Repeating Neil's E11 Lexicon
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- Опубликовано: 13 июн 2022
- In 2006 I climbed the first trad route in the world to get the grade of E11. Fifteen years later, Neil Gresham made the first ascent of Lexicon in the Lake District, grading E11. I wondered if I could still climb this huge grade.
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That Steve Mclure fall is simply crazy
E9+ climbers kinda scare me
E6 climbers scare me! 😅
Absolute giant
Yes of course a follow up would be great! Did you think anyone wouldn't want that!
Great climbing as well!
I'd love to see a video on climbing harder and improving as an 'older' climber. At 42 I'd resigned myself to pottering in the beginner grades forever. Any tips on how to change that mindset and not limiting goals would be great.
It helps to be a pro climber for 20+ years before you turn 40. But there are plenty of examples of people who started climbing in their 30s and send super super hard. Nothing different than any other age, don't get hurt, constantly push yourself and try to improve, do this for years and years.
Agreed with below, but I'll add that I began climbing at age 37. I'm 42 now. I was stuck at v5 for years, eventually broke thru, and can compete v7 indoors. I rarely missed a week, so I think that helped me most. Finger board and Dave's videos also helped :)
Climb 3 times a week gym 3 times a week perfect diet and you’ll be smashing it
I smoked for 30 years and started climbing the month I quit. That was a year and a half ago and I'll be 45 this year.
The body is much harder to retrain when you do a crazy strenuous sport like climbing later in life. It was extremely hard for me since I smoked for so long and had to rebuild a beat down cardiovascular system.. I needed a lot of days in-between climbing to let my body heal.
Eventually when your body starts to bend and adapt you can start going harder, 3 times a week with finger board training on the side. For me that took almost a year.
I am now around a V9/5.12 climbing lvl but it took alot of physical and mental pain to get there, you just gotta want it!
Good luck with your journey!
@@setadoon if you're sending v9, you should be sport climbing around 14a, not 12a.
Wow Dave, congrats on your second(?) E11! I'm always excited to hear the details of your training, especially as a climber only a few years younger than you.
I just can't stop repeatedly watching that last move to the slot. We can't see what your left hand is on, but based on the position of your left hand, that handhold isn't good. The left foot looks like the foothold is angled in a way that's only useful to start the move, but not to finish it--you actually cut the left foot partway through and then did a bit of "pogo" with the left foot. The result is that this is actually a pretty dynamic move from a pretty precarious position. To pull THAT move, with THAT fall potential, is utterly incredible to me.
watching your index ping off that slot was a heart-in-the-mouth moment! What an effort to get back on that hold. Fantastic stuff Dave!
Honestly, I'm not even a climber, but I got this recommended to me. Still very inspiring. This makes me want to get back into guitar after 5 years
Amazing vidéo that realy shows the dificulty of trad!
And you are a huge inspiration!
Definitly would be intrested about the mental aspect as you proposed at the end
Well done Dave. As ever, you're an inspiration.
Dave, your willingness to share your knowledge and experience, and the effort you put in to assemble these videos, are utterly commendable. Thank you and congrats on the send
Damn that was awesome ! My hands were so sweaty...
I for one would definitely love to see more training and tactics content.
Enjoyed that, thanks Dave
52yo late convert to trad climbing and would be delighted if you could talk more about the psychological training involved, as well as those "modifiable behaviours" you mentioned. I would love to work towards my potential best, but find myself holding back. Excellent video, btw. A story well told.
please, absolutely into the video about the fine grain process of physical and psychological preparation. Thanks for the good work you put into this channel, it's precious
Would definitely love to see a follow up. The climbing and training advice are what brought me to the channel, but the incredible landscape shots always keep me coming back.
Whew.... crazy. Great video Dave!
Jesus I've been fucking waiting for this one!!! Not even watched yet and I'm psyched beyond belief !!!
I must confess I was so in the moment when watching you on lead that I actually gave a yell when I saw the right index finger pop from the slot hold 😱 very inspiring seeing you climb this and fighting in that moment 🤩
Lovely bit of filmmaking as well as some cracking climbing, great work Dave 🙌
You make hands down the best UK focused trad climbing content going. Awesome video Dave, very impressive ascent.
Such a good video, one of your best IMO. Your effort at the end is inspiring. Big props to you, Neil, and Steve on the route!
Awesome. Going looking for that follow up vid: hope you found time to make it 😊
Congrats Dave! Another absolutely incredible video, looking forward to what comes next.
Strong work, Dave! Inspirational.
would love another video on this climb. well done mate!
Nice one, super impressive as always. I always enjoy your discussions on tactics, etc.
This video is inspirational on so many levels Dave!
This was a truly fantastic film, Dave! Well done!
What a triumph, thanks for sharing Dave. Always happy when you release a new video.
More Tactics Dave! Thanks for the treat. My finger tips are now soaked in sweat and I'm psyched to get on my project!
Impeccable climbing, filming and editing. Well done on the climb!
This was amazing! Great production too. I’d definitely love to watch any updates on the process!
Incredible, Dave! What a cool way to show your preparation and planning on this.
Another amazing video! Great send!
What a fantastic video paired with an even more fantastic climb. Great work, as always.
Amazing Dave, great to see the process on such a scary climb!
Beatiful video! Loved all the shots of the surroundings. Amazing climb!
Well done, Dave! Really enjoyed the project progression and that was such a nice send
Absolutely brilliant. Super informative and well thought out, as always. With the addition of having me absolutely gripped at the end. Nice!
What a fantastic film. I'm amazed that you have the capacity to prepare for such a hard climb whilst shooting such excellent footage. Cheers.
That is very impressive! I like this format when you talk about the whole way to get to a certain point and what it had taken to get there. So cool to see how you analyse almost everything, also analysis from the past. You are so inspiring! Thank you so much for the videos you make.
Great ascent! Would be class to get into the nitty gritty of the work behind your ascent 👌🏽
Excellent!!!! I really love how you explain the whole process. thank you so much for sharing it
Once again a huge inspiration Dave, congrats 🎉
Fantastic video Dave, one of your best! Really appreciate you sharing your thoughts and breaking down how you approach these climbs.
Cracking climb and fantastic video! Would love to see more on your tactics 💪
So pleasantly terrified :) I love how Dave explains the process. It is really helpful for any kind of goal a climber might have.
Amazing and thank you for making videos like this.
Way to go Dave! Loved the video and your insights. Climb on!
Great stuff as always Dave! You inspire me every time. Looking forward to continuing to improve like you, Neil, & Steve have even once I hit my 40s and 50s. It's just one of the many reasons I love this sport. You don't need to be limited by age to thrive.
Great climb David, very inspiring! As a climber who started a bit later in life (mid 20s indoor, late 20s outdoor) your words at the end really struck home as someone who feels like they started climbing too late to attain leads on harder grades. Just goes to show its all about the effort you give and keeping a young and energetic attitude towards life instead of looking at the age and the stereotype of losing vitality as you get older.
I wish I started in my 20's. Started at 32, now 36. Sent one 13+ and working towards my first 14a. Never too late and diet is everything.
I love that you give us the full story in your videos! It makes the send in the end much more exciting to watch.
Grand wee film Dave...well done!
Great to see you still pushing hard!!!! Sweet ascent!!!!!!!!
Absolute favorite climber. Love me some Dave Mac videos!!
Great send and video!
Brilliant, Dave! Great as usual. Yes, more videos on the detailed tactics, please!
What a legend. Thank you for your videos!
Brilliant, Dave!
I would love to see a second video going into more detail on the preparation! Awesome video!
Incredible! I love seeing the strategy, it makes this both more inspirational and useful than the average climbing video!
Another superb humble video. Great bastion for the sport and the outdoors.
Insane send.. holy jeez! Great video!
Wow, good 👍 one Dave! Love your videos, they inspire me to climb harder!
Epic and inspiring, thanks Dave.
Dave, we'll all be psyched to watch a video going into more details on the prep and psychology behind the send. As always, super inspirational!
Very intresting as always !
Very inspiring!
Beautiful cinematography, super inspiring, and downright enjoyable to watch. That is a ballsy send for sure!
Wow, great story Dave. Thanks for breaking down the journey and method you used to accomplish this route.
Great film! thanks for sharing.
You are such an inspiration to improving the mind game. Great video!
Amazing video Dave!!
Another great video. Well done Dave
13:11 That shake is familiar to me. I don't like it when it happens, but it's part of the mental game of this sport. Nevermind the fact that it happens to me on a French 6b sport climb, not on a monstrosity like this, but the feeling probably hinders the climber in the same way, no matter the grade. Props for pushing through it like a trooper. Conquering fear is real bravery, not the lack of it.
Yes! I’d love to see a follow up. Your tactics are always incredibly well thought out and planned. I would love to get a further peak into your madness!
Such a great watch!
Loved the shots of the Lakes Dave, and splitting slate. Nice touch.
That’s such an intense view of the lead go, can’t imagine what it really felt like but I think a lot of the intensity of controlling the fear and executing under such high duress comes through to the camera, way to go Dave!
great climb. your mental and physical tactics are great to hear.
Great video! Thanks for documenting this process. It was interesting to hear about your thoughts and doubts while you were climbing. Yes. Another video with more details on tactics would be welcome.
Absolutely excellent video Dave. Thank you. Looked a little touch and go going for the slot...
Great video Dave, would love that extra video about specific tactics you used!
Stellar video as always!
Thank you once again! I've been checking your channel in waiting for a new video so it's great to have you back. Would love to see that video on the nitty gritty you mention at the end. Hope you and your family are well
You are an inspiration to everyone, your mental and physical ability to climb things like this is almost impossible to fathom. Incredibly strong and what an amazing climb, well done!!
I really appreciate this video. I'm watching during a time that I am working a much safer 5.12b with excellent gear. Still the similarities of process are there. Hearing how you approach and deal with these climbs is incredibly helpful as there aren't many climbers in my area that are interested in even 5.11 trad. I would absolutely love a more granular dissection of your approach!
I am still trying to push my climbing at 43, and you have always been a source of inspiration and information. Thank you for making such relatable content. It helps tremendously when I can actually see my own struggles reflected in the struggles faced by much stronger climbers.
Super rad, high quality as always thanks for the vid
Congratulations Dave 👍🏻Your videos are a great motivational tonic to help shake off the COVID era malaise. Excellent cinematography and content as always! My family and I are returning to the UK from the tropics for the first time in three years - the excitement at the prospect of some fantastic climbing in beautiful and temperate English and Scottish surrounds is hard to articulate after so long away from home.
Great job Dave on as a brutal route. I’m a little older than you and sharing your frustration with tennis elbow. I’ve been following your tips and getting stronger too, thanks for sharing, and continuing to be an inspiration
Huge congrats!!! You are such an inspiration Dave, just turned 44 a month ago and my climbing is getting better than ever and mostly because of advices I picked up from your videos, nutrition being key, of course. Thanks for the inspiration Dave!💪💪
Another quality video Dave!
Great video as always Dave.
very intresting! as always, you are a big inspiration!
great stuff Dave! Had my palms sweating as you reached for that pocket on the go-try
Very Nice video, Dave. Yes would definitely appreciate a video with further details on preparation for this ascent. Thanks
Well deserved Dave! I think that for being a good climber you should climb difficulties that are near to your mental and physical strength. Your climbing intelligence is really inspiring. In that you truly are one of the best to ever do it. Much respect.
Amazing climber! Always fun climbing videos to enjoy watching and a real motivator! Also a testament to what a cool climber can do despite all the opposing factors he faces. (E.g the elbow, the crazy potential fall, etc etc)
I am constantly reminded that I'm a soft, weak, lazy degenerate every time I watch your videos. THANK YOU for the reminder and motivation. Keep it up!
As granular as you like, go for it! 👍
What a great video! More like a documentary really, very interesting, thanks for sharing all the process and for your work!
Cheers from Britanny :D