Jakob Schubert - Perfecto Mundo 9b+
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- Join Jakob Schubert in his process of climbing the 9b+ route ‘Perfecto Mundo’ in the Spanish climbing mecca of Margalef.
After a very successful competition season and a successful qualification for the 2020 Olympic games, Jakob decided to skip the last few World Cups to give his all on the route. After a promising start the process turns into a mental battle…
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Domen is such a class act! This level of empathy, respect, and overall human decency, towards what could be perceived as a mere competitor in another sport, is one of thing that makes climbing such a special sport to me.
I agree. It isnt really a competition between people, it is just between you and the wall, and about being more then you were. It is a really cool thing to see having come from playing sports competitively for so long.
What an incredible achievement! I just want to say though... it's a little sad that people always mention Megos' first ascent, but not the fact that the route was bolted by Chris Sharma. I even read an article just now that called it "Alex Megos's Perfecto Mundo"... I think even though Sharma hasn't sent these 9b+ routes, I think he deserves some credit for imagining them in the first place. It was his vision that created the landscape these younger climbers are working in. I know Sharma wouldn't want to take the spotlight off these climbers' achievements, but I also think he deserves a callout for having the vision to see what they could aspire to!
I agree, the battle alex megos went through and his determination is incredible, but the only reason they are there is chris sharma!! Love to all the athletes who saw this as doable
No matter what grade you climb, the mental battle and the excitement you feel after being able to complete a route are the same for everyone. This is the one thing I like about climbing - the last two minutes of this video could have been me after my first 6b.
my respect the mental battle was the hard part, but powering through such a process is even more impressive
One of my favorite climbing videos. Light years far from climbing this level of difficulty but very familiar with the dreadful mixture of pressure, exhaustion and anticipation of failure that grinds you down. Almost cried when Jakob finally sent. Such an incredible battle.
Hell yeah! Nice job dude! Stoked you have a RUclips channel. Subscribed!
Amazing... Mammut and Jakob is the perfect combo😉 glad you made the send on that brutal route!🔥🤘❤
@4:44 you can totally see that he is on his limit
Yup, the shoulders gave it out :)
Such a cool video! Well done guys! Really enjoyed watching this, would love to see more like it
Exactly what i needed to motivate me this morning!
That’s huge. Incredible work!
You're awesome Schubert! Congrats mate!
And now he has an Olympic medal!
The fact that Adam Ondra couldn't get there after a month of work (with horrendous conditions mostly to be fair) makes this all the more impressive.
That's true, even though Adam says, this route doesn't suit his style.
Sick!!
Anyone know the music used throughout the video?
Yesss Jakob!!
5:58 Is that draw on an x4/ballnut? Why is it there 😂 did you use it to try the moves?
Not sure how steep it is? Skip to 12:51 for perspective.
Whats the name of the sound?
WHY? @Jakob Schubert
3:16 No hand on the rope
You are a role model for climbers... act as one!
FragCool role model for climbers, but not belayers 😂
don´t be ridiculous.... it´s a pro.
@@krist.7419 you know how pros die or get hurt, by stupid things like that
Just ask Thomas Huber who was to pro to tie a knot. Or maybe ask
Brad Gobright... ah right you can't ask him any more
Or... or... or...
@@FragCool I know Thomas Huber personally, we had good times together. I was an aficionado years ago and still am in a quieter way, so are most of my friends. Mistakes can happen with every sport, I have lost couple of friends climbing, but everyone is free to take his own decisions. Jakob Schubert knows very well what he´s doing, he doesn´t need your advice, but I´m sure he will be grateful for it ;-)
Amazing climber but shocking belayer 3:16 😨
He's Magnus midtbo 2.oh 🔥🔥🔥
He’s better than Magnus
magnus doesn´t climb that hard.
the dude yelling come on the whole time annoy anyone else?
Who is seeing this video after wathing adam ondra's tries ? Gj Jakob !!
interesting that he did not use any of the kneebars Adam used.
@@peterdorsa4938 Neither did Alex.
I'm seeing this before Adam's tries.
ME
@@peterdorsa4938 yes and I think its harder without... cotation is the same ? Im not sure at all...
5:39 *Falls on a route graded second hardest in the entire world* "why do I suck so unbelievably hard"
Yeah I chuckled to myself when he said that, to be at that level of climbing...
I was thinking the same thing! Give yourself a break Jacob. But yeah it's how he vents after falling i guess
the same reaction as Adam Ondra has...
what is the hardest?
@@kubaBST Adam Ondra's "Silence" and Alex Megos' "Bibliography" are both proposed 9c. No second ascent of either to confirm grade. (But both have climbed 9b+ and say these are harder)
Jakob Schubert Breezing past the Crux of Perfecto Mundo 9b+ and only then getting pumped and falling "why do I suck so unbelievably hard". Me getting pumped while doing the third clip on a 6b "Yay, I'm pretty good". Man, these people... hard to believe they are human.
😂
me getting pumped and sweaty while watching that video...
@@chaosengine4597 me to i almost wanted to chalk my hands
One of Übermenschen)))) cooool
I watched and my palms were wet
Good guy jakob: Picks up trash from the crag after sending 9b+ :D
absolutely! nice that u mention it :)
Or maybe he smashed a box of salami as he was going down? :D
Yeah great that he´s explaining moves, while holding a charcuterie plastic packaging.
13:18
Hahaha, what a f...king legend
Imagine what he could do if he had a beanie and no shirt
Gotta love the belay technique at @3:16 lol
If you ask me this is the worst part about the climbing community. There are way too many people who don't belay properly at every climbing level and don't care about it either. And then they often even go on to teach others how to belay. I think this is very irresponsible and pros should be more aware of their responsibility to promote proper belaying technique.
What on earth.
he is the reason why so many hate Grigris, even got fear of them
The problem is the Grigri is not ergonomically designed. The easiest way to use it is not the safest. It's not a good device if thousands of climbers all over the world use it the "wrong" way.
@@xyrandus lol
@@xyrandus I personally love the Grigri and I think if you use it correctly it is a great belaydevice.
You don't really appreciate how overhung it is until the camera zooms out. Incredible stuff.
Awesome, have been on the lookout for this one since you sent it! The belay at 3:16 made my skin crawl though :P
it was perfectly ok:-/
He's using the "Gaswerk" method. Named after a Zurich climbing hall, where it was pioneered. With one of your hands you enclose the part of the GriGri that would normally flip up and lock up the rope in case of a fall. Since the pressure you can apply with your hand will never withstand the force of the rope pulling upward, you get the benefit of both - fast rope payout when belaying a lead and the security of the GriGri.
It should be noted though, that even the Gaswerk-method requires one hand on the break rope at all times. So technically, he's not doing it right...
Sounds like magnus in the background 😀
I don't think, i didn't see a shirtless guy
@@scytaletleilax A little bit of hate maybe around here 😂
@@arnaudlf2486 As much as I love Magnus, he was never and (considering his age) probably will never be on this level.
@@5upl1an Of course he's not at 9b+ level. Only 5 people in the world can say that they are. But he has redpointed 9b back in 2013 so it's not like he's far off.
OMG I know right! I kept hearing that voice, and thinking WTF is that Magnus?
I think climbers should always mention the setter before the people who climbed it first. Setters are the reason they are able to climb the route. Personally I think that Jakob should have said" I am trying this 9b+ called Perfecto Mundo, bolted in 2009/2010 by Chris Sharma " then talk about the first and second ascent. I think mentioning about who bolted the route and the year it was created is part of the history of the route and a sign of showing respect to those who dedicated time and effort to put it together so that others can just get there and climb it. In my humble personal opinion I think the focus should be first on the person who bolts the route and the year, then who climbs it. I like knowing the history of the whole process. Even more important if it is a route that has taken you beyond your limits. Someone has actually made that possible for you by bolting the route.
Interesting point
I was wondering that while watching....who puts the bolts down? Who decides where the bolts will go? Who decides where a route should go? How is a route bolted?
This is actually standard practice in Australia! I agree, it should be more widespread around the world.
Indeed but stop calling them a 'setter' wtf we're not in a gym
@@shawntrevordaniel semantics , just that. Glad you get the point though.
See Domen so emotionally proved for his friend failing is so beautiful.
5:59 hahaha that tyrolean dialect... love it.
I'm swiss and have no problem understanding german and austrian, even some dialects are no problem. But when Jakob was talking it was kinda hard to understand.
I remember the times when only Sharma and Ondra could creep up to this level of difficulty. WOW
Jakob´s hair is absolutely on point. As always. Nice climbing, too!
nice Video! what a beauty of a route - big fight. Mentally and physically - now I have enough motivation to do my quarantine home workout. Thanks J. Schubert - one of the best in the game!
sick sent! I think that sending on the very last day of the trip is a universal law in hard climbing :D
3:15 is no brake hand needed with that device?
David Friedman it is called a GriGri and is has assisted braking. That said that is awful belaying and you should always always have your hand on the brake rope.
Bro only climbers unterstand that it’s hard too unterstand when you not part of it:)
no, not with good climbers
Is this the only 9b+ which Adam Ondra haven't climbed? Extremely impressed by his perseverance!
horrible belaying Jakob! You should be a rolemodel for all the climbers out there and in this video youre showing the worst possible mistakes.
13:20 thanks for picking it up:)
3:15 "great" belay technique there. (Dangerous)
it´s not, trust the people who climb;-)
@@krist.7419 it in every aspect is dangerous and horrible promoting
Awesome video. I am just a boulderer, but watching an artist like you sport climbing such a beautiful route is amazing too. Nice footage and also nice showing the process and not just the send!
I’m from Indonesia and hope someday i can climbing in abroad 🌈
Indonesia has got to have great spots! I've been to amazing places in Indonesia like volcanos and waterfalls, there MUST be allot of climbing routes!!
Belaying at 3:17 worse than ondra's. Sick route though!
What a fight! Very well done, mate! Congrats and keep up with it :D
Congratulations! It really comes through how hard you worked for this.
Let's just feed with no break hand on, yeah that's cool
Determination at it's finest.
Why's he holding an empty ham packet tho?
Likely litter
the belay at 3:16!!!
lmfao
Was about to point it out.
I wonder how all those pros actually survive. A LOT of them belay like sh.t, and they fall. Often.
9:14 also risky.
@@leoingson ^this.
they should really care to NOT work stuff like this in a highly polished video like this imho.
they have a role model to keep up and 3:16 is a prime example how NOT to do this.
@@leoingson Yeah-yeah-yeah... this is like listening to a guy that has just passed his drivers license test telling Tommi Mäkinen that left-foot braking is wrong. It's just embarrassing to listen to. Please stop.
@@jokkes1595 Dude. It's Tommy Räikkönen.
7 months ago? And it got to me only now?!?
We have to talk YT alg...
so glad u can use gri gri like he doies on 3:16... gotta show this to my left handed dad, that pros do it like that as well.
3:16 I am glad this guy is not belaying me 😆
Imagine being the guy at 11:58 climbing right next to Jakob Schubert making an incredible ascent :D
allez, come on, allez come on, allez come on, allez come on, yeeeeeeees
So annoying 😂
venga
yeah, that really wouldn't help me focus, yet achieve anything
3:16 why are he using the grigri wrong he should learn how to belay with the grigri before exsidants happens
Not only this, have a look on 3:21
i yet havent seen a lot of people belay correctly with a grigri in person. I have the feeling that the line "its guaranteed to hold" makes people careless. No matter what rock or gym i come to and see someone belay in a weird way; they are using a grigri.
@@mikafull i noticed that to
@@lyssalud6781 i have had to tell people about it and holden the rope for people before cause ive seen it so i can explain what they did wrong when the climber was down
These are professional athletes they are belaying better than any one here so shut up and don’t say heee neeedddssss toooo learn belay They know what they are doing
One of the best climbing videos I've every watched. Thank you for the story and inspiration!
I recomend Rot Punkt then, where Alex Megos climbs it ;)
I rewatched your video. Still a pleasure to see you climbing. Thanks! Wish you the best for 2021. Take care
Where is the brake hand at 3:16/3:17?? It's not like he is loosely grasping the rope while feeding slack, he is just feeding rope one handed!
I love everything about your attitude! Way to kill it
So much footage when he fails and we can't even get the whole video when he sends it. That sucks !
Jako is the class act.
It is such a perfect video about the very spirit of rock climbing. Cannot wait till the time I will go out and do it again.
Congratulations, Jakob!
Climbing partners that get emotionally involved in your own projects are the best.
Loved the drone footage of the upper slabby section.
Amazing video+ keep it up Jakob, i will be rooting for you in Tokyo!!!
GG Jakob! Amazing effort man. Thanks, helps a lot!
Jakob: a truly top bloke. A great role model for youngsters today.
Isn't it strange that none of the guys who have sent this route have sent any of the 9b+ or 9c established by Ondra? La Dura Dura was 2012... It just makes it seem like this one is easier than those
Thinking back, Ondra took years to send each of his 9b+ projects, but it looks like Schubert sent this in 1 trip? No doubt he's an incredibly strong climber, but 1 trip sends don't seem like world class projects really. Megos couldn't send Jumbo Love in 1 trip and that's an easier route supposedly. I'm just interested to see any of these guys send the previously established 9b+ routes to compare difficulty. Certainly La Dura Dura and Change are world class routes worthy of their time.
Amazing video! This is a well of inspiration
as a Tyrolean it‘s so funny to hear Jakob use the same swear words as I do when i fall 7a
beyond disgusted with his poor belaying technique
Yeah-yeah-yeah... this is like listening to a guy that has just passed his drivers license test telling Tommi Mäkinen that left-foot braking is wrong. It's just embarrassing to listen to. Please stop.
@@jokkes1595 Not true. It's good that people call out wrong belaying technique even to pros. Just because they're pros doesn't mean they don't have to care about proper belaying.
so cute....
와우~ 정말 멋지네요~ 부럽습니다~ ㅎㅎ
Congrats, awesome video!!! :)
"Wieso pumpts mi so brutal des gibts ja net" XD haha kann nimma, lol :D
Absolutely brilliant. The climbing. The vid. The route. The psyche. 👏👌
I used to climb in the early 90's, and it was awesome, but there were so many "elite" climbers that were real shipheads, and d*ckheads, that I knew personally. The rivalry at most crags and gyms was awful . I love JS - he and Adam, Seb Alex and Stef are REAL ambassadors for the climbing community. Also throw in Nalle, and Shawn and crew.....almost all of the well known 9B+/V17 climbers are all so nice, and help each other.
Awesome and impressive job!!
Schön das ich auch das Geschrei verstehe🤣🤐👌🏼
Last day best day!! Wow!! Congratsss
Heast Jakob, dir ist sicher bewusst, dass du ein Vorbild für viele Kletterer bist. Leute schauen sich von dir ab, wie du sicherst. "Na, wenns der Jokl a so mocht, wird des scho passen...". Es passieren unnötig viele Unfälle genau durch so einen laschen Umgang mit Gefahren. Selbst wenn du so (un)sicherst, solltest du das auf keinen Fall auch noch präsentieren. Von dir würd ich mich definitiv nicht sichern lassen!
Du würdest auch sicher nicht in den Genuss kommen, von ihm gesichert zu werden!
the sheer will, stamina, passion, and unbelievable strength these guys and girls exude is true superhuman traits! fell in love with climbing at almost 50 yrs old. wish i would’ve picked this up in my teens😔
3:10 did anyone else see that belay technique 😂😂
First, I want to say that I am no where near an expert at sport climbing. I’m sure there are many factors that I am not aware of. But if this route is 9b+, how is “Silence” only graded at 9c. The gap in difficulty seems like more than a single grade to me. Am I just wrong in thinking this?
As someone who loves climbing im wo thankful for Jakob, Adam, Alex, Steffano, Margo, Tommy, Chris and basically everyone who keep pushing the limits of what humans can do. Its beautiful to watch, and even though i'll never be able to climb this good myself, it majes me super happy to see all of these guys and girls pushing harder and harder. Climbing is the best thing to ever happen to me ❤️❤️❤️
3:16
Well, apparently we've got another perfect example of good climber does not equal good belayer right here. Doing basically everything wrong that you could do wrong handling a grigri (luckily exept inserting the rope the wrong way).
GJ on joining the 9b+-Club! But please try to work on your belaying-skills.. That rope behind the device ALWAYS belongs into your safe hands, and someone with your gripstrenght should NEVER wrap his whole hand around the device, as you could lock it open in a moment of panic. These things are taught because of learnings from accidents that have happened. So please consider getting an update on your belaying.
COooOL
je fais de l'escalade depuis 40 ans mais pour moi ces exploits n'en sont pas ce sont de tres bons gymnastes, ils sont bien foutus , mais a peu prés tout.
So beautiful. And the last moments of the ascent with the camera moving away is just perfect, just right for it. This is incredible.
He is such a great guy, after sending and getting out of the bushes he even brought some trash out. That’s what it’s all about don’t just care about yourself but others and the nature too !
Grande Jakob! Siempre es un placer verte escalar. Como anécdota graciosa, un amigo y yo decimos que te pareces a uno de Los Morancos, unos humoristas españoles jajajaj saludos y enhorabuena!!!
What a stunning crag
Hi Jakob, mega video! Congrats for the send - well done!
Nice!
The first ascent was from Chris Sharma, Megos was second. Otherwise, awesome video !
Edit: Not true
Incorrect. Megos did the first (free) ascent of this route.
Sharma was projecting it but never sent. Had kids and opened a climbing gym instead. He identified it as a hard project and opened it to others, and thought it could be 9b+. All the other 9b+ in the world have been established by Ondra and only 1 has been repeated by Sharma. The rest are unrepeated.
@@chazott Ohhhh good to know thanks !
Make a collab with Magnus midtbø :) Great Video
Cool vid. What a battle to get this one!