Central air conditioner.
I think in general they do save money, depends on the price of electricity and temperature etc, thanks!
Fossil fuel heat is cheap, natural gas, oil, or propane. If your electricity cost is high you may not be able to save money, though it is always nice to have a backup system.
That's your electricity bill only. What was your oil bill? Final Question. What was your total oil electric bill for Feb 2019 and 2020? Was it less or more.
I don’t have an oil bill yet, but if average out over the winter, it’s $200 a from November through April
240 last month in Eastern WA. 25 degree most of the month. Heating a 2400 sq ft house with a Mitsubishi Mini Split. Kept the house at 68 all month. My bill also includes water and sewer. I average 180 a month for am entire year.
Wow that’s not too bad. Thanks for the info!
What's your electric rate if I may ask. That seems low for new england.
@@tylersmith4265 it's around 20-24 cents per kwh.
Hi, my husband and I got Mit. mini splits installed last year. Our bill skyrocketed to $400 - $500/mo on low setting. May I ask what you pay now (2024)?
@@korea1441 still the same for me. Energy cost here is 13.28 cents per kwh
Prices in New England are ridiculous anyways. My husband lived in Litchfield, NH and I grew up in Lowell MA, but when we wanted to buy a home we couldn't justify the taxes on the houses up there so we moved South. My taxes are just under 800 a year for a small 3 bed 2 bath while my in-laws pay 10,000 a year on their 4 bed 3 bath home. My electric bill which is heating and cooling has never been over 150 even in the 100+ degree summers and the water bill has always been under 100 a month. Income is a bit less here, but it still does not justify the tax rate and cost of living up there.
Sah H wow that’s crazy! My parents moved to Florida for the very same reason, and I’ll probably do the same someday. Thanks for the great comments!!!
@@J-Mart Born in Claremont NH grewup in Lexington, Ma prices and taxes just crazy made it to Hawaii been here for 30 years again prices are crazy bought a Place in Alabama for retirement next year. 6 bed room house 2 each 1-bedroom cottages on 3 acres of land taxes $550.00 a year yea that's on month electric bill here.
Sorry... From the UK here. These taxes you speak of... Are these something you have to pay every year simply because you own the house? We have "council tax" here which for me is around £1500 per year which covers drinking water, garbage collection, sewerage and all other local authority supplied services. This 10k tax you mention, what do you get for your 10k?
Thanks
Jim Lahey. It’s the property tax, and it is based on the value of your house and land. This pays for the police, roads, fire department, local government, schools and library’s, sewer, and trash. Doesn’t include water, electricity, medical insurance or dental or any other form of government help. Great question!
Did you install a heat strip with it?
I’m not sure, it had a heated defrost pan for winter use if that’s what you mean
Hello from Ukraine. Not mini split but multi split. Because of multi zone capabilities and multiple connections. Each channel goes to separate room. I got the same looking Mitsubishi Electric 4 zone device but it has different name. Thank you for this video and have a nice day!
Thank you for the info!
Now install a incandescent light bulb, middle of your home.
Do you know what SEER2 rating your units are? thanks.
26.1 seer
@@J-Mart Wow, that's the highest seer rating I have ever seen. Should be very efficient!
I do hvac and it stupifys me how people have such limited understanding of electricity. When I moved here in this location in 93 I only paid about 45 to 50 dollars a month. Its up over $200 a month now. I have only one light on at a time, keep my house at 58-62f , who’s stealing my power? NOBODY!.....The cost of energy has dramatically gone up in NH... Ignore the cost, compare the KW hrs. I installed several Hyper-heats in my daughters house , its very comfortable in the unit rooms that are on and she doesn’t have to buy oil as often anymore, My brother had an electric car and boasted how of his MPG on his hybrid... till he got his electric bill!.... There is no free lunch.
I hear ya, this was filmed two years ago and people are going to have to choose between food and fuel this winter with the price of all energy thru the roof!
@@J-Mart Yeah, here in MA National Grid raised their electric supply rates from 14.821 cents / kWh (11/01/21 - 4/30/22) to 33.891 cents / kWh (11/01/22 ‐ 4/30/23). This is absolutely ridiculous. You add in delivery and the other fees and you're almost at 50 cents / kWh. Anyways, the town I live in is part of the Mass Power Choice program which is an electricity aggregation program where the town gets bids for three year contracts through third party electric providers. 2020 was the last time the contract was renewed. So my supply rate is locked in at around 9 cents / kWh until the end of next year. I have electric resistance baseboards so these minisplits are amazing. I just had my third one installed. I got three separate units installed instead of one giant one doing three zones because the individual units can throttle down lower and I like the redundancy in case one unit dies or needs maintenance. I won't lose the entire house. In the past I have stupidly lowered the thermostat too low while I am sleeping so in the morning the units would need to go full blast to bring the temperature to what I set it at. I am going to try a "set it and forget it" approach this winter. I'll lower them no more than 2-3 degrees. Thanks for posting the video.
Yeah… i have 8 Mitsubishi mini splits at home, I live in MA, i let the mini splits coast as was told, and even with a supplier that is charging me less than national grid (.18/kwh) we ended up with a bill of $816 …
@JP How large is the home and how well is the insulation in the house. We are in Massachusetts and looking at these systems. I was told it will be lesser than oil and gas.
@@Michaeljallen1978 my home is 2085 sqft, 2 floors, 4 of them upstairs and 4 of them downstairs, each floor connected to its own outside condenser. So technically each floor is independent.
I was told to just leave these things on through the whole house, but im going to test just having the first floor kitchen one and living room ones turned on and turning off the guest room and dining room. So i’ll use 6 instead of 8 and see if that helps at all…
my insulation could be better? I’d think, since its a home made in 1969. Honestly this was supposed to be better than the electric baseboard heaters, but its not really working out that way with me, its about the same price. Except now i owe $38k for a heating/cooling system on top of my electric bill.
Thanks for this video and Please let me know how is this units are drawn power a lot power . If you compared with your old heating system.
I can't answer that right now, there are too many variables that I can't account for, energy costs, a new addition and kids all moved out.
What size mini split do you have . I’m from nh as well I’m planning on putting one of these on van to go do van life down south
I’m not sure, I’m away on vacation currently
What was your bill last year. At this time, it will give you an idea if it doing well.
I’ll have to take a look and compare, thanks!
Damn. I use 5000 kwh during December. Your electric costs are crazy expensive.
With hyper heat system those heat pumps are 100% efficient at 10 degrees
Thanks for the info
How big is your house? I assume you have a pretty large house if you have two floors. So 1500kWh seems low or reasonable to me, especially if your house was built in the seventies meaning it is badly insulated, that is just the nature of old houses. For comparison, I have a one floor house built in 82 with 1200 sq ft and December total consumption was 2100 kWh and 270 USD at 11 cents per kWh with indoor temp at 74F and avg outside temp was 20F. I also have an outdoor hot tub which is kept at 99F and I like to use the sauna a couple times a week which consumes about 10-15 kWh each time its used. My mining rig consumes about 350-400kWh a month.
Also you're supposed to leave the pump running at a steady comfortable temp 24/7, never turning it off. I never turn off mine, regardless of temperature. Turning it off decreases the life span especially in the winter. It hurts the compressor to do a cold start, just like it hurts a car engine at a very low temp.
Just to clarify I live in Finland so costs are of course different, but I think it is fun to compare. :) New houses here consume about 5000kWh per YEAR, but ofc the upfront purchase cost is higher than on an older house.
My house is 2000 square feet and my attic needs more insulation. I also don't turn of my system and I leave them at a constant temperature. Thanks!
Seems like your house isn’t insulated well or there are a lot of thermal leaks and it’s causing them to run more than they should have to.
You are correct. We just got some work done and the attic is poorly insulated. Will definitely get taken care of soon
The only things that matters Not mentioned here.
Heating degree days for your local area during those months.
Kilowatt hour usage per month.
Excess usage from other electric equipment.
Dollar cost is irrelevant, if the electric rate changes.
Good point, thanks
@@J-Mart It could be worse.
At least in Cow Hampshire you can put more layers of clothes on during the winter.
One can only get so naked when every day is well over 100°f for over a month with double the kilowatt hour cost.
You have wind chill, I have convection BAKE.
I don't miss those bone chilling NE winters though.
*YES... my neighbor's uncle said the same!! It consumes more electricity*!!
yeah my best friend says his cost $70 for the entire summer but he has 2 units and a smaller house.
I think the manufacturer need to create it so that it's energy efficient because I would like to have one like this.
what is the size of your inverter?
I have 2 2.5 ton inverters
On the bright side, at least in MA, winter rate of 0.33/kwh (FJB) is dropping in May (June bill) to 0.14/kwh which is summer rate. 0.33/was unheard of high. Typically here we saw 0.06 to 0.8/kwh summers and rarely exceeded 0.11/kwh winters.
Yeah it tough with FJB fn everything up, hope the prices keep going down
I assume you probably know by now, reverse cycle air-conditioning is miles cheaper than your oil heater or any other form of heating. Get rid of everything else and always use your Aircon. Also, Solar panels! Yes they are expensive in the US, but they will save you a tonne of money.
You are correct, thank you
Crank case heater in the compressors to keep the oil viscosity thin in cold weather.
How did the units do when the temps got around 0° ???
They still make plenty of heat, but the closer to -13 the less efficient
Does this also apply to the Mitsubishi GL series?
You need a house insulation eval. The primary temp losses are too high. Attic space. Cellar/Crawl Infiltration on all windows and doors and vent pipes. Often it exceeds 30 % on some barns/houses. IN Santa Clara CA 11.5 cents KW not bad. Modesto is 15 cents, some areas are hitting near 20 cents a KW. &&&& excess fees and charges to boot.
I just got my house wrapped and sealed and will look into getting an evaluation, thanks
Propane or natural gas (if you have it in your area) is more efficient. But oil is so cheap these days. I run about $175 of oil heating 3500 sq ft per month in the winter. My house is well insulated as I had a company re-insulate my attic and windows.
Thanks for the info and comments. I need to get my house re insulated soon
How much is your electric bill?
My oil delivery use to be $400 but now last delivery was $750. I'm putting mini split here in NY
The music is annoying?
It is thanks
Damn...why the need for background music for a narrative video.
Yeah rookie mistake lol
Was the charging instructions followed exactly? High electrical usage is related to low charge
I had it installed professionally so I hope so. Most likely need to reinsulate the house, thanks!
The Problem is and will always be the "delivery charge". half or little more of your bill is always delivery charge. Basically paying for the same system that don't change! Call the utility company and ask them just how is it delivered and why does it change with your bill if the methods are the same....and sit back dumbfounded at the answer 😁!!!
Yeah great point and so ridiculous, thanks!
I plan on hooking up to the offpeak. Peak here in northern Minnesota is .13 cents a kw
That should be reasonable on your electric bill
wow here in Germany because of the Green Politics were now close to .40 cent in € . RIP
So this beats gas how lol???
It doesn’t lol
You have follow up video for this? I’m following please.
I am going to work on one soon, thanks!
Don't be fooled. The Utility companies tell you the gas rate ( .12 per KWH ) but they add charges based on usage which come out to @ .08 per KWH. The bottom line: you pay about 50% more than the stated rate.
Yeah you are correct 👍
I'm here NY. My oil heating bill is getting higher. Use to be like $400 now it's like $750 every drop. Good old Trump days. I using coned rebate system and installing mini split through entire house. They taking out old oil furnace and oil tank and installing new mini split system for $10k.
Yeah FJB lol, my last oil fill up was $1400, up from $800. I use both the oil and mini splits, but at this point oil is just too expensive and these sucker put off a ton of heat even when it's bitter cold out!
@@J-Mart Being a Mitsu owner with the same MSZ handlers, you could have also mentioned you have the 'HYPER' heat system. I have the standard outdoor unit, and honestly speaking, it will make luke warm air down into the single numbers. It shut down once in FEB. when it was -2 overnight! But since it is rated to 5 degrees, that was to be expected. I am in western MA.
@@garysmith8455 I thought I mentioned it but I apologize.
@@J-Mart No troubles....I am happy to report that 3 good friends of mine have purchased Mitsu systems on my good word! They are all a bit more extensive then my own, meaning ALL are Hyper models and one of them (neighbor a few homes away) a double outdoor unit, 47K BTU with 5 handlers including in-ceiling cassettes!
This will be their first winter with them, and it will be interesting to see if they make it through the sub-zero temps they are rated for. Two are local to me here in MA. as mentioned, the other is in Sanford Maine! Stay tuned (O:
I use Gree high heat units and last month in one of my rental stone houses the bill was over $500 when the outside temp was below zero. I have a nice Bosch on demand boiler in the basement and will probably add some nice cast iron baseboard to the floor that the Gree is on and use that instead. Much cheaper...
Thanks for the advice!
What specific gree unit do you have?
@@Bostonn617 saphire evap head with multi+ultra condensor for growth (multiport). 3 ton...
Are the outdoor units cycling on and off a lot? Starting the compressors from a stop frequently could run your bill up quickly due to the significant surge of energy required to do so. If there is a way to set your heat such that they can modulate up and down whilst running almost non-stop it could help your bill. The outdoor fans may stop and start, but those motors are ECM so they use very little power. The compressor is the one that likes the energy.
Great videos, keep them coming. I will post the finished product on the install in the new home in Huntsville when it is done.
I am not sure how often they cycle. I have heard that even when not “running “ they draw 400 watts. I contacted the installer and will keep a list of questions that are above my pay grade. They are going to allow me to video there next install!
@@J-Mart These are variable speed systems. They dont have an inrush current rating as such. The is an electric pan heater which you could possibly disable.
Who would add this music
Old video, sorry
Not a bad video, but lose that dizzy music .. it'll be much better!
Yeah live and learn, thanks!
Yes the music hated it
What was the video all about? I own the Mits units and basically you said your bill was high but you didn't know why.
Sorry old video, more concise better video coming soon.
I’m sure.....It’s the base pan heaters, your pulling 500 watts combined on those 2 units on idle if it’s below 40 degrees outside. In your other video I mentioned I disconnected mine in my 2 hyper heat units, I installed a switch so I can control them when conditions call, also the electrician should have installed a surge protector on EACH UNIT ON THE DISCONNECT, if they didn’t
M B I must have missed it, thanks for the tip!!!
J-Mart yes for sure. It’s the base pan heaters. I installed my hyper heats and did an idle current draw and it was about 250 watts each unit. The pan heaters come pre installed from the factory on only the hyper heats.
@@SubStationSparky i am installing a new system next week. I thought the heat pan is extra device i need to buy
The computer doesn't use that much electricity. I have a friend who complained about the excessive cost of operating his mini-splits in very cold weather. He lives in MA. He won't use them when it is too cold after a $900+ electric bill!
Thanks for the advice, I am glad my bill isn’t that high, I am curious to see what the electric bill will be during the summer. Great comments, thanks!!!
I’m not turning my heat on till I absolutely have to it really just is to expensive to run it for months on end
This is the time of year that these units hardly use any energy though, so it won't cost too much.
May I know what you paid for each unit and the cost to install? Please and thank you. I plan to get one of these for my living room. I have base board heat throughout the house.
I don’t have a price per unit but it was around $16,000 for all six indoor units and the two outdoor units. Thanks
You might want to put up thermal curtains. The more heat you keep in, the better...also on that screen door. God bless
Thank you and God bless to you also, thank you for the advice!
I use Lodi AGP pellet stove (no auger style) as primary (3 tons) and mitsubishi hyperHeat ceiling cartridge with 👁-see and 2 bed wall until for 1k Sq ft. Think we have taken all the right actions.
Yeah that’s the way to go, good job 👍
Honestly, I can't watch this video because of the annoying music in the background. Sorry.
The music...... why?
I was just starting out, had no idea lol
@@J-Mart no worries bro.
If somebody interested what is going on really here, and have a same issue with your units read this comment please:
Some contractor, if customers tells them what they want, install heads in every room and the even small rooms like nooks and closets sometimes. Its more often happens up north, because they see crazy load calc load like 70-80k btu and slap like 5-6 ton of heat pump on the property. Oversizing them hugely.
Lets think about it: you have like small house 3 bedrooms like 10x12 and living room. We are taliking about cool, not a heat now. But stay with me guys. So these bedrooms if multihead is applied gonna be like 3 6k btu units and 24k btu multihead condenser outside. And then you think how the fuck its possible my whole house load like 24k btu (or 2 ton) and I putting 24 in bedrooms.
This is sad reality what is going on. Those multi is not that efficient, single crazy efficients.
And now you have like 2 of them like this. So total like almost 5 ton of cooling.
This is where its get crazy, multi head units are applicable some times, but not everytime people want.
In this guy particular situation, if he have attic one ducted unit should be installed which covered all bedrooms upstair like 12-18k, maybe one separate single for his personal bedroom 6k. Downstair only one head 12k. If he gonna save his oil furnace this configuration will work fine 2,5 or 3 ton all together. If no oil furnace all of them hyperheat.
Thanks!
I have a Mitsubishi Mr slim. And the standby power is astronomical 5.63 kWh a day. On standby. Do you have a new model but it might be worth checking. I shot mine down with the main breaker when we’re not using it. But only in summertime. They have very small jets inside them so they have to keep the oil thin using heaters inside the compressor. When you first turn them on from the main breaker you are supposed to leave them a few hours to heat the oil, on my model. This might help you with what’s going on with yours hopefully
Phillip
Great info, nobody has had a clear answer yet until you, so thank you!
Man you guys are all lucky with your 16 cents/kWh. In San Diego, CA we pay 41-52 cents per kWh. Plus a significant penalty if we exceed 1100kwh in a month. That 1500kwh would be over $800 here. Of course we don’t have the heating expense but longer summers put us in A/C mode almost 8 months now. If you’re more than 15 miles inland you’ll be paying. I’m looking at mini splits for cooling more than heat.
Wow that's outrageous! They work especially good as air conditioners, they spread the cool throughout the house very evenly, and cheap.
Here in my town, we make our own and it is hydro. We are at $.07 KWH at this time. Feeling very lucky.
The whole Mitsubishi Mini-split Operation is total crap. Customer service is hours of on-hold music.
The installers and service network is total crap. I've had a down mini-split since last August. Mitsubishi didn't call back repeatedly took months to send a replacement for the defective compressor. They only listed two service contractors. Blown off appointments and phone calls for weeks and months.
That is unfortunate, I have not heard any other issues other than yours and one other. I’ll keep track of the negative experiences and do a special video once I have more examples. Thanks for the feedback!
As a licensed Industrial / commercial HVAC/R tech not diamond dealer. The customer service is awful since Trane bought them. I had a 3/4ton HH2 that ran 13 months and went flat. Unit continued to run with very low levels no loss of charge protection. Found the evap coil had a large leak in a Ubend. The copper was razor thin and you could see the riffling of the tube on exterior. They only would replace the coil not the high wall head. The local Trane dealer did there best. Long hold times poorly manufactured. It was great before the sale. I would steer away and go LG, or some other brand.
The HVAC services down in my lowcountry SC area aren’t interested in repairing anything. One contractor wanted to charge me $6300 to put in a Mitsubishi 1 ton mini split heat pump (floor mounted) on an elevated foundation with easy access. This is for a replacement install, not an initial install. They really don’t need new line set, just reflare the old and run the new com, electrical and drain.
Things are so outrageous all over this island that I bought the tools and I am learning to install and service them myself. Since the price for service calls and diagnosis ($250) is so high, and the repair parts are also, I’ve started to treat these units as replaceable. Of course I will find responsible second homes or donation points for them….
The component parts generally don’t quit at the same time so you’re only repairing (if cost effective) or replacing one or the other as a direct one to one match. I really didn’t want force learn mini split HVAC but we have two rentals with 4 heat pumps between them, so what can I do?
I definitely can’t be shelling out 13k every few years to have the island ‘professionals’ rip me off. In this environment nobody can be without AC or heat (due to the elevated foundations on the ocean) so redundancy is an absolute necessity if you want to stay in your home while the repair is taking place. Units don’t last long down here, after 5 years on sea air and salty marshes you are on borrowed time.
1000 watts per hour for the computer
Thanks
I calculated the COP of those units, though I didn't know the exact BTU output of the condensers. The COP is 2.8, which is 280% better than electric baseboard heaters. Thing is, compared to natural gas, you need to reach upward of nearly a COP of 4 before it is on par for price. While it is really efficient in comparison to a 95% boiler or furnace the cost of gas and oil is just that cheap. Also, a gaming PC often doesn't reach the levels people think they do these days. I remember when they would actually use upwards of 1200 watts. My current gaming system uses around 200-250 watts. Some hardware will increase those numbers, but upgrading to even the best CPU and GPU combo often shows 500 watts these days (TDP of 200 for the CPU and 300 to 350 for the GPU) Motherboards often work around 15 watts and everything else is small numbers.
Thanks for taking the time and doing the math. I could make another video with all the great comments I get from people like you! I was told the same, that compared to electric heat that these were 3 times as efficient, and it’s not easy comparing this with oil gas etc since the price is always changing as is the weather. Good point about the pc power usage too! Thanks
Great info, unless his kids mining all day long which adds up at 40-50$ per month.
1: Electric resistive would be COP1 if the rating was for heat and air conditioning. COP is rated 1electric in 1out for COP1 and all electric resistive if it be air element or oil filled it is all 1 unit electric in 1 out. Not sure if i can say watt in watt out or not because it isnt defined that way i think it has to do with time. 2: Not everyone has access to NG. 3: Im running a fairly efficient pc as far as base parts but with serious over clocking to 4.6ghz CPU, 3200mhz 16gig vengence, and a much out dated gtx 1060 OC dual to 2100mhz i did find the limits of the PSU i installed at 500watt thermaltake gold. I since backed things off a bit but i did really push some good numbers on my budget OC efficiency build on just 500watts thanks to a majorly modded i5-7600 i had a working stable 4.6 on air cooling (took 2 days and much modding including decapping, reducing height, and flattening) backed it off to 4.4 and been running it for about 4 years now. Is getting time for a new rig though. There was alot wrong with my Asus prime z270 board sound issues bios issue and it threw fits over being messed with i love Asus but not this board. MY i5-7600K ran 4.6 on just 1.24volts at sub 100watts. It does really depend on the kids rig and what he is doing with it. Charging up his vapes, mining, and gaming 4 hours a night his dad thinks he is sleeping then gaming all day after school. if he is pulling 750wat 12 hours a day thats about 270Kwh month lol.
Heat pump units generally produce about 3.4 kilowatts of heat per kilowatt used dependant on ambient air temps
good info thaniks
that gaming PC under full load/power is probably only pulling 350-500w max from the wall. At idle it sips on power 5-10 watts.
Also this is largely depending on his computers power supply efficiency
There are different efficency ratings/quality (80+, white, bronze, gold, platinum, titanium). You get what you pay for with this part, it's generally one of the most important part on a PC yet often overlooked since it doesn't "add" performance.
It maintains system stability, reliability and quality power supplies last a lot longer (which can be used for multiple builds)
thanks for the advice, much appreciated!
Maybe an Intel atom sips 5-10 watts at rest. Probably more like 40-100w at rest.
@@0zfer i was wondering what the hell they meant lol
Yeah me too
@@0zfer it Depends on Bios and windows settings. MoBo's are the biggest variable since most users don't play with the settings.
I sell these units for a living these are Mitsubishi HyperHeat units not the regular SUZ heat pumps
Correct
I just got notified that my town is switching to an electric CO-OP. 5 cents a kwh plus line fees. We'll see what happens on the next bill!
That's awesome
Before heat pump was the house cold and you were just heating the room you were in? And now the whole house is hot everyday?
Or
Do you change your temperature a lot? With a heat pump you should try and maintain the temperature. The heat pump uses a lot power to bring up the temperature.
Those are the most common reasons why hydro bill are high with heat pumps.
I turned off the heat the night before so it would more of a test. You are correct that leaving it at a predetermined temperature is much more efficient
By the way Ryzen CPUs are the less power hungry on the market right now.. I'm not sure why your son's computer is warm. Mine? fans barely spin and I'm in Texas.. So room temp is always high except for Winter nights it gets 29F through out the winter.
Thanks for the heads up, wasn’t aware of the new Ryzen chips, my kids is a couple years old now.
Yup, the 5950X is the best thing you can buy right now.. Price/Performance also Power Usage/Performance..
Anyways thanks for the vídeo I'm trying to take a decision on these kind of AC Units because I'm planning moving abroad and where I'm going houses are not built for central AC.. ✌🏻😅 is either buy multiple units or one of these..
The Donkey Kong music is killer
Lol thanks!
Do you have a problem with your lower Louver flipping I have three Mitsubishi indoor units and about once a week I have to manually flip the lower Louver back down
No all 6 of mine work flawlessly. May be a warranty issue, I would check with the installer