I also love Dave’s ‘Action versus Motivation’ vlog, you have put these together. Clear the space in your life, remove the barriers to specific training, then go out even when you don’t feel like it. For me, that first step was moving to the Adirondacks and simplifying our financial life by selling a second home that was like a millstone around our necks. The second part was building a practice wall in the garage, but also small things like preparing lunch, setting the coffee maker, loading all the gear in the pack, then putting it in the car the night before. So much easier getting out the door the next day, there’s no excuse not to.
As someone who has long been "highly motivated" and now recovering from the brink of burn-out, I finally understand the importance of this. Since primary school I've always been trained to think that doing more = Good. Thanks for such good perspectives and thoughts in this video!
some of the most informative and digestible content on youtube! I absolutely love this view point for climbing but also many other areas of life......Thanks Dave for all the helpful videos you share and I look forward to getting my hands on your new book!
on the other side of that, it can happen to me personally sometimes that when i have too much time on my hands, i tend to loose focus, or try to do too much etc.. it is a nimble balance that must be found, but it is a very rewarding path! thanks for all the insights dave, i aspire to be like you when it comes to the mindgames! hope you have a good new year, and you can tackle all the goals you want!
Wow! I’ve been struggling with the exact thing that you mention in this video, so I can’t thank you enough for giving me another prespective on this topic.
Thanks a ton, Dave - love how you always dig to the bottom of issues instead of reamining at the surface of maintream, quick advices as most gurus / youtubers would do. A true inquisitive, analytical, scientific mind at work. Please more :)
Great video dave. Really looking forward to the new book youre putting together. I wanted to add a little mental trick for others who may be reading, which has helped me get to the training equipment many times (most notably hangboard) which I picked up from Australian climber Tom O'Halloran. The biggest barrier for me is the first step and so his solution to this was to just go start the warm up routine. If after the warm up, you are still not motivated to climb/train, let yourself take the night off and accept how you feel. More often than not, I find myself ready and eager to train after my warm up routine, and if not, I have undertaken body maintenance for the day and can relax knowing I made an effort to get into the training!
It's interesting to me that training is the hard thing to find motivation for for so many people. Climbing is the fun part, and the rest of my training is either very clearly linked to climbing or fun/rewarding in its own way. The hard thing for me is getting enough sleep, staying sober and living an otherwise healthy life. None of those things is super fun or rewarding in the short run and my monkey brain doesn't like it.
You're a treasure Dave, I do not have any problems getting out and training hard but I turned on this video anyways because I enjoy hearing thoughtful and articulate people, like you, talk about the things they undoubtedly spend a lot of time mulling over in their heads. Keep doing what you're doing!
I hired a well known climbing coach, put in tons of hours over 5 months and limped away with no climbing improvement, but got some extra injuries instead… this has definitely crushed my motivation/stoke after experiencing so much stress on my body and schedule. Thanks for the inspo, Dave.
Balancing job, family and climbing is definately hard, getting a hangboard at home was the first step, but I would really like a home wall as well, and then living in Denmark, just means climbing outside will always be a trip… im really tacking my brain on how to get to that next level
Great video. I keep thinking "if I just wake up an hour earlier, I would have time to do ___________." And then I either don't wake up earlier and don't do what I wanted, or I do wake up earlier and compromise my rest and recovery. It can be tough to cut things out, especially when so much (job, commute, sitting on the couch like a zombie after work) can feel mandatory, even when of course it isn't
Thought provoking video. I think another complimentary activity/interest is helpful for when climbing motivation is low. From a practical point of view if people prioritised sleep and cut out alcohol they may find their energy levels/ability to absorb stress and motivation improves. Those are the two lifestyle changes that I’ve most benefited from.
You are such an interesting person actually. I've seen many videos with you/of you and kinda assumed i'm subscribed to your channel. Turned out i'm not. So i finally corrected that mistake. Thanks for the video and Happy New Year!
This really spoke to me. I also have the reputation of being highly motivated. Because I get a lot of stuff done. But I think of myself of really lazy. Finding the right strategies is key, motivation just gets me on track to find the right strategy.
6:11 big one for me. When i lived in a place where the nearest climbing gym as a 20 (30 with traffic) minute drive away, and i had to use one of my parents cars to get there, i only went about once or twice a week. Now i live in a place where the climbing gym is a 15-20 minute walk (or 3-4 minute bike ride but i'm not in the most bike friendly place) i go at least 3-4 times a week.
What we know neuroscientifically is that we must exhibit the behavior first, and thoughts, feelings, and perceptions will follow. If you're super psyched to train sometimes, that's great, but extreme motivation wanes, and won't be there every time. We need "top-down control" to power us through to during times when we're lacking, in order to achieve our goals
Kipchoge, the champion marathon runner has a similar line of thinking as it relates to self discipline. The world’s fastest marathoner, Eliud Kipchoge, says you need more ‘vitamin N’ in your life. Vitamin N, Kipchoge explains, is the ability to say no-a key part of self-discipline, something Kipchoge embodies in his athletic ability and the calm confident ease with which he speaks and conducts his life.
Brilliant video. The notion that we should create more space in our lives in order to create motivation is on my mind for quite a while. Interestingly, I've never heard anyone talking about that. Our culture celebrates squeezing as many things as possible in our lives I'm afraid.
I am very intrigued, but also confused by your use of the expression "signal to noise". I've always seen the term stress as a very vague one, so my first question is what the defining factor of stress is in this case. It is obvious that recovery and therefore adaptations from training will suffer if you are chronically, physiologically stressed, but I am curious if your stance is that there is further analysis to be done in favour of the same conclusion - That all non-training stressors, whatever you define as such, are noise that inevitably disturb the training stimulus.
I'm not entirely sure broad statements or generalisations regarding stress are helpful. As Sapolsky (Why Zebras Don't get Ulcers) so rightly suggests 'stress is context dependent' and in the right context very useful. I find living in the 'countryside' not so much stressful but not enjoyable, whereas being in a city I find invigorating and energising (too many buzzwords). Motivation is a complex interplay of neurology and endocrinology, one persons motivation is another poison. But having said all that nice video and look forward to reading the book
Does h pylori not infect zebras. I believe stress was the blamed factor but it turns out it was a simple bacterial infection that makes your stomach less acidic. Since that book was published in 2004 I wonder how relevant it is today, since stomach surgery for ulcers has been on the decline for 15 years, putting 2004 before that. I am sure it is a good book but the irony of the title..
@@joel6376 hi no as far as I’m aware h pylori does not affect zebras. The h pylori bacterium is present in a majority of human gut but not all get ulcers. It’s multi factorial. As to whether book written in 2004 is still relevant I’ll let you decide. I’ll agree elements of the book may need revising but the basic concept of stress being context dependent still holds water. We all experience different stressors and stress can be good as well as bad.
I've got time and motivation now but injured my lateral collateral ligament 5 weeks ago on a dodgy, bunched up heel hook. Back with a bit of climbing again, avoiding certain movements. Barely a mention of LCL in "Make or break". Guess it's not a common climbing injury. Any suggestions?
No, not a common injury but ligaments respond pretty well to progressive loading. I tore my MCL really badly years ago and it healed very quickly. But I also tore the hamstrings tendon at the same time and couldn't heel hook properly for a year. Not to worry - just climb without heelhooking! And if it's too delicate for any real climbing just yet, you've got foot off bouldering, hang board, campus board, rings and general calisthenics. Plenty to be getting on with.
@@climbermacleod Nice one. Yes in a way mine felt to heal faster than expected too (could barely walk first week!). After 5 weeks it feels maybe 80% healed, but also kinda feels like the last 20% could take several months! I had a similar story with an running ankle injury a few years ago - could run on it after a few weeks but was over a year before it felt fully healed. Not the end of the world if the LCL goes the same way. It will give me chance to work on other weaknesses and find new beta on routes that usually require a heel hook! Cheers for the input Dave 😁
I like the idea that subtractive thinking can be constructive. As you say, western culture often encourages ideas of "more, better, bigger, faster, etc." but that doesnt work for everyone and it is nice to receive a reminder
@climbermacleod My assumption would be that producing RUclips videos and other social media content comes with an additional layer of stress in the form of backlash against some of your ideas. I know I'd find responding to constant criticism quite an emotional load. Is that something that's a problem for you or do you have a thick enough skin that it never gets to you?
I dare say it is for some folk. But I learned a long time ago not to get emotional about the fact that someone would think differently from me. If it's a disagreement of science, then it's just about seeing and weighing evidence. If it's a matter of style/art/opinion then if everyone likes it, it is probably hopelessly bland!
Спорт
I also love Dave’s ‘Action versus Motivation’ vlog, you have put these together. Clear the space in your life, remove the barriers to specific training, then go out even when you don’t feel like it. For me, that first step was moving to the Adirondacks and simplifying our financial life by selling a second home that was like a millstone around our necks. The second part was building a practice wall in the garage, but also small things like preparing lunch, setting the coffee maker, loading all the gear in the pack, then putting it in the car the night before. So much easier getting out the door the next day, there’s no excuse not to.
Sick! Adirondacks represent!
As someone who has long been "highly motivated" and now recovering from the brink of burn-out, I finally understand the importance of this. Since primary school I've always been trained to think that doing more = Good. Thanks for such good perspectives and thoughts in this video!
Do I have the motivation to eat an all McDonalds beef patty diet though?
sound like a vegan asshole.
Do you have the motivation to be sincere about your passions? Or just snarky?
@@nate59plusdo you have the mental capacity to understand a joke? Or just slow in the head?
@@nate59plus Sounded like just a joke to me?
@@climbermacleodclearly haha
Shifting the attention the "what am I NOT going to do in the new year" is a great little nugget, thank you :)
Thanks Dave, and a happy Hogmanay to you and yours.
Nice projects, Dave! Looking forward to them. Have a great new year!
I needed to hear this; perfect timing. Thank you Dave and best of luck on your projects!
I always enjoy your videos looking forward to more
Thanks for the video, this is definitely something I needed to hear!
Hope you and the family had a great Christmas Dave. Cant wait for the book
Thanks for everything Dave, your thoughtful contributions are such a motivational tool in their own right.
Perfect timing Dave, thanks for the insights. Happy new year.
Love this, thanks Dave, just what i needed, take stuff out to get more focus and motivation
Thanks for this Dave
This was generally one of the best videos i have seen in recent time, so good and striking thoughts! Thankyou
some of the most informative and digestible content on youtube! I absolutely love this view point for climbing but also many other areas of life......Thanks Dave for all the helpful videos you share and I look forward to getting my hands on your new book!
on the other side of that, it can happen to me personally sometimes that when i have too much time on my hands, i tend to loose focus, or try to do too much etc.. it is a nimble balance that must be found, but it is a very rewarding path! thanks for all the insights dave, i aspire to be like you when it comes to the mindgames! hope you have a good new year, and you can tackle all the goals you want!
I appreciate you sir! This was good to hear and I think very attainable 👍
Wow! I’ve been struggling with the exact thing that you mention in this video, so I can’t thank you enough for giving me another prespective on this topic.
Thanks a ton, Dave - love how you always dig to the bottom of issues instead of reamining at the surface of maintream, quick advices as most gurus / youtubers would do. A true inquisitive, analytical, scientific mind at work. Please more :)
Sick video man! So much truth in it!
Great video dave. Really looking forward to the new book youre putting together.
I wanted to add a little mental trick for others who may be reading, which has helped me get to the training equipment many times (most notably hangboard) which I picked up from Australian climber Tom O'Halloran. The biggest barrier for me is the first step and so his solution to this was to just go start the warm up routine. If after the warm up, you are still not motivated to climb/train, let yourself take the night off and accept how you feel.
More often than not, I find myself ready and eager to train after my warm up routine, and if not, I have undertaken body maintenance for the day and can relax knowing I made an effort to get into the training!
Thanks Dave, happy days
Very insightful and well articulated
It's interesting to me that training is the hard thing to find motivation for for so many people. Climbing is the fun part, and the rest of my training is either very clearly linked to climbing or fun/rewarding in its own way. The hard thing for me is getting enough sleep, staying sober and living an otherwise healthy life. None of those things is super fun or rewarding in the short run and my monkey brain doesn't like it.
Same here!
Same here as well. Except for core workout, I hate it :p
So insightful thanks for the mental game tips as always!
Just bought the book! Really looking forward to it - Mark
You're a treasure Dave, I do not have any problems getting out and training hard but I turned on this video anyways because I enjoy hearing thoughtful and articulate people, like you, talk about the things they undoubtedly spend a lot of time mulling over in their heads.
Keep doing what you're doing!
Thanks you, found this really helpful
yes! Family, work, climbing, sleeping, and a lot of stuff i can shut down, switch off. Good point! Lets think diferently!
Looking well Dave. This is a fantastic video. Saved and shared! Keep it up :)
I really relate to this Dave, thanks!
Great video Dave 💪💪💪💪
I hired a well known climbing coach, put in tons of hours over 5 months and limped away with no climbing improvement, but got some extra injuries instead… this has definitely crushed my motivation/stoke after experiencing so much stress on my body and schedule. Thanks for the inspo, Dave.
Can’t wait to see more videos.
Awesome advice!
Happy New Year Dave!
Balancing job, family and climbing is definately hard, getting a hangboard at home was the first step, but I would really like a home wall as well, and then living in Denmark, just means climbing outside will always be a trip… im really tacking my brain on how to get to that next level
Great video. I keep thinking "if I just wake up an hour earlier, I would have time to do ___________." And then I either don't wake up earlier and don't do what I wanted, or I do wake up earlier and compromise my rest and recovery. It can be tough to cut things out, especially when so much (job, commute, sitting on the couch like a zombie after work) can feel mandatory, even when of course it isn't
Thought provoking video. I think another complimentary activity/interest is helpful for when climbing motivation is low. From a practical point of view if people prioritised sleep and cut out alcohol they may find their energy levels/ability to absorb stress and motivation improves. Those are the two lifestyle changes that I’ve most benefited from.
I like the new rock action music intro Dave!
You are such an interesting person actually. I've seen many videos with you/of you and kinda assumed i'm subscribed to your channel. Turned out i'm not. So i finally corrected that mistake. Thanks for the video and Happy New Year!
This really spoke to me. I also have the reputation of being highly motivated. Because I get a lot of stuff done. But I think of myself of really lazy. Finding the right strategies is key, motivation just gets me on track to find the right strategy.
Wise words!
This advice applies a long ways beyond climbing.
Happy New year
And here's the answer why less training can sometimes bring more results. Thanks Dave!
1:00 in and im going training. Thanks Dave!
6:11 big one for me. When i lived in a place where the nearest climbing gym as a 20 (30 with traffic) minute drive away, and i had to use one of my parents cars to get there, i only went about once or twice a week. Now i live in a place where the climbing gym is a 15-20 minute walk (or 3-4 minute bike ride but i'm not in the most bike friendly place) i go at least 3-4 times a week.
The round trip to the local gym, being at the gym, low overall time-under-tension and other people's route setting are solid demotivators.
intro song & edit went unreasonably hard... going to need a song ID 🙏
Love that metal edit though
What we know neuroscientifically is that we must exhibit the behavior first, and thoughts, feelings, and perceptions will follow. If you're super psyched to train sometimes, that's great, but extreme motivation wanes, and won't be there every time. We need "top-down control" to power us through to during times when we're lacking, in order to achieve our goals
Kipchoge, the champion marathon runner has a similar line of thinking as it relates to self discipline.
The world’s fastest marathoner, Eliud Kipchoge, says you need more ‘vitamin N’ in your life. Vitamin N, Kipchoge explains, is the ability to say no-a key part of self-discipline, something Kipchoge embodies in his athletic ability and the calm confident ease with which he speaks and conducts his life.
Brilliant
Got me really questioning myself - Thanks
Thanks, good stuff!
Brilliant video. The notion that we should create more space in our lives in order to create motivation is on my mind for quite a while. Interestingly, I've never heard anyone talking about that. Our culture celebrates squeezing as many things as possible in our lives I'm afraid.
Ikigai is a fantastic book that reflects some of the points you’re making in this video Dave. Might be something that would interest you
Thank you for the recommendation! Just borrowed it from my library!
Today i went to a climbing session even though i did no feel like it, now i have an injured finger.. 😐
That’s unfortunate, I hope you have a rapid recovery! 🙏
Thanks a lot, i hope so too!
Haven’t seen anything on the new book. Anyone know if it’s out or what it’s called? Thanks!
I don’t want to know the numbers of relationships that suddenly ended after people saw this hihi jj great video man
Before you had your bouldering wall did you train in the rain a lot? If so how did you manage to maintain motivation?
I just go to overhanging crags. Or fingerboard.
I am very intrigued, but also confused by your use of the expression "signal to noise". I've always seen the term stress as a very vague one, so my first question is what the defining factor of stress is in this case.
It is obvious that recovery and therefore adaptations from training will suffer if you are chronically, physiologically stressed, but I am curious if your stance is that there is further analysis to be done in favour of the same conclusion - That all non-training stressors, whatever you define as such, are noise that inevitably disturb the training stimulus.
I'm not entirely sure broad statements or generalisations regarding stress are helpful. As Sapolsky (Why Zebras Don't get Ulcers) so rightly suggests 'stress is context dependent' and in the right context very useful. I find living in the 'countryside' not so much stressful but not enjoyable, whereas being in a city I find invigorating and energising (too many buzzwords). Motivation is a complex interplay of neurology and endocrinology, one persons motivation is another poison. But having said all that nice video and look forward to reading the book
Does h pylori not infect zebras. I believe stress was the blamed factor but it turns out it was a simple bacterial infection that makes your stomach less acidic. Since that book was published in 2004 I wonder how relevant it is today, since stomach surgery for ulcers has been on the decline for 15 years, putting 2004 before that.
I am sure it is a good book but the irony of the title..
@@joel6376 hi no as far as I’m aware h pylori does not affect zebras. The h pylori bacterium is present in a majority of human gut but not all get ulcers. It’s multi factorial. As to whether book written in 2004 is still relevant I’ll let you decide. I’ll agree elements of the book may need revising but the basic concept of stress being context dependent still holds water. We all experience different stressors and stress can be good as well as bad.
Is taking creative good for climbers? If so what’s better loading or micro dosing?
Creatine
I've got time and motivation now but injured my lateral collateral ligament 5 weeks ago on a dodgy, bunched up heel hook. Back with a bit of climbing again, avoiding certain movements. Barely a mention of LCL in "Make or break". Guess it's not a common climbing injury. Any suggestions?
No, not a common injury but ligaments respond pretty well to progressive loading. I tore my MCL really badly years ago and it healed very quickly. But I also tore the hamstrings tendon at the same time and couldn't heel hook properly for a year. Not to worry - just climb without heelhooking! And if it's too delicate for any real climbing just yet, you've got foot off bouldering, hang board, campus board, rings and general calisthenics. Plenty to be getting on with.
@@climbermacleod Nice one. Yes in a way mine felt to heal faster than expected too (could barely walk first week!). After 5 weeks it feels maybe 80% healed, but also kinda feels like the last 20% could take several months! I had a similar story with an running ankle injury a few years ago - could run on it after a few weeks but was over a year before it felt fully healed. Not the end of the world if the LCL goes the same way. It will give me chance to work on other weaknesses and find new beta on routes that usually require a heel hook! Cheers for the input Dave 😁
THE MOTIVATION DOESNT STOP THE FINGER INJURIES DONT EITHER
I like the idea that subtractive thinking can be constructive. As you say, western culture often encourages ideas of "more, better, bigger, faster, etc." but that doesnt work for everyone and it is nice to receive a reminder
@climbermacleod My assumption would be that producing RUclips videos and other social media content comes with an additional layer of stress in the form of backlash against some of your ideas. I know I'd find responding to constant criticism quite an emotional load. Is that something that's a problem for you or do you have a thick enough skin that it never gets to you?
I dare say it is for some folk. But I learned a long time ago not to get emotional about the fact that someone would think differently from me. If it's a disagreement of science, then it's just about seeing and weighing evidence. If it's a matter of style/art/opinion then if everyone likes it, it is probably hopelessly bland!