This is a great video. Mini splits are great for shoulder seasons and cooling. I am very happy with my mini-splits but they are not an efficient sole heat source for cold climates- even with Hyper-Heat. The branch circuit amperage required implies why the HyperHeat has better efficiency than Standard at lower temperatures. Hyperheat uses resistive heaters to heat the air to then draw heat from it to convert to BTUs and heat your home. What does that mean? I have a 20K BTU compressor heating 1000 sq ft in New England. When the outside temperature drops below 35, my electricity usage almost doubles. Because of my cost for electricity, it is cheaper to heat the space with $4/gal fuel oil than the mini-split.
Interesting perspective! Electricity rates have climbed significantly nationwide probably because the government is highly incentivizing people to go electric. We don't know all the factors involved but maybe there is a chance your outdoor unit is undersize. Typically 1,000 sq ft is sized around 24k or higher depending on insulation level. Then again, we don't know all the details.
Mini Splits do not use resistive heating. The outdoor heating coil option is for ice build up under certain conditions. Not for heating the space inside
You answered my question. We had a heat pump in Dubuque IA in 1978. It worked well down to about 35F, below that the strip resistance heating coils kicked in and made that meter really spin.
Fantastic! Thanks! Finally someone explains that some Mini-Split Heat Pumps can in fact produce efficient heating as well as cooling. The install company that gave us an estimate never explained Hyperheating Pumps, and wanted to use heating coils as the only option.
Good video; thank you. I’m in SoCal and I think mini splits are beyond awesome when new. 8 - 10 years down the road our experience has been they are brutal (costs) to have the fan wheel/condenser cleaned, and replacing a switching valve is cost prohibitive (and the repair tech hands you off to a sales guy super fast). I found an 18k btu online for $2k delivered, and my local HVAC wants $12k. 😮 We bought a portable heater for now.
Thanks for the input. There are DIY kits you can buy if you want to save money and do it yourself (gotductless.com/products/speedclean-mini-split-cleaning-bib-kit-360). If you need a pro to do it, try to get them to do it more frequently as they will charge much higher if the system hasn't been cleaned in years.
Thank you so much for making these videos! I just purchased a non-hyper heat MXZ-SM60NAM. My area rarely gets down to 15 degrees but I would have bought a hyper heat anyway for the efficiency if they had a 60k btu heat pump, but they only go up to 48k. It gets really hot here, so I need that 60k. Yes, it is important to look at the data for the size and model of the units you need. I think your examples were pretty extreme in differences. I think most new Mitsubishi non-hyper heats are Energy Star.
You're welcome! Some people choose to go with 2 hyper heating outdoors since Mitsubishi doesn't make a hyper heat 60k outdoor. You really do need to go model number by model number to see what makes sense for your application. It sounds like you made the best decision for your space. Thanks for taking the time to comment though!
This is a really helpful and informative video. Greatly appreciated you covering so much ground from performance, to sound, to cost. One question I'd love to get more insight into is efficiency. I noted the standard is 19 SEER and 10.6 EER overall whereas the Hyper is 18 SEER and 12.5 EER, but what is the difference in efficiency (vice capacity) at colder temps? I'm a total novice with this stuff but I suppose a system drawing electricity at a 36k BTU rate but only delivering 19k BTU in heat (loss of 17k BTU in energy?) is less efficient than a 36k BTU Hyper Heat delivering 28k BTU (loss of only 8k BTU). Is that accurate? Welcome any further clarification, thanks!
Thanks for the comment! Think of BTUs as output while electricity is input. The standard 30,000 outdoor unit is wired to a 25 amp breaker while the hyper heat equivalent is wired to a 40 amp breaker. The SEER ratings are similar because the heat output is based on electrical usage. The standard unit uses less electricity but doesn't produce as much heat when compared to hyper heat. Practically speaking, the standard outdoor will be working its very hardest and pulling the most electricity it can in the cold while only outputting half of its rated capacity. You might be paying less for electricity with a standard outdoor but you won't be getting as much heat. I hope that makes sense!
yeah i need to find a watts vs heating chart for the hyper vs non, to compare...... For me I'm eventually going to run these off batteries for a very small insulated space, so power consumption is key... I'll have fuels heaters for backup , but need to try to minimize that.
Thanks for all of the information that you provided. I currently have a standard Mitsubishi mini split. Does the hyperheat upgrade only apply to swapping out the outdoor unit or do you have to upgrade the wall mounted indoor units as well?
You can definitely swap a standard with a hyper heat model. If you have a 3 ton-5 ton standard outdoor right now and you want to switch to hyper heat, you'll need to add a branch box which can be complex and laborious. It may or may not be worth it depending on how your standard performs on the coldest days.
Would you recommend Hyper heat if I live in the Czech Republic, where the average annual temperature in winter is -1°C? Or is an ordinary unit enough for me? There are days when the temperature drops to -13°C, but that's about 10-15 days every year.
You are right on the brink of where the standard unit begins to be inefficient. Anything below 0 C the standard unit will begin to lose capacity. As long as you properly size it accordingly, you can go with a standard. If you want consistent output, go with hyper heat. I'm not sure if Europe has the same product offerings as North America so that is something you should research.
Standard will be just fine. Standard can work in freezing temperature. However, it is wiser to go with hyper heat if you live in an area where it's consistently below freezing.
Repair costs wil be dependent on the contractor that you use to do the repair. The parts are similar in price and are both covered under a max 12 year warranty, minimum 7 year compressor 5 year parts warranty.
So I'm confused. I am a home owner, not an installer. If I have a hyper heat, if it gets really cold will my house be colder? I live in a climate that had 30 F below zero for a few weeks this year. And it can also get over 100 degrees Fahrenheit in the summer, will it not be able to cool as well?
We can clear up any confusion. If you install a hyper heat system, you will get consistent heat down -4 F. So if you live in a climate where it gets colder than 30 F often you will still be covered. It will also cool effectively up to 110 F. I hope that clears up any confusion.
What do you think about having 3 zones of 12k on a 30k outdoor unit , hyperheat system in canada with low temperature.. will it be harder to heat the whole house ?
You can undersize the outdoor unit IF you are oversizing the indoor units for the spaces they are in. For example - if you size a bedroom with a 6k indoor but it really only needs 3k BTU, then you can undersize the outdoor unit by that 3k.
This is a great video. Mini splits are great for shoulder seasons and cooling. I am very happy with my mini-splits but they are not an efficient sole heat source for cold climates- even with Hyper-Heat.
The branch circuit amperage required implies why the HyperHeat has better efficiency than Standard at lower temperatures. Hyperheat uses resistive heaters to heat the air to then draw heat from it to convert to BTUs and heat your home.
What does that mean?
I have a 20K BTU compressor heating 1000 sq ft in New England. When the outside temperature drops below 35, my electricity usage almost doubles. Because of my cost for electricity, it is cheaper to heat the space with $4/gal fuel oil than the mini-split.
Interesting perspective! Electricity rates have climbed significantly nationwide probably because the government is highly incentivizing people to go electric. We don't know all the factors involved but maybe there is a chance your outdoor unit is undersize. Typically 1,000 sq ft is sized around 24k or higher depending on insulation level. Then again, we don't know all the details.
Mini Splits do not use resistive heating. The outdoor heating coil option is for ice build up under certain conditions. Not for heating the space inside
You answered my question. We had a heat pump in Dubuque IA in 1978. It worked well down to about 35F, below that the strip resistance heating coils kicked in and made that meter really spin.
yeah electricity was up for me when I used it in NY
@JeffreyRaymond-kf6ct hyper heat Mitsubishi does not have heater strips,its a more improved heat pump...
This is the first time that I get a clear explanation of the heat pump performance. Thanks!
No problem! Happy to help!
Fantastic! Thanks! Finally someone explains that some Mini-Split Heat Pumps can in fact produce efficient heating as well as cooling. The install company that gave us an estimate never explained Hyperheating Pumps, and wanted to use heating coils as the only option.
@@DrDaab Mitsubishi h2i plus will heat down to -15 f. Cooling and heating with Mitsubishi mini splits is the way to go
Plus are only available in single zone form but yes!
Good video; thank you. I’m in SoCal and I think mini splits are beyond awesome when new. 8 - 10 years down the road our experience has been they are brutal (costs) to have the fan wheel/condenser cleaned, and replacing a switching valve is cost prohibitive (and the repair tech hands you off to a sales guy super fast). I found an 18k btu online for $2k delivered, and my local HVAC wants $12k. 😮 We bought a portable heater for now.
Thanks for the input. There are DIY kits you can buy if you want to save money and do it yourself (gotductless.com/products/speedclean-mini-split-cleaning-bib-kit-360). If you need a pro to do it, try to get them to do it more frequently as they will charge much higher if the system hasn't been cleaned in years.
Thank you so much for making these videos! I just purchased a non-hyper heat MXZ-SM60NAM. My area rarely gets down to 15 degrees but I would have bought a hyper heat anyway for the efficiency if they had a 60k btu heat pump, but they only go up to 48k. It gets really hot here, so I need that 60k. Yes, it is important to look at the data for the size and model of the units you need. I think your examples were pretty extreme in differences. I think most new Mitsubishi non-hyper heats are Energy Star.
You're welcome! Some people choose to go with 2 hyper heating outdoors since Mitsubishi doesn't make a hyper heat 60k outdoor. You really do need to go model number by model number to see what makes sense for your application. It sounds like you made the best decision for your space. Thanks for taking the time to comment though!
Super clear and great information!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for making this video
No problem 😊
This is a really helpful and informative video. Greatly appreciated you covering so much ground from performance, to sound, to cost. One question I'd love to get more insight into is efficiency. I noted the standard is 19 SEER and 10.6 EER overall whereas the Hyper is 18 SEER and 12.5 EER, but what is the difference in efficiency (vice capacity) at colder temps? I'm a total novice with this stuff but I suppose a system drawing electricity at a 36k BTU rate but only delivering 19k BTU in heat (loss of 17k BTU in energy?) is less efficient than a 36k BTU Hyper Heat delivering 28k BTU (loss of only 8k BTU). Is that accurate? Welcome any further clarification, thanks!
Thanks for the comment! Think of BTUs as output while electricity is input. The standard 30,000 outdoor unit is wired to a 25 amp breaker while the hyper heat equivalent is wired to a 40 amp breaker. The SEER ratings are similar because the heat output is based on electrical usage. The standard unit uses less electricity but doesn't produce as much heat when compared to hyper heat. Practically speaking, the standard outdoor will be working its very hardest and pulling the most electricity it can in the cold while only outputting half of its rated capacity. You might be paying less for electricity with a standard outdoor but you won't be getting as much heat. I hope that makes sense!
yeah i need to find a watts vs heating chart for the hyper vs non, to compare...... For me I'm eventually going to run these off batteries for a very small insulated space, so power consumption is key... I'll have fuels heaters for backup , but need to try to minimize that.
Great video. Explained very well to understand the difference
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video! Thanks for the knowledge. 🙂
Glad it was helpful!
Wow. Wonderful video
Glad it helped you in some way!
Great video, well explained
Thanks for watching!
Very nice presentation. Thank you!
Glad you liked it!
Awsome video thank you!
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for all of the information that you provided. I currently have a standard Mitsubishi mini split. Does the hyperheat upgrade only apply to swapping out the outdoor unit or do you have to upgrade the wall mounted indoor units as well?
You can definitely swap a standard with a hyper heat model. If you have a 3 ton-5 ton standard outdoor right now and you want to switch to hyper heat, you'll need to add a branch box which can be complex and laborious. It may or may not be worth it depending on how your standard performs on the coldest days.
Would you recommend Hyper heat if I live in the Czech Republic, where the average annual temperature in winter is -1°C? Or is an ordinary unit enough for me? There are days when the temperature drops to -13°C, but that's about 10-15 days every year.
You are right on the brink of where the standard unit begins to be inefficient. Anything below 0 C the standard unit will begin to lose capacity. As long as you properly size it accordingly, you can go with a standard. If you want consistent output, go with hyper heat. I'm not sure if Europe has the same product offerings as North America so that is something you should research.
Is the hyper heat worth it for someone who lives in San Antonio Tx or would recommended sticking with the standard?
Standard will be just fine. Standard can work in freezing temperature. However, it is wiser to go with hyper heat if you live in an area where it's consistently below freezing.
Hi there!
Hyper heat is the same with hyper inverter?
Thanks for the explanation what about cooling mode on hyper heat??
Great question. Cooling outputs are the same for both standard and hyper heat. The real difference is heating output in various temperatures.
Thanks!
Happy to help!
How do repair costs compare?
Repair costs wil be dependent on the contractor that you use to do the repair. The parts are similar in price and are both covered under a max 12 year warranty, minimum 7 year compressor 5 year parts warranty.
So I'm confused. I am a home owner, not an installer. If I have a hyper heat, if it gets really cold will my house be colder? I live in a climate that had 30 F below zero for a few weeks this year. And it can also get over 100 degrees Fahrenheit in the summer, will it not be able to cool as well?
We can clear up any confusion. If you install a hyper heat system, you will get consistent heat down -4 F. So if you live in a climate where it gets colder than 30 F often you will still be covered. It will also cool effectively up to 110 F. I hope that clears up any confusion.
What do you think about having 3 zones of 12k on a 30k outdoor unit , hyperheat system in canada with low temperature.. will it be harder to heat the whole house ?
Is the hyper heat more effective at cooling as well in the summer?
what you think asbout undersizing outdoor unit?
You can undersize the outdoor unit IF you are oversizing the indoor units for the spaces they are in. For example - if you size a bedroom with a 6k indoor but it really only needs 3k BTU, then you can undersize the outdoor unit by that 3k.