I agree with the need to apply large area masks to avoid overspray. I have been modifying/building a 1/24 Kinetic P-47D Razorback that will represent the restored airplane, AirCorps Aviation has recently finished in the markings of Major Bill Dunham's, 'Bonnie' 342nd FS, 348th FG. The black recognition stripes on high polished aluminum is tricky to do and has to have lots of masking for layout and coverage to get the job done. Thanks, Mike for another great tutorial.
This is the best Monogram Flying Fortress I have seen in progress for a long time. And I absolutely love the fact you are not engraving it... Nobody does Monograms to this level anymore, and especially without the mania of carving lines into it, which more than likely only looks good for cameras. This is also the best 1/48 WWII kit of the 1970s in my opinion, and it is still unsurpassed for this subject and scale because the recent HK has made a plethora of ridiculous errors. Great work, and I will definitely follow.
@@scalemodeling My thought exactly. Raised lines also apply to a few other types (C-47 also I think), but not all, and not to the access panels of course. B-26 Marauders and B-29s were all but joints, as were all the fighters.
Mike, you sure use a lot of masking tape, I have always used blue-tack for marking demarcation, I will trying it using liberal masking tape. Your model has very very sharp & crisp demarcation! Thanks for sharing your tips. Never thought of using a punch & die set for curved windows! Cannot wait for next part in this series.
Nice results with your whole roll of tape method, but I think anyone who has mastered their airbrush really wouldn't need all that tape. But if you are showing beginners then it is probably a good idea.
I agree with the need to apply large area masks to avoid overspray. I have been modifying/building a 1/24 Kinetic P-47D Razorback that will represent the restored airplane, AirCorps Aviation has recently finished in the markings of Major Bill Dunham's, 'Bonnie' 342nd FS, 348th FG. The black recognition stripes on high polished aluminum is tricky to do and has to have lots of masking for layout and coverage to get the job done. Thanks, Mike for another great tutorial.
This is the best Monogram Flying Fortress I have seen in progress for a long time. And I absolutely love the fact you are not engraving it... Nobody does Monograms to this level anymore, and especially without the mania of carving lines into it, which more than likely only looks good for cameras. This is also the best 1/48 WWII kit of the 1970s in my opinion, and it is still unsurpassed for this subject and scale because the recent HK has made a plethora of ridiculous errors. Great work, and I will definitely follow.
The fort had lap joints which are best represented with petite raised panel lines
@@scalemodeling My thought exactly. Raised lines also apply to a few other types (C-47 also I think), but not all, and not to the access panels of course. B-26 Marauders and B-29s were all but joints, as were all the fighters.
Mike, you sure use a lot of masking tape, I have always used blue-tack for marking demarcation, I will trying it using liberal masking tape. Your model has very very sharp & crisp demarcation! Thanks for sharing your tips. Never thought of using a punch & die set for curved windows! Cannot wait for next part in this series.
impressive !
thanks
......мастерская работа!...
.....ооооочень аккуратноооо.....
Nice results with your whole roll of tape method, but I think anyone who has mastered their airbrush really wouldn't need all that tape. But if you are showing beginners then it is probably a good idea.
Mike , i appreciate your masking talents, but i wish you showed how you airbrush the model as well,
i will be doing an airbrush demonstration during my next project-monograms C-47