Clash of the Titans - Should it be upgraded to 9b?
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- Опубликовано: 3 дек 2023
- Jakob Schubert and @steghiso meet at Nassereith in Tirol to check out the @alexandermegos8129 test-piece "Clash of the Titans" which he graded 9a+ after making the first ascent in 2017. Jakob has repeatedly tried the route over the last years and after finally sending it he believes the route deserves an upgrade but seeks another opinion by Stefano first ...
Realized by @alpsolutpictures3547 and @supportatthecrag 
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"Maybe i'm really weak"
- Jakob Schubert after sending another 9b
"it s super good the next one" proceeds to a tre finger shitty sloper 🤣
Thanks for the honest contribution. I am looking forward to Jakob's continuation on Seb's 9c DNA.
I wish for Seb in particular that his routes, especially these from other top climbers, would be recognised.
I completely agree. It would be good to see others repeat some of Seb Bouin's routes.
Considering there is maybe 10 people on Earth who can climb more than one 9b, the grading is almost an impossible task
Awesome video about the many intricacies of grading at this level. There are so many variables, it's cool that the most elite climbers seem to approach grading more like a friendly conversation these days.
"Just jump, it's super good up there!" said Spiderman to Venom
Stefano downgrading Alex’s 9c :), Stefano upgrading Alex’s 9a+ :|
I pay internet for this. Thanks!!
The world’s two greatest down graders are up grading a route? Is this April Fools Day?
3. Adam thought its 9b too ;)... so its probably 9b+ :D
When Stefano said something along the lines of Jakob is known for being a brutal downgrader I was like ... are you talking about yourself lol
We still haven't heard from Seb Bouin though...
As we’ve learned in the modern day, maybe an A2
Amazing looking line and moves! Megos seems to have been in incredible shape on this trip, he also did jungle boogie in Ceuse soon after in 3 goes when most people say it’s hard 9a+ . Thanks for the honest discussion. Crazy it took you longer than any other 9a+ / 9b …
good stuff! thanks Jakob for giving these insights
Awesome! Strong AF! Great to see you working with Stefano!
awesome Video! That route really looks super hard and sustained and if you struggled so much, that also means a lot!
Thanks for the great video!
Humility is something to be celebrated. I appreciate the way you approach the subject and the way you chose to discuss it.
Excellent collab
Great video, like your honesty Jakob
Grading has always had and will always have a certain level of subjectivity. Given that, for me, at the end, the grade that it is important for me is the one that I give to a route I send. Sometimes it can be higher than on the guides and sometimes it can be lower. It doesn’t make any good to me to self-delude or to underestimate my own achievements.
Love when routes get upgraded!
very insightful and interesting
9:16 really weak at that style💀
tried another route there, sharing the first half with cot, quite happy to see even stefano struggle on those moves😅
This was a great video
JAKOB ADAM AND ALEX UPLOADING AT THE SAME TIME
Two of my favorite pro climbers.
Looks hard hard. Climbing world need more options about this, Adam can go for it!
So Megos' routes, no matter what he says, can be assumed to be 9b/+? 😄
Maybe they want Alex to try to find another 9c possibility
i really i enjoy this type of videos. it's allways a pleasure to see a hard attempts but i dont't understand why would you cut at the most interesting part while clipping the rope? like at 9:50 Jakob is fighting to stay on the wall, cut and at 9:54 he is already clipped
❤❤❤
theCrag
"Maybe I'm really weak at that style." ....
Grades grades GRADES and again grades…
5.9 at my gym.
Ghisolfi came along? So it's 8b now?
Hey Jakob,
is there a BIG video coming up?
Probably brought the "wrong" man for this task. After Stefano has been on it it will be 8c+ 😂
When sending a 9c justcwasn't enough to win the 9b-counter? ;)
Why is upgrading such a big deal?
If all beta is known, too soft or too hard grades would mathematically appear with the same rate. Still, people downgrade faster than they upgrade... and it all has to do with ego. Some guys are known for sandbagging, look at most Ramon Puigblanque FAs, look at Adam Ondra's Czech routes, but that's just explained as sandbagged.
Downgrading is explained by easier beta, but upgrading looks like a humiliation for oneself - "the other guy is stronger than me"... - which it's not. The other guy was just wrong, that's all. We all make mistakes.
Let Seb Bouin come he’ll do it in 3 days.
好厉害
They are only foot and hand holds if you're 50% spider or gecko 😆😆😆
Making up for the downgrades
Megos and Ondra on wooden holds indoors while you out there crushing with Stefano
? Megos is projecting next level shit at the red bruh
@@chazottyeah but he just uploaded an epic video with a lead route made with wooden holds
9b s are rather rare in Tirol
So no 9b took you this much effort. Why is it not a 9b/+ oder 9b+ then? :P
Grades arent that important. There is only drama in the high grades because its in the public eye. You cant distill a climb down to a single grade. Certain climbs might not suit some people's style so it could be harder for some people than others.
💯 👌
Grades are important. Sucks to get to the 6th pitch on something and discover you are way out your depth. Also important for picking out single pitch stuff too obvious but wanted to go with an obvious bad situation
I always liked the old British grades with a grade for overall difficulty and then one for the difficulty of the hardest mode. This then got combined with sports grading quite effectively, such that 8a 6C would probably have no more than one hard move and that near a rest, while 8a 6B would be more sustained with several moves in a row at the lower grade. Hence, Ben Moon's definition of 8c as "when 6C is no longer that hard and 6B is approaching a rest".
Titanes
2 ascents in 6 years. 9B is a no brainer.
Yeah Jakib, that's your answer right there, you are just really weak 🤣
Also wenn 9c geht ,,,,müsste 9a+ ja fast onsight gehen…😮
Great video and discussion. Did you resend it for the video?
It brought up the question: what's the hardest route you've send twice or more?
I think he didn't resend it, 'cos when he starts the crux the carabiner is unclipped, but after, when he goes to the "super good one" as Jakob said to Stefano, he's clipped.