Mitsubishi HVAC At My House - Full System Tour
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- Опубликовано: 7 янв 2021
- www.mitsubishicomfort.com/
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This woman is amazing. Thanks again for all the info.
This is my profession but on the commercial scale. This nice lady knows her stuff. Good video, and very accurate HVAC information. No errors 👍
Having some humidity issues in my South Texas home, and boy, have I learned some things from this video. Thanks for everything you do @Matt Risinger
The showcasing of the mid static unit is what sold me on installing a multi zone mid static at my home. We have 540 sqft, and are going to be adding another 575 sqft. I chose a Pioneer brand because it’s diy friendly, and I can install it myself as well as the fact that I can install the air handler for the existing structure now and install the air handler for the addition in a few months to a year when we make it to that phase in the addition.
I know next to nothing about HVAC, but I taught myself just enough to be dangerous and install my own unit. Thanks for doing videos like this Matt, I’m always learning something.
Kimberly knows it and explain it clearly. I'm taking notes along the video, although just for general knowledge. Great detailed episode Matt.
Brilliant channel. I'm from the UK where these units have been pretty standard for some time. What amazes me when I go to the USA is how powerful the air con is. Everything is full pelt. I go to Disney and the shops all have the doors open and the sidewalk is cold because of the cold air spill. Really loving this channel I am obsessed with air con and am always up in my loft as my home is air conditioned with the same units your using in your attic space.
Disney is in Flordia UK is cold and more north.
I'm building this spring and I found this video extremely helpful. Many thanks!! Greetings from Newfoundland Canada
One of my favorite videos yet.
Love those Mitsubishi systems. Big fan of mini splits, introduced to me when I worked in Taiwan. Awesome content!
Purchased: August 2023 - still works GREAT!I ruclips.net/user/postUgkxxsUnXhGsSJLim_XnMHyQK0u3XVaW-CGn live in a studio and during the summer it gets scorching hot - really old building with no ac units. I can’t express how EASY it was to install. This unit has been a life savior during the summer and some days during other seasons where it can still be a bit warm at night. In this small place is my friend, a husky, poodle mix and myself. We need AC - lolI don’t use the dehumidifier option - I’m not sure if it will leak in my house, since I did not install the small draining hose that came with it. May look into it late but I don’t worry about much humidity in the apartment. I don’t understand why the negative reviews since all things mentioned, I personally did not find issues with. Definitely worth it!
All ac's condensate. If yours came with a drain designed to be exiting your house, you'll need to install it or, a leak will appear one day, sooner and not welcomed as no one desired to confirm my words. If it happens don't feel too bad though, the solution is known, allow it out. Then get ready or, make a way possible for it to be flushed/clean every 6-8 month, if possible install it a flow switch or two, in case one fails the other may work as a rescue, to avoid the unwelcomed drain overflown or drain failure or clogged due to the nature of the system. Again, don't get frustrated or mad. What I tell you is what many don't bother to do tell you because of all the reasons implied. Hope you get this. If not, you will! Any questions just ask. I'll try to help.
I installed a 3 ton Mitsubishi hyper heat system in my house- love it. I was going to use a ceiling cassette however the installer talked me out of it. The drain lines are a high maintenance item if you're not going purely gravity. The cassette units rely on a pump for the condensate, and you often end up with either leakage and/or mold in the lines. He said he'd install it but every time he does it he has to come back for those reasons.
Overall this is an amazing system and extremely efficient. Super quiet and I'm extremely happy with it over the last couple of years.
You’re installing contractor is absolutely unqualified on mini-split condensate pumps. If you can’t find the right pump, reply here and I will post the link to the right pump.
I thought the pump is Original Equipment, ie built in.
Episodes like this are honestly more valuable than the architectural engineering courses I took in college.
I found that most things in life are haha
There is an error. It's a minor one that can cause costly damage in the future. Where are the Secondary drain pans with flow switches. If those systems primary drain lines gets clogged, all of the water that is coming off the evaporator coil will overflow in the primary drain pan and leak through any cracks that water can find and will ruin his ceilings causing him to make costly repairs that could have been avoided had he put a secondary drain underneath those systems.
secondary drain pan underneath those systems.
I like that you hard piped all of this so important in a system like that
You kill it every time... still waiting on you to build me a home.....
People, Engineers are at the hart of best practices. Matt’s home proves that we can’t “wing it” any more so please don’t ignore knowledge input in building systems. The costs have been going down and customers are more educated.
Awesome build spec, agreed to using mini splits and cassettes downstairs. Def saves from cutting holes.
Glad to see USA slowly moving into the 21st century in the residential HVAC deployments :). In continental Europe and Asia Mitsubishi and Daikin are deploying even more advanced equipment with multiple internet connected units and sensors, and even hybrid geothermal pump based multi-split systems.
Matt Risinger is doing a good work out there. He's not only lowering your costs, he's also lowering emissions and your carbon impact, no matter if you care about it, or not.
It's absolutely infuriating how slow we are to adopt new tech out here while all the regressive idiots scream how we're number one. There are people in the comments here whining about how they only recommend the tired old single zone ducted systems they're used to because [insert scary possibility about new thing here].
Great explanation of a lot of concepts - thanks. Greetings fro Cleveland, OH!
thank you to all participants, Current, Past and FUTURE Videos
Its always Great to View Various Industry Experts in that Particular Business Sector as a Speaker
= FOR Sharing the knowledge
most helpful
Yeah HVAC is fun and all, but hold up... job site coffee machine?
I was really hoping he'd spend a good minute on that.
I see it on Homely Depot’s site. Also available in Special Ops Black. 😆
I have one. It’s great.
Pros:
Uses K cups so it’s easy to find pods for.
It’s fast as shit.
Cons:
It has to be plugged in. I keep it in the truck where I can plug it in anywhere.
It also only makes like 3 cups before needing to be refilled.
Jeremy, how tall of a container can you fit into the opening?
Right
Thanks for your new episode!
Love the super nerdy details!
The few hvac installs that I don’t pick apart bad practices. From one picky hvac guy, that is a beautiful install.
My 20 y/o DFW house has 6k sq ft under HVAC coverage. Finally finished 2 yr project replacing 5 complete HVAC systems zones and 2 tankless hot h2o systems, $75k new roof and $30k in JW replacement windows.This year is backyard refresh time with pool and pool house renovations, privacy fence replacement and resoodding dogs side of yard.
Could have built a brand new 2500 sq. ft. home.
Thanks for posting. Wish I knew about this before I bought a new house. Kimberly rocks.
Hi Matt, at the end of the video... how are you going to seal the freon lines? Will you seal to both, to the black tubing and to the copper pipe? Just wondering if you could make a video about that also. Happy New Year to you and your family!
Use smart tiles that regulate moisture passively as decoration on some walls ... like that no issue with moisture. They absorb moisture from the air when it's too humid, and release moisture back into the air when it's too dry, passively without you needing to do anything else.
After a quick look, I'm not sure why you comparing "Smart Tiles" to HVAC/Dehumid/Air treatment system. This is not that you can compare, at least I don't understand. For me its like comparing a bike with an aeroplane, which is faster or can carry more passengers.
Hello from the great state of Michigan
Check out rough in boxes for your ductless heads for new construction and titan airex boots on all systems, a little cleaner install. We use Ruud Inverter systems on all our high end custom homes with Ultra Aire dehumidifiers and Fantech whole house hepa filter systems. I also install ervs controlled with voltage sensing relays wired into exhaust fans and stand alone makeup air systems for kitchen hoods to keep a positive pressure on the house. Most people are surprised how much better air quality they can have in their home with a little extra time and planning. Educated builders are key to this, I have a select few custom builders I work for in central texas that are educated and don’t mess around. Good luck out there, stay safe and done sell yourself short.
Did you do a blower door test to determine the air changes per hour as an input to mechanical design?
Would love to hear about the ductwork tradeoffs and how you came to the decision. I love the vibration isolation detail but would’ve liked that unistrut to be parallel to the ground, you can tell those springs could catch on the sides over time.
I was just thinking the same thing that screw with the spring cap is already touching the unistrut
Totally! I was having a hard time concentrating on what was being said because I was like, "What happened here? That iso is going to need to be changed out as soon as the system gets powered up the first time."
@McNea The inverter/zoning technology for central a/c systems has been out for quite a while now, but their proprietary controls for each manufacturer seem to still have issues from what people say. If they could get that under control or agree on a standard, I think there would be more adoption of it! Even the existing systems (Trane) can also have small zones since it can control the compressor speed like the mini splits, and even have zones that can "participate" if they're too small to run alone. Though I don't know how the system would be affected if you have a long duct run. Also, in other countries, do you think the cost of mini splits is a lot less since it's pretty much the norm there? They don't seem to care as much about having visible units on the wall like we do here in the U.S.
As a HVAC technician, I don't recommend mini split from repairing aspects. Many of control board and connector are proprietary parts. Which it increases repairing time and costs. In ur case, it is okay since u have central AC to help if ur mini split got problem. (FYI, what I know as a technician in Houston that most of HVAC supplies to support central AC system. Think about mini split as Tesla and central ac as Toyota, u might not able access proper part for Tesla, but u can go any store to get Toyota parts.)
I agree here- definitely need a robust warranty where parts are available and/or manufacturer or distributor are quick to replace vs repair when parts are not available
That sucks man, what makes have you run into that didnt have parts readily available? In east TN between the few supply houses around I usually only have to wait on parts for older equipment. I've only really seen Mitsu's, Fujitsu's, and LG's minisplits though so there's a lot I have no experience with. Never had any issue getting parts though, they seem to be either on the shelf or trucked in within hours at the suppliers we buy the units from. Cost, meh, you're probably right that parts can be more expensive. That said, my opinion is that it's insignificant and maybe not even a fair comparison. Parts are only notably more expensive compared to cheaper(lowerSEER) and older equipment, comparing parts to other high efficiency equipment shows little difference.
@@paulmasoner8073 I am hardly running to mini split in Texas. As we know everything is big in Texas, so AC. I mean mini split is so unpopular even store sells the unit but they didn't stock the parts (such as control board, compressor or condenser motor) the store told me they hardly sold a mini split therefore they don't store those parts. if u need it, they will special order the replace parts. I mean I rather shop from amazon for those parts with 2days free shipping instead order from store. yes, u can replace some of parts with after market parts but not every parts.
@@jie1379 I’m in Texas and yes mini splits are not the majorly but VRF heat pumps are getting very popular, one outside unit and multiple indoor units is definitely the way to go.
@@TheJPPowell u might need to consider that multiple evaporator coils will increase chance of refrigerant leakage. I would not recommend my customers that. Instead of that, I would rather recommend one central ac with multiple zone, so there only has one evaporator coils. For long terms, you won't suffer to troubleshoot which coils is leaking refrigerant. (Since we adopted R410a, I noticed evaporator coil get leakage more often by comparing with R22 system.)
@mattrisinger Can you share a diagram that shows the VRF systems and the Zenhder system together?
very informative how do you handle bathrooms are their heads in there.
Thank You guys very informative 👍
Matt and kimberley, thank you to your explanation 👍
My architecture office has had a CitiMulti system since 2007, along with spray foam insulation throughout. It’s an expensive system and honestly the maintenance required on it has been a little ridiculous. We’ve also worked with a college campus who has used Mitsubishi in all their buildings for nearly 20 years now.
Matt
Would you recommend this system as a replacement for a hard ducted system?
How is it heating with the cold weather this week?
This whole rebuild series has been a blast, Matt. Super informative.
Question for you, as a new home owner, is there a legitimate product (hardware, or otherwise) that can disperse aroma/scent through the HVAC system? (Like you’d find in a nice resort.)
Matt, I have a good Mitsubishi ductless system. I had to replace a 30 year old system, my roof at the same time. My electricity usage went from 500-600 a month here in California down to about 150-250 a month during the peak summer last year. one of the nice parts is the system has a dehumidifier built in
What part of CA? I am considering it in Sacramento, seems like the climate is mild enough for the heating of a standard mini-split.
@@grantrobarts Placerville
I saw on a previous video you had two layers of foam, I’m curious, are you going to insulate between the rafters, and if so with what product?
Nice intro 👌
With a vertical loops in you're lineset can create a oil trap. If you don't want to cut the lineset shorter make the loop horizontal so the oil won't be trapped.
The lines weren’t connected yet
Makes my 70's rancher with high effieciency natural gas down draft look like a Ford model A
Great job!!! Only thing i would change is the armour flex on the line sets. K flex Titan type insulation holds up with UV much better.Especially when penetrating thru the exterior. Eventually the insulation will get hard,crack and lose its insulation factor.There goes your tight seal penetration. K flex doesn't rip when installing. Its even hard to cut with a utility knife.
Where did you choose to put triple glaze windows vs double and why?
Matt. On the hyper heats..they come with a base pan heater on the outdoor units... I live in Connecticut I unplugged mine on all 3 of my units.. if you have them on your system unplug them... I never had a problem and I’m way up north...they kick on at 40 degrees or in defrost mode which you may only see a couple times a year..my units I installed myself, and designed based on load calculations (I used to work for Johnson Controls) Electrician by trade.... I got 5 zones and 3 outdoor units. Also mine are mounted 2 ft off the ground..also make sure you add a surge protector at each outdoor unit at the disconnect. I’m not sure you need any of this information but I learn something on every of your videos.. THANKS!
How does your aircon tie into your Zehnder HRV?
Hey Matt I was wondering if you could tell me why you went city multi s-series instead of m-series.
Nice information, good video.😊😊😊😊
Great video.
(Funny aside: if you set the "Quality" of this video to 480p or lower, it looks exactly like a mid-90's CD-ROM computer game video cutscene.)
Can you explain a bit more about the filter and clean air system setup? It would be good to know for other families with asthma or allergy problems.
Will you be insulating your attic or leaving it as-is? I was under the impression that unconditioned attics where not a great place to placed ducted systems. I just had a Mitsubishi SVZ-KP24NA (ducted attic unit) installed in my attic and was told that I should insulate my ceiling with closed-cell insulation - is this correct?
I am curious how your heating system held up with the crazy winter storm Texas had this past year? I hope it worked okay for you.
Also curious, since you’re a builder and this is your own home, do you recommend Jeld-Win windows? I saw them in your video. I live in northern Ohio near Lake Erie. Gets cold in the winter and lots of snow.
wow. Kimberly is impressive! she made this clear and easy to understand. I wished you or she explained a little bit better how it works when you have more than one indoor unit hooked up the one compressor. Also, one advantage you both didn't mention a mini split has is, that you dont have to run ducts thru the upstairs rooms to cool the lower floors, specially now that the builders start building multi floor houses.
That's what the purpose of the variable refrigerant valve is they discussed early on in the video.
Thank you for this video. I purchased the SEZ indoor unit, but it did not come with the return air filter box. What's the part number and where can I buy it?
Just installed my Mitsubishi great unit thanks to you sir. Question is why do you insulate the supply ducts if there inside conditioned space?
The attic where the equipment is, is not a conditioned space. As you can see, the roof is not insulated. It's best to insulate the ducts to help them maintain the temperature of the air they are carrying and to keep them from getting condensation on them which could then run off.
What is the ductwork behind you in the ceiling?
Here in north Georgia it would be really nice to have a whole house dehumidifier that just ran automatically as needed. Might be 75 out but 90% humidity and it feels sticky without the a/c.
Minisplits like the system he put in have variable speed compressors and fans. Beat the pants out of any dedicated dehumidifier since you can just put the system in dehumidification mode and as it does the cooling it also optimizes for maximum dehumidification. Very efficient! I was planning to put a minisplit in my master bedroom just for dehumidification but now I may be moving so I nixed that. But if I was staying in Virginia I would put a few strategic minisplits for alternate cooling/dehumidification vs. a dehumidifier any day.
Did your HVAC contractor adjusted the settings on your control board? If you still have your manual, you can adjust the fan speed to reduce the CFM and optimize dehumidification. Since I run a portable dehumidifier in the basement, I haven't asked to have that setting done on our air handler.
@@DocNo27 there is no doubt that Matt did install the whole house (or ducted zone) de-humidifier.). It will often run to dehumidify even when no cooling is needed.
You can see the ultraire right there
.6, I hope the return is large enough especially with the pressure drop in that filter. Remember you need to get the air before you can supply it. Also, let's look at the supply side, I see lots of turns on the round duct, do some of them total .6 ?
Nice install job. No auxiliary drain pan with a float switch below that unit? (It looks like they aren't finished with the install yet).
The last time I looked at Mitsubishi splits the efficiency of INDIVIDUAL condensers was MUCH HIGHER... into the 35 SEER range. The multiple units that run more than one air handler topped out at around 18 SEER. Wouldn't it be cost effective for INDIVIDUAL condensers for each handler?
Matt, what are you using for your controllers? OneZone?
Curious - why did you go with commercial units (I noticed one of your outdoor compressors is the City Multi) for your residential application?
Matt some day I would like to see a budget house built with your knowledge. I bet you could pull of an amazing build.
I agree but the cognitive dissonance for Matt might cause his head to blow up. He tried something like that for this house and you can see how that worked out.
@@davefoc he would have to take into consideration not everyone takes perfect care of ac or can afford a repair asap.
What's the advantage of having a separate AC system and Ventilation system? Could you not incorporate a heating/cooling coil into the HRU and duct the cooled/heated air. Just seems like a lot of additional ductwork and equipment?
I highly recommend the Saeco Xelsis. Plumbed with a fill hose and a suction vac to empty the drip tray. I did it, it is amazing.
When you described VRF I heard simply the explanation of what variable speed drive (aka inverter drive) can do for any system including one outdoor unit matched to one head and having it operate at variable power levels. I thought VRF is the system of refrigerant junction boxes that would allow different heads connected to the same compressor to be providing simultaneous heating to one zone and cooling to another. e.g. The refrigerant could be evaporating in one head, returning to the compressor and then condensing in another head as well as in the outdoor coil.
City Multi has this feature, but not a "regular" multi zone condenser. City Multi uses a distributor box to accomplish the heat and cool at same time. This feature would be a rare need in a residential application. My personal unit on my house is a 3 ton with 4 evaporators all on separate line set connections at the condenser. I can not heat and cool at the same time.
What are doing for indoor air quality? Also, make-up air so you don't have a vacuum when you run your cooking hood?
Really interesting stuff! Wish my house was as advanced. I had my house built in 2018 but the builder was not a custom builder and offered no HVAC upgrades, so stuck with a standard 14 SEER single-stage AC + single stage 92% efficient furnace (Goodman equipment). I'm having some issues with humidity control (having to over run the AC which I hate). Also, they have the house ventilating with a bathroom fan that turns itself on intermittently. Not happy with any of that.
What about noise and coverage area with the cassette vs. standard duct work?
It’s not about controlling ventilation because it sure is far cheaper to just have seepage. But a heat/energy exchanger allows you to recuperate losses and save.
How much power does this system use? If you had to run a generator, could you power the system AND the rest of the house off of say a 10k generator?
My goodness, so many systems for a residential setup. Just the electrical service alone would require an entire subpanel with breakers for the numerous compressors, hvac units, dehum and fresh air systems. It'd be nice to see some cost $ and projected years to recoup vs conventional 2-zone single compressor setup. Few people can go to town like this with a sponsored setup.
The electrical load is less than you think. Usually, you just home run everything from the main panel to a disconnect. His dehumidifier is on 120v. The ductless systems use less amps than traditional systems, 2 pole 20 amp or 2 pole 30 amp. You only have a breaker for the compressor. The head units are powered from the compressor by either 12/3 or 14/3 i think. I can't remember what I used for my (2) 3 zone systems.
@@believerscc incorrect with city multi
All city multi indoor units run there own single phase 230v line.
The amps are so small on VFD units like this.
to brake even with, that system close to 10 years guarantee, also depends what climate r u living in
You live in Austin TX - on avg, it’ll be 100 degrees daily, from July to Sept.
Just what i was thinking! Round rocks hot!
If you think about the actual time that it is 100 degrees, it is only that hot from like 10am to 6pm (and that is generous). That is still 1/3 of the day, 2/3 of the day would be under.
I agree though, the 1%-of-the-year is a low estimate but the actual % of time during the day is probably not as much as most imagine.
i'm hoping matt or somebody from his team would answer this question...at what point during the build did they do a blower door test to be able to have that data to include in the "Basis of Design" to have a more accurate load calculation?? ...it says Building Infiltration rate (ACH50) is 1 on that big sheet
What is the difference between this system and the air filter system you installed and is these 2 system connected together
in a forced-air system we have one fan that pushes the conditioned air around the home. the air is circulated, pushed and pulled all around the home with just one piece of hardware. Now we want to install a fan and air handler in each room. All installed at the same time, so expect to have to replace all the units at the same time. But now you have the cost of replacing 8 units, not just one. And you will need to do that work in the homeowner's living area and not the equipment room.
It's like installing a small water heater under each sink?
Does electricity consumption / efficacy come into consideration?
Thanks for sharing … Can you please have a video on the importance and how the drain pipes should be connected, and how the primary and secondary drain works.
Matt, Don't you have an ERV? Does the thermal load due to ventilation account for heat/cooling/humidity recovery?
I now see you have a Broan ERV. The specific heat of air is 0.0184 Btu/SCF°F. If you ventilate at a rate of 100 CFM, a sensible ventilation load of 3014 Btu/hr is going to heat or cool that air by 27°F. That seems about right for a 0% efficient ERV in Austin. Is there a boo-boo in the Manual J calculation?
With the variable compressor, does that allow for conditioned air that is not ice cold?
Ideally, I would like to not even notice a temperature difference from the AC vents and the room temp
Looking at that attic I was wondering if you'll be talking about how to insulate up there. Will it be a "conditioned" space itself with foam on the roof deck or other method of insulating?
Insulation is on the outside of the decking you saw in the attic space. The whole house is sheathed in insulation. Look back on Matt's YT site about a half dozen episodes of his home "remodel build".
@@fredericrike5974 Got it. Missed that one. Thanks.
@@TSGEnt I spent 35 years doing subcontract work on houses, new and remodel and also commercial work like hospitals , hotels and commercial kitchens. I have been in love with TBS since I first saw it a couple of years ago. Matt is a very knowledgeable and thorough builder- this is his house and "overbuilt" is to say the least. Enjoy- I always see or learn something new- I'm retired but I still love to see what's up!
Was there an after Christmas sale on arrows?
Super excited to see you're going to do a video on how to control all of this. I've been wondering if there's a need to keep all the zones in sync so you're not using one to cool/heat the other's spaces.
Also less than patiently waiting for the video on your plumbing and getting the low volume to hot water system worked out.
Nope. No need to keep them in sync. In fact, the ones that are hooked to the City Mult VRF system could even be cooling in one zone, whilst heating in the other! Fantastic technology
@@Floridaman8783 but doesn't that put additional load on the systems?
I have two hvac units and I try to keep them at the same temperature, when they aren't reasonably isolated (there's a door that separates the two parts of the house, but it's open during the day.)
If the front is trying to heat, and it's sucking the colder air from the back, doesn't that reduce efficiency overall?
@@s7726 Yes & no but not necessary. Typically when we see ppl running one in heat/1 in cool - they're each off a different zone obviously. But typically seperate areas.
If you've got, say grandma living at your house. And she's always cold in her room? Her zone could be running in heat. Meanwhile, I'm in another zone upstairs, I'm always hot. So I'm running my air handler or mini split or cassette in cooling. Not much effect.
I suppose, yes, if you had 2 big zones right next to each other they could somewhat work against one another. But, that's just it - the name of the game here is comfort. Its about being able to TRULY control your comfort. And, quite frankly, these systems are so efficient - you really wouldn't notice it.
Great video. Matt engraves his pocket knife?
Great video.. one question.. I didn't hear any discussion of humidifiers? Don't you need one of these to humidify the air in the winter? In keeping with this apparent omission, I noticed the heating load chart was missing Latent Loss (which would be heat required to add humidity in the winter). If I'm reading correctly, the Sensible Heat and Latent Heat were the Cooling Loads; and then Sensible Loss and Latent Loss should produce the Net Heating Loads.
Is your kitchen closed off? Are all the zones in your house separated with walls? 4Tons for a nearly 2800 sf passive house? I could be wrong but that seems about a ton high.
Did you ever consider ground source heat pumps? Seems it would be quieter for outdoor spaces, more energy efficient, and lower maintenance...
U put those vents under the windows by the stairs. Are you worried about condensation during winter at all?
The indoor Dew point will likely not be any higher than the 50’s but likely in the 40’s. Any surface would need to be colder than dew point to produce condensation. The windows are either double or triple pane and well sealed. Condensation should not be an issue in this situation.
Do you also factor in-room appliances and electronics into BTUH values for the final load calcs?
You can... But load Calc is a lot of assumptions and there is a lot of overhead included. Especially when you choose your cooling and heating ability in accordance to peak loads.
4 tons for 2800 sq ft in Austin, that's Houston track house size system. Could you explain that more?
11:30 No mention of thermal mass in the house to regulate a more constant temperature.
Thanks for the in depth review. 3 years ago I wanted the unit you have in the attic, with similar loading (360 sq ft: a bedroom and 2 baths, zone 5) but was told, by my Mitsubishi diamond dealer, that it would not have enough static pressure (I have fewer runs than you have).
Could you include all of the inputs to your manual J? Things like hot/ cold temperature for the design load. Sq ft of walls, windows, etc.
This was a great video. I really appreciate the level of detail.
They make a high static unit but the amount of duct in this video is probably to much. He talked about the manual J needs to talk about the manual D. Seriously its a book.
@@TurkeyLeggings he usually uses a professional hvac designer who knows his stuff, and does both the J and D. I just wanted to see the numbers, as I’m quite sure the lower static pressure model would have been perfectly adequate in my case.
How Mitsubishi HVAC overlaps with the Zehnder's ventilation system? What is the ducting and supply/return locations - HVAC vs vent?
I was waiting to see the heat recovery system. Also, not much was mentioned in the fresh air supply system. How is the fresh air supply distributed on the ground floor? How would the bathroom exhaust fan be controlled? How about the kitchen extractor hood? Perhaps to be seen in the next episode!
That was covered in a previous episode ruclips.net/video/OrG7oG8Tvp8/видео.html
Matt - Don't you need a safety /back up water pan under the attic unit, or is it a different kind of coil inside so you don't have to worry about water leaks? Maybe its just not there yet?
These VRF type of units have integral pans with condensate overflow switches. That's typical for Daikin, Mitsubishi, LG, etc.
Matt, I live in mexico, it gets really hot here in summer. The standard way to do ac is to put a minisplit unit in your bedroom, and in your living room if you have the money. Living rooms usually have fans on the ceiling.
What's your opinion on that?
Mexico homes are built with brick and concrete. There is no room for ducting and central ventilation. Mini splits are your only choice.
@@JamesG1126 makes sense!
Why did you choose flexible ducting?