What an incredible achievement! I just want to say though... it's a little sad that people always mention Megos' first ascent, but not the fact that the route was bolted by Chris Sharma. I even read an article just now that called it "Alex Megos's Perfecto Mundo"... I think even though Sharma hasn't sent these 9b+ routes, I think he deserves some credit for imagining them in the first place. It was his vision that created the landscape these younger climbers are working in. I know Sharma wouldn't want to take the spotlight off these climbers' achievements, but I also think he deserves a callout for having the vision to see what they could aspire to!
I agree, the battle alex megos went through and his determination is incredible, but the only reason they are there is chris sharma!! Love to all the athletes who saw this as doable
Jakob Schubert Breezing past the Crux of Perfecto Mundo 9b+ and only then getting pumped and falling "why do I suck so unbelievably hard". Me getting pumped while doing the third clip on a 6b "Yay, I'm pretty good". Man, these people... hard to believe they are human.
@@kubaBST Adam Ondra's "Silence" and Alex Megos' "Bibliography" are both proposed 9c. No second ascent of either to confirm grade. (But both have climbed 9b+ and say these are harder)
Domen is such a class act! This level of empathy, respect, and overall human decency, towards what could be perceived as a mere competitor in another sport, is one of thing that makes climbing such a special sport to me.
I agree. It isnt really a competition between people, it is just between you and the wall, and about being more then you were. It is a really cool thing to see having come from playing sports competitively for so long.
I think climbers should always mention the setter before the people who climbed it first. Setters are the reason they are able to climb the route. Personally I think that Jakob should have said" I am trying this 9b+ called Perfecto Mundo, bolted in 2009/2010 by Chris Sharma " then talk about the first and second ascent. I think mentioning about who bolted the route and the year it was created is part of the history of the route and a sign of showing respect to those who dedicated time and effort to put it together so that others can just get there and climb it. In my humble personal opinion I think the focus should be first on the person who bolts the route and the year, then who climbs it. I like knowing the history of the whole process. Even more important if it is a route that has taken you beyond your limits. Someone has actually made that possible for you by bolting the route.
I was wondering that while watching....who puts the bolts down? Who decides where the bolts will go? Who decides where a route should go? How is a route bolted?
No matter what grade you climb, the mental battle and the excitement you feel after being able to complete a route are the same for everyone. This is the one thing I like about climbing - the last two minutes of this video could have been me after my first 6b.
One of my favorite climbing videos. Light years far from climbing this level of difficulty but very familiar with the dreadful mixture of pressure, exhaustion and anticipation of failure that grinds you down. Almost cried when Jakob finally sent. Such an incredible battle.
If you ask me this is the worst part about the climbing community. There are way too many people who don't belay properly at every climbing level and don't care about it either. And then they often even go on to teach others how to belay. I think this is very irresponsible and pros should be more aware of their responsibility to promote proper belaying technique.
The problem is the Grigri is not ergonomically designed. The easiest way to use it is not the safest. It's not a good device if thousands of climbers all over the world use it the "wrong" way.
nice Video! what a beauty of a route - big fight. Mentally and physically - now I have enough motivation to do my quarantine home workout. Thanks J. Schubert - one of the best in the game!
He's using the "Gaswerk" method. Named after a Zurich climbing hall, where it was pioneered. With one of your hands you enclose the part of the GriGri that would normally flip up and lock up the rope in case of a fall. Since the pressure you can apply with your hand will never withstand the force of the rope pulling upward, you get the benefit of both - fast rope payout when belaying a lead and the security of the GriGri. It should be noted though, that even the Gaswerk-method requires one hand on the break rope at all times. So technically, he's not doing it right...
the sheer will, stamina, passion, and unbelievable strength these guys and girls exude is true superhuman traits! fell in love with climbing at almost 50 yrs old. wish i would’ve picked this up in my teens😔
As someone who loves climbing im wo thankful for Jakob, Adam, Alex, Steffano, Margo, Tommy, Chris and basically everyone who keep pushing the limits of what humans can do. Its beautiful to watch, and even though i'll never be able to climb this good myself, it majes me super happy to see all of these guys and girls pushing harder and harder. Climbing is the best thing to ever happen to me ❤️❤️❤️
Awesome video. I am just a boulderer, but watching an artist like you sport climbing such a beautiful route is amazing too. Nice footage and also nice showing the process and not just the send!
Congratulations, Jakob! Climbing partners that get emotionally involved in your own projects are the best. Loved the drone footage of the upper slabby section.
David Friedman it is called a GriGri and is has assisted braking. That said that is awful belaying and you should always always have your hand on the brake rope.
He is such a great guy, after sending and getting out of the bushes he even brought some trash out. That’s what it’s all about don’t just care about yourself but others and the nature too !
I'm swiss and have no problem understanding german and austrian, even some dialects are no problem. But when Jakob was talking it was kinda hard to understand.
@@5upl1an Of course he's not at 9b+ level. Only 5 people in the world can say that they are. But he has redpointed 9b back in 2013 so it's not like he's far off.
3:16 what type of belay device is that? I’m pretty sure it’s unsafe to let go of the brake side of the rope. Edit: Probably a Grigri, at least in the other shots it is. The manufacturer explicitly states “Always hold the brake side of the rope” and there have been accidents (Ashima Shiraishi being the most famous).
@@leoingson ^this. they should really care to NOT work stuff like this in a highly polished video like this imho. they have a role model to keep up and 3:16 is a prime example how NOT to do this.
@@leoingson Yeah-yeah-yeah... this is like listening to a guy that has just passed his drivers license test telling Tommi Mäkinen that left-foot braking is wrong. It's just embarrassing to listen to. Please stop.
Grande Jakob! Siempre es un placer verte escalar. Como anécdota graciosa, un amigo y yo decimos que te pareces a uno de Los Morancos, unos humoristas españoles jajajaj saludos y enhorabuena!!!
i yet havent seen a lot of people belay correctly with a grigri in person. I have the feeling that the line "its guaranteed to hold" makes people careless. No matter what rock or gym i come to and see someone belay in a weird way; they are using a grigri.
@@lyssalud6781 i have had to tell people about it and holden the rope for people before cause ive seen it so i can explain what they did wrong when the climber was down
These are professional athletes they are belaying better than any one here so shut up and don’t say heee neeedddssss toooo learn belay They know what they are doing
Isn't it strange that none of the guys who have sent this route have sent any of the 9b+ or 9c established by Ondra? La Dura Dura was 2012... It just makes it seem like this one is easier than those
Thinking back, Ondra took years to send each of his 9b+ projects, but it looks like Schubert sent this in 1 trip? No doubt he's an incredibly strong climber, but 1 trip sends don't seem like world class projects really. Megos couldn't send Jumbo Love in 1 trip and that's an easier route supposedly. I'm just interested to see any of these guys send the previously established 9b+ routes to compare difficulty. Certainly La Dura Dura and Change are world class routes worthy of their time.
What an incredible achievement! I just want to say though... it's a little sad that people always mention Megos' first ascent, but not the fact that the route was bolted by Chris Sharma. I even read an article just now that called it "Alex Megos's Perfecto Mundo"... I think even though Sharma hasn't sent these 9b+ routes, I think he deserves some credit for imagining them in the first place. It was his vision that created the landscape these younger climbers are working in. I know Sharma wouldn't want to take the spotlight off these climbers' achievements, but I also think he deserves a callout for having the vision to see what they could aspire to!
I agree, the battle alex megos went through and his determination is incredible, but the only reason they are there is chris sharma!! Love to all the athletes who saw this as doable
Jakob Schubert Breezing past the Crux of Perfecto Mundo 9b+ and only then getting pumped and falling "why do I suck so unbelievably hard". Me getting pumped while doing the third clip on a 6b "Yay, I'm pretty good". Man, these people... hard to believe they are human.
😂
me getting pumped and sweaty while watching that video...
@@chaosengine4597 me to i almost wanted to chalk my hands
One of Übermenschen)))) cooool
I watched and my palms were wet
Who is seeing this video after wathing adam ondra's tries ? Gj Jakob !!
interesting that he did not use any of the kneebars Adam used.
@@peterdorsa4938 Neither did Alex.
I'm seeing this before Adam's tries.
ME
@@peterdorsa4938 yes and I think its harder without... cotation is the same ? Im not sure at all...
5:39 *Falls on a route graded second hardest in the entire world* "why do I suck so unbelievably hard"
Yeah I chuckled to myself when he said that, to be at that level of climbing...
I was thinking the same thing! Give yourself a break Jacob. But yeah it's how he vents after falling i guess
the same reaction as Adam Ondra has...
what is the hardest?
@@kubaBST Adam Ondra's "Silence" and Alex Megos' "Bibliography" are both proposed 9c. No second ascent of either to confirm grade. (But both have climbed 9b+ and say these are harder)
Domen is such a class act! This level of empathy, respect, and overall human decency, towards what could be perceived as a mere competitor in another sport, is one of thing that makes climbing such a special sport to me.
I agree. It isnt really a competition between people, it is just between you and the wall, and about being more then you were. It is a really cool thing to see having come from playing sports competitively for so long.
I think climbers should always mention the setter before the people who climbed it first. Setters are the reason they are able to climb the route. Personally I think that Jakob should have said" I am trying this 9b+ called Perfecto Mundo, bolted in 2009/2010 by Chris Sharma " then talk about the first and second ascent. I think mentioning about who bolted the route and the year it was created is part of the history of the route and a sign of showing respect to those who dedicated time and effort to put it together so that others can just get there and climb it. In my humble personal opinion I think the focus should be first on the person who bolts the route and the year, then who climbs it. I like knowing the history of the whole process. Even more important if it is a route that has taken you beyond your limits. Someone has actually made that possible for you by bolting the route.
Interesting point
I was wondering that while watching....who puts the bolts down? Who decides where the bolts will go? Who decides where a route should go? How is a route bolted?
This is actually standard practice in Australia! I agree, it should be more widespread around the world.
Indeed but stop calling them a 'setter' wtf we're not in a gym
@@shawntrevordaniel semantics , just that. Glad you get the point though.
Good guy jakob: Picks up trash from the crag after sending 9b+ :D
absolutely! nice that u mention it :)
Or maybe he smashed a box of salami as he was going down? :D
Yeah great that he´s explaining moves, while holding a charcuterie plastic packaging.
13:18
Hahaha, what a f...king legend
No matter what grade you climb, the mental battle and the excitement you feel after being able to complete a route are the same for everyone. This is the one thing I like about climbing - the last two minutes of this video could have been me after my first 6b.
One of my favorite climbing videos. Light years far from climbing this level of difficulty but very familiar with the dreadful mixture of pressure, exhaustion and anticipation of failure that grinds you down. Almost cried when Jakob finally sent. Such an incredible battle.
Gotta love the belay technique at @3:16 lol
If you ask me this is the worst part about the climbing community. There are way too many people who don't belay properly at every climbing level and don't care about it either. And then they often even go on to teach others how to belay. I think this is very irresponsible and pros should be more aware of their responsibility to promote proper belaying technique.
What on earth.
he is the reason why so many hate Grigris, even got fear of them
The problem is the Grigri is not ergonomically designed. The easiest way to use it is not the safest. It's not a good device if thousands of climbers all over the world use it the "wrong" way.
@@xyrandus lol
@@xyrandus I personally love the Grigri and I think if you use it correctly it is a great belaydevice.
You don't really appreciate how overhung it is until the camera zooms out. Incredible stuff.
my respect the mental battle was the hard part, but powering through such a process is even more impressive
nice Video! what a beauty of a route - big fight. Mentally and physically - now I have enough motivation to do my quarantine home workout. Thanks J. Schubert - one of the best in the game!
Jakob´s hair is absolutely on point. As always. Nice climbing, too!
I rewatched your video. Still a pleasure to see you climbing. Thanks! Wish you the best for 2021. Take care
Awesome, have been on the lookout for this one since you sent it! The belay at 3:16 made my skin crawl though :P
it was perfectly ok:-/
He's using the "Gaswerk" method. Named after a Zurich climbing hall, where it was pioneered. With one of your hands you enclose the part of the GriGri that would normally flip up and lock up the rope in case of a fall. Since the pressure you can apply with your hand will never withstand the force of the rope pulling upward, you get the benefit of both - fast rope payout when belaying a lead and the security of the GriGri.
It should be noted though, that even the Gaswerk-method requires one hand on the break rope at all times. So technically, he's not doing it right...
the sheer will, stamina, passion, and unbelievable strength these guys and girls exude is true superhuman traits! fell in love with climbing at almost 50 yrs old. wish i would’ve picked this up in my teens😔
One of the best climbing videos I've every watched. Thank you for the story and inspiration!
I recomend Rot Punkt then, where Alex Megos climbs it ;)
So beautiful. And the last moments of the ascent with the camera moving away is just perfect, just right for it. This is incredible.
It is such a perfect video about the very spirit of rock climbing. Cannot wait till the time I will go out and do it again.
GG Jakob! Amazing effort man. Thanks, helps a lot!
As someone who loves climbing im wo thankful for Jakob, Adam, Alex, Steffano, Margo, Tommy, Chris and basically everyone who keep pushing the limits of what humans can do. Its beautiful to watch, and even though i'll never be able to climb this good myself, it majes me super happy to see all of these guys and girls pushing harder and harder. Climbing is the best thing to ever happen to me ❤️❤️❤️
@4:44 you can totally see that he is on his limit
Yup, the shoulders gave it out :)
Hell yeah! Nice job dude! Stoked you have a RUclips channel. Subscribed!
Awesome video. I am just a boulderer, but watching an artist like you sport climbing such a beautiful route is amazing too. Nice footage and also nice showing the process and not just the send!
Congratulations, Jakob!
Climbing partners that get emotionally involved in your own projects are the best.
Loved the drone footage of the upper slabby section.
Congratulations! It really comes through how hard you worked for this.
Amazing... Mammut and Jakob is the perfect combo😉 glad you made the send on that brutal route!🔥🤘❤
Jakob: a truly top bloke. A great role model for youngsters today.
See Domen so emotionally proved for his friend failing is so beautiful.
Hi Jakob, mega video! Congrats for the send - well done!
sick sent! I think that sending on the very last day of the trip is a universal law in hard climbing :D
Awesome and impressive job!!
Amazing video! This is a well of inspiration
I love everything about your attitude! Way to kill it
3:15 is no brake hand needed with that device?
David Friedman it is called a GriGri and is has assisted braking. That said that is awful belaying and you should always always have your hand on the brake rope.
Bro only climbers unterstand that it’s hard too unterstand when you not part of it:)
no, not with good climbers
Amazing video+ keep it up Jakob, i will be rooting for you in Tokyo!!!
Such a cool video! Well done guys! Really enjoyed watching this, would love to see more like it
What a fight! Very well done, mate! Congrats and keep up with it :D
13:20 thanks for picking it up:)
Absolutely brilliant. The climbing. The vid. The route. The psyche. 👏👌
Great ascend Jakob . Hats off !!!!!!
What a stunning crag
He is such a great guy, after sending and getting out of the bushes he even brought some trash out. That’s what it’s all about don’t just care about yourself but others and the nature too !
Imagine what he could do if he had a beanie and no shirt
Exactly what i needed to motivate me this morning!
Jako is the class act.
Amazing job Jakob!!! Happy for ya
Last day best day!! Wow!! Congratsss
congratulation Jakob! nice job. All my respect!
What a man?That's incredible!😵
so glad u can use gri gri like he doies on 3:16... gotta show this to my left handed dad, that pros do it like that as well.
That’s huge. Incredible work!
5:59 hahaha that tyrolean dialect... love it.
I'm swiss and have no problem understanding german and austrian, even some dialects are no problem. But when Jakob was talking it was kinda hard to understand.
Is this the only 9b+ which Adam Ondra haven't climbed? Extremely impressed by his perseverance!
I remember the times when only Sharma and Ondra could creep up to this level of difficulty. WOW
Sounds like magnus in the background 😀
I don't think, i didn't see a shirtless guy
@@scytaletleilax A little bit of hate maybe around here 😂
@@arnaudlf2486 As much as I love Magnus, he was never and (considering his age) probably will never be on this level.
@@5upl1an Of course he's not at 9b+ level. Only 5 people in the world can say that they are. But he has redpointed 9b back in 2013 so it's not like he's far off.
OMG I know right! I kept hearing that voice, and thinking WTF is that Magnus?
Cool vid. What a battle to get this one!
You're awesome Schubert! Congrats mate!
Thanks for the inspiration!
Awesome Woody's portable hangboard! Bloody good boards
Jakob seems such a committed guy and Domen so supportive
3:16 what type of belay device is that? I’m pretty sure it’s unsafe to let go of the brake side of the rope.
Edit: Probably a Grigri, at least in the other shots it is. The manufacturer explicitly states “Always hold the brake side of the rope” and there have been accidents (Ashima Shiraishi being the most famous).
What happened to Ashima ?
@@thewateringwiz7118
she had had a 15m ground fall in 2016, when her father made a belaying mistake
so cute....
Where is the brake hand at 3:16/3:17?? It's not like he is loosely grasping the rope while feeding slack, he is just feeding rope one handed!
Imagine being the guy at 11:58 climbing right next to Jakob Schubert making an incredible ascent :D
3:16 can someone tell me why he's not holding the dead end? the belay device?
Congrats, awesome video!!! :)
the belay at 3:16!!!
lmfao
Was about to point it out.
I wonder how all those pros actually survive. A LOT of them belay like sh.t, and they fall. Often.
9:14 also risky.
@@leoingson ^this.
they should really care to NOT work stuff like this in a highly polished video like this imho.
they have a role model to keep up and 3:16 is a prime example how NOT to do this.
@@leoingson Yeah-yeah-yeah... this is like listening to a guy that has just passed his drivers license test telling Tommi Mäkinen that left-foot braking is wrong. It's just embarrassing to listen to. Please stop.
@@jokkes1595 Dude. It's Tommy Räikkönen.
I’m from Indonesia and hope someday i can climbing in abroad 🌈
Indonesia has got to have great spots! I've been to amazing places in Indonesia like volcanos and waterfalls, there MUST be allot of climbing routes!!
Nice, congratulations!
Anyone know the music used throughout the video?
7 months ago? And it got to me only now?!?
We have to talk YT alg...
Super, Jakob!
Determination at it's finest.
allez, come on, allez come on, allez come on, allez come on, yeeeeeeees
So annoying 😂
venga
yeah, that really wouldn't help me focus, yet achieve anything
Grande Jakob! Siempre es un placer verte escalar. Como anécdota graciosa, un amigo y yo decimos que te pareces a uno de Los Morancos, unos humoristas españoles jajajaj saludos y enhorabuena!!!
awesome:)
Btw: whats the Name of the song at the end of the video?
3:15 "great" belay technique there. (Dangerous)
it´s not, trust the people who climb;-)
@@krist.7419 it in every aspect is dangerous and horrible promoting
Fettes Gefällt mir aus Liechtenstein
Viel Erfolg für die Olympiade ❤
Looked so much easier than what Megos had to cope with... like he was practicing this one for weeks!!
great videography
5:58 Is that draw on an x4/ballnut? Why is it there 😂 did you use it to try the moves?
As long as Jakob wants it, he can always get it. That’s Jakob, so ambitious !
Belaying at 3:17 worse than ondra's. Sick route though!
Is that a ball nut below his top draw at 5:55?
3:16 why are he using the grigri wrong he should learn how to belay with the grigri before exsidants happens
Not only this, have a look on 3:21
i yet havent seen a lot of people belay correctly with a grigri in person. I have the feeling that the line "its guaranteed to hold" makes people careless. No matter what rock or gym i come to and see someone belay in a weird way; they are using a grigri.
@@mikafull i noticed that to
@@lyssalud6781 i have had to tell people about it and holden the rope for people before cause ive seen it so i can explain what they did wrong when the climber was down
These are professional athletes they are belaying better than any one here so shut up and don’t say heee neeedddssss toooo learn belay They know what they are doing
And now he has an Olympic medal!
Gratuliere. Weiter so.... Muas echt Der Wahnsinn sein sowas zu schaffen....Grüße aus der stmk....
The fact that Adam Ondra couldn't get there after a month of work (with horrendous conditions mostly to be fair) makes this all the more impressive.
That's true, even though Adam says, this route doesn't suit his style.
와우~ 정말 멋지네요~ 부럽습니다~ ㅎㅎ
Can anyone tell me the background music he is using?
Do I spot a micro camelot at 5:54 there? How come?
Not sure how steep it is? Skip to 12:51 for perspective.
Isn't it strange that none of the guys who have sent this route have sent any of the 9b+ or 9c established by Ondra? La Dura Dura was 2012... It just makes it seem like this one is easier than those
Thinking back, Ondra took years to send each of his 9b+ projects, but it looks like Schubert sent this in 1 trip? No doubt he's an incredibly strong climber, but 1 trip sends don't seem like world class projects really. Megos couldn't send Jumbo Love in 1 trip and that's an easier route supposedly. I'm just interested to see any of these guys send the previously established 9b+ routes to compare difficulty. Certainly La Dura Dura and Change are world class routes worthy of their time.
what’s the music at 6:32 ???
Shazam is your friend
Why's he holding an empty ham packet tho?
Likely litter
I dont see how you do the complete rute.
Gratuliere, Jakob! :)
Joo, the left quickdraw @5:47 is messed up
Whats the name of the sound?