Jan Hojer Dynos from the start to finish! | Beta Break Ep.2
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- Опубликовано: 4 фев 2020
- German power house climber Jan Hojer uses his height and his wingspan to his advantage and skips several crucial holds throughout his career. Often times this amazingly powerful way of climbing has led him to great success on the international stage of climbing!
Watch AO - Adam Ondra's video on Body Types here! - • Adam Ondra #38: What i...
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I have never seen that last clip from Adidas Rockstars. That was outrageous 😄
I know right! Ever since that semi finals, they've made sure to either tape off that arete or set around it so you can't bypass everything haha
Haha, i was about to gmail that thats why they invented tape ;)
@@AlbertOkay they fucked up 2019 again. Florian Klingler skipped half of the boulder at M3 the same way Jan did in 2015
That was so funny oh my god
Robert Wettstädt lololol
Jan Hojer is olympic's routesetters slenderman in their nightmare
LOL, this is by far the funniest comment hahah
Albert Ok oof
🤣
Slenderjan
I wonder, how much trouble or embarrassment do you get when somebody finishes your route by not taking it at all.
Depends on the ego of the person who build it!
I'd laugh tbh
A little black tape puts a section OB so the Adidas route setters really just screwed up
Jan Hojer grabs over 2 m distance.
Routesetter: Are we a joke to you?
And the answer they got back was a resounding yes
Routesetters: wait, thats illegal
HAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAH LOL HAHAHAHHAH LOLOLOL
I'm just going to grab the top. What?!
i hate these repeated comments
6:32 "Nice route. I think I'll pass."
Zoink!
"Oh! So you're giving up?"
"That's not what I said... ( ͡~ ͜ʖ ͡°)"
I loved watching Jan skip like 90% of the problem in Vail. Was so fun to watch!
Ah you were there too! Man the crowd went wild when he did that. I was right up at the front and he was cheezin HARD after he did that. Hilarious yet so impressive.
So fun!
This is the really the ultimate "work smarter not harder"
Or ´be taller’
Not really it’s just be taller lol
@@philliumOh plent of tall climbers wouldn't have come with that, also sometimes short climbers break beta too, give the man some credit
You’re probably right. But the way the video was made gives us the impression that having longer arms equals winning.
Lmao more like grow longer, not try harder
This last beta... I would love to see the routesetters' live reaction😂😂😂 Jan is amazing!
Short climbers: if only I were taller
Tall climbers: if only I were shorter
Average climbers: guess I just suck
change tall climbers to "if only I was even taller"
Facts
@@toximan2008 no short climbers have it a lot easier when it comes to holding longer just physics
@@mellowman8695 makes some moves hella difficult though
Tall climbers: I wish I wasn't made of so much mass
It's all about the neck bro
Better neck wins haha
@@AlbertOkay I win
Ondra = neck god
Ondra has the highest giraffe index.
But it’s real. Like for example Adam Ondra has a smaller + ape index and he made a video about how it’s not super super important. But if you cut out all that useless height in his giraffe neck his ape index would be HUGE
Just found your channel, and I have to say that your Beta Break series is one of the most entertaining looks at competition climbing I've seen, and I look forward to more episodes.
That last problem he broke was soooooo cheeky! The setters were probably pissed off by that one!
Thanks! I'll definitely be making more episodes in the future. I love how he just sits on the top knowing EXACtly what he's done haha.
Stuff like this makes me really curious to see how climbers break the beta at the Olympics. That would be awesome!
From 5:24 onward the announcer and music blended together to form an absolute banger of a hip hop track
Holy shit you're right
Why it sound chill as fuck, damn!
YES, mans is spitting. Never heard anything like it!
I thought that was part of the track lmao.
What song or beat is it though? I love the beat
Just as an old wise man at a local crag once told me, "there are two kinds of climbers: good climbers and tall climbers."
my grapes are sweet
Three: Good, tall climbers.
Ya but being tall actually makes it harder to be a “good” climber. Youre a lot heavier and your weight hangs further from the wall. Tall climbers need to find tall betas in order to compete. This is why you don’t see tall people dominating the climbing world like you do in vollleyball or basketball.
@@lonkk1 that or they’re too lazy to get stronger as they rely on their height.
@@elooouan it’s not about being lazy. It’s about the physical limits of what a body is capable of. On overhangs, the weight of gravity grows exponentially the longer the person is. It’s the same reason you never see an Olympic gymnast over 6ft. When is comes to maneuvering body weight, being shorter will always be an advantage.
as a tall climber myself, Jan hojer is GOALS
@@AlbertOkay how tall are you Mr. OK?
@@TheValinov I'm 6'1'' but I have a negative 3.5 ape index ): Trex arms haha
@@AlbertOkay F
6' tall here with ++ape index 😄😄
The Canadian climber was really good and I thoroughly enjoyed watching him climb.
it's easy to get tunnel vision with route setting because you yourself know the intended beta. Especially if you're vertically challenged you can't even fathom things that are instinctual and basic to taller climbers until you see the beta get broken. Happens a lot with zig zag routes.
Yeah i feel like usually routes force you to go a certain way by making certain moves and positions unpractical or impossible. for example placing a hold in such a. way that it is impossible to dyno to it.
That one at the end is the reason climbing is the best spectator sport.
Please do a video on tamoa and how his short height helps him.
Really love this series! :)
I have SO much to talk about Tomoa, man I love watching that man and could talk about him for hours - don't worry video about him will be coming out soon!
@@AlbertOkay same here, very nice! I am so looking forward to this! :)
Cool Video. I also am 6'2" guy with a 6'6" wingspan and I have to solve certain problems differently because it is much harder to do anything that requires raw strength due to the distance I have to pull.
I discovered your channel last night and I'm loving your content. I just started getting into climbing and this videos are very inspiring.
You should add 2017 munich boulder worldcup final men's #1. On the last second he tries his own beta, which was only way to send it in left seconds, and he wins the cup.
Dang you’re gonna go far kid playing in the background was kinda perfect on the last clip
This is such a cool series, thanks for making it!
I feel like he's my spirit animal😂 skipping holds and big reaches are my thing
this is so much more instructive than just watching people climb
Thanks Cannonbo! I'll be making more of this series in the future and I hope you enjoy it!
I'm so glad this was recommended to me
I just started climbing a month ago and this channel has taught me so much. Keep up the good work!
Thank you thankyou! I'm glad you were able to learn a thing or two!
fantastic channel dude, loving this content looking forward to seeing you grow your channel in the future
I am myself 10cm taller than Jan Hojer and telling by my own experience being tall is oftentimes an advantage, but not always. Sure, sometimes I can skip holds (especially in easy boulder) and sometimes I can even find a unique way to solve a harder boulder. But then again I have problems "fitting" under the holds, that means I struggle to hang on the long arm. Another common thing is that I flag out much harder in dynamic moves. And sometimes the levarge in moves just kills me. If I would be remotely as trained as Jan Hojer I could use my size to my advantage more often. But anyway I am convinced that my size is not the optimal height for bouldering. I am 1,97 by the way (with like 200cm span).
Dang you're a tall guy! I have a friend who is 198cm and he also has the same problem. Either he can do the problem really easily, or it's nearly impossible to even start some problems. I really think that climbing is such a unique sport where there truly are clear advantages and disadvantages to being either short or tall. Keep crushing those climbs though!
Also as a tall guy you really need to work hard for your core or on longer overhangs are going to be really tough!
Yeah, even worse is that you have longer fingers. Not optimal for pinching.
193 here, 195 wingspan and a boulderer. its fun to mess with the setters, so once a week they make a boulder with the most compact bullshit starts and put my name on them in irony. also dynamic moves can be really funky if they are compact since i dont get much movement and launch backwards
You're also much heavier which means all grips are worse for you.
Very nice video! Time to watch them all!
Very interesting serie! Thanks!
Excellent analysis and video presentation!
Your channel is going to be huge soon! My climbing coach just sent all of us this video, which should tell you something about the quality of you videos. Keep it up!
Ah that's so exciting! I hope my videos has been able to pass the time during this virus!
oldie but a goldie
Will you show the many many occasions when Jan Hojer's height makes it basically impossible for him to do certain moves?
Link?
I would also love to see this
Team 6' 2" here, I can confirm that I simply do not fit in certain movements tracked by people 20-30cm shorter than me
Team 5"2 here, can confirm I cannot fly to the final hold with 1 movement
No. Stop complaining about your advantage
Dude this channel is great!
I just love Jan Hojer.
He's definitely one of my favorite climbers!
This was a really good video! Very well put together, your narration was super smooth too and worked well with the editing.
Thanks James! I'm working towards getting a better computer, so the editing and audio will only get better from here!
I love how at 6:25 it looks like he's hacking from inside a video game, like, "Oh, I can just hang from the top of the screen. what now... you want me to put my hands on this one? Okay, happy?"
Nice video Albert! Cool comparison of two very different climbers
Thanks Quinn! Such a big difference on how they climb, but both really successful!
You make amazing videos. I am a country boy from Arkansas and I've always been a try climber lmao
Now as a 23 year old ots been years of nonstop working and never even really having time to get out in the woods and do the things I love but your videos have inspired me to find a local climbing facility and get up some walls!
Ever since I found your channel I've been making plans to gather some friends and hit a place in NWA or Little rock.
If anyone out there knows a good climbing facility for beginners, maybe a place that's not to crowded or challenging where we can really get some learning in would be great!
Great video thank you! 👍
Brilliant jan Hoyer
i was like "wait. what? jan hojers ape index isnt as big as i thought... oh wait... that number was given in something american, probably football fields per burger"
Football fields per burger gagahahahhaha
Why would you expect him to have a large ape index? He's pretty tall, and your tallness decreases it; it's just that he is tall _and_ has a large arm span.
@drew13600 that was 75 years ago. probably 525 years ago, in american years
IT was in chest beats per silverback.
@drew13600 That was the Russians, Drew, and they paid millions of actual LIVES for that. the USA got rich quick, and quickly became narcissistic beyond all bounds - see your orange baby.
one of the better beta breaks
Awesome video 👍
Great video!
:)
Wow so cool to see hojer crushing the board in the old chimpanzodrom
Pure gold
Thanks for showing how much of a beast Sean mccoll is!!!
OMG 6:25 is craaazy! hahaha that's awesome. Love your beta break series, keep em coming! :D
tremenda fuerza y destreza la de este hombre.
absolute legend
Love these vids. I don't think anyone else is making videos highlighting these moments. Would love to see more of these (like and sub)
Thanks!
I'm not a climber - not by choice because I'd love to do it just for fun, anyway - but your BB series really made me love climbing (sorry if it's not the right term) in about 18h... so good job on getting someone into the sport as a watcher with just a few videos!
Heck yes! I'm so glad you were able to be exposed by the great and interesting sport of climbing. I hope one day climbing can be possible for you and as always keep crushing it!
Great vid! I love that all body types have advantages and disadvantages in climbing! I'm 5'10 with +3 ape but man some of these lankier guys are something out of this world
I guess Jan is the only climber that would have a super easy time to construct boulders that nobody else could climb. :)
5:10 vs 6:26 - This seems so obvious only after I've seen Jan do it.
It's not only that Jan is tall, but he knows how to think tall. Really talented climber that we are lucky to watch all the time!
The last one was really outrageous...
watching the beginning with skinny fingers is something else man :D my fingers break just from watching
Colin - what to do vs Jan - what looks cool
I think the hardest part about setting routes when he exists is not knowing his limits. Hes clearly the only one that does, and it would be such a specific mindset to be in to know this.
Im 185cm tall and I have a +11cm ape index and Im light as a feather no matter how much I eat. I train when I want, Im lazy so it's not often, I only climb outdoors, I eat junk food and still climb at the level of my climbing partners who train 5-6 times a week, eat healty food and boulder indoors but have a normal human body. Life is good.
This was a delight to watch after my experience at the gym the other day. I finally sent my first v4-v6 climb after a week of projecting and 50+ attempts. Two days later I sent my second v4-v6 after two attempts by reaching up and gently touching the finish with both hands (I'm 186 cm), skipping over half the holds. It felt strange and almost like I cheated, but watching Jan Hojer do this in competitions and people loving it makes me feel better!
Jan Hojer been making route setters scared for years 😂
I liked the huge buildup and then the cut to Jan already holding the top hold, that's just what I came to see...
Sup Albert, just stumbled across this lol. congrats on the youtube success my man
To quote Lynn Hill: Tall climbers don't climb, they reach! ;-)
The legend! So true!
Reminds me of the UCI rulings against certain positions and equipment when they were “too fast”…including stripping victories from competitors because “ well, we just dont do it that way, so youre disqualified”…
Good one
What a boss 👍
This was really encouraging! I am a 6'4" climber with a positive ape index and I always get people saying "tall people..."/*pshing*/shaking heads after I send a hard boulder problem by breaking the beta. This has made me self conscious thinking I am cheating and making me always try to follow intended beta without skipping holds. But now I think I will lean into my advantage and explore new creative ways of sending!
One thing I hate as a tall climber, is people saying how easy it is to 'just reach for it'. Besides the obvious downside at compression problems (fucking sit-starts...), something that rarely gets acknowledged is weight and leverage. A lot of the time individual moves are much more strenuous as a taller and heavier climber.
I know that feel, I'm a taller climber...but even worse I have almost a negative 4 inch ape index so I don't even get the benefits of reach, just heavier and have to try much harder when I cut feet. Jan is definitely an inspiration to me since he's someone that's making it work even being a taller heavier climber
Anyone remember the comp where he climbed using the foothold from right towards left. While others did something differently (either or coordination jump/ on a slab )
Hmmm...do you remember if it was an IFSC event or a different international comp? Maybe ChongQing 2018? or Munich 2017?
@@AlbertOkay pretty sure it was an IFSC event. Should be between 2016-2017. Me and my friends remembered the route but just couldn't recall the exact event.
The last boulder, if I was judging, I would not have given credit for.
Pretty funny having this recommended to me. Never knew you were into climbing. We went to high school together. :p
No way! Hit me up on Instagram or FB, would love to catch up!
Jan Hoyer... the man for whom the shrug emoji was created ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Amazing!
Jan : "I have my own way"
Martin Luther King: "I have a dream."
Pretty obvious which climber shows more tenacity and, in the end, is more impressive.
Right!? As much as it is impressive to see him skip huge portions of the problems, I can't help but to feel as if he's cheating the system. Sean was putting work into it, Jan was just tall.
In a way what both of them are doing is quite impressive - and I definitely am going to be making a video comparing the advantages of shorter climbers versus taller climbers in the future which I hope you'll enjoy!
He cheesed tf out of that climb at the end 😂
Lol that's me at the gym, the routesetter even opened an anti tall boulder problem just to challenge me
Ayy
Florian Klingler pulled a similar stunt in Adidas rockstars 2019. The context made it all the more awesome.
The finals are 4 boulders knockout, meaning the last climbers “fall out” until only 2 climbers remain for the 4th boulder (which they perform at the same time).
At the time Florian approaches the 3rd boulder, he has one zone and one top in the bag. Yoshiyuki Ogata has two tops and Jongwon Chon has one zone and one top, but with fewer attempts than Florian AND he just achieved a zone on the 3rd boulder before Florian. Meaning to avoid knockout, Florian needs to top this boulder.
The boulder is a hand jab boulder, which Florian does no seem comfortable with. After a few failed attempts, his future in this comp is looking rather bleak.
Florian then turns around and hypes up the crowd to try the boulder one last time. He compresses between the two hand jabs, and then just jumps to the end, skipping the rest of the boulder. The crowd goes wild, and the commentator even remarks “He went very Jan Hojer there”. This was the first time I saw a skip like that in competition and the context made it super hype.
I was watching a live stream and was screaming when he stuck the move - I LOVE the adidas rockstar format. It's such a fun format for the spectators and competitors to fight through!
Albert Ok Agreed, it serves really well to ramp up pressure and build a proper climax.
It was my first time seeing Florian but I was so proud of him at that point.
yoshiyuki ogata as well on the same problem. is also what helped him get the win over klingler
Becca Tingley I feel like the crowd kinda nudged him on this one
@@motherlove8366 i personally disagree. but even in the final he skipped the last crimp altogether even after they took away the blocking hold.
I’ve always wanted to see 2 similar routes , one stretched for taller climbers to see how they would climb instead of reaching
The offspring: "Hit em right between the eyes"
Jan Hojer: 🧗👊🤷♂️
The routesetters:
...
😢
amazing think-fast climbing. mobeleash
This is interesting
is there what's generally considered an ideal height? i've done some recreational climbing and i'm 5'9" with long arms but i have way too much muscle mass to ever be this good. i burn out my forearms way too fast.
The real question is it better to be tall or have really long arms?
Bloody hell this is amazing hahaha
Occam's Razor does not favour the simplest solution, it favours the solution with the fewest assumptions, which isn't necessarily the simplest.
As a setter, tall beta is and will continue to be the bane of our existence
7:06 is this the gym in frechen (cologne)?
Music at 5:25?
Skipping holds
Getting top
As a 193cm climber with 201cm ape index I felt like I often couldn't do the beta I saw in videos for boulders : Too compressed, feet too high. I created this small channel (Tall Beta Climbing) to show a tall beta for some boulders, and even quite a few sit-starts ! I give my opinion too, if being tall makes it harder or easier. For now it is mostly in Fontainebleau and Rocklands but please send me videos if you are tall too (like 190cm+) !
im 6.3 (191cm) and climbing is so much fun for because i can somtimes skip a lot of the hard parts and leave my friends in awe but it sometimes is a disadvantage as well. i only climb 6b+ so far but curious if it will help me on harder routes
@Hoyt Volker well, i climb with a friend who knows his stuff well and he tells me how to climb, and i watch him do it, and its super fun for me to show him that i can skip the parts which are the hardest for him :D but i m not always doing it because i wont really learn then and get stronger. but somtimes i can just jump to the top, or do momentum moves staticaly :D
@Thu Nell Ⓥ no i fully agree with you! i often do routes that i "cheated" again properly. but somtimes i am really to tall and its much harder or even impossible (for me at least). i wouldnt learn much or get stronger if i just skip holds
Well, I'm 178cm and have a wingspan of 187cm, so almost 4' as well, but it comes with a rather pronounced downside as well. When climbing in cramped positions, even more so in overhangs, the amout of leverage you cannot use to your advantage becomes problematic. With longer arms you cannot rely on just hanging on your skeleton as much as shorter people do, plus mantling becomes a bit more of a challenge.
Dont Forge the time crimped the sign :D
Hans Pans When? Could you please send a link
The routesetter now owns shares in the company that supplies black tape 😜