Setting a hard circuit with new holds - My setting process
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 11 мар 2024
- It's been a long time since I bought some new holds for the board. It was time for some fresh circuits and I go through my process for setting and designing the layout of the board.
My book on training: www.davemacleod.com/shop/9out...
My Patreon: / davemacleod 
Спорт
Last video: "I am not a sandbagger"
This video: "Sandbagging myself again"
Hopefully you are not the only one who got the joke?!
I would love to see more setting! It gets me so psyched to see you climb hard, especially when you fail (which I don’t often see). Keep up the hard work and thank you for sharing!
6:33 make me giggle there, if 30 years experience isn't enough I don't think there's very many people who qualify!
Will use this as inspiration for my little spraywall project. Def want to see more of these setting videos
From a routesetter: Thanks for the appreciation, Dave!
Would be really interesting to see one of your power endurance/ endurance training sessions!
I'd love to see another one of these and get some more insights into your thought process on deciding what move you want to force - and how you do that.
I'm trying to set limit boulders on my gym spraywall, but I struggle. But I get 2 very interesting points from you video : setting by thinking in type of moves and not just "from what hold to what hold?". And not to forget to put bad feet to make it more interesting and more similar to outdoor climbing. Thanks Dave
At least from where I'm sitting it looks like you nailed the fun and interesting part of the circuit, would be very interested to see more of this! Thanks for sharing!
I can’t set my own problems but have access to a small spray wall, plus my gyms regular bouldering walls. Watching this is still really helpful for me to try to start to create my own problems. Would love to hear even more about how you tend to create each individual move, like whether you have a specific climbing move in your head that you’d like to put on the board and you then pick the hand holds/footholds to match the move, or if you are picking out holds that you like first and then the moves between the holds come naturally. For someone who has never set problems before it’s a rewarding process but takes me a good bit of time to set each boulder.
Definitely enjoy the route setting process. There's a lot to take home in a video like this. Also great watching you fight and beat the problem!
Brilliant! Loved this. Definitely looking forward to more setting videos.
Dave Mac is my hero
I would love to see more detail on what makes the holds you like... likable? While injured I've been experimenting with hold shaping. It's great fun, but it feels like there's as much to learn as routesetting -- and I'm not even a routesetter!!
Oh man, I'm always interested in more ideas for getting in endurance workouts on home walls!
More setting, please.😃
Quality effort Dave, quality video, thanks, helps a lot!
Beginner setter here, appreciated everything on this video. Thanks a lot, Dave!
The circuit looks absolutely savage. 😮
Beginner climber here. I love your vids Dave, how you explain the process of climbing and the climbing itself. It keeps me motivated to keep going and to keep pushing. Thank you for the great content!
Awesome, happy to see more of this
love your board vids, keep them coming please!
As a professional route setter, I totally agree Dave. The people I see in the gym setting problems and trying different types of movements on a system board like the Kilter Board or Moon Board, or even just the gym wall, are the people who probably would make the best setters. I dream about moves, write moves down, draw moves, and think about movement all the time. Every route setter I know does the same to some extent. It just becomes a part of you and makes you a better setter and ultimately climber. Lesson: set your own problems!
Great vid Dave. Your last comments regards to route setters I agree with you, but they will never please everyone.
Heck yes! Setters are the unsung heros of climbing! I adore my gym’s setters - they make me a better climber.
always keen for more board/ setting videos :D
Awesome video. Your editing is really good too.
Love the setting videos, please make another!
I'm currently building my first climbing room. It's not as big as yours of course but I've never set a route! With all of the talk from you and others about how critical it is to have your own training wall(s) at home, the more info the better to get a great head start to build experience by doing, with some insight into setting off in a good direction when beginning to get your first wall up and running!
Great video, appreciate all the knowledge and any more videos on training.
Great video Dave! Love the music in this one!
Pure joy in this man. love it.
Brilliant Dave! Would love to see more setting videos
Would love to see more of these setting videos!
Sick dave, good stuff!
love the angles and tilt-shift effects
definitely would want to see more setting.
Multiple questions in mind: how to keep downclimbs interesting especially on less steep terrain where it's less about keeping body tension when "falling" into the next hold? For hard boulders/cruxes how do you judge whether a move is impossible or just needs to be worked on for multiple sessions? When I set on a board I just tend to make the move easier & easier until I can do it in just a few tries, but I feel like that defeats the purpose of setting stuff at your limit...
Definitely would like to see more setting videos, really enjoyed this but super jealous of your setup although I still love my little garage board.
Great video, Dave - looking very strong! Would love a video on your current training program and some of the projects you're preparing for. Would love to see how it all lines up and plays out.
This is inspiring! I route-set at my university with friends, more route setting videos would be incredibly helpful for ideas and such.
Great content dave! I always like building a route with move or a sequence that I have in mind and build up and down into that. I don't always do that but it is one method of setting I like. Sometimes you put a hold on the wall you just get some new ideas.
Another one!! Yes please.
Your training wall is such a dream set up for training. Would be super nice to learn more about your ideas and concepts how a good training wall should look like. Currently looking for a space to build a new wall for the local climbing community here so some input would be very appreciated.
Couldn't agree more with your comments about route setters at the end (except some still need help to develop a bit) so it's good to see companies like Impact route setting (in the UK) moving the specialisation forwards and professionalising it somewhat. Hopefully this will lead to better career paths and be reflected in salaries. I find it absolutely bonkers that some gyms prevent their setters from setting elsewhere, thus missing out on gaining more crucial experience. I can understand it for their direct competitors but a blanket ban is absolutely bonkers IMO.
Yes, that does seem strange. For one thing, it would surely lead in the end to losing good staff.
You nailed it, I’ve witnessed multiple gyms across London and the South East lose their setters (sometimes the very best) for this very reason.
100% would watch a vid on your less steep wall! TY
More please!
Sorry if it's already been asked/answered in other comment.
You mentioned you don't take flights anymore, is it due to environmental reasons or anything else?
whatever the reason seems like a tough decision for a professional climber, so proper respect to you.
At the same time I'm just a bit sad we won't get to see you experience climbing in other parts of the world.
It would be great to watch you climbing here in South America, despite the general higher temperatures.
Cheers Dave
Sweet polyester holds !
I always find setting the down climbing sections a lot harder. Would be interesting to see how you deal with those parts in the next video
love this content, especially with drumnbass! - pls make a loop for a smaller Spraywall. And keep up Mr. Inspiration ;)
I don't know what it is about board content but I am transfixed, more please!,
tbh I would actually really like to see what a typical "board session" looks like for you,
e.g is it some fingerboarding, some hard bouldering and then some routes?, I think this would be interesting (forgive me if you have already made this lol)
I liked the video!
yes, more setting and mind settings
What are the measurements of your spray board? It looks massive.
Let’s see it!
"More?" Yes please
Interesting stuff as always! How do you feel about the injury risk with downclimbing? I guess it is more taxing fo joints and tendons?
Quick question, do you think that it's possible to set GOOD circuits on vertical walls rather than on an incline? If so what would be the best way to do it? Cheers!
Really enjoyed the video, amateur setter myself and you’ve certainly given me ideas. The comment about thinking about moves definitely rings true for me lol
Edit: as a question, my gym also has lots of old holds, almost no dual tex to be seen. As such I think I might develop a style that will hinder my creativity if/when I set in gyms with more access to holds; how can I prevent this?
Would love to see more setting ❤ my board is 60 degrees, i mainly boulder. How would you go about setting a steep board?
Great video! How would you set a small cellar woodie board?
Just a massive shout out to all the boulder bro setters who don't think about feet at all. Watch this and listen, you'll learn a lot.
Super helpful with setting circuits on my board. Question though, you said "I don't fly anymore." Why not?
Carbon.
Animal 🙌🏻💪🏻
When you're making an endurance circuit, what specifies the movement selection? Are you looking for a variety of hold types/movements/ techniques etc bilaterally, or do you have specific things you include?
If your wall was mostly traversing. Do you think it will have the same training effect as doing circles in a bigger spray wall like yours? Perhaps forearms are the same but what about biceps or some back muscles.
Love your videos they are all inspiring to make me a better climber. Thank!
You can certainly work it to get a similar endurance, maybe even strength effect. Technique, it might be a little different.
Out of curiosity, do you ever set circuits that cover both of your boards? They are super close at the top, so I'd imagine you could create a really awesome circuit that varies a lot in character and has some unique moves.
PS: I love the route setting content. I'm actually currently trying to get a part time job as a route setter at my local climbing gym. I'm kinda loosing hope though, the head route setter has been giving me the "maybe in the next round of apprentice setters" go around for the past 6-9 months now. (I still have some hope as they lost a huge number of setters due to covid and still are short 10+ setters, so maybe it'll happen but its not likely)
Having recently moved into a house in Snowdonia with the space to build a wall, i am wondering how you went about constructing yours? I would like to build one to the same standard!
Having a training facility at home has clearly been an important method of overcoming british weather and living in remote places!
Hi Dave, any advice for setting on a smaller home-wall setup? I am building an 8x10 40 degree wall with a small kickboard for context on ‘smaller’
Do it!
Hey Dave! I‘ll also need (want) new holds for my homewall.. any recomodations for 40°? What‘s the name of that Lapis line that you used? Greetings from Luxembourg ❤
Crimps, Edges and Goodys. Recommendations - go round commercial gyms, spot holds you like and note them down.
@@climbermacleod Thank you! Simple, yet I never thought about that.. 😂
I've often had in the back of my mind an idea that down climbing (as part of a circuit) is either not beneficial to the adaptions you're looking for are even potentially harmful (but I've only got a vague memory of where this idea came from). Do you think there's any merit to this? Should we be keeping the downclimbing to mainly jugs, or can it also be an intensive section within a circuit for more power endurance type fitness?
Is it possible to set one that’s possible clockwise and counterclockwise.?
How would you Go about setting a Power endurance circuit for boulderers on a Spraywall to build capacity for those rare whole days Out bouldering. I basically work full time seldom get a Long Session, but want to prepare for a Weekend away and be able to boulder at a reasonable Level for more than 2 hours on a Trip. ( Which would you recommend Power endurance, Number of moves ? I.e What would be your Focus be ?) or rather train 4x4's or volume Session 10/15 boulders at flash grade in a kilterboard or Something Like that...or both 1week Volume 1week Power endurance....
Not sure if you need to split up your weeks in a binary fashion. You can do power endurance and volume at the same time by climbing easier flash boulders, then some hard ones, then some easy ones again. A bit of both lower and higher intensity of climbing is needed for both power endurance and capacity. No need for long sessions to have capacity - I used to do 45 min sessions when my daughter was napping as a baby. Was really fit at that time!
When I train endurance, I find it difficult to climb statically and strictly, because I climb fast and dynamic when I'm trying to send projects.
I'm curious about your thoughts on efficiency and level of effort in your sequence between 16:17 -- 16:25...
What I see: From a drop-kneed and RH undercut position, you walk your feet back to the left, and then make a dynamic foot cutting move out right, and then match... What if instead of walking your feet out left, you immediately went out right. It would be a more "off center" movement, but you would save 2 foot moves and an entire 180 degree swing. I'd love for you to try this and tell me what you think in terms of difficulty, efficiency, etc!!!
I think it's all about the direction of force. If he did as you suggested, his feet would swing out much more, thus making the cut much harder to control. So even with more foot moves, he is doing the easier version.
I'd never be able to keep my foot on those small footholds in my trainers on an overhanging wall lol
Maybe a setting collab with Nikken from Erik Karlsons channel?
Would you say that setting with a grade "goal" is better, or to just work hard moves for you and not worry about a grade so much? I know its just a board, but nice to have it in mind right?
If the grades were in any way consistent, maybe. But I'm so bad at indoor climbing that the grades would just be depressing! I have basic strength markers which I can use to see if my training is working - motivating both if it's working, and if it's not.
@@climbermacleod Yes I agree, one persons 7A could be anothers 6B, its the biggest issue haha! Anyways interesting take think I will just do the latter and work the stuff I think is best at the time. Thanks Dave!
how do you get into route setting
How big is that 45° wall?
With that voice and that chest hair… I’d watch you read the phone book 😍
Out of curiosity, how much did these holds cost?
Hi Dave, im a long time fan, and your climbing philosophy really resonates with me. I have a question about setting problems on a spray wall. I am and beginner/intermediate climber and I tended to avoid spray wall up to relatively recently. I think I have quite a good selection of moves and technics, I think I can even take pride in how quickly I can sometimes figure out beta on a climb or brake beta altogether with unorthodox technic. But when it comes down to setting problems on a spray wall I feel like I lack variety. I struggle to set anything more than a few basic moves. That being said I am very new at setting and never tried it before and I'm almost always alone in the gym, certainly on a spray wall. Can you maybe make another video with you setting and taking us through the process, eg what you focus on, what should we avoid while setting and maybe like general tips and tricks? That would be most appreciated, thanks!
Something useful that you can do is make replicas or take inspiration from climbs outdoors that you have tried or seen. It’s a good way to make some really fun climbs.
can i get any of your books as audiobooks?
I am almost finished my next book and will be recording as an audiobook.
@@climbermacleod awesome, looking forward to listening to it!
the fact that you never full crimp, even on those tiny holds it's incredible..
Most of those holds are not the right shape for crimping.
true. the very small one looked maybe possible. do you ever full crimp when training on the wall? @@climbermacleod
@@noiseforthealgorithm4668 Yes definitely full crimp sometimes. Much more outside though.
nice. have a good day Dave, I love your content!@@climbermacleod
I didn’t read the comments, is there a reason you don’t build a moon board or other type of system board?
A bouldering wall is just as good for training.
why do you not fly anymore?
Carbon.
E12
Curious, why don't you fly anymore? Is it the environmental impact? Love your content. I have a nice spray wall myself. Not as big as yours, but I feel like it's pretty solid.
Yes. You can't decarbonise it and it's not necessary. I just can't really justify it.
@@climbermacleod looks like you have lots of fun close to home anyway.
11:27 dab
Why don’t you fly anymore?
Carbon.
Why do you not fly?
Carbon.
@@climbermacleod Fair dues
Why don't you fly anymore, please?
Carbon.
LOL you have been reading UKC you 'troll'
Great work
why don't you fly anymore??
Carbon.
oh wow. that's some real commitment...especially as a climber@@climbermacleod
Why don't you fly anymore?
Carbon.