In this tips video, we explore some simple tips and tricks to help you get more life and value out of carbide in the home shop Channel artwork: Ryan Toomey
Good video Jon. Guilty as charged on a few insert things, except for endmills, which I handle and store correctly ;) I always have resevations about the validity of power cross feed, due to continual change in work surface speed (turning radius induced) and having a fixed machine feed rate. Surely that is a negative compared to hand advancing, yet many people and industry see it as a good feature ? Thanks for posting. Cheers Rob
Hi Rob, thanks for the comment, good points so I will pin this at the top. Cross feed traverse has its place if you have large diameter parts and especially if they are not round at the O/D (eg square plate in a 4 Jaw) to help keep the feed consistent. For anything 50mm or 2" diameter and below, I would recommend hand feed every time to be 'connected' to what is actually happening at the cutting edge. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop it's fine if you can change the rpm on the fly, with variable speed motor control. In fact parting or facing power cross feed and spindle speed control to kind of maintain a constant sfm gives you better results.
Jon - you've surpassed yourself! What a fantastically useful video. It's weird how you start to doubt yourself: I never stop the spindle while the tool is in contact; never turn the work backwards against the tool, and never drag the tool across a stationary workpiece, because it's WRONG! ... But you see this sort of thing all the time on youtube and you start to think that you're being a bit precious - nice to have some vindication 😄. You missed my other pet peeve which is people using a lathe that dial in a facing cut with the tool in the centre of the part (=zero surface speed) and then feed outwards to the OD. I will share this far and wide - thankyou.
Morning Jon. Oh my, so many “errors” which I confess to being guilty of. Some I have learned to avoid, but others I still need to address. Thank you for the salient reminders. 😒 Andrew
Gday Jon, straight up i’m guilty of almost all them examples, I have my cutters in trays but I do the same and place them in and don’t slam the draw, since I’ve put flood coolant on the lathe I’ve noticed a big change in insert life, great informative video mate, cheers
Hi Matty, thanks for the comment and feedback. Hopefully you save a bit of coin, especially as I know you are buying good quality insets mate and not just the cheapo rubbish. Cheers, Jon
Good tips Jon. I had an issue where I had to use 2 spanners on the ER32 collet chuck on the mill. That is exactly why I made my spindle lock mechanism - so I can hold the end mill with one hand so it does not fall out.
Hi Jon, thanks for the comment. Yes, a spindle lock is a good idea, a spring loaded one even better so you can't leave it locked and forget etc. I am fortunate in that having a geared head machine, the lowest speed range creates enough resistance to make it a one handed operation, albeit I realise this is not good for my gears. Cheers, Jon
I was going to mention the benefits of a spindle lock freeing up one hand to hold the milling cutter whilst the other hand loosens the tool holding collet.....You'd think evolution would have spawned engineers with 3 arms by now🤣
Excellent video Jon. 👍 Something else with tip #1, the ideal turning speed when facing can often be observed on the finished surface. After taking a facing cut, generally, you can see where the surface feet per minute achieves the ideal rate and it all smoothes out, only to degrade again as the tool progresses further to a smaller/larger diameter. @ 25:00 even before you get it loose careless handing with a collet spanner can also severely damage an expensive endmill. Dont ask how I know about that one! 🙄🤦♂😢🤬🤬
Who knew that a YT video would turn in to a confession box ..🤔🥴☹. Extremely valid points on all Jon, ref lathe inserts, I find inserts with small radi especially vulnerable, R 0.4mm (0.016") and on the solid milling cutters, I've found Powder Metallurgy HSS-PM solid cutters, cheaper than carbide, I get these from Cutwel in Cleckheaton, YG "Only One" range. These are more suited to low power machines, up to 5 kw. Great video and thanks for sharing. Regards John from the Black Country.
Hi John, thanks for the comment and information. I know Cutwell very well, I used to deal with their rep years ago buying 'wobble broaches' for a RR application. Don't disagree with your thoughts.........and.......I confess! 😇. Cheers, Jon
Good one Jon . Another common one is winding the lathe tool back for another cut while still in contact & machine running . A very light cut you get away with it but a roughing cut there is a high chance of damage from the spiral groove you create , esp harder materials . 👍
Hi Max, thanks for the comment and feedback. I am 100% guilty of the 'spiral groove retract', I do it all the time! Maybe the teacher needs to go back to school 🤔🤣. Cheers, Jon
Great info Jon, made these mistakes myself learning machining, don't don't do them now and you're right inserts and mill cutters last longer. Thanks for the vid.
Hi John Thanks for the fantastic video, I’m guilty of 99% of what you illustrated and will mend my ways (I hope). One thing that helped was fitting rubber flooring in my workshop to keep my feet off the cold concrete with the side effect of cushioning the blow to cutters and everything I drop onto the floor that happens to often. Keep up the good work again many thanks for the knowledge you pass on.
Hi Tony, thanks for the comment, I am glad to hear you found it useful. Rubber matting is something I need to do, more so for the insulation properties (electrical and thermal lol). Cheers, Jon
@Jon's Workshop Always useful bud, did you think about covering the use of cutting oil on the lathe and mill? Particularly where and when to apply it? I see lots of people, myself included, applying it on the outside of the material, instead of where the actual tool is cutting, if you get what I mean I think you could make a much better job of explaining it than me mate
Hi Jon, always enjoy your videos, although I'm not a machinist it is still good to watch people that are knowledgeable in their field, and the people in comments, thankyou.
Brilliant video Jon. I have been turning and generally machining for an obscenely long number of years and I have to compliment you on the most competent video I have seen on this forum. Every point you made is spot on. Constant surface speed is a minefield and I cringe when watching some of the home gamers ( and even in some of the widely viewed channels) perform. New subscriber, best wishes , Mal.
Hi Mal, thanks for the comment and great feedback. Welcome to the channel and I hope you will find the content interesting. I just hope this helps a few out thinking differently about how to look after carbide a bit better. Cheers, Jon
Hi, thanks for the comment. Glad you enjoyed it and it's really the primary reason I do this stuff to try and pass some knowledge on before I forget it. Cheers, Jon
eyup John👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 Great tips, and in depth look, i'm sure it will help many, i know a friend who has just bought a lathe and learning turning on a budget, and can't work out why he can't part off, went to have a look and every parting tip has a chip on the end, he say's he can't afford to keep buying them!!!, told him numerous times why!!!!!! but still not sinking in, so i've told him to buy a HSS blade🤔🤔. Also i know a better way to save on inserts!!!!😂😂 don't use them!!🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 sorry could'nt resist!🤣🤣👍👍 see you next time Cheers Kev
Hi Kev, thanks for the comment. Yeah, it's always a fine line on carbide use. From my own experience, I would say you really need a lathe my size or bigger before you can use it properly. The problem is, lots of the new home hobbyists prefer the convenience of not having to grind HSS etc. I am now rekindling my passion for HSS on the Shaper, cheap as chips and lasts forever!! Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop curious that, people take weeks learning to turn but won't take ten minutes to learn to grind. I blame all the old books, and blindly followed later hobbyist books, that say/imply angles are critical for different materials when in the main they are not,
Good advice Jon. I usually use a plastic or paper shim when moving in for a touch-off, so I get within a couple of thou of contact as I feel the paper tighten. Then I spin up the machine and move in ultra-slowly for the last tiny bit. If I try to do it super-carefully with the spindle running all the time, it takes FOREVER. Otherwise I use a video microscope, which feels like a terrible cheat, but when your boring bar is only 1.5 mm diameter, a scope is useful. Not going to use a loupe because I'm scared of that damn great big chuck on the whirly thing being right next to my earhole. I have a plastic pot with foam in the bottom as a catcher when I loosen collets with end or face mills so if I'm a clumsy oaf, they just land in the foam
Hi Machining and Microwaves, thanks for the comment. Sounds like you are on top of it. Microscope is a great idea by the way, not a cheat at all. I have worked on big CNC machining centres where because of health and safety regulations, you can't get anywhere near the spindle (and I am talking within 20 feet). No issue in production, but for new program proving, it's a nightmare. I had video cameras fitted with live feeds to monitors next to the machines controller in the end. Cheers, Jon
Quilty as charged :-) Having an abundant amount of end mills is a good thing, but I too have them laying in my storage box resting on each other. Life getts busy, and that old phrase "I'll make that end mill holder one day", Thx Jon, I got get it done, as Sammie would say (@@)!. Good tips, and yes cost has climbed to where we need to treat them as Gold! Bear.
Lot of common sense there Mr Jon, thankyou for the factual advice, one thing that might be useful is what insert to use and for what application, cheers Jon 🇺🇦🤗👴🏻👍
Hi Terry, thanks for the comment and feedback. Now that suggestion is a minefield lol, but I will take it on board and maybe do a high level summary tips video in the future. Cheers, Jon
Hi Gr eg, thanks for the comment. Lol, the 60 number includes my replies so pretty much 100% from the community who are fantastic by the way. 😊. Cheers, Jon
Always enjoy and learn from your videos. I wonder if you could address a problem, I have seen on several, videos. That is the wandering of a drill bit when it first starts after center drilling. If this makes any sense. It seems, at least on video, the drill bit wanders off center when it first touches the material. Oh, this is on lathes. Thanks for your efforts.
Hi Jerry, thanks for the comment and question. I vaguely remember covering this at a summary level only in an old video (have not a clue which one, sorry), but this is often a topic of some considerable debate in video comments. There are a few causes, and a few mitigations and fixes so worthy of a more detailed look. I will chalk it up on the to do list for a future tips video. Cheers, Jon
The first place to start with that is the sharpening. Hand sharpening is fast and there are many out there who will say you can achieve great results with practice but the centering of the edges is critical. There's no shame in using a jig if you're not happy with the cuts. The tailings tell the story. Even on both sides and you are there. Move on to the tailstock alignment.
You have become one of my top guys on machine shop info..Rustinox ...Mr Pete....as well..I am a retired 35 year Millwright and a basement machinist for about 15 years. All ways on the look out for sharp machinists Who give solid info.Thanks again Jon.....Phil... @@jonsworkshop
Very good info Jon. For myself I use HSS on almost everything. Because I have a lot of it, and have learned how to grind it. plus surface finish is better in most cases for the work I do. thanks
Hi Randy, thanks for the comment. There's nothing wrong with HSS, I am just getting back into it again now on the shaper, it's very cheap, lasts ages, easy to grind etc. The problem is, Chinese carbide is so cheap now that there are lots of new starts in the hobby that have never been either taught or learnt to grind HSS and prefer the convenience of carbide etc. Shame really because for small machines, HSS is much better overall. Cheers, Jon
One day I'm going to link up my cross-slide DRO channel to the speed control on my inverter drive so I can do constant surface speed cuts in CNC lathe style where I'm doing finish cuts with no further processing. That would be a neat little project in fact. Hmmmm
Hi Machining and Microwaves, thanks for the comment. Please follow through with that one, that would be a fantastic project 'hard wired G96' 😊. Cheers, Jon
You need an ELS and VFD, I love mine. I still think manual work is good with the tactile feedback but for basic mundane operations simple automation makes life easier.
I think a constant feed is fine, no need to slow down, just don't speed up. The material may move by the cutter slower as you go in, but you are still moving in the same amount per revolution so you are not going to miss any material
@@mattphilip4595 The problem is maintaining the surface speed to keep the finish consistent and the chipload constant. As the cutting diameter reduces, the surface speed drops linearly with the cutting radius, so chip formation and tool flex varies, leading to a few micrometres of error in flatness and significant banding in the finish where the microscopic plastic deformation zone transitions into brittle fracture and cold stringy chips instead of the almost fluid flow and "Cs and sixes" of ideal chip formation. So you definitely need to speed up rotation inversely to the radius of cut to get best results.
Hi Jon, very useful video. Thanks. I usually put a rag or something underneath my mill spindle to catch the end mill, should it fall out. My mill doesn't have a spindle lock, so I need two hands to undo the collet chuck. Most of the time there's enough friction that they don't just fall out. Except that time I had a 20mm carbide roughing mill that had just been sharpened, and I didn't put anything underneath 🤬🤬
Hi Olly, thanks for the comment and feedback, glad you enjoyed it and found it useful. Spindle lock seems like a good project 🤔🤔, just saying! 😊. Cheers, Jon
Hi Paul, thanks for the comment and question. A lot depends on material and insert type etc, but I covered this in depth in my Workshop Tips video called 'Hitting Your Sizes - balanced cuts', worth a watch to get my thoughts on your question (saves me writing it all out) 😊. Cheers, Jon
Good video Jon. Guilty as charged on a few insert things, except for endmills, which I handle and store correctly ;)
I always have resevations about the validity of power cross feed, due to continual change in work surface speed (turning radius induced) and having a fixed machine feed rate. Surely that is a negative compared to hand advancing, yet many people and industry see it as a good feature ? Thanks for posting. Cheers Rob
Hi Rob, thanks for the comment, good points so I will pin this at the top. Cross feed traverse has its place if you have large diameter parts and especially if they are not round at the O/D (eg square plate in a 4 Jaw) to help keep the feed consistent. For anything 50mm or 2" diameter and below, I would recommend hand feed every time to be 'connected' to what is actually happening at the cutting edge. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop it's fine if you can change the rpm on the fly, with variable speed motor control. In fact parting or facing power cross feed and spindle speed control to kind of maintain a constant sfm gives you better results.
Jon - you've surpassed yourself! What a fantastically useful video. It's weird how you start to doubt yourself: I never stop the spindle while the tool is in contact; never turn the work backwards against the tool, and never drag the tool across a stationary workpiece, because it's WRONG! ... But you see this sort of thing all the time on youtube and you start to think that you're being a bit precious - nice to have some vindication 😄.
You missed my other pet peeve which is people using a lathe that dial in a facing cut with the tool in the centre of the part (=zero surface speed) and then feed outwards to the OD.
I will share this far and wide - thankyou.
Hi MisterG, thanks for the comment and feedback, glad you enjoyed it. Cheers, Jon
Morning Jon. Oh my, so many “errors” which I confess to being guilty of. Some I have learned to avoid, but others I still need to address. Thank you for the salient reminders. 😒 Andrew
Hi Andrew, thanks for the comment and feedback. Glad you found it useful mate. Cheers, Jon
Gday Jon, straight up i’m guilty of almost all them examples, I have my cutters in trays but I do the same and place them in and don’t slam the draw, since I’ve put flood coolant on the lathe I’ve noticed a big change in insert life, great informative video mate, cheers
Hi Matty, thanks for the comment and feedback. Hopefully you save a bit of coin, especially as I know you are buying good quality insets mate and not just the cheapo rubbish. Cheers, Jon
Good tips Jon. I had an issue where I had to use 2 spanners on the ER32 collet chuck on the mill. That is exactly why I made my spindle lock mechanism - so I can hold the end mill with one hand so it does not fall out.
Hi Jon, thanks for the comment. Yes, a spindle lock is a good idea, a spring loaded one even better so you can't leave it locked and forget etc. I am fortunate in that having a geared head machine, the lowest speed range creates enough resistance to make it a one handed operation, albeit I realise this is not good for my gears. Cheers, Jon
I was going to mention the benefits of a spindle lock freeing up one hand to hold the milling cutter whilst the other hand loosens the tool holding collet.....You'd think evolution would have spawned engineers with 3 arms by now🤣
Great tips, guilty as charged on all counts 😆
A handfull of useful tips here. It all makes perfect sense.
Hi Rusti, thanks for the comment and feedback. Glad it was useful. Cheers, Jon
Excellent video Jon. 👍 Something else with tip #1, the ideal turning speed when facing can often be observed on the finished surface. After taking a facing cut, generally, you can see where the surface feet per minute achieves the ideal rate and it all smoothes out, only to degrade again as the tool progresses further to a smaller/larger diameter.
@ 25:00 even before you get it loose careless handing with a collet spanner can also severely damage an expensive endmill. Dont ask how I know about that one! 🙄🤦♂😢🤬🤬
Hi Phil, thanks for the comment and feedback. Yup, you are bang on with both points you raise. Cheers, Jon
Who knew that a YT video would turn in to a confession box ..🤔🥴☹.
Extremely valid points on all Jon, ref lathe inserts, I find inserts with small radi especially vulnerable, R 0.4mm (0.016") and on the solid milling cutters, I've found Powder Metallurgy HSS-PM solid cutters, cheaper than carbide, I get these from Cutwel in Cleckheaton, YG "Only One" range. These are more suited to low power machines, up to 5 kw.
Great video and thanks for sharing.
Regards John from the Black Country.
Hi John, thanks for the comment and information. I know Cutwell very well, I used to deal with their rep years ago buying 'wobble broaches' for a RR application. Don't disagree with your thoughts.........and.......I confess! 😇. Cheers, Jon
Good one Jon . Another common one is winding the lathe tool back for another cut while still in contact & machine running . A very light cut you get away with it but a roughing cut there is a high chance of damage from the spiral groove you create , esp harder materials . 👍
Hi Max, thanks for the comment and feedback. I am 100% guilty of the 'spiral groove retract', I do it all the time! Maybe the teacher needs to go back to school 🤔🤣. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop Not that long ago i chipped the corner of a brand new good quality endmill , slipped out of my fingers cracking the collet free !
Excellent Demonstration Jon. Thanks
Hi Terry, thanks for the comment and feedback, much appreciated. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon very good video I have been guilty of this 1 or2 times haha thanks mate 👍
Hi Trevor, thanks for the comment and feedback, much appreciated. Cheers, Jon
Great info Jon, made these mistakes myself learning machining, don't don't do them now and you're right inserts and mill cutters last longer. Thanks for the vid.
Hi Wayne, thanks for the comment and feedback, much appreciated. Cheers, Jon
THATS A LOT OF GREAT INFORMATION,
I SHOULD WATCH IT EVERY DAY FOR 21 DAYS , YOU KNOW WHAT THEY SAY
THANKS JON
Hi Kimber, thanks for the comment and feedback. Glad you found it useful mate. Cheers, Jon
Hi John
Thanks for the fantastic video, I’m guilty of 99% of what you illustrated and will mend my ways (I hope). One thing that helped was fitting rubber flooring in my workshop to keep my feet off the cold concrete with the side effect of cushioning the blow to cutters and everything I drop onto the floor that happens to often. Keep up the good work again many thanks for the knowledge you pass on.
Hi Tony, thanks for the comment, I am glad to hear you found it useful. Rubber matting is something I need to do, more so for the insulation properties (electrical and thermal lol). Cheers, Jon
That was great Jon. Guilty of a few of those. I really enjoyed your film. Always learning.
Hi Carl, thanks for the comment and feedback. Glad you found it useful mate. Cheers, Jon
Nice one Jon. Taken on board. Cheers Tony
Hi Tony, thanks for the comment, much appreciated. Cheers, Jon
Some useful tips that I will benefit from. Thanks Jon.
Hi Dean, thanks for the comment and feedback. Glad you found it useful. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, fantastic informative video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experiences. Take care mate.
Hi Tony, thanks for the comment and feedback, much appreciated mate. Cheers, Jon
Morning Jon, always enjoy and learn from these mate, thank you so much for sharing
Hi Ralfy, thanks for the comment and feedback, glad you found it useful mate. Cheers, Jon
@Jon's Workshop Always useful bud, did you think about covering the use of cutting oil on the lathe and mill? Particularly where and when to apply it? I see lots of people, myself included, applying it on the outside of the material, instead of where the actual tool is cutting, if you get what I mean
I think you could make a much better job of explaining it than me mate
@@RalfyCustoms on the future to do list Ralfy 👍
I’m guilty as charged. Great job.
Thanks Jeff
Hi Jon, always enjoy your videos, although I'm not a machinist it is still good to watch people that are knowledgeable in their field, and the people in comments, thankyou.
Hi Philip, thanks for the comment and feedback, glad you enjoyed it mate. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, Great Information. Thanks for showing us. Regards from Australia.
Hi Dave, thanks for the comment, no problem 😊. I hope it helps a few people out. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, great informative video. I’m guilty of some of those bad practices and didn’t know any better, but I do now 😊
Hi John, thanks for the comment and feedback. Glad you found it useful mate. Cheers, Jon
Hello Jon,
A very interesting video and a great reminder of looking after your cutting tools, thank you.
Cheers.
Paul,,
Hi Paul, thanks for the comment and feedback mate, much appreciated. Cheers, Jon
Brilliant video Jon. I have been turning and generally machining for an obscenely long number of years and I have to compliment you on the most competent video I have seen on this forum. Every point you made is spot on. Constant surface speed is a minefield and I cringe when watching some of the home gamers ( and even in some of the widely viewed channels) perform. New subscriber, best wishes , Mal.
Hi Mal, thanks for the comment and great feedback. Welcome to the channel and I hope you will find the content interesting. I just hope this helps a few out thinking differently about how to look after carbide a bit better. Cheers, Jon
Thanks for sharing some of your knowledge jon. Always enjoy videos like this
Hi, thanks for the comment. Glad you enjoyed it and it's really the primary reason I do this stuff to try and pass some knowledge on before I forget it. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop the video is worth it’s weight in…… carbide lol. Thank for taking the time to make the content and sharing it with us all.
eyup John👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Great tips, and in depth look, i'm sure it will help many, i know a friend who has just bought a lathe and learning turning on a budget, and can't work out why he can't part off, went to have a look and every parting tip has a chip on the end, he say's he can't afford to keep buying them!!!, told him numerous times why!!!!!! but still not sinking in, so i've told him to buy a HSS blade🤔🤔.
Also i know a better way to save on inserts!!!!😂😂 don't use them!!🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 sorry could'nt resist!🤣🤣👍👍
see you next time
Cheers
Kev
Hi Kev, thanks for the comment. Yeah, it's always a fine line on carbide use. From my own experience, I would say you really need a lathe my size or bigger before you can use it properly. The problem is, lots of the new home hobbyists prefer the convenience of not having to grind HSS etc. I am now rekindling my passion for HSS on the Shaper, cheap as chips and lasts forever!! Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop curious that, people take weeks learning to turn but won't take ten minutes to learn to grind. I blame all the old books, and blindly followed later hobbyist books, that say/imply angles are critical for different materials when in the main they are not,
Great 👍👍👍
Good advice Jon. I usually use a plastic or paper shim when moving in for a touch-off, so I get within a couple of thou of contact as I feel the paper tighten. Then I spin up the machine and move in ultra-slowly for the last tiny bit. If I try to do it super-carefully with the spindle running all the time, it takes FOREVER. Otherwise I use a video microscope, which feels like a terrible cheat, but when your boring bar is only 1.5 mm diameter, a scope is useful. Not going to use a loupe because I'm scared of that damn great big chuck on the whirly thing being right next to my earhole. I have a plastic pot with foam in the bottom as a catcher when I loosen collets with end or face mills so if I'm a clumsy oaf, they just land in the foam
Hi Machining and Microwaves, thanks for the comment. Sounds like you are on top of it. Microscope is a great idea by the way, not a cheat at all. I have worked on big CNC machining centres where because of health and safety regulations, you can't get anywhere near the spindle (and I am talking within 20 feet). No issue in production, but for new program proving, it's a nightmare. I had video cameras fitted with live feeds to monitors next to the machines controller in the end. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop The microscope also provides some nice shots for vids
Thanks for the video
Thanks Frank
Great advice
Nicely done. You saved me some cash.
All the best
Dan
Hi Dan, thanks for the comment and feedback, glad you found it useful. Cheers, Jon
Excellent tips 👌 loved the video.
Great info Jon, been there and done all of that lol..great video, keep'um coming.
Hi Kentucky Trapper, thanks for the comment and feedback, much appreciated mate. Cheers, Jon
100% agreed, thank you
Nice one Jon, I'm guilty as charged with the cutter storage..😒Good tips and information...
ATB...
Hi Dean, thanks for the comment and feedback, glad you enjoyed it. Cheers, Jon
Quilty as charged :-) Having an abundant amount of end mills is a good thing, but I too have them laying in my storage box resting on each other. Life getts busy, and that old phrase "I'll make that end mill holder one day", Thx Jon, I got get it done, as Sammie would say (@@)!. Good tips, and yes cost has climbed to where we need to treat them as Gold! Bear.
Hi Bear, thanks for the comment and feedback. You are right about the prices, listen to Sammie's advice and get it done mate. Cheers, Jon
Thank you.
Lot of common sense there Mr Jon, thankyou for the factual advice, one thing that might be useful is what insert to use and for what application, cheers Jon 🇺🇦🤗👴🏻👍
Hi Terry, thanks for the comment and feedback. Now that suggestion is a minefield lol, but I will take it on board and maybe do a high level summary tips video in the future. Cheers, Jon
Wow!
Great bunch of tips!
Thank you! 😊
Thanks Arthur
@@jonsworkshop 🙂
Thanks Jon excellent info
Hi Philip, thanks for the comment and feedback, much appreciated. Cheers, Jon
Great video! I have been guilty of many of those things. I hate admitting it but I have to be honest!
Hi David, thanks for the comment. Lol, so have I
good video jon
Hi Tr, thanks for the comment.
Really useful, thanks.
No problem Andrew, glad you enjoyed. Cheers, Jon
Thanks for the advice Jon
(62 comments and 29 likes at the time I write this)
Hi Gr eg, thanks for the comment. Lol, the 60 number includes my replies so pretty much 100% from the community who are fantastic by the way. 😊. Cheers, Jon
Always enjoy and learn from your videos. I wonder if you could address a problem, I have seen on several, videos. That is the wandering of a drill bit when it first starts after center drilling. If this makes any sense. It seems, at least on video, the drill bit wanders off center when it first touches the material.
Oh, this is on lathes. Thanks for your efforts.
Hi Jerry, thanks for the comment and question. I vaguely remember covering this at a summary level only in an old video (have not a clue which one, sorry), but this is often a topic of some considerable debate in video comments. There are a few causes, and a few mitigations and fixes so worthy of a more detailed look. I will chalk it up on the to do list for a future tips video. Cheers, Jon
The first place to start with that is the sharpening. Hand sharpening is fast and there are many out there who will say you can achieve great results with practice but the centering of the edges is critical. There's no shame in using a jig if you're not happy with the cuts. The tailings tell the story. Even on both sides and you are there. Move on to the tailstock alignment.
Great tips....Thank you.....
Hi Hogan62, you are welcome. Cheers, Jon
You have become one of my top guys on machine shop info..Rustinox ...Mr Pete....as well..I am a retired 35 year Millwright and a basement machinist for about 15 years. All ways on the look out for sharp machinists Who give solid info.Thanks again Jon.....Phil... @@jonsworkshop
Very good info Jon. For myself I use HSS on almost everything. Because I have a lot of it, and have learned how to grind it. plus surface finish is better in most cases for the work I do. thanks
Hi Randy, thanks for the comment. There's nothing wrong with HSS, I am just getting back into it again now on the shaper, it's very cheap, lasts ages, easy to grind etc. The problem is, Chinese carbide is so cheap now that there are lots of new starts in the hobby that have never been either taught or learnt to grind HSS and prefer the convenience of carbide etc. Shame really because for small machines, HSS is much better overall. Cheers, Jon
One day I'm going to link up my cross-slide DRO channel to the speed control on my inverter drive so I can do constant surface speed cuts in CNC lathe style where I'm doing finish cuts with no further processing. That would be a neat little project in fact. Hmmmm
Hi Machining and Microwaves, thanks for the comment. Please follow through with that one, that would be a fantastic project 'hard wired G96' 😊. Cheers, Jon
You need an ELS and VFD, I love mine. I still think manual work is good with the tactile feedback but for basic mundane operations simple automation makes life easier.
I think a constant feed is fine, no need to slow down, just don't speed up. The material may move by the cutter slower as you go in, but you are still moving in the same amount per revolution so you are not going to miss any material
@@mattphilip4595 The problem is maintaining the surface speed to keep the finish consistent and the chipload constant. As the cutting diameter reduces, the surface speed drops linearly with the cutting radius, so chip formation and tool flex varies, leading to a few micrometres of error in flatness and significant banding in the finish where the microscopic plastic deformation zone transitions into brittle fracture and cold stringy chips instead of the almost fluid flow and "Cs and sixes" of ideal chip formation. So you definitely need to speed up rotation inversely to the radius of cut to get best results.
Ah yes. Speeding up the motor indeed is correct. I misread and thought you were just slowing down the tool feed.
Hi Jon, very useful video. Thanks. I usually put a rag or something underneath my mill spindle to catch the end mill, should it fall out. My mill doesn't have a spindle lock, so I need two hands to undo the collet chuck. Most of the time there's enough friction that they don't just fall out. Except that time I had a 20mm carbide roughing mill that had just been sharpened, and I didn't put anything underneath 🤬🤬
Hi Olly, thanks for the comment and feedback, glad you enjoyed it and found it useful. Spindle lock seems like a good project 🤔🤔, just saying! 😊. Cheers, Jon
what's your thoughts on taking light cuts with carbide especially on the lathe?
Hi Paul, thanks for the comment and question. A lot depends on material and insert type etc, but I covered this in depth in my Workshop Tips video called 'Hitting Your Sizes - balanced cuts', worth a watch to get my thoughts on your question (saves me writing it all out) 😊. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop cheers. I did see it, but I've forgotten, I will have another squint at it.
you want save all the old carbide too i tookton
Hi Secret six. Thanks for the comment and suggestion. I have a box for that very thing👍😉. Cheers, Jon
Good advice but nothing new to me, maybe for the newbes.
Hello Jon not a machineing comment but the united nations are looking for new diplomats if you're interested
Ha, I don't think they should ask me lol