This might sound stupid but one thing I learnt from playing Bloodborne and Dark Souls is to stick with a problem about 2-3 attempts past the point where you no longer believe you’re improving on a move. At that point you should move on. Make sure you’re giving it your all and focused on improving (no matter how small of a gain). I found that a day or 2 later when I got back on to play I was able to beat the boss with ease.
Yep your brain also needs some time to process what you've learned. Most of my breakthrough sends have been after one session of working the problem to death, resting 2 days, then coming back and finishing the climb in around 2 to 3 goes.
Not many people understand how applicable some of these games are to sports. I remember spending maybe a week attempting demon of hatred in sekiro, hundreds of attempts, same with inner isshin. It's like you said, sometimes even when the technical execution breakthroughs have been made, the skill that was developed requires marination before you can execute under stress. Dealing with what seems like an insurmountable problem is a skill-and learning that skill with games while you are physically recovering from intense training is certainly an asset.
Nice, I love inventing arbitrary rules like no cutting loose. I also have a measuring stick - that is my warmup routine with Tindeq Progressor. That means I still have a chance 😅
Habit #2 seems like an extremely helpful tool once you've hit a plateau. Just do what you can do and once you feel you mastered your level, challenge yourself by looking for fun ways to enhance climbs/ training sessions. One I love personally is only grabbing a hold if you were able to touch it with one of your feet, it's great for endurance and body positioning.
Oooh, seem to be pretty well set on all of these. Shame I'm still mediocre.. ;) Tindeq finger warm-up and check in at the end has been great to choose the intensity of a session for sure (and/or manage expectations for a session.) Another habit I'm sure is pretty common is 'not program hopping' Sticking to a plan for enough time to get its longer term benefits. Something I've finally started to get my hear round again this year.
Fr. Recently I was climbing really well and had a good diet I was constantly monitoring. Then I got depressed and stopped eating well. Was basically starving myself and barley eating for a month. Went back to climbing and got injury after injury. Proper nutrition keeps the joints strong
Unfortunately this can be somewhat of a contentious topic There are definitely some pros that obviously restrict their calories very heavily In my non expert opinion this may acutely increase performance (for some) but decrease your long term potential and definitely harms your health if taken to an extreme (ie eating disorders)
What is the evidence that supports your ascertion that an adult can only learn one thing per session but a teenager can do more? People have started climbing as adults and made a lot of progress through the grades which would require learning quickly. Is this theoretical based on neuroplasticity? Or is this an artefact of time to train and life distractions? Surely experience of frustration and the ability to focus weigh more in the adults favour? Thank god people stop learning very quickly just as they move into their working lives - really takes the pressure off;-)
I think he's probably speaking more from experience and explaining it with neuroplasticity. He did not say that adults can only learn one thing per session, just that adults should not use the described approach more than once per session. Hope that makes sense.
This might sound stupid but one thing I learnt from playing Bloodborne and Dark Souls is to stick with a problem about 2-3 attempts past the point where you no longer believe you’re improving on a move. At that point you should move on. Make sure you’re giving it your all and focused on improving (no matter how small of a gain). I found that a day or 2 later when I got back on to play I was able to beat the boss with ease.
I did that and sent my first V5.
Nice, a fellow climber who loves soulsborne.
What I've learnt from Souls is not to move on 😅
Yep your brain also needs some time to process what you've learned. Most of my breakthrough sends have been after one session of working the problem to death, resting 2 days, then coming back and finishing the climb in around 2 to 3 goes.
Not many people understand how applicable some of these games are to sports. I remember spending maybe a week attempting demon of hatred in sekiro, hundreds of attempts, same with inner isshin. It's like you said, sometimes even when the technical execution breakthroughs have been made, the skill that was developed requires marination before you can execute under stress. Dealing with what seems like an insurmountable problem is a skill-and learning that skill with games while you are physically recovering from intense training is certainly an asset.
you have helped me understand, thank you
what i love about #2 is also how playful it can make training to keep the mind engaged for trying hard!
Nice, I love inventing arbitrary rules like no cutting loose.
I also have a measuring stick - that is my warmup routine with Tindeq Progressor.
That means I still have a chance 😅
3 sends to tick a training problem seems like an awesome idea! I'll definitely be implementing this one since I often feel like my send was "luck"
Thanks. Good advice
Habit #2 seems like an extremely helpful tool once you've hit a plateau. Just do what you can do and once you feel you mastered your level, challenge yourself by looking for fun ways to enhance climbs/ training sessions. One I love personally is only grabbing a hold if you were able to touch it with one of your feet, it's great for endurance and body positioning.
Oooh, seem to be pretty well set on all of these. Shame I'm still mediocre.. ;) Tindeq finger warm-up and check in at the end has been great to choose the intensity of a session for sure (and/or manage expectations for a session.) Another habit I'm sure is pretty common is 'not program hopping' Sticking to a plan for enough time to get its longer term benefits. Something I've finally started to get my hear round again this year.
Can you give more examples of arbitrary rules? And how often do you recommend applying them? (ie when working in technique, strength, always, etc?)
one habit every pro climber does is eat probably
Fr. Recently I was climbing really well and had a good diet I was constantly monitoring.
Then I got depressed and stopped eating well. Was basically starving myself and barley eating for a month. Went back to climbing and got injury after injury.
Proper nutrition keeps the joints strong
Unfortunately this can be somewhat of a contentious topic
There are definitely some pros that obviously restrict their calories very heavily
In my non expert opinion this may acutely increase performance (for some) but decrease your long term potential and definitely harms your health if taken to an extreme (ie eating disorders)
I bet they poop too
Think this is super important. 1g protein per lb of bodyweight and enough calories to sustain 4+ hour workouts
It's something we usually refer to as: basic human needs
I need to find my weakness, I seem to be pretty well rounded…..? It’s hard to tell though. I’ve all but maxed out my gym
First comment 😊 thanks for this video.
What is the evidence that supports your ascertion that an adult can only learn one thing per session but a teenager can do more?
People have started climbing as adults and made a lot of progress through the grades which would require learning quickly. Is this theoretical based on neuroplasticity? Or is this an artefact of time to train and life distractions? Surely experience of frustration and the ability to focus weigh more in the adults favour?
Thank god people stop learning very quickly just as they move into their working lives - really takes the pressure off;-)
I think he's probably speaking more from experience and explaining it with neuroplasticity. He did not say that adults can only learn one thing per session, just that adults should not use the described approach more than once per session. Hope that makes sense.
you don't do a habit you have a habit